Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:18 AM - Re: smoke system (Reuven Silberman)
2. 10:18 AM - Re: Cowl Ideas? (David Leonard)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: smoke system |
All,
-
Im doin my own smoke system and have designed a 6 gal fiberglass tank that
fits right behind the right-seat (with minimal loss of baggage area)-fo
r a 7A.- All the pumps I have seen are huge. Has anyone tried the Facet f
uel pump (the one with the AN fittings)?-And what is everyone using for t
he electrionic shutoff?
Reuven Silberman
N7WT- KSEE
Pilots2@yahoo.com
-
--
--- On Thu, 8/6/09, wgill10@comcast.net <wgill10@comcast.net> wrote:
From: wgill10@comcast.net <wgill10@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: smoke system
#yiv979971372 p {margin:0;}
Tim,
-
Do you have a P/N for the tank? I could not find one like the one in your p
hoto. Thanks in advance for your reply.
-
Bill
RV-7 N151WP
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Timothy E. Cone" <tcone1@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 8:58:14 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: RV-List: smoke system
Matte,
Go to Northerntool.com and pick a tank.- I picked one that fits nicely in
the drop down section of the forward baggage compartment...they had one tha
t
dropped right in.- 3.5 gals.
The pump is just an ordinary ag pump...check online.
Here are a couple of pics,- http://picasaweb.google.com/tconerv8/SmokeSys
tem#
Thanks for the compliment on the 37 ship.- My homebrewed smoke was lookin
g
just fine as Delta 3 and I was the only smoker in that file.
Tim
do not archive
Timothy E. Cone
tcone1@comcast.net
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Message 2
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Jerry,
I found out the hard way that the trick to making the hinges work (for me)
is to make the centerline of the hinge ABOVE the center of the crack between
halves. In other words, with the lower cowl mounted the hinge is proud,
with the fiberglass edge being flush with notches in the the hinge. On the
upper half, the fiberglass extends down over the entire hinge to mate with
the lower fiberglass after the cowl is in place. You only have to do this
on ONE side. That side then becomes the second side to join when installing
the cowl. You have to sort of peel it into place and the hinges come
together with the upper hinge approaching from the side instead of the top.
To retrofit, I had to trim down the fiberglass on the lower cowl with a
drummel, then build it up on the upper cowl with flox. May have been easier
to remove hinge, fill holes, then install new hinge.
I like the hinges, but lots of people switch to fasteners and that seems to
work fine. Takes a little longer to remove and repalce the cowl and adds
at least 5 kts worth of drag ;-)
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
On Fri, Aug 7, 2009 at 6:12 PM, J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com> wrote:
> I've got 80 hrs on my RV7A - and I've come to Hate my cowl.
>
> I followed the plans and put hinge fasteners on the firewall and where the
> top/bottom clam halfs meet. The firewall hinges are fine. But the top/bottom
> clam halves hinges just aren't cutting the mustard. Getting the clam halfs
> to mate seems to require a large unsightly seam - so the top/bottom hinge
> teeth can move in/out as necessary to insert the pin. The hinge teeth seem
> to bend off-center at the slightest bump. When I try to bend them back into
> line, the hinge material fatigues. I'm also worried that the hinges pins
> will vibrate and chafe the paint if I get the seam "tight" enough to look
> good. (Thank goodness I'm still waiting on the paint shop and can change the
> design).
>
> Anyone out there redesigned the top/bottom clam half fastening design with
> different fasteners - and happy with the result? (Pictures would be helpful)
>
> Thanks,
> "Jerry"
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
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