Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:14 AM - Re: Engine Hesitation (RICHARD MILLER)
2. 04:52 AM - Re:RV-List Cowl Louvers (was engine hesitation) (rveighta@comcast.net)
3. 04:55 AM - Re: Engine Hesitation (Richard McBride)
4. 05:29 AM - Re: RV-List Cowl Louvers (was engine hesitation) (N395V)
5. 06:06 AM - Re: Engine Hesitation (rveighta@comcast.net)
6. 06:22 AM - Re: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... (rv6n@optonline.net)
7. 06:50 AM - Re: Re: RV-List Cowl Louvers (was engine hesitation) (David Cudney)
8. 08:06 AM - Re: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... (Valovich, Paul)
9. 08:42 AM - Engine Hesitation -Oil temps (Charles Brame)
10. 01:13 PM - Re: Waterproofing RV-4's (Mike Kellems)
11. 02:47 PM - Re: Engine Hesitation -Oil temps (Jim)
12. 05:19 PM - Re: Engine Hesitation (khorton)
13. 05:45 PM - Re: Re:RV-List Cowl Louvers (was engine hesitation) ()
14. 07:03 PM - Re: Re: Engine Hesitation (wgill10@comcast.net)
15. 07:22 PM - Re: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... (halbenjamin@optonline.net)
16. 10:11 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 09/14/09 (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
17. 10:23 PM - Re: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... (Matt Dralle)
18. 10:42 PM - Re: Engine Hesitation -Oil temps (RICHARD MILLER)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Engine Hesitation |
Walt
you have already tried the shotgun approach to solve this problem. Without a logging
engine monitor, i have to go back to the basics. As said before, it is air,
fuel or fire.
you have yet to tell us how old this engine is.
you have played with the fuel side, this is not something you should do without
the right tools. if you over lean these engines at max power you will be buying
another one.
On the fire side i need to know what you have installed.
One the air side there could be any number of things that could be causing this.
The problem with any experimental airplane, is that it is an experimental airplane.
They are all one offs. There is no decent customer support, since almost
everyone builds them a little different.
rick
a+p/ia 25+ yrs.
--- On Mon, 9/14/09, Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com> wrote:
> From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
> To: "rv list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Date: Monday, September 14, 2009, 2:50 PM
>
>
>
> #yiv892795043 .hmmessage P
> {
> margin:0px;padding:0px;}
> #yiv892795043 {
> font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
>
>
>
> Walt,
>
>
>
> Try tightening all the clamps and bolts on the intake
> system from the oil sump to the cylinder head and do a
> visual check on the rubber connectors for condition.
> If everything appears ok then, very carefully, spray soapy
> wateron the intake system while the engine is
> running. You won't see bubbles because it is
> sucking but the engine will stumble if it a big leak, or you
> will see EGT and cylinder head temp changes.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 20:05:03 +0000
> From: rveighta@comcast.net
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
>
>
>
> #yiv892795043 .ExternalClass p
> {}
>
>
>
> Mike, I'm not sure what you mean by checking for an
> intake leak. How do you go about doing that?
>
>
>
> Walt
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Robertson"
> <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> To: "rv list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 10:21:26 AM GMT -05:00
> US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
>
>
>
> #yiv892795043 .ExternalClass .EC_hmmessage P
> {padding:0px;}
> #yiv892795043 .ExternalClass body.EC_hmmessage
> {font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
>
> Walt,
>
> have you tried checking for an intake leak. It can
> cause exactly what you are talking about.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 12:56:45 +0000
> From: rveighta@comcast.net
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
>
>
>
>
> #yiv892795043 .ExternalClass p
> {}
>
>
> I
> have a Lycoming IO-360 in my RV8A which exhibits an
> engine hesitancy or "stumble" that is proving very
> difficult to diagnose.
> This problem shows up when taxiing back in after a flight,
> and in an RPM range of 750-1300. In flight there is no
> evidence of a stumble,
> and no stumble at initial start up, taxiing out for take
> off or during run-up. In other words, the engine only
> exhibits this behavior when it
> is warm.
>
> I have talked to some very knowledgable folks and have
> tried several things: (1) Reset the idle mixture, (2)
> removed and cleaned the
> servo finger screen, (3) removed the nozzles and placed
> them in a cup of acetone, which was then placed in a sonic
> cleaner for about
> an hour. After the nozzles were reinstalled, I test flew
> the plane and the stumble was gone. However, a subsequent
> test flight revealed
> that although the engine was running much smoother, an
> occasional stumble was still there.
>
> Additional facts:
>
> Oil temps are normal (around 180 deg F)
> Compression test is normal (all cylinders mid 70's)
> I'm using a Catto 3 blade prop
>
> Any and all suggestions you may have will be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Walt Shipley
>
>
>
> 3D============================================
> 3D============================================
> 3D============================================
> 3D============================================
>
>
>
>
> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Li/'
> target='_new'>Sign up now.
>
> t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
> p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> ronics.com
> ww.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> Your E-mail and More
> On-the-Go. Get Windows Li/'
> target='_new'>Sign up now.
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re:RV-List Cowl Louvers (was engine hesitation) |
Vince, one of the other listers asked me where I got my louvers but I can't
remember his name. I believe however that he has stopped
making them.=C2- If any on the list knows where to get them now, please a
dvise.
Also, if you go with the louvers, you will need some way to block them off
in cold weather. An electric mac servo might be a good
approach. Right now I just use metal covers when the weather turns cold.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 9:57:37 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
I was looking at the louvers also.=C2- I was holding that option as a las
t resort but it looks like I may have to go that way by next summer.=C2-
Thanks for the info.
=C2-
Vince
=C2-
From: rveighta@comcast.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
Vince, I too had temps above 200 F on warm days. That was before I installe
d=C2-louvered vents=C2-in the lower cowl. Now I have the reverse proble
m;
hard to get the oil temps up on cold days.
=C2-
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 6:28:47 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
Walt,
=C2-
I know that it is off the subject but how did you end up with oil temps in
the 180's?=C2- I also have an RV-8A with an IO-360-A1A and a Hartzell con
stant speed prop, I have one mag and one lightspeed ignition.=C2- On a wa
rm day I will see 205 - 210 in cruise.=C2- The only time I see 180 is in
the winter.=C2- My oil cooler is located behind #4 on the baffle.=C2- I
t has a 1" C-Channel stand off=C2-and is well sealed to the baffle.=C2-
I have cleaned up as much as I can, the baffle seal is good as evidenced b
y=C2-CHT's in the low to mid 300's.=C2- I even cut about two inches off
the bottom of the cowl to open up the exit a bit.=C2- How did you get 18
0's?????
=C2-
Vince=C2-
=C2-
From: rveighta@comcast.net
Subject: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
I have a Lycoming IO-360 in my RV8A which=C2- exhibits an engine hesitanc
y or "stumble" that is proving very difficult to diagnose.
This problem shows up when taxiing back in after a flight, and in an RPM ra
nge of 750-1300. In flight there is no evidence of a stumble,
and no stumble at initial start up, taxiing out for take off or during run-
up. In other words, the engine only exhibits this behavior when it
is warm.
=C2-
I have talked to some very knowledgable folks and have tried several things
: (1) Reset the idle mixture, (2) removed and cleaned the
servo finger screen, (3) removed the nozzles and placed them in a cup of ac
etone, which was then placed in a sonic cleaner for about
an hour. After the nozzles were reinstalled, I test flew the plane and the
stumble was gone. However, a subsequent test flight revealed
that although the engine was running much smoother, an occasional stumble w
as still there.
=C2-
Additional facts:
=C2-
Oil temps are normal (around 180 deg F)
Compression test is normal (all cylinders mid 70's)
I'm using a Catto 3 blade prop
=C2-
Any and all suggestions you may have will be greatly appreciated.
=C2-
Thanks,
=C2-
Walt Shipley
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Li/' target='_new'>Sign up no
w. t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List p://forums.matroni
cs.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution p://www.matronics.com/Na
vigator?RV-List ronics.com ww.matronics.com/contribution
=========
==
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine Hesitation |
No I'm not. I suspect my temps are due to a larger cooler, which is
probably not a viable option for you. The louvers sound like a good
solution.
Rick
On Sep 14, 2009, at 9:58 PM, Vincent Welch wrote:
> Are you using the cowl louvers also Rick?
>
> Vince
>
> From: rick.mcbride@me.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
> Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 19:30:56 -0400
>
> Vince,
>
> Just as another point of reference, I have an IO360-A3B6D in my -8
> with dual Lightspeed. It has a firewall mounted oil cooler (13 row
> if I recall). The plenum into the cooler has a butterfly valve.
> Without shutting the valve I rarely see temperatures about 200
> degrees unless in a climb on a hot day. It's not uncommon that I
> have to close the valve partially to get temps to 180 or above.
> With the valve open on a warm day my temps are usually in the 170s.
>
> Rick McBride
>
> On Sep 14, 2009, at 6:28 PM, Vincent Welch wrote:
>
> Walt,
>
> I know that it is off the subject but how did you end up with oil
> temps in the 180's? I also have an RV-8A with an IO-360-A1A and a
> Hartzell constant speed prop, I have one mag and one lightspeed
> ignition. On a warm day I will see 205 - 210 in cruise. The only
> time I see 180 is in the winter. My oil cooler is located behind #4
> on the baffle. It has a 1" C-Channel stand off and is well sealed
> to the baffle. I have cleaned up as much as I can, the baffle seal
> is good as evidenced by CHT's in the low to mid 300's. I even cut
> about two inches off the bottom of the cowl to open up the exit a
> bit. How did you get 180's?????
>
> Vince
>
> Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 12:56:45 +0000
> From: rveighta@comcast.net
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
>
> I have a Lycoming IO-360 in my RV8A which exhibits an engine
> hesitancy or "stumble" that is proving very difficult to diagnose.
> This problem shows up when taxiing back in after a flight, and in an
> RPM range of 750-1300. In flight there is no evidence of a stumble,
> and no stumble at initial start up, taxiing out for take off or
> during run-up. In other words, the engine only exhibits this
> behavior when it
> is warm.
>
> I have talked to some very knowledgable folks and have tried several
> things: (1) Reset the idle mixture, (2) removed and cleaned the
> servo finger screen, (3) removed the nozzles and placed them in a
> cup of acetone, which was then placed in a sonic cleaner for about
> an hour. After the nozzles were reinstalled, I test flew the plane
> and the stumble was gone. However, a subsequent test flight revealed
> that although the engine was running much smoother, an occasional
> stumble was still there.
>
> Additional facts:
>
> Oil temps are normal (around 180 deg F)
> Compression test is normal (all cylinders mid 70's)
> I'm using a Catto 3 blade prop
>
> Any and all suggestions you may have will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Walt Shipley
>
>
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
>
>
> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Li/' target='_new'>Sign
> up now.
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security barget='_new'>Get it now.
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Cowl Louvers (was engine hesitation) |
You can get the louvers here.......
http://www.averytools.com/
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263110#263110
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine Hesitation |
Rick, thanks for sticking with me on this problem. To answer your questions
, the engine is a 1978 IO-360 B4A. It is equipped with two
Bendix Magnitos=C2- (R) S4LN-30, P/N 10-51360-29=C2-=C2- (L) S4LN-21
=C2- P/N 10-51360-37.=C2- I am using=C2-Unison =C2-Aviation plugs,
UREM37BY.
Sparkplug wires are standard Lycoming.
Thanks again.....
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "RICHARD MILLER" <rickpegser@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 3:58:48 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
Walt
you have already tried the shotgun approach to solve this problem. Without
a logging engine monitor, i have to go back to the basics. As said before,
it is air, fuel or fire.
you have yet to tell us how old this engine is.
you have played with the fuel side, this is not something you should do wit
hout the right tools. if you over lean these engines at max power you will
be buying another one.
On the fire side i need to know what you have installed.
One the air side there could be any number of things that could be causing
this.
The problem with any experimental airplane, is that it is an experimental a
irplane. They are all one offs. There is no decent customer support, since
almost everyone builds them a little different.
rick
a+p/ia 25+ yrs.
--- On Mon, 9/14/09, Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com> wrote:
> From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
> To: "rv list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Date: Monday, September 14, 2009, 2:50 PM
>
>
>
> #yiv892795043 .hmmessage P
> {
> margin:0px;padding:0px;}
> #yiv892795043 {
> font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
>
>
> =C2-
> Walt,
>
> =C2-
>
> Try tightening all the clamps and bolts on the intake
> system from the oil sump to the cylinder head and do a
> visual check on the rubber connectors for condition.=C2-
> If everything appears ok then, very carefully, spray soapy
> water=C2-on the intake system while the engine is
> running.=C2- You won't see bubbles because it is
> sucking but the engine will stumble if it a big leak, or you
> will see EGT and cylinder head temp changes.
>
> =C2-
>
> Mike
> =C2-
>
>
> Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 20:05:03 +0000
> From: rveighta@comcast.net
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
>
>
>
> #yiv892795043 .ExternalClass p
> {}
>
>
>
> Mike, I'm not sure what you mean by checking for an
> intake leak. How do you go about doing that?
>
> =C2-
>
> Walt
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Robertson"
> <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> To: "rv list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 10:21:26 AM GMT -05:00
> US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
>
>
>
> #yiv892795043 .ExternalClass .EC_hmmessage P
> {padding:0px;}
> #yiv892795043 .ExternalClass body.EC_hmmessage
> {font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
>
> Walt,
> =C2-
> have you tried checking for an intake leak.=C2- It can
> cause exactly what you are talking about.
> =C2-
> Mike Robertson
> =C2-
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 12:56:45 +0000
> From: rveighta@comcast.net
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
>
>
>
>
> #yiv892795043 .ExternalClass p
> {}
>
>
> I
> have a Lycoming IO-360 in my RV8A which=C2- exhibits an
> engine hesitancy or "stumble" that is proving very
> difficult to diagnose.
> This problem shows up when taxiing back in after a flight,
> and in an RPM range of 750-1300. In flight there is no
> evidence of a stumble,
> and no stumble at initial start up, taxiing out for take
> off or during run-up. In other words, the engine only
> exhibits this behavior when it
> is warm.
> =C2-
> I have talked to some very knowledgable folks and have
> tried several things: (1) Reset the idle mixture, (2)
> removed and cleaned the
> servo finger screen, (3) removed the nozzles and placed
> them in a cup of acetone, which was then placed in a sonic
> cleaner for about
> an hour. After the nozzles were reinstalled, I test flew
> the plane and the stumble was gone. However, a subsequent
> test flight revealed
> that although the engine was running much smoother, an
> occasional stumble was still there.
> =C2-
> Additional facts:
> =C2-
> Oil temps are normal (around 180 deg F)
> Compression test is normal (all cylinders mid 70's)
> I'm using a Catto 3 blade prop
> =C2-
> Any and all suggestions you may have will be greatly
> appreciated.
> =C2-
> Thanks,
> =C2-
> Walt Shipley
>
>
>
> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
>
>
>
>
> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Li/'
> target='_new'>Sign up now.
>
> t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
> p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> ronics.com
> ww.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> Your E-mail and More
> On-the-Go. Get Windows Li/'
> target='_new'>Sign up now.
>
>
>
>
>
=C2-=C2- =C2- =C2-
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... |
Matt,
It has been about six years since I made my baffles on my RV6 with an 0-360 but
I remember having to trim quite a bit. I must have had it on and off a few dozen
times to get it to fit perfectly. Having seen your progress from your postings
I am certain you will get it right, just trim a little at a time, check
and repeat.
Forget about having a blister on the cowl for the oil cooler, you will have to
address the mount after the cowl fits.
Good luck,
Bob Bales
do not archive
----- Original Message ----
From: Matt Dralle
Subject: RV-List: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit...
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> The RV-8's cowling done and fits like a glove. I started the
> baffling last night and its coming along nicely. The fit on the
> sides and back are very good considering the IO-390 installation
> (and the use of the IO-360 baffle kit). The front baffling is
> completely different, however, and I'm slogging through the
> custom fitting.
>
> But here's my question. I decided to put the top cowling on top
> of the baffling that I've got installed so far and I was shocked
> that the baffling appears to be a good 1 to 1.5" too tall!! Is
> this because of the IO-390 or is that just where Van's expects
> you to start in your "cutting-it-down-to-size" phase? That's a
> lot of snipping and fitting and snipping and fitting. I was
> expecting to have to trim some, but not over a inch...
>
> Also, it looks like the over-sized oil cooler is going to fit
> nicely on the rear baffle with only a little "modification".
> But I'm not sure if the back, upper corner is going to clear the
> cowling. Since the cowling is sitting over a inch high right
> now, I've got no way to really trial fit the oil cooler and
> check for cowling clearance until I trim the baffling down.
> Worst-case I could put a blister on the cowling for the rear,
> upper flange of the oil cooler, I suppose, but that's kind of
> hokey. There is room to move the oil cooler in towards the
> centerline about 1", but then the mount will no longer line up
> with the flange on the outboard edge and will require more
> modifications.
> Thoughts...?
>
> Attached are some pics. ( Digest viewers check
> http://forums.matronics.com ).
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mykitlog.com/dralle
> Baffling and Oil Cooler...
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Cowl Louvers (was engine hesitation) |
I used cowl louvers on my 7A with the oil cooler that Van supplied
(io 360) and I am going to have to block part of the oil cooler off
this fall to raise the temps a bit --even on the hottest days going
across the dessert the temps seldom get above 190 on take off and in
the low 180s in cruse. Cylinder temps have stayed below 350 usually
around 330 F. I'm not sure I needed the louvers -- but they look great.
Dave @ RAL
125 hours
On Sep 15, 2009, at 5:28 AM, N395V wrote:
>
> You can get the louvers here.......
>
> http://www.averytools.com/
>
> --------
> Milt
> 2003 F1 Rocket
> 2006 Radial Rocket
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263110#263110
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... |
Matt,
Seems like I've been working on the baffles for years - but its been severa
l months! It's a slow tedious process. - Tonight I'm going to rivet the air
seal fabric and declare victory.
I'm building an RV-8A with a new Aerosport IO-360. The thing that bothered
me most during the baffle saga was the amount of metal material I had to r
emove in order to get the 3/8-1/2 inch baffle to cowl clnc. And the difficu
lty I had getting the cowl to fit over the oil cooler (standard Vans) corne
r. I'd estimate I removed a third of the metal is some areas.
As I got closer I used a zillion large paper clips set next to each other a
ll around the baffles to get final shape / clnc. Basically, set a zillion p
aper clips, attach - or place the cowl where baffle interference prevents a
ttachment - cowl, mark 3/8-1/2 inch from top of paper clips on baffles, rem
ove baffles, trim baffles - usually in 1/8 inch increments, reattach baffle
s - and repeat ad infinitum.
After getting the final shape, I worked with the airseal fabric - 1 inch be
low and 1 =BD inches above baffle contour. Drilled and clecoed airseal fabr
ic to baffle - then fiddled with corners - including lacing - to get the be
st seal possible.
I went through my adjective vocabulary many, many times.
A related question for the assembled expertise: I have one Lightspeed and o
ne mag. Are blast tubes needed - or can I leave a small gap along the botto
m of the rear baffles to provide some airflow aft of the baffles?
Paul Valovich
N192NM Reserved - again
Ridgecrest, CA
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Engine Hesitation -Oil temps |
I have an RV-6A with an IO-320 and initially was plagued by very high
(240=B0+) oil temps. I tried a variety of solutions without help,
including adding louvers to the bottom of the cowl, opening up the
cowl air exit area, changing Vernatherms, changing oil pressure
settings, checking timing, etc. Nothing helped. I was convinced my
rebuilt engine had the wrong bearing inserts and so we (my engine
builder and I) pulled the engine and tore it down. Bottom line was all
of the internal engine specs were well within tolerance with no signs
of overheating or stress. Reassembled and reinstalled, the high oil
temps remained.
My oil cooler was a Van's Niagara mounted on the firewall and fed by a
3 inch scat tube with air taken from behind cylinder number three. I
changed to a larger, more efficient (and much more expensive) Stewart
Warner cooler from ACS and fed it with a 4 inch scat tube. (can't
remember the nomenclature, but if anybody is interested, I'll look it
up.) Problem solved. Now, even on a 100=B0+ day, climbing out with a hot
engine, I rarely see more than 200=B0 oil temps. In cruise my oil temps
are a consistent 179=B0 even at low altitudes, at high rpm, on a hot
day.
One other solution - My AFP fuel injection has a fuel control metering
jet that provides additional fuel at full throttle to help keep CHTs
cool. Changing the metering jet to the next available size larger
dropped my CHTs by about 50=B0 during the climb and also helped keep the
oil temps cool.
I'm considering covering the cowl louvers over to see if that makes
any difference now.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
--------------------------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 6:28:47 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
Walt,
=C2-
I know that it is off the subject but how did you end up with oil
temps in
the 180's?=C2- I also have an RV-8A with an IO-360-A1A and a Hartzell
con
stant speed prop, I have one mag and one lightspeed ignition.=C2- On a
wa
rm day I will see 205 - 210 in cruise.=C2- The only time I see 180 is
in
the winter.=C2- My oil cooler is located behind #4 on the baffle.=C2-
I
t has a 1" C-Channel stand off=C2-and is well sealed to the
baffle.=C2-
I have cleaned up as much as I can, the baffle seal is good as
evidenced b
y=C2-CHT's in the low to mid 300's.=C2- I even cut about two inches
off
the bottom of the cowl to open up the exit a bit.=C2- How did you get
18
0's?????
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Waterproofing RV-4's |
I had the same problem with an RV4...I-also tightly wrapped the wax paper
on the forward deck. - then put clear silicone on the wax paper thick enou
gh to squeeze out with the canopy-closed.- Waited overnight, peeled the
wax paper off of the silicone-and trimmed the excess with box cutter fro
nt and inside.- Worked quite well. I was able to-hose-the plane down
without leaks afterward. And, was not noticable.
Mike Kellems
RV3 74TX
Tough Times don't last - Tough People do!!
--- On Mon, 9/14/09, Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Waterproofing RV-4's
Jeff, I had the same problem with mine.- What I did was cut off the front
of the fiberglass fairing that laps up on the forward skin.- Then I cove
red the forward skin, very tightly, with wax paper (or use a mold release a
s long as it doesn't hurt the paint.)- Then I adjusted the canopy to clos
e very tightly.- Glassed a new fairing on top of the old one, overlapping
the front skin in an arc fashion.- Let it cure closed.- Then trimmed t
o fit, and put a seal from Ace Hardware underneath.- Flew IMC quite a bit
without any more leaking.
Paul Besing
From: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 9:39:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Waterproofing RV-4's
My RV-4 can't fly through rain.- It leaks terribly the forward edge of th
e tip over canopy.- I've tried various seals, the latest being a V-shaped
seal.- Does anyone know how to really waterproof the RV-4?
-
Jeff Bertsch
Houston
=0A=0A=0A
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine Hesitation -Oil temps |
My carbureted 6-A O-360-A1A Hartzell C/S suffered hi oil and cylinder
head temps on the hotter days that required reducing climb rates to
avoid over heating.
I went out and bought some louvers then just before installing them I
was advised to contact my engine builder regarding carburetor main jet
sizes and their effect on engine temps.
The main jet size was increased and the engine now runs comfortably cool
at what ever climb rate is required. OATs well above 35 degrees Celsius
are no longer a problem.
I'm pleased that the louvers and their associated drag are no longer
required.
I slept in one of those damned hotels, ....It did nothing to improve my
expertise on the ins and outs of upper and lower cowling air flow rates
and their effect on engine temps and associated drag etc.
It just seemed to me that if other RV6-A types can run cool without the
added louvers then so should mine.
In this case The "KISS" principle might well be the right approach,
Jim in Kelowna
P.S. Jerry did you decide to stay on the lists for a while yet
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Brame
To: RV List
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 8:41 AM
Subject: RV-List: Engine Hesitation -Oil temps
I have an RV-6A with an IO-320 and initially was plagued by very high
(240=B0+) oil temps. I tried a variety of solutions without help,
including adding louvers to the bottom of the cowl, opening up the cowl
air exit area, changing Vernatherms, changing oil pressure settings,
checking timing, etc. Nothing helped. I was convinced my rebuilt engine
had the wrong bearing inserts and so we (my engine builder and I) pulled
the engine and tore it down. Bottom line was all of the internal engine
specs were well within tolerance with no signs of overheating or stress.
Reassembled and reinstalled, the high oil temps remained.
My oil cooler was a Van's Niagara mounted on the firewall and fed by a
3 inch scat tube with air taken from behind cylinder number three. I
changed to a larger, more efficient (and much more expensive) Stewart
Warner cooler from ACS and fed it with a 4 inch scat tube. (can't
remember the nomenclature, but if anybody is interested, I'll look it
up.) Problem solved. Now, even on a 100=B0+ day, climbing out with a hot
engine, I rarely see more than 200=B0 oil temps. In cruise my oil temps
are a consistent 179=B0 even at low altitudes, at high rpm, on a hot
day.
One other solution - My AFP fuel injection has a fuel control metering
jet that provides additional fuel at full throttle to help keep CHTs
cool. Changing the metering jet to the next available size larger
dropped my CHTs by about 50=B0 during the climb and also helped keep the
oil temps cool.
I'm considering covering the cowl louvers over to see if that makes
any difference now.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
--------------------------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 6:28:47 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada
Eastern
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
Walt,
=C2-
I know that it is off the subject but how did you end up with oil
temps in
the 180's?=C2- I also have an RV-8A with an IO-360-A1A and a
Hartzell con
stant speed prop, I have one mag and one lightspeed ignition.=C2- On
a wa
rm day I will see 205 - 210 in cruise.=C2- The only time I see 180
is in
the winter.=C2- My oil cooler is located behind #4 on the
baffle.=C2- I
t has a 1" C-Channel stand off=C2-and is well sealed to the
baffle.=C2-
I have cleaned up as much as I can, the baffle seal is good as
evidenced b
y=C2-CHT's in the low to mid 300's.=C2- I even cut about two
inches off
the bottom of the cowl to open up the exit a bit.=C2- How did you
get 18
0's?????
Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (6.0.0.19 - 10.004.088).
http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/
Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (6.0.0.19 - 10.004.088).
http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine Hesitation |
rveighta(at)comcast.net wrote:
> I have a Lycoming IO-360 in my RV8A which exhibits an engine hesitancy or "stumble"
that is proving very difficult to diagnose.
> This problem shows up when taxiing back in after a flight, and in an RPM range
of 750-1300. In flight there is no evidence of a stumble,
> and no stumble at initial start up, taxiing out for take off or during run-up.
In other words, the engine only exhibits this behavior when it
> is warm.
>
Fuel injected Lycomings quite commonly run rough at idle if the engine is hot,
as the fuel vaporizes in the fuel injection lines from the "spider" to the fuel
injectors (it may be vaporizing in the spider too, so simply insulating the
injection lines might not be an adequate test). They run OK at higher power,
as the pressure in the spider and those lines increases as the fuel flow increases.
At higher power the fuel pressure is high enough to keep the fuel from
vaporizing.
If this is the cause of your rough running, you might be able to improve things
by switching to fuel injection nozzles from Air Flow Performance. They sell
nozzles with many different diameters. Smaller nozzles require higher line pressure
to get the same fuel flow, so this reduces the chances of fuel vaporizing
at idle. If you go down this road, you need to be sure you are still getting
enough fuel flow at take-off power. I don't know if you can just install
these smaller nozzles and go flying, or if the fuel injection servo needs to
be set up on a flow bench. Don at AFP would know.
--------
Kevin Horton RV-8
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263218#263218
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re:RV-List Cowl Louvers (was engine hesitation) |
I beleive I bought mine from avey, only used one of them though. Mark
Rose RV8A 175hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: rveighta@comcast.net
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 4:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re:RV-List Cowl Louvers (was engine hesitation)
Vince, one of the other listers asked me where I got my louvers but I
can't remember his name. I believe however that he has stopped
making them. If any on the list knows where to get them now, please
advise.
Also, if you go with the louvers, you will need some way to block them
off in cold weather. An electric mac servo might be a good
approach. Right now I just use metal covers when the weather turns
cold.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
To: "RV List Matronics" <rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 9:57:37 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada
Eastern
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
I was looking at the louvers also. I was holding that option as a
last resort but it looks like I may have to go that way by next summer.
Thanks for the info.
Vince
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 23:54:17 +0000
From: rveighta@comcast.net
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
Vince, I too had temps above 200 F on warm days. That was before I
installed louvered vents in the lower cowl. Now I have the reverse
problem;
hard to get the oil temps up on cold days.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
To: "RV List Matronics" <rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 6:28:47 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada
Eastern
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
Walt,
I know that it is off the subject but how did you end up with oil
temps in the 180's? I also have an RV-8A with an IO-360-A1A and a
Hartzell constant speed prop, I have one mag and one lightspeed
ignition. On a warm day I will see 205 - 210 in cruise. The only time
I see 180 is in the winter. My oil cooler is located behind #4 on the
baffle. It has a 1" C-Channel stand off and is well sealed to the
baffle. I have cleaned up as much as I can, the baffle seal is good as
evidenced by CHT's in the low to mid 300's. I even cut about two inches
off the bottom of the cowl to open up the exit a bit. How did you get
180's?????
Vince
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 12:56:45 +0000
From: rveighta@comcast.net
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
I have a Lycoming IO-360 in my RV8A which exhibits an engine
hesitancy or "stumble" that is proving very difficult to diagnose.
This problem shows up when taxiing back in after a flight, and in an
RPM range of 750-1300. In flight there is no evidence of a stumble,
and no stumble at initial start up, taxiing out for take off or during
run-up. In other words, the engine only exhibits this behavior when it
is warm.
I have talked to some very knowledgable folks and have tried several
things: (1) Reset the idle mixture, (2) removed and cleaned the
servo finger screen, (3) removed the nozzles and placed them in a cup
of acetone, which was then placed in a sonic cleaner for about
an hour. After the nozzles were reinstalled, I test flew the plane and
the stumble was gone. However, a subsequent test flight revealed
that although the engine was running much smoother, an occasional
stumble was still there.
Additional facts:
Oil temps are normal (around 180 deg F)
Compression test is normal (all cylinders mid 70's)
I'm using a Catto 3 blade prop
Any and all suggestions you may have will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Walt Shipley
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Li/' target='_new'>Sign
up now.
t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by get='_new'>Get it now.
t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine Hesitation |
Installing a cooling shroud for the mechanical fuel pump should help accord
ing to Don at AFP. I have not done this yet, but intend to do so. I have a
Lycoming IO-390 with AFP fuel injection and the engine stumble has been a c
ommon occurrence following most summer flights or after engine start with l
ong ilde periods such as OSH taxi for departure. The engine stumble also oc
curs when fuel flow is very low (loitering with fuel flow at less than 6.8
gal/hr). There is NO hesitation during power application (take-off).
Bill
RV-7
500 hours since 11/2007
----- Original Message -----
From: "khorton" <kevin01@kilohotel.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 7:18:23 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: RV-List: Re: Engine Hesitation
rveighta(at)comcast.net wrote:
> I have a Lycoming IO-360 in my RV8A which =C2-exhibits an engine hesita
ncy or "stumble" that is proving very difficult to diagnose.
> This problem shows up when taxiing back in after a flight, and in an RPM
range of 750-1300. In flight there is no evidence of a stumble,
> and no stumble at initial start up, taxiing out for take off or during ru
n-up. In other words, the engine only exhibits this behavior when it
> is warm. =C2-
>
Fuel injected Lycomings quite commonly run rough at idle if the engine is h
ot, as the fuel vaporizes in the fuel injection lines from the "spider" to
the fuel injectors (it may be vaporizing in the spider too, so simply insul
ating the injection lines might not be an adequate test). =C2-They run OK
at higher power, as the pressure in the spider and those lines increases a
s the fuel flow increases. =C2-At higher power the fuel pressure is high
enough to keep the fuel from vaporizing.
If this is the cause of your rough running, you might be able to improve th
ings by switching to fuel injection nozzles from Air Flow Performance. =C2
-They sell nozzles with many different diameters. =C2-Smaller nozzles r
equire higher line pressure to get the same fuel flow, so this reduces the
chances of fuel vaporizing at idle. =C2- =C2-If you go down this road,
you need to be sure you are still getting enough fuel flow at take-off powe
r. =C2-I don't know if you can just install these smaller nozzles and go
flying, or if the fuel injection servo needs to be set up on a flow bench.
=C2-Don at AFP would know.
--------
Kevin Horton =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- RV-8
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263218#263218
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 09/14/09 |
Interesting you should mention this Walt:
I have a similar problem with my RV-6A. A little history, the airplane was
signed off about a year ago and the first flight was right after
Thanksgiving. It ended with a dead engine during landing when over the
runway. Richening the mixture made it only slightly better so I began a 5
month quest to figure out why the engine didn't want to idle. I had some
feedback from people who said my problem was that I chose to use a wood prop
on an 0-360 engine WITH fuel injection. I was a bit skeptical and also had
feedback about checking for an intake leak so I went searching for a
possible problem there. I did find an intake leak, the hose clamp on the
number 1 cylinder intake tube at the sump. I tightened the hose clamp there
and also the intake tube bolts at the cylinder head (they weren't leaking
but were not at the correct torque). That helped only a little and didn't
cure the problem of the engine not wanting to idle when hot.
So I took up the advice of the "get a metal prop" crowd and bought a FP
Sensenich. It added lots of inertia (40 pounds vs wood at 15 pounds), which
would keep the engine turning over long enough to grab some throttle when it
wanted to quit but, it was a $2100.00 experiment that did NOT fix the
problem. So, I did what I should have done in the first place and checked
EVERYTHING in the fuel and ignition systems for problems. To make a long
story short, I discovered a sticky flow divider in the fuel injection
system. I talked to Don Rivera at Airflow Performance (mfgr of my injection
system) and he had me return the flow divider for repair. Once repaired, I
was able to lean the mixture to the proper fuel flow at idle and the engine
ran great, no stumbling or wanting to quit at idle with the metal prop. Don
did warn me that these systems will NOT always idle like a car and, that
engine stumbling would probably occur occasionally, especially when taxiing
after landing on a hot day.
After the flow divider was fixed I was always curious if the wood prop would
work now that the engine ran properly but didn't have the energy to do the
swap. Then, when Sensenich sent me a service letter requesting I return the
metal prop for radiographic inspection, I reinstalled the wood prop and have
been flying with it for a while. I also am experiencing a bit of a stumble
when taxiing back to the hangar after I land very similar to what you are
describing. I attribute it to what Don told me when he repaired my flow
divider. These FI systems are continuous flow types operated by atmospheric
pressure with no fuel returned to the tank during operation. The flow
divider and capillary tubes get hot because the engine is hot after you land
and the slow speed means cool air is NOT flowing over these parts (and the
fuel flow rate through the system is much lower). All that heat goes into
those stainless lines and the flow divider which, causes the occasional
bubble in the fuel which, results in the engine stumble you are
experiencing.
When I hear the engine stumbling I give a bit of throttle, what I don't like
is that I sometimes forget to retard the throttle and end up dragging the
brakes. Since I have the metal prop back in my possession now I'll
re-install it next time I have the cowling off but, for now, I like the
light weight and smoothness of the wood prop so I've been very happy flying
with it.
How long have you had this problem? If it wasn't a problem before and only
started giving you trouble recently (after several tens or hundreds of hours
of trouble free flying) then I'd say the intake leak is the most likely
suspect. If you just installed the prop and it has been giving you problems
from day one, then it may very well be what I describe above and you'll just
have to live with it. It's been an interesting education for me and I'm
just happy to be able to pass on my experiences now that everything is
working on my airplane. Let me know what you find out.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Finally finishing Phase I
-------------Original Message-------------------
>From: rveighta@comcast.net
>Subject: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
>
>I have a Lycoming IO-360 in my RV8A which exhibits an engine hesitancy or
>"stumble" that is proving very difficult to diagnose. This problem shows up
>when taxiing back in after a flight, and in an RPM range of 750-1300. In
>flight there is no evidence of a stumble, and no stumble at initial start
>up, taxiing out for take off or during run-up. In other words, the engine
>only exhibits this behavior when it is warm....
>
>Walt Shipley
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... |
I just wanted to thank everyone for the great feedback on this baffling cut-down
procedure. I'm glad to hear that it wasn't just my installation!! :-)
I'll post some more pictures when I get things hacked down to size and that oil
cooler mounted.
Hey, check out my newly registered URL for my RV-8 Building site:
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Baffling and Oil Cooler...
At 07:00 PM 9/14/2009 Monday, you wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>The RV-8's cowling done and fits like a glove. I started the baffling last night
and its coming along nicely. The fit on the sides and back are very good
considering the IO-390 installation (and the use of the IO-360 baffle kit). The
front baffling is completely different, however, and I'm slogging through the
custom fitting.
>
>But here's my question. I decided to put the top cowling on top of the baffling
that I've got installed so far and I was shocked that the baffling appears
to be a good 1 to 1.5" too tall!! Is this because of the IO-390 or is that just
where Van's expects you to start in your "cutting-it-down-to-size" phase?
That's a lot of snipping and fitting and snipping and fitting. I was expecting
to have to trim some, but not over a inch...
>
>Also, it looks like the over-sized oil cooler is going to fit nicely on the rear
baffle with only a little "modification". But I'm not sure if the back, upper
corner is going to clear the cowling. Since the cowling is sitting over a
inch high right now, I've got no way to really trial fit the oil cooler and check
for cowling clearance until I trim the baffling down. Worst-case I could
put a blister on the cowling for the rear, upper flange of the oil cooler, I
suppose, but that's kind of hokey. There is room to move the oil cooler in towards
the centerline about 1", but then the mount will no longer line up with
the flange on the outboard edge and will require more modifications.
>
>Thoughts...?
>
>Attached are some pics. ( Digest viewers check http://forums.matronics.com ).
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>http://www.mattsrv8.com
>Baffling and Oil Cooler...
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine Hesitation -Oil temps |
fuel is cool literally, that is the problem setting io's without the right gear.
As we all know if you lean them out they will burnup. if we can get away from
the "lowlead" it would be nice to be able to run o2 sensors.
rick
--- On Tue, 9/15/09, Jim <jjewell@telus.net> wrote:
> From: Jim <jjewell@telus.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Hesitation -Oil temps
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, September 15, 2009, 2:20 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> My carbureted
> 6-A O-360-A1A Hartzell
> C/Ssuffered hi oil and cylinder head temps on the
> hotter days that
> required reducing climb rates to avoid over heating.
>
> I went out and bought some
> louvers then just before
> installing them I was advised to contact my engine builder
> regarding carburetor
> main jet sizes and their effect on engine
> temps.
> The mainjet size was
> increased and the engine
> now runs comfortably cool at what ever climb rate is
> required. OATs well above
> 35 degrees Celsius are no longer a problem.
>
> I'm pleased that the
> louvers and their associated
> drag are no longer required.
> I slept in one of those
> damned hotels, ....It did
> nothing to improve my expertise on the ins and outs of
> upper and lower cowling
> air flow rates and their effect on engine temps and
> associated drag
> etc.
> It just seemed to me that
> if other RV6-A types can
> run cool without the added louvers then so should
> mine.
>
> In this case The
> "KISS" principle might well be the
> right approach,
>
> Jim in
> Kelowna
>
> P.S. Jerry did you
> decide to stay on the
> lists for a while yet
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From:
> Charles Brame
>
> To: RV List
>
> Sent: Tuesday,
> September 15, 2009 8:41
> AM
> Subject: RV-List:
> Engine Hesitation -Oil
> temps
>
>
> I have an RV-6A with an IO-320 and initially was
> plagued by very
> high(240+)oil temps. I tried a variety of
> solutions without help,
> including adding louvers to the bottom of the cowl,
> opening up the cowl air
> exit area, changing Vernatherms, changing oil pressure
> settings, checking
> timing, etc. Nothing helped. I was convinced my rebuilt
> engine had the wrong
> bearing inserts and so we (my engine builder and I)
> pulled the engine and tore
> it down. Bottom line was all of the internal engine specs
> were well within
> tolerance with no signs of overheating or stress.
> Reassembled and reinstalled,
> the high oil temps remained.
>
>
> My oil cooler was a Van's Niagara mounted on the
> firewall and fed by a 3
> inch scat tube with air taken from behind cylinder number
> three. I changed to
> a larger, more efficient (and much more expensive)
> Stewart Warner cooler from
> ACS and fed it with a 4 inch scat tube. (can't
> remember the nomenclature, but
> if anybody is interested, I'll look it up.) Problem
> solved. Now, even on a
> 100+ day, climbing out with a hot engine, I rarely see
> more than 200 oil
> temps. In cruise my oil temps are a consistent179
> even at low
> altitudes, at high rpm, on a hot day.
>
>
> One other solution - My AFP fuel injection has a
> fuel control metering
> jetthat provides additional fuel at full throttle
> to help keep CHTs
> cool.Changing the metering jet to the next
> available size larger dropped
> my CHTs by about 50 during the climb and also helped
> keep the oil temps
> cool.
>
>
> I'm considering covering the cowl louvers over
> to see if that makes any
> difference now.
>
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> -----
> Original Message -----
> From:From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
> Sent:
> Monday, September 14, 2009 6:28:47 PM GMT -05:00
> US/Canada
> Eastern
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine
> Hesitation
>
> Walt,
> =C2-
> I know that it is off the
> subject but how did you end up with oil temps in
> the 180's?=C2- I
> also have an RV-8A with an IO-360-A1A and a Hartzell con
> stant speed prop,
> I have one mag and one lightspeed ignition.=C2- On a wa
> rm day I will see
> 205 - 210 in cruise.=C2- The only time I see 180 is
> in
> the
> winter.=C2- My oil cooler is located behind #4 on the
> baffle.=C2- I
> t has a
> 1" C-Channel stand off=C2-and is well sealed to the
> baffle.=C2-
> I have
> cleaned up as much as I can, the baffle seal is good as
> evidenced
> b
> y=C2-CHT's in the low to mid 300's.=C2- I even cut
> about two inches
> off
> the bottom of the cowl to open up the exit a bit.=C2- How
> did you get
> 18
> 0's?????
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
> Checked by
> PC Tools AntiVirus (6.0.0.19 - 10.004.088).
> http://www.pctools.com/fr
>
>
>
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|