Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:21 AM - Re: Painting The Baffling... (Richard McBride)
2. 05:55 AM - Re: Painting The Baffling... (peter laurence)
3. 07:18 AM - Re: Matching Powder Coating on Van's product (Marty Santic)
4. 08:50 AM - Painting the Baffling... (grenwis@aol.com)
5. 09:18 AM - Re: Painting The Baffling... (Chuck Daus)
6. 10:06 AM - Re: Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test (Tracy Crook)
7. 11:23 AM - Re: Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test (rveighta@comcast.net)
8. 11:40 AM - Fw: Engine Hesitation - Case Closed (rveighta@comcast.net)
9. 12:08 PM - Re: Gear leg fairing scribe lines (Bob Collins)
10. 02:19 PM - Louvers again (John Veld)
11. 03:01 PM - Re: Front Mounted Governor vs. Rear Mounted Governor... (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Painting The Baffling... |
Matt,
I powder coated the baffling on my -8 and after 500 hours and five
years have had absolutely no problem. I don't recall but I'm pretty
sure it was not a high-temp coating.
Rick McBride
On Sep 20, 2009, at 11:02 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I had been planning on black anodizing the various engine baffling
> pieces in keeping with my black-n-chrome theme under the hood. But
> I'm noticing that the pieces are getting pretty scratched up during
> all of this extra fitting that's necessary for the IO-390. Since
> the pieces can't be run through a surfacer first because of the
> bends, I'm rethinking how good anodizing is really going to look.
>
> I know we're not suppose to power coat the 2024-T3 because the
> curing heat required can un-T3 the 2024, but does it really matter
> for the baffling? Its not really structural, per say. And if power
> coating is alright, what effects will the engine compartment heat
> have on the power coating? There's probably a high-temp power coat,
> but it would likely require a higher curing temp, and that get's us
> back to the first sentence of this paragraph... Power coating the
> baffling would definitely look pretty cool.
>
> Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would look super
> cool. Can you chrome 2024-T3? How much would that cost compared to
> power coating?
>
> Am I fussing too much under the hood? ;-)
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com
> FWF Baffling, Intake, and Governor...
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Painting The Baffling... |
Matt,
My two cents.
If you really need to paint---
I would etch, chromic convert ( "Alodine"). Shoot a two part epoxy primer,
and paint.
You did do this for the whole plane did you not?
This should be good for 2000 Hours.
Peter
> Dear Listers,
>
> I had been planning on black anodizing the various engine baffling pieces
> in keeping with my black-n-chrome theme under the hood. But I'm noticing
> that the pieces are getting pretty scratched up during all of this extra
> fitting that's necessary for the IO-390. Since the pieces can't be run
> through a surfacer first because of the bends, I'm rethinking how good
> anodizing is really going to look.
>
> I know we're not suppose to power coat the 2024-T3 because the curing heat
> required can un-T3 the 2024, but does it really matter for the baffling?
> Its not really structural, per say. And if power coating is alright, what
> effects will the engine compartment heat have on the power coating? There's
> probably a high-temp power coat, but it would likely require a higher curing
> temp, and that get's us back to the first sentence of this paragraph...
> Power coating the baffling would definitely look pretty cool.
>
> Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would look super cool. Can
> you chrome 2024-T3? How much would that cost compared to power coating?
>
> Am I fussing too much under the hood? ;-)
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com
> FWF Baffling, Intake, and Governor...
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Matching Powder Coating on Van's product |
It is also listed as an item in Van's Accessories Catalog.
On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 9:16 PM, Michael Kraus
<n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>wrote:
>
> Vans color match (light grey powdercoat) is a srandard color from PPG -
> DCC92783 Pearl Gray
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 20, 2009, at 8:59 PM, "emrath" <emrath@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Listers,
>> Does anyone have a spray can or two of Cardinal A-4108-GR230 the don't
>> need
>> and would be interested in selling? It appears I'd have to purchase 12
>> cans from Cardinal which is way more than I need. The touch-up from Van's
>> is
>> not sufficient for my needs. Alternatively, does anyone know of another
>> paint source that might be a close match to the color?
>>
>> Marty in Nashville TN
>> RV-6A about done painting.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Marty Santic ----- W9EAA
My RV-12 (Light Sport Aircraft) Build Log -
http://www.martysrv12.blogspot.com/
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Painting the Baffling... |
Matt,
I paid $60 and had my baffling powder coated black.? I had the shop just add my
parts to another job they were doing to keep the costs down.? Five years later
and no cracks and?no scratches.? The powder coating really looks good on those
parts.? I don't think the heat treat is a big concern.
Rick Grenwis
RV-6A Denver, CO
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Painting The Baffling... |
Matt,
There are some low e (low energy) powders on the market that will cure at
less than 300 deg F. So at these temps is should not artificially age your
aluminum. The powder manufactures will recommend you not exceed these temps
in the field though. I have powdered many parts that exceed these temps and
never had any issues except exhaust systems and even with them only the 1st
couple of inches fail. If you have any other questions about powdercaoting I
will do my best to answer. I have been powdercoating for about 10 years
professionally.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 11:02 PM
rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Painting The Baffling...
Dear Listers,
I had been planning on black anodizing the various engine baffling pieces in
keeping with my black-n-chrome theme under the hood. But I'm noticing that
the pieces are getting pretty scratched up during all of this extra fitting
that's necessary for the IO-390. Since the pieces can't be run through a
surfacer first because of the bends, I'm rethinking how good anodizing is
really going to look.
I know we're not suppose to power coat the 2024-T3 because the curing heat
required can un-T3 the 2024, but does it really matter for the baffling?
Its not really structural, per say. And if power coating is alright, what
effects will the engine compartment heat have on the power coating? There's
probably a high-temp power coat, but it would likely require a higher curing
temp, and that get's us back to the first sentence of this paragraph...
Power coating the baffling would definitely look pretty cool.
Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would look super cool. Can
you chrome 2024-T3? How much would that cost compared to power coating?
Am I fussing too much under the hood? ;-)
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
FWF Baffling, Intake, and Governor...
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test |
I have cut out the bottom of the cooling exit ramp, Installed a hinge at
forward edge and filled in the sides of the ramp to form a cowl flap. It
helped a little but not the final solution. Also tried the VGs on trailing
edge of cooling exit but saw very little effect.
Question for you guys who installed the louvers. Did you install them on
the bottom of the cooling exit ramp or on either side of it?
Tracy Crook
On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 11:14 PM, Hadley Heinrichs <rvhad@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Tracy,
>
> you might want to use a cowl flap to pull more air out...look on the EGG
> site for specs. the volume of air increased by 80%, brought the numbers
> down if i recall properly.
>
> cheers,
>
> Had
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Tracy Crook <tracy@rotaryaviation.com>
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 16, 2009 3:41:41 PM
> *Subject:* RV-List: Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test
>
> Thanks for all the encouragement guys. Here's an update on the testing.
>
> Been thinking over what to do about the cooling on the 20B rotary powered
> RV-8. The indications are that I'm getting too much pressure under the cowl
> but that was only a guess. Without doing a number of time consuming
> pressure surveys or chopping up the cowl there was no way to be sure it was
> not something else like too small oil cooler and radiator, inlet diffusers
> not working as well as I had hoped, inlet shape not right (they had very
> sharp lips which might be causing separation) or some other unknown.
>
> Time is limited before I leave on vacation and I really needed to know the
> answer before I do. So, last night I made the decision to fly the -8 one
> more time - This time Without the cowl on. Wish there was someone around to
> get a pix, must have looked pretty strange.
>
> Secured anything that might get blown loose with tie wraps and did the
> deed. Whoo Hoo! Oil temp 147, coolant temp 161. This on a hot day (92 deg
> OAT). With the cowl on, they never went below 200 and hovered around 210
> most of the time at low throttle. They went up rapidly with more throttle.
>
> Obvious conclusion is that I need a better path for the air to leave the
> cowl. Have read with interest the results of some Lycoming RVs with high
> oil temps that fixed the problem with louvers (on bottom?) of cowl. Some
> say they worked great, others had less than good results so not sure that is
> the answer but ordered a set if nothing else occurs to me.
>
> The airplane felt a little draggier , down about 15 MPH at the low
> throttle setting I used for test so this should be a worst case test. The
> wheel pants and main gear intersection fairings are also off. Did some
> brief full throttle climbs and temps stayed under control, oil never
> exceeding 160 F. Climb is awesome with a deck angle so high it was
> uncomfortable. Was looking hard at temps so did not note the ROC but it was
> more than anything else I've flown. My 13B powered RV-4 goes 2500 FPM on a
> standard day.
>
> Tracy Crook
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test |
Tracy, I installed my cooling louvers on each side of the exit ramp.
Walt Shipley
From: "Tracy Crook" <tracy@rotaryaviation.com>
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 1:01:56 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test
I have cut out the bottom of the cooling exit ramp, Installed a hinge at fo
rward edge and filled in the sides of the ramp to form a cowl flap.=C2- I
t helped a little but not the final solution.=C2- Also tried the VGs on t
railing edge of cooling exit but saw very little effect.
Question for you guys who installed the louvers.=C2- Did you install them
on the bottom of the cooling exit ramp or on either side of it?=C2-
Tracy Crook
On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 11:14 PM, Hadley Heinrichs < rvhad@yahoo.com > wrot
e:
Tracy,
you might want to use a cowl flap to pull more air out...look on the EGG si
te for specs.=C2- the volume of air increased by 80%, brought the numbers
down if i recall properly.
cheers,
Had
From: Tracy Crook < tracy@rotaryaviation.com >
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 3:41:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test
Thanks for all the encouragement guys. Here's an update on the testing.
Been thinking over what to do about the cooling on the 20B rotary powered R
V-8.=C2- The indications are that I'm getting too much pressure under the
cowl but that was only a guess.=C2- Without doing a number of time consu
ming pressure surveys or chopping up the cowl there was no way to be sure i
t was not something else like too small oil cooler and radiator,=C2- inle
t diffusers not working as well as I had hoped, inlet shape not right (they
had very sharp lips which might be causing separation) or some other unkno
wn.
Time is limited before I leave on vacation and I really needed to know the
answer before I do.=C2- So, last night I made the decision to fly the -8
one more time - This time Without the cowl on.=C2- Wish there was someone
around to get a pix, must have looked pretty strange.
=C2-Secured anything that might get blown loose with tie wraps and did th
e deed.=C2- Whoo Hoo! Oil temp 147, coolant temp 161.=C2- This on a hot
day (92 deg OAT). With the cowl on, they never went below 200 and hovered
around 210 most of the time at low throttle. They went up rapidly with more
throttle.
=C2-=C2- Obvious conclusion is that I need a better path for the air to
leave the cowl.=C2-=C2- Have read with interest the results of some Ly
coming RVs with high oil temps that fixed the problem with louvers (on bott
om?) of cowl.=C2- Some say they worked great, others had less than good r
esults so not sure that is the answer but ordered a set if nothing else occ
urs to me.
The airplane felt a little draggier ,=C2- down about 15 MPH at the low th
rottle setting I used for test so this should be a worst case test.=C2- T
he wheel pants and main gear intersection fairings are also off.=C2-=C2
- Did some brief full throttle climbs and temps stayed under control, oil
never exceeding 160 F.=C2- Climb is awesome with a deck angle so high it
was uncomfortable.=C2- Was looking hard at temps so did not note the ROC
but it was more than anything else I've flown.=C2- My 13B powered=C2-
RV-4 goes 2500 FPM on a standard day.
Tracy Crook
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List tp://forums.matroni
cs.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fwd: Engine Hesitation - Case Closed |
Gang,=C2- I got this answer back from Gus Funnell at Van's regarding my e
ngine hesitation problem. This, in
addition to my response from Don Rivera at Airflow, makes me believe this i
s a common occurrence. I don't
plan on pursuing it further....
Walt Shipley
----- Forwarded Message -----
From: "Gus Funnell" <gusf@vansaircraft.com>
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 1:13:09 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: Engine Hesitation
Erratic idle is common with FI engines in RVs on hot days. A pump shroud
may help, but not much, as there is little airflow through the cowl at taxi
speeds to cool down a heat soaked engine/pump.
Vans
On 21 Sep 2009 at 15:18, rveighta@comcast.net wrote:
> Hi, I have an IO-360 B4A in my RV-8A that exhibits "stumbling" at
> idle when I'm taxiing in from a
> flight on a warm day. I'm guessing
> this is caused by fuel vaporization somewhere in the fuel system.
>
> I have already contacted Don Rivera at Airflow Performance and
> obtained a set of four nozzles
> that have a smaller orifice than
> standard, with the theory that the increased pressure would prevent
> the stumbling or at least
> improve engine smoothness.Since
> installation of the new nozzles, the engine does run smoother, but
> the occasional stumble is still
> there.
>
> My question is this - is this pretty normal for fuel injected RV'S?
> Also, is the cooling shroud you
> sell for the fuel pump effective in
> eliminating the engine stumbling ?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Walt Shipley RV-8A 80877
> Chuckey, TN
>
>
>
>
****E-MAIL PRIVILEGED INFORMATION****
(applicable to any email sent from Van's Aircraft, Inc.
or any employee of Van's Aircraft, Inc.)
This email message is for the sole use of the
intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential
and privileged information. Any unauthorized
review, use, disclosure or distribution is
prohibited. =C2-If you are not the intended
recipient, please contact the sender by reply
email and destroy all copies of the original
message. =C2-If you are the intended recipient,
please be advised that the content of this message
is subject to access, review and disclosure by the
sender's Email System Administrator.
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg fairing scribe lines |
The answer on the scribe lines on gear leg fairings comes from Ken Scott at Van's:
Some fairings have them, some don't. I think it depends on the condition of the
mold when they are laid up. It really doesn't make much difference, as it turns
out. Trim the fairing to fit between the fuse and the wheel pant. As long
as it's symmetrical between sides, it will work.
The inter. fairings can cover whatever space you leave.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264184#264184
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I have designed and built air control louvers that attach to the air
exit side of the oil cooler. it requires about 1.5" of clearance to
install. is designed to be actuated via a vernier push/pull control. I
am no longer working on an RV, but these louvers have flown (with a
337 field approval) on a C17s and a Mooney, both with Lyc. O-360
power. If you are interested in info including performance info &
pics, email me off list. jcveld@mac.com
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Front Mounted Governor vs. Rear Mounted Governor... |
Great pictures, Bill; thank you!
I just ordered a PCU5000 with the extension arm and the clockwise rotation (clockwise
to increase pitch).
What length control cable did you use?
If you had made your bracket stick out a little farther, could you have gotten
away with not using the extra bushing on the control arm?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Engine Baffling & Governor Installation...
--------
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264215#264215
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|