---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 06/02/10: 10 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:34 AM - Re: Trouble with Altimeter (Linn Walters) 2. 05:43 AM - Re: Fixing a bad hole... (Linn Walters) 3. 10:43 AM - Radio Noise (Jim Thorne) 4. 11:12 AM - Re: Radio Noise (Linn Walters) 5. 12:34 PM - New safety tool - canopy breaker (Frazier, Vincent A) 6. 05:59 PM - Re: Radio Noise (Carl Froehlich) 7. 09:35 PM - Re: Fixing a bad hole... (HCRV6@comcast.net) 8. 10:06 PM - Re: Fixing a bad hole... (Chris Colohan) 9. 10:40 PM - some approx V speeds (thomas sargent) 10. 11:10 PM - Re: some approx V speeds (Vanremog@aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:34:45 AM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Trouble with Altimeter Maybe there's still some trapped water in the system??? Linn david cook wrote: > Went out to the airport today to blow out the static line and adjust > the altimeter. It was back to normal. > Took a flight and it worked OK. Had some flutter to it though. Don't > know about it's longevity. > > David R. Cook > N815DC RV-6 > Flying > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* david cook > *To:* rv-list@matronics.com > *Sent:* Mon, May 31, 2010 10:34:17 PM > *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Trouble with Altimeter > > Thanks for the replies. I will let you know the end result. > > David R. Cook > N815DC RV-6 > Flying > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* david cook > *To:* RV-List > *Sent:* Sat, May 29, 2010 8:37:40 PM > *Subject:* RV-List: Trouble with Altimeter > > Hi All > My altimeter just went crazy. Jumped in the ole 6 and spotted the > altitude had gone up 300 feet. Reset to field elevation and the > pressure reading was 28.7. I looked around an there was no hurricane > in sight. > Any one have an explanation. The unit is only 3 years old from Vans. > Do I just reset it or is there a problem? > > Dave > > David R. Cook > N815DC RV-6 > Flying > > > * > > > * > > * > > > * > > * > > > * ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:43:08 AM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Fixing a bad hole... Of all the rhetoric this thread has generated, I find the suggestion of making the hole 'clean' to accept a rivet .... put one in, and then use the skin as a guide to redrill the hole .... with a good bit. As Kelly said in a previous post .... fixing (not replacing) an oops will become a common skill. Linn Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Sounds like your drill bit was either bent, or not installed straight > in the drill. You shouldn't get that kind of wobble from a drill bit. > You can keep a few pieces of scrap to test a drill bit on before > doing critical parts, and to fine tune your rivet gun pressures before > driving any that will look bad if not driven right. > Don't feel bad. I know one or two people that misread the instructions > and misdrilled those doublers, needing to obtain new ones. When you > get into wings and fuselage you will forget all those minor speed > bumps on the tail. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 10:43:01 AM PST US From: "Jim Thorne" Subject: RV-List: Radio Noise Here is a tough one that maybe some of you guys can point me in the right direction to look. Set up is: RV-7A with an SL-30, Bob Archer antenna in left wingtip, with PTT on stick also FWIW I have a P-Mag and E-mag. Radio is excellent on ground in both transmit and receive, reception in air is OK however when I press the PTT the noise is horrible with static and breaking up. This has been a consistent condition. Attempts to correct the problem have been: checking antenna installation in wingtip, everything seems fine, Checking connectors where stick PTT plugs into the system, the PTT pin may not have been fully seated, it is now, trying different headsets. Nothing has solved the problem to date. I have been working with the tower on this flying the same circuit and when I contact them it is always somewhere between almost NORDO to just generally poor communications. When I'm back on the ground everything is just fine again. Ideas, directions or suggestions? Jim Thorne RV-7A CHD About 12 Hours now. ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 11:12:24 AM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Radio Noise Some more info: Jim Thorne wrote: > Here is a tough one that maybe some of you guys can point me in the > right direction to look. Set up is: RV-7A with an SL-30, Bob Archer > antenna in left wingtip, with PTT on stick also FWIW I have a P-Mag > and E-mag. Radio is excellent on ground in both transmit and receive, > reception in air is OK however when I press the PTT the noise is > horrible with static and breaking up. In your headset, or the tower's? > This has been a consistent condition. Attempts to correct the > problem have been: checking antenna installation in wingtip, > everything seems fine, Checking connectors where stick PTT plugs into > the system, the PTT pin may not have been fully seated, it is now, > trying different headsets. Nothing has solved the problem to date. I > have been working with the tower on this flying the same circuit and > when I contact them it is always somewhere between almost NORDO to > just generally poor communications. When I'm back on the ground > everything is just fine again. Even with high RPM on the ground??? > Ideas, directions or suggestions? Does the noise change with changes in RPM in the air?? Horrible static sounds like fairly high current arcing is taking place in the air. Pull all the accessories off-line (switches, fuses, ckt breakers open) and try transmissions with only the radios powered. Turn off the alternator. You may even have to turn off the mags and glide for a transmission or two. Don't have any experience with P or E-mags so don't know if they need or have P-lead filters. Let us know what the testing does. Linn > do not archive > Jim Thorne > RV-7A CHD > About 12 Hours now. > * > > > * ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 12:34:17 PM PST US From: "Frazier, Vincent A" Subject: RV-List: New safety tool - canopy breaker We just received a shipment of a brand new safety item. The Sabre Aviation canopy breaker is something that many of us would want to consider placing right next to our fire extinguisher. Check it out. http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/sto...roducts_id=377 http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&c Path=76&products_id=377 Thanks, __________________ Vince Frazier www.flyboyaccessories.com RV and Rocket Accessories, Tailwheels, Tools, & More 1-888-8FLYBOY (1-888-835-9269) ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:59:05 PM PST US From: "Carl Froehlich" Subject: RE: RV-List: Radio Noise Jim, My guess is you have a classic example of installing a fairly complex antenna, following instructions, but then not doing the antenna testing and tuning to make it work. From your description you have RF getting back into the audio, either via the radio or audio panel. The first thing I would look at is antenna tuning. If not properly tuned, the antenna will reflect some of the transmit energy back to the radio via the feed line. While a very poor antenna will always receive and transmit something, both will be degraded. On the ground the proximity to the earth may mask this problem. I built two wingtip antennas similar in design to the Archer antenna. I also have 30 years of playing with all kinds of antennas and some basic test equipment to verify they are properly tuned. The one op check I did with someone flying next to me using an out of the box Archer antenna resulted in the controller hearing me but not hearing the other guy. I can also verify the wingtip communication antenna does not work as well as a belly mounted whip (my primary antenna), but it works good enough. The Archer is a good product, but without tuning it or not having it properly mounted the performance could be hit or miss. Recommend you find yourself a knowledgeable Amateur Radio Operator to come over and take a look. Carl Froehlich KV4U RV-8A (540 hrs) RV-10 (system install) From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Thorne Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 1:42 PM Subject: RV-List: Radio Noise Here is a tough one that maybe some of you guys can point me in the right direction to look. Set up is: RV-7A with an SL-30, Bob Archer antenna in left wingtip, with PTT on stick also FWIW I have a P-Mag and E-mag. Radio is excellent on ground in both transmit and receive, reception in air is OK however when I press the PTT the noise is horrible with static and breaking up. This has been a consistent condition. Attempts to correct the problem have been: checking antenna installation in wingtip, everything seems fine, Checking connectors where stick PTT plugs into the system, the PTT pin may not have been fully seated, it is now, trying different headsets. Nothing has solved the problem to date. I have been working with the tower on this flying the same circuit and when I contact them it is always somewhere between almost NORDO to just generally poor communications. When I'm back on the ground everything is just fine again. Ideas, directions or suggestions? Jim Thorne RV-7A CHD About 12 Hours now. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:35:19 PM PST US From: HCRV6@comcast.net Subject: Re: RV-List: Fixing a bad hole... And to repeat myself, dump the fractional drill bits and get some decent #40 (or #41 doesn't really matter) and #30 aircraft split point bits from Avery or Cleveland. Harry Crosby RV-6 N16CX, 692 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Colohan" Sent: Tuesday, June 1, 2010 2:27:06 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: Re: RV-List: Fixing a bad hole... I have the Avery drill -- the issue here is not that I started the hole in the wrong place, but that once the hole started through one piece of aluminum the bit managed to expand the hole sideways into a giant oval instead of drilling through the next piece. It acted more like a router than a drill. :-( After the messages on this list and off -- I've ordered new HS-1013 doublers from Van's, and will use this with my spare spar to redo the whole thing the right way. Chris On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 1:16 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Also, you need a drill with a good teasing trigger that you can start very > slow, and only after the drill bit has started, run the speed up high. > Chicago Pneumatics makes a good one that Avery sells for around $125, and > there are the Sioux drills for about double that. > > > > On 6/1/2010 7:43 AM, John Bright wrote: > >> It's only one hole of tens... not a structural issue... you could do your >> best with an oops rivet and move on. Is it a cosmetic issue with the skin? >> You don't show the skin... is the skin bungled-up also? You could fill >> around it on the exterior skin cosmetically with pro-seal when you mix it >> for the tanks. >> >> I like the 135 degree split points. IMO cobalt or TiN or whatever does not >> matter to us with this aluminum. Split points have less tendency to walk >> than 118 degree non split points but they will still walk. All drills make >> triangular holes in thin sheet metal. >> >> I use an electric drill that spins maybe 2,400 rpm and I go thru skin and >> doubler in 1 or 2 seconds. I don't know what's going on with 20-30 seconds >> but something is wrong. >> Thanks, >> >> John Bright >> o:757-864-2305 >> c:757-812-1909 >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> *From:* Chris Colohan >> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com >> >> *Sent:* Tue, June 1, 2010 12:51:12 AM >> *Subject:* RV-List: Fixing a bad hole... >> >> I've reached the horizontal stabilizer in building my RV-10. While >> drilling the 3/32" holes in the spar doublers for the forward spar, I mucked >> one of the holes up. >> >> In particular, the drill appears to have slid about 3/32" sideways while >> drilling, mis-placing the hole by 3/32". Perhaps better explained through >> pictures: >> >> >> http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YZEMcGR7IQ7RKKSRLDgTIKIqw9YRHPUJIjz5HHlTjwc?feat=directlink >> >> http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/eN0TsDBeAFqGoRwnEt8-s6Iqw9YRHPUJIjz5HHlTjwc?feat=directlink >> >> http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/e83Ltq54S8AOdpT-fXhSuKIqw9YRHPUJIjz5HHlTjwc?feat=directlink >> >> http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JklKOOxA-qYDu9BtPMZJeKIqw9YRHPUJIjz5HHlTjwc?feat=directlink >> >> So I know how to fix a hole when you make it slightly too large -- you >> drill it out larger and put an "oops" rivet in it. But what can you do to >> fix a hole which is misplaced? Is there a good fix for this? Drilling a >> hole large enough to cover this error would take a rivet larger than 1/8"... >> >> (At worst, I can just replace the spar -- I have a spare, due to an >> earlier error that Van's made, and so I'd just need to order some new spar >> doublers. But I'd like to first learn if I can fix this one.) >> >> Also, while I have your ear -- I made this error while using a brand new >> Rigid Cobalt drill bit (like this one: >> http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/332-Cobalt-Drill-Bit/EN/index.htm). The bit >> appears to be able to cut sideways just as well (or even better) than it can >> drill straight ahead in aluminum. It also takes about 20-30 seconds per >> hole drilling at 4000rpm (assuming my air drill is making its rated speed) >> while applying moderate pressure. Is this a known problem with this type of >> bit, or is my drilling technique off? I've ordered some "aviation" 3/32" >> bits from Avery, but wanted to know if I should expect it to be easier to >> drill straight with those bits. >> >> Thanks! >> >> Chris >> >> * >> >> >> * >> > > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 10:06:56 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Fixing a bad hole... From: Chris Colohan I took your advice and ordered new bits from Avery Sunday night when I ordered the replacement parts. Hopefully they arrive before next weekend... Thanks! Chris On Wed, Jun 2, 2010 at 9:29 PM, wrote: > And to repeat myself, dump the fractional drill bits and get some decent > #40 (or #41 doesn't really matter) and #30 aircraft split point bits from > Avery or Cleveland. > > > Harry Crosby > RV-6 N16CX, 692 hours > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Chris Colohan" > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Sent: Tuesday, June 1, 2010 2:27:06 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fixing a bad hole... > > I have the Avery drill -- the issue here is not that I started the hole in > the wrong place, but that once the hole started through one piece of > aluminum the bit managed to expand the hole sideways into a giant oval > instead of drilling through the next piece. It acted more like a router > than a drill. :-( > > After the messages on this list and off -- I've ordered new HS-1013 > doublers > from Van's, and will use this with my spare spar to redo the whole thing > the > right way. > > Chris > > On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 1:16 PM, Kelly McMullen > wrote: > > > > > Also, you need a drill with a good teasing trigger that you can start > very > > slow, and only after the drill bit has started, run the speed up high. > > Chicago Pneumatics makes a good one that Avery sells for around $125, and > > there are the Sioux drills for about double that. > > > > > > > > On 6/1/2010 7:43 AM, John Bright wrote: > > > >> It's only one hole of tens... not a structural issue... you could do > your > >> best with an oops rivet and move on. Is it a cosmetic issue with the > skin? > >> You don't show the skin... is the skin bungled-up also? You could fill > >> around it on the exterior skin cosmetically with pro-seal when you mix > it > >> for the tanks. > >> > >> I like the 135 degree split points. IMO cobalt or TiN or whatever does > not > >> matter to us with this aluminum. Split points have less tendency to walk > >> than 118 degree non split points but they will still walk. All drills > make > >> triangular holes in thin sheet metal. > >> > >> I use an electric drill that spins maybe 2,400 rpm and I go thru skin > and > >> doubler in 1 or 2 seconds. I don't know what's going on with 20-30 > seconds > >> but something is wrong. > >> Thanks, > >> > >> John Bright > >> o:757-864-2305 > >> c:757-812-1909 > >> > >> > >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > >> *From:* Chris Colohan > >> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com > >> > >> *Sent:* Tue, June 1, 2010 12:51:12 AM > >> *Subject:* RV-List: Fixing a bad hole... > >> > >> I've reached the horizontal stabilizer in building my RV-10. While > >> drilling the 3/32" holes in the spar doublers for the forward spar, I > mucked > >> one of the holes up. > >> > >> In particular, the drill appears to have slid about 3/32" sideways while > >> drilling, mis-placing the hole by 3/32". Perhaps better explained > through > >> pictures: > >> > >> > >> > http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YZEMcGR7IQ7RKKSRLDgTIKIqw9YRHPUJIjz5HHlTjwc?feat=directlink > >> > >> > http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/eN0TsDBeAFqGoRwnEt8-s6Iqw9YRHPUJIjz5HHlTjwc?feat=directlink > >> > >> > http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/e83Ltq54S8AOdpT-fXhSuKIqw9YRHPUJIjz5HHlTjwc?feat=directlink > >> > >> > http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JklKOOxA-qYDu9BtPMZJeKIqw9YRHPUJIjz5HHlTjwc?feat=directlink > >> > >> So I know how to fix a hole when you make it slightly too large -- you > >> drill it out larger and put an "oops" rivet in it. But what can you do > to > >> fix a hole which is misplaced? Is there a good fix for this? Drilling > a > >> hole large enough to cover this error would take a rivet larger than > 1/8"... > >> > >> (At worst, I can just replace the spar -- I have a spare, due to an > >> earlier error that Van's made, and so I'd just need to order some new > spar > >> doublers. But I'd like to first learn if I can fix this one.) > >> > >> Also, while I have your ear -- I made this error while using a brand new > >> Rigid Cobalt drill bit (like this one: > >> http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/332-Cobalt-Drill-Bit/EN/index.htm). The > bit > >> appears to be able to cut sideways just as well (or even better) than it > can > >> drill straight ahead in aluminum. It also takes about 20-30 seconds per > >> hole drilling at 4000rpm (assuming my air drill is making its rated > speed) > >> while applying moderate pressure. Is this a known problem with this > type of > >> bit, or is my drilling technique off? I've ordered some "aviation" > 3/32" > >> bits from Avery, but wanted to know if I should expect it to be easier > to > >> drill straight with those bits. > >> > >> Thanks! > >> > >> Chris > >> > >> * > >> > >> > >> * > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > * > > > * > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 10:40:42 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: some approx V speeds From: thomas sargent Anticpating the first flight of my RV-6A, can some one tell me typical Vx and Vy, best angle of glide speed, and Va for these planes. I can refine them after it is flying, but I'd like to have some idea of what to expect to start with. -- Tom Sargent ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 11:10:24 PM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: some approx V speeds Try out my POH for that and more. N1GV (RV-6A Flying 944TTAE Silicon Valley, CA) Ya'know this reminds me very little of the time I wired my tinfoil hat in series with the output of an early 1990's vintage Sovtek MIG-100 amplifier, detuned the B string of my bass a few sonts short of 60Hz Dinah Moe HUMM, slathered the strings with braunschweiger and turned the cats loose upon it. Taken altogether, synergistically and copacetically, the net effect was nothing short of...thrilling. In a message dated 6/2/2010 10:41:24 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, sarg314@gmail.com writes: Anticpating the first flight of my RV-6A, can some one tell me typical Vx and Vy, best angle of glide speed, and Va for these planes. I can refine them after it is flying, but I'd like to have some idea of what to expect to start with. -- Tom Sargent (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.