Today's Message Index:
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1. 08:46 PM - Canopy Cutting Made Easy! (Matt Dralle)
2. 10:22 PM - LOP Article (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
Message 1
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Subject: | Canopy Cutting Made Easy! |
The first step with any Van's canopy installation is cutting the plexiglass bubble
out of the molding frame. For me, this went smoothly mostly thanks to an awesome
tool called a "Roto-Zip" that is available from a local Lowes hardware
store. I have a right-angle cut-off wheel attachment for it. I can't remember
if this came with it or if I bought it separately as an accessory. In either case,
it is a must have for this Plexi cutting. I got some 3.5" "metal cutting
wheels" for it and I have to say it is the cat's meow when it comes to cutting
the canopies out. The tool has plenty of power and doesn't bog down, yet it is
very controllable and accurate cutting is pretty easy. Don't get me wrong, this
is definitely a manly tool and it requires a fair amount of respect. But it
has just the right weight and fits nicely in your hand. The right-angle attachment
can be unlatched and spun in any direction in relation to the handle and
cord, which is really nice. Highly recommend!
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 150+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Message 2
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What prop do you have on the engine Jeff? I have an 0-360 with AFP
conversion and I was using a wood prop for first flights. The thing had
trouble with off idle acceleration and idling when hot. After 5 months of
tinkering I finally discovered it was the flow divider. Don fixed it for
free and things worked well for a few months. The airplane ran great, idled
great and then seemed to revert to its prior condition but, after
rechecking, it wasn't the flow divider and I never did figure out what
exactly it was. When I was at 35 hours I installed a Sensenich FP metal
prop which is at least 25 pounds heavier with a lot more inertia than the
wood prop. The engine didn't have any more problems with quitting after
landing because the inertia of the metal prop kept the engine turning
through the roughness that would normally cause the engine to quit with the
lighter wood prop installed. I finally messed with the idle mixture on the
servo enough that the engine would idle smooth without the rough running
cycles but that seemed to be a little too lean for off idle acceleration.
When I would push the throttle in during a recovery from a power off stall
or during touch and gos, the engine would sputter and run rough for the
first 1/4 throttle and then smooth out and run well. It never quit under
these conditions but it did bother me so I decided to richen the idle
mixture a bit to stop that from happening. When I did that, the old rough
running idle cycles reared their ugly head again but, at least no more
sputtering off idle when hot.
These rough running idle cycles occur after the engine has warmed up. When
I start the engine (cold) it idles solidly at Don's suggested RPM (750)
until CHTs get over 150 and the under cowl temps get warm. Then, suddenly
it goes into this mode where the prop will spin several blades at 750 RPM
and then the RPM will drop to apppx 600 for a few blades and then back to
750 RPM and, the cycle repeats itself. I think these RPM drops are caused
by the engine loading up after it is warmed up but I can't be sure. When I
first discovered the flow divider was sticking, it was acting that way but
when Don repaired it, it was rock solid (after a mixture adjustment) at 750
RPM for a couple months, even with low inertia wood prop in the middle of a
hot Florida summer. Then it reverted to its old self and caused some
nuisance engine quitting after landing and taxiing. I checked the flow
divider again but that was not the problem. When I've got the cowl off I
always check the intake tube bolts and hose clamps to make sure they aren't
loose and letting the idle go lean (but if my hypothesis is that the engine
is loading up with excess fuel then an intake leak is not likely to be the
problem so go figure). Bottom line is that if I leave the mixture full rich
while idling and taxiing it is not nearly as big an issue with the metal
prop due to inertia. But when I hear the engine start into the rough idle,
that's my clue to lean the mixture and things smooth right out. I've been
going to fly up to Don's and have him look at it and try adjusting it but
haven't had the time. Leaning at idle works well and I would rather have to
do that than have the engine sputtering during a stall recovery or go
around. Just my observations after flying with the setup for four years.
Regards
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Tarpon Sprgs, FL (25 Meters MSL)
________________________________ Original Message
_____________________________________
From: "Jef Vervoort" <jef.vervoortw@telenet.be>
Subject: RE: RV-List: LOP Article - FLYING magazine
RV9A with XIO-320 and Airflow Performance, needs leaning on the ground, near
sea level.
Jef Vervoort, Belgium.
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