Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:12 PM - Re: Re: Input Needed on Engine Selection: 0-320 vs. 0-360?, which model? (John Morgensen)
2. 01:09 PM - Van's Airforce Sweatshirts (Louis Willig)
3. 01:30 PM - Re: Van's Airforce Sweatshirts (Bobby Hester)
4. 03:32 PM - Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit... (Matt Dralle)
5. 08:51 PM - Re: Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit... (Don)
6. 09:43 PM - Re: Re: Input Needed on Engine Selection: 0-320 vs. 0-360?, which model? (glen matejcek)
7. 10:24 PM - Re: Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit... (Jim)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Input Needed on Engine Selection: 0-320 vs. 0-360?, |
which model?
I have a 160hp O-320 in my RV-4.... It can use some extra weight up
front - a 360 or constant speed prop would help the C.G.
John Morgensen
RV4 Purchased flying
RV9A - wiring
Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> I have a 160hp O-320 in my RV-4.... The only thing I'd do differently
> next time is go with a constant speed prop. The lighter the RV-4, the
> more fun it is to fly!!!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 29, 2010, at 7:40 PM, Scott <acepilot@bloomer.net> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>> J Riffel wrote:
>>> While the RV6/7 flys fine on a 320 (a friend has one - and he wishes
>>> he'd gone w/ a 360), most have 360s. When you fly with other RVs
>>> (and you will), you'll have difficulty keeping up w/ a 320. And when
>>> you (or your family) sells, it'll be more difficult with a 320.
>>>
>> But the O-320s can burn car gas :) I'm planning on an O-320 in my RV-4.
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Van's Airforce Sweatshirts |
>Does anyone have any of the old style Van's sweatshirts they want to
>part with. These are the ones with the re, black, white and blue
>RV-4 insignea ( blue print-to-flying)? OR does anyone have a source
>of the heat transfer paper that was used to make these shirts? Any
>help will be rewarded.
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Airforce Sweatshirts |
Maybe you can get info about getting sweatshirts printed they sale
t-shirts, caps, and patches
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1264886809-390-231&browse=gifts&product=vaf
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm
Louis Willig wrote:
>
>
>> Does anyone have any of the old style Van's sweatshirts they want to
>> part with. These are the ones with the re, black, white and blue RV-4
>> insignea ( blue print-to-flying)? OR does anyone have a source of the
>> heat transfer paper that was used to make these shirts? Any help will
>> be rewarded.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit... |
Dear Listers,
I'm adding the little fairings between the main wheel pants and the gear leg today.
I'm using the premade fairing from Farings Etc and installation looks pretty
straightforward.
But I'm really on the fence about the main wheel pants and specifically the front-to-back
fit. I have the gap all the way around between the two perfect. No
problems there.
The issue is with the unevenness of the thickness of the front to back. The rear
part has the flange that holds the plate nuts. The shoulder is a little bit
higher in some spots than the front part and a little be lower in other spots.
If it was higher all the way around, it would be a no-brainer to just sand
it down. But the high/low is problematic. The low spots are generally caused
by the screws and the high spots between the screws.
Yeah, I could fill and sand and fill and sand so that *maybe* I would have a "perfect"
transition front to back. But maybe not. I'm thinking its going to be
a huge amount of work that, in the end, isn't really going to look any different
once its painted.
Should I just embrace the transition as-is and move on? Or spend a couple of weeks
trying to fill and sand in hopes of a better look?
Attached are a couple of pics of what it looks like currently.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
Message 5
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| Subject: | Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit... |
Matt, You can super glue washers to the inside of the front piece so that
the screws do not compress the lip into the low position. After that sant
the rest even.
Don VS RV7 flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 3:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit...
Dear Listers,
I'm adding the little fairings between the main wheel pants and the gear leg
today. I'm using the premade fairing from Farings Etc and installation
looks pretty straightforward.
But I'm really on the fence about the main wheel pants and specifically the
front-to-back fit. I have the gap all the way around between the two
perfect. No problems there.
The issue is with the unevenness of the thickness of the front to back. The
rear part has the flange that holds the plate nuts. The shoulder is a
little bit higher in some spots than the front part and a little be lower in
other spots. If it was higher all the way around, it would be a no-brainer
to just sand it down. But the high/low is problematic. The low spots are
generally caused by the screws and the high spots between the screws.
Yeah, I could fill and sand and fill and sand so that *maybe* I would have a
"perfect" transition front to back. But maybe not. I'm thinking its going
to be a huge amount of work that, in the end, isn't really going to look any
different once its painted.
Should I just embrace the transition as-is and move on? Or spend a couple
of weeks trying to fill and sand in hopes of a better look?
Attached are a couple of pics of what it looks like currently.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Re: Input Needed on Engine Selection: 0-320 vs. 0-360?, which |
model?
Howdy-
You might consider one of Bart's O/IO 375's. It has the same footprint as
an IO-360, but you can get 195 hp out of it with car gas or another 10 or
15 hp (I forget which) if you go higher compression and 100LL.
The way he flow matches the injectors, one should be able to operate the IO
version significantly leaner than with a typical carb installation. The IO
would also allow sustained inverted flight, for those who like that sort of
thing :-P
Just one more data point
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit... |
Had the same when doing mine a few years ago. Spent about four days filling
and sanding for that right fit. Looking at them now it was worth the effort.
Hang in there Matt, my guess is you'll like the outcome.
Yes building an OBAM aircraft is "a huge amount of work" but you knew that
when you signed on.
I'm Sure you'll be proud of the extra effort.
Keep at it, not far now,
Jim in Kelowna RV6-A C-GIIG for sale (No license)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
<rv7-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 3:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit...
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I'm adding the little fairings between the main wheel pants and the gear
> leg today. I'm using the premade fairing from Farings Etc and
> installation looks pretty straightforward.
>
> But I'm really on the fence about the main wheel pants and specifically
> the front-to-back fit. I have the gap all the way around between the two
> perfect. No problems there.
>
> The issue is with the unevenness of the thickness of the front to back.
> The rear part has the flange that holds the plate nuts. The shoulder is a
> little bit higher in some spots than the front part and a little be lower
> in other spots. If it was higher all the way around, it would be a
> no-brainer to just sand it down. But the high/low is problematic. The
> low spots are generally caused by the screws and the high spots between
> the screws.
>
> Yeah, I could fill and sand and fill and sand so that *maybe* I would have
> a "perfect" transition front to back. But maybe not. I'm thinking its
> going to be a huge amount of work that, in the end, isn't really going to
> look any different once its painted.
>
> Should I just embrace the transition as-is and move on? Or spend a couple
> of weeks trying to fill and sand in hopes of a better look?
>
> Attached are a couple of pics of what it looks like currently.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
> Database version: 6.14250
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
>
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