Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:26 AM - Re: Prep for Assy. (Dan Bergeron)
2. 05:47 AM - Re: Prep for Assy. (Panama Red)
3. 06:19 AM - Prime or not (David Oakes)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Prep for Assy. |
Hi Ed:
Some folks prime and some don't - I won't go into the pros and cons -
that's guaranteed to start a fight - I finished my -7A (a slow build) 3+
years ago - I primed everything with Sherwin - Williams Industrial Wash
Primer - Semi Transparent Green (P60 G2) - I bought it at a Sherwin
Williams store the caters to body shops and professional painters - I used
an "el-cheapo" spray gun from Home Depot - my first efforts were a bit
messy but only the bugs will ever see them - I eventually got pretty good
at it - do not scrimp on respirators - get yourself a high quality, well
fitting 3M or equivalent - keep all garage doors open and use a couple of
box fans to keep the air flowing through - best would be to get yourself a
fresh air respirator which draws fresh air into the mask through a flex
tube from outside - the downside is they tend to be expensive - not sure
the impact of ambient temps - I remember spraying in some pretty cold
conditions here in Massachusetts - when finished I closed the doors, turned
the heat on and got out of there - the parts dried just fine -
hope this helps - good luck and enjoy the build
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A N307TB
376 hours since first flight
on 8/4/09
On Fri, Dec 21, 2012 at 1:39 AM, R.C. Flyer <smirdrv@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks, Ed and Robin;
> I was concerned because I built the wings and the tail sections in '98,
> and only primed the spars of the Horizontal, Verticle, and Rudder. Didn't
> do any of the Wings. this was a "Back Check" before I get too far along.
> R.C.
> ------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 22:29:35 -0800
> From: bicyclop@pacbell.net
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Prep for Assy.
>
>
> Howdy R.C.,
>
> What a lot of guys are doing is using rattle can self-etching primer on
> the faying surfaces and counting on the alclad to do it's job for the
> skins. You don't even have to do that much, but it may assuage your need to
> strive for perfection. Angle stock and thicker plate must be primed as it
> isn't alclad. Steel must be painted. Don't bother priming anything exterior
> as you'll just have to remove it to paint the plane. Sem can be found at
> auto paint supply stores. I've been using rustoleum self-etching primer
> from Lowe's or HD. It's got a nice dark green color and will work well
> enough. Epoxy is bulletproof and a pain in the butt, but if you feel ya
> gotta....
>
> Robin has a pretty good point. Unless you are really young and leave the
> thing out in humid weather for years, you won't live long enough to see
> serious corrosion on the interior. My '63 C-150C, on the other hand, was
> delivered new to Santa Barbara where it sat out on the ramp in the salt fog
> for a lot of years and it finally died of cancer. The wing attach fittings
> looked like croissants! You're probably not going to want to sit your
> airplane outside more than you have to. It's really hard on the paint,
> avionics, and interior, even though we're not too worried about corrosion.
> These airplanes are small. You'll be able to find a hangar to share and
> keep the cost down.
>
> As to cold garages, I have a halogen (electric) heater hanging over my
> workbench that takes the edge off (and a window air conditioner for the
> worst days in summer). I've used those work lights you can get at Lowe's
> Depot for localized heating before. For any kind of painting, including
> priming, you'll want to get the temp up above 65 and keep it there until
> the paint is cured.
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
> RV-6A
> RV-6 Engine nearly complete, Yay!
>
> On 12/20/2012 9:37 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> R.C
>
> Yikes! Is this a primer question?
>
> As a point of reference my D35 Bonanza from 1953 is unprimed and looks
> shiny as the day it first flew. Same with an early 1960's Cessna I owned.
> How long are you planning to keep yours again? I chose not to prime either
> of my RV's. Check back with me is 2065.
>
>
> Robin
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [
> mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com<owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com>]
> *On Behalf Of *R.C. Flyer
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 20, 2012 9:23 PM
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: Prep for Assy.
>
>
> Folks,
> I am building a -6 Fuselage (Slow build) and need to prime parts and the
> interior. What has been determined to be the proper process to use? I'm in
> So. Cal. and the build is being accomplished in the garage. Temps are
> hanging in the low 40's @ night. The Garage is insulated, so it only gets
> down to the mid 50's in there. I've seen "Eco" primers, as well as Epoxy
> primers. This is not going to be a "show" plane, but I do plan on keeping
> it for some time. It may have to live out in the elements at times. What do
> you suggest, and where can it be acquired? Thanks in advance.
>
> R.C.
>
> * *
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Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Prep for Assy. |
Just do what ever you want. In the end one can justify either decision.
However, if you ever sell the aircraft, it might be diffucult to
convince a buyer that bare aluminum is OK.
Parts of my aircraft are now 20 years old. Only sign of rust is on the
steel parts and they were primed and painted. My rollbar is the biggest
problem, if I had to do it again, I would have it powder coated.
Bob
Message 3
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I just finished my RV7A and I alodined every part and then primed with epoxy then
painted as needed.
I found that if I painted some of the interior (in the front under panel) that
the light reflected better and made under the panel easier to view.
Just a thought I did a slow build fuselage also.
Dave
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