Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:22 AM - Re: Kalispell MT (Charles Rowbotham)
2. 09:45 AM - Paint flaking off in countersunk holes (Ian)
3. 12:43 PM - RV8A Building Question (Jerry Grimmonpre)
4. 01:23 PM - Re: Paint flaking off in countersunk holes (Linn Walters)
5. 01:37 PM - Re: Flap Fuse (Gene Lee)
6. 05:17 PM - Re: Paint flaking off in countersunk holes (jhnstniii@aol.com)
7. 05:34 PM - FBOs at KHEF Manassas Regional VA (jhnstniii@aol.com)
8. 06:23 PM - Re: RV8A Building Question (rveighta@comcast.net)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hi Fred=2C
Glad to hear your trip is going well.
Have a great and safe trip!
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (sold)
> Date: Tue=2C 15 Jun 2010 00:44:53 -0400
> From: wstucklen1@cox.net
> To: RV-List@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Kalispell MT
>
>
> Hi All=2C
>
> I'm in Kalispell MT for the next couple of days=2C and have some free tim
e. Is there anybody in this area that needs some electrical or mechanical h
elp? I've built three RV-s=2C and helped several other builders with electr
ical and mechanical solutions for their planes. The weather looks like it's
about to take a turn for the worst=2C so I won't be flying in the area=2C
so will be free Tues & Wed. Thursday morning I leave for Canada and then Fa
irbanks.....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-7A N924RV 385 Hrs (Flying)
> RV-6A N926RV 875 Hrs (sold)
> RV-6A N925RV 2008 Hrs (Sold)
>
> Email: wstucklen1@cox.net
> 8Cell: 60-490-3933
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with H
otmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=
PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Paint flaking off in countersunk holes |
I recently removed a tank and was dismayed to see rusting screws and the
paint coming off around the holes. I guess I can use stainless screws
instead of the regular ones to avoid the rusting, but does anyone have a
solution to the paint coming off? I think the bond with the
alumin(i)um is broken as I tighten the screws but doesn't become really
visible until I unscrew them. I had the aircraft professionally
painted but I'm guessing it's difficult to scuff up the countersinks.
While I'm on the subject of removing tanks, does anyone have a solution
to removing the second-to-most-inboard row of baffle bracket bolts
without losing major amounts of skin? I use a short (3") wrench but I
can only just get my hand in place. All 21 bolts are difficult to
remove but those three are the worst.
Ian Brown,
RV-9A C-GOHM, Bromont, Quebec
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | RV8A Building Question |
Dear Listers ...
I bought a partially complete kit. The building manual was not all there
and I'm, therefore, not sure which step to begin next. There are several
places where rivets are not installed (pending steps to take, in sequence
I'm sure).
I would like to learn from this vast group of builders:
What should I do to make sure I begin at the next step to keep the sequence
of steps in order? It wouldn't be smart to get to a place then find several
rivets need drilled-out to install something else.
I don't mind buying a new build manual if that's called for, or replacing
missing prints.
What would you gents do in this case?
Many thank for your answers ...
Jerry
jerry@mc.net
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Paint flaking off in countersunk holes |
I think there are two issues here ..... the painter may have just
painted over the screws instead of loosening them up to paint underneath
the heads. The second thing that should have been done is to place
nylon washers (aircraft spruce) under the screw heads when they were
tightened down, which would have saved most of the cracking paint when
the screws were removed. the washers also make it easier to remove the
screws.
Linn
Ian wrote:
> I recently removed a tank and was dismayed to see rusting screws and
> the paint coming off around the holes. I guess I can use stainless
> screws instead of the regular ones to avoid the rusting, but does
> anyone have a solution to the paint coming off? I think the bond
> with the alumin(i)um is broken as I tighten the screws but doesn't
> become really visible until I unscrew them. I had the aircraft
> professionally painted but I'm guessing it's difficult to scuff up the
> countersinks.
>
> While I'm on the subject of removing tanks, does anyone have a
> solution to removing the second-to-most-inboard row of baffle bracket
> bolts without losing major amounts of skin? I use a short (3") wrench
> but I can only just get my hand in place. All 21 bolts are difficult
> to remove but those three are the worst.
>
> Ian Brown,
> RV-9A C-GOHM, Bromont, Quebec
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Follow-up to let everyone know the final resolution in case someone else sees the
issue in the future.
Grease had worked its way up into the motor and was 'binding it up'. Even with
the motor completely detached from everything else,
it was drawing 2.5 amps just to start spinning. In fact, it drew so much current
that small wisps of smoke came out of it when I
applied power. Next time I won't ignore the problem when 7.5 amp fuses are periodically
blowing!
I found that Usher Precision (http://www.usherprecision.com/aircraft-parts.html) sells just the bare Pittman motor for $110. After
swapping the motor out I took it for some touch-n-goes and the problem looks like
it's gone.
Gene
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ian
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2010 6:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flap Fuse
How about disconnecting the pushrods and checking for resistance to movement by
moving each flap manually? Excessive current draw
suggests that the motor is struggling. You could divide the movement in two -
the motor to the push rods and the push rods to the
flaps. If you feel no resistance to movement on the flap side then maybe there's
some interference or tightness on the motor side.
Could anything be misaligned, interfering or overtightened in motor to pushrod
chain?
Ian Brown
"I have an RV-7a with 700 hours on her and a month ago the flap fuse ( 7.5amps
)
blew on two consecutive landings. The fuse has
never blown before in those 700 hours. I know I was well below the white arc,
10 to 15 knots below, on both of the landings.
After I changed the fuse on those two, it went almost a month without ever happening
again, then the fuse below twice more over the
course of a few landings.
It always blows on the downward movement, but the point at which it's blown varies
anywhere between just barely having moved and
being as much as 20 degrees when it happens."
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Paint flaking off in countersunk holes |
Ian--We put tinnermans under the tank screws and it makes for a very tidy
look and no more paint worries.
LeRoy Johnston/David White RV-6A Esperanza 314 hrs Ohio
-----Original Message-----
From: Ian <ixb@videotron.ca>
Sent: Tue, Jun 15, 2010 12:40 pm
Subject: RV-List: Paint flaking off in countersunk holes
I recently removed a tank and was dismayed to see rusting screws and the
paint coming off around the holes. I guess I can use stainless screws in
stead of the regular ones to avoid the rusting, but does anyone have a sol
ution to the paint coming off? I think the bond with the alumin(i)um is
broken as I tighten the screws but doesn't become really visible until I
unscrew them. I had the aircraft professionally painted but I'm guessin
g it's difficult to scuff up the countersinks.
While I'm on the subject of removing tanks, does anyone have a solution to
removing the second-to-most-inboard row of baffle bracket bolts without
losing major amounts of skin? I use a short (3") wrench but I can only
just get my hand in place. All 21 bolts are difficult to remove but thos
e three are the worst.
Ian Brown,
RV-9A C-GOHM, Bromont, Quebec
Message 7
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | FBOs at KHEF Manassas Regional VA |
Listers--Planning a trip this weekend to KHEF Manassas Regional in VA and
need overnight hangar. There are three FBOs:
Dulles Aviation
Chantilly Air
APP Jet Center
Any preferences?
Thanks.
LeRoy Johnston RV-6A Esperanza 314 hrs OH
Message 8
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: RV8A Building Question |
Jerry, I built an RV-8A and an RV-8, both quickbuilds.=C2- My advice to y
ou is to go ahead and buy the manual
from Van's. You will need to do lots of reading & study to figure out where
the previous builder left off. Even
with the manual, it took quite a bit of study to determine where the quickb
uild part started.
Walt Shipley
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 3:41:36 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RV-List: RV8A Building Question
Dear Listers ...
I bought a partially complete kit. =C2-The building manual was not all th
ere
and I'm, therefore, not sure which step to begin next. =C2-There are seve
ral
places where rivets are not installed (pending steps to take, in sequence
I'm sure).
I would like to learn from this vast group of builders:
What should I do to make sure I begin at the next step to keep the sequence
of steps in order? =C2-It wouldn't be smart to get to a place then find s
everal
rivets need drilled-out to install something else.
I don't mind buying a new build manual if that's called for, or replacing
missing prints.
What would you gents do in this case?
Many thank for your answers ...
Jerry
jerry@mc.net
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|