Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:18 AM - Re: Primer (Dale Ellis)
2. 09:03 AM - Primer (Ian Brown)
3. 11:26 AM - Lycoming Oil Line question (Dale Ellis)
4. 01:05 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (MLWynn@aol.com)
5. 01:05 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Charles Kuss)
6. 01:17 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Bob Collins)
7. 01:46 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Bill Settle)
8. 02:22 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Carl Froehlich)
9. 03:28 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Charles Kuss)
10. 03:47 PM - Re: Primer (Dan Bergeron)
11. 06:59 PM - Primer (R.C. Flyer)
12. 08:16 PM - RV8A O360 low fuel pressure indication (GARY GEMBALA)
13. 08:24 PM - Re: RV8A O360 low fuel pressure indication (Kelly McMullen)
14. 08:55 PM - FS: TruTrak Gemini PFD (David Schaefer)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Oh No. Not another primer war!!
no not archive
On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 1:30 AM, R.C. Flyer <smirdrv@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I am getting back to the build of my RV-6 and need to prime the Fuselage
> Parts. It's been a while, so I'd like to know what the majority of builders
> are using now, and where it can be acquired in So. Ca. Thanks in advance.
>
> R.C.
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I used a Sherwin Williams self-etching epoxy primer product that was
excellent on aluminum. It is called G.B.P 988 and it produces quite a
durable finish for those interior panels that you don't want to paint. It's
sold in 16oz. spray cans or by the quart/gallon.
Ian Brown,
C-GOHM, RV-9A
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Lycoming Oil Line question |
I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is
mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying.
I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it.
The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from
the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop
governor would be mounted.
It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can
cap it off, since I will not be using the governor.
What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of
doing this.
Dale
DAR scheduled for Friday of this week.
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Line question |
Hi Dale,
Oddly enough, I have exactly the same setup, down to the propeller. I am
a few months from the DAR. I understood from Mahlon that it stays were it
is. I was unclear if I might want a constant speed prop at some point and
ordered the engine that way. Be interested in what the actual experts say
about this but as far as I know, Mattituck sent the engine in the correct
configuration to run.
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 8/14/2012 11:26:50 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv8builder.kd0m@gmail.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m@gmail.com>
I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is
mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying.
I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it.
The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from
the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop
governor would be mounted.
It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can
cap it off, since I will not be using the governor.
What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of
doing this.
Dale
DAR scheduled for Friday of this week.
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Line question |
Dale,
-Actually, leaving that line and the adapter for the governor on, will al
low you to NOT have to remove the front plug from the crankshaft to pierce
the rear plug. Piercing the rear plug [and replacing the front plug] is nor
mally necessary to allow the pressurized oil in the crankshaft a place to g
o [when not using a C/S prop] That pipe gives the pressurized oil a way bac
k to the crankcase, without having to remove the front plug and pierce the
rear. This will come in handy if you ever change your mind and decide to in
stall a C/S prop.
Charlie
--- On Tue, 8/14/12, Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m@gmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question
I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank.- It is
mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying.
I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it.
The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from
the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop
governor would be mounted.
It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can
cap it off, since I will not be using the governor.
What or your thoughts on this.- This is the first that I have heard of
doing this.
Dale
DAR scheduled for Friday of this week.
le, List Admin.
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Lycoming Oil Line question |
Yep. Same arrangement I got (and paid for) from Mattituck. Not sure who is
suggesting you need to rip it out but stop listening to them. :*)
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MLWynn@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question
Hi Dale,
Oddly enough, I have exactly the same setup, down to the propeller. I am a
few months from the DAR. I understood from Mahlon that it stays were it is.
I was unclear if I might want a constant speed prop at some point and
ordered the engine that way. Be interested in what the actual experts say
about this but as far as I know, Mattituck sent the engine in the correct
configuration to run.
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 8/14/2012 11:26:50 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv8builder.kd0m@gmail.com writes:
I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is
mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying.
I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it.
The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from
the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop
governor would be mounted.
It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can
cap it off, since I will not be using the governor.
What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of
doing this.
Dale
DAR scheduled for Friday of this ies ay - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS
- List Contribution Web Site p;
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Line question |
Hi Dale,
Congratulations! This is my understanding as well. You remove the line and
stick a plug in the hole if you are not going Constant Speed.
Good Luck!
Bill.
________________________________
From: Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m@gmail.com>
Sent: Tue, August 14, 2012 2:29:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question
I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is
mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying.
I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it.
The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from
the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop
governor would be mounted.
It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can
cap it off, since I will not be using the governor.
What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of
doing this.
Dale
DAR scheduled for Friday of this week.
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Line question |
A couple of thoughts. I started out with a FP prop on my 8A. After 350 hours
I put on a Hartzell blended airfoil prop. The performance change was huge. If
there is anyway you can go with a CS prop, do so.
If you stay with the FP prop, you do want to remove and cap off the governor oil
line. As discussed in the Lycoming Service Instruction 1435, to mount a FP
prop you need to remove the forward crank oil seal and then pierce the rear crank
oil seal. Once done you replace the forward crank oil seal (with a new one
- available at Van's and other places). This to allow oil coming into the space
between the oil seals from the journal bearing to have a path back to the
sump. This prevents the forward seal being blown out from pressure buildup.
Removing the pipe and capping off the ends just eliminates an oil path to this
between the seals space.
Save the pipe, it is very expensive and you may want to shift to a CS prop someday
like I did. Reversing the process requires you to replace the rear seal.
Not hard if you have the right tool. Real easy to damager the oil return tube
if you don't have the right tool.
No matter what however, follow the Service Instruction. I would expect your DAR to ask you if you did or not. http://www.lycoming.com/support/publications/service-instructions/pdfs/SI1435.pdf
Carl.
On Aug 14, 2012, at 2:24 PM, Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is
> mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying.
>
> I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it.
>
> The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from
> the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop
> governor would be mounted.
>
> It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can
> cap it off, since I will not be using the governor.
>
> What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of
> doing this.
>
> Dale
> DAR scheduled for Friday of this week.
>
>
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Oil Line question |
Carl,
-I would suggest that you go to the Lycoming List post linked below. [It
is the start of the thread]. Read this post. Scroll down and you will find
links for each continuing post in that thread, so that you will understand
that there is an ALTERNATIVE way of allowing the oil to drain back WITHOUT
removal or puncturing either plug in the nose of the crankshaft. Start at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lycoming/message/7009
Charlie Kuss
more than one way to skin a cat
--- On Tue, 8/14/12, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wrote:
From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question
A couple of thoughts.- I started out with a FP prop on my 8A.- After 35
0 hours I put on a Hartzell blended airfoil prop.- The performance change
was huge.- If there is anyway you can go with a CS prop, do so.
If you stay with the FP prop, you do want to remove and cap off the governo
r oil line.- As discussed in the Lycoming Service Instruction 1435, to mo
unt a FP prop you need to remove the forward crank oil seal and then pierce
the rear crank oil seal.- Once done you replace the forward crank oil se
al (with a new one - available at Van's and other places).- This to allow
oil coming into the space between the oil seals from the journal bearing t
o have a path back to the sump.- This prevents the forward seal being blo
wn out from pressure buildup.- Removing the pipe and capping off the ends
just eliminates an oil path to this between the seals space.
Save the pipe, it is very expensive and you may want to shift to a CS prop
someday like I did.- Reversing the process requires you to replace the re
ar seal.- Not hard if you have the right tool.- Real easy to damage the
oil return tube if you don't have the right tool.
No matter what however, follow the Service Instruction.- I would expect y
our DAR to ask you if you did or not.- http://www.lycoming.com/support/pu
blications/service-instructions/pdfs/SI1435.pdf
Carl.
On Aug 14, 2012, at 2:24 PM, Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank.- It is
> mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying.
>
> I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it.
>
> The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from
> the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop
> governor would be mounted.
>
> It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can
> cap it off, since I will not be using the governor.
>
> What or your thoughts on this.- This is the first that I have heard of
> doing this.
>
> Dale
> DAR scheduled for Friday of this week.
>
>
>
>
le, List Admin.
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
R.C.
I used Sherwin - Williams Industrial Wash Primer (P60 G 2) to prime my
RV-7A - with satisfactory results. I used a cheap spray unit bought from
Home Depot and practiced on parts only the bugs would ever see , e.g. wing
ribs and inside skins. You can buy the stuff from any Sherwin - Williams
paint store that specializes in sales to auto body repair shops, i.e., not
to folks looking to repaint the kitchen or bedroom. It's a lot cheaper
than spray cans - the cheapest way to go is simply not prime at all - but
let's not get into that.
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A - N307TB
340 hours since
first flight on 08/04/2009
On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 8:17 AM, Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m@gmail.com>wrote:
>
> Oh No. Not another primer war!!
>
> no not archive
>
> On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 1:30 AM, R.C. Flyer <smirdrv@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > I am getting back to the build of my RV-6 and need to prime the Fuselage
> > Parts. It's been a while, so I'd like to know what the majority of
> builders
> > are using now, and where it can be acquired in So. Ca. Thanks in
> advance.
> >
> > R.C.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Thanks to all who replied. I will investigate you suggestions an go for wha
t works. your assistance is appreciated.
R.C.
Subject: Re: RV-List: Primer
From: dan.pat.b@gmail.com
R.C.
I used Sherwin - Williams Industrial Wash Primer (P60 G 2) to prime my RV-7
A - with satisfactory results. I used a cheap spray unit bought from Home
Depot and practiced on parts only the bugs would ever see =2C e.g. wing rib
s and inside skins. You can buy the stuff from any Sherwin - Williams pain
t store that specializes in sales to auto body repair shops=2C i.e.=2C not
to folks looking to repaint the kitchen or bedroom. It's a lot cheaper tha
n spray cans - the cheapest way to go is simply not prime at all - but le
t's not get into that.
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A - N307TB
340 hours since
first flight on 08/04/2009
On Tue=2C Aug 14=2C 2012 at 8:17 AM=2C Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m@gmail.co
m> wrote:
Oh No. Not another primer war!!
no not archive
On Tue=2C Aug 14=2C 2012 at 1:30 AM=2C R.C. Flyer <smirdrv@hotmail.com> wro
te:
> I am getting back to the build of my RV-6 and need to prime the Fuselage
> Parts. It's been a while=2C so I'd like to know what the majority of buil
ders
> are using now=2C and where it can be acquired in So. Ca. Thanks in advan
ce.
>
> R.C.
>
>
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le=2C List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV8A O360 low fuel pressure indication |
After way too many years building, today we finally started the Lycoming 0360 in
my RV8A
I have the standard Vans steam gages and the fuel pressure gage never made it into
the green with engine running and boost pump on or off. (same for engine
off and boost pump on) gage off the peg but not in the green.
Fuel delivery test shows good delivery flow - 26 ghp.
Could this be a bad trasnducer or what have others in the group found to resolve
this?
I have checked the listings and not found a good answer.
Gary Gembala
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV8A O360 low fuel pressure indication |
Could you have the gauge intended for injected engines? Are there any
numeric values?
The correct gauge shows green from 0.5 to 8 psi and max value of 15
psi. With the flow you have, either you have the wrong transducer or
wrong guage or both.
Current catalog shows IE VFP 15 and IE 411AB transducer.
Kelly
On 8/14/2012 8:15 PM, GARY GEMBALA wrote:
> After way too many years building, today we finally started the
> Lycoming 0360 in my RV8A
> I have the standard Vans steam gages and the fuel pressure gage never
> made it into the green with engine running and boost pump on or off.
> (same for engine off and boost pump on) gage off the peg but not in
> the green.
>
> Fuel delivery test shows good delivery flow - 26 ghp.
>
> Could this be a bad trasnducer or what have others in the group found
> to resolve this?
>
> I have checked the listings and not found a good answer.
>
> Gary Gembala
> *
>
>
> *
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | FS: TruTrak Gemini PFD |
FYI .. if anyone is looking for a TT Gemini PFD for a backup display, I
have a new, in-box unit for $1,100 (shipping included) vs. 1,300 from TT.
Great unit, however I don't have room in my panel for a 3" instrument
right now. Need to wait for the AP version of the Gemini.
Thanks..
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT HX EFIS
Now building N383DS - Zenith CH-750!
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|