Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:24 AM - Hartzell BA Prop vs. Composite Prop (Robin Marks)
2. 11:26 AM - Re: Hartzell BA Prop vs. Composite Prop (RobHickman@aol.com)
3. 06:55 PM - Side Cowl Pin Size... (Matt Dralle)
4. 11:12 PM - Re: Side Cowl Pin Size... (David Cudney)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Hartzell BA Prop vs. Composite Prop |
It's time to drop the dollars on a prop for my 8A project. Has anyone
seen a real performance comparison between the two blade Hartzell
Blended Airfoil prop and the two blade Hartzell Composite Prop? (Both
74").
Thanks,
Robin
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell BA Prop vs. Composite Prop |
After doing multiple runs on multiple days in my RV-4 with the new Hartzel
l
composite two blade propeller I have found the following:
RV-4
180HP IO-360 with one PMAG
Pilot Only
Altitude 5,000 ft
2500 RPM
Full throttle 24.9=9D Manifold
50 deg ROP
Fuel flow 11.3 GPH
I used the autopilot to fly a ground track N, E, S, W for 2 to 3 minutes
per leg and then put the data in the NTPS spread sheet to calculate the
TAS.
Result = 178.8 KTS
I have replaced the composite prop with a new Hartzell D-Twist Scimitar
metal prop and should have a comparison next week.
Just for fun I decided to do the same test in my RV-10 with the Hartzell
three blade composite prop. I only made one flight to test the numbers an
d
will repeat it a number of times to verify the results.
RV-10
IO-540 with one Light Speed Ignition
Pilot Only
Altitude 5,000 ft
2500 RPM
Full throttle 25.2=9D Manifold
Result = 176.3 KTS
Rob Hickman
N401RH RV-4 180HP
N402RH RV-10 260HP
Message 3
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| Subject: | Side Cowl Pin Size... |
Dear Listers,
I'm happy to report that the cowling on the 'ol RV-8 is complete and came out very
nice. I was able to get the seams all around very nice and tight.
Here's my question. On the bottom cowl firewall pins and the top cowl firewall
pins, the plans call out undersized pins. These go in nicely and I've got no
complaints.
However, on the side pins that join the top and bottom cowling pieces, the plans
call out an AN257-P3 hinge and don't mention using an undersized pin. I am
able to get the side pins in and out with a drill but its a lot of work, especially
going in, and it just seems like this is going to wear out the hinges after
a while.
In the kit, I noticed that Van's shipped two different types of hinges in the three-foot
lengths required for the cowling sides. There are two, 3' long AN257-P3
pieces and two, 3' long <other kind of hinge> that seems to be steel instead
of aluminium like the AN257-P3. The pin inside of these steel hinges is about
2/3 the size of the pin in the AN257-P3 hinges. So, my logical thinking
lead me to think that you're suppose just use the pins from the steel hinges on
the sides for easier pin insertion/extraction. Am I reading this right? Or
is it just a coincidence that they sent the steel hinges? I don't know what
else to do with them.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
Snorkel Intake Installation & Governor Recabling (1700 hours and counting)...
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Side Cowl Pin Size... |
Matt:
I used the regular hinge pins (not undersized). If you taper them on
the tips and dampen a rag slightly with ps 2 oil and then wipe the
hinge pin, it will be easier to push into place. It gets easier after
a few hours of flight. The first few times it works better with two
people -- one pushing and the other tapping along the path of the pin
with the heal of his hand as the pin passes through.
Good luck
dave@RAL 125 hrs 7A
On Oct 2, 2009, at 6:54 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I'm happy to report that the cowling on the 'ol RV-8 is complete and
> came out very nice. I was able to get the seams all around very
> nice and tight.
>
> Here's my question. On the bottom cowl firewall pins and the top
> cowl firewall pins, the plans call out undersized pins. These go in
> nicely and I've got no complaints.
>
> However, on the side pins that join the top and bottom cowling
> pieces, the plans call out an AN257-P3 hinge and don't mention using
> an undersized pin. I am able to get the side pins in and out with a
> drill but its a lot of work, especially going in, and it just seems
> like this is going to wear out the hinges after a while.
>
> In the kit, I noticed that Van's shipped two different types of
> hinges in the three-foot lengths required for the cowling sides.
> There are two, 3' long AN257-P3 pieces and two, 3' long <other kind
> of hinge> that seems to be steel instead of aluminium like the AN257-
> P3. The pin inside of these steel hinges is about 2/3 the size of
> the pin in the AN257-P3 hinges. So, my logical thinking lead me to
> think that you're suppose just use the pins from the steel hinges on
> the sides for easier pin insertion/extraction. Am I reading this
> right? Or is it just a coincidence that they sent the steel
> hinges? I don't know what else to do with them.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
> Snorkel Intake Installation & Governor Recabling (1700 hours and
> counting)...
> <2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling Fitting And Installation Complete
> (8).jpg><2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling Fitting And Installation
> Complete (9).jpg><2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling Fitting And
> Installation Complete (11).jpg><2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling Fitting
> And Installation Complete (1).jpg><2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling
> Fitting And Installation Complete (2).jpg>
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