Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:56 AM - Re: Sensenich Prop (Dale Walter)
2. 07:15 AM - Re: Looking For Parts (Darrell Reiley)
3. 10:28 AM - Re: Sensenich Prop (Reak, Brad)
4. 02:11 PM - Re: Sensenich Prop (George Steube)
5. 03:02 PM - Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... (Matt Dralle)
6. 03:26 PM - Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... ()
7. 03:30 PM - Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... (n801bh@netzero.com)
8. 03:48 PM - Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... (Bob Leffler)
9. 04:55 PM - Re: RV8-List: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... (Carl Froehlich)
10. 06:24 PM - Re: Looking For Parts (Carlos Hernandez)
11. 10:25 PM - RV-6 Kit (R.C. Flyer)
Message 1
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I had same prop at 83" pitch. Static rpm 2200. Got about 2350 rpm at
rotation. Climb at least 1200 fpm warm day South Florida. Max level flight
rpm was 2950. Repitched to 86". Static rpm was 2100. 2250 at rotation. Climb
was only slightly reduced. Full power level rpm was 2750 up to 8000ft. My
cruise climb was 2500 rpm, 500 fpm at 140 knots indicated up to about 4000
feet in standard to 20 degrees warmer than standard. Take offs from Sedona
AZ in August heat were strong, elev 4800. If I had an 85" personally I would
not change it, unless you will be using gross weights above normal 1650 lbs.
Was a great prop, quieter than my new Hartzell, which I like even better.
Dale
RV6A, O-360 A1A, 1280 TT
<dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Sensenich Metal Prop users:
How many of you with the 85 inch pitch props have gotten them re-pitched?
Would you have gone with 83 or 81 inch pitch if you'd known ahead of time?
Is anyone using the 83 or 81 pitch version and what is your experience with
those?
Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Finally warming...S. Florida
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Looking For Parts |
I've got a 4" prop extension that came off of an O320. 512-563-6000
$150
--- On Sun, 2/21/10, R.C. Flyer <smirdrv@hotmail.com> wrote:
> From: R.C. Flyer <smirdrv@hotmail.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Looking For Parts
> To: tailwindforum@yahoogroups.com, rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, February 21, 2010, 10:57 PM
>
>
>
>
>
> Before I go the retail route, I thought I'd check to
> see if anyone has any of the parts I'm looking for
> sitting around: Oil Cooler for an O-320-160, 4"
> Extension for a Steba Wood Prop, 760-Com Radio and
> Transponder, Tach Cable (36"), Eng monitor for EGT/CHT.
> Shoot me a direct line if you have any of these you want to
> get rid of. Thanks.
>
> R.C.
>
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
> Hotmail: Trusted email with
> Microsoft9226/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign
> up now.
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Sensenich Prop |
I have an RV7 with a Superior O360,180hp with the same Sensenich prop.
My static RPM reads 2150 at my field elevation of 5000ft. During
takeoff, the RPM quickly comes up to about 2400 RPM and in climbout, I
see about 2450-2500 RPM. At level flight from 6000ft to the high teens
the engine easily exceed 2700 RPM. If I were to repitch the prop, it
would be to a greater pitch, not less and would never go the 83 or 81.
Sorry but I don't have much operational experience at sea level, however
I would expect better performance than what I see here in Colorado and I
am quite pleased with my performance. During testing, I concluded Vy
= 90 knots and that I expect about 1500 fpm at 1600 pounds.
--Brad
Message 4
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Hi Dean,
I have this prop on an RV-8 with a Mattituck O-360, and my experience is
that I need more pitch. I can easily get to red line in level flight, say
8000 ft. Our grass field has been under water since before Christmas so I
can't really say what static take off rpm is but as a guess I would guess
around 2200. I would have it re-pitched but I am too lazy.
I looked on the Sensenich web site and didn't see anything about a recall,
what was that about?
Regards,
George
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DEAN PSIROPOULOS
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 10:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: Sensenich Prop
<dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Sensenich Metal Prop users:
I have a 72FM85 (72 length x 85 pitch) metal prop for parallel valve 0-360.
I installed the prop a while back to solve what turned out to be a problem
with the FI system. When the prop didn't fix the problem I did more testing
and static running with it to finally figure it out. I discovered that at
full throttle (ground run) the tach showed only 2100 RPM. I didn't get a
chance to fly with that prop because it was recalled before the FI system
was fixed and I had to take it off the airplane. I've been flying with my
Sterba wood prop which gives 2300 RPM static and 2550 RPM full power at 1000
MSL (level flight).
I want to reinstall the Sensenich prop but am thinking that 2100 max RPM at
takeoff is a little low. Van's catalog listed this prop as the ONLY one they
recommended for the 0-360 engine. The Sensenich website lists two other
(0-360) props (83 and 81 pitch) and if my Sterba is any indication, I
probably should have at least went with the 83 pitch instead of the 85.
I know there are a lot of these props out in the RV community...those of you
that have them on 180HP O-360s:
Are you getting this low of RPM on takeoff (2100 static)?
What kind of takeoff distances are you seeing (light and fully loaded)?
Does the RPM pick up quickly as the plane starts moving on the runway?
By the time your at the end of the takeoff roll does the RPM exceed 2100?
Will there be any harm done to the engine running full throttle at 600RPM
below rated power RPM (detonation, overheating, etc, low power is a given)?
How many of you with the 85 inch pitch props have gotten them re-pitched?
Would you have gone with 83 or 81 inch pitch if you'd known ahead of time?
Is anyone using the 83 or 81 pitch version and what is your experience with
those?
Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Finally warming...S. Florida
Message 5
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Subject: | Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
Greetings fellow builders,
In the manual, Van's describes a procedure of mixing some resin 1:1 with acetone
to form a thin coating for the OUTSIDE of the cowling to make a filler for the
pin holes and other surface imperfections. Seems straightforward enough.
But what about the INSIDE of the cowling? That open weave seems like its going
to soak up any oil and whatnot that runs out of these leaky 'ol Lycomings.
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Blog
Finishing up...
Message 6
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Subject: | Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
Hi Matt,
In practical terms the fibreglass is pretty impervious to oil leaks. I just use
a bit of degreaser to wash the inside of the cowls at 100hr inspection times
and everything stays pretty clean. The extra weight of all that additional fibreglass
just isn't worth it in the long run.
If it really worries you buy an English Wheel and a TIG welder and make a set of
new cowls out of aluminium. :-)
Good luck
John Morrissey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Tuesday, 23 February 2010 9:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling...
Greetings fellow builders,
In the manual, Van's describes a procedure of mixing some resin 1:1 with acetone
to form a thin coating for the OUTSIDE of the cowling to make a filler for the
pin holes and other surface imperfections. Seems straightforward enough.
But what about the INSIDE of the cowling? That open weave seems like its going
to soak up any oil and whatnot that runs out of these leaky 'ol Lycomings.
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Blog
Finishing up...
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
Matt. On my experimental I had the same thoughts but went ahead and laye
d two thick coats of paint on the inside.... You can barely see the weav
ing of the substrate but it will wick up oil, and any other liquid that
drips on it.. if I had to do it over again I would skim coat it with som
ething to make that surface alot smoother.. Now's the time to do it, not
after it gets impregnated with oil.
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
m
Subject: RV-List: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling...
Greetings fellow builders,
In the manual, Van's describes a procedure of mixing some resin 1:1 with
acetone to form a thin coating for the OUTSIDE of the cowling to make a
filler for the pin holes and other surface imperfections. Seems straig
htforward enough.
But what about the INSIDE of the cowling? That open weave seems like it
s going to soak up any oil and whatnot that runs out of these leaky 'ol
Lycomings.
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Blog
Finishing up...
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Message 8
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Subject: | Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
Just a coincidence, but I was reading an article from "27 Years of RVator"
this morning that described just that. It talked about when they transition
to the current honeycomb cowls in which the top skins were thinner than the
original cowls. The article recommended thinning the epoxy for fuel/oil and
adding a thin piece of insulation material for heat.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 5:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling...
Greetings fellow builders,
In the manual, Van's describes a procedure of mixing some resin 1:1 with
acetone to form a thin coating for the OUTSIDE of the cowling to make a
filler for the pin holes and other surface imperfections. Seems
straightforward enough.
But what about the INSIDE of the cowling? That open weave seems like its
going to soak up any oil and whatnot that runs out of these leaky 'ol
Lycomings.
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Blog
Finishing up...
Message 9
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Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
Recommend just priming with white epoxy primer (e.g.PPG). The primer will
seal the fiberglass and will reflect some heat. This is what I did on my 8A
and it is holding up well.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 5:58 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling...
--> RV8-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Greetings fellow builders,
In the manual, Van's describes a procedure of mixing some resin 1:1 with
acetone to form a thin coating for the OUTSIDE of the cowling to make a
filler for the pin holes and other surface imperfections. Seems
straightforward enough.
But what about the INSIDE of the cowling? That open weave seems like its
going to soak up any oil and whatnot that runs out of these leaky 'ol
Lycomings.
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Blog
Finishing up...
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Looking For Parts |
I have a Narco AT150 transponder that I just got back after having it
throughly checked by the avionics shop. I've updated to the Garmin 320A.
Let me know if this is something your interested in and then we can chat
about price.
Carlos Hernandez
Cell - 623.810.5675
R.C. Flyer wrote:
> Before I go the retail route, I thought I'd check to see if anyone has
> any of the parts I'm looking for sitting around: Oil Cooler for an
> O-320-160, 4" Extension for a Steba Wood Prop, 760-Com Radio and
> Transponder, Tach Cable (36"), Eng monitor for EGT/CHT. Shoot me a
> direct line if you have any of these you want to get rid of. Thanks.
> R.C.
>
> do not archive
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft9226/direct/01/'
> target='_new'>Sign up now.
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 11
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I have two Projects in flow and have decided to release one to complete the
other. If anyone is interested=2C I have a pair of wings assembled with Ph
logisten built spars=2C Assembled Tail Section w/electric trim=2C Fuselage
kit with the firewall assembled. $15K invested. Reasonable offers will be c
onsidered.
R.C.
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