RV-List Digest Archive

Thu 06/30/11


Total Messages Posted: 7



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:28 PM - adjusting cooling baffles (thomas sargent)
     2. 02:36 PM - Re: adjusting cooling baffles (Kelly McMullen)
     3. 02:52 PM - Re: adjusting cooling baffles (Robin Marks)
     4. 03:10 PM - Re: adjusting cooling baffles (Ed Holyoke)
     5. 03:58 PM - Re: adjusting cooling baffles (thomas sargent)
     6. 04:20 PM - Re: adjusting cooling baffles (Ralph E. Capen)
     7. 07:27 PM - Re: adjusting cooling baffles (Bobby Hester)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:28:49 PM PST US
    Subject: adjusting cooling baffles
    From: thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com>
    I notice that CHT on cyl #1 (on my IO-360) is a bit cool and CHT cyl #3 is a bit high. I've seen many planes with small "dams" at the inlet, small strips of aluminum blocking the bottom 1/4" or 1/2" of the cooling fins on cyl #1. Is there any science to this or is it just cut and try? How well does the piece of aluminum have to be secured? Since it's backed up against the fins and, I'm assuming has a flange resting on the inlet ramp, I'm guessing that just using good quality tape holding it down to the inlet ramp will do for testing purposes. Or is there a better way to secure it temoporarily? thanks, -- Tom Sargent


    Message 2


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    Time: 02:36:08 PM PST US
    From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
    Subject: Re: adjusting cooling baffles
    You can use aluminum tape across the fins to do your fine tuning, then make a dam to same dimensions when you find what works. On 6/30/2011 2:20 PM, thomas sargent wrote: > I notice that CHT on cyl #1 (on my IO-360) is a bit cool and CHT cyl > #3 is a bit high. I've seen many planes with small "dams" at the > inlet, small strips of aluminum blocking the bottom 1/4" or 1/2" of > the cooling fins on cyl #1. > > Is there any science to this or is it just cut and try? > > How well does the piece of aluminum have to be secured? Since it's > backed up against the fins and, I'm assuming has a flange resting on > the inlet ramp, I'm guessing that just using good quality tape holding > it down to the inlet ramp will do for testing purposes. Or is there a > better way to secure it temoporarily? > > thanks, > -- > Tom Sargent > * > > > *


    Message 3


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    Time: 02:52:19 PM PST US
    From: Robin Marks <robin@PaintTheWeb.com>
    Subject: adjusting cooling baffles
    Tape will work to R&D. In fact you can use tape as the dam if you want. We made curved =93ramps=94 of various sizes to adjust the cooling. What we found is there was very little we could do to bring down #3 temps due to the rear baffle being nearly flush to the backside of #3 preventing any cooling air to run past the rear fins. Other builders have placed washers back there to force a gap for a little batter air circulation. Because I am running a 200 Hp & the SJ cowl cooling is at a premium. We decided to open up the rear baffle and build a ramp for real cooling air to wrap around the backside of #3. This made a 15+ degree difference and also allowed us to remove most of our forward cooling ramps. Note: we were able to make this adjustment w/o removing the baffle. Robin *From:* owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *thomas sargent *Sent:* Thursday, June 30, 2011 2:21 PM *To:* rv-list *Subject:* RV-List: adjusting cooling baffles I notice that CHT on cyl #1 (on my IO-360) is a bit cool and CHT cyl #3 is a bit high. I've seen many planes with small "dams" at the inlet, small strips of aluminum blocking the bottom 1/4" or 1/2" of the cooling fins on cyl #1. Is there any science to this or is it just cut and try? How well does the piece of aluminum have to be secured? Since it's backed u p against the fins and, I'm assuming has a flange resting on the inlet ramp, I'm guessing that just using good quality tape holding it down to the inlet ramp will do for testing purposes. Or is there a better way to secure it temoporarily? thanks, -- Tom Sargent * * * * ===========* ===========* ===========* ===========* * * ------------------------------ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com


    Message 4


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    Time: 03:10:48 PM PST US
    From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
    Subject: Re: adjusting cooling baffles
    Another thing to look at is the backside of #3. Make sure there's a little gap back there as the fins are very shallow on the intake side and, if the baffle is very tight to the back of the head, not much air can pass by that area. A washer under the baffle mounting screw might be enough to make a d ifference. Pax, Ed Holyoke --- On Thu, 6/30/11, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote: From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: adjusting cooling baffles You can use aluminum tape across the fins to do your fine tuning, then make a dam to same dimensions when you find what works. On 6/30/2011 2:20 PM, thomas sargent wrote: > I notice that CHT on cyl #1 (on my IO-360) is a bit cool and CHT cyl #3 i s a bit high.- I've seen many planes with small "dams" at the inlet, smal l strips of aluminum blocking the bottom 1/4" or 1/2" of the cooling fins o n cyl #1. > > Is there any science to this or is it just cut and try? > > How well does the piece of aluminum have to be secured? Since it's backed up against the fins and, I'm assuming has a flange resting on the inlet ra mp, I'm guessing that just using good quality tape holding it down to the i nlet ramp will do for testing purposes. Or is there a better way to secure it temoporarily? > > thanks, > -- Tom Sargent > * > > > * le, List Admin.


    Message 5


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    Time: 03:58:40 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: adjusting cooling baffles
    From: thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com>
    Robin: Great photos. Thanks. I was thinking about trying a deflector mounted on the back baffle, angling up at about 45 deg. for a couple inches. It might force more air down thru the back fins. Of course, I really don't know how the air is moving in that area. It's probably pretty turbulent and won't move the way I expect it to. I don't think I can move the rear baffle back with a washer at this stage of the game. I'll see if any movement is possible. I doubt it. -- Tom Sargent


    Message 6


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    Time: 04:20:22 PM PST US
    From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: adjusting cooling baffles
    Tom, I was able to get one washer between the rear plate and the cylinder for the screw that holds that back baffle plate to the cylinder. I used one of those washer-holder-tools. It really helped to balance that side..... Ralph -----Original Message----- >From: thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com> >Sent: Jun 30, 2011 4:20 PM >To: rv-list <rv-list@matronics.com> >Subject: RV-List: adjusting cooling baffles > >I notice that CHT on cyl #1 (on my IO-360) is a bit cool and CHT cyl #3 is a >bit high. I've seen many planes with small "dams" at the inlet, small >strips of aluminum blocking the bottom 1/4" or 1/2" of the cooling fins on >cyl #1. > >Is there any science to this or is it just cut and try? > >How well does the piece of aluminum have to be secured? Since it's backed up >against the fins and, I'm assuming has a flange resting on the inlet ramp, >I'm guessing that just using good quality tape holding it down to the inlet >ramp will do for testing purposes. Or is there a better way to secure it >temoporarily? > >thanks, >-- >Tom Sargent


    Message 7


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    Time: 07:27:52 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: adjusting cooling baffles
    From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@newwavecomm.net>
    You can use aluminum tape to find out how much needs to be blocked. 5 yrs la ter and I'm still using tape. Sent from my Verizon iPhone On Jun 30, 2011, at 3:20 PM, thomas sargent <sarg314@gmail.com> wrote: > I notice that CHT on cyl #1 (on my IO-360) is a bit cool and CHT cyl #3 is a bit high. I've seen many planes with small "dams" at the inlet, small st rips of aluminum blocking the bottom 1/4" or 1/2" of the cooling fins on cyl #1. > > Is there any science to this or is it just cut and try? > > How well does the piece of aluminum have to be secured? Since it's backed u p against the fins and, I'm assuming has a flange resting on the inlet ramp, I'm guessing that just using good quality tape holding it down to the inlet ramp will do for testing purposes. Or is there a better way to secure it te moporarily? > > thanks, > -- > Tom Sargent > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= >




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