---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 02/11/10: 8 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 09:22 AM - Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel (Matt Dralle) 2. 10:07 AM - Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel (Kopp, Kenneth G CDR HSM-70, N0 Exec Staff) 3. 11:18 AM - Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel (Matt Dralle) 4. 12:01 PM - Re: Hartzell-Style Propeller Wrench (Tailgummer@aol.com) 5. 01:07 PM - Assembly Instructions (Robin Marks) 6. 03:46 PM - small fuel leak (thomas sargent) 7. 03:59 PM - small fuel leak (thomas sargent) 8. 06:06 PM - Re: small fuel leak (Ralph E. Capen) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 09:22:10 AM PST US From: Matt Dralle Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel At 08:54 AM 2/10/2010 Wednesday, you wrote: >Dear Fellow RV-8 Builders & Owners, I just saw some photos of Matt Dralle's RV-8 windscreen and the metal bezel around the roll bar and top of windscreen is beautiful! Mounting the wind screen is two steps away for my construction and I want to that application for my bird. Looked like the presentation on a F104. Who knows how it's make? Do I need metal stretcher or what? What type and thickness of metal is used, Screw size and type ? Is there a template somewhere? I called Van's, talked to Ken, they got nothing. Hope to hear from you all soon as this is a much better looking way, Bill of Georgia RV-8a Wiring Hi Bill, Below are 17 entries from my RV-8 Builder's Log where I document the process of fabricating that metal bezel over the windscreen/rollbar on the RV-8. I can't imagine doing a fiberglass lay up over the top like that. What a mess it would make inside the cabin. The metal bezel is very strong. I used .032" for the main bezel plus another .032" stiffener at the top. I originally went with #6 screws, but the broke a tap off in the hole and had to go with #8. I'd probably do #8 again from the start just for the increased surface area. No shrinker/stretcher needed. Just a very accurate pattern as shown in the photos. Let me know if you have any questions. Metal Bezel For Windscreen/Rollbar: (12 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 12): http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=93178&row=158 (2 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 2): http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=94693&row=139 (3 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 3): http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log'370&row=48 Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Construction Log Finishing Up... ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 10:07:48 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel From: "Kopp, Kenneth G CDR HSM-70, N0 Exec Staff" Matt - do you still have the final patterns you used? I'd be happy to buy them off you and pay for shipping. I love what you've done and believe this is the way to go. Nice work! Ken -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 12:14 Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel --> RV8-List message posted by: Matt Dralle At 08:54 AM 2/10/2010 Wednesday, you wrote: >Dear Fellow RV-8 Builders & Owners, I just saw some photos of Matt Dralle's RV-8 windscreen and the metal bezel around the roll bar and top of windscreen is beautiful! Mounting the wind screen is two steps away for my construction and I want to that application for my bird. Looked like the presentation on a F104. Who knows how it's make? Do I need metal stretcher or what? What type and thickness of metal is used, Screw size and type ? Is there a template somewhere? I called Van's, talked to Ken, they got nothing. Hope to hear from you all soon as this is a much better looking way, Bill of Georgia RV-8a Wiring Hi Bill, Below are 17 entries from my RV-8 Builder's Log where I document the process of fabricating that metal bezel over the windscreen/rollbar on the RV-8. I can't imagine doing a fiberglass lay up over the top like that. What a mess it would make inside the cabin. The metal bezel is very strong. I used .032" for the main bezel plus another .032" stiffener at the top. I originally went with #6 screws, but the broke a tap off in the hole and had to go with #8. I'd probably do #8 again from the start just for the increased surface area. No shrinker/stretcher needed. Just a very accurate pattern as shown in the photos. Let me know if you have any questions. Metal Bezel For Windscreen/Rollbar: (12 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 12): http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&log=93178&row=158 (2 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 2): http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&log=94693&row=139 (3 Log Entries - Parts 1 - 3): http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&log'370&row=48 Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Construction Log Finishing Up... ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 11:18:16 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8 Windscreen Metal Bezel From: "Matt Dralle" koppk1 wrote: > Matt - do you still have the final patterns you used? I'd be happy to buy them off you and pay for shipping. I love what you've done and believe this is the way to go. Nice work! > > Ken > -- Well, I could float you my patterns, but I would strongly recommend that you just measure out your own based on the dynamics of your own canopy/windscreen/rollbar dynamics. The bezel has to fit down really tightly around the windscreen and depending on the size of spacers you use to offset the Plexi, how you cut your windscreen out, the fit of your fiberglass side skirts, etc, etc, etc, your fit is probably going to be quite a bit different. Cutting the pattern is really pretty easy. Go to Office Max or where ever and get some of the 2' x 3' filecard cardboard and tape two together and just scotch tape it over the top of the windscreen and mark it. Cut it out and tape it back on and then double check all of the dimensions. If it isn't quite right, just make a new pattern. Patterns are easy and cheap to make and the "bendability" of the filecard cardboard is very very similar to the .032" aluminum. Once you get a perfect cardboard version of the pattern, transfer it to a piece of aluminum and cut it out with Dremel cutoff wheel, then carefully file it down to the exact size. I would strongly recommend adding the stiffener at the top as shown in some of the log pictures. However, in the initial pattern pictures, I show the stiffener piece being as wide as the actual bezel. Don't do this. You don't want the stiffener between the main bezel and the Plexi as it will leave a lump in the middle. Cut it wide enough to butt up against the Plexi and about 6-8" either side of the center. On mine, the center section is plenty strong to use as a "handle" for getting in and out. I bet those fiberglass ones aren't... BTW, on my original post, the URLs would take you to the initial log entry, but then if you click "Next Log" it wouldn't actually go to the next Log. The URLs above are corrected such that the Next/Previous buttons work correctly. Let me know if you have any questions. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Construction Log -------- Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285988#285988 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 12:01:34 PM PST US From: Tailgummer@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell-Style Propeller Wrench Hmmm. My Hartzell manual specified 0.032" safety wire. John D ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 01:07:54 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Assembly Instructions From: "Robin Marks" I will never complain about Vans assembly instructions again. http://newslite.tv/2010/02/10/plane-decorated-with-an-idiots.html Robin Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 03:46:15 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: small fuel leak From: thomas sargent At the point of having 0.4 hours on my engine (not flying yet), I have noticed a small fuel leak on one of the fittings on my AFP boost pump. The fitting just gets slightly wet with fuel. It's not fast enough to actually drip. The leak is at one of the flared tubing fittings on the tube that comes out of the "back" of the pump, does quick 180 and goes 6 inches forward to a T. It's leaking at the T. I tried re-torquing the B nut (I use a fish scale on the end of the wrench to get the nominal torque value for the fitting) , but the next day it was wet again - just sitting there. Running the boost pump with the purge valve closed (to pump fuel from the left tank to the right) doesn't seem to provoke it to leak. The next thing to do, I guess, is to remove this short run of tube, examine and clean all the the sealing surfaces and re-assemble it. I'd hate to try to make a new piece of tubing - that short 180 deg. bend would be hard to make. Of course, if I find that a flare has cracked, I'll have no choice. Has any one else had this problem? Is there any better way to deal with this? Gee I hate plumbing. -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 03:59:21 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: small fuel leak From: thomas sargent At the point of having 0.4 hours on my engine (not flying yet), I have noticed a small fuel leak on one of the fittings on my AFP boost pump. The fitting just gets slightly wet with fuel. It's not fast enough to actually drip. The leak is at one of the flared tubing fittings on the tube that comes out of the "back" of the pump, does quick 180 and goes 6 inches forward to a T. It's leaking at the T. I tried re-torquing the B nut (I use a fish scale on the end of the wrench to get the nominal torque value for the fitting) , but the next day it was wet again - just sitting there. Running the boost pump with the purge valve closed (to pump fuel from the left tank to the right) doesn't seem to provoke it to leak. The next thing to do, I guess, is to remove this short run of tube, examine and clean all the the sealing surfaces and re-assemble it. I'd hate to try to make a new piece of tubing - that short 180 deg. bend would be hard to make. Of course, if I find that a flare has cracked, I'll have no choice. Has any one else had this problem? Is there any better way to deal with this? Gee I hate plumbing. -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:06:56 PM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: Re: RV-List: small fuel leak You can buy 37 degree 'gaskets' made out of very soft aluminum from aircraft spruce in at least the -4 and -6 sizes. The aluminum is soft enough that it will fill and seal minor imperfections. I have more than one of them in my airplane - they're even on the 'approved' list according to ACS...... ----- Original Message ----- From: thomas sargent To: rv-list Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 6:10 PM Subject: RV-List: small fuel leak At the point of having 0.4 hours on my engine (not flying yet), I have noticed a small fuel leak on one of the fittings on my AFP boost pump. The fitting just gets slightly wet with fuel. It's not fast enough to actually drip. The leak is at one of the flared tubing fittings on the tube that comes out of the "back" of the pump, does quick 180 and goes 6 inches forward to a T. It's leaking at the T. I tried re-torquing the B nut (I use a fish scale on the end of the wrench to get the nominal torque value for the fitting) , but the next day it was wet again - just sitting there. Running the boost pump with the purge valve closed (to pump fuel from the left tank to the right) doesn't seem to provoke it to leak. The next thing to do, I guess, is to remove this short run of tube, examine and clean all the the sealing surfaces and re-assemble it. I'd hate to try to make a new piece of tubing - that short 180 deg. bend would be hard to make. Of course, if I find that a flare has cracked, I'll have no choice. Has any one else had this problem? Is there any better way to deal with this? Gee I hate plumbing. -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.