---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 08/14/12: 14 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:18 AM - Re: Primer (Dale Ellis) 2. 09:03 AM - Primer (Ian Brown) 3. 11:26 AM - Lycoming Oil Line question (Dale Ellis) 4. 01:05 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (MLWynn@aol.com) 5. 01:05 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Charles Kuss) 6. 01:17 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Bob Collins) 7. 01:46 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Bill Settle) 8. 02:22 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Carl Froehlich) 9. 03:28 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Charles Kuss) 10. 03:47 PM - Re: Primer (Dan Bergeron) 11. 06:59 PM - Primer (R.C. Flyer) 12. 08:16 PM - RV8A O360 low fuel pressure indication (GARY GEMBALA) 13. 08:24 PM - Re: RV8A O360 low fuel pressure indication (Kelly McMullen) 14. 08:55 PM - FS: TruTrak Gemini PFD (David Schaefer) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:18:36 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Primer From: Dale Ellis Oh No. Not another primer war!! no not archive On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 1:30 AM, R.C. Flyer wrote: > I am getting back to the build of my RV-6 and need to prime the Fuselage > Parts. It's been a while, so I'd like to know what the majority of builders > are using now, and where it can be acquired in So. Ca. Thanks in advance. > > R.C. > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 09:03:54 AM PST US From: Ian Brown Subject: RV-List: Primer I used a Sherwin Williams self-etching epoxy primer product that was excellent on aluminum. It is called G.B.P 988 and it produces quite a durable finish for those interior panels that you don't want to paint. It's sold in 16oz. spray cans or by the quart/gallon. Ian Brown, C-GOHM, RV-9A ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 11:26:07 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question From: Dale Ellis I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop governor would be mounted. It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of doing this. Dale DAR scheduled for Friday of this week. ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 01:05:01 PM PST US From: MLWynn@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question Hi Dale, Oddly enough, I have exactly the same setup, down to the propeller. I am a few months from the DAR. I understood from Mahlon that it stays were it is. I was unclear if I might want a constant speed prop at some point and ordered the engine that way. Be interested in what the actual experts say about this but as far as I know, Mattituck sent the engine in the correct configuration to run. Michael Wynn RV 8 Finishing San Ramon, CA In a message dated 8/14/2012 11:26:50 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rv8builder.kd0m@gmail.com writes: --> RV-List message posted by: Dale Ellis I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop governor would be mounted. It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of doing this. Dale DAR scheduled for Friday of this week. ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 01:05:01 PM PST US From: Charles Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question Dale, -Actually, leaving that line and the adapter for the governor on, will al low you to NOT have to remove the front plug from the crankshaft to pierce the rear plug. Piercing the rear plug [and replacing the front plug] is nor mally necessary to allow the pressurized oil in the crankshaft a place to g o [when not using a C/S prop] That pipe gives the pressurized oil a way bac k to the crankcase, without having to remove the front plug and pierce the rear. This will come in handy if you ever change your mind and decide to in stall a C/S prop. Charlie --- On Tue, 8/14/12, Dale Ellis wrote: From: Dale Ellis Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank.- It is mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop governor would be mounted. It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. What or your thoughts on this.- This is the first that I have heard of doing this. Dale DAR scheduled for Friday of this week. le, List Admin. ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 01:17:49 PM PST US From: "Bob Collins" Subject: RE: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question Yep. Same arrangement I got (and paid for) from Mattituck. Not sure who is suggesting you need to rip it out but stop listening to them. :*) do not archive _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MLWynn@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 3:04 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question Hi Dale, Oddly enough, I have exactly the same setup, down to the propeller. I am a few months from the DAR. I understood from Mahlon that it stays were it is. I was unclear if I might want a constant speed prop at some point and ordered the engine that way. Be interested in what the actual experts say about this but as far as I know, Mattituck sent the engine in the correct configuration to run. Michael Wynn RV 8 Finishing San Ramon, CA In a message dated 8/14/2012 11:26:50 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rv8builder.kd0m@gmail.com writes: I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop governor would be mounted. It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of doing this. Dale DAR scheduled for Friday of this ies ay - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - List Contribution Web Site p; ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 01:46:35 PM PST US From: Bill Settle Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question Hi Dale, Congratulations! This is my understanding as well. You remove the line and stick a plug in the hole if you are not going Constant Speed. Good Luck! Bill. ________________________________ From: Dale Ellis Sent: Tue, August 14, 2012 2:29:16 PM Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop governor would be mounted. It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of doing this. Dale DAR scheduled for Friday of this week. ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 02:22:31 PM PST US From: Carl Froehlich Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question A couple of thoughts. I started out with a FP prop on my 8A. After 350 hours I put on a Hartzell blended airfoil prop. The performance change was huge. If there is anyway you can go with a CS prop, do so. If you stay with the FP prop, you do want to remove and cap off the governor oil line. As discussed in the Lycoming Service Instruction 1435, to mount a FP prop you need to remove the forward crank oil seal and then pierce the rear crank oil seal. Once done you replace the forward crank oil seal (with a new one - available at Van's and other places). This to allow oil coming into the space between the oil seals from the journal bearing to have a path back to the sump. This prevents the forward seal being blown out from pressure buildup. Removing the pipe and capping off the ends just eliminates an oil path to this between the seals space. Save the pipe, it is very expensive and you may want to shift to a CS prop someday like I did. Reversing the process requires you to replace the rear seal. Not hard if you have the right tool. Real easy to damager the oil return tube if you don't have the right tool. No matter what however, follow the Service Instruction. I would expect your DAR to ask you if you did or not. http://www.lycoming.com/support/publications/service-instructions/pdfs/SI1435.pdf Carl. On Aug 14, 2012, at 2:24 PM, Dale Ellis wrote: > > I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is > mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. > > I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. > > The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from > the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop > governor would be mounted. > > It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can > cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. > > What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of > doing this. > > Dale > DAR scheduled for Friday of this week. > > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 03:28:06 PM PST US From: Charles Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question Carl, -I would suggest that you go to the Lycoming List post linked below. [It is the start of the thread]. Read this post. Scroll down and you will find links for each continuing post in that thread, so that you will understand that there is an ALTERNATIVE way of allowing the oil to drain back WITHOUT removal or puncturing either plug in the nose of the crankshaft. Start at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lycoming/message/7009 Charlie Kuss more than one way to skin a cat --- On Tue, 8/14/12, Carl Froehlich wrote: From: Carl Froehlich Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question A couple of thoughts.- I started out with a FP prop on my 8A.- After 35 0 hours I put on a Hartzell blended airfoil prop.- The performance change was huge.- If there is anyway you can go with a CS prop, do so. If you stay with the FP prop, you do want to remove and cap off the governo r oil line.- As discussed in the Lycoming Service Instruction 1435, to mo unt a FP prop you need to remove the forward crank oil seal and then pierce the rear crank oil seal.- Once done you replace the forward crank oil se al (with a new one - available at Van's and other places).- This to allow oil coming into the space between the oil seals from the journal bearing t o have a path back to the sump.- This prevents the forward seal being blo wn out from pressure buildup.- Removing the pipe and capping off the ends just eliminates an oil path to this between the seals space. Save the pipe, it is very expensive and you may want to shift to a CS prop someday like I did.- Reversing the process requires you to replace the re ar seal.- Not hard if you have the right tool.- Real easy to damage the oil return tube if you don't have the right tool. No matter what however, follow the Service Instruction.- I would expect y our DAR to ask you if you did or not.- http://www.lycoming.com/support/pu blications/service-instructions/pdfs/SI1435.pdf Carl. On Aug 14, 2012, at 2:24 PM, Dale Ellis wrote: > > I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank.- It is > mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. > > I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. > > The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from > the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop > governor would be mounted. > > It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can > cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. > > What or your thoughts on this.- This is the first that I have heard of > doing this. > > Dale > DAR scheduled for Friday of this week. > > > > le, List Admin. ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 03:47:17 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Primer From: Dan Bergeron R.C. I used Sherwin - Williams Industrial Wash Primer (P60 G 2) to prime my RV-7A - with satisfactory results. I used a cheap spray unit bought from Home Depot and practiced on parts only the bugs would ever see , e.g. wing ribs and inside skins. You can buy the stuff from any Sherwin - Williams paint store that specializes in sales to auto body repair shops, i.e., not to folks looking to repaint the kitchen or bedroom. It's a lot cheaper than spray cans - the cheapest way to go is simply not prime at all - but let's not get into that. Dan Bergeron RV-7A - N307TB 340 hours since first flight on 08/04/2009 On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 8:17 AM, Dale Ellis wrote: > > Oh No. Not another primer war!! > > no not archive > > On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 1:30 AM, R.C. Flyer wrote: > > I am getting back to the build of my RV-6 and need to prime the Fuselage > > Parts. It's been a while, so I'd like to know what the majority of > builders > > are using now, and where it can be acquired in So. Ca. Thanks in > advance. > > > > R.C. > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 06:59:10 PM PST US From: "R.C. Flyer" Subject: RV-List: Primer Thanks to all who replied. I will investigate you suggestions an go for wha t works. your assistance is appreciated. R.C. Subject: Re: RV-List: Primer From: dan.pat.b@gmail.com R.C. I used Sherwin - Williams Industrial Wash Primer (P60 G 2) to prime my RV-7 A - with satisfactory results. I used a cheap spray unit bought from Home Depot and practiced on parts only the bugs would ever see =2C e.g. wing rib s and inside skins. You can buy the stuff from any Sherwin - Williams pain t store that specializes in sales to auto body repair shops=2C i.e.=2C not to folks looking to repaint the kitchen or bedroom. It's a lot cheaper tha n spray cans - the cheapest way to go is simply not prime at all - but le t's not get into that. Dan Bergeron RV-7A - N307TB 340 hours since first flight on 08/04/2009 On Tue=2C Aug 14=2C 2012 at 8:17 AM=2C Dale Ellis wrote: Oh No. Not another primer war!! no not archive On Tue=2C Aug 14=2C 2012 at 1:30 AM=2C R.C. Flyer wro te: > I am getting back to the build of my RV-6 and need to prime the Fuselage > Parts. It's been a while=2C so I'd like to know what the majority of buil ders > are using now=2C and where it can be acquired in So. Ca. Thanks in advan ce. > > R.C. > > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://forums.matronics.com le=2C List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:16:20 PM PST US From: GARY GEMBALA Subject: RV-List: RV8A O360 low fuel pressure indication After way too many years building, today we finally started the Lycoming 0360 in my RV8A I have the standard Vans steam gages and the fuel pressure gage never made it into the green with engine running and boost pump on or off. (same for engine off and boost pump on) gage off the peg but not in the green. Fuel delivery test shows good delivery flow - 26 ghp. Could this be a bad trasnducer or what have others in the group found to resolve this? I have checked the listings and not found a good answer. Gary Gembala ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:24:26 PM PST US From: Kelly McMullen Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8A O360 low fuel pressure indication Could you have the gauge intended for injected engines? Are there any numeric values? The correct gauge shows green from 0.5 to 8 psi and max value of 15 psi. With the flow you have, either you have the wrong transducer or wrong guage or both. Current catalog shows IE VFP 15 and IE 411AB transducer. Kelly On 8/14/2012 8:15 PM, GARY GEMBALA wrote: > After way too many years building, today we finally started the > Lycoming 0360 in my RV8A > I have the standard Vans steam gages and the fuel pressure gage never > made it into the green with engine running and boost pump on or off. > (same for engine off and boost pump on) gage off the peg but not in > the green. > > Fuel delivery test shows good delivery flow - 26 ghp. > > Could this be a bad trasnducer or what have others in the group found > to resolve this? > > I have checked the listings and not found a good answer. > > Gary Gembala > * > > > * ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:55:23 PM PST US From: David Schaefer Subject: RV-List: FS: TruTrak Gemini PFD FYI .. if anyone is looking for a TT Gemini PFD for a backup display, I have a new, in-box unit for $1,100 (shipping included) vs. 1,300 from TT. Great unit, however I don't have room in my panel for a 3" instrument right now. Need to wait for the AP version of the Gemini. Thanks.. David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT HX EFIS Now building N383DS - Zenith CH-750! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.