Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:27 AM - Re: Lycoming fuel pump (Jim)
2. 08:10 AM - Re: Lycoming fuel pump (Paul Rice)
3. 02:25 PM - RV-4 Engine Fuel Pump Drain (Bruce B. Bell)
4. 02:42 PM - Re: RV-4 Engine Fuel Pump Drain (Sam Buchanan)
5. 03:01 PM - Re: RV-4 Engine Fuel Pump Drain (Bruce B. Bell)
6. 07:29 PM - RV-7 O-360 cowling for sale or trade for IO-360 cowling (Marty Helller)
7. 11:10 PM - air in lines. (thomas sargent)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Lycoming fuel pump |
Hi Tom
The third fitting is meant to be an overflow outlet.
Should the pump fail and begin leaking internally the leaking fuel should
exit the pump through the required fitting and its attached hose instead
of leaking into the crank case. The vent exit hose/tube should be mounted
on the bottom of the firewall well outboard of the exhaust outlet area. It
should exit the fuel out into the slipstream.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 11:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming fuel pump
Can some one refresh my memory about the 3rd fitting on my fuel pump.
It's for some sort of overflow as I recall. How is this usually handled?
--
Tom Sargent
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Message 2
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Subject: | Lycoming fuel pump |
Hey Tom=2C
If I understand what you are talking about=2C it is just and vent/overflow
line that needs to be ducted back to the firewall and then out the bottom o
f the aircraft with a small diameter tube. Keep it away from the exhaust p
ipes. It should be on your plans. I think it is there to vent fuel overbo
ard if the diaphragms in the pump fail.
Paul
RV8
Flying Siren
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming fuel pump
From: sarg314@gmail.com
Can some one refresh my memory about the 3rd fitting on my fuel pump. It's
for some sort of overflow as I recall. How is this usually handled?
--
Tom Sargent
Message 3
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Subject: | RV-4 Engine Fuel Pump Drain |
The copper line on the fuel pump overflow plug came loose at the solder
joint. No blame my fault! But has anyone come up with another idea that
works on the RV-4 fuel pump. As you know it is very close to the left foot
well. I used AN fittings and AL line to run the line out the bottom of the
cowl. Plastic line would have been more flexible.
Bruce Bell
RV-4 N23BB 85 hours!
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: RV-4 Engine Fuel Pump Drain |
Bruce B. Bell wrote:
>
> The copper line on the fuel pump overflow plug came loose at the solder
> joint. No blame my fault! But has anyone come up with another idea that
> works on the RV-4 fuel pump. As you know it is very close to the left
> foot well. I used AN fittings and AL line to run the line out the bottom
> of the cowl. Plastic line would have been more flexible.
> Bruce Bell
> RV-4 N23BB 85 hours!
>
The RV-6 doesn't the clearance problem of the -4, but I used a 90 degree
NPT fitting with a barb on the end of it (auto parts store) to attach a
length of automotive fuel hose.
Sam Buchanan
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: RV-4 Engine Fuel Pump Drain |
Thanks Sam! BBB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Engine Fuel Pump Drain
>
> Bruce B. Bell wrote:
>> <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>> The copper line on the fuel pump overflow plug came loose at the solder
>> joint. No blame my fault! But has anyone come up with another idea that
>> works on the RV-4 fuel pump. As you know it is very close to the left
>> foot well. I used AN fittings and AL line to run the line out the bottom
>> of the cowl. Plastic line would have been more flexible.
>> Bruce Bell
>> RV-4 N23BB 85 hours!
>>
>
> The RV-6 doesn't the clearance problem of the -4, but I used a 90 degree
> NPT fitting with a barb on the end of it (auto parts store) to attach a
> length of automotive fuel hose.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | RV-7 O-360 cowling for sale or trade for IO-360 cowling |
Do not archive
My RV-7 finishing kit was originally ordered with the intent of a Lycoming
0-360. I've since installed an IO-360 and don't need the snout. Will make
a good deal for the cowling=2C airbox and the carburator breathing tube if
anyone is thinking about buying their firewall forward kit.
I know my fiberglass work=2C a 'snout-endectomy' isn't a viable option=3B a
nd outside Vans' return policy.
Contact off line at marty_away@hotmail.com or 703-732-3264
Marty Heller
Alexandria=2C VA
RV-7=2C Battling with the baffling baffles.....
> From: brucebell74@sbcglobal.net
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Engine Fuel Pump Drain
> Date: Thu=2C 15 Oct 2009 16:56:45 -0500
>
>
>
> Thanks Sam! BBB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday=2C October 15=2C 2009 4:39 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Engine Fuel Pump Drain
>
>
> >
> > Bruce B. Bell wrote:
> >> <brucebell74@sbcglobal.net>
> >>
> >> The copper line on the fuel pump overflow plug came loose at the solde
r
> >> joint. No blame my fault! But has anyone come up with another idea tha
t
> >> works on the RV-4 fuel pump. As you know it is very close to the left
> >> foot well. I used AN fittings and AL line to run the line out the bott
om
> >> of the cowl. Plastic line would have been more flexible.
> >> Bruce Bell
> >> RV-4 N23BB 85 hours!
> >>
> >
> > The RV-6 doesn't the clearance problem of the -4=2C but I used a 90 deg
ree
> > NPT fitting with a barb on the end of it (auto parts store) to attach a
> > length of automotive fuel hose.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
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>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft=92s powerful SPAM protection.
Message 7
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I'll be starting my engine for the first time pretty soon. I was wondering
if is necessary to do anything to get the air out of the hoses that carry
fuel and oil to the fuel and oil pressure transducers.
--
Tom Sargent
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