Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:15 AM - baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures (Frazier, Vincent A)
2. 07:54 AM - Re: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures (Kelly McMullen)
3. 08:05 AM - Re: [Bulk] Re: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures (Linn Walters)
4. 11:06 AM - Re: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures (Jim Jewell)
5. 07:33 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10 (Tony Speranza)
6. 08:09 PM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10 (Larry Bowen)
7. 08:11 PM - high CHTs (Linn Walters)
Message 1
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| Subject: | baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures |
SNIP Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baffle-to-engine
areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary?
Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation. :-(
If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to use?
SNIP
*******************************************************************************************************
Air leaks = more drag. How fast do you want to go.
I've got red silicone plugging every air leak that I can find and I've never, ever
had anyone comment on how the silicone looks when I roar past them. It may
not be pretty but it WORKS.
FWIW, a very often overlooked, LARGE air leak occurs at the bottom aft edge of
the rear cylinders where they meet the case. There is often a huge, very hard
to see hole there. Stick a flashlight back under and behind the cylinders and
shine it up and forward. I'll bet you find a huge hole there. If nothing else,
plug those! IMHO, this is a possible reason that many rear cylinders are
unnecessarily hot.
For other tips on curing hot cylinders please see http://www.vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm
The top of the page is devoted to two common heat issues on Lycomings.
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
www.vincesrocket.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures |
Be very careful what you seal up. #2 and #3 cylinders MUST have air on
the intake port side, which is the side against the baffles. You need a
minimum 1/8" gap between cylinder head and baffle there, probably 3/16
would be better. Lycoming does not cast any fins on the cylinder head on
the intake port side. If you seal that, your cylinder will run 40-50
degrees hotter. It is a well known issue with Lycoming engines.
Kelly
A&P/IA
On 3/29/2010 7:08 AM, Frazier, Vincent A wrote:
> SNIP Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baffle-to-engine
areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary?
> FWIW, a very often overlooked, LARGE air leak occurs at the bottom aft edge of
the rear cylinders where they meet the case. There is often a huge, very hard
to see hole there. Stick a flashlight back under and behind the cylinders
and shine it up and forward. I'll bet you find a huge hole there. If nothing
else, plug those! IMHO, this is a possible reason that many rear cylinders are
unnecessarily hot.
>
> For other tips on curing hot cylinders please see http://www.vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm
> The top of the page is devoted to two common heat issues on Lycomings.
>
> Vince
> www.flyboyaccessories.com
> www.vincesrocket.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures |
Another well-known issue is the flashing down between the fins around
the spark plug. Take the flashlight (see Vince below) or a droplight
and put below the cylinder and look down between the fins. A small
needle file will clean up the flashing. I've also heard of people using
a drywall cutting bit in there.
Linn
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Be very careful what you seal up. #2 and #3 cylinders MUST have air on
> the intake port side, which is the side against the baffles. You need
> a minimum 1/8" gap between cylinder head and baffle there, probably
> 3/16 would be better. Lycoming does not cast any fins on the cylinder
> head on the intake port side. If you seal that, your cylinder will run
> 40-50 degrees hotter. It is a well known issue with Lycoming engines.
> Kelly
> A&P/IA
> On 3/29/2010 7:08 AM, Frazier, Vincent A wrote:
>
>> SNIP Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around
>> the baffle-to-engine areas, what is the recommendation here? Is
>> sealant absolutely necessary?
>
>> FWIW, a very often overlooked, LARGE air leak occurs at the bottom
>> aft edge of the rear cylinders where they meet the case. There is
>> often a huge, very hard to see hole there. Stick a flashlight back
>> under and behind the cylinders and shine it up and forward. I'll bet
>> you find a huge hole there. If nothing else, plug those! IMHO, this
>> is a possible reason that many rear cylinders are unnecessarily hot.
>>
>> For other tips on curing hot cylinders please see
>> http://www.vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm
>> The top of the page is devoted to two common heat issues on Lycomings.
>>
>> Vince
>> www.flyboyaccessories.com
>> www.vincesrocket.com
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures |
For the 'would be' show quality builders, {[;-)
With a little extra care and attention to detail using masking tape and an
exacto blade the RTV can be done very neatly. I bought a roll of the blue
silicone baffle seal material. It is extra cost but worth every dime spent.
The blue automotive RTV gasket sealer color matches and bonds very well to
the baffle seal material. Have a look at the Firewall forward section at;
http://www3.telus.net/public/a6a36537/index.htm
It only took a day or so to get all the blue stuff off the finger tips.
I can supply close ups,
Jim in Kelowna
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frazier, Vincent A
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 7:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures
SNIP Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the
baffle-to-engine areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant
absolutely necessary?
Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation. :-(
If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to
use? SNIP
****************************************************************************
***************************
Air leaks = more drag. How fast do you want to go.
I've got red silicone plugging every air leak that I can find and I've
never, ever had anyone comment on how the silicone looks when I roar past
them. It may not be pretty but it WORKS.
FWIW, a very often overlooked, LARGE air leak occurs at the bottom aft edge
of the rear cylinders where they meet the case. There is often a huge, very
hard to see hole there. Stick a flashlight back under and behind the
cylinders and shine it up and forward. I'll bet you find a huge hole there.
If nothing else, plug those! IMHO, this is a possible reason that many rear
cylinders are unnecessarily hot.
For other tips on curing hot cylinders please see
http://www.vincesrocket..com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm
The top of the page is devoted to two common heat issues on Lycomings.
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
www.vincesrocket.com
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10 |
-
I've been struggling with high cylinder head temperatures for 2+ years...I
have tried everything.- Stock RV cowling & exhaust installation: TMX-O360
180hp-with Carb, Lightspeed & slick mag.- I can see CHT's in 430F rang
e or much higher if I did NOT manage power.- Mixture & timing correct.-
Openned up intake & exhaust areas.- Resealed w/silicone material (replac
ed black stuff) - tight fit.- Plugged all the little holes w/red RTV.-
Sealed & recontoured in-let ramps.- Spark plugs the coolest offered...I a
m measureing with Dynon FlightDek 180 and-all TCs-match-exactly & agr
ee with ambient temperature (0 to 100 F).- Everyone that looks at it says
"looks good, shold cool OK?".- I am running out of ideas and would appre
ciate any feedback or ideas.- Thanks...Tony
--- On Mon, 3/29/10, RV-List Digest Server <rv-list@matronics.com> wrote:
From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10
*
========================
---Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below.- The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation.- The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
- - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View
=html&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV
Text Version:
- - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View
=txt&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV
======================
---EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
======================
- - - - -----------------------------------------------------
--------
- - - - - - - - - - - - ---RV-List Digest Arc
hive
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
---
- - - - - - - - - ---Total Messages Posted Sun 03/2
8/10: 5
- - - - -----------------------------------------------------
--------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
- ---1. 09:25 AM - Sealing Around Engine Baffles...- (Matt Dralle
)
- ---2. 12:00 PM - Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...- (Rick Ga
lati)
- ---3. 12:24 PM - Re: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...- (Bru
ce Gray)
- ---4. 12:25 PM - Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...- (RV6 Fly
er)
- ---5. 07:20 PM - Re: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...- (Dav
id Cudney)
________________________________- Message 1- __________________________
___________
Time: 09:25:41 AM PST US
From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
Dear Listers,
Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baffle
-to-engine
areas, what is the recommendation here?- Is sealant absolutely necessary?
Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation.- :-(
If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to
use?
About all I could find on ACS was this:
-----http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php
At least it comes in Black to match my engine... ;-)
Feedback would be most appreciated.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog
Moved to hanger, wings attached permanently....
________________________________- Message 2- __________________________
___________
Time: 12:00:36 PM PST US
From: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
I used-red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies.- In serv
ice for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever.
-
[IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG]
________________________________- Message 3- __________________________
___________
Time: 12:24:57 PM PST US
From: "Bruce Gray" <bgray@glasair.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
I'd fly the airplane first to see if I had any cylinder temp problems.
If I did then I would go with the RTV.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 2:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies.- In
service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever.
[IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG]
________________________________- Message 4- __________________________
___________
Time: 12:25:15 PM PST US
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
Necessary?- Maybe yes maybe no. If your engine runs hot=2C it is necess
ary.
If your engine runs cold=2C maybe not.
I used BLACK Permatex Silicone from PepBoys.- My baffles are painted blac
k
and so is my engine.- I know guys that have used bath tube or kitchen RTV
.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C342+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
> Date: Sun=2C 28 Mar 2010 09:23:59 -0700
> To: rv-list@matronics.com=3B rv7-list@matronics.com=3B rv8-list@matro
nics
.com
> From: dralle@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
>
>
>
> Dear Listers=2C
>
> Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baff
le-to-engine areas=2C what is the recommendation here?- Is sealant abso
lute
ly necessary?- Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installat
io
n.- :-(
>
> If it is an absolute requirement=2C what are some suggestions on materi
al
to use?
>
> About all I could find on ACS was this:
>
> -----http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php
>
> At least it comes in Black to match my engine... =3B-)
>
> Feedback would be most appreciated.
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog
> Moved to hanger=2C wings attached permanently....
>
>
>
>
>
--- -------- ------ --- -
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inbox.
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________________________________- Message 5- __________________________
___________
Time: 07:20:48 PM PST US
From: David Cudney <yenduc@me.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
I also used red, high temp RTV---I sorta like the purdy red color.- I-
also put louvers on the bottom of the lower cowl to aid in cooling ----
probably was over kill as the engine runs very cool even in climb on-
hot days.
dave
On Mar 28, 2010, at 11:58 AM, Rick Galati wrote:
> I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies.- In-
> service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever.
>
> [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG]
>
>
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10 |
I had a similar setup and similar temps. Never really found a 'cure', I
just managed it. Do you stay WOT during the climb? Have you looked into
rejetting the carb?
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Tue, Mar 30, 2010 at 3:31 AM, Tony Speranza <asperanz@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> I've been struggling with high cylinder head temperatures for 2+ years...I
> have tried everything. Stock RV cowling & exhaust installation: TMX-O360
> 180hp with Carb, Lightspeed & slick mag. I can see CHT's in 430F range or
> much higher if I did NOT manage power. Mixture & timing correct. Openned
> up intake & exhaust areas. Resealed w/silicone material (replaced black
> stuff) - tight fit. Plugged all the little holes w/red RTV. Sealed &
> recontoured in-let ramps. Spark plugs the coolest offered...I am measureing
> with Dynon FlightDek 180 and all TCs match exactly & agree with ambient
> temperature (0 to 100 F). Everyone that looks at it says "looks good, shold
> cool OK?". I am running out of ideas and would appreciate any feedback or
> ideas. Thanks...Tony
>
> --- On *Mon, 3/29/10, RV-List Digest Server <rv-list@matronics.com>*wrote:
>
>
> From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10
> To: "RV-List Digest List" <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
> Date: Monday, March 29, 2010, 2:59 AM
>
> *
>
> ========================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ========================
>
> Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV
>
> Text Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV
>
>
> ======================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ======================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 03/28/10: 5
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 09:25 AM - Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (Matt Dralle)
> 2. 12:00 PM - Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (Rick Galati)
> 3. 12:24 PM - Re: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (Bruce Gray)
> 4. 12:25 PM - Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (RV6 Flyer)
> 5. 07:20 PM - Re: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (David Cudney)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:25:41 AM PST US
> From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=dralle@matronics.com>
> >
> Subject: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the
> baffle-to-engine
> areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary?
> Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation. :-(
>
> If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to
> use?
>
> About all I could find on ACS was this:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php
>
> At least it comes in Black to match my engine... ;-)
>
> Feedback would be most appreciated.
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog
> Moved to hanger, wings attached permanently....
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:00:36 PM PST US
> From: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rick6a@yahoo.com>
> >
> Subject: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
>
>
> I used-red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies.- In serv
> ice for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever.
> -
> [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG]
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:24:57 PM PST US
> From: "Bruce Gray" <bgray@glasair.org<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bgray@glasair.org>
> >
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
>
> I'd fly the airplane first to see if I had any cylinder temp problems.
> If I did then I would go with the RTV.
>
> Bruce
> www.Glasair.org
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com>]
> On Behalf Of Rick Galati
> Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 2:58 PM
> Subject: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
>
>
> I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies. In
> service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever.
>
> [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG]
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 12:25:15 PM PST US
> From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
> >
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
>
>
> Necessary? Maybe yes maybe no. If your engine runs hot=2C it is necessary.
> If your engine runs cold=2C maybe not.
>
> I used BLACK Permatex Silicone from PepBoys. My baffles are painted black
> and so is my engine. I know guys that have used bath tube or kitchen RTV.
>
>
> Gary A. Sobek
>
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
>
> 2=2C342+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
>
>
> > Date: Sun=2C 28 Mar 2010 09:23:59 -0700
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rv-list@matronics.com>=3B
> rv7-list@matronics.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rv7-list@matronics.com>=3B
> rv8-list@matronics
> .com
> > From: dralle@matronics.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=dralle@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
> >
> >
> >
> > Dear Listers=2C
> >
> > Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baff
> le-to-engine areas=2C what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolute
> ly necessary? Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installatio
> n. :-(
> >
> > If it is an absolute requirement=2C what are some suggestions on material
> to use?
> >
> > About all I could find on ACS was this:
> >
> > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php
> >
> > At least it comes in Black to match my engine... =3B-)
> >
> > Feedback would be most appreciated.
> >
> > Matt Dralle
> > RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> > http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog
> > Moved to hanger=2C wings attached permanently....
> >
> >
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> >
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
> inbox.
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:O
> N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:20:48 PM PST US
> From: David Cudney <yenduc@me.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=yenduc@me.com>
> >
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
>
> I also used red, high temp RTV---I sorta like the purdy red color. I
> also put louvers on the bottom of the lower cowl to aid in cooling ---
> probably was over kill as the engine runs very cool even in climb on
> hot days.
>
> dave
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2010, at 11:58 AM, Rick Galati wrote:
>
> > I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies. In
> > service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever.
> >
> > [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG]<=======================
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> http://forums.matronbsp; - List Contribution Web Site -http://www
> ======================
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 7
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Start with the simple things ..... check for flashing between the fins
around the spark plug .... place a light underneath the head and look
down between the fins. best done when it's almost dark. A needle file
will clean up the flashing.
Check the sealing around the nose of the engine.
The intake air can also go forward and exit through the spinner/cowl
gap. Use a piece of foam pipe insulation fitted inside the cowl lip
..... the first time you start the engine it'll trim the foam so glue it
in well.
airflow efficiency ...... the differential pressures across the engine
need to be 6 1/2 " H2O for an O-360. Rig a manometer (Google manometer
if you don't know) and go fly. Balancing the inlet Vs outlet can cut
down cooling drag along with getting the temps down.
Also Google 'lycoming manometer' for far more reading than you want.
Let us know what you find out.
Linn
Take a good look at the baffle seal around the nose of the engine.
I've been struggling with high cylinder head temperatures for 2+
years...I have tried everything. Stock RV cowling & exhaust
installation: TMX-O360 180hp with Carb, Lightspeed & slick mag. I can
see CHT's in 430F range or much higher if I did NOT manage power.
Mixture & timing correct. Openned up intake & exhaust areas. Resealed
w/silicone material (replaced black stuff) - tight fit. Plugged all the
little holes w/red RTV. Sealed & recontoured in-let ramps. Spark plugs
the coolest offered...I am measureing with Dynon FlightDek 180 and all
TCs match exactly & agree with ambient temperature (0 to 100 F).
Everyone that looks at it says "looks good, shold cool OK?". I am
running out of ideas and would appreciate any feedback or ideas.
Thanks...Tony
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