Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:42 AM - Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... (Rick Galati)
2. 04:22 AM - Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... (rv6n@optonline.net)
3. 05:53 AM - Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... (John Morgensen)
4. 06:51 AM - Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... (Valovich, Paul)
5. 08:31 AM - Oil door hinges (Mauri Morin)
6. 09:02 AM - IO-320 Power Chart (Paul Besing)
7. 10:35 AM - calibrating capacitive sensors (thomas sargent)
8. 10:48 AM - Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... (Doug Gray)
9. 11:03 AM - Re: IO-320 Power Chart (Doug Gray)
10. 11:13 AM - Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... (HCRV6@comcast.net)
11. 11:13 AM - Re: IO-320 Power Chart (Doug Gray)
12. 11:13 AM - Re: Oil door hinges (David Cudney)
13. 12:56 PM - Re: calibrating capacitive sensors (Bret Smith)
14. 01:05 PM - Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... (Chuck Weyant)
15. 02:05 PM - Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... (rv6n@optonline.net)
16. 02:51 PM - Re: calibrating capacitive sensors (Linn Walters)
17. 03:07 PM - Re: IO-320 Power Chart (Matt Dralle)
18. 04:31 PM - Re: IO-320 Power Chart (Doug Gray)
19. 10:15 PM - Re: IO-320 Power Chart (Paul Besing)
Message 1
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| Subject: | re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
-
Many builders including me,-coat the inside of the cowls over a period of
time-using epoxy-left over from other jobs.--By using epoxy-that
-might otherwise-be wasted, the inside cowl surfaces can be sealed in p
hases over a period of time. Some guys thin the epoxy, others don't.-Occa
sionally I did thin it, most times I did not.--The result is a smooth s
ealed surface that is easily wiped clean of-inevitable dirt and oils that
are certain to-accumulate while at the same time-providing an excellen
t-bonding surface for the sticky adhesive-found on-heat resistant foi
l that you-probably will have to install anyway.-
-
[IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/6p5n9x.jpg[/IMG]
-
Rick Galati
RV-6A- N307R
RV-8--- N308R
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
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| Subject: | Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
Is the self adhesive foil insulated or just reflective?
John Morgensen
RV4 - Purchased flying
RV9A - wiring
rv6n@optonline.net wrote:
> Matt,
>
> I did the thinned epoxy smear and also made an aluminum heat shield
> with and air pocket under it for where I felt the exhaust was a bit
> too close for comfort. I also painted the inside and applied the self
> adhesive foil for added protection. I have attached a photo.
>
> Bob Bales
> RV6
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
I am just finishing-finishing my -8A cowl and have assembled a list of some
what obvious and some "life is harder when you're stupid" lessons learned.
1. Fitting - pretty straight forward - but remember the firewall is n
ot straight, it has a horizontal bend in it - a bend that is hidden when th
e cowl is first taped in place to mark for cutting. One might forget that b
end and mark and cut with a straight line. Ask me how I know! Ended up with
a gap, but used epoxy/micro on the fus to fill in.
2. Gear leg attach - mine didn't fit. Had to bend and cut the bracket
to get it to work.
3. I hate piano hinges not so much hate, but really have difficulty
getting the pins to slide in and out - so I went came up with the $$ and we
nt with Skybolt fasteners. No regrets.
4. If using Skybolts, pay attention and understand the fitting of the
attachment strips to avoid visible gaps.
5. Skyboltss - really understand how to adjust the receptacle depth.
Another one of those things where the RV gremlins seem to appear overnight
to change what you thought was a perfect adjustment.
6. I installed the Skybolts, hung the cowl(s) then had to depart for
couple months on business travel. During that time some preservative oil f
rom the engine leaked and was absorbed by the lower cowl. Painting with epo
xy/acetone is a good idea.
7. Pinholes - friggin' randomly appearing pinholes. Tried Vans recomm
ended 50/50 acetone/epoxy on the outside. Looked ok with some pinholes - bu
t when I covered with primer, it was obvious that many pinholes were still
here. Ended up with multi-coats of smoothprime, second coat of epoxy, more
smoothprime, hours of sanding and finally a couple coats of dark grey prime
r. No pinholes - but a high minutes/pinhole ratio.
8. Now on to the oil door - anyone know why Wicks charges around $11
for a Hartwell hinge, but ACS charges $80+? Obviously a difference in quali
ty / durability - but does it matter? Anyone know of other good sources?
Paul Valovich
N192NM Reserved
Message 5
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Concealed HingesPaul
Check these out.
I used these and it turned out well
Mauri Morin
Polson, MT
RV-8
Site Map
Help
ISO 9000
News
We now carry Black Nitrate Rod gas springs. See our gas springs menu.
Concealed Hinges
Guden's standard concealed hinges are available in type 1008-1010
plain steel, type 304 stainless steel, and type 5052-H34 Aluminum.
Aluminum hinges have type 303 stainless pins. Call for detailed drawings
and samples.
links to technical drawing in pdf format
Items shown in gray are not normally stocked, contact us for
availability.
All dimensions are in inches. links to online price
quotation
Item Length Thickness Material Rib
NHAL9290 .80 .075 Aluminum with
Stainless Pin N
NHPS9290 .80 .075 Plain Steel N
NHSS9290 .80 .075 Stainless Steel N
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NHAL9291 1.25 .090 Aluminum with
Stainless Pin Y
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Message 6
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| Subject: | IO-320 Power Chart |
Does anyone have any performance numbers for an IO-320 and a Constant Speed
prop?- Power settings, fuel burn, etc?=0A=0AThanks!=0APaul Besing=0A=0A
=0A=0A
Message 7
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| Subject: | calibrating capacitive sensors |
I have the Princeton fuel level sensors and am approaching first flight of
my 6A. I'm having trouble figuring out how to calibrate these things before
the first flight. The problem is you have to fill the tank completely. The
first flight shouldn't be done with full tanks, so I have to fill them and
then empty them before I fly.
The only thing I can think of is to install a petcock kind of valve in place
of the normal tank fuel drain valve and get four 5gal. gas cans to drain
the fuel into. Fill the left tank and calibrate it, then drain the fuel
out, re-install the normal drain valve and pour it into the right tank and
calibrate that and then drain the fuel out of it and re-install the drain
valve.
Is there any better way? I assume I have to have calibrated (i.e.
functioning) fuel gauges in order to make the first flight, yes?
--
Tom Sargent
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
Mat,
Do not thin West Systems Epoxy with acetone! I found it turns the epoxy
into a chewing gum like mass that never sets up.
Use it as mixed with slow hardener and brush it on thin. Thinning was
unnecessary but it can be warmed slightly to help it to flow. It is more
akin to squeegee-ing with the side of the brush. This works very well
in my opinion.
I'm sure I added less than 1:1 in acetone - or perhaps the West systems
product is different in this country, I don't understand why this
happened with mine. Fortunately I experimented before using it on the
cowling.
Doug
On Mon, 2010-02-22 at 14:57 -0800, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Greetings fellow builders,
>
> In the manual, Van's describes a procedure of mixing some resin 1:1
> with acetone to form a thin coating for the OUTSIDE of the cowling to
> make a filler for the pin holes and other surface imperfections.
> Seems straightforward enough.
>
> But what about the INSIDE of the cowling? That open weave seems like
> its going to soak up any oil and whatnot that runs out of these leaky
> 'ol Lycomings.
>
> Thoughts?
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: IO-320 Power Chart |
Paul,
The attached table was derived using Kevin Horten's python code (thanks
Kevin) but with the parameters taken from the IO320D&E chart in the OM.
The figures marry up to the charts within the accuracy of my eyesight.
Is this what you were after?
Doug Gray
On Tue, 2010-02-23 at 08:53 -0800, Paul Besing wrote:
> Does anyone have any performance numbers for an IO-320 and a Constant
> Speed prop? Power settings, fuel burn, etc?
>
> Thanks!
> Paul Besing
>
>
>
>
>
Lycoming IO-320-B and D Series (derived from Lycoming Curve No. 12884-A Jan1977)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Press. | Std. | 88 HP -- 55% Rated | 104 HP -- 65% Rated | 120
HP -- 75% Rated |
| Alt. | Alt. | Approx. Fuel 7.5 Gal/Hr | Approx. Fuel 8.5 Gal/Hr. | Approx.
Fuel 10 Gal/Hr |
| |Temp. | | |
|
| Feet |deg F | RPM & Man. Press. | RPM & Man. Press. | RPM
& Man. Press. |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| | | 2100 | 2200 | 2300 | 2400 | 2100 | 2200 | 2300 | 2400 | 2300
| 2400 | 2500 | 2600 |
| 0| 59| 22.5 | 21.8 | 21.1 | 20.4 | 25.1 | 24.2 | 23.4 | 22.7 | 25.7
| 24.9 | 24.3 | 23.7 |
| 1000| 55| 22.2 | 21.4 | 20.8 | 20.1 | 24.7 | 23.9 | 23.1 | 22.4 | 25.4
| 24.6 | 24.0 | 23.4 |
| 2000| 51| 21.8 | 21.1 | 20.5 | 19.8 | 24.4 | 23.6 | 22.8 | 22.1 | 25.1
| 24.3 | 23.7 | 23.1 |
| 3000| 48| 21.5 | 20.8 | 20.2 | 19.5 | 24.0 | 23.2 | 22.5 | 21.8 | 24.8
| 24.0 | 23.4 | 22.9 |
| 4000| 44| 21.2 | 20.5 | 19.9 | 19.3 | 23.7 | 22.9 | 22.2 | 21.5 | 24.4
| 23.7 | 23.1 | 22.6 |
| 5000| 41| 20.9 | 20.2 | 19.6 | 19.0 | 23.4 | 22.6 | 21.9 | 21.2 | 24.1
| 23.4 | 22.8 | 22.4 |
| 6000| 37| 20.5 | 19.9 | 19.3 | 18.7 | 23.1 | 22.4 | 21.6 | 20.9 | FT
| 23.1 | 22.6 | 22.1 |
| 7000| 34| 20.2 | 19.7 | 19.0 | 18.5 | FT | 22.1 | 21.3 | 20.7 | FT
| FT | 22.3 | 21.9 |
| 8000| 30| 20.0 | 19.4 | 18.8 | 18.2 | FT | FT | 21.1 | 20.4 | FT
| FT | FT | FT |
| 9000| 26| 19.7 | 19.1 | 18.5 | 18.0 | FT | FT | FT | 20.2 | FT
| FT | FT | FT |
| 10000| 23| 19.4 | 18.9 | 18.3 | 17.8 | FT | FT | FT | FT | FT
| FT | FT | FT |
| 11000| 19| FT | 18.6 | 18.1 | 17.5 | FT | FT | FT | FT | FT
| FT | FT | FT |
| 12000| 16| FT | FT | 17.8 | 17.3 | FT | FT | FT | FT | FT
| FT | FT | FT |
| 13000| 12| FT | FT | FT | 17.1 | FT | FT | FT | FT | FT
| FT | FT | FT |
| 14000| 9| FT | FT | FT | FT | FT | FT | FT | FT | FT
| FT | FT | FT |
| 15000| 5| FT | FT | FT | FT | FT | FT | FT | FT | FT
| FT | FT | FT |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
Same thing happened for me when I tried to thin Tap brand epoxy with acetone. Took
me days to scrape the mess out. I wound up doing it the same way Doug describes
below.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 662 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 10:45:18 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV-List: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling...
Mat,
Do not thin West Systems Epoxy with acetone! I found it turns the epoxy into a
chewing gum like mass that never sets up.
Use it as mixed with slow hardener and brush it on thin. Thinning was unnecessary
but it can be warmed slightly to help it to flow. It is more akin to squeegee-ing
with the side of the brush. This works very well in my opinion.
I'm sure I added less than 1:1 in acetone - or perhaps the West systems product
is different in this country, I don't understand why this happened with mine.
Fortunately I experimented before using it on the cowling. Doug
On Mon, 2010-02-22 at 14:57 -0800, Matt Dralle wrote:
Greetings fellow builders,
In the manual, Van's describes a procedure of mixing some resin 1:1 with acetone
to form a thin coating for the OUTSIDE of the cowling to make a filler for the
pin holes and other surface imperfections. Seems straightforward enough.
But what about the INSIDE of the cowling? That open weave seems like its going
to soak up any oil and whatnot that runs out of these leaky 'ol Lycomings.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: IO-320 Power Chart |
Correction IO-320-B , -D , AIO-320 and LIO-320-B
On Wed, 2010-02-24 at 06:02 +1100, Doug Gray wrote:
> Paul,
>
> The attached table was derived using Kevin Horten's python code (thanks
> Kevin) but with the parameters taken from the IO320D&E chart in the OM.
> The figures marry up to the charts within the accuracy of my eyesight.
>
> Is this what you were after?
>
> Doug Gray
>
>
>
> On Tue, 2010-02-23 at 08:53 -0800, Paul Besing wrote:
> > Does anyone have any performance numbers for an IO-320 and a Constant
> > Speed prop? Power settings, fuel burn, etc?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Paul Besing
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Oil door hinges |
I tried pre-made hinges-- but had better luck making my own.
dave
RV7A 144 hours
On Feb 23, 2010, at 8:29 AM, Mauri Morin wrote:
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: calibrating capacitive sensors |
That's how I did mine.
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 12:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: calibrating capacitive sensors
I have the Princeton fuel level sensors and am approaching first
flight of my 6A. I'm having trouble figuring out how to calibrate these
things before the first flight. The problem is you have to fill the
tank completely. The first flight shouldn't be done with full tanks, so
I have to fill them and then empty them before I fly.
The only thing I can think of is to install a petcock kind of valve in
place of the normal tank fuel drain valve and get four 5gal. gas cans
to drain the fuel into. Fill the left tank and calibrate it, then drain
the fuel out, re-install the normal drain valve and pour it into the
right tank and calibrate that and then drain the fuel out of it and
re-install the drain valve.
Is there any better way? I assume I have to have calibrated (i.e.
functioning) fuel gauges in order to make the first flight, yes?
--
Tom Sargent
Message 14
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| Subject: | Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
Mix plain epoxy resin/hardner. Lightly sand inside of cowling. Wipe with
clean cloth soaked in alcohol. Paint on epoxy resin mix.
Worked beautifully on both my Ten and Nine. Move on to next step in the
building process.
Chuck
Hi Matt,
In practical terms the fibreglass is pretty impervious to oil leaks. I just
use a bit of degreaser to wash the inside of the cowls at 100hr inspection
times and everything stays pretty clean. The extra weight of all that
additional fibreglass just isn't worth it in the long run.
If it really worries you buy an English Wheel and a TIG welder and make a
set of new cowls out of aluminium. :-)
Good luck
John Morrissey
Greetings fellow builders,
In the manual, Van's describes a procedure of mixing some resin 1:1 with
acetone to form a thin coating for the OUTSIDE of the cowling to make a
filler for the pin holes and other surface imperfections. Seems
straightforward enough.
But what about the INSIDE of the cowling? That open weave seems like its
going to soak up any oil and whatnot that runs out of these leaky 'ol
Lycomings.
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Blog
Finishing up...
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Adding Thinned Resin To INSIDE Of Cowling... |
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: calibrating capacitive sensors |
IMHO, you should calibrate the zero (empty) point, put the amount of
fuel you're comfortable with and do your first flight. When you're
comfortable with putting full fuel in it, do so and calibrate the full
tank.
My first flight in my Pitts was an hour. I guess I was too afraid of
the landing <G> and had plenty of fuel.
Estimate your first flight time, and double the fuel needed for that
time .... and when your time is up .... be on the ground.
Linn
thomas sargent wrote:
> I have the Princeton fuel level sensors and am approaching first flight
> of my 6A. I'm having trouble figuring out how to calibrate these things
> before the first flight. The problem is you have to fill the tank
> completely. The first flight shouldn't be done with full tanks, so I
> have to fill them and then empty them before I fly.
>
> The only thing I can think of is to install a petcock kind of valve in
> place of the normal tank fuel drain valve and get four 5gal. gas cans
> to drain the fuel into. Fill the left tank and calibrate it, then drain
> the fuel out, re-install the normal drain valve and pour it into the
> right tank and calibrate that and then drain the fuel out of it and
> re-install the drain valve.
>
> Is there any better way? I assume I have to have calibrated (i.e.
> functioning) fuel gauges in order to make the first flight, yes?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: IO-320 Power Chart |
That is a sweet chart. I assume this is the information you can put into EFIS's
like the GRT HX to readout real time power? I haven't actually looked at this
configuration yet on the HX.
Has anyone run a chart for an IO-390?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Building Blog
Finishing Up...
?At 11:02 AM 2/23/2010 Tuesday, you wrote:
>Paul,
>
>The attached table was derived using Kevin Horten's python code (thanks
>Kevin) but with the parameters taken from the IO320D&E chart in the OM.
>The figures marry up to the charts within the accuracy of my eyesight.
>
>Is this what you were after?
>
>Doug Gray
>
>
>On Tue, 2010-02-23 at 08:53 -0800, Paul Besing wrote:
>> Does anyone have any performance numbers for an IO-320 and a Constant
>> Speed prop? Power settings, fuel burn, etc?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Paul Besing
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: IO-320 Power Chart |
I believe the GRT units take the data in a different form - see the
GRT_EFIS Yahoo group has a number of such tables. I don't have a GRT
EFIS so I cannot give a more detailed response.
Kevin Horton's algorithm computes the power by interpolating the
Lycoming plots and doing some pressure altitude corrections
arithmetically.
The Lycoming plots are believed to be the product of extensive engine
tests and I assume are accurate BUT only for the respective engines. I
doubt such plots will ever be available for the 390 or any other
modified or experimental engine. BPE is one company that does test
engine modifications and may have done some tests. Even if they have I
doubt these would be anywhere near the extent necessary to generate the
Lycoming style plots. Further ... the chances that your 390 would be
the same as any test article is extremely small.
Doug
On Tue, 2010-02-23 at 15:02 -0800, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> That is a sweet chart. I assume this is the information you can put into EFIS's
like the GRT HX to readout real time power? I haven't actually looked at
this configuration yet on the HX.
>
> Has anyone run a chart for an IO-390?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Building Blog
> Finishing Up...
>
>
> ?At 11:02 AM 2/23/2010 Tuesday, you wrote:
> >Paul,
> >
> >The attached table was derived using Kevin Horten's python code (thanks
> >Kevin) but with the parameters taken from the IO320D&E chart in the OM.
> >The figures marry up to the charts within the accuracy of my eyesight.
> >
> >Is this what you were after?
> >
> >Doug Gray
> >
> >
> >
> >On Tue, 2010-02-23 at 08:53 -0800, Paul Besing wrote:
> >> Does anyone have any performance numbers for an IO-320 and a Constant
> >> Speed prop? Power settings, fuel burn, etc?
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >> Paul Besing
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: IO-320 Power Chart |
Thanks very much, Doug.
Paul Besing
do not archive
________________________________
From: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Sent: Tue, February 23, 2010 5:29:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: IO-320 Power Chart
I believe the GRT units take the data in a different form - see the GRT_EFIS Yahoo
group has a number of such tables. I don't have a GRT EFIS so I cannot give
a more detailed response.
Kevin Horton's algorithm computes the power by interpolating the Lycoming plots
and doing some pressure altitude corrections arithmetically.
The Lycoming plots are believed to be the product of extensive engine tests and
I assume are accurate BUT only for the respective engines. I doubt such plots
will ever be available for the 390 or any other modified or experimental engine.
BPE is one company that does test engine modifications and may have done
some tests. Even if they have I doubt these would be anywhere near the extent
necessary to generate the Lycoming style plots. Further ... the chances that
your 390 would be the same as any test article is extremely small.
Doug
On Tue, 2010-02-23 at 15:02 -0800, Matt Dralle wrote:
>That is a sweet chart. I assume this is the information you can put into EFIS's
like the GRT HX to readout real time power? I haven't actually looked at this
configuration yet on the HX.
>Has anyone run a chart for an IO-390?
>Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Building Blog Finishing Up...
>
>?At 11:02 AM 2/23/2010 Tuesday, you wrote: >Paul, > >The attached table was derived
using Kevin Horten's python code (thanks >Kevin) but with the parameters
taken from the IO320D&E chart in the OM. >The figures marry up to the charts
within the accuracy of my eyesight. > >Is this what you were after? > >Doug Gray
> > > >On Tue, 2010-02-23 at 08:53 -0800, Paul Besing wrote: >> Does anyone
have any performance numbers for an IO-320 and a Constant >> Speed prop? Power
settings, fuel burn, etc? >> >> Thanks! >> Paul Besing
>
>
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