Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:53 AM - Re: roll trim/aileron trim (Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc.)
2. 07:57 AM - Re: UNSUBSCRIBE (Dwpetrus@aol.com)
3. 09:36 AM - Binding in Engine Cowl hinges (Joe & Jan Connell)
4. 11:10 AM - Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges (Bill Boyd)
5. 11:15 AM - Re: roll trim/aileron trim (Dan Bergeron)
6. 11:18 AM - Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges (Glenn Bell)
7. 11:19 AM - Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges (Glenn Bell)
8. 01:24 PM - Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges (Michael Kraus)
9. 01:40 PM - Re: roll trim/aileron trim (Fly RV6)
10. 04:28 PM - Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges (Bob)
11. 05:20 PM - Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges (Peter Laurence)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: roll trim/aileron trim |
Louis, That is a great post. Thanks for give us another side to the story
of roll trim/aileron trim/roll yaw. I apprecate your knowledge.
Jim
RV9a building, MN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 6:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: roll trim/aileron trim
>
> Hi gang,
>
> It's good to see some real RV-list questions and answers. I would like to
> add a very relevant piece of info to this subject.
>
> Years ago, there were numerous discussions regarding roll trim control on
> the RV series. I learned a lot ( and forgot some of it)
>
> On my second RV-4, I found that I was constantly pushing over to the left
> to compensate for a heavy wing. This, of course changed in magnitude as
> the right tank was depleted. But, no matter how much aileron pinching I
> did, my honey always wanted to lean to the right more often than to the
> left. Now, this was not always the case. My first flight across the
> continent never showed a trim problem. After this 2400 mile trip (16
> flying hours over two days) someone pointed out that my left main gear leg
> fairing was split open at the back. Signs of blood and guts, as well as a
> small dent in the leading edge of the fairing pointed to a small bird
> strike. A relatively easy repair was completed and the fairing was
> re-installed. That's when the problem started. But I didn't realize I had
> a problem for several months. When I did, I certainly didn't think of my
> fairing repair as the culprit!! Where is this all going? Well, I never
> really aligned the fairing perfectly, and after my first Anual Inspection,
> my mechanic asked me how to align the fairings. Well I did the old string
> trick, and noticed that the tabs on the left fairing didn't match the crud
> marks left on the leg prior to removal. Voila! The plane was now a much
> more balanced machine. So I decided to do a few experiments. I twisted the
> fairing a little bit, took it back into the air. Twisted it past center in
> the other direction, took it into the air. The results were that a small
> twist or misalignment was like having an off-center rudder under the
> engine. Boy, does this affect roll/yaw balance. I removed Van's roll trim
> for good ( It did work well, but I was in new territory with my aileron
> misaligned). So, my point is: for those of you just into your first
> flights, check your fairings' alignment before bending rudder trim tabs
> and squeezing ailerons.
>
> P.S.
> I added a Digitrak a few months later to give me a break (when the shit
> hits the fan), but not to control a bad roll condition. My feeling is that
> all RV's should have an A/P if you are going on serious trips - even if
> you never turn it on. When turned off, I hardly notice my "well balanced"
> RV-4 when the tank are uneven.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
Message 2
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In a message dated 1/28/2010 9:55:39 A.M. Central Standard Time,
jfogarty@tds.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc."
<jfogarty@tds.net>
Louis, That is a great post. Thanks for give us another side to the
story
of roll trim/aileron trim/roll yaw. I apprecate your knowledge.
Jim
RV9a building, MN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 6:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: roll trim/aileron trim
>
> Hi gang,
>
> It's good to see some real RV-list questions and answers. I would like
to
> add a very relevant piece of info to this subject.
>
> Years ago, there were numerous discussions regarding roll trim control
on
> the RV series. I learned a lot ( and forgot some of it)
>
> On my second RV-4, I found that I was constantly pushing over to the
left
> to compensate for a heavy wing. This, of course changed in magnitude as
> the right tank was depleted. But, no matter how much aileron pinching I
> did, my honey always wanted to lean to the right more often than to the
> left. Now, this was not always the case. My first flight across the
> continent never showed a trim problem. After this 2400 mile trip (16
> flying hours over two days) someone pointed out that my left main gear
leg
> fairing was split open at the back. Signs of blood and guts, as well as
a
> small dent in the leading edge of the fairing pointed to a small bird
> strike. A relatively easy repair was completed and the fairing was
> re-installed. That's when the problem started. But I didn't realize I
had
> a problem for several months. When I did, I certainly didn't think of my
> fairing repair as the culprit!! Where is this all going? Well, I never
> really aligned the fairing perfectly, and after my first Anual
Inspection,
> my mechanic asked me how to align the fairings. Well I did the old
string
> trick, and noticed that the tabs on the left fairing didn't match the
crud
> marks left on the leg prior to removal. Voila! The plane was now a
much
> more balanced machine. So I decided to do a few experiments. I twisted
the
> fairing a little bit, took it back into the air. Twisted it past center
in
> the other direction, took it into the air. The results were that a small
> twist or misalignment was like having an off-center rudder under the
> engine. Boy, does this affect roll/yaw balance. I removed Van's roll
trim
> for good ( It did work well, but I was in new territory with my aileron
> misaligned). So, my point is: for those of you just into your first
> flights, check your fairings' alignment before bending rudder trim tabs
> and squeezing ailerons.
>
> P.S.
> I added a Digitrak a few months later to give me a break (when the shit
> hits the fan), but not to control a bad roll condition. My feeling is
that
> all RV's should have an A/P if you are going on serious trips - even if
> you never turn it on. When turned off, I hardly notice my "well
balanced"
> RV-4 when the tank are uneven.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
Gentlemen,
My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the
top and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts
to align each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I
have to use an electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined
hinge. I had hoped it would loosen a bit.
I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use
a drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've
considered running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge
segments.
Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a
bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the
pin stock?
More suggestions are welcome...
Joe Connell
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
It's been 12 years since the build, but I recall sanding the hinge pins for
a long time before they slid in easily enough - 400, 600 grit carbide paper
and then emery cloth - lengthwise, by hand. No need to chuck it in a lathe
and maintain perfect roundness - probably a good way to lose a body part. I
think I crowned the openings of some of the troublesome hinge eyes with a
small abrasive Dremel burr, too.
Bill B
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 12:33 PM, Joe & Jan Connell <jconnell@fmwildblue.com
> wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top
> and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align
> each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an
> electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had
> hoped it would loosen a bit.
>
> I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a
> drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered
> running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
>
> Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a
> bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin
> stock?
>
> More suggestions are welcome...
>
> Joe Connell
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: roll trim/aileron trim |
Good Morning All:
Nice to be discussing RV issues.
First flight of my RV-7A, was 8/4/09. The tach went over 90 hours
yesterday. Thus far all "issues" have been minor and easily dealth with.
If you're a "newbie" to homebuilding the most important thing before you
even begin is to find yourself a good mentor, someone who has "been there -
done that." I was lucky - I got the best. (I'm doubly lucky I guess - I
have a wife who loves to fly in small airplanes.)
Re aileron trim - a comment based entirely on my own experience.
1. I have electric aileron trim - it's not expensive; installation is easy;
it does not get in the way; it's not heavy; it works. Yes - I'd do it
again.
2. Do not install wheel pants and gear leg fairings prior to first flight,
it will only complicate things.
3. Without the pants and fairings installed, I had a heavy left wing,
attributable, I think, to a barely noticeable (You can feel it with your
fingers more than you can see it.) airfoil difference between the two wings.
Solution: I bonded a plastic "rudder trim tab," part # 9883, $13.50, from
Avery Tools, to the bottom, outboard trailing edge of the right aileron. It
moves the right aileron up ever so slightly (You can't even see the
difference in flight.), keeping the right wing down where it belongs.
Problem solved.
4. I optimized my plane for cross-country flying and installed Jon
Johanssen, 9.5 gal tip tanks. I've only used them once so far but noticed
that with four gallons burned off out of one tank there was a noticeable
tendency for the plane to dip toward the opposite wing; a 24 lb weight
differential on the end of a long lever does have an effect. It trimmed out
easily with the aileron trim.
5. I have a Grand Rapids Technology single AHARS, dual screen system, an all
Garmin avionics stack (The 480 is on top - (not user friendly but, when you
learn how to use it, the capablity is phenomenal.)) and a Tru Trak a/p
slaved to the Garmin. Virtually all my flights since the 40 test hours were
flown off have been x/c, and, with an RV - an a/p makes all the difference
in the world on a long flight. I flew several of my first x/c flights with
the a/p turned off (Yes - I'm a slow learner.) and found, once I learned how
to use it, that the a/p makes all the difference in the world in terms of
fatigue, ease of navigation, enjoyment, communication, and, most
importantly, safety. (I'm instrument rated (not current at the moment) and
intend to use this airplane for instrument flying - some might disagree but,
I feel an a/p is essential with an RV in the clouds.)
6. I used the string method when lining up my leg fairings and wheel pants.
I put the main gear fairings on first and noticed the ball was a bit out of
the cage. I had to adjust them several times, using the eyeball method, with
test flights in between, before getting it right. The nose gear fairing was
no problem. The wheel pants and upper intersection fairings took me three
or four days to install but came out fine. Take your time and measure
everything repeatedly. (Dad's old plumb-bob came in handy. (Think about
that folks - probably the oldest precision instrument on the planet being
used to build an airplane)).
7. I Typically cruise at 2300 RPM, leaned to 50 degrees LOP. The
difference in airspeed at that power setting w/ vs w/o fairings and pants is
between 14 and 16 knots.
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A, N307TB, Spero II
90 hours since 8/4/09
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 10:52 AM, Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc.
<jfogarty@tds.net> wrote:
> <jfogarty@tds.net>
>
> Louis, That is a great post. Thanks for give us another side to the story
> of roll trim/aileron trim/roll yaw. I apprecate your knowledge.
>
> Jim
> RV9a building, MN
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Louis Willig" <larywil@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 6:21 PM
> Subject: RV-List: roll trim/aileron trim
>
>
>>
>> Hi gang,
>>
>> It's good to see some real RV-list questions and answers. I would like to
>> add a very relevant piece of info to this subject.
>>
>> Years ago, there were numerous discussions regarding roll trim control on
>> the RV series. I learned a lot ( and forgot some of it)
>>
>> On my second RV-4, I found that I was constantly pushing over to the left
>> to compensate for a heavy wing. This, of course changed in magnitude as the
>> right tank was depleted. But, no matter how much aileron pinching I did, my
>> honey always wanted to lean to the right more often than to the left. Now,
>> this was not always the case. My first flight across the continent never
>> showed a trim problem. After this 2400 mile trip (16 flying hours over two
>> days) someone pointed out that my left main gear leg fairing was split open
>> at the back. Signs of blood and guts, as well as a small dent in the leading
>> edge of the fairing pointed to a small bird strike. A relatively easy repair
>> was completed and the fairing was re-installed. That's when the problem
>> started. But I didn't realize I had a problem for several months. When I
>> did, I certainly didn't think of my fairing repair as the culprit!! Where
>> is this all going? Well, I never really aligned the fairing perfectly, and
>> after my first Anual Inspection, my mechanic asked me how to align the
>> fairings. Well I did the old string trick, and noticed that the tabs on the
>> left fairing didn't match the crud marks left on the leg prior to removal.
>> Voila! The plane was now a much more balanced machine. So I decided to do a
>> few experiments. I twisted the fairing a little bit, took it back into the
>> air. Twisted it past center in the other direction, took it into the air.
>> The results were that a small twist or misalignment was like having an
>> off-center rudder under the engine. Boy, does this affect roll/yaw balance.
>> I removed Van's roll trim for good ( It did work well, but I was in new
>> territory with my aileron misaligned). So, my point is: for those of you
>> just into your first flights, check your fairings' alignment before bending
>> rudder trim tabs and squeezing ailerons.
>>
>> P.S.
>> I added a Digitrak a few months later to give me a break (when the shit
>> hits the fan), but not to control a bad roll condition. My feeling is that
>> all RV's should have an A/P if you are going on serious trips - even if you
>> never turn it on. When turned off, I hardly notice my "well balanced" RV-4
>> when the tank are uneven.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Louis I Willig
>> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
>> Penn Valley, PA 19072
>> 610 668-4964
>> RV-4, N180PF
>> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
Why don't you try putting some coarse valve lapping compound on each of the
eyes and running the .090 through them with a drill with the halves in
position.say a minute or so.then clean all the coarse off .which will take a
while .then repeat with fine compound.get hinges and .090 good and clean.and
lube everything and see if that doesn't help.I found that it took very very
little misalignement to cause a big problem.plus it cleaned out the epoxy
that somehow found its way onto the hinges.
The coarse alone leaves a matte finish and they will still be a little
stiff..the fine polishes it up.I suspect that a third reaming with rubbing
compound would make them slicker but I didn't find that to be necessary.
I haven't heard of anyone else doing this so there may be some reason not
to..but I didn't see anything wrong with it..
Of course I wouldn't do this untl I was absolutely sure/positive/convinced
that the eyes were as aligned as I could get them.
I never considered this to be a short cut.just the final finish to eliminate
"high spots"
ner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joe & Jan Connell
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 11:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges
Gentlemen,
My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top
and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align
each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an
electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had
hoped it would loosen a bit.
I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a
drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered
running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a bit?
If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin
stock?
More suggestions are welcome...
Joe Connell
Message 7
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| Subject: | Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
Just add to my previous post that I also crowned them with my dremel and the
carbide burr that I bought at OSH this year..i just had to get that in..
Btw the compound reduced the pin dia by less than .002
Bell
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Boyd
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 1:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges
It's been 12 years since the build, but I recall sanding the hinge pins for
a long time before they slid in easily enough - 400, 600 grit carbide paper
and then emery cloth - lengthwise, by hand. No need to chuck it in a lathe
and maintain perfect roundness - probably a good way to lose a body part. I
think I crowned the openings of some of the troublesome hinge eyes with a
small abrasive Dremel burr, too.
Bill B
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 12:33 PM, Joe & Jan Connell
<jconnell@fmwildblue.com> wrote:
Gentlemen,
My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top
and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align
each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an
electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had
hoped it would loosen a bit.
I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a
drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered
running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a bit?
If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin
stock?
More suggestions are welcome...
Joe Connell
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
Is this a flying plane or are you still building? If you are still
building and you can get it together, I would not do anything until
you have flown the plane for a good month or so. The heat cycles on
the cowl fiberglass really help align things and it makes the pins
much easier to remove. I had the same issue on my -4 and a -10 and
after a few flights I was able to get them in and out by hand.
YMMV
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 28, 2010, at 12:33 PM, "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell@fmwildblue.com
> wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join
> the top and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive
> efforts to align each segment of the hinges there is considerable
> binding. I have to use an electric drill to move the pin in and out
> of the combined hinge. I had hoped it would loosen a bit.
>
> I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still
> use a drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've
> considered running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the
> hinge segments.
>
> Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things
> loosened a bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you
> able to obtain the pin stock?
>
> More suggestions are welcome...
>
> Joe Connell
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | roll trim/aileron trim |
I agree. I flew for months without the leg or wheel fairings. Finally got
all the minor tweaks to the ailerons and rudder tab to get the plane flying
straight and level. OK, that only took a few flights but it took longer to
really have a feel for the feel and speed of the plane. Then when putting
the wheel fairings and gear fairings on I knew for sure when they were
straight. Improvement in speed but no other adverse affect. I can fly
straight and level without the auto pilot but I rarely go anywhere without
using it.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Dudley
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: roll trim/aileron trim
First flighter,
Here is another suggestion I learned from somewhere or someone before my
first flight of my RV-6A. Make your first flight and other early flights
WITHOUT your gear leg fairings or wheel fairings. Do your rudder trim
adjustments and heavy wing adjustments BEFORE mounting your leg or wheel
farinigs or installing your aileron trim. Then, you will know what effects
result from leg or wheel fairings. You will also learn how much airspeed
improvement you get from those fairings. My results were like 20 mph gain
(per 3 heading gps measurements) after mounting those fairings.
Happy first flights!!
Richard Dudley
RV-6A
---- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 7:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: roll trim/aileron trim
>
> Hi gang,
>
> It's good to see some real RV-list questions and answers. I would like to
> add a very relevant piece of info to this subject.
>
> Years ago, there were numerous discussions regarding roll trim control on
> the RV series. I learned a lot ( and forgot some of it)
>
> On my second RV-4, I found that I was constantly pushing over to the left
> to compensate for a heavy wing. This, of course changed in magnitude as
> the right tank was depleted. But, no matter how much aileron pinching I
> did, my honey always wanted to lean to the right more often than to the
> left. Now, this was not always the case. My first flight across the
> continent never showed a trim problem. After this 2400 mile trip (16
> flying hours over two days) someone pointed out that my left main gear leg
> fairing was split open at the back. Signs of blood and guts, as well as a
> small dent in the leading edge of the fairing pointed to a small bird
> strike. A relatively easy repair was completed and the fairing was
> re-installed. That's when the problem started. But I didn't realize I had
> a problem for several months. When I did, I certainly didn't think of my
> fairing repair as the culprit!! Where is this all going? Well, I never
> really aligned the fairing perfectly, and after my first Anual Inspection,
> my mechanic asked me how to align the fairings. Well I did the old string
> trick, and noticed that the tabs on the left fairing didn't match the crud
> marks left on the leg prior to removal. Voila! The plane was now a much
> more balanced machine. So I decided to do a few experiments. I twisted the
> fairing a little bit, took it back into the air. Twisted it past center in
> the other direction, took it into the air. The results were that a small
> twist or misalignment was like having an off-center rudder under the
> engine. Boy, does this affect roll/yaw balance. I removed Van's roll trim
> for good ( It did work well, but I was in new territory with my aileron
> misaligned). So, my point is: for those of you just into your first
> flights, check your fairings' alignment before bending rudder trim tabs
> and squeezing ailerons.
>
> P.S.
> I added a Digitrak a few months later to give me a break (when the shit
> hits the fan), but not to control a bad roll condition. My feeling is that
> all RV's should have an A/P if you are going on serious trips - even if
> you never turn it on. When turned off, I hardly notice my "well balanced"
> RV-4 when the tank are uneven.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
Joe,
If you don't mind a "blast from the past" (retired RV builder), I like
the idea of reducing the diameter and smoothing the hinge pin. My main
interest was always to make sure the aluminum hinge material lasted as
long as possible because it would be such a mess to replace. You can
always buy some new hinge pin with the cad plating intact if things get
sloppy. That never happened on my RV6 in 475 hours.
On my RV6 and the ones I helped others build, I chucked the hinge pin in
an air drill, removed all of the cad plating, polished with red and gray
Scotchbrite, degreased the pins and lubed with "MolyCoat "G" a
*Molybdenum disulfide* product---very lightly,less than a "match head's"
worth for both pins. I then ran the pin in with a drill to transfer the
moly to the aluminum loops. I thought this would be much better than
oil as having oil drain on a surface to be painted would be bad. Avoid
silicon for the same reason. After a few runs with the drill, I was
able to easily install and remove the pins by hand. (This is with RV6's
only. I have no experience with the nine.)
Make sure you haven't grabbed the pins anywhere along the length and
raised "burrs" as this will do a job on the interior of the soft
aluminum hinge loops.
Although I still read the list, I don't post because I haven't kept up
on the "latest & greatest". I think I've helped on around 8 or 9 RVs
and a couple of Glastars, the latest being a RV6A over in Spearfish,
S.D. which was finished a year or so ago.
Bob Skinner
Joe & Jan Connell wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join
> the top and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive
> efforts to align each segment of the hinges there is considerable
> binding. I have to use an electric drill to move the pin in and out
> of the combined hinge. I had hoped it would loosen a bit.
>
> I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still
> use a drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've
> considered running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the
> hinge segments.
>
> Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened
> a bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain
> the pin stock?
>
> More suggestions are welcome...
>
> Joe Connell
>
>
> *
> *
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
I had the same problem on my 9A even though I was very careful in the
installation. I took each hinge segment and opened them slightly where need.
It took a while but it worked out well.
Peter
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 12:33 PM, Joe & Jan Connell <jconnell@fmwildblue.com
> wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top
> and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align
> each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an
> electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had
> hoped it would loosen a bit.
>
> I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a
> drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered
> running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
>
> Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a
> bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin
> stock?
>
> More suggestions are welcome...
>
> Joe Connell
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
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