Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:56 AM - fuel line routing (thomas sargent)
2. 08:19 AM - Re: fuel line routing (Ralph E. Capen)
3. 09:32 AM - Re: fuel line routing (Matt Dralle)
4. 10:19 AM - Re: fuel line routing (Bret Smith)
5. 03:30 PM - Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... (Matt Dralle)
6. 05:48 PM - Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... (Charlie England)
7. 06:10 PM - Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... (Dale Walter)
8. 07:18 PM - Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... (Bill Schlatterer)
9. 08:33 PM - Invitation! Lower Slobovia Garden Club's Pumpkin Drop, 2009 (Charlie England)
10. 09:00 PM - Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... (Matt Dralle)
11. 10:03 PM - Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... (Skylor Piper)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | fuel line routing |
I planned a route for the fire-sleeved fuel line to my AFP divider on top of
the engine, which penetrates the cooling baffle through a large grommet.
I'm wondering now if the grommet can take the high temperatures in there in
the 10 minutes after engine shutdown.
I note that when Bart L. delivered the engine to me he had the fuel line
penetrating the intercylinder baffle through a grommet (he didn't know I was
going to use a crossover exhaust, so I had to re-plumb it to keep it away
from the exhaust) so I guess that's where I got the idea. But now I'm
wondering....
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: fuel line routing |
I've done this with my 6A and SJ cowl/plenum and have two of these grommets.
Pictures seperately - and to others that ask for them......
-----Original Message-----
>From: thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com>
>Sent: Oct 24, 2009 10:54 AM
>To: rv-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: fuel line routing
>
>I planned a route for the fire-sleeved fuel line to my AFP divider on top of
>the engine, which penetrates the cooling baffle through a large grommet.
>I'm wondering now if the grommet can take the high temperatures in there in
>the 10 minutes after engine shutdown.
>
>I note that when Bart L. delivered the engine to me he had the fuel line
>penetrating the intercylinder baffle through a grommet (he didn't know I was
>going to use a crossover exhaust, so I had to re-plumb it to keep it away
>from the exhaust) so I guess that's where I got the idea. But now I'm
>wondering....
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: fuel line routing |
At 07:54 AM 10/24/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>I planned a route for the fire-sleeved fuel line to my AFP divider on top
of the engine, which penetrates the cooling baffle through a large
grommet.=C2 I'm wondering now if the grommet can take the high
temperatures in there in the 10 minutes after engine shutdown.
>
>I note that when Bart L. delivered the engine to me he had the fuel line
penetrating the intercylinder baffle through a grommet (he didn't know I
was going to use a crossover exhaust, so I had to re-plumb it to keep it
away from the exhaust) so I guess that's where I got the idea.=C2 But now
I'm wondering....
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
Hi Tom,
Attached are a couple of pictures of how I routed mine. I've got the
4-into-4 exhaust from Vetterman. The fuel from the TB to the distributor
doesn't even come close to the exhaust. I would assume that the grommet
comes with the Lycoming inter-baffle kit and is designed to handle the
temps in that region. If you hear otherwise from Bart or some other
authoritative source, be sure to post it to the List.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Final Finishing Touches To FWF...
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | fuel line routing |
I wondered the same thing but was told the grommet I received from AFP was a high-temp
grommet designed for these high temps. 100+ hrs so far and no problems
yet.
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: fuel line routing
I've done this with my 6A and SJ cowl/plenum and have two of these grommets.
Pictures seperately - and to others that ask for them......
-----Original Message-----
>From: thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com>
>Sent: Oct 24, 2009 10:54 AM
>To: rv-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: fuel line routing
>
>I planned a route for the fire-sleeved fuel line to my AFP divider on top of
>the engine, which penetrates the cooling baffle through a large grommet.
>I'm wondering now if the grommet can take the high temperatures in there in
>the 10 minutes after engine shutdown.
>
>I note that when Bart L. delivered the engine to me he had the fuel line
>penetrating the intercylinder baffle through a grommet (he didn't know I was
>going to use a crossover exhaust, so I had to re-plumb it to keep it away
>from the exhaust) so I guess that's where I got the idea. But now I'm
>wondering....
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
At 07:56 PM 10/18/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>
>Greetings Listers,
>
>I'm looking over this cooling blast tube kit from Van's (DUCT CBT-5/8) and deciding
what needs cooling and what doesn't. I'm guessing the Slick Mags do. The
directions are pretty clear on how to mount the tube in the baffle, but don't
mention at all where to shoot the air in around the mag. Is just in the general
vacineity good enough, or is there a little hole in the mag that wants fresh
air?
>
>I've also got the PlanePower 60amp alternator that Van's sells. The instruction
booklet that comes with it brags about how, because of its design, it runs
much cooler that traditional automobile conversions do. Okay, great. But does
that mean that it still needs a blast tube off the front baffle for cooling?
If so, same question on the mags. Where's a good place to stick the cool air
on the alternator?
>
>Thanks in advance for the feedback,
>
>Matt Dralle
I never got any responses to this post, so I forged ahead. The tubes came out
very nice. I ran a tube to the top of each mag about 1" above the surface.
I opted to run a duct to the back of the primary 60a alternator. I opted *not*
to run a duct to the 20a secondary alternator figuring that it would be off most
of the time and didn't warrant the reduction in baffle chamber pressure by
drilling yet another hole.
I did opt to run a duct to the GPS antenna enclosure. This seems like an area
that will get very hot on a hot day, and the sensitive electronics will probably
prefer to be cooled. There are a couple of small holes in the back of the
enclosure to allow the air to escape. Should provide plenty of cooling for the
antennas.
Attached are a few pictures for those that might be interested.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Matt Dralle wrote:
> At 07:56 PM 10/18/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>
>>
>> Greetings Listers,
>>
>> I'm looking over this cooling blast tube kit from Van's (DUCT CBT-5/8) and deciding
what needs cooling and what doesn't. I'm guessing the Slick Mags do.
The directions are pretty clear on how to mount the tube in the baffle, but don't
mention at all where to shoot the air in around the mag. Is just in the
general vacineity good enough, or is there a little hole in the mag that wants
fresh air?
>>
>> I've also got the PlanePower 60amp alternator that Van's sells. The instruction
booklet that comes with it brags about how, because of its design, it runs
much cooler that traditional automobile conversions do. Okay, great. But does
that mean that it still needs a blast tube off the front baffle for cooling?
If so, same question on the mags. Where's a good place to stick the cool
air on the alternator?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for the feedback,
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>>
>
>
> I never got any responses to this post, so I forged ahead. The tubes came out
very nice. I ran a tube to the top of each mag about 1" above the surface.
>
> I opted to run a duct to the back of the primary 60a alternator. I opted *not*
to run a duct to the 20a secondary alternator figuring that it would be off
most of the time and didn't warrant the reduction in baffle chamber pressure
by drilling yet another hole.
>
> I did opt to run a duct to the GPS antenna enclosure. This seems like an area
that will get very hot on a hot day, and the sensitive electronics will probably
prefer to be cooled. There are a couple of small holes in the back of the
enclosure to allow the air to escape. Should provide plenty of cooling for
the antennas.
>
> Attached are a few pictures for those that might be interested.
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>
Hi Matt,
Sorry that you didn't get a response earlier. I can't offer much insight
on the mags, but the critical stuff in an alternator is typically under
the sheet metal on the back, or just inside the case on the back. Having
said that, I would determine which way the internal fan is trying to
move air through the alternator, & supply the cool air to assist the
flow, instead of fighting it. The quick&dirty way to check that is to
use a drill to spin up the alternator in the correct rotation & feel for
the air flow.
Charlie
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Hi Matt,
Beautiful work and pictures as always. Regarding the antennas: that area
during flight will not exceed 120 F IMHO. I believe that based on an extra
digital temp probe I move around my engine compartment for testing of
different areas. The tubes will work against you at shut down. Do you have
the opportunity to get an extra temperature probe stuck in there? You seem
like the kind of guy that would enjoy the extra data collection. And I know
you have lots of electronics aboard!
And regarding Alternator temps, my 70 amp never went above 160 F without
cooling tube, although I normally have one. And that is the peak after shut
down, peak in flight was 135 F without and 125 F with cooling tube.
Dale
RV6a
1245 hrs, O-360 A1A, dual electronic ignition, dual electric. GRT EFIS S200
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes...
At 07:56 PM 10/18/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>
>Greetings Listers,
>
>I'm looking over this cooling blast tube kit from Van's (DUCT CBT-5/8) and
deciding what needs cooling and what doesn't. I'm guessing the Slick Mags
do. The directions are pretty clear on how to mount the tube in the baffle,
but don't mention at all where to shoot the air in around the mag. Is just
in the general vacineity good enough, or is there a little hole in the mag
that wants fresh air?
>
>I've also got the PlanePower 60amp alternator that Van's sells. The
instruction booklet that comes with it brags about how, because of its
design, it runs much cooler that traditional automobile conversions do.
Okay, great. But does that mean that it still needs a blast tube off the
front baffle for cooling? If so, same question on the mags. Where's a good
place to stick the cool air on the alternator?
>
>Thanks in advance for the feedback,
>
>Matt Dralle
I never got any responses to this post, so I forged ahead. The tubes came
out very nice. I ran a tube to the top of each mag about 1" above the
surface.
I opted to run a duct to the back of the primary 60a alternator. I opted
*not* to run a duct to the 20a secondary alternator figuring that it would
be off most of the time and didn't warrant the reduction in baffle chamber
pressure by drilling yet another hole.
I did opt to run a duct to the GPS antenna enclosure. This seems like an
area that will get very hot on a hot day, and the sensitive electronics will
probably prefer to be cooled. There are a couple of small holes in the back
of the enclosure to allow the air to escape. Should provide plenty of
cooling for the antennas.
Attached are a few pictures for those that might be interested.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Matt, do you think water through the duct will hurt anything? Note sure you
will get a lot of water but you will get some pretty wet air if you fly in
the rain.
Just wondering?
Bill S
7a finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes...
At 07:56 PM 10/18/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>
>Greetings Listers,
>
>I'm looking over this cooling blast tube kit from Van's (DUCT CBT-5/8) and
deciding what needs cooling and what doesn't. I'm guessing the Slick Mags
do. The directions are pretty clear on how to mount the tube in the baffle,
but don't mention at all where to shoot the air in around the mag. Is just
in the general vacineity good enough, or is there a little hole in the mag
that wants fresh air?
>
>I've also got the PlanePower 60amp alternator that Van's sells. The
instruction booklet that comes with it brags about how, because of its
design, it runs much cooler that traditional automobile conversions do.
Okay, great. But does that mean that it still needs a blast tube off the
front baffle for cooling? If so, same question on the mags. Where's a good
place to stick the cool air on the alternator?
>
>Thanks in advance for the feedback,
>
>Matt Dralle
I never got any responses to this post, so I forged ahead. The tubes came
out very nice. I ran a tube to the top of each mag about 1" above the
surface.
I opted to run a duct to the back of the primary 60a alternator. I opted
*not* to run a duct to the 20a secondary alternator figuring that it would
be off most of the time and didn't warrant the reduction in baffle chamber
pressure by drilling yet another hole.
I did opt to run a duct to the GPS antenna enclosure. This seems like an
area that will get very hot on a hot day, and the sensitive electronics will
probably prefer to be cooled. There are a couple of small holes in the back
of the enclosure to allow the air to escape. Should provide plenty of
cooling for the antennas.
Attached are a few pictures for those that might be interested.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Invitation! Lower Slobovia Garden Club's Pumpkin Drop, 2009 |
You're cordially invited to the "Lower Slobovia Garden Club" 3rd annual
Pumpkin Drop, starting at 11:00 AM on Saturday, November 7, 2009. Lunch
will be served at noon, and pumpkin drop demos begin around 2:00 PM.
Contact info for driving directions is on the attached flyer; nav info is at
http://www.airnav.com/airport/MS71
Y'all come!
Charlie & Tupper, for the Lower Slobovia Garden Club members
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
At 07:18 PM 10/24/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>Matt, do you think water through the duct will hurt anything? Note sure you
>will get a lot of water but you will get some pretty wet air if you fly in
>the rain.
>
>Just wondering?
>
>Bill S
>7a finishing
Hi Bill,
Well, all five of the GPS antennas are meant to be mounted on the exterior of a
vehicle. This would put then in the normal rain and weather directly. Seems
that a little moist air would probably be alright. I'm a little concerned about
the area not drying out and causing corrosion or rust. But it seems like
the high temps should dry it out pretty quickly.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82882 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Finishing Up FWF...
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Matt,
Just commenting on the blast tubes to your antenna tray:- It appears that
you intend for the tray to screw to the cowling when it's in place, or tha
t you intend to fix a cover to the top of the tray.- In either case, the
tray will be a dead space without an area for the incoming air from the bla
st tubes to exit.- In this case, the blast tube won't provide any cooling
air flow, just positive ram air pressure during flight.- As others have
pointed out, the tube may just create a conduit for heat soak to warm the a
ntennas after a hot shut down.- I would probably leave those tube off of
the antenna tray.
Skylor
RV-8 Under Construction
(for way too long!)
--- On Sat, 10/24/09, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes...
At 07:56 PM 10/18/2009- Sunday, you wrote:
>
>Greetings Listers,
>
>I'm looking over this cooling blast tube kit from Van's (DUCT CBT-5/8) and
deciding what needs cooling and what doesn't.- I'm guessing the Slick Ma
gs do.- The directions are pretty clear on how to mount the tube in the b
affle, but don't mention at all where to shoot the air in around the mag.
- Is just in the general vacineity good enough, or is there a little hole
in the mag that wants fresh air?
>
>I've also got the PlanePower 60amp alternator that Van's sells.- The ins
truction booklet that comes with it brags about how, because of its design,
it runs much cooler that traditional automobile conversions do.- Okay, g
reat.- But does that mean that it still needs a blast tube off the front
baffle for cooling?- If so, same question on the mags.- Where's a good
place to stick the cool air on the alternator?
>
>Thanks in advance for the feedback,
>
>Matt Dralle
I never got any responses to this post, so I forged ahead.- The tubes cam
e out very nice.- I ran a tube to the top of each mag about 1" above the
surface.
-
I opted to run a duct to the back of the primary 60a alternator.- I opted
*not* to run a duct to the 20a secondary alternator figuring that it would
be off most of the time and didn't warrant the reduction in baffle chamber
pressure by drilling yet another hole.
I did opt to run a duct to the GPS antenna enclosure.- This seems like an
area that will get very hot on a hot day, and the sensitive electronics wi
ll probably prefer to be cooled.- There are a couple of small holes in th
e back of the enclosure to allow the air to escape.- Should provide plent
y of cooling for the antennas.
Attached are a few pictures for those that might be interested.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
=0A=0A=0A
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|