Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:11 AM - Re: RV8-List: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing... (Mike Koehn)
2. 04:17 AM - Re: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin (Ralph E. Capen)
3. 05:59 AM - Re: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin (Mark Burns)
4. 06:12 AM - Re: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin (Ralph E. Capen)
5. 06:48 AM - tailwheel powder coating (Vince Frazier)
6. 09:00 AM - Re: tailwheel powder coating (RV6 Flyer)
7. 10:52 AM - Re: tailwheel powder coating (HCRV6@comcast.net)
8. 11:07 AM - Re: tailwheel powder coating (mr.gsun@gmail.com)
9. 03:29 PM - Re: tailwheel powder coating (HCRV6@comcast.net)
10. 07:16 PM - Re: tailwheel powder coating (LARRY C. BOWLES)
11. 08:50 PM - Re: tailwheel powder coating (Kelly McMullen)
12. 08:55 PM - G3x Autopilot & Accessories (Robin Marks)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing... |
I was faced with the same situation on the 8 but had second thoughts about
removing the bushing. In the end I left it in and had the painters
ultrasonically strip the thing in the degreaser tank. That worked reasonably
well. In the end there was a very small amount of oil that leached out of
the bearing or surround during the bake cycle which stained the powder coat
at one small spot on the bottom (depends probably on which way you hang it
on the rack) which even with the white coating was almost unnoticeable. Am
satisfied with the paint job and it surely was better than beating the
housing senseless with a hammer...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2013 5:10 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
--> RV8-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend and
took the wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks
and little hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or brass
sleeve! They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They
expect me to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems
crazy? Is that even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle
knocking, will it?
Help...
Thanks!
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 150+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer
Mode
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin |
Ed,
Thanks for your response. I am especially glad to hear that it cured the issue
in your case.
I'm still looking to review the plans and look at the mounting tube area again
to see if there are differences between the top/forward and bottom/aft sides...that
may influence my solution method.
I am leaning towards your method as it will allow the repair with a minimal amount
of dis-assembly - my plan 'B' is the same as your 'had it to do over'.
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Ed <decaclops@gmail.com>
>Sent: Jul 1, 2013 11:10 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin
>
>
>Howdy Ralph,
>
>Yup, I did it that way. It's a real pain to work behind the engine. I
>drilled the pilot with a Milwaukee angle drill and worked the taper ream
>with an air ratchet. I set the air pressure very low, just high enough
>to keep the ratchet from stalling and used lots of cutting oil. It took
>a long time and was painful to reach, but the nose gear is rock solid
>now. I think I remember beating the firewall up a bit to make room to
>get the taper pin washer, nut, and cotter pin on.
>
>If I had it to do over, I'd probably pull the engine as far as the
>hookups would allow and leave it dangling from the hoist while I worked
>to make better access.
>
>Ed Holyoke
>
>On 7/1/2013 12:59 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>
>> Folks,
>>
>>>From the archives, I have retrieved a number of postings on replacing the AN5-20A
bolt/assembly with a taper pin.
>> That process involves the pin going in from the bottom - requiring separating
the engine mount from the airframe.
>>
>> Has anyone performed this repair from the top-down? This looks like it could
be done with the engine mount still attached. I don't recall the engine-mount
weldment configuration - that may dictate the direction of the taper pin.
>>
>> I have a barely perceptible movement in my nose gear leg and I want to get it
fixed before it gets worse. Acknowledging I am at a less than smooth grass
field which is a contributing factor - this may only be a temporary fix.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ralph Capen
>> RV6A N822AR @ N06 190hrs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin |
Guys,
Another option is to use loctite.
I used loctite 609 with a new bolt and it kept things tight for about two
years. I discovered loctite 680 which is even better for this aplication
and used it about six months ago. So the jury is still out but it's an easy
fix for sure.
Slide the gear leg out. Clean it up and slather it up with loctite and
reassemble.
I move my 7A around without a tow bar most of the time and that "click" of
a loose nose gear is very annoying to me!
And yes you can get apart later if you need to for some reason. Just some
heat from a heat gun will soften it enough for removal.
Mark Burns
7A. 870 hours
>From my Galaxy S3
On July 2, 2013 6:16:41 AM "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Ed,
> Thanks for your response. I am especially glad to hear that it cured the
> issue in your case.
> I'm still looking to review the plans and look at the mounting tube area
> again to see if there are differences between the top/forward and
> bottom/aft sides...that may influence my solution method.
> I am leaning towards your method as it will allow the repair with a minimal
> amount of dis-assembly - my plan 'B' is the same as your 'had it to do over'.
>
> Ralph
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Ed <decaclops@gmail.com>
> >Sent: Jul 1, 2013 11:10 PM
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin
> >
> >
> >Howdy Ralph,
> >
> >Yup, I did it that way. It's a real pain to work behind the engine. I
> drilled the pilot with a Milwaukee angle drill and worked the taper ream
> with an air ratchet. I set the air pressure very low, just high enough to
> keep the ratchet from stalling and used lots of cutting oil. It took a long
> time and was painful to reach, but the nose gear is rock solid now. I think
> I remember beating the firewall up a bit to make room to get the taper pin
> washer, nut, and cotter pin on.
> >
> >If I had it to do over, I'd probably pull the engine as far as the hookups
> would allow and leave it dangling from the hoist while I worked to make
> better access.
> >
> >Ed Holyoke
> >
> >On 7/1/2013 12:59 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
> >>
> >> Folks,
> >>
> >>>From the archives, I have retrieved a number of postings on replacing
> the AN5-20A bolt/assembly with a taper pin.
> >> That process involves the pin going in from the bottom - requiring
> separating the engine mount from the airframe.
> >>
> >> Has anyone performed this repair from the top-down? This looks like it
> could be done with the engine mount still attached. I don't recall the
> engine-mount weldment configuration - that may dictate the direction of the
> taper pin.
> >>
> >> I have a barely perceptible movement in my nose gear leg and I want to
> get it fixed before it gets worse. Acknowledging I am at a less than
> smooth grass field which is a contributing factor - this may only be a
> temporary fix.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Ralph Capen
> >> RV6A N822AR @ N06 190hrs
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin |
Interesting option - I will look in to it!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Mark Burns <burnsm@suddenlink.net>
>Sent: Jul 2, 2013 8:58 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin
>
>
>Guys,
>Another option is to use loctite.
>I used loctite 609 with a new bolt and it kept things tight for about two
>years. I discovered loctite 680 which is even better for this aplication
>and used it about six months ago. So the jury is still out but it's an easy
>fix for sure.
>Slide the gear leg out. Clean it up and slather it up with loctite and
>reassemble.
>I move my 7A around without a tow bar most of the time and that "click" of
>a loose nose gear is very annoying to me!
>And yes you can get apart later if you need to for some reason. Just some
>heat from a heat gun will soften it enough for removal.
>
>Mark Burns
>7A. 870 hours
>
>>From my Galaxy S3
>
>
>On July 2, 2013 6:16:41 AM "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>> Ed,
>> Thanks for your response. I am especially glad to hear that it cured the
>> issue in your case.
>> I'm still looking to review the plans and look at the mounting tube area
>> again to see if there are differences between the top/forward and
>> bottom/aft sides...that may influence my solution method.
>> I am leaning towards your method as it will allow the repair with a minimal
>> amount of dis-assembly - my plan 'B' is the same as your 'had it to do over'.
>>
>> Ralph
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >From: Ed <decaclops@gmail.com>
>> >Sent: Jul 1, 2013 11:10 PM
>> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose gear leg repair using taper pin
>> >
>> >
>> >Howdy Ralph,
>> >
>> >Yup, I did it that way. It's a real pain to work behind the engine. I
>> drilled the pilot with a Milwaukee angle drill and worked the taper ream
>> with an air ratchet. I set the air pressure very low, just high enough to
>> keep the ratchet from stalling and used lots of cutting oil. It took a long
>> time and was painful to reach, but the nose gear is rock solid now. I think
>> I remember beating the firewall up a bit to make room to get the taper pin
>> washer, nut, and cotter pin on.
>> >
>> >If I had it to do over, I'd probably pull the engine as far as the hookups
>> would allow and leave it dangling from the hoist while I worked to make
>> better access.
>> >
>> >Ed Holyoke
>> >
>> >On 7/1/2013 12:59 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Folks,
>> >>
>> >>>From the archives, I have retrieved a number of postings on replacing
>> the AN5-20A bolt/assembly with a taper pin.
>> >> That process involves the pin going in from the bottom - requiring
>> separating the engine mount from the airframe.
>> >>
>> >> Has anyone performed this repair from the top-down? This looks like it
>> could be done with the engine mount still attached. I don't recall the
>> engine-mount weldment configuration - that may dictate the direction of the
>> taper pin.
>> >>
>> >> I have a barely perceptible movement in my nose gear leg and I want to
>> get it fixed before it gets worse. Acknowledging I am at a less than
>> smooth grass field which is a contributing factor - this may only be a
>> temporary fix.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks,
>> >> Ralph Capen
>> >> RV6A N822AR @ N06 190hrs
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | tailwheel powder coating |
SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
Dear Listers,
Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend and
took the
wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks and little
hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or brass
sleeve!
They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They expect me
to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems crazy? Is
that
even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle knocking, will
it?
Help...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle SNIP
Matt,
Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new one, which
requires minor machining around the cam groove. Removal will undoubtedly
loosen it to the point that it is sloppy.
FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting sockets... but
those can't be baked either! They are easier to install/machine, more
durable, and don't require the locking screw to retain them. (Don't
mistake the locking screw for a grease zerk... it's useless to grease the
spindle with it. You need to disassemble the parts to properly grease
them.)
I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for aviation
steel parts. ( I can feel the flames already.) For example, I have an Avid
Flyer engine mount in my shop right now that is about 20 years old and the
powder coating is cracked and flaking in several spots. There is heavy
rust beneath.... which is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been
hangared all of it's life and has only 250 hours on it. To me, that powder
coating is an accident waiting to happen. It's also rather difficult to
strip off. Why anyone would use it is beyond my grasp. Sure, it looks
nice... but is it worth your life if it hides cracks and rust?
YMMV,
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | tailwheel powder coating |
Echoing some of what Vince said=2C I do not like Powder Coast on high stres
s steel airplane parts. The Powder coat tends to hide cracks that paint wi
ll not. Do you want a crack to develop in one of your steel parts and be h
idden from view?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C720+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
Subject: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
From: vincefrazier@gmail.com
SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
=0A
From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
=0A
Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
Dear Listers=2C
=0A
=0A
Well=2C I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend and
took the
=0A
wad of parts including the steel spring=2C bearing knuckles=2C forks and li
ttle
=0A
hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
=0A
=0A
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or brass
sleeve!
=0A
They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They expect me
=0A
to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems crazy? Is th
at
=0A
even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle knocking=2C wil
l it?
=0A
=0A
Help...
=0A
=0A
Thanks!
=0A
Matt Dralle SNIP
Matt=2C
Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new one=2C whi
ch requires minor machining around the cam groove. Removal will undoubtedly
loosen it to the point that it is sloppy.
=0A
FWIW=2C we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting sockets... but t
hose can't be baked either! They are easier to install/machine=2C more dur
able=2C and don't require the locking screw to retain them. (Don't mistake
the locking screw for a grease zerk... it's useless to grease the spindle
with it. You need to disassemble the parts to properly grease them.)
=0A
I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
FWIW=2C in my experience=2C powder coating is not appropriate for aviation
steel parts. ( I can feel the flames already.) For example=2C I have an Avi
d Flyer engine mount in my shop right now that is about 20 years old and th
e powder coating is cracked and flaking in several spots. There is heavy r
ust beneath.... which is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been han
gared all of it's life and has only 250 hours on it. To me=2C that powder
coating is an accident waiting to happen. It's also rather difficult to st
rip off. Why anyone would use it is beyond my grasp. Sure=2C it looks nic
e... but is it worth your life if it hides cracks and rust?
=0A
YMMV=2C
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
=0A
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: tailwheel powder coating |
Back when I was building my RV-6 slider, I discovered that my brand new powder
coated canopy bar was rusted in many places under the powder coating. The only
way I discovered that was that I accidentally chipped the powder coating in one
place and noticed the rust underneath. It took me several weeks of grinding
and chipping to remove all the powder coat so that I could paint the bar. After
that I would be very reluctant to use powder coating on critical steel parts.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2013 9:00:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
Echoing some of what Vince said, I do not like Powder Coast on high stress steel
airplane parts. The Powder coat tends to hide cracks that paint will not. Do
you want a crack to develop in one of your steel parts and be hidden from view?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
Subject: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
From: vincefrazier@gmail.com
SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
From: Matt Dralle < dralle@matronics.com >
Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
Dear Listers,
Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend and took the
wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks and little
hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or brass sleeve!
They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They expect me
to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems crazy? Is that
even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle knocking, will it?
Help...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle SNIP
Matt,
Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new one, which requires
minor machining around the cam groove. Removal will undoubtedly loosen it
to the point that it is sloppy.
FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting sockets... but those can't
be baked either! They are easier to install/machine, more durable, and don't
require the locking screw to retain them. (Don't mistake the locking screw
for a grease zerk... it's useless to grease the spindle with it. You need to
disassemble the parts to properly grease them.)
I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for aviation steel parts.
( I can feel the flames already.) For example, I have an Avid Flyer engine
mount in my shop right now that is about 20 years old and the powder coating
is cracked and flaking in several spots. There is heavy rust beneath.... which
is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been hangared all of it's life and
has only 250 hours on it. To me, that powder coating is an accident waiting
to happen. It's also rather difficult to strip off. Why anyone would use it is
beyond my grasp. Sure, it looks nice... but is it worth your life if it hides
cracks and rust?
YMMV,
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
==========
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: tailwheel powder coating |
What about the engine mount?
Greg
On Jul 2, 2013 10:55 AM, <HCRV6@comcast.net> wrote:
> Back when I was building my RV-6 slider, I discovered that my brand new
> powder coated canopy bar was rusted in many places under the powder
> coating. The only way I discovered that was that I accidentally chipped
> the powder coating in one place and noticed the rust underneath. It took
> me several weeks of grinding and chipping to remove all the powder coat so
> that I could paint the bar. After that I would be very reluctant to use
> powder coating on critical steel parts.
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
> *To: *rv-list@matronics.com
> *Sent: *Tuesday, July 2, 2013 9:00:25 AM
> *Subject: *RE: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
>
>
> Echoing some of what Vince said, I do not like Powder Coast on high stress
> steel airplane parts. The Powder coat tends to hide cracks that paint will
> not. Do you want a crack to develop in one of your steel parts and be
> hidden from view?
>
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 2,720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>
> ------------------------------
> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 08:47:53 -0500
> Subject: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
> From: vincefrazier@gmail.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>
> SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
> From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend and
> took the
> wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks and little
> hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
>
> But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or brass
> sleeve!
> They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They expect me
> to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems crazy? Is
> that
> even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle knocking, will
> it?
>
> Help...
>
> Thanks!
> Matt Dralle SNIP
>
> Matt,
>
> Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new one,
> which requires minor machining around the cam groove. Removal will
> undoubtedly loosen it to the point that it is sloppy.
>
> FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting sockets... but
> those can't be baked either! They are easier to install/machine, more
> durable, and don't require the locking screw to retain them. (Don't
> mistake the locking screw for a grease zerk... it's useless to grease the
> spindle with it. You need to disassemble the parts to properly grease
> them.)
>
> I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
>
> FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for aviation
> steel parts. ( I can feel the flames already.) For example, I have an Avid
> Flyer engine mount in my shop right now that is about 20 years old and the
> powder coating is cracked and flaking in several spots. There is heavy
> rust beneath.... which is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been
> hangared all of it's life and has only 250 hours on it. To me, that powder
> coating is an accident waiting to happen. It's also rather difficult to
> strip off. Why anyone would use it is beyond my grasp. Sure, it looks
> nice... but is it worth your life if it hides cracks and rust?
>
> YMMV,
> Vince
> www.flyboyaccessories.com
>
> *
>
> ==========
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> ===========http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: tailwheel powder coating |
After the canopy frame experience, I ordered the engine mount bare and painted
it myself.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "mr gsun" <mr.gsun@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2013 11:06:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
What about the engine mount?
Greg
On Jul 2, 2013 10:55 AM, < HCRV6@comcast.net > wrote:
Back when I was building my RV-6 slider, I discovered that my brand new powder
coated canopy bar was rusted in many places under the powder coating. The only
way I discovered that was that I accidentally chipped the powder coating in one
place and noticed the rust underneath. It took me several weeks of grinding
and chipping to remove all the powder coat so that I could paint the bar. After
that I would be very reluctant to use powder coating on critical steel parts.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
From: "RV6 Flyer" < rv6_flyer@hotmail.com >
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2013 9:00:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
Echoing some of what Vince said, I do not like Powder Coast on high stress steel
airplane parts. The Powder coat tends to hide cracks that paint will not. Do
you want a crack to develop in one of your steel parts and be hidden from view?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
Subject: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
From: vincefrazier@gmail.com
SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
From: Matt Dralle < dralle@matronics.com >
Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
Dear Listers,
Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend and took the
wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks and little
hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or brass sleeve!
They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They expect me
to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems crazy? Is that
even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle knocking, will it?
Help...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle SNIP
Matt,
Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new one, which requires
minor machining around the cam groove. Removal will undoubtedly loosen it
to the point that it is sloppy.
FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting sockets... but those can't
be baked either! They are easier to install/machine, more durable, and don't
require the locking screw to retain them. (Don't mistake the locking screw
for a grease zerk... it's useless to grease the spindle with it. You need to
disassemble the parts to properly grease them.)
I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for aviation steel parts.
( I can feel the flames already.) For example, I have an Avid Flyer engine
mount in my shop right now that is about 20 years old and the powder coating
is cracked and flaking in several spots. There is heavy rust beneath.... which
is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been hangared all of it's life and
has only 250 hours on it. To me, that powder coating is an accident waiting
to happen. It's also rather difficult to strip off. Why anyone would use it is
beyond my grasp. Sure, it looks nice... but is it worth your life if it hides
cracks and rust?
YMMV,
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
get="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://forums.matronics.com ="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: tailwheel powder coating |
WHAT ABOUT THE LANDING GEAR???????????
From: mr.gsun@gmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 1:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
What about the engine mount?
Greg
On Jul 2, 2013 10:55 AM, <HCRV6@comcast.net> wrote:
Back when I was building my RV-6 slider, I discovered that my brand
new powder coated canopy bar was rusted in many places under the powder
coating. The only way I discovered that was that I accidentally chipped
the powder coating in one place and noticed the rust underneath. It
took me several weeks of grinding and chipping to remove all the powder
coat so that I could paint the bar. After that I would be very
reluctant to use powder coating on critical steel parts.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 2, 2013 9:00:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
Echoing some of what Vince said, I do not like Powder Coast on high
stress steel airplane parts. The Powder coat tends to hide cracks that
paint will not. Do you want a crack to develop in one of your steel
parts and be hidden from view?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 08:47:53 -0500
Subject: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
From: vincefrazier@gmail.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
Dear Listers,
Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this weekend
and took the
wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks and
little
hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze or
brass sleeve!
They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They expect
me
to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems crazy?
Is that
even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle knocking,
will it?
Help...
Thanks!
Matt Dralle SNIP
Matt,
Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new one,
which requires minor machining around the cam groove. Removal will
undoubtedly loosen it to the point that it is sloppy.
FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting sockets...
but those can't be baked either! They are easier to install/machine,
more durable, and don't require the locking screw to retain them.
(Don't mistake the locking screw for a grease zerk... it's useless to
grease the spindle with it. You need to disassemble the parts to
properly grease them.)
I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for aviation
steel parts. ( I can feel the flames already.) For example, I have an
Avid Flyer engine mount in my shop right now that is about 20 years old
and the powder coating is cracked and flaking in several spots. There
is heavy rust beneath.... which is invisible until it flakes. The plane
has been hangared all of it's life and has only 250 hours on it. To me,
that powder coating is an accident waiting to happen. It's also rather
difficult to strip off. Why anyone would use it is beyond my grasp.
Sure, it looks nice... but is it worth your life if it hides cracks and
rust?
YMMV,
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: tailwheel powder coating |
What about all the steel parts that Vans supplies already powder coated?
Like main gear mounts, engine mount, various bellcranks, etc.???
On 7/2/2013 7:15 PM, LARRY C. BOWLES wrote:
> WHAT ABOUT THE LANDING GEAR???????????
> *From:* mr.gsun@gmail.com <mailto:mr.gsun@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 02, 2013 1:06 PM
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
>
> What about the engine mount?
>
> Greg
>
> On Jul 2, 2013 10:55 AM, <HCRV6@comcast.net
> <mailto:HCRV6@comcast.net>> wrote:
>
> Back when I was building my RV-6 slider, I discovered that my
> brand new powder coated canopy bar was rusted in many places under
> the powder coating. The only way I discovered that was that I
> accidentally chipped the powder coating in one place and noticed
> the rust underneath. It took me several weeks of grinding and
> chipping to remove all the powder coat so that I could paint the
> bar. After that I would be very reluctant to use powder coating
> on critical steel parts.
>
> HarryCrosby
> RV-6 N16CX, 1082 hours
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *"RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com
> <mailto:rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>>
> *To: *rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, July 2, 2013 9:00:25 AM
> *Subject: *RE: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
>
>
> Echoing some of what Vince said, I do not like Powder Coast on
> high stress steel airplane parts. The Powder coat tends to hide
> cracks that paint will not. Do you want a crack to develop in one
> of your steel parts and be hidden from view?
>
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 2,720+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 08:47:53 -0500
> Subject: RV-List: tailwheel powder coating
> From: vincefrazier@gmail.com <mailto:vincefrazier@gmail.com>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
>
> SNIPTime: 05:11:24 PM PST US
> From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com <mailto:dralle@matronics.com>>
> Subject: RV-List: Tailwheel Bearing - Separating Bronze Bearing...
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Well, I disassembled the tailwheel on the RV-6 and RV-8 this
> weekend and took the
> wad of parts including the steel spring, bearing knuckles, forks
> and little
> hub caps to the local powdercoaters.
>
> But they won't accept the bearing knuckle because it has a bronze
> or brass sleeve!
> They claim it will leak oil and make a mess in the oven. They
> expect me
> to somehow get that sleeve out of the steel part! That seems
> crazy? Is that
> even possible? Surely it won't just come out with a gentle
> knocking, will it?
>
> Help...
>
> Thanks!
> Matt Dralle SNIP
>
> Matt,
>
> Don't take it out unless you are prepared to install a brand new
> one, which requires minor machining around the cam groove. Removal
> will undoubtedly loosen it to the point that it is sloppy.
>
> FWIW, we use engineered plastic bushings in our mounting
> sockets... but those can't be baked either! They are easier to
> install/machine, more durable, and don't require the locking screw
> to retain them. (Don't mistake the locking screw for a grease
> zerk... it's useless to grease the spindle with it. You need to
> disassemble the parts to properly grease them.)
>
> I suggest that you bead blast the parts and paint them. Sorry.
>
> FWIW, in my experience, powder coating is not appropriate for
> aviation steel parts. ( I can feel the flames already.) For
> example, I have an Avid Flyer engine mount in my shop right now
> that is about 20 years old and the powder coating is cracked and
> flaking in several spots. There is heavy rust beneath.... which
> is invisible until it flakes. The plane has been hangared all of
> it's life and has only 250 hours on it. To me, that powder
> coating is an accident waiting to happen. It's also rather
> difficult to strip off. Why anyone would use it is beyond my
> grasp. Sure, it looks nice... but is it worth your life if it
> hides cracks and rust?
>
> YMMV,
> Vince
> www.flyboyaccessories.com <http://www.flyboyaccessories.com>
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
> *
>
>
> *
-----
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Message 12
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| Subject: | G3x Autopilot & Accessories |
Not sure everyone has seen the new Garmin G3x AP & servos but it looks like
they are kicking it into high gear with full G3x accessories. The AP is on
ly $750! Servos are also $750 ea.
Garmin is also offering a AOA Pitot & Heated AOA Pitot for $199 & $299 with
a regulated AOA Pitot coming. They also have a new back up ADAHRS.
Products
http://www.garmin.com/us/products/intheair/sport-aviation/prices
Here are some videos
http://www.garmin.com/us/products/intheair/sport-aviation/media/
[https://static.garmincdn.com/en/m/g/custom-pages/in-the-air/sport-aviation
/sf/gmc305.jpg]
[https://static.garmincdn.com/en/m/g/custom-pages/in-the-air/sport-aviation
/sf/gap26.jpg]
[https://static.garmincdn.com/en/m/g/custom-pages/in-the-air/sport-aviation
/sf/gsa28.jpg]
[https://static.garmincdn.com/en/m/g/custom-pages/in-the-air/sport-aviation
/sf/gsu25.jpg]
Robin
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