Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:43 AM - Re: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... (Richard Martin)
2. 08:22 AM - Re: Jump Starting? (Richard Martin)
3. 08:41 AM - Re: vm1000 (Richard Martin)
4. 08:56 AM - Re: Jump Starting? (Matt Dralle)
5. 09:48 AM - Re: Re: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... (J. Mcculley)
6. 08:23 PM - Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge (Ralph Finch)
7. 08:43 PM - Re: Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... |
Matt,
>From my experience RV8 1900 hrs, you will never need to use the low, low
setting.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 1:37 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws...
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I've got the control cable going to the Governor working well and the
> routing under the engine nicely aligned so that it doesn't touch the sump.
> I've got a question regarding the control throw limits, though. Right now
> at HIGH RPM, the control on the Governor is hitting the stop as it should.
> No problem there. However, on full LOW RPM, I'm about 1/8" away from
> hitting the stop on the Governor. I've fiddled around with the available
> adjustments 'til I'm blue in the face and I just can't get that last
> little bit of LOW. Given the angle of the bracket, its kind of a pull
> backwards for the pushrod so its just never really going to work with the
> current bracket. My question is this: Does it really matter? When what
> the last time anyone actually had full LOW RPM setting?
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Jump Starting? |
I experienced a similar problem years ago when I first finished my RV8.
I obtained a Piper aux power receptacle (it is the most compact size
and almost every FBO has an APU jump cable). I did use it once and it
saved the day. I installed it inside of the cabin in an out of the way
place that was accessable with the canopy open.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: J Riffel
To: rv-list
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 10:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Jump Starting?
Now, I would NEVER forget to turn the master off and drain the battery
down on my RV7A. I have a shutdown checklist and I even leave the
strobes on so I'll know the master is on as I walk away. However this
past weekend some gremlin did that to me while I was on a trip. :) The
standard design doesn't allow you to jump start a RV7. The cowl must be
removed to get to the battery. And putting the cowl back on while the
engine is running is more than just a little tricky :) Luckily I was at
an airport with a staffed FBO and a battery charger so I could solve the
problem (I even carry enough tools to remove the cowl and battery).
But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have designed
a solution to a dead battery at small airport that may have limited/no
support (like places I will probably fly into). I think I have 4
options:
1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen)
2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables
3) Install a "standard" external power plug
4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative
jumper can be attached to exhaust/other ground)
Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could just
carry a battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till the
battery will crank the engine ... unless the battery won't take a
charge.
Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only
occasional (hopefully) use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look.
Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what "standard"
connectors are probably available at a small airport (Cessna, Piper,
'universal' or auto jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little pricey
and it'll "clutter up" the look.
Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts cost
could be low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is
mounted. The jumpers need to be disconnected safely while the engine is
running and cowl is installed. It needs to be protected (somehow)
against accidental shorting while working near it. And I wouldn't want
to have to disconnect the terminal every time I removed the cowl. It
also shouldn't clutter up things or be prone to be covered in engine
oil.
Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help.
"Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs
Message 3
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I have 1900 hours on my RV8 over 9 years. I had to replace the battery
in my VM1000 after 1000 hours over 5-6 years. It is a simple job to
replace the battery and includes instructions to set tach time etc.
Dick Martin
RV 8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: N122RL@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 4:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: vm1000
Hello all. Has anyone changed the battery pack in the older vm1000?
The company wants $41.00 for the battery and instructions. Thank you in
advance.
Bob Lau
RV-6A
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Jump Starting? |
Hi Jerry,
I used the Cessna style plug on my RV-8 mounted in the back of the baggage area.
Works great and I've been using it as a GPU plug during the electrical/avionics
installation phase. Here are a couple links to my installation for reference:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=68984&row=48
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=70614&row=14
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=70615&row=13
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=73643&row=3
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=73644&row=2
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
FWF
At 08:58 AM 8/18/2009 Tuesday, you wrote:
>Now, I would NEVER forget to turn the master off and drain the battery down on
my RV7A. I have a shutdown checklist and I even leave the strobes on so I'll
know the master is on as I walk away. However this past weekend some gremlin
did that to me while I was on a trip. :) The standard design doesn't allow you
to jump start a RV7. The cowl must be removed to get to the battery. And putting
the cowl back on while the engine is running is more than just a little tricky
:) Luckily I was at an airport with a staffed FBO and a battery charger so
I could solve the problem (I even carry enough tools to remove the cowl and
battery).
>
>But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have designed a solution
to a dead battery at small airport that may have limited/no support (like
places I will probably fly into). I think I have 4 options:
>1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen)
>2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables
>3) Install a "standard" external power plug
>4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative jumper can be
attached to exhaust/other ground)
>
>Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could just carry a
battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till the battery will crank
the engine ... unless the battery won't take a charge.
>
>Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only occasional (hopefully)
use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look.
>
>Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what "standard" connectors
are probably available at a small airport (Cessna, Piper, 'universal' or auto
jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little pricey and it'll "clutter up" the
look.
>
>Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts cost could be
low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is mounted. The jumpers
need to be disconnected safely while the engine is running and cowl is installed.
It needs to be protected (somehow) against accidental shorting while working
near it. And I wouldn't want to have to disconnect the terminal every time
I removed the cowl. It also shouldn't clutter up things or be prone to be covered
in engine oil.
>
>Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help.
>
>"Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... |
Richard,
If you ever lose your engine, but it still windmills, pulling the prop
full aft will decrease your sink rate by several hundred feet per minute
and will extend your time and distance to where you will meet terra
firma. Could be a vital asset! I routinely practice dead stick landings
this way. Just something to consider adding to your procedures.
Jim McCulley
=======================================================================================
Richard Martin wrote:
>
> Matt,
>> From my experience RV8 1900 hrs, you will never need to use the low, low
> setting.
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233M
> the fast one
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <rv8-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 1:37 PM
> Subject: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws...
==========================================================================================
Message 6
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| Subject: | Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge |
I'm assembling an RV-9A QB. I have a question about the fiberglass wing
tip.
With wing in a cradle and the aileron bellcrank jig in place I put a
straight-edge to the designated holes on the end rib and adjusted the
aileron to proper alignment. Then I began fitting the wing tip. The
trailing edge of the tip is about 1/4" out of alignment with the aileron
trailing edge. Vans instructions say the two TEs should be aligned but no
guidance how to achieve that.
I was going to ignore the 1/4" misalignment, but on further research some
say that a tip misalignment will contribute to a wing heavy or light. Makes
sense, since the wing tip is 12" wide there and outboard of the aileron.
Some make it align by cutting through the tip TE, separating the top and
bottom somewhat to allow them to slide a bit so the tip will align with the
aileron. I'm reluctant to do that. And I got a brainstorm that maybe
careful heating of the wing tip aft, top and bottom, would allow the
fiberglass to "move" enough for the small adjustment.
So my questions are:
* Should a 1/4" aileron/tip trailing edge misalignment be fixed?
* If so, what's the preferred method? Would a careful heating work or is
this a fool's idea?
Thanks in Advance--
Ralph Finch
Davis, CA
Rv-9A QB SA
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge |
At 08:22 PM 8/20/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>So my questions are:
>
>* Should a 1/4" aileron/tip trailing edge misalignment be fixed?
IMHO, yes, that's too much. You will always regret not having properly dealt with
it.
>* If so, what's the preferred method? Would a careful heating work or is
>this a fool's idea?
Have you drilled the wing tip yet? If not, it is likely that you will be able
to pull that 1/4" out by simply sliding the wing tip around in the wing skin over
hang. However, if you haven't drilled yet, you might find that there is a
fair amount of droop in the fiberglass in the span from the spar to the tip that
will cause the trailing miss-alignment. You won't know for sure until its
drilled. That's what they call "catch-22".
Slicing the trailing edge with a 409 Dremel cutoff wheel is no big deal but remember
that you'll have to cut up the side about 12" to get enough play at the
trailing edge without inducing a twist. I've got some pictures on my builder's
log of how I did mine. They came out very nice, I think:
Four log entries:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2982&log=84213&row=34
>Thanks in Advance--
>Ralph Finch
>Davis, CA
>Rv-9A QB SA
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
FWF
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