Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:47 AM - Drain holes on RV-9A ()
2. 05:04 AM - Re: Drain holes on RV-9A (Bobby Hester)
3. 09:31 AM - Simplified Slider Removal (MikeRV6-A)
4. 11:41 AM - Re: Drain holes on RV-9A (Dan Bergeron)
5. 01:38 PM - Re: Simplified Slider Removal (Jeff Luckey)
6. 02:24 PM - Re: Simplified Slider Removal (MikeRV6-A)
7. 03:09 PM - Re: Simplified Slider Removal (John Danielson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Drain holes on RV-9A |
Gentlemen,
I=99ve been looking thorough the archives and find nothing
relating to fuselage drain holes on RVs. How are you handling rain
water that enters tri-gear RVs?
Thanks...
Joe Connell
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Drain holes on RV-9A |
The plans call for drain hole right behind each bulkhead. I can't remember f
or sure but I think I drill 1/8 holes.
Sent from my Verizon iPhone
On May 8, 2012, at 6:45 AM, <jconnell@fmwildblue.com> wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> I=99ve been looking thorough the archives and find nothing relating t
o fuselage drain holes on RVs. How are you handling rain water that enters t
ri-gear RVs?
>
> Thanks...
>
> Joe Connell
>
>
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Simplified Slider Removal |
I wanted to find a way to simplify the task of removal of
the sliding canopy. The picture shows the details.
I shortened the sliding canopy rear anchor assemblies (C665 and C677)
at left and right to leave a gap between these anchors and the rear of
the canopy roller tracks (C657), so that the canopy can slide aft by
about an extra 15/16". This is sufficient to permit lifting the canopy
rollers clear of the track for removal. I added a quick-release pin at
each side to stop the canopy travel at the normal distance. The
quick-release pins are installed in added plastic blocks that are
mounted alongside the new gaps, so that removal of the pins opens the
gaps for removal of the canopy. See picture.
Mike Linse, RV-6A slow-build, Corvallis, OR
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Drain holes on RV-9A |
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Simplified Slider Removal |
That is pretty cool but let me play devil's advocate for a minute:
I wonder about the strength of the plastic used to hold the pin. How strong
is that stuff and would aluminum be a better choice for durability? When the
canopy gets "slammed" open it would put a lot of force on the pin & its
holder.
Jeff Luckey
RV-7A, slow build, starting wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MikeRV6-A
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 09:30
Subject: RV-List: Simplified Slider Removal
I wanted to find a way to simplify the task of removal of
the sliding canopy. The picture shows the details.
I shortened the sliding canopy rear anchor assemblies (C665 and C677)
at left and right to leave a gap between these anchors and the rear of
the canopy roller tracks (C657), so that the canopy can slide aft by
about an extra 15/16". This is sufficient to permit lifting the canopy
rollers clear of the track for removal. I added a quick-release pin at
each side to stop the canopy travel at the normal distance. The
quick-release pins are installed in added plastic blocks that are
mounted alongside the new gaps, so that removal of the pins opens the
gaps for removal of the canopy. See picture.
Mike Linse, RV-6A slow-build, Corvallis, OR
Message 6
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| Subject: | Simplified Slider Removal |
Hi Jeff
I did consider the slammed-canopy question.
The plastic blocks are acetal, AKA delrin, and they are very strong,
although not as strong as aluminum parts of similar dimensions. I
tested by mounting a prototype block in a vise, with a bolt in place
of the quick-release pin, and I hit the "pin" with a hammer repeatedly
with increasing force until the block broke. It took a considerable
blow to break the plastic. A slammed-open canopy would be landing
against two blocks, and there is some small compliance in the canopy
that might make such an event a bit softer than a hammer blow.
Aluminum blocks would be about the same machining task, and stronger.
Plastic blocks could be made with a more purely rectangular shape,
with the result that they would be much harder to break. If I ever
break one, that might be my response.
I have found this arrangement very convenient during my canopy and
cockpit work, and it's a change that's relatively easy to do in a
finished plane.
Mike Linse
> That is pretty cool but let me play devil's advocate for a minute:
> I wonder about the strength of the plastic used to hold the pin. How
> strong
> is that stuff and would aluminum be a better choice for durability? When
> the
> canopy gets "slammed" open it would put a lot of force on the pin & its
> holder.
>
> Jeff Luckey
> RV-7A, slow build, starting wings
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MikeRV6-A
> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 09:30
> Subject: RV-List: Simplified Slider Removal
>
> I wanted to find a way to simplify the task of removal of
> the sliding canopy. The picture shows the details.
-remainder of original msg trimmed-
Message 7
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| Subject: | Simplified Slider Removal |
I did pretty much the same thing to my RV-6 back in 2002. I used a piece of aluminum
angle that I used as a stop.
I drilled a hole thru the angle and tapped the structure below and used a screw
to fasten the angle in place.
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MikeRV6-A
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 3:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Simplified Slider Removal
Hi Jeff
I did consider the slammed-canopy question.
The plastic blocks are acetal, AKA delrin, and they are very strong,
although not as strong as aluminum parts of similar dimensions. I
tested by mounting a prototype block in a vise, with a bolt in place
of the quick-release pin, and I hit the "pin" with a hammer repeatedly
with increasing force until the block broke. It took a considerable
blow to break the plastic. A slammed-open canopy would be landing
against two blocks, and there is some small compliance in the canopy
that might make such an event a bit softer than a hammer blow.
Aluminum blocks would be about the same machining task, and stronger.
Plastic blocks could be made with a more purely rectangular shape,
with the result that they would be much harder to break. If I ever
break one, that might be my response.
I have found this arrangement very convenient during my canopy and
cockpit work, and it's a change that's relatively easy to do in a
finished plane.
Mike Linse
> That is pretty cool but let me play devil's advocate for a minute:
> I wonder about the strength of the plastic used to hold the pin. How
> strong
> is that stuff and would aluminum be a better choice for durability? When
> the
> canopy gets "slammed" open it would put a lot of force on the pin & its
> holder.
>
> Jeff Luckey
> RV-7A, slow build, starting wings
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MikeRV6-A
> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 09:30
> Subject: RV-List: Simplified Slider Removal
>
> I wanted to find a way to simplify the task of removal of
> the sliding canopy. The picture shows the details.
-remainder of original msg trimmed-
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