Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:16 AM - Re: brake drag (gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com)
2. 07:07 AM - Re: Re: brake drag (Linn Walters)
3. 09:00 AM - Jump Starting? (J Riffel)
4. 09:24 AM - Re: Jump Starting? (thomas sargent)
5. 09:39 AM - Re: Jump Starting? (Jerry Springer)
6. 09:40 AM - Re: Jump Starting? (Carlos Hernandez)
7. 09:51 AM - Re: Re: brake drag (Kelly McMullen)
8. 10:10 AM - Re: Re: brake drag (Linn Walters)
9. 10:24 AM - Re: Jump Starting? (Linn Walters)
10. 10:57 AM - Re: Jump Starting? (mr.gsun@gmail.com)
11. 10:57 AM - Re: Jump Starting? (David E. Nelson)
12. 01:22 PM - Re: Jump Starting? (Paul Bowmar)
13. 02:07 PM - Re: Jump Starting? (John Morgensen)
14. 02:10 PM - Re: Re: brake drag (Kelly McMullen)
15. 02:46 PM - Re: Jump Starting? (Paul Besing)
16. 03:03 PM - Re: Re: brake drag (Linn Walters)
17. 03:11 PM - Re: Re: brake drag (Kelly McMullen)
18. 04:19 PM - Re: Jump Starting? (Larry Bowen)
19. 06:43 PM - Re: Torque Wrench Extensions (Valovich, Paul)
20. 09:56 PM - Re: Torque Wrench Extensions (Brian Meyette)
Message 1
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Service the Brakes,
-
Replace the Break Pads***
Clean and lube moving parts (brake pad plates-pins removed corrosion)**
(be careful keep lube off of disk and-pads clean)
Bleed carefully with help bottom up top down
Might as well replace bearings
Might as well rotate tires*
-
* (Remove-tire from rims, re-install on opposite rim balance)
-
** (Consider an overhaul of caliper disassemble, inspect, new O-ring, corro
sion in the piston bore can cause breaks to stick, moisture can get into th
e cylinder on the outer side of the O-ring and cause corrosion.)
-
*** When the pads get worn, even look like they have life this will cause b
rakes to stick. The caliper piston has to extend further and it can get coc
ked ever so slightly, since so little is engaged with in-the caliper body
.. This causes it to stick extended, even lock.
-
Inspect Inspect Inspect, clean, service, remove and replace anything that i
s not perfect.
-
That should solve your problems
-
Cheers George=0A=0A=0A
Message 2
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gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
> Service the Brakes,
>
>
>
> Replace the Break Pads***
>
> Clean and lube moving parts (brake pad plates pins removed corrosion)**
Not sure what this meant .... but do not lube the pins. They're
designed to work dry. Almost any lube will attract dirt and really gum
up the works.
Linn
>
> (be careful keep lube off of disk and pads clean)
>
> Bleed carefully with help bottom up top down
>
> Might as well replace bearings
>
> Might as well rotate tires*
>
>
>
> * (Remove tire from rims, re-install on opposite rim balance)
>
>
>
> ** (Consider an overhaul of caliper disassemble, inspect, new O-ring,
> corrosion in the piston bore can cause breaks to stick, moisture can get
> into the cylinder on the outer side of the O-ring and cause corrosion.)
>
>
>
> *** When the pads get worn, even look like they have life this will
> cause brakes to stick. The caliper piston has to extend further and it
> can get cocked ever so slightly, since so little is engaged with in the
> caliper body. This causes it to stick extended, even lock.
>
>
>
> Inspect Inspect Inspect, clean, service, remove and replace anything
> that is not perfect.
>
>
>
> That should solve your problems
>
>
>
> Cheers George
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 3
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Now, I would NEVER forget to turn the master off and drain the battery down
on my RV7A. I have a shutdown checklist and I even leave the strobes on so
I'll know the master is on as I walk away. However this past weekend some
gremlin did that to me while I was on a trip. :) The standard design doesn't
allow you to jump start a RV7. The cowl must be removed to get to the
battery. And putting the cowl back on while the engine is running is more
than just a little tricky :) Luckily I was at an airport with a staffed FBO
and a battery charger so I could solve the problem (I even carry enough
tools to remove the cowl and battery).
But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have designed a
solution to a dead battery at small airport that may have limited/no support
(like places I will probably fly into). I think I have 4 options:
1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen)
2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables
3) Install a "standard" external power plug
4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative jumper can
be attached to exhaust/other ground)
Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could just carry
a battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till the battery will
crank the engine ... unless the battery won't take a charge.
Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only occasional
(hopefully) use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look.
Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what "standard"
connectors are probably available at a small airport (Cessna, Piper,
'universal' or auto jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little pricey and
it'll "clutter up" the look.
Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts cost could
be low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is mounted. The
jumpers need to be disconnected safely while the engine is running and cowl
is installed. It needs to be protected (somehow) against accidental shorting
while working near it. And I wouldn't want to have to disconnect the
terminal every time I removed the cowl. It also shouldn't clutter up things
or be prone to be covered in engine oil.
Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help.
"Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Jump Starting? |
I put my battery where the old old (1999) RV-6A plans say to put it - in the
cabin up against the firewall. Things are too crowded under the cowl
anyway. Keeps it cooler and closer to the C.G. too. I never thought about
it, but it also makes the thing accessible for a jump start.
On Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 8:58 AM, J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com> wrote:
> Now, I would NEVER forget to turn the master off and drain the battery down
> on my RV7A. I have a shutdown checklist and I even leave the strobes on so
> I'll know the master is on as I walk away. However this past weekend some
> gremlin did that to me while I was on a trip. :)
>
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Jump Starting? |
If you don't have electronic ignition there is always hand prop to
start.
Do not Archive
Jerry Springer
Sent from my IPhone
On Aug 18, 2009, at 8:58 AM, J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com> wrote:
> Now, I would NEVER forget to turn the master off and drain the
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Jump Starting? |
Hey Jerry,
I'm building a -7 also and I'm planning on Option #3. Take a look here
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/airsec/Aircraft/Tools/BatteryService.html
You can place an external AN 2552-3A Oval Power Receptacle (ASOC 4621B)
in a several locations of your choosing and carry a Plug and Jump (CA
311807) with you in the flight bag or on the ship somewhere. If your
need a jump somewhere take out the plug and play and use regular jumper
cables from anyone. Plug it in the installed receptacle, attach, jump,
unplug and on your way without ever removing any part of your airplane.
That's my idea anyways.
Carlos in Arizona
J Riffel wrote:
> Now, I would NEVER forget to turn the master off and drain the battery
> down on my RV7A. I have a shutdown checklist and I even leave the
> strobes on so I'll know the master is on as I walk away. However this
> past weekend some gremlin did that to me while I was on a trip. :) The
> standard design doesn't allow you to jump start a RV7. The cowl must
> be removed to get to the battery. And putting the cowl back on while
> the engine is running is more than just a little tricky :) Luckily I
> was at an airport with a staffed FBO and a battery charger so I could
> solve the problem (I even carry enough tools to remove the cowl and
> battery).
>
> But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have designed
> a solution to a dead battery at small airport that may have limited/no
> support (like places I will probably fly into). I think I have 4 options:
> 1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen)
> 2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables
> 3) Install a "standard" external power plug
> 4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative
> jumper can be attached to exhaust/other ground)
>
> Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could just
> carry a battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till the
> battery will crank the engine ... unless the battery won't take a charge.
>
> Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only
> occasional (hopefully) use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look.
>
> Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what "standard"
> connectors are probably available at a small airport (Cessna, Piper,
> 'universal' or auto jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little pricey
> and it'll "clutter up" the look.
>
> Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts cost
> could be low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is
> mounted. The jumpers need to be disconnected safely while the engine
> is running and cowl is installed. It needs to be protected (somehow)
> against accidental shorting while working near it. And I wouldn't want
> to have to disconnect the terminal every time I removed the cowl. It
> also shouldn't clutter up things or be prone to be covered in engine oil.
>
> Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help.
>
> "Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs
> *
>
>
> *
--
Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Structural Engineers Company
2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
Chandler, AZ 85224
Phone: 480.968.8600
Fax: 480.968.8608
www.sec-engr.com
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Message 7
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Not true. Caliper pins should be lubed with silicone grease intended for
disk brakes. Dry they will wear.
Linn Walters wrote:
>
> gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
>> Service the Brakes,
>>
>>
>>
>> Replace the Break Pads***
>>
>> Clean and lube moving parts (brake pad plates pins removed corrosion)**
> Not sure what this meant .... but do not lube the pins. They're
> designed to work dry. Almost any lube will attract dirt and really gum
> up the works.
> Linn
Message 8
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Could you point me to the instructions that say to do that???
Linn
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Not true. Caliper pins should be lubed with silicone grease intended for
> disk brakes. Dry they will wear.
>
> Linn Walters wrote:
>>
>> gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
>>> Service the Brakes,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Replace the Break Pads***
>>>
>>> Clean and lube moving parts (brake pad plates pins removed corrosion)**
>> Not sure what this meant .... but do not lube the pins. They're
>> designed to work dry. Almost any lube will attract dirt and really
>> gum up the works.
>> Linn
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Jump Starting? |
J Riffel wrote:
SNIP
> But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have designed a
> solution to a dead battery at small airport that may have limited/no
> support (like places I will probably fly into). I think I have 4 options:
> 1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen)
It just did
> 2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables
That would be a large access door.
> 3) Install a "standard" external power plug
As someone else suggested, either the Cessna or Piper auz power plugs
will work .... and you can put them inside the cabin where you can
disconnect them after starting.
> 4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative jumper
> can be attached to exhaust/other ground)
Is there room in the oil door to mount a stud connected to the 12V
starter solenoid???
>
> Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could just
> carry a battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till the
> battery will crank the engine ... unless the battery won't take a charge.
You also have to get access to electricity for the charger .... and one
that will do the job takes up a lot of room.
>
> Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only
> occasional (hopefully) use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look.
Agreed.
>
> Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what "standard"
> connectors are probably available at a small airport (Cessna, Piper,
> 'universal' or auto jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little pricey
> and it'll "clutter up" the look.
The standard C & P plugs are pretty much everywhere .... and the
suggestion to carry a pigtail to connect jumper cables to is a good one.
>
> Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts cost
> could be low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is
> mounted. The jumpers need to be disconnected safely while the engine is
> running and cowl is installed. It needs to be protected (somehow)
> against accidental shorting while working near it. And I wouldn't want
> to have to disconnect the terminal every time I removed the cowl. It
> also shouldn't clutter up things or be prone to be covered in engine oil.
If the connection is mounted inside the cowl instead of through it
alleviates one concern .... but creates the other: It's 'hot' when the
master is turned on for normal operation. The Piper Traumahawk <GR> has
it's aux connecter through the fuselage aft of the wing, and plugging
power there activates a separate solenoid to apply power the the bus. A
lot of extra weight, if you ask me.
>
> Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help.
You might look for quick-connects at a welding supply place .... used
for connecting welding cables to the welder.
I'm building a -10 and my emergency power will be mounted in the aft
baggage bulkhead .... accessible through the baggage door.
Linn
>
> "Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Jump Starting? |
I had the similar occurance happen a couple times with the master left on
(it can happen) and running the battery low failing a successful hot start
with my fuel injected engine.
I've mostly solved the above two problems but came up with a good solution,
I think. I have a small trickle charger that I connect occasionally to the
airplane via the included black rubber clad connector that I reach and
connect thru the oil filler door. It has a little ATC type fuse near the
battery terminal.
What I did was fabricate a jumper cable with a mating plug, 8' of 12 gauge
wire and some small insulated alligator clips, color coded red/black. Then
I figured I never wanted more than 10 amps going thru the jumper setup so I
got a 10 amp self resetting circuit breaker that goes into the ATC fuse. It
is sized to protect all the wires involved. The trickle charger only puts
out a couple amps.
This way, I can charge up from any airport charger, car, friends truck, lawn
tractor or even the little solar panel I sometimes carry. I figure that by
the time I could get the cowl off, the battery could be charged up enough to
turn over the engine just by what I can get thru the jumper wire setup.
Works for me....
Do not Archive
On Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 10:23 AM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>wrote:
>
> J Riffel wrote:
>
> SNIP
>
> But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have designed a
>> solution to a dead battery at small airport that may have limited/no support
>> (like places I will probably fly into). I think I have 4 options:
>> 1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen)
>>
> It just did
>
>> 2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables
>>
> That would be a large access door.
>
>> 3) Install a "standard" external power plug
>>
> As someone else suggested, either the Cessna or Piper auz power plugs will
> work .... and you can put them inside the cabin where you can disconnect
> them after starting.
>
>> 4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative jumper
>> can be attached to exhaust/other ground)
>>
> Is there room in the oil door to mount a stud connected to the 12V starter
> solenoid???
>
>> Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could just
>> carry a battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till the battery
>> will crank the engine ... unless the battery won't take a charge.
>>
> You also have to get access to electricity for the charger .... and one
> that will do the job takes up a lot of room.
>
> Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only occasional
>> (hopefully) use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look.
>>
> Agreed.
>
>> Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what "standard"
>> connectors are probably available at a small airport (Cessna, Piper,
>> 'universal' or auto jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little pricey and
>> it'll "clutter up" the look.
>>
> The standard C & P plugs are pretty much everywhere .... and the suggestion
> to carry a pigtail to connect jumper cables to is a good one.
>
> Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts cost
>> could be low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is mounted.
>> The jumpers need to be disconnected safely while the engine is running and
>> cowl is installed. It needs to be protected (somehow) against accidental
>> shorting while working near it. And I wouldn't want to have to disconnect
>> the terminal every time I removed the cowl. It also shouldn't clutter up
>> things or be prone to be covered in engine oil.
>>
> If the connection is mounted inside the cowl instead of through it
> alleviates one concern .... but creates the other: It's 'hot' when the
> master is turned on for normal operation. The Piper Traumahawk <GR> has
> it's aux connecter through the fuselage aft of the wing, and plugging power
> there activates a separate solenoid to apply power the the bus. A lot of
> extra weight, if you ask me.
>
>> Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help.
>>
> You might look for quick-connects at a welding supply place .... used for
> connecting welding cables to the welder.
>
> I'm building a -10 and my emergency power will be mounted in the aft
> baggage bulkhead .... accessible through the baggage door.
> Linn
>
> "Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs
>>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Jump Starting? |
What about something like a cigarette lighter jumper cable? Something like
this:
http://www.amazon.com/Wagan-9796-Quick-Jumper-Jumpstarter/dp/B00005OWK2
It's fairly light and small and very portable.
I'm having problems finding any specifics on the current limits of this device
so that the cigarette lighter circuit could be properly designed. The one
downside that I see is a battery so dead that the master can't be energized, but
that can be easily gotten around.
Piper Tomarock! ;)
/\/elson
~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any spring. ~~
On Tue, 18 Aug 2009, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> J Riffel wrote:
>
> SNIP
>
>> But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have designed a
>> solution to a dead battery at small airport that may have limited/no
>> support (like places I will probably fly into). I think I have 4 options:
>> 1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen)
> It just did
>> 2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables
> That would be a large access door.
>> 3) Install a "standard" external power plug
> As someone else suggested, either the Cessna or Piper auz power plugs will
> work .... and you can put them inside the cabin where you can disconnect them
> after starting.
>> 4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative jumper
>> can be attached to exhaust/other ground)
> Is there room in the oil door to mount a stud connected to the 12V starter
> solenoid???
>> Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could just
>> carry a battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till the
>> battery will crank the engine ... unless the battery won't take a charge.
> You also have to get access to electricity for the charger .... and one that
> will do the job takes up a lot of room.
>
>> Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only occasional
>> (hopefully) use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look.
> Agreed.
>> Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what "standard"
>> connectors are probably available at a small airport (Cessna, Piper,
>> 'universal' or auto jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little pricey and
>> it'll "clutter up" the look.
> The standard C & P plugs are pretty much everywhere .... and the suggestion
> to carry a pigtail to connect jumper cables to is a good one.
>
>> Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts cost
>> could be low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is mounted.
>> The jumpers need to be disconnected safely while the engine is running and
>> cowl is installed. It needs to be protected (somehow) against accidental
>> shorting while working near it. And I wouldn't want to have to disconnect
>> the terminal every time I removed the cowl. It also shouldn't clutter up
>> things or be prone to be covered in engine oil.
> If the connection is mounted inside the cowl instead of through it alleviates
> one concern .... but creates the other: It's 'hot' when the master is turned
> on for normal operation. The Piper Traumahawk <GR> has it's aux connecter
> through the fuselage aft of the wing, and plugging power there activates a
> separate solenoid to apply power the the bus. A lot of extra weight, if you
> ask me.
>> Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help.
> You might look for quick-connects at a welding supply place .... used for
> connecting welding cables to the welder.
>
> I'm building a -10 and my emergency power will be mounted in the aft baggage
> bulkhead .... accessible through the baggage door.
> Linn
>
>> "Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Jump Starting? |
Or what about a "Battery Tender" like we use on our mototcycles. You
can get them at Amazon or E-bay.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=battery++tender&tag=googh
ydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=2337211121&ref=pd_sl_2sc3ptjn_e
Two wires are attached to the battery with a small plug on the other
end. Run the plug up near the oil door. You can open the oil door and
plug in for maitainer charge or charge when run down.
Paul
67KB RV-4
----- Original Message -----
From: mr.gsun@gmail.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Jump Starting?
I had the similar occurance happen a couple times with the master left
on (it can happen) and running the battery low failing a successful hot
start with my fuel injected engine.
I've mostly solved the above two problems but came up with a good
solution, I think. I have a small trickle charger that I connect
occasionally to the airplane via the included black rubber clad
connector that I reach and connect thru the oil filler door. It has a
little ATC type fuse near the battery terminal.
What I did was fabricate a jumper cable with a mating plug, 8' of 12
gauge wire and some small insulated alligator clips, color coded
red/black. Then I figured I never wanted more than 10 amps going thru
the jumper setup so I got a 10 amp self resetting circuit breaker that
goes into the ATC fuse. It is sized to protect all the wires involved.
The trickle charger only puts out a couple amps.
This way, I can charge up from any airport charger, car, friends
truck, lawn tractor or even the little solar panel I sometimes carry. I
figure that by the time I could get the cowl off, the battery could be
charged up enough to turn over the engine just by what I can get thru
the jumper wire setup.
Works for me....
Do not Archive
On Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 10:23 AM, Linn Walters
<pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
<pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
J Riffel wrote:
SNIP
But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have
designed a solution to a dead battery at small airport that may have
limited/no support (like places I will probably fly into). I think I
have 4 options:
1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen)
It just did
2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables
That would be a large access door.
3) Install a "standard" external power plug
As someone else suggested, either the Cessna or Piper auz power
plugs will work .... and you can put them inside the cabin where you can
disconnect them after starting.
4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative
jumper can be attached to exhaust/other ground)
Is there room in the oil door to mount a stud connected to the 12V
starter solenoid???
Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could
just carry a battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till
the battery will crank the engine ... unless the battery won't take a
charge.
You also have to get access to electricity for the charger .... and
one that will do the job takes up a lot of room.
Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only
occasional (hopefully) use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look.
Agreed.
Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what
"standard" connectors are probably available at a small airport (Cessna,
Piper, 'universal' or auto jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little
pricey and it'll "clutter up" the look.
The standard C & P plugs are pretty much everywhere .... and the
suggestion to carry a pigtail to connect jumper cables to is a good one.
Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts
cost could be low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is
mounted. The jumpers need to be disconnected safely while the engine is
running and cowl is installed. It needs to be protected (somehow)
against accidental shorting while working near it. And I wouldn't want
to have to disconnect the terminal every time I removed the cowl. It
also shouldn't clutter up things or be prone to be covered in engine
oil.
If the connection is mounted inside the cowl instead of through it
alleviates one concern .... but creates the other: It's 'hot' when the
master is turned on for normal operation. The Piper Traumahawk <GR> has
it's aux connecter through the fuselage aft of the wing, and plugging
power there activates a separate solenoid to apply power the the bus. A
lot of extra weight, if you ask me.
Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help.
You might look for quick-connects at a welding supply place ....
used for connecting welding cables to the welder.
I'm building a -10 and my emergency power will be mounted in the aft
baggage bulkhead .... accessible through the baggage door.
Linn
"Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs
==========
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
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="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Jump Starting? |
fyi - Aeroelectric "Bob" has done some extensive testing on battery
maintainers and the best turns out to be the 1.5 Schumacher available at
any Walmart < $20.
John Morgensen
N600BH RV4
N847X Grumman AA1B - 150 (For Sale)
RV9A - Wiring
Paul Bowmar wrote:
> Or what about a "Battery Tender" like we use on our mototcycles. You
> can get them at Amazon or E-bay.
> http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=battery++tender&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=2337211121&ref=pd_sl_2sc3ptjn_e
> <http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=battery++tender&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=2337211121&ref=pd_sl_2sc3ptjn_e>
>
> Two wires are attached to the battery with a small plug on the other
> end. Run the plug up near the oil door. You can open the oil door
> and plug in for maitainer charge or charge when run down.
>
> Paul
> 67KB RV-4
>
Message 14
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http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/building/landing/1Your%20Brake%20Installation.html?
Is one location. Look near the bottom of the article regarding anchor pins.
Linn Walters wrote:
>
> Could you point me to the instructions that say to do that???
> Linn
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> Not true. Caliper pins should be lubed with silicone grease intended
>> for disk brakes. Dry they will wear.
>>
>> Linn Walters wrote:
>>>
>>> gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>> Service the Brakes,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Replace the Break Pads***
>>>>
>>>> Clean and lube moving parts (brake pad plates pins removed corrosion)**
>>> Not sure what this meant .... but do not lube the pins. They're
>>> designed to work dry. Almost any lube will attract dirt and really
>>> gum up the works.
>>> Linn
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Jump Starting? |
Option #4 is the simplest in my opinion. Just put a lug on the firewall side that
you can access through cut out in the bottom of the cowl. Just be sure it
is not close to the firewall (isolate with rubber grommets) so that you don't
risk touching anything to ground. Cover with a rubber boot to keep anything from
shorting out in flight.
In an RV a dead battery is pain if you don't have those provisions. Ask me how
I know :-)..especially when your radio stack is mounted to the battery box on
an RV-4!
Paul Besing
________________________________
From: J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 8:58:19 AM
Subject: RV-List: Jump Starting?
Now, I would NEVER forget to turn the master off and drain the battery down on
my RV7A. I have a shutdown checklist and I even leave the strobes on so I'll know
the master is on as I walk away. However this past weekend some gremlin did
that to me while I was on a trip. :) The standard design doesn't allow you
to jump start a RV7. The cowl must be removed to get to the battery. And putting
the cowl back on while the engine is running is more than just a little tricky
:) Luckily I was at an airport with a staffed FBO and a battery charger so
I could solve the problem (I even carry enough tools to remove the cowl and battery).
But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have designed a solution
to a dead battery at small airport that may have limited/no support (like places
I will probably fly into). I think I have 4 options:
1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen)
2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables
3) Install a "standard" external power plug
4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative jumper can be
attached to exhaust/other ground)
Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could just carry a
battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till the battery will crank
the engine ... unless the battery won't take a charge.
Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only occasional (hopefully)
use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look.
Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what "standard" connectors
are probably available at a small airport (Cessna, Piper, 'universal' or auto
jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little pricey and it'll "clutter up" the
look.
Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts cost could be
low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is mounted. The jumpers
need to be disconnected safely while the engine is running and cowl is installed.
It needs to be protected (somehow) against accidental shorting while working
near it. And I wouldn't want to have to disconnect the terminal every time
I removed the cowl. It also shouldn't clutter up things or be prone to be covered
in engine oil.
Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help.
"Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs
Message 16
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OK, I can accept that. For most of us 'lube' means grease. The
important word is 'dry', and here is what they said:
Keep the anchor bolts free of rust and lubricate them with a dry
lubricant spray like G. E. Silicone or graphite. Don't use your old
favorite WD-40, or any kind of wet grease as they will only attract dirt
and compound the wear.
I was taught to clean any dirt, rust etc, and reassemble dry. Never
seen any pins assembled that way 'wear out' except where something else
failed.
Linn
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/building/landing/1Your%20Brake%20Installation.html?
>
> Is one location. Look near the bottom of the article regarding anchor pins.
>
> Linn Walters wrote:
>>
>> Could you point me to the instructions that say to do that???
>> Linn
>>
>> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>
>>> Not true. Caliper pins should be lubed with silicone grease intended
>>> for disk brakes. Dry they will wear.
>>>
>>> Linn Walters wrote:
>>>>
>>>> gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>>> Service the Brakes,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Replace the Break Pads***
>>>>>
>>>>> Clean and lube moving parts (brake pad plates pins removed
>>>>> corrosion)**
>>>> Not sure what this meant .... but do not lube the pins. They're
>>>> designed to work dry. Almost any lube will attract dirt and really
>>>> gum up the works.
>>>> Linn
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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All the higher time brakes I inspect show wear, which comes from
combination of rust and lack of lube. While silicone spray will work,
IMHO it is inadequate to last from one annual to the next. A grease like
DC-4 or other silicone grease accomplishes the same thing, with much
more staying power and will reduce chance of rust.
Your modern cars all use floating calipers, just like your standard
Cleveland calipers, and they all specify the same silicone grease, and
often supply it with replacement pads or hardware kits. If the anchor
pins are dry, they will get mud from splash drying on them and that will
promote both rust and wear. Spray silicone does little to protect
against that. Graphite is not good around aluminum and magnesium.
But, you are experimental, and you can experiment all you want.
Linn Walters wrote:
>
>
> OK, I can accept that. For most of us 'lube' means grease. The
> important word is 'dry', and here is what they said:
> Keep the anchor bolts free of rust and lubricate them with a dry
> lubricant spray like G. E. Silicone or graphite. Don't use your old
> favorite WD-40, or any kind of wet grease as they will only attract dirt
> and compound the wear.
>
> I was taught to clean any dirt, rust etc, and reassemble dry. Never
> seen any pins assembled that way 'wear out' except where something else
> failed.
> Linn
>
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/building/landing/1Your%20Brake%20Installation.html?
>>
>> Is one location. Look near the bottom of the article regarding anchor
>> pins.
>>
>> Linn Walters wrote:
>>>
>>> Could you point me to the instructions that say to do that???
>>> Linn
>>>
>>> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Not true. Caliper pins should be lubed with silicone grease intended
>>>> for disk brakes. Dry they will wear.
>>>>
>>>> Linn Walters wrote:
>>>>> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>>>>
>>>>> gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>>>> Service the Brakes,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Replace the Break Pads***
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Clean and lube moving parts (brake pad plates pins removed
>>>>>> corrosion)**
>>>>> Not sure what this meant .... but do not lube the pins. They're
>>>>> designed to work dry. Almost any lube will attract dirt and really
>>>>> gum up the works.
>>>>> Linn
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Jump Starting? |
Yes, this has worked well for me. Though I've never tried it on a
completely flat battery.
On 8/18/09, Paul Bowmar <paul@bwbco.com> wrote:
> Or what about a "Battery Tender" like we use on our mototcycles. You can
> get them at Amazon or E-bay.
> http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=battery++tender&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=2337211121&ref=pd_sl_2sc3ptjn_e
>
> Two wires are attached to the battery with a small plug on the other end.
> Run the plug up near the oil door. You can open the oil door and plug in
> for maitainer charge or charge when run down.
>
> Paul
> 67KB RV-4
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: mr.gsun@gmail.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 11:55 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Jump Starting?
>
>
> I had the similar occurance happen a couple times with the master left on
> (it can happen) and running the battery low failing a successful hot start
> with my fuel injected engine.
>
> I've mostly solved the above two problems but came up with a good
> solution, I think. I have a small trickle charger that I connect
> occasionally to the airplane via the included black rubber clad connector
> that I reach and connect thru the oil filler door. It has a little ATC
> type fuse near the battery terminal.
>
> What I did was fabricate a jumper cable with a mating plug, 8' of 12 gauge
> wire and some small insulated alligator clips, color coded red/black. Then
> I figured I never wanted more than 10 amps going thru the jumper setup so I
> got a 10 amp self resetting circuit breaker that goes into the ATC fuse. It
> is sized to protect all the wires involved. The trickle charger only puts
> out a couple amps.
>
> This way, I can charge up from any airport charger, car, friends truck,
> lawn tractor or even the little solar panel I sometimes carry. I figure
> that by the time I could get the cowl off, the battery could be charged up
> enough to turn over the engine just by what I can get thru the jumper wire
> setup.
>
> Works for me....
>
>
> Do not Archive
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 10:23 AM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> wrote:
>
>
> J Riffel wrote:
>
> SNIP
>
>
> But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have designed
> a solution to a dead battery at small airport that may have limited/no
> support (like places I will probably fly into). I think I have 4 options:
> 1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen)
>
> It just did
>
>
> 2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables
>
> That would be a large access door.
>
>
> 3) Install a "standard" external power plug
>
> As someone else suggested, either the Cessna or Piper auz power plugs
> will work .... and you can put them inside the cabin where you can
> disconnect them after starting.
>
>
> 4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative
> jumper can be attached to exhaust/other ground)
>
> Is there room in the oil door to mount a stud connected to the 12V
> starter solenoid???
>
>
> Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could
> just carry a battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till the
> battery will crank the engine ... unless the battery won't take a charge.
>
> You also have to get access to electricity for the charger .... and one
> that will do the job takes up a lot of room.
>
>
> Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only
> occasional (hopefully) use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look.
>
> Agreed.
>
>
> Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what "standard"
> connectors are probably available at a small airport (Cessna, Piper,
> 'universal' or auto jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little pricey and
> it'll "clutter up" the look.
>
> The standard C & P plugs are pretty much everywhere .... and the
> suggestion to carry a pigtail to connect jumper cables to is a good one.
>
>
> Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts cost
> could be low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is mounted.
> The jumpers need to be disconnected safely while the engine is running and
> cowl is installed. It needs to be protected (somehow) against accidental
> shorting while working near it. And I wouldn't want to have to disconnect
> the terminal every time I removed the cowl. It also shouldn't clutter up
> things or be prone to be covered in engine oil.
>
> If the connection is mounted inside the cowl instead of through it
> alleviates one concern .... but creates the other: It's 'hot' when the
> master is turned on for normal operation. The Piper Traumahawk <GR> has
> it's aux connecter through the fuselage aft of the wing, and plugging power
> there activates a separate solenoid to apply power the the bus. A lot of
> extra weight, if you ask me.
>
>
> Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help.
>
> You might look for quick-connects at a welding supply place .... used
> for connecting welding cables to the welder.
>
> I'm building a -10 and my emergency power will be mounted in the aft
> baggage bulkhead .... accessible through the baggage door.
> Linn
>
>
> "Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs
>
>
> ==========
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
--
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrench Extensions |
Matt,
I fiddled with the special tool problem for a long time and finally said th
e hell with it and bought one from Avery. One of those expensive tools that
proved indispensible for the five minutes or so it took me to torque the p
rop bolts. If you can get to Inyokern (IYK) I'll lend it to you; if you ema
il me your home address I'll mail it to you.
Paul Valovich
pvalovich@dcscorp.com<mailto:pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
RV-8A N192NM Reserved (again)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Torque Wrench Extensions |
I'm curious - what was the special tool from Avery? Do you have an Avery
part number? I'd like to see what it looks like. I just torqued my MT
prop bolts and used a simple 3/8" SD crowfoot on the torque wrench.
brian
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Torque Wrench Extensions
Matt,
I fiddled with the special tool problem for a long time and finally said the
hell with it and bought one from Avery. One of those expensive tools that
proved indispensible for the five minutes or so it took me to torque the
prop bolts. If you can get to Inyokern (IYK) I'll lend it to you; if you
email me your home address I'll mail it to you.
Paul Valovich
pvalovich@dcscorp.com
RV-8A N192NM Reserved (again)
06:03:00
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