---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 06/15/10: 8 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:22 AM - Re: Kalispell MT (Charles Rowbotham) 2. 09:45 AM - Paint flaking off in countersunk holes (Ian) 3. 12:43 PM - RV8A Building Question (Jerry Grimmonpre) 4. 01:23 PM - Re: Paint flaking off in countersunk holes (Linn Walters) 5. 01:37 PM - Re: Flap Fuse (Gene Lee) 6. 05:17 PM - Re: Paint flaking off in countersunk holes (jhnstniii@aol.com) 7. 05:34 PM - FBOs at KHEF Manassas Regional VA (jhnstniii@aol.com) 8. 06:23 PM - Re: RV8A Building Question (rveighta@comcast.net) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:22:59 AM PST US From: Charles Rowbotham Subject: RE: RV-List: Kalispell MT Hi Fred=2C Glad to hear your trip is going well. Have a great and safe trip! Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A (sold) > Date: Tue=2C 15 Jun 2010 00:44:53 -0400 > From: wstucklen1@cox.net > To: RV-List@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Kalispell MT > > > Hi All=2C > > I'm in Kalispell MT for the next couple of days=2C and have some free tim e. Is there anybody in this area that needs some electrical or mechanical h elp? I've built three RV-s=2C and helped several other builders with electr ical and mechanical solutions for their planes. The weather looks like it's about to take a turn for the worst=2C so I won't be flying in the area=2C so will be free Tues & Wed. Thursday morning I leave for Canada and then Fa irbanks..... > > Fred Stucklen > RV-7A N924RV 385 Hrs (Flying) > RV-6A N926RV 875 Hrs (sold) > RV-6A N925RV 2008 Hrs (Sold) > > Email: wstucklen1@cox.net > 8Cell: 60-490-3933 _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with H otmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid= PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 09:45:01 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Paint flaking off in countersunk holes From: Ian I recently removed a tank and was dismayed to see rusting screws and the paint coming off around the holes. I guess I can use stainless screws instead of the regular ones to avoid the rusting, but does anyone have a solution to the paint coming off? I think the bond with the alumin(i)um is broken as I tighten the screws but doesn't become really visible until I unscrew them. I had the aircraft professionally painted but I'm guessing it's difficult to scuff up the countersinks. While I'm on the subject of removing tanks, does anyone have a solution to removing the second-to-most-inboard row of baffle bracket bolts without losing major amounts of skin? I use a short (3") wrench but I can only just get my hand in place. All 21 bolts are difficult to remove but those three are the worst. Ian Brown, RV-9A C-GOHM, Bromont, Quebec ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 12:43:15 PM PST US From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" Subject: RV-List: RV8A Building Question Dear Listers ... I bought a partially complete kit. The building manual was not all there and I'm, therefore, not sure which step to begin next. There are several places where rivets are not installed (pending steps to take, in sequence I'm sure). I would like to learn from this vast group of builders: What should I do to make sure I begin at the next step to keep the sequence of steps in order? It wouldn't be smart to get to a place then find several rivets need drilled-out to install something else. I don't mind buying a new build manual if that's called for, or replacing missing prints. What would you gents do in this case? Many thank for your answers ... Jerry jerry@mc.net ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 01:23:34 PM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint flaking off in countersunk holes I think there are two issues here ..... the painter may have just painted over the screws instead of loosening them up to paint underneath the heads. The second thing that should have been done is to place nylon washers (aircraft spruce) under the screw heads when they were tightened down, which would have saved most of the cracking paint when the screws were removed. the washers also make it easier to remove the screws. Linn Ian wrote: > I recently removed a tank and was dismayed to see rusting screws and > the paint coming off around the holes. I guess I can use stainless > screws instead of the regular ones to avoid the rusting, but does > anyone have a solution to the paint coming off? I think the bond > with the alumin(i)um is broken as I tighten the screws but doesn't > become really visible until I unscrew them. I had the aircraft > professionally painted but I'm guessing it's difficult to scuff up the > countersinks. > > While I'm on the subject of removing tanks, does anyone have a > solution to removing the second-to-most-inboard row of baffle bracket > bolts without losing major amounts of skin? I use a short (3") wrench > but I can only just get my hand in place. All 21 bolts are difficult > to remove but those three are the worst. > > Ian Brown, > RV-9A C-GOHM, Bromont, Quebec ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 01:37:37 PM PST US From: "Gene Lee" Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap Fuse Follow-up to let everyone know the final resolution in case someone else sees the issue in the future. Grease had worked its way up into the motor and was 'binding it up'. Even with the motor completely detached from everything else, it was drawing 2.5 amps just to start spinning. In fact, it drew so much current that small wisps of smoke came out of it when I applied power. Next time I won't ignore the problem when 7.5 amp fuses are periodically blowing! I found that Usher Precision (http://www.usherprecision.com/aircraft-parts.html) sells just the bare Pittman motor for $110. After swapping the motor out I took it for some touch-n-goes and the problem looks like it's gone. Gene From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ian Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2010 6:20 PM Subject: RV-List: Flap Fuse How about disconnecting the pushrods and checking for resistance to movement by moving each flap manually? Excessive current draw suggests that the motor is struggling. You could divide the movement in two - the motor to the push rods and the push rods to the flaps. If you feel no resistance to movement on the flap side then maybe there's some interference or tightness on the motor side. Could anything be misaligned, interfering or overtightened in motor to pushrod chain? Ian Brown "I have an RV-7a with 700 hours on her and a month ago the flap fuse ( 7.5amps ) blew on two consecutive landings. The fuse has never blown before in those 700 hours. I know I was well below the white arc, 10 to 15 knots below, on both of the landings. After I changed the fuse on those two, it went almost a month without ever happening again, then the fuse below twice more over the course of a few landings. It always blows on the downward movement, but the point at which it's blown varies anywhere between just barely having moved and being as much as 20 degrees when it happens." ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:17:17 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint flaking off in countersunk holes From: jhnstniii@aol.com Ian--We put tinnermans under the tank screws and it makes for a very tidy look and no more paint worries. LeRoy Johnston/David White RV-6A Esperanza 314 hrs Ohio -----Original Message----- From: Ian Sent: Tue, Jun 15, 2010 12:40 pm Subject: RV-List: Paint flaking off in countersunk holes I recently removed a tank and was dismayed to see rusting screws and the paint coming off around the holes. I guess I can use stainless screws in stead of the regular ones to avoid the rusting, but does anyone have a sol ution to the paint coming off? I think the bond with the alumin(i)um is broken as I tighten the screws but doesn't become really visible until I unscrew them. I had the aircraft professionally painted but I'm guessin g it's difficult to scuff up the countersinks. While I'm on the subject of removing tanks, does anyone have a solution to removing the second-to-most-inboard row of baffle bracket bolts without losing major amounts of skin? I use a short (3") wrench but I can only just get my hand in place. All 21 bolts are difficult to remove but thos e three are the worst. Ian Brown, RV-9A C-GOHM, Bromont, Quebec ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 05:34:53 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: FBOs at KHEF Manassas Regional VA From: jhnstniii@aol.com Listers--Planning a trip this weekend to KHEF Manassas Regional in VA and need overnight hangar. There are three FBOs: Dulles Aviation Chantilly Air APP Jet Center Any preferences? Thanks. LeRoy Johnston RV-6A Esperanza 314 hrs OH ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:23:18 PM PST US From: rveighta@comcast.net Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8A Building Question Jerry, I built an RV-8A and an RV-8, both quickbuilds.=C2- My advice to y ou is to go ahead and buy the manual from Van's. You will need to do lots of reading & study to figure out where the previous builder left off. Even with the manual, it took quite a bit of study to determine where the quickb uild part started. Walt Shipley ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 3:41:36 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RV-List: RV8A Building Question Dear Listers ... I bought a partially complete kit. =C2-The building manual was not all th ere and I'm, therefore, not sure which step to begin next. =C2-There are seve ral places where rivets are not installed (pending steps to take, in sequence I'm sure). I would like to learn from this vast group of builders: What should I do to make sure I begin at the next step to keep the sequence of steps in order? =C2-It wouldn't be smart to get to a place then find s everal rivets need drilled-out to install something else. I don't mind buying a new build manual if that's called for, or replacing missing prints. What would you gents do in this case? Many thank for your answers ... Jerry jerry@mc.net =========== =========== MS - =========== e - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin. =========== ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.