---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 08/18/10: 6 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:45 AM - Re: positioning right angle AN fittings (Rob Kochman) 2. 07:01 AM - Re: positioning right angle AN fittings (Linn Walters) 3. 07:42 AM - Re: positioning right angle AN fittings (Jerry Grimmonpre) 4. 09:06 AM - Re: positioning right angle AN fittings (Rob Kochman) 5. 09:47 AM - Re: positioning right angle AN fittings (Linn Walters) 6. 05:33 PM - Re: positioning right angle AN fittings (fiveonepw@aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:45:40 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: positioning right angle AN fittings From: Rob Kochman When I'm tightening an angled fitting into a tapered hole, if it's not where it needs to be when it gets tight, I just back it off a little and retighten, and it goes a little further. Any reason not to do that? -Rob On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 7:38 PM, Jerry Springer wrote: > > > If it was my airplane I would not be cutting on any AN fittings!!!!!! > > Jerry > > > Brian Alley wrote: > >> >> Yes it would. The threads would be cut the full length of the taper, not >> just more threads on the uncut end as a straight die would do. This is an >> excellent idea and I'll be purchasing dies for my tool box ASAP. >> >> >> BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES >> 101 Caroline Circle >> Hurricane, WV 25526 >> www.carbonfibercomposites.net >> 304-562-6800 home >> 304-395-4932 cell >> >> How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck? >> >> >> --- On Tue, 8/17/10, j. davis wrote: >> >> >> >>> From: j. davis >>> Subject: Re: RV-List: positioning right angle AN fittings >>> To: rv-list@matronics.com >>> Date: Tuesday, August 17, 2010, 8:26 PM >>> davis" >>> >>> On 08/16/2010 04:12 AM, StooDDS@aol.com >>> wrote: >>> >>> >>>> Best way to handle this is to run the male thread of >>>> >>>> >>> the fitting into >>> >>> >>>> the appropriate pipe thread die. These are available >>>> >>>> >>> at the hardware >>> >>> >>>> store. Screw it in by hand until it is tight, then >>>> >>>> >>> just a little more. >>> >>> >>>> Clean the threads and try it. If you use a tap on the >>>> >>>> >>> female threads, >>> >>> >>>> the chips are going to fall into the oil >>>> >>>> >>> cooler----------- >>> >>> >>>> Stewart Willoughby >>>> 6,finishing >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> Hmmm, not sure I understand this. These are tapered pipe >>> fittings, are they not? When tight, there are still exposed >>> threads. Adding a few more threads with a die wouldn't >>> change anything, would it? >>> >>> -- Regards, J. >>> >>> Sonex #325 C-FJNJ, Jabiru 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb >>> restoring the Johnston Special >>> http://cleco.ca >>> >>> +-------------------------------------------------------------+ >>> | J. Davis, M.Sc. | (computer science) | >>> | *NIX consulting, SysAdmin | email: jd at >>> lawsonimaging.ca | >>> +-------------------------------------------------------------+ >>> >>> >>> My uncle's an airline pilot... Kinda makes it difficult >>> to hold the bottle though. >>> --- Steven Wright >>> >>> Forum - >>> FAQ, >>> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - >>> List Contribution Web Site - >>> -Matt >>> Dralle, List Admin. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> >> > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:01:05 AM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: positioning right angle AN fittings I guess you're talking about an aluminum fitting .... a steel one won't do that. Basically you're cold-flowing the aluminum, stretching the threads down towards the small end and fracturing the aluminum below the threads. Not a good thing. What you can do, as others have suggested is use a tap or die to cut the threads some so they clock where you want them. Jerry has a valid concern, but we're not adding a couple of turns here. The other thing is to use Teflon pipe dope if you can achieve the desired clocking close to 'tight'. If you use the pipe dope, stabilize the hose or tubing attached to the fitting to keep it from moving. Linn Rob Kochman wrote: > When I'm tightening an angled fitting into a tapered hole, if it's not > where it needs to be when it gets tight, I just back it off a little > and retighten, and it goes a little further. Any reason not to do that? > > -Rob > > On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 7:38 PM, Jerry Springer > wrote: > > > > > > If it was my airplane I would not be cutting on any AN fittings!!!!!! > > Jerry > > > Brian Alley wrote: > > > > > Yes it would. The threads would be cut the full length of the > taper, not just more threads on the uncut end as a straight > die would do. This is an excellent idea and I'll be purchasing > dies for my tool box ASAP. > > > BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES > 101 Caroline Circle > Hurricane, WV 25526 > www.carbonfibercomposites.net > > 304-562-6800 home > 304-395-4932 cell > > How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your > neck? > > > --- On Tue, 8/17/10, j. davis > wrote: > > > > From: j. davis > > Subject: Re: RV-List: positioning right angle AN fittings > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Date: Tuesday, August 17, 2010, 8:26 PM > davis" > > > On 08/16/2010 04:12 AM, StooDDS@aol.com > > wrote: > > > Best way to handle this is to run the male thread of > > > the fitting into > > > the appropriate pipe thread die. These are available > > > at the hardware > > > store. Screw it in by hand until it is tight, then > > > just a little more. > > > Clean the threads and try it. If you use a tap on the > > > female threads, > > > the chips are going to fall into the oil > > > cooler----------- > > > Stewart Willoughby > 6,finishing > > > > Hmmm, not sure I understand this. These are tapered pipe > fittings, are they not? When tight, there are still exposed > threads. Adding a few more threads with a die wouldn't > change anything, would it? > > -- Regards, J. > > Sonex #325 C-FJNJ, Jabiru 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb > restoring the Johnston Special > http://cleco.ca > > +-------------------------------------------------------------+ > | J. Davis, M.Sc. | (computer science) | > | *NIX consulting, SysAdmin | email: jd at > lawsonimaging.ca | > +-------------------------------------------------------------+ > > > My uncle's an airline pilot... Kinda makes it difficult > to hold the bottle though. > --- Steven Wright > > Forum - > FAQ, > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > List Contribution Web Site - > -Matt > Dralle, List Admin. > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > > Un/Subscription, > www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List" > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com > Matt Dralle, List Admin. > ==== > > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > http://kochman.net/N819K > * > > > * ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:42:12 AM PST US From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" Subject: Re: RV-List: positioning right angle AN fittings The die simply cuts the threads higher up the fitting and effectively re-indexes the point where the proper tightness points the 90 fitting about where you want it. Hope this helps. Jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Alley" Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 8:51 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: positioning right angle AN fittings > > Yes it would. The threads would be cut the full length of the taper, not > just more threads on the uncut end as a straight die would do. This is an > excellent idea and I'll be purchasing dies for my tool box ASAP. ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 09:06:21 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: positioning right angle AN fittings From: Rob Kochman Seems to work on steel fittings, too (just did my oil cooler a couple weeks ago). Also, by that logic, wouldn't it mean you shouldn't use a fitting more than once (or tighten it down more than once)? -Rob On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 6:59 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > I guess you're talking about an aluminum fitting .... a steel one won't do > that. Basically you're cold-flowing the aluminum, stretching the threads > down towards the small end and fracturing the aluminum below the threads. > Not a good thing. What you can do, as others have suggested is use a tap or > die to cut the threads some so they clock where you want them. Jerry has a > valid concern, but we're not adding a couple of turns here. The other thing > is to use Teflon pipe dope if you can achieve the desired clocking close to > 'tight'. If you use the pipe dope, stabilize the hose or tubing attached > to the fitting to keep it from moving. > Linn > > Rob Kochman wrote: > > When I'm tightening an angled fitting into a tapered hole, if it's not > where it needs to be when it gets tight, I just back it off a little and > retighten, and it goes a little further. Any reason not to do that? > > -Rob > > On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 7:38 PM, Jerry Springer wrote: > >> >> >> If it was my airplane I would not be cutting on any AN fittings!!!!!! >> >> Jerry >> >> >> Brian Alley wrote: >> >>> >>> Yes it would. The threads would be cut the full length of the taper, not >>> just more threads on the uncut end as a straight die would do. This is an >>> excellent idea and I'll be purchasing dies for my tool box ASAP. >>> >>> >>> BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES >>> 101 Caroline Circle >>> Hurricane, WV 25526 >>> www.carbonfibercomposites.net >>> 304-562-6800 home >>> 304-395-4932 cell >>> >>> How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck? >>> >>> >>> --- On Tue, 8/17/10, j. davis wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>>> From: j. davis >>>> Subject: Re: RV-List: positioning right angle AN fittings >>>> To: rv-list@matronics.com >>>> Date: Tuesday, August 17, 2010, 8:26 PM >>>> davis" >>>> >>>> On 08/16/2010 04:12 AM, StooDDS@aol.com >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>>> Best way to handle this is to run the male thread of >>>>> >>>>> >>>> the fitting into >>>> >>>> >>>>> the appropriate pipe thread die. These are available >>>>> >>>>> >>>> at the hardware >>>> >>>> >>>>> store. Screw it in by hand until it is tight, then >>>>> >>>>> >>>> just a little more. >>>> >>>> >>>>> Clean the threads and try it. If you use a tap on the >>>>> >>>>> >>>> female threads, >>>> >>>> >>>>> the chips are going to fall into the oil >>>>> >>>>> >>>> cooler----------- >>>> >>>> >>>>> Stewart Willoughby >>>>> 6,finishing >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> Hmmm, not sure I understand this. These are tapered pipe >>>> fittings, are they not? When tight, there are still exposed >>>> threads. Adding a few more threads with a die wouldn't >>>> change anything, would it? >>>> >>>> -- Regards, J. >>>> >>>> Sonex #325 C-FJNJ, Jabiru 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb >>>> restoring the Johnston Special >>>> http://cleco.ca >>>> >>>> +-------------------------------------------------------------+ >>>> | J. Davis, M.Sc. | (computer science) | >>>> | *NIX consulting, SysAdmin | email: jd at >>>> lawsonimaging.ca | >>>> +-------------------------------------------------------------+ >>>> >>>> >>>> My uncle's an airline pilot... Kinda makes it difficult >>>> to hold the bottle though. >>>> --- Steven Wright >>>> >>>> Forum - >>>> FAQ, >>>> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - >>>> List Contribution Web Site - >>>> -Matt >>>> Dralle, List Admin. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>> >>> >>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>> >>> >> Un/Subscription, >> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List" target="_blank"> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List >> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> ==== >> >> >> >> > > > -- > Rob Kochman > RV-10 "Finishing" Kit > Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) > http://kochman.net/N819K > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > * > > > * > > * > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 "Finishing" Kit Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:47:54 AM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: positioning right angle AN fittings I believe the oil cooler is aluminum, and it's those threads that are moving .... but out toward the big end. Also, I'm talking about over-tightening a couple of times in order to achieve better clocking. Tapered threads don't need to be installed by that 800 Lb gorilla .... as I've seen done. Same for B nuts. ..... no, not beer nuts :-P .... the nuts on flared fittings. Some folks think a bigger wrench (or hammer) will solve any problem. And, one problem with over-tightening tapered fittings ..... such as those on the oil cooler .... the boss may split somewhere down the airway, leaving you oiling up the countryside. Seen that too. Done by an IA. Sheesh. Linn Rob Kochman wrote: > Seems to work on steel fittings, too (just did my oil cooler a couple > weeks ago). Also, by that logic, wouldn't it mean you shouldn't use a > fitting more than once (or tighten it down more than once)? > > -Rob > > On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 6:59 AM, Linn Walters > > wrote: > > I guess you're talking about an aluminum fitting .... a steel one > won't do that. Basically you're cold-flowing the aluminum, > stretching the threads down towards the small end and fracturing > the aluminum below the threads. Not a good thing. What you can > do, as others have suggested is use a tap or die to cut the > threads some so they clock where you want them. Jerry has a valid > concern, but we're not adding a couple of turns here. The other > thing is to use Teflon pipe dope if you can achieve the desired > clocking close to 'tight'. If you use the pipe dope, stabilize > the hose or tubing attached to the fitting to keep it from moving. > Linn > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:33:40 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: positioning right angle AN fittings From: fiveonepw@aol.com Anyone mention just trying a different fitting?? They usally clock to diff erent angles when tightened... ? Mark -----Original Message----- From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> Sent: Wed, Aug 18, 2010 11:50 am Subject: Re: RV-List: positioning right angle AN fittings I believe the oil cooler is aluminum, and it's those threads that are movi ng .... but out toward the big end.? Also, I'm talking about over-tighteni ng a couple of times in order to achieve better clocking.? Tapered threads don't need to be installed by that 800 Lb gorilla .... as I've seen done. ? Same for B nuts.? ..... no, not beer nuts? :-P .... the nuts on flared fittings.? Some folks think a bigger wrench (or hammer) will solve any pr oblem. And, one problem with over-tightening tapered fittings ..... such as those on the oil cooler .... the boss may split somewhere down the airway, leav ing you oiling up the countryside.? Seen that too.? Done by an IA.? Sheesh .. Linn Rob Kochman wrote: Seems to work on steel fittings, too (just did my oil cooler a couple weeks ago).? Also, by that logic, wouldn't it mean you sh ouldn't use a fitting more than once (or tighten it down more than once)? ? -Rob On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 6:59 AM, Linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.ne t> wrote: I guess you're talking about an aluminum fitting .... a steel one won't do that.? Basically you're cold-flowing the aluminum, stretching the threads down towards the small end and fracturing the aluminum below the threads. ? Not a good thing.? What you can do, as others have suggested is use a ta p or die to cut the threads some so they clock where you want them.? Jerry has a valid concern, but we're not adding a couple of turns here.? The ot her thing is to use Teflon pipe dope if you can achieve the desired clocki ng close to 'tight'.?? If you use the pipe dope, stabilize the hose or tub ing attached to the fitting to keep it from moving. 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