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1. 06:56 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 03/16/15 (Max)
2. 07:12 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/15/15 (n1345p)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 03/16/15 |
Dave,
I would not even run your engine with broken cylinder hold down bolts,
never mind fly in it.
As an A&P since 1976, That cylinder has to come off and all of the nuts/
studs/ bolts that were loose, I would replace. I'd also inspect all of the
rest with a dye penetrate black light inspection and magnifying glass. ANY
SUSPECT STUDS/ BOLTS that look even a little wonky (very technical term)
Replace them. If your not comfortable doing the work, Pull the engine and
have an engine shop do the work.
Check ALL of the cylinder hold down bolts on all of the cylinders. Anything
loose? Fix them.
The bolts are a very intricate part of the engine. They go through hell,
trying to hold the engine together as it's trying to ripe itself apart.
Treat them with respect and while your at it, take a real good look at that
cylinder for cracks around the mounting flange. It now has been subjected
to allot more vibration/ movement then it was designed for. The flange may
not be straight and the bolt holes may have elongated. Check for cracks
here as well.
As for not pulling the engine to do the work, I've pulled many of cylinders
and it's an approved method of repair. That being said, I've also pulled 2
engines to do the work just because we pulled more then 2 cylinders and it
was way easier to do it that way. Your results may vary.
Don't fly it till it's fixed.
--
*Thomas =8BPhy, A&P=8B*
*President/ Technical Counselor*
*EAA Chapter 1345*
*Bend OR*
*RV-7 Builder (repeat offender)=8B*
*541-306-1500*
> I'll defer to the guru mechanics out there, but if it was my plane the
> engine would get pulled, disassembled and repaired as needed. I would
> assume other bolts that had taken up the load of those bolts that you fou
nd
> loose had deformed - and perhaps this is what caused your sheared bolt.
>
>
> Note - Mike Busch has voiced his opinion (which I agree with) that engine
> cylinders cannot be properly removed/replace without removing the engine
> from the aircraft as this impedes achieving correct cylinder bolt torque.
>
>
> Carl
>
>
> Lycoming Cylinder problem
>
>
> Hello fellow RV'rs, Looking for advice, here's my situation \ problem. (
I
> have an RV6, w an 0-320 A2B which was installed rebuilt, modified to 160
> HP,
> during construction about 700 hrs ago). It has been running great, but I
> have been seeing a couple of small oil leaks, (which have gotten to be
> quite annoying.) While doing an oil change recently, I discovered one of
> the
> top cylinder bolts (small one - not the larger thru bolts) had sheared of
f.
> I had not done anything to it whatsoever, nor was there any evidence of
> looseness or an oil leak in that area, the broken part was just sitting
> there, I then jiggled the other upper bolts by hand and . . . 2 of them
> were just finger tight!. Someone (a local A&P) suggested that a good
> welder
> could weld a nut to the broken stud and remove it that way - but that
> sounds
> way to "scary" to me.
>
> Any advice appreciated. Also . . . is the plane grounded until the
> repair??
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> David Wentzell - N233DW
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/15/15 |
I had a broken stud on an older O320. We removed it by welding a washer to what
was left of the stud, then welding a nut to the washer.
O made bent the washer like a Belleville or a funnel to get it on to the stud.
It didn't require a good weld, as the broken stud was not in tension and the
thermal cycle from welding it caused it to loosen in the aluminum alloy case.
Soon after the repair, we went ahead and overhauled the engine. Divco put in all
new studs.
mitch
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