Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:54 AM - Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit (thomas sargent)
2. 10:25 AM - Re: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit (Dale Ensing)
3. 11:00 AM - Re: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit (thomas sargent)
4. 01:24 PM - Re: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit (Dale Ensing)
5. 01:34 PM - Re: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit (thomas sargent)
6. 03:35 PM - Re: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit (Craig Gallenbach)
7. 03:38 PM - Flap Fuse Periodically Blows (Gene Lee)
8. 08:03 PM - Re: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit |
I tried installing the WHLAXLE24 on my 6A last night. It's a good idea, but
seems to be incompatible with the old style nose wheel fairing. My kit is
from around 2000.
My wheel fairing has the old, bad, design where the big AN6 bolt that holds
on the wheel ALSO holds on the wheel fairing. Matco has you install a
1/4-20 hex head bolt through the fork that screws into a threaded hole in
the axle. This is to keep it from rotating within the fork. (You can see
the drawings on the Matco website. )
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
The hex head of that anti-rotation bolt is interfering with the mounting
bracket of the wheel fairing. I called Matco who said I was the first to
report this problem and was otherwise unsympathetic. I advised them to warn
about this on the drawing, but his attitude was "hey, that's home
building". I should have been on the look out for things like this, but it
is sold specifically for RV forks and I assumed they had engineered it
better than that.
There are several ways to deal with this.
1- Leave out the 1/4-20 bolt entirely. The friction of the fork griping the
axle with the full torque on a AN-6 bolt will almost certainly keep it from
rotating.
2- Use a countersunk 1/4-20 screw instead of the bolt. I don't like this
because it requires excavating yet more aluminum from my already slim, new
style, fork assembly. It is pretty close to the lightening hole as it is.
3- If I knew about this ahead of time, I could have drilled a hole for a #8
screw instead, thru the fork into the periphery of the axle and then tapped
that for an 8-32. That would not have interfered. Why they chose a 1/4-20
bolt for that purpose is a mystery to me.
It is way overkill.
4- Try using a 1/4-20 round head screw instead of a hex head bolt. The
smaller head may be small enough to miss the bracket or be usable with just
a little bit of grinding on the bracket.
I will try #4 and if that doesn't work, I'll go with #1.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, almost ready to weigh.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit |
Tom,
How about a 1/4-20 set screw with the internal hex socket? Get one short/lo
ng enough so that it doesn't protrude and interfere with the fairing bracke
t when tight in the axle.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 12:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit
I tried installing the WHLAXLE24 on my 6A last night. It's a good idea,
but seems to be incompatible with the old style nose wheel fairing. My kit
is from around 2000.
My wheel fairing has the old, bad, design where the big AN6 bolt that ho
lds on the wheel ALSO holds on the wheel fairing. Matco has you install a
1/4-20 hex head bolt through the fork that screws into a threaded hole in t
he axle. This is to keep it from rotating within the fork. (You can see t
he drawings on the Matco website. )
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
The hex head of that anti-rotation bolt is interfering with the mountin
g bracket of the wheel fairing. I called Matco who said I was the first to
report this problem and was otherwise unsympathetic. I advised them to war
n about this on the drawing, but his attitude was "hey, that's home buildin
g". I should have been on the look out for things like this, but it is sol
d specifically for RV forks and I assumed they had engineered it better tha
n that.
There are several ways to deal with this.
1- Leave out the 1/4-20 bolt entirely. The friction of the fork griping
the axle with the full torque on a AN-6 bolt will almost certainly keep it
from rotating.
2- Use a countersunk 1/4-20 screw instead of the bolt. I don't like this
because it requires excavating yet more aluminum from my already slim, new
style, fork assembly. It is pretty close to the lightening hole as it is.
3- If I knew about this ahead of time, I could have drilled a hole for a
#8 screw instead, thru the fork into the periphery of the axle and then tap
ped that for an 8-32. That would not have interfered. Why they chose a 1/4
-20 bolt for that purpose is a mystery to me.
It is way overkill.
4- Try using a 1/4-20 round head screw instead of a hex head bolt. The s
maller head may be small enough to miss the bracket or be usable with just
a little bit of grinding on the bracket.
I will try #4 and if that doesn't work, I'll go with #1.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, almost ready to weigh.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit |
Dale:
A set screw isn't appropriate here because the screw doesn't just press on
the Matco axle. They drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4-20 all the way
through the (expanded head of) the axle. So you have to use something with
a head on it AND because of the geometry of the axle, the head has to be on
the outside of the fork.
On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 10:22 AM, Dale Ensing <densing@carolina.rr.com>wrote:
> Tom,
> How about a 1/4-20 set screw with the internal hex socket? Get one
> short/long enough so that it doesn't protrude and interfere with the fairing
> bracket when tight in the axle.
> Dale Ensing
>
> -
>
>
--
Tom Sargent
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit |
I understand.....would it be possible to put a short set screw (with Loctit
e) in the back side of the axle flange to create a blind hole and they tigh
ten the functioning set screw against it? Just a thought.......
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 1:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit
Dale:
A set screw isn't appropriate here because the screw doesn't just press o
n the Matco axle. They drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4-20 all the way
through the (expanded head of) the axle. So you have to use something with
a head on it AND because of the geometry of the axle, the head has to be o
n the outside of the fork.
On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 10:22 AM, Dale Ensing <densing@carolina.rr.com> w
rote:
Tom,
How about a 1/4-20 set screw with the internal hex socket? Get one shor
t/long enough so that it doesn't protrude and interfere with the fairing br
acket when tight in the axle.
Dale Ensing
--
Tom Sargent
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit |
Dale:
Yes, locktite on a set screw might be a good thing here. One of the guys I
work with suggested that.
On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 1:23 PM, Dale Ensing <densing@carolina.rr.com>wrote:
> I understand.....would it be possible to put a short set screw (with
> Loctite) in the back side of the axle flange to create a blind hole and they
> tighten the functioning set screw against it? Just a thought.......
> Dale
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com>
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 12, 2010 1:58 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit
>
> Dale:
> A set screw isn't appropriate here because the screw doesn't just press on
> the Matco axle. They drilled and tapped a hole for a 1/4-20 all the way
> through the (expanded head of) the axle. So you have to use something with
> a head on it AND because of the geometry of the axle, the head has to be on
> the outside of the fork.
>
> On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 10:22 AM, Dale Ensing <densing@carolina.rr.com>wrote:
>
>> Tom,
>> How about a 1/4-20 set screw with the internal hex socket? Get one
>> short/long enough so that it doesn't protrude and interfere with the fairing
>> bracket when tight in the axle.
>> Dale Ensing
>>
>> --
>> Tom Sargent
>>
>> *
> *
>
> *
> ===========
> *
>
>
--
Tom Sargent
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit |
Tom,
-
I did something like your option #4.- I used the bolt provided and carved
on the nosewheel bracket enough to clear the bolt head.- Not elegant, bu
t seems to work.-
-
Craig Gallenbach
RV8A N184CG- 115hrs
--- On Wed, 5/12/10, thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com> wrote:
From: thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit
I tried installing the WHLAXLE24 on my 6A last night.- It's a good idea,
but seems to be incompatible with the old style nose wheel fairing.- My k
it is from around 2000.
My wheel fairing has the old, bad,- design where the big AN6 bolt that ho
lds on the wheel ALSO holds on the wheel fairing.- Matco has you install
a 1/4-20 hex head bolt through the fork that screws into a threaded hole in
the axle.- This is to keep it from rotating within the fork.- (You can
see the drawings on the Matco website. )
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
- The hex head of that anti-rotation bolt is interfering with the mountin
g bracket of the wheel fairing.- I called Matco who said I was the first
to report this problem and was otherwise unsympathetic. I advised them to w
arn about this on the drawing, but his attitude was "hey, that's home build
ing".- I should have been on the look out for things like this, but it is
sold specifically for RV forks and I assumed they had engineered it better
than that.
There are several ways to deal with this.
1- Leave out the 1/4-20 bolt entirely.- The friction of the fork griping
the axle with the full torque on a AN-6 bolt will almost certainly keep it
from rotating.
2- Use a countersunk 1/4-20 screw instead of the bolt.- I don't like this
because it requires excavating yet more aluminum from my already slim, new
style,- fork assembly.- It is pretty close to the lightening hole as i
t is.
3- If I knew about this ahead of time, I could have drilled a hole for a #8
screw instead, thru the fork into the periphery of the axle and then tappe
d that for an 8-32.- That would not have interfered. Why they chose a 1/4
-20 bolt for that purpose is a mystery to me.
-It is way overkill.
4- Try using a 1/4-20 round head screw instead of a hex head bolt.- The s
maller head may be small enough to miss the bracket or be usable with just
a little bit of grinding on the bracket.
I will try #4 and if that doesn't work, I'll go with #1.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, almost ready to weigh.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Flap Fuse Periodically Blows |
I have an RV-7a with 700 hours on her and a month ago the flap fuse ( 7.5amps )
blew on two consecutive landings. The fuse has
never blown before in those 700 hours. I know I was well below the white arc,
10 to 15 knots below, on both of the landings.
After I changed the fuse on those two, it went almost a month without ever happening
again, then the fuse below twice more over the
course of a few landings.
It always blows on the downward movement, but the point at which it's blown varies
anywhere between just barely having moved and
being as much as 20 degrees when it happens.
The other point that someone is sure to ask is if it makes any unusual sounds during
the travel. none what so ever, all appears fine
on the ground.
I've scanned through the mailing list archives and couldn't find any one reporting
flap problems like this (apologies if I
overlooked a discussion of exactly this problem), but I wondered if anyone could
offer some advice.
Thanks,
Gene
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit |
I just installed mine last weekend, and because of the lightning hole I
rotated the bolt to get more surfice area around the bolt. When I put
the fairing on I could see that it was going to slightly interfere so I
gound out a small portion of the bracket and I'm going to keep a good
eye on it.
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 9:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Interference problem with Matco WHLAXLE24 kit
I tried installing the WHLAXLE24 on my 6A last night. It's a good
idea, but seems to be incompatible with the old style nose wheel
fairing. My kit is from around 2000.
My wheel fairing has the old, bad, design where the big AN6 bolt that
holds on the wheel ALSO holds on the wheel fairing. Matco has you
install a 1/4-20 hex head bolt through the fork that screws into a
threaded hole in the axle. This is to keep it from rotating within the
fork. (You can see the drawings on the Matco website. )
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
The hex head of that anti-rotation bolt is interfering with the
mounting bracket of the wheel fairing. I called Matco who said I was
the first to report this problem and was otherwise unsympathetic. I
advised them to warn about this on the drawing, but his attitude was
"hey, that's home building". I should have been on the look out for
things like this, but it is sold specifically for RV forks and I assumed
they had engineered it better than that.
There are several ways to deal with this.
1- Leave out the 1/4-20 bolt entirely. The friction of the fork
griping the axle with the full torque on a AN-6 bolt will almost
certainly keep it from rotating.
2- Use a countersunk 1/4-20 screw instead of the bolt. I don't like
this because it requires excavating yet more aluminum from my already
slim, new style, fork assembly. It is pretty close to the lightening
hole as it is.
3- If I knew about this ahead of time, I could have drilled a hole for
a #8 screw instead, thru the fork into the periphery of the axle and
then tapped that for an 8-32. That would not have interfered. Why they
chose a 1/4-20 bolt for that purpose is a mystery to me.
It is way overkill.
4- Try using a 1/4-20 round head screw instead of a hex head bolt.
The smaller head may be small enough to miss the bracket or be usable
with just a little bit of grinding on the bracket.
I will try #4 and if that doesn't work, I'll go with #1.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, almost ready to weigh.
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