Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:22 AM - Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel (Matt Dralle)
2. 10:07 AM - Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel (Kopp, Kenneth G CDR HSM-70, N0 Exec Staff)
3. 11:18 AM - Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel (Matt Dralle)
4. 12:01 PM - Re: Hartzell-Style Propeller Wrench (Tailgummer@aol.com)
5. 01:07 PM - Assembly Instructions (Robin Marks)
6. 03:46 PM - small fuel leak (thomas sargent)
7. 03:59 PM - small fuel leak (thomas sargent)
8. 06:06 PM - Re: small fuel leak (Ralph E. Capen)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel |
At 08:54 AM 2/10/2010 Wednesday, you wrote:
>Dear Fellow RV-8 Builders & Owners, I just saw some photos of Matt Dralle's RV-8
windscreen and the metal bezel around the roll bar and top of windscreen is
beautiful! Mounting the wind screen is two steps away for my construction and
I want to that application for my bird. Looked like the presentation on a F104.
Who knows how it's make? Do I need metal stretcher or what? What type and
thickness of metal is used, Screw size and type ? Is there a template somewhere?
I called Van's, talked to Ken, they got nothing. Hope to hear from you all
soon as this is a much better looking way, Bill of Georgia RV-8a Wiring
Hi Bill,
Below are 17 entries from my RV-8 Builder's Log where I document the process of
fabricating that metal bezel over the windscreen/rollbar on the RV-8. I can't
imagine doing a fiberglass lay up over the top like that. What a mess it would
make inside the cabin. The metal bezel is very strong. I used .032" for
the main bezel plus another .032" stiffener at the top. I originally went with
#6 screws, but the broke a tap off in the hole and had to go with #8. I'd probably
do #8 again from the start just for the increased surface area. No shrinker/stretcher
needed. Just a very accurate pattern as shown in the photos.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Metal Bezel For Windscreen/Rollbar:
(12 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 12):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=93178&row=158
(2 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 2):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=94693&row=139
(3 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 3):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log'370&row=48
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Finishing Up...
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List: Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel |
Matt - do you still have the final patterns you used? I'd be happy to buy them
off you and pay for shipping. I love what you've done and believe this is the
way to go. Nice work!
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 12:14
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel
--> RV8-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
At 08:54 AM 2/10/2010 Wednesday, you wrote:
>Dear Fellow RV-8 Builders & Owners, I just saw some photos of Matt Dralle's RV-8
windscreen and the metal bezel around the roll bar and top of windscreen is
beautiful! Mounting the wind screen is two steps away for my construction and
I want to that application for my bird. Looked like the presentation on a F104.
Who knows how it's make? Do I need metal stretcher or what? What type and
thickness of metal is used, Screw size and type ? Is there a template somewhere?
I called Van's, talked to Ken, they got nothing. Hope to hear from you all
soon as this is a much better looking way, Bill of Georgia RV-8a Wiring
Hi Bill,
Below are 17 entries from my RV-8 Builder's Log where I document the process of
fabricating that metal bezel over the windscreen/rollbar on the RV-8. I can't
imagine doing a fiberglass lay up over the top like that. What a mess it would
make inside the cabin. The metal bezel is very strong. I used .032" for
the main bezel plus another .032" stiffener at the top. I originally went with
#6 screws, but the broke a tap off in the hole and had to go with #8. I'd probably
do #8 again from the start just for the increased surface area. No shrinker/stretcher
needed. Just a very accurate pattern as shown in the photos.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Metal Bezel For Windscreen/Rollbar:
(12 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 12):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&log=93178&row=158
(2 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 2):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&log=94693&row=139
(3 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 3):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&log'370&row=48
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
Finishing Up...
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel |
koppk1 wrote:
> Matt - do you still have the final patterns you used? I'd be happy to buy them
off you and pay for shipping. I love what you've done and believe this is the
way to go. Nice work!
>
> Ken
> --
Well, I could float you my patterns, but I would strongly recommend that you just
measure out your own based on the dynamics of your own canopy/windscreen/rollbar
dynamics. The bezel has to fit down really tightly around the windscreen
and depending on the size of spacers you use to offset the Plexi, how you cut
your windscreen out, the fit of your fiberglass side skirts, etc, etc, etc,
your fit is probably going to be quite a bit different.
Cutting the pattern is really pretty easy. Go to Office Max or where ever and
get some of the 2' x 3' filecard cardboard and tape two together and just scotch
tape it over the top of the windscreen and mark it. Cut it out and tape it
back on and then double check all of the dimensions. If it isn't quite right,
just make a new pattern. Patterns are easy and cheap to make and the "bendability"
of the filecard cardboard is very very similar to the .032" aluminum.
Once you get a perfect cardboard version of the pattern, transfer it to a piece
of aluminum and cut it out with Dremel cutoff wheel, then carefully file it
down to the exact size.
I would strongly recommend adding the stiffener at the top as shown in some of
the log pictures. However, in the initial pattern pictures, I show the stiffener
piece being as wide as the actual bezel. Don't do this. You don't want the
stiffener between the main bezel and the Plexi as it will leave a lump in the
middle. Cut it wide enough to butt up against the Plexi and about 6-8" either
side of the center. On mine, the center section is plenty strong to use as
a "handle" for getting in and out. I bet those fiberglass ones aren't...
BTW, on my original post, the URLs would take you to the initial log entry, but
then if you click "Next Log" it wouldn't actually go to the next Log. The URLs
above are corrected such that the Next/Previous buttons work correctly.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
--------
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285988#285988
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Hartzell-Style Propeller Wrench |
Hmmm. My Hartzell manual specified 0.032" safety wire.
John D
Message 5
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Subject: | Assembly Instructions |
I will never complain about Vans assembly instructions again.
http://newslite.tv/2010/02/10/plane-decorated-with-an-idiots.html
Robin
Do Not Archive
Message 6
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At the point of having 0.4 hours on my engine (not flying yet), I have
noticed a small fuel leak on one of the fittings on my AFP boost pump. The
fitting just gets slightly wet with fuel. It's not fast enough to actually
drip.
The leak is at one of the flared tubing fittings on the tube that comes out
of the "back" of the pump, does quick 180 and goes 6 inches forward to a T.
It's leaking at the T. I tried re-torquing the B nut (I use a fish scale on
the end of the wrench to get the nominal torque value for the fitting) , but
the next day it was wet again - just sitting there. Running the boost pump
with the purge valve closed (to pump fuel from the left tank to the right)
doesn't seem to provoke it to leak.
The next thing to do, I guess, is to remove this short run of tube, examine
and clean all the the sealing surfaces and re-assemble it. I'd hate to try
to make a new piece of tubing - that short 180 deg. bend would be hard to
make. Of course, if I find that a flare has cracked, I'll have no choice.
Has any one else had this problem?
Is there any better way to deal with this?
Gee I hate plumbing.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly
Message 7
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At the point of having 0.4 hours on my engine (not flying yet), I have
noticed a small fuel leak on one of the fittings on my AFP boost pump. The
fitting just gets slightly wet with fuel. It's not fast enough to actually
drip.
The leak is at one of the flared tubing fittings on the tube that comes out
of the "back" of the pump, does quick 180 and goes 6 inches forward to a T.
It's leaking at the T. I tried re-torquing the B nut (I use a fish scale on
the end of the wrench to get the nominal torque value for the fitting) , but
the next day it was wet again - just sitting there. Running the boost pump
with the purge valve closed (to pump fuel from the left tank to the right)
doesn't seem to provoke it to leak.
The next thing to do, I guess, is to remove this short run of tube, examine
and clean all the the sealing surfaces and re-assemble it. I'd hate to try
to make a new piece of tubing - that short 180 deg. bend would be hard to
make. Of course, if I find that a flare has cracked, I'll have no choice.
Has any one else had this problem?
Is there any better way to deal with this?
Gee I hate plumbing.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: small fuel leak |
You can buy 37 degree 'gaskets' made out of very soft aluminum from
aircraft spruce in at least the -4 and -6 sizes. The aluminum is soft
enough that it will fill and seal minor imperfections.
I have more than one of them in my airplane - they're even on the
'approved' list according to ACS......
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 6:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: small fuel leak
At the point of having 0.4 hours on my engine (not flying yet), I have
noticed a small fuel leak on one of the fittings on my AFP boost pump.
The fitting just gets slightly wet with fuel. It's not fast enough to
actually drip.
The leak is at one of the flared tubing fittings on the tube that
comes out of the "back" of the pump, does quick 180 and goes 6 inches
forward to a T. It's leaking at the T. I tried re-torquing the B nut
(I use a fish scale on the end of the wrench to get the nominal torque
value for the fitting) , but the next day it was wet again - just
sitting there. Running the boost pump with the purge valve closed (to
pump fuel from the left tank to the right) doesn't seem to provoke it to
leak.
The next thing to do, I guess, is to remove this short run of tube,
examine and clean all the the sealing surfaces and re-assemble it. I'd
hate to try to make a new piece of tubing - that short 180 deg. bend
would be hard to make. Of course, if I find that a flare has cracked,
I'll have no choice.
Has any one else had this problem?
Is there any better way to deal with this?
Gee I hate plumbing.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly
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