RV-List Digest Archive

Fri 08/21/09


Total Messages Posted: 18



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:43 AM - Jump Starting (Joe McKervey)
     2. 06:46 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 08/20/09 Jump Start (Joe McKervey)
     3. 06:46 AM - Trimming the rudder stiffeners (Colm O'Reilly)
     4. 07:17 AM - Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners (Tim Randles)
     5. 07:19 AM - Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners (Xavier Marshall)
     6. 07:43 AM - Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners (John Bright)
     7. 08:13 AM - Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners (MLWynn@aol.com)
     8. 08:13 AM - Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners (Michael Kraus)
     9. 08:13 AM - Re: Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge (Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc.)
    10. 08:13 AM - Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners (Mike Robertson)
    11. 09:20 AM - Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners (Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc.)
    12. 10:33 AM - Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners (peter laurence)
    13. 02:08 PM - Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge (Lapsley R. and Sandra E. Caldwell)
    14. 06:17 PM - Re: Jump Starting? - Solution (J Riffel)
    15. 07:23 PM - Re: Jump Starting? - Solution (david cook)
    16. 07:47 PM - Re: Jump Starting? - Solution (Vanremog@aol.com)
    17. 08:17 PM - Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners (Colm O'Reilly)
    18. 08:43 PM - Re: Jump Starting? - Solution (Jerry Springer)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:43:37 AM PST US
    From: "Joe McKervey" <mckervey@charter.net>
    Subject: Jump Starting
    Try www.waytekwire.com Part#37702 ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV-List Digest Server" <rv-list@matronics.com> Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 1:58 AM Subject: RV-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 08/20/09 > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 09-08-20&Archive=RV > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 09-08-20&Archive=RV > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Thu 08/20/09: 7 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 07:43 AM - Re: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... (Richard > Martin) > 2. 08:22 AM - Re: Jump Starting? (Richard Martin) > 3. 08:41 AM - Re: vm1000 (Richard Martin) > 4. 08:56 AM - Re: Jump Starting? (Matt Dralle) > 5. 09:48 AM - Re: Re: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... (J. > Mcculley) > 6. 08:23 PM - Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge (Ralph > Finch) > 7. 08:43 PM - Re: Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge > (Matt Dralle) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 07:43:00 AM PST US > From: "Richard Martin" <martin@gbonline.com> > Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... > > > Matt, >>From my experience RV8 1900 hrs, you will never need to use the low, low > setting. > Dick Martin > RV8 N233M > the fast one > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com> > Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 1:37 PM > Subject: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... > > >> >> Dear Listers, >> >> I've got the control cable going to the Governor working well and the >> routing under the engine nicely aligned so that it doesn't touch the >> sump. >> I've got a question regarding the control throw limits, though. Right >> now >> at HIGH RPM, the control on the Governor is hitting the stop as it >> should. >> No problem there. However, on full LOW RPM, I'm about 1/8" away from >> hitting the stop on the Governor. I've fiddled around with the available >> adjustments 'til I'm blue in the face and I just can't get that last >> little bit of LOW. Given the angle of the bracket, its kind of a pull >> backwards for the pushrod so its just never really going to work with the >> current bracket. My question is this: Does it really matter? When what >> the last time anyone actually had full LOW RPM setting? >> >> Thoughts? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Matt Dralle >> RV-8 #82880 N998RV >> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle >> > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:22:52 AM PST US > From: "Richard Martin" <martin@gbonline.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Jump Starting? > > I experienced a similar problem years ago when I first finished my RV8. > I obtained a Piper aux power receptacle (it is the most compact size > and almost every FBO has an APU jump cable). I did use it once and it > saved the day. I installed it inside of the cabin in an out of the way > place that was accessable with the canopy open. > Dick Martin > RV8 N233 > the fast one > ----- Original Message ----- > From: J Riffel > To: rv-list > Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 10:58 AM > Subject: RV-List: Jump Starting? > > > Now, I would NEVER forget to turn the master off and drain the battery > down on my RV7A. I have a shutdown checklist and I even leave the > strobes on so I'll know the master is on as I walk away. However this > past weekend some gremlin did that to me while I was on a trip. :) The > standard design doesn't allow you to jump start a RV7. The cowl must be > removed to get to the battery. And putting the cowl back on while the > engine is running is more than just a little tricky :) Luckily I was at > an airport with a staffed FBO and a battery charger so I could solve the > problem (I even carry enough tools to remove the cowl and battery). > > But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have designed > a solution to a dead battery at small airport that may have limited/no > support (like places I will probably fly into). I think I have 4 > options: > 1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen) > 2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables > 3) Install a "standard" external power plug > 4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative > jumper can be attached to exhaust/other ground) > > Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could just > carry a battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till the > battery will crank the engine ... unless the battery won't take a > charge. > > Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only > occasional (hopefully) use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look. > > Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what "standard" > connectors are probably available at a small airport (Cessna, Piper, > 'universal' or auto jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little pricey > and it'll "clutter up" the look. > > Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts cost > could be low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is > mounted. The jumpers need to be disconnected safely while the engine is > running and cowl is installed. It needs to be protected (somehow) > against accidental shorting while working near it. And I wouldn't want > to have to disconnect the terminal every time I removed the cowl. It > also shouldn't clutter up things or be prone to be covered in engine > oil. > > Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help. > > "Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs > > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:41:23 AM PST US > From: "Richard Martin" <martin@gbonline.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: vm1000 > > I have 1900 hours on my RV8 over 9 years. I had to replace the battery > in my VM1000 after 1000 hours over 5-6 years. It is a simple job to > replace the battery and includes instructions to set tach time etc. > Dick Martin > RV 8 N233M > the fast one > ----- Original Message ----- > From: N122RL@aol.com > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 4:24 PM > Subject: RV-List: vm1000 > > > Hello all. Has anyone changed the battery pack in the older vm1000? > The company wants $41.00 for the battery and instructions. Thank you in > advance. > > Bob Lau > RV-6A > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > > ________________________________ Message 4 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:56:30 AM PST US > From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Jump Starting? > > > Hi Jerry, > > I used the Cessna style plug on my RV-8 mounted in the back of the baggage > area. > Works great and I've been using it as a GPU plug during the > electrical/avionics > installation phase. Here are a couple links to my installation for > reference: > > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=68984&row=48 > > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=70614&row=14 > > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=70615&row=13 > > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=73643&row=3 > > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=73644&row=2 > > Best regards, > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle > FWF > > > At 08:58 AM 8/18/2009 Tuesday, you wrote: >>Now, I would NEVER forget to turn the master off and drain the battery >>down on > my RV7A. I have a shutdown checklist and I even leave the strobes on so > I'll > know the master is on as I walk away. However this past weekend some > gremlin > did that to me while I was on a trip. :) The standard design doesn't allow > you > to jump start a RV7. The cowl must be removed to get to the battery. And > putting > the cowl back on while the engine is running is more than just a little > tricky > :) Luckily I was at an airport with a staffed FBO and a battery charger so > I could solve the problem (I even carry enough tools to remove the cowl > and > battery). >> >>But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have designed a >>solution > to a dead battery at small airport that may have limited/no support (like > places I will probably fly into). I think I have 4 options: >>1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen) >>2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables >>3) Install a "standard" external power plug >>4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative jumper >>can be > attached to exhaust/other ground) >> >>Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could just >>carry a > battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till the battery will > crank > the engine ... unless the battery won't take a charge. >> >>Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only occasional >>(hopefully) > use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look. >> >>Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what "standard" >>connectors > are probably available at a small airport (Cessna, Piper, 'universal' or > auto > jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little pricey and it'll "clutter up" > the > look. >> >>Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts cost >>could be > low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is mounted. The > jumpers > need to be disconnected safely while the engine is running and cowl is > installed. > It needs to be protected (somehow) against accidental shorting while > working > near it. And I wouldn't want to have to disconnect the terminal every time > I removed the cowl. It also shouldn't clutter up things or be prone to be > covered > in engine oil. >> >>Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help. >> >>"Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > > ________________________________ Message 5 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 09:48:46 AM PST US > From: "J. Mcculley" <mcculleyja@starpower.net> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... > > > Richard, > > If you ever lose your engine, but it still windmills, pulling the prop > full aft will decrease your sink rate by several hundred feet per minute > and will extend your time and distance to where you will meet terra > firma. Could be a vital asset! I routinely practice dead stick landings > this way. Just something to consider adding to your procedures. > > Jim McCulley > ====================================================================================== > > Richard Martin wrote: >> >> Matt, >>> From my experience RV8 1900 hrs, you will never need to use the low, low >> setting. >> Dick Martin >> RV8 N233M >> the fast one >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com> >> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <rv8-list@matronics.com> >> Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 1:37 PM >> Subject: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... > ========================================================================================= > > > ________________________________ Message 6 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:23:31 PM PST US > From: "Ralph Finch" <rgf@dcn.davis.ca.us> > Subject: RV-List: Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge > > > I'm assembling an RV-9A QB. I have a question about the fiberglass wing > tip. > > With wing in a cradle and the aileron bellcrank jig in place I put a > straight-edge to the designated holes on the end rib and adjusted the > aileron to proper alignment. Then I began fitting the wing tip. The > trailing edge of the tip is about 1/4" out of alignment with the aileron > trailing edge. Vans instructions say the two TEs should be aligned but no > guidance how to achieve that. > > I was going to ignore the 1/4" misalignment, but on further research some > say that a tip misalignment will contribute to a wing heavy or light. > Makes > sense, since the wing tip is 12" wide there and outboard of the aileron. > Some make it align by cutting through the tip TE, separating the top and > bottom somewhat to allow them to slide a bit so the tip will align with > the > aileron. I'm reluctant to do that. And I got a brainstorm that maybe > careful heating of the wing tip aft, top and bottom, would allow the > fiberglass to "move" enough for the small adjustment. > > So my questions are: > > * Should a 1/4" aileron/tip trailing edge misalignment be fixed? > * If so, what's the preferred method? Would a careful heating work or is > this a fool's idea? > > Thanks in Advance-- > Ralph Finch > Davis, CA > Rv-9A QB SA > > > ________________________________ Message 7 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:43:44 PM PST US > From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge > > At 08:22 PM 8/20/2009 Thursday, you wrote: >>So my questions are: >> >>* Should a 1/4" aileron/tip trailing edge misalignment be fixed? > > > IMHO, yes, that's too much. You will always regret not having properly > dealt with > it. > > >>* If so, what's the preferred method? Would a careful heating work or is >>this a fool's idea? > > > Have you drilled the wing tip yet? If not, it is likely that you will be > able > to pull that 1/4" out by simply sliding the wing tip around in the wing > skin over > hang. However, if you haven't drilled yet, you might find that there is a > fair amount of droop in the fiberglass in the span from the spar to the > tip that > will cause the trailing miss-alignment. You won't know for sure until its > drilled. That's what they call "catch-22". > > Slicing the trailing edge with a 409 Dremel cutoff wheel is no big deal > but remember > that you'll have to cut up the side about 12" to get enough play at the > trailing edge without inducing a twist. I've got some pictures on my > builder's > log of how I did mine. They came out very nice, I think: > > Four log entries: > > > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2982&log=84213&row=34 > > >>Thanks in Advance-- >>Ralph Finch >>Davis, CA >>Rv-9A QB SA > > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle > FWF > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:46:13 AM PST US
    From: "Joe McKervey" <mckervey@charter.net>
    Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 08/20/09 Jump Start
    ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV-List Digest Server" <rv-list@matronics.com> Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 1:58 AM Subject: RV-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 08/20/09 > *Try www.waytekwire.com Part#37702 > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 09-08-20&Archive=RV > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 09-08-20&Archive=RV > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Thu 08/20/09: 7 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 07:43 AM - Re: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... (Richard > Martin) > 2. 08:22 AM - Re: Jump Starting? (Richard Martin) > 3. 08:41 AM - Re: vm1000 (Richard Martin) > 4. 08:56 AM - Re: Jump Starting? (Matt Dralle) > 5. 09:48 AM - Re: Re: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... (J. > Mcculley) > 6. 08:23 PM - Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge (Ralph > Finch) > 7. 08:43 PM - Re: Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge > (Matt Dralle) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 07:43:00 AM PST US > From: "Richard Martin" <martin@gbonline.com> > Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... > > > Matt, >>From my experience RV8 1900 hrs, you will never need to use the low, low > setting. > Dick Martin > RV8 N233M > the fast one > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com> > Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 1:37 PM > Subject: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... > > >> >> Dear Listers, >> >> I've got the control cable going to the Governor working well and the >> routing under the engine nicely aligned so that it doesn't touch the >> sump. >> I've got a question regarding the control throw limits, though. Right >> now >> at HIGH RPM, the control on the Governor is hitting the stop as it >> should. >> No problem there. However, on full LOW RPM, I'm about 1/8" away from >> hitting the stop on the Governor. I've fiddled around with the available >> adjustments 'til I'm blue in the face and I just can't get that last >> little bit of LOW. Given the angle of the bracket, its kind of a pull >> backwards for the pushrod so its just never really going to work with the >> current bracket. My question is this: Does it really matter? When what >> the last time anyone actually had full LOW RPM setting? >> >> Thoughts? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Matt Dralle >> RV-8 #82880 N998RV >> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle >> > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:22:52 AM PST US > From: "Richard Martin" <martin@gbonline.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Jump Starting? > > I experienced a similar problem years ago when I first finished my RV8. > I obtained a Piper aux power receptacle (it is the most compact size > and almost every FBO has an APU jump cable). I did use it once and it > saved the day. I installed it inside of the cabin in an out of the way > place that was accessable with the canopy open. > Dick Martin > RV8 N233 > the fast one > ----- Original Message ----- > From: J Riffel > To: rv-list > Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 10:58 AM > Subject: RV-List: Jump Starting? > > > Now, I would NEVER forget to turn the master off and drain the battery > down on my RV7A. I have a shutdown checklist and I even leave the > strobes on so I'll know the master is on as I walk away. However this > past weekend some gremlin did that to me while I was on a trip. :) The > standard design doesn't allow you to jump start a RV7. The cowl must be > removed to get to the battery. And putting the cowl back on while the > engine is running is more than just a little tricky :) Luckily I was at > an airport with a staffed FBO and a battery charger so I could solve the > problem (I even carry enough tools to remove the cowl and battery). > > But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have designed > a solution to a dead battery at small airport that may have limited/no > support (like places I will probably fly into). I think I have 4 > options: > 1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen) > 2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables > 3) Install a "standard" external power plug > 4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative > jumper can be attached to exhaust/other ground) > > Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could just > carry a battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till the > battery will crank the engine ... unless the battery won't take a > charge. > > Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only > occasional (hopefully) use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look. > > Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what "standard" > connectors are probably available at a small airport (Cessna, Piper, > 'universal' or auto jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little pricey > and it'll "clutter up" the look. > > Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts cost > could be low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is > mounted. The jumpers need to be disconnected safely while the engine is > running and cowl is installed. It needs to be protected (somehow) > against accidental shorting while working near it. And I wouldn't want > to have to disconnect the terminal every time I removed the cowl. It > also shouldn't clutter up things or be prone to be covered in engine > oil. > > Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help. > > "Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs > > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:41:23 AM PST US > From: "Richard Martin" <martin@gbonline.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: vm1000 > > I have 1900 hours on my RV8 over 9 years. I had to replace the battery > in my VM1000 after 1000 hours over 5-6 years. It is a simple job to > replace the battery and includes instructions to set tach time etc. > Dick Martin > RV 8 N233M > the fast one > ----- Original Message ----- > From: N122RL@aol.com > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 4:24 PM > Subject: RV-List: vm1000 > > > Hello all. Has anyone changed the battery pack in the older vm1000? > The company wants $41.00 for the battery and instructions. Thank you in > advance. > > Bob Lau > RV-6A > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > > ________________________________ Message 4 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:56:30 AM PST US > From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Jump Starting? > > > Hi Jerry, > > I used the Cessna style plug on my RV-8 mounted in the back of the baggage > area. > Works great and I've been using it as a GPU plug during the > electrical/avionics > installation phase. Here are a couple links to my installation for > reference: > > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=68984&row=48 > > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=70614&row=14 > > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=70615&row=13 > > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=73643&row=3 > > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=3912&log=73644&row=2 > > Best regards, > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle > FWF > > > At 08:58 AM 8/18/2009 Tuesday, you wrote: >>Now, I would NEVER forget to turn the master off and drain the battery >>down on > my RV7A. I have a shutdown checklist and I even leave the strobes on so > I'll > know the master is on as I walk away. However this past weekend some > gremlin > did that to me while I was on a trip. :) The standard design doesn't allow > you > to jump start a RV7. The cowl must be removed to get to the battery. And > putting > the cowl back on while the engine is running is more than just a little > tricky > :) Luckily I was at an airport with a staffed FBO and a battery charger so > I could solve the problem (I even carry enough tools to remove the cowl > and > battery). >> >>But the event got me thinking. So I'm curious how others have designed a >>solution > to a dead battery at small airport that may have limited/no support (like > places I will probably fly into). I think I have 4 options: >>1) Do not design a solution (hoping the problem won't happen) >>2) Put an access door over the battery for jumper cables >>3) Install a "standard" external power plug >>4) Fabricate a connection for the positive jumper cable (negative jumper >>can be > attached to exhaust/other ground) >> >>Distractions happen, so option 1 isn't very good. I guess I could just >>carry a > battery charger as part of my std tool kit and wait till the battery will > crank > the engine ... unless the battery won't take a charge. >> >>Option 2 is a fair amount of work and some parts cost for only occasional >>(hopefully) > use - besides it seems to 'clutter up' the look. >> >>Option 3 could be good. But it begs the question of what "standard" >>connectors > are probably available at a small airport (Cessna, Piper, 'universal' or > auto > jumper cable). Parts cost could be a little pricey and it'll "clutter up" > the > look. >> >>Option 4 could be good. Normal auto jumpers would work and parts cost >>could be > low. But there are questions on how/where the terminal is mounted. The > jumpers > need to be disconnected safely while the engine is running and cowl is > installed. > It needs to be protected (somehow) against accidental shorting while > working > near it. And I wouldn't want to have to disconnect the terminal every time > I removed the cowl. It also shouldn't clutter up things or be prone to be > covered > in engine oil. >> >>Any great ideas/other solutions out there? A picture would help. >> >>"Jerry", RV7A, 90+ hrs > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > > ________________________________ Message 5 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 09:48:46 AM PST US > From: "J. Mcculley" <mcculleyja@starpower.net> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... > > > Richard, > > If you ever lose your engine, but it still windmills, pulling the prop > full aft will decrease your sink rate by several hundred feet per minute > and will extend your time and distance to where you will meet terra > firma. Could be a vital asset! I routinely practice dead stick landings > this way. Just something to consider adding to your procedures. > > Jim McCulley > ====================================================================================== > > Richard Martin wrote: >> >> Matt, >>> From my experience RV8 1900 hrs, you will never need to use the low, low >> setting. >> Dick Martin >> RV8 N233M >> the fast one >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com> >> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <rv8-list@matronics.com> >> Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 1:37 PM >> Subject: RV8-List: Governor Control Throws... > ========================================================================================= > > > ________________________________ Message 6 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:23:31 PM PST US > From: "Ralph Finch" <rgf@dcn.davis.ca.us> > Subject: RV-List: Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge > > > I'm assembling an RV-9A QB. I have a question about the fiberglass wing > tip. > > With wing in a cradle and the aileron bellcrank jig in place I put a > straight-edge to the designated holes on the end rib and adjusted the > aileron to proper alignment. Then I began fitting the wing tip. The > trailing edge of the tip is about 1/4" out of alignment with the aileron > trailing edge. Vans instructions say the two TEs should be aligned but no > guidance how to achieve that. > > I was going to ignore the 1/4" misalignment, but on further research some > say that a tip misalignment will contribute to a wing heavy or light. > Makes > sense, since the wing tip is 12" wide there and outboard of the aileron. > Some make it align by cutting through the tip TE, separating the top and > bottom somewhat to allow them to slide a bit so the tip will align with > the > aileron. I'm reluctant to do that. And I got a brainstorm that maybe > careful heating of the wing tip aft, top and bottom, would allow the > fiberglass to "move" enough for the small adjustment. > > So my questions are: > > * Should a 1/4" aileron/tip trailing edge misalignment be fixed? > * If so, what's the preferred method? Would a careful heating work or is > this a fool's idea? > > Thanks in Advance-- > Ralph Finch > Davis, CA > Rv-9A QB SA > > > ________________________________ Message 7 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:43:44 PM PST US > From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge > > At 08:22 PM 8/20/2009 Thursday, you wrote: >>So my questions are: >> >>* Should a 1/4" aileron/tip trailing edge misalignment be fixed? > > > IMHO, yes, that's too much. You will always regret not having properly > dealt with > it. > > >>* If so, what's the preferred method? Would a careful heating work or is >>this a fool's idea? > > > Have you drilled the wing tip yet? If not, it is likely that you will be > able > to pull that 1/4" out by simply sliding the wing tip around in the wing > skin over > hang. However, if you haven't drilled yet, you might find that there is a > fair amount of droop in the fiberglass in the span from the spar to the > tip that > will cause the trailing miss-alignment. You won't know for sure until its > drilled. That's what they call "catch-22". > > Slicing the trailing edge with a 409 Dremel cutoff wheel is no big deal > but remember > that you'll have to cut up the side about 12" to get enough play at the > trailing edge without inducing a twist. I've got some pictures on my > builder's > log of how I did mine. They came out very nice, I think: > > Four log entries: > > > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2982&log=84213&row=34 > > >>Thanks in Advance-- >>Ralph Finch >>Davis, CA >>Rv-9A QB SA > > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle > FWF > > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:46:14 AM PST US
    From: "Colm O'Reilly" <colm.oreilly@gmail.com>
    Subject: Trimming the rudder stiffeners
    I was trimming the rudder stiffeners with aviation snips last night, and it is fairly obvious to me now that that is not the right tool for the job. I thought of using the die grinder, but I don't want to heat the part too much. Thinking now of getting air nibblers which look inexpensive at about $100, another choice would be a bandsaw. Thoughts ? Thanks in advance. Colm http://oreillyrv8.blogspot.com/


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:17:29 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners
    From: Tim Randles <tim.randles@gmail.com>
    Wow, I just saw the bent and cracked stiffener on your blog. I didn't have any problems like that when I trimmed mine. They came out nice and straight. Make sure you're using the correct handedness snips for the direction you're cutting. Tim On Fri, Aug 21, 2009 at 9:31 AM, Colm O'Reilly <colm.oreilly@gmail.com>wrote: > > I was trimming the rudder stiffeners with aviation snips last night, and it > is fairly obvious to me now that that is not the right tool for the job. > > I thought of using the die grinder, but I don't want to heat the part too > much. > > Thinking now of getting air nibblers which look inexpensive at about $100, > another choice would be a bandsaw. > > Thoughts ? > > Thanks in advance. > Colm > > http://oreillyrv8.blogspot.com/ > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:19:59 AM PST US
    From: Xavier Marshall <Xavier.Marshall@vcaantech.com>
    Subject: Trimming the rudder stiffeners
    I too did the first one or two with snips. I switched to the band saw. Made quick work of it. Xavier (Resistance is Futile (if > 1-ohm) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Colm O'Reilly Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 6:31 AM Subject: RV-List: Trimming the rudder stiffeners I was trimming the rudder stiffeners with aviation snips last night, and it is fairly obvious to me now that that is not the right tool for the job. I thought of using the die grinder, but I don't want to heat the part too much. Thinking now of getting air nibblers which look inexpensive at about $100, another choice would be a bandsaw. Thoughts ? Thanks in advance. Colm http://oreillyrv8.blogspot.com/


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:43:11 AM PST US
    From: John Bright <john_s_bright@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners
    I would think snips would work well. Do you have left and right hand ones? Did you try trimming close to the finished line first and then a final trim to the line? Thanks, John Bright ----- Original Message ---- From: Colm O'Reilly <colm.oreilly@gmail.com> Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 9:31:30 AM Subject: RV-List: Trimming the rudder stiffeners I was trimming the rudder stiffeners with aviation snips last night, and it is fairly obvious to me now that that is not the right tool for the job. I thought of using the die grinder, but I don't want to heat the part too much. Thinking now of getting air nibblers which look inexpensive at about $100, another choice would be a bandsaw. Thoughts ? Thanks in advance. Colm http://oreillyrv8.blogspot.com/


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:13:25 AM PST US
    From: MLWynn@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners
    I ended up using a bandsaw. I made a little jig out of plywood, clamped down to the bandsaw table to get the angle correct. Then cut them all. There are more stiffeners in the elevators that will require the same treatment. I have never been able to get a very smooth cut with snips, but that could just be me. Regards, Michael Wynn RV 8 Canopy San Ramon, CA


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:13:38 AM PST US
    From: Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
    Subject: Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners
    Bandsaw, you'll use I a lot!! Sent from my iPhone On Aug 21, 2009, at 9:31 AM, "Colm O'Reilly" <colm.oreilly@gmail.com> wrote: > <colm.oreilly@gmail.com> > > I was trimming the rudder stiffeners with aviation snips last night, > and it is fairly obvious to me now that that is not the right tool > for the job. > > I thought of using the die grinder, but I don't want to heat the > part too much. > > Thinking now of getting air nibblers which look inexpensive at about > $100, another choice would be a bandsaw. > > Thoughts ? > > Thanks in advance. > Colm > > http://oreillyrv8.blogspot.com/ > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 08:13:38 AM PST US
    From: "Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc." <jfogarty@tds.net>
    Subject: Re: Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge
    Ralph, Do nothing until you set the wing incidence, with the wings on the fuselage it may look different. Meaning no drill, no screwing, etc. I made this mistake and my tips were off, I'm still trying to get them right. Just my two cents. Jim RV9a Building ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ralph Finch" <rgf@dcn.davis.ca.us> Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 10:22 PM Subject: RV-List: Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge > > I'm assembling an RV-9A QB. I have a question about the fiberglass wing > tip. > > With wing in a cradle and the aileron bellcrank jig in place I put a > straight-edge to the designated holes on the end rib and adjusted the > aileron to proper alignment. Then I began fitting the wing tip. The > trailing edge of the tip is about 1/4" out of alignment with the aileron > trailing edge. Vans instructions say the two TEs should be aligned but no > guidance how to achieve that. > > I was going to ignore the 1/4" misalignment, but on further research some > say that a tip misalignment will contribute to a wing heavy or light. > Makes > sense, since the wing tip is 12" wide there and outboard of the aileron. > Some make it align by cutting through the tip TE, separating the top and > bottom somewhat to allow them to slide a bit so the tip will align with > the > aileron. I'm reluctant to do that. And I got a brainstorm that maybe > careful heating of the wing tip aft, top and bottom, would allow the > fiberglass to "move" enough for the small adjustment. > > So my questions are: > > * Should a 1/4" aileron/tip trailing edge misalignment be fixed? > * If so, what's the preferred method? Would a careful heating work or is > this a fool's idea? > > Thanks in Advance-- > Ralph Finch > Davis, CA > Rv-9A QB SA > > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 08:13:48 AM PST US
    From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Trimming the rudder stiffeners
    I agree. Bandsaw followed by a sanding disk and the scotchbrite wheel. Mike Robertson > From: Xavier.Marshall@vcaantech.com > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Date: Fri=2C 21 Aug 2009 07:15:51 -0700 > Subject: RE: RV-List: Trimming the rudder stiffeners > .com> > > I too did the first one or two with snips. I switched to the band saw. Ma de quick work of it. > > Xavier > (Resistance is Futile (if > 1-ohm) > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@mat ronics.com] On Behalf Of Colm O'Reilly > Sent: Friday=2C August 21=2C 2009 6:31 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Trimming the rudder stiffeners > > > I was trimming the rudder stiffeners with aviation snips last night=2C > and it is fairly obvious to me now that that is not the right tool for > the job. > > I thought of using the die grinder=2C but I don't want to heat the part > too much. > > Thinking now of getting air nibblers which look inexpensive at about > $100=2C another choice would be a bandsaw. > > Thoughts ? > > Thanks in advance. > Colm > > http://oreillyrv8.blogspot.com/ > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ With Windows Live=2C you can organize=2C edit=2C and share your photos. http://www.windowslive.com/Desktop/PhotoGallery


    Message 11


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    Time: 09:20:11 AM PST US
    From: "Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc." <jfogarty@tds.net>
    Subject: Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners
    Colm, If you have a left and right hand snips and you are cutting the stiffeners correctly, you should not have this problem. It looks like you drilled your holes prior to sizing the stiffeners, I think I made all of my stiffeners and then drilled the holes, but I'm not sure. Mark you stiffeners and then cut them within 1/16" and then use a file or belt sander to get them perfect. If all else fails, look for a builder in your area and ask for help, maybe at your local airport. You may need to order a little more material from Vans. Good luck. Jim RV9a building ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Randles To: rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 8:57 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Trimming the rudder stiffeners Wow, I just saw the bent and cracked stiffener on your blog. I didn't have any problems like that when I trimmed mine. They came out nice and straight. Make sure you're using the correct handedness snips for the direction you're cutting. Tim On Fri, Aug 21, 2009 at 9:31 AM, Colm O'Reilly <colm.oreilly@gmail.com> wrote: <colm.oreilly@gmail.com> I was trimming the rudder stiffeners with aviation snips last night, and it is fairly obvious to me now that that is not the right tool for the job. I thought of using the die grinder, but I don't want to heat the part too much. Thinking now of getting air nibblers which look inexpensive at about $100, another choice would be a bandsaw. Thoughts ? Thanks in advance. Colm http://oreillyrv8.blogspot.com/ ========== get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ========== http://forums.matronics.com ========== le, List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ==========


    Message 12


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    Time: 10:33:46 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners
    From: peter laurence <peterlaurence6@gmail.com>
    Colm, My 2 cents-- Get a bandsaw and buy a few bimetal non ferrous blades(for cutting Aluminum in this case) Get Harbor Freight's 12 inch sanding disk. Also, if you don't already have one, Get a "grinder" and use the brown and grey scotchbrite wheels for deburring small parts. You can use your die grinder with a scotchbrite rolac disk on larger parts. Cut the part on the bandsaw a little larger than the final dimensions. Place on the 12 sander and cut to the proper size. Deburr on the wheels. I'll be starting on my canopy soon. I have never had to use a snip. Peter On Fri, Aug 21, 2009 at 9:31 AM, Colm O'Reilly <colm.oreilly@gmail.com>wrote: > > I was trimming the rudder stiffeners with aviation snips last night, and it > is fairly obvious to me now that that is not the right tool for the job. > > I thought of using the die grinder, but I don't want to heat the part too > much. > > Thinking now of getting air nibblers which look inexpensive at about $100, > another choice would be a bandsaw. > > Thoughts ? > > Thanks in advance. > Colm > > http://oreillyrv8.blogspot.com/ > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 02:08:22 PM PST US
    From: "Lapsley R. and Sandra E. Caldwell" <lrsecaldwell@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Adjusting the fiberglass wing tip trailing edge
    I used the following approach on my RV7 First i match drilled the wingtip to the wing and clecoed/screwed it yo the wing while in the cradle. Then I centered the aileron and checked to see how far off the wing tip trailing edge was. Similar to yours about 1/4 inch. Next I split the wingtip trailing edge. then I pushed it to remove the misalignment with the centered aileron, using a straight edge to check to the centered aileron. In my case I did not have to split the side of the wingtip. While holding the split wingtip in the correct place with clamps I drilled several # 40 holes though the wing tip trailing edge. Now I could remove the clamps and return to the proper wingtip position by using clecos through the drilled holes. Then I spread the split and inserted wet fiberglass cloth and clecoed the split together Once dry I remove it from the wing and added more fiberglass internally for reinforcement and filled the #40 holes with epoxy filler. It was easier to do than to write up the procedure. Roger


    Message 14


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    Time: 06:17:42 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Jump Starting? - Solution
    From: J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com>
    Just thought I'd update anyone who followed the thread - and those who responded directly. First; Thanks to all who took the time to share their solutions or opinions. I read and carefully considered each of them. I take the idea of "experimental" more literally than some - so this may not be my ultimate solution; but it's my current one. My "design criteria" for a jump start are 1) safe 2) rreasonably easy 3) low parts cost and 4) low demand on the local FBO (if there is one). Number 4 probably drove my solution more than anything - as many of my destinations are Very Small airports with little or no FBO support. I can typically get into town from the airport - but if I break down, it's up to me to get going again. So I decided against any unique "plug" and will simply rely on getting access to normal car jumper cables. Therefore my solution was to route a 2AWG wire from the positive battery terminal along the top of the motor mount, terminating close to the oil access door. I chose the positive battery terminal over the master solenoid only because it was easier (and in my opinion, safer) routing. I had a leftover 2AWG wire out of Vans wiring package that was insulated & had lugs on both ends so I used that. I attached the wire to the motor mount at 4 points. Each point used 2 cushioned Adel clamps; one around the motor mount and the other around the wire. I put 2 layers of corrugated wire loom around the already insulated wire to protect it against a stray wrench/screw driver. To protect the lug at the oil-door, I tie wrapped a leftover auto-spark plug boot and 2 layers of corrugated wire loom. ( tho tie wrapping may be overkill, I don't expect to use it frequently and also didn't want the boot to accidentally vibrate out). I also put wire loom around surrounding motor mount pipes in case the jumper cable clamp slips. Now jumping my airplane should be easy. All I need is some borrowed/purchased auto jumper cables and a battery (airport car, another airplane, etc.). Just cutoff the tie wraps around the spark plug boot and connect the jumpers thru the oil access door; negative to the motor mount bolt and the positive to the exposed lug. Once it's started, put the boot back onto the lug and fly home. If the description doesn't make sense, just drop me a note and I'll send you pics. "Jerry"


    Message 15


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    Time: 07:23:58 PM PST US
    From: david cook <davercook1501@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Jump Starting? - Solution
    I did the same thing ,but I used a 3in piece of pvc just large enough to fit over the lug. Drilled a hole in the pvc and put a tywrap thru the hole and the lug. To use, just snip the tywrap , slide the pvc down the cable and attach the jumper cables as you suggest. David R. Cook N815DC RV-6 Flying ________________________________ From: J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com> Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 9:12:57 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Jump Starting? - Solution Just thought I'd update anyone who followed the thread - and those who responded directly. First; Thanks to all who took the time to share their solutions or opinions. I read and carefully considered each of them. I take the idea of "experimental" more literally than some - so this may not be my ultimate solution; but it's my current one. My "design criteria" for a jump start are 1) safe 2) rreasonably easy 3) low parts cost and 4) low demand on the local FBO (if there is one). Number 4 probably drove my solution more than anything - as many of my destinations are Very Small airports with little or no FBO support. I can typically get into town from the airport - but if I break down, it's up to me to get going again. So I decided against any unique "plug" and will simply rely on getting access to normal car jumper cables. Therefore my solution was to route a 2AWG wire from the positive battery terminal along the top of the motor mount, terminating close to the oil access door. I chose the positive battery terminal over the master solenoid only because it was easier (and in my opinion, safer) routing. I had a leftover 2AWG wire out of Vans wiring package that was insulated & had lugs on both ends so I used that. I attached the wire to the motor mount at 4 points. Each point used 2 cushioned Adel clamps; one around the motor mount and the other around the wire. I put 2 layers of corrugated wire loom around the already insulated wire to protect it against a stray wrench/screw driver. To protect the lug at the oil-door, I tie wrapped a leftover auto-spark plug boot and 2 layers of corrugated wire loom. ( tho tie wrapping may be overkill, I don't expect to use it frequently and also didn't want the boot to accidentally vibrate out). I also put wire loom around surrounding motor mount pipes in case the jumper cable clamp slips. Now jumping my airplane should be easy. All I need is some borrowed/purchased auto jumper cables and a battery (airport car, another airplane, etc.). Just cutoff the tie wraps around the spark plug boot and connect the jumpers thru the oil access door; negative to the motor mount bolt and the positive to the exposed lug. Once it's started, put the boot back onto the lug and fly home. If the description doesn't make sense, just drop me a note and I'll send you pics. "Jerry"


    Message 16


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    Time: 07:47:45 PM PST US
    From: Vanremog@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Jump Starting? - Solution
    So now that that is settled... perhaps now it's appropriate to discuss the wisdom or not of jumping into and immediately flying off in an airplane that is still trying to charge its (still dead) battery. ;o) N1GV (RV-6A Flying 924TTAE Silicon Valley, CA) In a message dated 8/21/2009 6:19:00 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, riffeljl@gmail.com writes: Now jumping my airplane should be easy. All I need is some borrowed/purchased auto jumper cables and a battery (airport car, another airplane, etc.). Just cutoff the tie wraps around the spark plug boot and connect the jumpers thru the oil access door; negative to the motor mount bolt and the positive to the exposed lug. Once it's started, put the boot back onto the lug and fly home.


    Message 17


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    Time: 08:17:12 PM PST US
    From: "Colm O'Reilly" <colm.oreilly@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Trimming the rudder stiffeners
    Thanks everyone for the excellent responses. Motivated by these I was able to apply some patience to the problem and trim them just fine this evening with the left (red) snips and then clean them up with the scotchbrite wheel. I am also chasing down a bandsaw and drill press. Thanks, Colm http://oreillyrv8.blogspot.com/ On Aug 21, 2009, at 9:31 AM, Colm O'Reilly wrote: > <colm.oreilly@gmail.com> > > I was trimming the rudder stiffeners with aviation snips last night, > and it is fairly obvious to me now that that is not the right tool > for the job. > > I thought of using the die grinder, but I don't want to heat the > part too much. > > Thinking now of getting air nibblers which look inexpensive at about > $100, another choice would be a bandsaw. > > Thoughts ? > > Thanks in advance. > Colm > > http://oreillyrv8.blogspot.com/ > >


    Message 18


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    Time: 08:43:54 PM PST US
    From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Jump Starting? - Solution
    I wonder how much safer that method is, trying to put the boot back on and make sure it is tie wrapped so the lug well not short out while standing a few inches from a spinning prop. J Riffel wrote: > Once it's started, put the boot back onto the lug and fly home. > > > * > > > *




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