Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:02 AM - Engine start-up regimen (Bob Collins)
2. 08:14 AM - Re: Engine start-up regimen (Kelly McMullen)
3. 04:04 PM - Re: High CHTs (Doug Weiler)
4. 04:06 PM - Re: Engine start-up regimen (Doug Weiler)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Engine start-up regimen |
Wondering if there's a generally-accepted regimen for the first start-up
of an RV's engine. In my case, it's an IO-360-B1B (from mattituck). I
ask because I noticed on Mr. Checkoway's site that there was a 5-minute
warm-up period (according to his people who were assisting him) and then
he ran it to run-up power, though I'm not sure for how long, nor what
tests -- if any -- he was doing during the run-up, or during the 5
minute-warm-up.
Thanks for any advice.
Also if anyone in St. Paul has a pick-up truck, how 'bout coming out to
KSGS next Saturday and letting me tie an airplane to its bumper?
Do not archive.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Engine start-up regimen |
You need to define the purpose of your ground run. I do not see any
purpose what so ever in a "warm up" unless you have ambient temperatures
cold enough to require an engine pre-heat.
In general, with a freshly overhauled or new engine you want to only
verify there are no leaks and that fuel and oil pressures are in the
ball park. You do not want to let the cylinders get hot enough for any
oil to glaze on the cylinder walls. You want to shut the engine off as
soon as you verify no leaks and proper pressures. Let it cool
completely. If necessary a second run is okay for same reasons. Once you
have any leaks fixed and oil pressure where it belongs, any further
ground run just increases the chances of glazing cylinder walls,
inhibiting break-in. You simply want to get it into the air following
the overhauler's break-in procedure to the letter.
On 9/18/2011 7:59 AM, Bob Collins wrote:
>
> Wondering if there's a generally-accepted regimen for the first
> start-up of an RV's engine. In my case, it's an IO-360-B1B (from
> mattituck). I ask because I noticed on Mr. Checkoway's site that
> there was a 5-minute warm-up period (according to his people who were
> assisting him) and then he ran it to run-up power, though I'm not sure
> for how long, nor what tests -- if any -- he was doing during the
> run-up, or during the 5 minute-warm-up.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Also if anyone in St. Paul has a pick-up truck, how 'bout coming out
> to KSGS next Saturday and letting me tie an airplane to its bumper?
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
Message 3
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Jack:
Our local RV tech counselor Tom Berge has gone through all of the
various solutions to high CHTs in his RV-7A and he thinks he has finally
found the solution. Check out his article "Plan S" in our September
newsletter. Here is the link:
http://www.mnwing.org/Sept2011.pdf
Doug Weiler
pres, Twin Cities RV Builder's Group
On 9/16/2011 9:14 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
> Jack, are your wheel pants and gear leg fairings in place?
>
> Robin
>
> Sent from my iPad2.
>
> On Sep 16, 2011, at 9:00 AM, Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com
> <mailto:mrobert569@hotmail.com>> wrote:
>
>> Based on what you state adding the louvers, or increasing the opening
>> of the cowl outlet area, will definately lower oil and cylinder temps.
>>
>> Mike Robertson
>>
>>
>> > From: jgh2@charter.net <mailto:jgh2@charter.net>
>> > Subject: RV-List: High CHTs
>> > Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 08:35:05 -0400
>> > To: rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
>> >
>> <mailto:jgh2@charter.net>>
>> >
>> > My 6A with 54 hours on a new O-320 still produces CHTs exceeding
>> 400 degrees on all four cylinders when climbing to pattern altitude
>> in 80 degree ambient conditions. They run around 380 degrees at
>> cruise power leaned but the EGTs are about 1430 degrees (the probes
>> are about 2.5 inches from the exhaust flange). The oil temperature
>> never exceeds 200 degrees, the flexible baffles seal tightly to the
>> upper cowling, the upper cowl "eyebrow" ends are sealed, the ignition
>> timing is correct and the carb jet ID has been increased by .003".
>> >
>> > I suspect the lower cowling air outlet area (obstructed by the nose
>> gear strut, exhaust pipes, etc.) restricts the air flow needed to
>> achieve Lycoming's recommended pressure differential between the top
>> and bottom of the engine compartment. The ratio of the cooling air
>> inlet-to-outlet areas appears to be around 1.05 on the stock cowling.
>> Adding two purchased metal louvers would increase it to around 1.24.
>> Measuring the pressure differential is certainly doable but I'm
>> hoping other 6A or 7A owners will share advice based on adding
>> louvers or otherwise improving the air flow through the lower cowling.
>> >
>> > Thanks.
>> >
>> >=====================
>> >==============
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> *
>>
>> ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> rums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> "http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Engine start-up regimen |
Agreed. Bart LaLonde at Aerosport recommends no longer than a 3-minute
ground run. I would look for oil pressure and general operation of all
engine instrumentation and a mag check (or EI check). That's it. The
next engine start should be the first flight.
Doug Weiler
On 9/18/2011 10:11 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> You need to define the purpose of your ground run. I do not see any
> purpose what so ever in a "warm up" unless you have ambient
> temperatures cold enough to require an engine pre-heat.
> In general, with a freshly overhauled or new engine you want to only
> verify there are no leaks and that fuel and oil pressures are in the
> ball park. You do not want to let the cylinders get hot enough for any
> oil to glaze on the cylinder walls. You want to shut the engine off as
> soon as you verify no leaks and proper pressures. Let it cool
> completely. If necessary a second run is okay for same reasons. Once
> you have any leaks fixed and oil pressure where it belongs, any
> further ground run just increases the chances of glazing cylinder
> walls, inhibiting break-in. You simply want to get it into the air
> following the overhauler's break-in procedure to the letter.
>
> On 9/18/2011 7:59 AM, Bob Collins wrote:
>>
>> Wondering if there's a generally-accepted regimen for the first
>> start-up of an RV's engine. In my case, it's an IO-360-B1B (from
>> mattituck). I ask because I noticed on Mr. Checkoway's site that
>> there was a 5-minute warm-up period (according to his people who were
>> assisting him) and then he ran it to run-up power, though I'm not
>> sure for how long, nor what tests -- if any -- he was doing during
>> the run-up, or during the 5 minute-warm-up.
>>
>> Thanks for any advice.
>>
>> Also if anyone in St. Paul has a pick-up truck, how 'bout coming out
>> to KSGS next Saturday and letting me tie an airplane to its bumper?
>>
>> Do not archive.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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