Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:31 AM - Vernatherm stuck open? (Ralph E. Capen)
2. 08:56 AM - Re: Vernatherm stuck open? (Kelly McMullen)
3. 11:16 AM - Re: Wing Cart (Richard Wagoner)
4. 02:41 PM - Wing Cart (Ian)
5. 03:04 PM - Re: Oregon Innovations WIg Wag vs Duckworks HID (TbirdRV)
6. 05:30 PM - Re: Flop Tubes 4-Sale (Jason Edwards)
7. 07:47 PM - Re: Wing Cart (Marty Helller)
8. 08:38 PM - Re: Mystery Washer (emrath)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Vernatherm stuck open? |
Folks,
I think my Vernatherm is stuck in the open position allowing oil to always flow
through the oil cooler.
Here's the basis for my thinking:
In October during some of my flights, I was seeing OAT's of 35 and 40 with corresponding
OilT's of 174 and 179.
In November during one flight I had OAT of 62 and OilT of 177 - I stopped and had
lunch - during the flight home, I had OAT of 65 and OilT of 146. Yes plenty
of time for it to have warmed up...and no, I didn't change anything on the airplane
during lunch.
All flights after that one have had OAT's in the 50's and 60's with OilT's not
breaking 140.
Your thoughts please... How do I unstick the Vernatherm? Is it possible that during
lunch that day, my rings seated and my engine finished its break-in process?
Thanks,
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 46.3 hrs - happy with the CHT's, found something else buggin'
me
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Vernatherm stuck open? |
The Vernatherm doesn't work that way. It has an expanding salt/wax
inside and expands with temperature until it closes the bypass opening.
There are published dimensions, so you can remove the vernatherm,
measure its length and see whether it is at the expanded dimension or
cold dimension. You also could just create a cover for your oil cooler
with say 50% as big an opening as the cooler itself, and see if it makes
a difference, watching to see oil doesn't get too hot.
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> I think my Vernatherm is stuck in the open position allowing oil to always flow
through the oil cooler.
>
> Here's the basis for my thinking:
>
> In October during some of my flights, I was seeing OAT's of 35 and 40 with corresponding
OilT's of 174 and 179.
>
> In November during one flight I had OAT of 62 and OilT of 177 - I stopped and
had lunch - during the flight home, I had OAT of 65 and OilT of 146. Yes plenty
of time for it to have warmed up...and no, I didn't change anything on the
airplane during lunch.
>
> All flights after that one have had OAT's in the 50's and 60's with OilT's not
breaking 140.
>
> Your thoughts please... How do I unstick the Vernatherm? Is it possible that
during lunch that day, my rings seated and my engine finished its break-in process?
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph
> RV6A N822AR @ N06 46.3 hrs - happy with the CHT's, found something else buggin'
me
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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Thanks Nelson & Greg!
Rick
________________________________
Message 4
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In addition to what David Nelson said about a wing cart:
- Make sure your castering wheels are well attached to a robust
structure. Mine were always falling off/breaking the wood because there
is a lot of force acting through them.
- I used ex-furniture casters which worked fine in the garage, but not
on the more uneven driveway.
- Make one end the shape of the wing rib and the other end flat, to
support the main spar as it exits the wing.
- Decide how you want the wings facing before you cut the shapes. Least
space would be lower surfaces facing each other, but facing outwards
lets you work through the access panels in the wings.
- You don't actually need an outer frame if you use a relatively strong
spine, like a 2X4 attached to a 2X6 but make it shorter than the
distance from the landing lights to the inner wing.
- I found foam strips, stapled in place around the curvature of the wing
slot helped protect the wings.
Best of luck,
Ian Brown, Bromont, Quebec, RV-9A
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Oregon Innovations WIg Wag vs Duckworks HID |
I have been using an electronic wig-wag unit made by Sound Off Signal, model number
'ETHFSS-SP' and it works great. Read about it at their website...
http://www.soundoffsignal.com/warnamber/flashers/Headlight/ETHFSS-SP.htm
You can buy one for about $40 online...
http://ledguy.net/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=106
I have recently installed a $60.00 HID kit (2 bulbs & 2 power packs) I got on eBay
(search for seller FLASHPLUS - no business affiliation!) and have been flashing
the HIDs with the above wig-wag unit with great success.
--------
Tony Kirk
RV-6A N57TK
<a href="http://www.tomsrv8.com/">www.TomsRV8.com</a>
webmaster <a href="http://www.eaa582.org/">www.EAA582.org</a>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=275651#275651
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/n57tk_wigwag_hid_204.wmv
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Flop Tubes 4-Sale |
Jerry,
I would like a picture of your flop tubes, I am interested.
Pics to Flyboyedwards@yahoo.com please.
Thanks,
Jason
Do not archive
--- On Mon, 11/30/09, J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com> wrote:
From: J Riffel <riffeljl@gmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Flop Tubes 4-Sale
I've got 2 new flop-tubes (fuel pickup aerobatic flight) that I bought from
Vans, but didn't use on my RV7A. -If anyone's interested, I'll sell them
for $32ea ($60 for both) and I'll pay UPS shipping in conUS.--Pics ava
ilable on request.
"Jerry"
=0A=0A=0A
Message 7
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Depending on available space=2C you might want to make two individual carts
=2C which will give you more options in moving the wings around.
Subject: RV-List: Wing Cart
From: ixb@videotron.ca
In addition to what David Nelson said about a wing cart:
- Make sure your castering wheels are well attached to a robust structure.
Mine were always falling off/breaking the wood because there is a lot of f
orce acting through them.
- I used ex-furniture casters which worked fine in the garage=2C but not on
the more uneven driveway.
- Make one end the shape of the wing rib and the other end flat=2C to suppo
rt the main spar as it exits the wing.
- Decide how you want the wings facing before you cut the shapes. Least spa
ce would be lower surfaces facing each other=2C but facing outwards lets yo
u work through the access panels in the wings.
- You don't actually need an outer frame if you use a relatively strong sp
ine=2C like a 2X4 attached to a 2X6 but make it shorter than the distance f
rom the landing lights to the inner wing.
- I found foam strips=2C stapled in place around the curvature of the wing
slot helped protect the wings.
Best of luck=2C
Ian Brown=2C Bromont=2C Quebec=2C RV-9A
_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: Unclutter your desktop. Learn more.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/videos-tours.aspx?h=7sec&slide
id=1&media=aero-shake-7second&listid=1&stop=1&ocid=PID24727::T:WL
MTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_7secdemo:122009
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Mystery Washer |
Thanks for the idea Nelson, but my kit was prior to this mod for the nose
wheel. I've since order the updated parts and modified mine and I believe
the axle is a AN6 bolt not a AN5 but my plans are at the hanger.
Always great to hear from Das Fed :>), but I already checked this and the
leading edge tank to fuselage bolt is a AN4 so "NO JOY" here.
Great ideas of things to check, I'm still trying to sort this out.
Perhaps a call to Van's is in order.
Marty
Time: 09:23:02 AM PST US
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Mystery Washer
As there are only two they may be the ones used on the wing leading edge to
fuselage attaching point.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
> Date: Mon=2C 30 Nov 2009 08:53:35 -0600
> From: david.nelson@pobox.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Mystery Washer
>
>
>
> Hi Marty in Brentwood TN=2C
>
> On the -7A's=2C I think these washers are used on the front axle to
> provi
de for a
> slot of sorts for the nose gear fairing. Perhaps it's the same on
> -6A's.
>
> Regards=2C
> /\/elson
>
> ~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any
> spring
. ~~
>
> On Mon=2C 30 Nov 2009=2C emrath wrote:
>
> >
> > Folks=2C
> > I'm in finally assembly of my RV-6A and have a couple AN970-516
> > washers (sort of a "fender" washer). Can any -6A builder's advise me
> > where thes
e
> > are to be utilized? It seems to me the only -5 bolt is the one
> > attachin
g
> > the rear spar to the fuselage spar carry thru fork=3B my drawings
> > show
using
> > AN960 washers in this application. Thanks for your assistance in
> > advanc
e.
> > Marty in Brentwood TN
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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