Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:03 AM - Re: High CHTs (Jack Haviland)
2. 08:28 AM - Stiff slider (Charles Brame)
3. 08:01 PM - Re: Stiff slider (vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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Doug,
Thanks for forwarding the link - very interesting reading. If you see
Tom Berge please give him my contact information. I'd like to ask some
detail questions about his experience if he is willing.
Jack H.
810.629.870
On Sep 18, 2011, at 6:58 PM, Doug Weiler wrote:
> Jack:
>
> Our local RV tech counselor Tom Berge has gone through all of the
various solutions to high CHTs in his RV-7A and he thinks he has finally
found the solution. Check out his article "Plan S" in our September
newsletter. Here is the link:
>
> http://www.mnwing.org/Sept2011.pdf
>
> Doug Weiler
> pres, Twin Cities RV Builder's Group
>
>
>
> On 9/16/2011 9:14 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>>
>> Jack, are your wheel pants and gear leg fairings in place?
>>
>> Robin
>>
>> Sent from my iPad2.
>>
>> On Sep 16, 2011, at 9:00 AM, Mike Robertson <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
wrote:
>>
>>> Based on what you state adding the louvers, or increasing the
opening of the cowl outlet area, will definately lower oil and cylinder
temps.
>>>
>>> Mike Robertson
>>>
>>>
>>> > From: jgh2@charter.net
>>> > Subject: RV-List: High CHTs
>>> > Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 08:35:05 -0400
>>> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > My 6A with 54 hours on a new O-320 still produces CHTs exceeding
400 degrees on all four cylinders when climbing to pattern altitude in
80 degree ambient conditions. They run around 380 degrees at cruise
power leaned but the EGTs are about 1430 degrees (the probes are about
2.5 inches from the exhaust flange). The oil temperature never exceeds
200 degrees, the flexible baffles seal tightly to the upper cowling, the
upper cowl "eyebrow" ends are sealed, the ignition timing is correct and
the carb jet ID has been increased by .003".
>>> >
>>> > I suspect the lower cowling air outlet area (obstructed by the
nose gear strut, exhaust pipes, etc.) restricts the air flow needed to
achieve Lycoming's recommended pressure differential between the top and
bottom of the engine compartment. The ratio of the cooling air
inlet-to-outlet areas appears to be around 1.05 on the stock cowling.
Adding two purchased metal louvers would increase it to around 1.24.
Measuring the pressure differential is certainly doable but I'm hoping
other 6A or 7A owners will share advice based on adding louvers or
otherwise improving the air flow through the lower cowling.
>>> >
>>> > Thanks.
>>> >
>>> >=====================
>>> >==============
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV-List
>>> rums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 2
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I had the same problem on my RV-6A.
I added a small, aerodynamically shaped tab to the rear of each side
skirt. By lifting up on the tab and pulling aft, my canopy opens
easily. I made the tabs out of 1"x1" angle, approximately two inches
long, They are riveted to the aft center part of the skirt on each
side. I'll send a picture but it will probably be next week before I
can get out to the airport.
An alternative that I have seen, is a small door handle, or a handle
made from a D shape (like the inside canopy lock handle) bolted to the
rear of the top center stripe of the slider. The handle allows you to
pull up and aft when the canopy is closed.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
----------------------------------------
> Time: 07:08:38 PM PST US
> From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Stiff slider on RV9
>
>
> I am having difficulty with the canopy on my 9A. What happens is
> that it is essentially
> impossible to start it sliding from the closed position.
>
> I thought it was the rear pin blocks that were binding, but it does
> the same thing
> with them completely removed.
>
> If I am inside, I can get it started by slightly pushing up on the
> rear. From the
> outside, the only way is to pull up on the rear. Since the canopy
> rear skirts
> are not yet installed that is now
> possible, but when they are installed it will be impossible. Once I
> get it to move
> about 1/2 - 1 inch, then it moves back easily.
>
> I have checked everything I can think of and everything seems to be
> spot on, but
> I am obviously missing something.
>
> Has anyone run into this problem? Does anyone have suggestions as to
> what I should
> look for?
>
> Dick Tasker
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Stiff slider |
Report it to your doctor if it lasts for more than 4 hrs....otherwise it's
permanent. ;o)
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
com>
Sent: Tue, Sep 20, 2011 8:29 am
Subject: RV-List: Stiff slider
I had the same problem on my RV-6A.
I added a small, aerodynamically shaped tab to the rear of each side skirt.
By lifting up on the tab and pulling aft, my canopy opens easily. I made t
he tabs out of 1"x1" angle, approximately two inches long, They are riveted
to the aft center part of the skirt on each side. I'll send a picture but
it will probably be next week before I can get out to the airport.
An alternative that I have seen, is a small door handle, or a handle made f
rom a D shape (like the inside canopy lock handle) bolted to the rear of th
e top center stripe of the slider. The handle allows you to pull up and aft
when the canopy is closed.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
----------------------------------------
Time: 07:08:38 PM PST US
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Subject: RV-List: Stiff slider on RV9
I am having difficulty with the canopy on my 9A. What happens is that it is
essentially
impossible to start it sliding from the closed position.
I thought it was the rear pin blocks that were binding, but it does the sam
e thing
with them completely removed.
If I am inside, I can get it started by slightly pushing up on the rear. Fr
om the
outside, the only way is to pull up on the rear. Since the canopy rear skir
ts
are not yet installed that is now
possible, but when they are installed it will be impossible. Once I get it
to move
about 1/2 - 1 inch, then it moves back easily.
I have checked everything I can think of and everything seems to be spot on
, but
I am obviously missing something.
Has anyone run into this problem? Does anyone have suggestions as to what I
should
look for?
Dick Tasker
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