Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:44 AM - CT A-740 Cables (Valovich, Paul)
2. 08:10 AM - Re: CT A-740 Cables (Fisher Paul A.)
3. 08:32 AM - Re: CT A-740 Cables (Tom Hanaway)
4. 08:38 AM - Re: CT A-740 Cables (Dale Ensing)
5. 03:35 PM - Re: Sump fit IO360C1C6 to A1B6 (pittss1@aol.com)
6. 07:46 PM - Instrumentation Checkout Video (HDTV)... (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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Progress on my -8A is slow but steady - to the point where I'm addressing i
ssues that were either postponed or lower priority. One of those is install
ation of CT A-740 control cables to operate the cabin heat valve and the pa
rking brake valve. I purchased two cables from Vans, but both are much long
er that required. Seems like I have two options:
1. Rig a loop to eliminate the extra length
2. Cut the cable to length - with the "spring" covering shorter that
the cable
I prefer (2) but am unsure exactly of the best way to cut without damaging
the actual cable. Any ideas?
Paul Valovich
N192NM
Message 2
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I cut mine. I grabbed the knob and pulled the center wire completely out.
Then cut the outer material to length with a Dremel and a cut off wheel.
Put the center wire back in and eventually trim it as required. Truth be t
old, I actually cut it twice. Once a little long just to be sure it fit, t
hen to final length.
If you are uncomfortable, you could start by cutting just an inch or so off
for practice, and then verify everything is alright before you attempt a c
ut to a more precise length.
- Paul
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 09:21
Subject: RV-List: CT A-740 Cables
Progress on my -8A is slow but steady - to the point where I'm addressing i
ssues that were either postponed or lower priority. One of those is install
ation of CT A-740 control cables to operate the cabin heat valve and the pa
rking brake valve. I purchased two cables from Vans, but both are much long
er that required. Seems like I have two options:
1. Rig a loop to eliminate the extra length
2. Cut the cable to length - with the "spring" covering shorter that
the cable
I prefer (2) but am unsure exactly of the best way to cut without damaging
the actual cable. Any ideas?
Paul Valovich
N192NM
Message 3
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Paul,
Easy enough. It was a duh!!! moment for me when somebody showed me.
Measure to make sure you have correct inner cable length. Pull on control
knob to bring inner cable back past point in sheath that you want to cut. I
just used wire snips but others prefer dremel or min-cutoff wheel.
If not sure, cut a little longer than you think you need. You can always
trim a little more using same procedure.
4 cables done. All work fine.
Tom Hanaway
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 10:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: CT A-740 Cables
Progress on my -8A is slow but steady - to the point where I'm addressing
issues that were either postponed or lower priority. One of those is
installation of CT A-740 control cables to operate the cabin heat valve and
the parking brake valve. I purchased two cables from Vans, but both are much
longer that required. Seems like I have two options:
1. Rig a loop to eliminate the extra length
2. Cut the cable to length - with the "spring" covering shorter that
the cable
I prefer (2) but am unsure exactly of the best way to cut without damaging
the actual cable. Any ideas?
Paul Valovich
N192NM
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: CT A-740 Cables |
Use an abrasive cutoff wheel......... a Dremel type motor with a small whee
l should do it or you can use an air powered motor with a larger wheel.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: Valovich, Paul
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 10:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: CT A-740 Cables
Progress on my -8A is slow but steady - to the point where I'm addressing
issues that were either postponed or lower priority. One of those is insta
llation of CT A-740 control cables to operate the cabin heat valve and the
parking brake valve. I purchased two cables from Vans, but both are much lo
nger that required. Seems like I have two options::p>
1. Rig a loop to eliminate the extra length
2. Cut the cable to length - with the "spring" covering shorter tha
t the cable
I prefer (2) but am unsure exactly of the best way to cut without damagin
g the actual cable. Any ideas?
Paul Valovich
N192NM
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Sump fit IO360C1C6 to A1B6 |
if the eng mount is modified the c1c sump will fit. its a secet weapon, sl
ightly tuned, lighter weight and fwd mounted injector. free horsepower!
i did this on a g202 - 200 hp with straight valve cylinders (to save weigh
t) airflo injection ... 32" map on t/o ... sea level on a cool day. (monte
barrett eng)
mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wed, Apr 7, 2010 12:48 pm
Subject: RV-List: Sump fit IO360C1C6 to A1B6
Greg,
Thanks for the nugget! This confirms what Bart had said regarding interfe
rence
ith the engine mount. It appears that I will have an extra 'C' sump as I
will
e purchasing the 'A' sump and pipes.
One question remains. Charlie posted a link to IDGs Picasa web album that
shows
RV-8 engine installation with an IO-360 parallel valve with a 'C' sump
achined to fit the fuel servo to the front. It appears there is clearance
etween the rear of the sump and the engine mount.
http://picasaweb.google.com/intelligentdesigngroup/FirewallForward#5311619
666248489490
Still head scratching...
chris stone RV8 Oregon
----Original Message-----
From: Greg <bigdog@bentwing.com>
Sent: Apr 7, 2010 12:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6
I used a C model sump on my 1st RV-6. I had the front boss milled and tapp
ed
for studs to mount an Airflow Performance servo. That was on a parallel
valve O-360 so I had to adjust the intake tubes and provide spacers to get
them to fit. That shouldn't be needed on an angle valve engine. The down
side for my -6 was the sump sits farther aft than the A model sump and I
had
to modify my engine mount to get clearance. I elected to go with an A sump
on my rebuild which also has tubes made for the parallel valve engine.
I have the C model sump available if you or anyone else is interested. It
has been modified to add the oil bosses (I've forgotten if it was 1 or 2)
for a Christen inverted system. The sump is magnesium as are the added
bosses. Rear has a cover plate and the front is setup for the AFP servo.
Contact me off list if interested.
Regards,
Greg Young
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Stone
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 8:32 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6
>
>
> Hello listers...
>
> Has anyone converted a Lyc IO360-C1C6 (rear fuel controller)
> to a A1B6 front fuel controller by machining the sump boss to
> accept the mounting of the fuel controller to the front of the sump.
>
> Since this is a tuned induction system I am concerned that by
> switching the inlet to the front of the sump it will detune
> the system.
>
> Chris Stone
> RV-8
> Oregon
>
>
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Message 6
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Subject: | Instrumentation Checkout Video (HDTV)... |
Dear Listers,
I wanted to check out the operation of all the various systems on the RV-8 now
that the engine is running. For example, comparing the fuel flow and fuel pressure
readings between the FuelChec DX and the GRT EFIS. I also wanted to run
the engine up a little and make sure the CHT and EGT's were coming into a normal
range and the all of the probes were working. Also, I wanted to see the oil
pressure and temps in normal ranges after a bit of running. Finally, I wanted
to check the engine RPM with the new TruTach II hand held optic tachometer.
On April 13 2010 I hopped in the pilot's seat and fired up the IO-390 and went
though some checks. I videoed the procedure and used the intercom to call out
the various readings I was observing. If you select the 1080p version of the
YouTube video, you can actually read most of the values right off the GRT EFIS
displays! Towards the end of the video some music starts to play. This is
coming from the Kenwood via the MP3 files on the 64GB thumb drive plugged into
the panel via the PS3000 Intercom and is exactly what I'm hearing in the headphones.
YouTube Video (Select higher resolutions 480p/760p/1080p for clearer picture):
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=-byMWhyTwjA
PS - Video was edited with Adobe Premiere CS4 on a Windows Vista 64 system.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight
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