Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:25 AM - Re: RV10 impression (Tim Olson)
2. 04:27 AM - Re: 7.9mm drill bit (Tim Olson)
3. 04:45 AM - Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10 (Tim Olson)
4. 04:53 AM - Re: 7.9mm drill bit (Merems)
5. 05:24 AM - Re: wingtip rib installation (Jim Combs)
6. 06:03 AM - Re: Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10 (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
7. 06:03 AM - Re: wingtip rib installation (Tim Olson)
8. 06:49 AM - Primer question (be kind) (matronix.rv10@4sythe.com)
9. 06:59 AM - Re: Primer question (be kind) (Sean Stephens)
10. 07:27 AM - Re: Primer question (be kind) (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
11. 07:44 AM - Re: Primer question (be kind) (Jim Oke)
12. 07:50 AM - Re: Primer question (be kind) (Sean Stephens)
13. 07:52 AM - Re: Primer question (be kind) (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
14. 08:10 AM - Re: 7.9mm drill bit (Phil White)
15. 08:19 AM - Re: Primer question (be kind) (Tim Olson)
16. 08:37 AM - Re: RV10 impression (son hoang)
17. 08:43 AM - Re: 7.9mm drill bit (Randy DeBauw)
18. 08:46 AM - Re: RV10 impression (Randy DeBauw)
19. 08:46 AM - Re: patterns for Upholstery via Flightline (Phil White)
20. 08:47 AM - Antennas (Jesse Saint)
21. 08:47 AM - Re: 7.9mm drill bit (Randy DeBauw)
22. 08:55 AM - Re: Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10 (Randy DeBauw)
23. 08:58 AM - Re: RV10 impression (Tim Olson)
24. 09:01 AM - Re: Re: patterns for Upholstery via Flightline (Tim Olson)
25. 09:15 AM - Re: Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10 (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
26. 09:16 AM - Re: wingtip rib installation (Randy DeBauw)
27. 09:19 AM - Re: Re: patterns for Upholstery via Flightline (Randy DeBauw)
28. 09:25 AM - Ideal Stripmaster Choices (Sean Stephens)
29. 09:36 AM - Re: "do not archive" (David J. Mittelstadt)
30. 10:05 AM - Re: Primer question (be kind) (Robert G. Wright)
31. 10:09 AM - Re: Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10 (Tim Olson)
32. 10:15 AM - Re: 7.9mm drill bit (Mark Chamberlain)
33. 10:23 AM - Seating (Robert G. Wright)
34. 10:31 AM - Re: Primer question (be kind) (James Ochs)
35. 10:34 AM - Re: Seating (Tim Olson)
36. 11:21 AM - Re: Seating (Rick)
37. 11:25 AM - Re: wingtip rib installation (Mark Ritter)
38. 11:28 AM - Re: Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10 (Randy DeBauw)
39. 11:30 AM - Re: Seating (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
40. 11:37 AM - Re: Wing incidence (Mark Ritter)
41. 11:37 AM - Re: Seating (Randy DeBauw)
42. 11:39 AM - Re: Seating (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
43. 11:41 AM - Re: Primer question (be kind) (Rick)
44. 11:43 AM - (Gary Specketer)
45. 11:47 AM - Re: Seating (Rick)
46. 12:37 PM - Re: 7.9mm drill bit (Mark Grieve)
47. 01:13 PM - Re: Primer question (be kind) (Tim Olson)
48. 01:17 PM - Re: Seating (Tim Olson)
49. 01:34 PM - Re: (No Subject) (lloyddr@wernerco.com)
50. 01:34 PM - Re: Seating (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
51. 01:47 PM - Re: Seating (Dj Merrill)
52. 02:44 PM - Re: Wing incidence (Randy DeBauw)
53. 03:03 PM - Re: Seating (JOHN STARN)
54. 03:40 PM - Heated Pitot Tube Mount (Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr))
55. 03:45 PM - Back to MT Props (Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr))
56. 03:46 PM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Mount (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
57. 03:47 PM - Re: Antennas (Scott Schmidt)
58. 03:49 PM - Re: 7.9mm drill bit (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
59. 03:54 PM - Re: Seating (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
60. 04:17 PM - Re: Back to MT Props (Scott Schmidt)
61. 04:20 PM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Mount (Tim Olson)
62. 04:21 PM - Re: Heated Pitot Tube Mount (Scott Schmidt)
63. 04:25 PM - Re: Seating ()
64. 04:29 PM - Re: Primer question (be kind) (Jack H Sparling, Jr.)
65. 04:33 PM - Re: Primer question (be kind) (Scott Schmidt)
66. 04:51 PM - Re: Ideal Stripmaster Choices (Jack H Sparling, Jr.)
67. 05:27 PM - Re: Ideal Stripmaster Choices (linn walters)
68. 05:46 PM - Re: wingtip rib installation (Jim Combs)
69. 05:50 PM - Re: Rattle Can Primer Question (Jim Combs)
70. 05:53 PM - Re: 7.9mm drill bit (Bill Schlatterer)
71. 06:12 PM - Back seat room (Scott Schmidt)
72. 06:25 PM - Re: Primer question (be kind) (Jim Combs)
73. 06:40 PM - Re: Seating (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
74. 09:16 PM - Antennas (Sheldon Olesen)
75. 09:45 PM - Re: Seating (Scott Schmidt)
76. 10:11 PM - Re: Seating (James Ochs)
77. 10:13 PM - Re: Back seat room (Scott Schmidt)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 impression |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi Son,
Awesome!! I had been wondering what people had to report for how
the blended airfoil prop was working out. I've spoken to a guy
named John at Hartzell about it, and it sounds like they're very
happy with how it came out. They're quoting 12 week leadtimes
right now, and are claiming that it is actually "in production".
I see you also had the report that it was "full aft stick" for
the flare. That's the only part that bugs me....I don't mind
having to go full-aft, as long as in every loading situation
it works. Too bad there's just not a tiny bit more elevator
available. I hope that by keeping a larger sized battery, and
not going to one of the smaller ones, and by having a 2nd battery,
that I can avoid some of the need for plain ballast weight, and
still keep good trim characteristics. It's not a huge worry
though, because I usually fly with 4 full seats. And, I'm used
to nose heavy planes.
Thanks for your PIREP. It helps keep me motiviated to finish!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
son hoang wrote:
> Hi All
>
>
> I went to Aurora, OR to visit the Vans factory and test flew the RV10
> (N410RV) last week
> I did this on purpose so I would have the opportunity to really check out
> the plane instead of test flying it in the chaotic environment of an air
> show
>
> I was very impressed with the smoothness of the IO540 6 cylinders engine and
> the blended airfoil 2 blade prop
> Gus (company pilot) and I carried out a conversation without the headset
> when the engine was at idle ...we did not have to raise our voice...how
> nice
> we did not use the noise canceling headset (Vans' standard issue !!) ...no
> problem...
> even with minimal insulation (i.e.. none) the plane noticeably lacked the
> vibration that I was accustomed to in many RVs that I had the
> opportunity to
> fly in....
> it must be the 6 cylinders engine
>
> 410RV climbed out at about 1700 fpm @ 140 mph with Gus (company pilot - tall
> and probably about 175 lbs) and I (150 lbs) with the tanks more than half
> full
> at 3500 ft as soon as I leveled the plane with 24 in. and 2500 rpm it
> accelerated to about 185-190 mph indicated..Gus commented that 410RV is as
> fast or even faster than 200 hp RV7...and based on my brief experience I
> believe him....I was too busy to take note of more performance numbers but
> this plane was fast and powerful
>
> stalls and slow flight are straight forward and benign just like an
> RV9...controls are heavier than the 6A that I normally fly..that's by
> design..these 10 really are meant for cross country and certainly suitable
> for everyday IFR flying ...the flare to landing required almost full aft
> stick (Gus even put some ballast in the baggage area) ...it was nose
> heavy......
>
> Rob Butt (factory tech counselor) took me for a tour of the factory (I did
> this same tour 2 years ago before I built the 6A)..
> the company now employs about 70 people and I believe Rob told me it is now
> 30 % owned by employees (I like that ownership concept)
>
> what impressed me most was the improvement in the kit and the manual and
> construction instructions...I used to envy the Lanceair guys for the
> quality
> of their construction manuals....
> well envy no more...... Vans finally catch up to the 21st century with the
> RV10 construction manuals
>
> you no longer have to do the wing incident angle...the alignment
> holes are prepunched resulting in much more accurate measurement and much
> time saving..the tail/fuselage fairings fit much much better...the
> intersection fairings between the fuselage and the gear are now included in
> the kit...the standard instrument panel comes in 3 sections so installation
> and servicing radios will be easy
> etc. etc. etc.
>
> you do not have to make reservation for the factory tour or the demo flight
> ....just show up during working hours and request one
> for the demo flight on the RV10 a $50 fee is charged ...it is credited back
> when you buy the kit
>
> I paid the $50 in cash....as much as I was in love with the plane I did not
> order a kit ....I was disciplined I did not want to buy on impulse..
> there needs to be a cooling off period.....
>
> well the 3 days cooling off period was over.... I ordered an RV10 tail kit
> last Monday 3/21/05...it is scheduled to deliver to my hangar at WHP next
> Wed 03/30/05
>
> I am now a repeat offender (enjoy a 3% discount off the airframe cost)
>
> sorry for the long post
>
> Son Hoang
> N64SH -flying 6A
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 7.9mm drill bit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Is this drilling through solid, or tubular material? It would be
nice to know because if it was solid, I'd probably buy 2 bits in
case of having a bit break. If other people find a good source
on these, post it. I still have a good lead time to need it, but
I would like to buy it well in advance. Hey, Mike from Cleaveland...
any chance you could obtain and source these for us 10 builders??
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Chris , Susie McGough wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie McGough"
> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> Are you telling us you have to drill the gear leg Holes ??
> We had to do this on the 6 Tail ...pain in the but.
>
> Chris
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 5:30 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: 7.9mm drill bit
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone purchased the 7.9mm (.311 inch) drill bit that the plans
>> call for to drill the main gear leg sockets? Need a source for an
>> affordable bit, or perhaps we might share a bit among several builders.
>> I learned that Bisco FL carries the metric bit at $2.45 plus at
>> least $7 shipping. Van's tech support told me that they call for this
>> bit that is 1.5 thousanths undersize because 5/16" bolts run
>> undersize, and they want a snug fit for this only bolt that holds our
>> gear leg on!
>>
>> Any thoughts?
>>
>> Phil #40220 (emp & wings done, fuse about 50%) I switched too!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Anh,
In my sundowner I had the extinguisher right between the rear seats.
Embarassingly, it was not hard-mounted. It had been mounted before, but
was removed by some A&P at an annual (all of this before I owned it),
because the install was done without supporting 337 paperwork. So I
just left it sit there when I was flying without rear seat passengers.
When I had passengers, I had it in the seat pouch in the back of the
rear seats.
What I'm wondering (but I don't have a fuse kit yet), is there any
good looking opportunity to place it on maybe the bottom/back side
of that cross bar that goes behind the rear seats at the top?
For the initial flight's I'd probably keep it up front somewhere.
Another question I have is this: Is the bar behind the rear seats
something that is needed for structural cabin integrity in any
way? If not, I'd like to have mine put in with pins, so that if I have
something large to fit in the rear, I can pull the bar. Believe it or
not, I put in my sundowner one day one of those HUGE 2-kid, molded
plastic, tow-behind/combo walk behind bike strollers for the kids.
Took the kids to an airshow in it when one was still too young
to walk. I'd sure like the opportunity to lose that bar behind the
seats for loading large objects.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@mail.ameritel.net>
>
> How/where has anyone thought about a location for the fire extinguisher in a
-10?
> Anh
> #141
>
Message 4
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|
| Subject: | Re: 7.9mm drill bit |
Gents,
Other sources:
Rutland tool (Airgas), McMaster Carr, MSC, Enco. All have online access.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Olson
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 5:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 7.9mm drill bit
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Is this drilling through solid, or tubular material? It would be
nice to know because if it was solid, I'd probably buy 2 bits in
case of having a bit break. If other people find a good source
on these, post it. I still have a good lead time to need it, but
I would like to buy it well in advance. Hey, Mike from Cleaveland...
any chance you could obtain and source these for us 10 builders??
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Chris , Susie McGough wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie McGough"
> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> Are you telling us you have to drill the gear leg Holes ??
> We had to do this on the 6 Tail ...pain in the but.
>
> Chris
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 5:30 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: 7.9mm drill bit
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone purchased the 7.9mm (.311 inch) drill bit that the plans
>> call for to drill the main gear leg sockets? Need a source for an
>> affordable bit, or perhaps we might share a bit among several builders.
>> I learned that Bisco FL carries the metric bit at $2.45 plus at
>> least $7 shipping. Van's tech support told me that they call for this
>> bit that is 1.5 thousanths undersize because 5/16" bolts run
>> undersize, and they want a snug fit for this only bolt that holds our
>> gear leg on!
>>
>> Any thoughts?
>>
>> Phil #40220 (emp & wings done, fuse about 50%) I switched too!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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|
| Subject: | Re: wingtip rib installation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
What you see is NOT the rib flange in the picture. That is the wing skins extending
out past the rib web. The actual rib flange for that rib is inboard of
the rib itself.
Jim Combs
#40192
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
By golly David is right! I was just about up to this step...nice to
see he pointed this out before I got there! Take a peek at this
page from the plans:
http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/24_Plans01.html
You can easily see that the flanges face outboard as he states.
Think it will be easy to rivet the flange to the wingtip with the
flange facing inside?? NOT.
Thanks for pointing that out David!
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Wing Kit - Almost Complete
DO NOT ARCHIVE
David McNeill wrote:
> Note that the picture on Section 24 is incorrect. The picture shows the
> left wing and tip. The picture shows installation of the W-1016-L in the
> left wing tip (flange outboard). The correct rib to install there is the
> W-1016-R (right flange as seen from top view fore to aft, flange inboard
> (in this case "right"). Van's explanation is that the ribs are labeled
> left and right, not for which wing the inhabit but which way the flange
> extends. Anyway the Section 24 picture is wrong and your tips will
> reflex the wrong direction if installed according to the picture.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10 |
Maybe put the exinguisher pointing left-right, attached to the front of the "pedestal"
that one of the front seats sits on. Your feet are going to be up on
the pedals, so it shouldn't be in the way.
Where is the extinguisher in the prototype?
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Anh,
In my sundowner I had the extinguisher right between the rear seats.
Embarassingly, it was not hard-mounted. It had been mounted before, but
was removed by some A&P at an annual (all of this before I owned it),
because the install was done without supporting 337 paperwork. So I
just left it sit there when I was flying without rear seat passengers.
When I had passengers, I had it in the seat pouch in the back of the
rear seats.
What I'm wondering (but I don't have a fuse kit yet), is there any
good looking opportunity to place it on maybe the bottom/back side
of that cross bar that goes behind the rear seats at the top?
For the initial flight's I'd probably keep it up front somewhere.
Another question I have is this: Is the bar behind the rear seats
something that is needed for structural cabin integrity in any
way? If not, I'd like to have mine put in with pins, so that if I have
something large to fit in the rear, I can pull the bar. Believe it or
not, I put in my sundowner one day one of those HUGE 2-kid, molded
plastic, tow-behind/combo walk behind bike strollers for the kids.
Took the kids to an airshow in it when one was still too young
to walk. I'd sure like the opportunity to lose that bar behind the
seats for loading large objects.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@mail.ameritel.net>
>
> How/where has anyone thought about a location for the fire extinguisher in a
-10?
> Anh
> #141
>
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | Re: wingtip rib installation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Agreed, (I believe you're looking at the wing structure as a whole) the
wing skin is what's pictured, and the tip fits inside the wing skin.
But, David and I are referring to part number W-1016-L in the
picture....the small trailing-edge rib that gets riveted inside the
wing-tip itself. I hope I didn't confuse anyone. Does this make
more sense Jim, or is it ME that's confused on this?
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jim Combs wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs"
> <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
> What you see is NOT the rib flange in the picture. That is the wing
> skins extending out past the rib web. The actual rib flange for that
> rib is inboard of the rib itself.
>
> Jim Combs #40192
>
> ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From:
> Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com Date:
> Wed, 23 Mar 2005 21:03:33 -0600
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>
> By golly David is right! I was just about up to this step...nice to
> see he pointed this out before I got there! Take a peek at this
> page from the plans:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/24_Plans01.html
>
> You can easily see that the flanges face outboard as he states. Think
> it will be easy to rivet the flange to the wingtip with the flange
> facing inside?? NOT.
>
> Thanks for pointing that out David!
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Wing Kit - Almost Complete
>
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>
>> Note that the picture on Section 24 is incorrect. The picture shows
>> the left wing and tip. The picture shows installation of the
>> W-1016-L in the left wing tip (flange outboard). The correct rib to
>> install there is the W-1016-R (right flange as seen from top view
>> fore to aft, flange inboard (in this case "right"). Van's
>> explanation is that the ribs are labeled left and right, not for
>> which wing the inhabit but which way the flange extends. Anyway the
>> Section 24 picture is wrong and your tips will reflex the wrong
>> direction if installed according to the picture.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Primer question (be kind) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on using
Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not at all
familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and some RV8 builders
in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior parts.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
HS Skins
40338
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Primer question (be kind) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I'm using that exact primer on my interior. The one reason I use it is
easy prep and cleanup. And the price ends up being about the same when
I get a discount for buying a case of cans when compared to buying the
equivalent in a quart can.
-Sean #40303
matronix.rv10@4sythe.com wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
>
>Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on using
Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not at all
familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and some RV8 builders
in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior parts.
>
>Thoughts?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Kent Forsythe
>HS Skins
>40338
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Primer question (be kind) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Sean,
Out of curiosity, what steps are you going through to prep before spraying? What
product are you using to clean/degrease?
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I'm using that exact primer on my interior. The one reason I use it is
easy prep and cleanup. And the price ends up being about the same when
I get a discount for buying a case of cans when compared to buying the
equivalent in a quart can.
-Sean #40303
matronix.rv10@4sythe.com wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
>
>Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on using
Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not at all
familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and some RV8 builders
in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior parts.
>
>Thoughts?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Kent Forsythe
>HS Skins
>40338
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: Primer question (be kind) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Hi Kent;
Yes, I used about two dozen rattle cans of this stuff while constructing an
RV-6A a few years ago.
Good points: easy to apply in small amounts to things like detail parts,
quick drying (dries to touch in 10 mins or so depending on temp, etc.;
overnight or several days to develop full toughness), convenient (no
compressor to deal with, no gun clean up), not too much waste, do not need
elaborate breathing protection (compared to the more aggressive primers)
Less good points: harder to get a nice even looking appearance on large
areas such as panels, only moderately scratch resistant even after full
drying (compared to some other priming systems), may not be a complete
moisture seal against salt water environments, etc.
Overall I was happy to use it as a simple, cost-effective, solution for an
amateur construction RV project. It met my needs for primer protection in a
relatively dry temperate climate. Bought it in case lots from a local
aircraft supply place. Apparently the pros use it locally for touch ups and
simple repairs.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
> --> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
>
> Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on
> using Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm
> not at all familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here
> and some RV8 builders in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all
> interior parts.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kent Forsythe
> HS Skins
> 40338
>
>
>
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Re: Primer question (be kind) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I am using ScotchBrite on the surfaces, followed by a cleaning with
Acetone or MEK prior to spraying.
-Sean
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
>Sean,
>
>Out of curiosity, what steps are you going through to prep before spraying? What
product are you using to clean/degrease?
>
>Bob #40105
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
>Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 8:55 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
>I'm using that exact primer on my interior. The one reason I use it is
>easy prep and cleanup. And the price ends up being about the same when
>I get a discount for buying a case of cans when compared to buying the
>equivalent in a quart can.
>
>-Sean #40303
>
>matronix.rv10@4sythe.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
>>
>>Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on using
Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not at all
familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and some RV8 builders
in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior parts.
>>
>>Thoughts?
>>
>>Thanks in advance,
>>
>>Kent Forsythe
>>HS Skins
>>40338
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Primer question (be kind) |
I think all off the single part self etching primers are about the same. I've
used DuPont's (expensive @ $19 for a 12oz can) and Marhyde (about $11 for a 19oz
can) and I really don't see a difference in performance. Neither will compare
to the two part primers in adhesion or durability. I don't know about the
two parts, but I can tell you that the one parts will wipe right off if you hit
them with MEK.
Michael
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on using
Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not at all
familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and some RV8 builders
in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior parts.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
HS Skins
40338
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: 7.9mm drill bit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
Chris: Only drill a single hole thru the gear mount tube for a cross
bolt that holds the leg in the mount tube. But the drill size is
special; so I thought if one builder had tracked it down, several of us
could share the bit (easy to mail).
Phil #40220
RV10-List Digest Server wrote on 3/24/2005, 1:57 AM:
> >
>
> Are you telling us you have to drill the gear leg Holes ??
> We had to do this on the 6 Tail ...pain in the but.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Primer question (be kind) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I bought a case of Marhyde early on. I was pretty disappointed overall.
It doesn't go on as uniformly, seems very "thin", and as pointed out
by Michael, it wipes right off with MEK. I found that it was
also EXTREMELY scratchable. In the end, I gave up on MarHyde except for
some very small parts where I really didn't want to mix anything. I've
been using AKZO whenever I will need more than 1/4 cup of primer or so,
and it works fantastically. It's not self-etching, which I would think
is it's only downside, but its a sealing primer. I'd use Variprime,
except that one isn't sealing. Also, AKZO is fairly cheap at just over
$100 for 2 gallons, and it's readily available form Aircraft Spruce.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> I think all off the single part self etching primers are about the
> same. I've used DuPont's (expensive @ $19 for a 12oz can) and
> Marhyde (about $11 for a 19oz can) and I really don't see a
> difference in performance. Neither will compare to the two part
> primers in adhesion or durability. I don't know about the two parts,
> but I can tell you that the one parts will wipe right off if you hit
> them with MEK.
>
> Michael
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of
> matronix.rv10@4sythe.com Sent: Thu 3/24/2005 8:45 AM To:
> rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
>
>
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
>
> Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or
> bad) on using Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle
> cans? I'm not at all familiar with some of the products people have
> mentioned here and some RV8 builders in my EAA group are using the
> 988 cans for all interior parts.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kent Forsythe HS Skins 40338
>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10 impression |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "son hoang" <son@hoangs.com>
Tim
it certainly was nose heavy with just the 2 of us
for me I plan to use an MT prop,
small alternator up front and a B&C alternator installed where the vacuum
pad would be
hope that would help
I do not like to have dead weight in the back either but plan to secure a
traveling tool box, couple of qt. of oil stored at aft of the baggage area
I forgot to mention that the pilots/front passenger sit fairly high in the
cockpit giving them a good commanding view
for a 5'8" guy like me I had plenty of headroom unlike the 6s or 7s
the cabin is wide so you do not have to rub elbow with your fellow traveler
Son
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 impression
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Hi Son,
>
> Awesome!! I had been wondering what people had to report for how
> the blended airfoil prop was working out. I've spoken to a guy
> named John at Hartzell about it, and it sounds like they're very
> happy with how it came out. They're quoting 12 week leadtimes
> right now, and are claiming that it is actually "in production".
>
> I see you also had the report that it was "full aft stick" for
> the flare. That's the only part that bugs me....I don't mind
> having to go full-aft, as long as in every loading situation
> it works. Too bad there's just not a tiny bit more elevator
> available. I hope that by keeping a larger sized battery, and
> not going to one of the smaller ones, and by having a 2nd battery,
> that I can avoid some of the need for plain ballast weight, and
> still keep good trim characteristics. It's not a huge worry
> though, because I usually fly with 4 full seats. And, I'm used
> to nose heavy planes.
>
> Thanks for your PIREP. It helps keep me motiviated to finish!
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> son hoang wrote:
> > Hi All
> >
> >
> > I went to Aurora, OR to visit the Vans factory and test flew the RV10
> > (N410RV) last week
> > I did this on purpose so I would have the opportunity to really check
out
> > the plane instead of test flying it in the chaotic environment of an
air
> > show
> >
> > I was very impressed with the smoothness of the IO540 6 cylinders engine
and
> > the blended airfoil 2 blade prop
> > Gus (company pilot) and I carried out a conversation without the
headset
> > when the engine was at idle ...we did not have to raise our voice...how
> > nice
> > we did not use the noise canceling headset (Vans' standard issue !!)
...no
> > problem...
> > even with minimal insulation (i.e.. none) the plane noticeably lacked
the
> > vibration that I was accustomed to in many RVs that I had the
> > opportunity to
> > fly in....
> > it must be the 6 cylinders engine
> >
> > 410RV climbed out at about 1700 fpm @ 140 mph with Gus (company pilot -
tall
> > and probably about 175 lbs) and I (150 lbs) with the tanks more than
half
> > full
> > at 3500 ft as soon as I leveled the plane with 24 in. and 2500 rpm it
> > accelerated to about 185-190 mph indicated..Gus commented that 410RV is
as
> > fast or even faster than 200 hp RV7...and based on my brief experience
I
> > believe him....I was too busy to take note of more performance numbers
but
> > this plane was fast and powerful
> >
> > stalls and slow flight are straight forward and benign just like an
> > RV9...controls are heavier than the 6A that I normally fly..that's by
> > design..these 10 really are meant for cross country and certainly
suitable
> > for everyday IFR flying ...the flare to landing required almost full
aft
> > stick (Gus even put some ballast in the baggage area) ...it was nose
> > heavy......
> >
> > Rob Butt (factory tech counselor) took me for a tour of the factory (I
did
> > this same tour 2 years ago before I built the 6A)..
> > the company now employs about 70 people and I believe Rob told me it is
now
> > 30 % owned by employees (I like that ownership concept)
> >
> > what impressed me most was the improvement in the kit and the manual and
> > construction instructions...I used to envy the Lanceair guys for the
> > quality
> > of their construction manuals....
> > well envy no more...... Vans finally catch up to the 21st century with
the
> > RV10 construction manuals
> >
> > you no longer have to do the wing incident angle...the alignment
> > holes are prepunched resulting in much more accurate measurement and
much
> > time saving..the tail/fuselage fairings fit much much better...the
> > intersection fairings between the fuselage and the gear are now
included in
> > the kit...the standard instrument panel comes in 3 sections so
installation
> > and servicing radios will be easy
> > etc. etc. etc.
> >
> > you do not have to make reservation for the factory tour or the demo
flight
> > ....just show up during working hours and request one
> > for the demo flight on the RV10 a $50 fee is charged ...it is credited
back
> > when you buy the kit
> >
> > I paid the $50 in cash....as much as I was in love with the plane I did
not
> > order a kit ....I was disciplined I did not want to buy on impulse..
> > there needs to be a cooling off period.....
> >
> > well the 3 days cooling off period was over.... I ordered an RV10 tail
kit
> > last Monday 3/21/05...it is scheduled to deliver to my hangar at WHP
next
> > Wed 03/30/05
> >
> > I am now a repeat offender (enjoy a 3% discount off the airframe cost)
> >
> > sorry for the long post
> >
> > Son Hoang
> > N64SH -flying 6A
> >
>
>
Message 17
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I used 5/16 and you almost have to drive the bolt in. Be very careful when drilling
to keep from over sizing. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil White
Subject: RV10-List: 7.9mm drill bit
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
Has anyone purchased the 7.9mm (.311 inch) drill bit that the plans call
for to drill the main gear leg sockets? Need a source for an affordable
bit, or perhaps we might share a bit among several builders.
I learned that Bisco FL carries the metric bit at $2.45 plus at least
$7 shipping. Van's tech support told me that they call for this bit
that is 1.5 thousanths undersize because 5/16" bolts run undersize, and
they want a snug fit for this only bolt that holds our gear leg on!
Any thoughts?
Phil #40220 (emp & wings done, fuse about 50%) I switched too!
Message 18
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I will be carrying a survival pack that ways about 20 lbs with me along with tow
bar and the oxygen bottle in the back and that should take care of the balance
issue. We will see. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 impression
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi Son,
Awesome!! I had been wondering what people had to report for how
the blended airfoil prop was working out. I've spoken to a guy
named John at Hartzell about it, and it sounds like they're very
happy with how it came out. They're quoting 12 week leadtimes
right now, and are claiming that it is actually "in production".
I see you also had the report that it was "full aft stick" for
the flare. That's the only part that bugs me....I don't mind
having to go full-aft, as long as in every loading situation
it works. Too bad there's just not a tiny bit more elevator
available. I hope that by keeping a larger sized battery, and
not going to one of the smaller ones, and by having a 2nd battery,
that I can avoid some of the need for plain ballast weight, and
still keep good trim characteristics. It's not a huge worry
though, because I usually fly with 4 full seats. And, I'm used
to nose heavy planes.
Thanks for your PIREP. It helps keep me motiviated to finish!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
son hoang wrote:
> Hi All
>
>
> I went to Aurora, OR to visit the Vans factory and test flew the RV10
> (N410RV) last week
> I did this on purpose so I would have the opportunity to really check out
> the plane instead of test flying it in the chaotic environment of an air
> show
>
> I was very impressed with the smoothness of the IO540 6 cylinders engine and
> the blended airfoil 2 blade prop
> Gus (company pilot) and I carried out a conversation without the headset
> when the engine was at idle ...we did not have to raise our voice...how
> nice
> we did not use the noise canceling headset (Vans' standard issue !!) ...no
> problem...
> even with minimal insulation (i.e.. none) the plane noticeably lacked the
> vibration that I was accustomed to in many RVs that I had the
> opportunity to
> fly in....
> it must be the 6 cylinders engine
>
> 410RV climbed out at about 1700 fpm @ 140 mph with Gus (company pilot - tall
> and probably about 175 lbs) and I (150 lbs) with the tanks more than half
> full
> at 3500 ft as soon as I leveled the plane with 24 in. and 2500 rpm it
> accelerated to about 185-190 mph indicated..Gus commented that 410RV is as
> fast or even faster than 200 hp RV7...and based on my brief experience I
> believe him....I was too busy to take note of more performance numbers but
> this plane was fast and powerful
>
> stalls and slow flight are straight forward and benign just like an
> RV9...controls are heavier than the 6A that I normally fly..that's by
> design..these 10 really are meant for cross country and certainly suitable
> for everyday IFR flying ...the flare to landing required almost full aft
> stick (Gus even put some ballast in the baggage area) ...it was nose
> heavy......
>
> Rob Butt (factory tech counselor) took me for a tour of the factory (I did
> this same tour 2 years ago before I built the 6A)..
> the company now employs about 70 people and I believe Rob told me it is now
> 30 % owned by employees (I like that ownership concept)
>
> what impressed me most was the improvement in the kit and the manual and
> construction instructions...I used to envy the Lanceair guys for the
> quality
> of their construction manuals....
> well envy no more...... Vans finally catch up to the 21st century with the
> RV10 construction manuals
>
> you no longer have to do the wing incident angle...the alignment
> holes are prepunched resulting in much more accurate measurement and much
> time saving..the tail/fuselage fairings fit much much better...the
> intersection fairings between the fuselage and the gear are now included in
> the kit...the standard instrument panel comes in 3 sections so installation
> and servicing radios will be easy
> etc. etc. etc.
>
> you do not have to make reservation for the factory tour or the demo flight
> ....just show up during working hours and request one
> for the demo flight on the RV10 a $50 fee is charged ...it is credited back
> when you buy the kit
>
> I paid the $50 in cash....as much as I was in love with the plane I did not
> order a kit ....I was disciplined I did not want to buy on impulse..
> there needs to be a cooling off period.....
>
> well the 3 days cooling off period was over.... I ordered an RV10 tail kit
> last Monday 3/21/05...it is scheduled to deliver to my hangar at WHP next
> Wed 03/30/05
>
> I am now a repeat offender (enjoy a 3% discount off the airframe cost)
>
> sorry for the long post
>
> Son Hoang
> N64SH -flying 6A
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: patterns for Upholstery via Flightline |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
Randy, Dan: I just spoke to Abby at Flightline, as I am only an hour's
drive from her. I have my -10 fuse about 50% complete, so Abby is
planning to drive here to look it over, make patterns as needed so she
can produce the interior panels for the -10.
She is a most pleasant person to deal with, and a homebuiling
enthusiast! Hope this will make it quick and easy for y'all to get
affordable upholstery kits from her when you're ready for them.
Phil #40220 Willowbrook, IL
> Randy
> Is she also doing all of your other interior panels, like she does for
the other RV's? She does outstanding work on the pieces, and the detail
> in covering everything is incredible. I want her to do my entire
> interior, and was wondering how far off from a complete line she will
> be, by using yours, we are all benefiting.
> THX for letting the vendors use yours for their prototypes!
> Dan
Message 20
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|
I am working on getting my antennas bought so I can get started on running
my wires and wiring up my panel. I need two COMMS, a VOR/GS/LOC, a
Transponder, and I already have the rest of them. I am trying to decide on
the low-drag wing-tip versions and so on. Any suggestions? What are ya'll
using?
How many people are working on the Finishing kit? We are about to start.
It would be nice to be flying by Oshkosh, but we'll see if our Engine and
Prop get here on time.
Jesse Saint (RV-10 Kit 241)
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 21
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
It is just the tube Tim. The landing gear leg is solid and no one can drill it.
VERY HARD. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 7.9mm drill bit
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Is this drilling through solid, or tubular material? It would be
nice to know because if it was solid, I'd probably buy 2 bits in
case of having a bit break. If other people find a good source
on these, post it. I still have a good lead time to need it, but
I would like to buy it well in advance. Hey, Mike from Cleaveland...
any chance you could obtain and source these for us 10 builders??
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Chris , Susie McGough wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie McGough"
> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> Are you telling us you have to drill the gear leg Holes ??
> We had to do this on the 6 Tail ...pain in the but.
>
> Chris
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 5:30 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: 7.9mm drill bit
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone purchased the 7.9mm (.311 inch) drill bit that the plans
>> call for to drill the main gear leg sockets? Need a source for an
>> affordable bit, or perhaps we might share a bit among several builders.
>> I learned that Bisco FL carries the metric bit at $2.45 plus at
>> least $7 shipping. Van's tech support told me that they call for this
>> bit that is 1.5 thousanths undersize because 5/16" bolts run
>> undersize, and they want a snug fit for this only bolt that holds our
>> gear leg on!
>>
>> Any thoughts?
>>
>> Phil #40220 (emp & wings done, fuse about 50%) I switched too!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
The bar is structural in my opinion. It ties both of the longerons too each other
and supports the baggage door structure. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Anh,
In my sundowner I had the extinguisher right between the rear seats.
Embarassingly, it was not hard-mounted. It had been mounted before, but
was removed by some A&P at an annual (all of this before I owned it),
because the install was done without supporting 337 paperwork. So I
just left it sit there when I was flying without rear seat passengers.
When I had passengers, I had it in the seat pouch in the back of the
rear seats.
What I'm wondering (but I don't have a fuse kit yet), is there any
good looking opportunity to place it on maybe the bottom/back side
of that cross bar that goes behind the rear seats at the top?
For the initial flight's I'd probably keep it up front somewhere.
Another question I have is this: Is the bar behind the rear seats
something that is needed for structural cabin integrity in any
way? If not, I'd like to have mine put in with pins, so that if I have
something large to fit in the rear, I can pull the bar. Believe it or
not, I put in my sundowner one day one of those HUGE 2-kid, molded
plastic, tow-behind/combo walk behind bike strollers for the kids.
Took the kids to an airshow in it when one was still too young
to walk. I'd sure like the opportunity to lose that bar behind the
seats for loading large objects.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@mail.ameritel.net>
>
> How/where has anyone thought about a location for the fire extinguisher in a
-10?
> Anh
> #141
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 impression |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That MT Prop should help a bit with the CG. I agree about the
headroom. I'm almost 6'2" and I flew with Tom and he's taller
than me I think. There's absolutely no issue with headroom,
or elbow room (except for the very very large) in this plane.
Also, I think the seats raise you higher the more forward they
go, so short people ("midgets" for those with senses of humor,
"vertically challenged" for those with none) should be happy
with that.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
son hoang wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "son hoang" <son@hoangs.com>
>
> Tim
> it certainly was nose heavy with just the 2 of us
> for me I plan to use an MT prop,
> small alternator up front and a B&C alternator installed where the vacuum
> pad would be
> hope that would help
> I do not like to have dead weight in the back either but plan to secure a
> traveling tool box, couple of qt. of oil stored at aft of the baggage area
> I forgot to mention that the pilots/front passenger sit fairly high in the
> cockpit giving them a good commanding view
> for a 5'8" guy like me I had plenty of headroom unlike the 6s or 7s
> the cabin is wide so you do not have to rub elbow with your fellow traveler
> Son
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 4:18 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 impression
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>Hi Son,
>>
>>Awesome!! I had been wondering what people had to report for how
>>the blended airfoil prop was working out. I've spoken to a guy
>>named John at Hartzell about it, and it sounds like they're very
>>happy with how it came out. They're quoting 12 week leadtimes
>>right now, and are claiming that it is actually "in production".
>>
>>I see you also had the report that it was "full aft stick" for
>>the flare. That's the only part that bugs me....I don't mind
>>having to go full-aft, as long as in every loading situation
>>it works. Too bad there's just not a tiny bit more elevator
>>available. I hope that by keeping a larger sized battery, and
>>not going to one of the smaller ones, and by having a 2nd battery,
>>that I can avoid some of the need for plain ballast weight, and
>>still keep good trim characteristics. It's not a huge worry
>>though, because I usually fly with 4 full seats. And, I'm used
>>to nose heavy planes.
>>
>>Thanks for your PIREP. It helps keep me motiviated to finish!
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>son hoang wrote:
>>
>>>Hi All
>>>
>>>
>>>I went to Aurora, OR to visit the Vans factory and test flew the RV10
>>> (N410RV) last week
>>> I did this on purpose so I would have the opportunity to really check
>
> out
>
>>> the plane instead of test flying it in the chaotic environment of an
>
> air
>
>>> show
>>>
>>>I was very impressed with the smoothness of the IO540 6 cylinders engine
>
> and
>
>>> the blended airfoil 2 blade prop
>>> Gus (company pilot) and I carried out a conversation without the
>
> headset
>
>>> when the engine was at idle ...we did not have to raise our voice...how
>>>nice
>>> we did not use the noise canceling headset (Vans' standard issue !!)
>
> ...no
>
>>> problem...
>>> even with minimal insulation (i.e.. none) the plane noticeably lacked
>
> the
>
>>> vibration that I was accustomed to in many RVs that I had the
>>>opportunity to
>>> fly in....
>>> it must be the 6 cylinders engine
>>>
>>>410RV climbed out at about 1700 fpm @ 140 mph with Gus (company pilot -
>
> tall
>
>>> and probably about 175 lbs) and I (150 lbs) with the tanks more than
>
> half
>
>>> full
>>> at 3500 ft as soon as I leveled the plane with 24 in. and 2500 rpm it
>>> accelerated to about 185-190 mph indicated..Gus commented that 410RV is
>
> as
>
>>> fast or even faster than 200 hp RV7...and based on my brief experience
>
> I
>
>>> believe him....I was too busy to take note of more performance numbers
>
> but
>
>>> this plane was fast and powerful
>>>
>>>stalls and slow flight are straight forward and benign just like an
>>> RV9...controls are heavier than the 6A that I normally fly..that's by
>>> design..these 10 really are meant for cross country and certainly
>
> suitable
>
>>> for everyday IFR flying ...the flare to landing required almost full
>
> aft
>
>>> stick (Gus even put some ballast in the baggage area) ...it was nose
>>> heavy......
>>>
>>>Rob Butt (factory tech counselor) took me for a tour of the factory (I
>
> did
>
>>> this same tour 2 years ago before I built the 6A)..
>>> the company now employs about 70 people and I believe Rob told me it is
>
> now
>
>>> 30 % owned by employees (I like that ownership concept)
>>>
>>>what impressed me most was the improvement in the kit and the manual and
>>> construction instructions...I used to envy the Lanceair guys for the
>>>quality
>>> of their construction manuals....
>>> well envy no more...... Vans finally catch up to the 21st century with
>
> the
>
>>> RV10 construction manuals
>>>
>>> you no longer have to do the wing incident angle...the alignment
>>> holes are prepunched resulting in much more accurate measurement and
>
> much
>
>>> time saving..the tail/fuselage fairings fit much much better...the
>>> intersection fairings between the fuselage and the gear are now
>
> included in
>
>>> the kit...the standard instrument panel comes in 3 sections so
>
> installation
>
>>> and servicing radios will be easy
>>> etc. etc. etc.
>>>
>>>you do not have to make reservation for the factory tour or the demo
>
> flight
>
>>> ....just show up during working hours and request one
>>> for the demo flight on the RV10 a $50 fee is charged ...it is credited
>
> back
>
>>> when you buy the kit
>>>
>>>I paid the $50 in cash....as much as I was in love with the plane I did
>
> not
>
>>> order a kit ....I was disciplined I did not want to buy on impulse..
>>> there needs to be a cooling off period.....
>>>
>>>well the 3 days cooling off period was over.... I ordered an RV10 tail
>
> kit
>
>>> last Monday 3/21/05...it is scheduled to deliver to my hangar at WHP
>
> next
>
>>> Wed 03/30/05
>>>
>>>I am now a repeat offender (enjoy a 3% discount off the airframe cost)
>>>
>>>sorry for the long post
>>>
>>>Son Hoang
>>> N64SH -flying 6A
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: patterns for Upholstery via Flightline |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Spectacular, Phil...that will save her a trip up my way. I'm a
couple hundred miles away. I knew there were builders down there,
but didn't know there were any who were that far along. How
far from Milwaukee are you?
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Phil White wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
>
> Randy, Dan: I just spoke to Abby at Flightline, as I am only an hour's
> drive from her. I have my -10 fuse about 50% complete, so Abby is
> planning to drive here to look it over, make patterns as needed so she
> can produce the interior panels for the -10.
>
> She is a most pleasant person to deal with, and a homebuiling
> enthusiast! Hope this will make it quick and easy for y'all to get
> affordable upholstery kits from her when you're ready for them.
>
> Phil #40220 Willowbrook, IL
>
> > Randy
> > Is she also doing all of your other interior panels, like she does for
> the other RV's? She does outstanding work on the pieces, and the detail
> > in covering everything is incredible. I want her to do my entire
> > interior, and was wondering how far off from a complete line she will
> > be, by using yours, we are all benefiting.
> > THX for letting the vendors use yours for their prototypes!
> > Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Solution: Buy a kid's bike trailer that folds up nicely, like a Chariot Cougar
. . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
The bar is structural in my opinion. It ties both of the longerons too each other
and supports the baggage door structure. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Anh,
In my sundowner I had the extinguisher right between the rear seats.
Embarassingly, it was not hard-mounted. It had been mounted before, but
was removed by some A&P at an annual (all of this before I owned it),
because the install was done without supporting 337 paperwork. So I
just left it sit there when I was flying without rear seat passengers.
When I had passengers, I had it in the seat pouch in the back of the
rear seats.
What I'm wondering (but I don't have a fuse kit yet), is there any
good looking opportunity to place it on maybe the bottom/back side
of that cross bar that goes behind the rear seats at the top?
For the initial flight's I'd probably keep it up front somewhere.
Another question I have is this: Is the bar behind the rear seats
something that is needed for structural cabin integrity in any
way? If not, I'd like to have mine put in with pins, so that if I have
something large to fit in the rear, I can pull the bar. Believe it or
not, I put in my sundowner one day one of those HUGE 2-kid, molded
plastic, tow-behind/combo walk behind bike strollers for the kids.
Took the kids to an airshow in it when one was still too young
to walk. I'd sure like the opportunity to lose that bar behind the
seats for loading large objects.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
DejaVu wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@mail.ameritel.net>
>
> How/where has anyone thought about a location for the fire extinguisher in a
-10?
> Anh
> #141
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | wingtip rib installation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
How I installed them was with the web visible and no rivets showing. I thought
it would be hard to drive the rivets that way but it wasn't. I have looked at
410RV and it is the other way. I have looked at several RV's and they are installed
both ways. If you swap sides you can get the dip correct. The way they
are installed on mine looks the smoothest. Hope the helps and not confuse everyone.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: wingtip rib installation
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Agreed, (I believe you're looking at the wing structure as a whole) the
wing skin is what's pictured, and the tip fits inside the wing skin.
But, David and I are referring to part number W-1016-L in the
picture....the small trailing-edge rib that gets riveted inside the
wing-tip itself. I hope I didn't confuse anyone. Does this make
more sense Jim, or is it ME that's confused on this?
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jim Combs wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs"
> <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
> What you see is NOT the rib flange in the picture. That is the wing
> skins extending out past the rib web. The actual rib flange for that
> rib is inboard of the rib itself.
>
> Jim Combs #40192
>
> ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From:
> Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com Date:
> Wed, 23 Mar 2005 21:03:33 -0600
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>
> By golly David is right! I was just about up to this step...nice to
> see he pointed this out before I got there! Take a peek at this
> page from the plans:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/24_Plans01.html
>
> You can easily see that the flanges face outboard as he states. Think
> it will be easy to rivet the flange to the wingtip with the flange
> facing inside?? NOT.
>
> Thanks for pointing that out David!
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Wing Kit - Almost Complete
>
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>
>> Note that the picture on Section 24 is incorrect. The picture shows
>> the left wing and tip. The picture shows installation of the
>> W-1016-L in the left wing tip (flange outboard). The correct rib to
>> install there is the W-1016-R (right flange as seen from top view
>> fore to aft, flange inboard (in this case "right"). Van's
>> explanation is that the ribs are labeled left and right, not for
>> which wing the inhabit but which way the flange extends. Anyway the
>> Section 24 picture is wrong and your tips will reflex the wrong
>> direction if installed according to the picture.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: patterns for Upholstery via Flightline |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Thanks Phil. That will help me as well. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil White
Subject: RV10-List: Re: patterns for Upholstery via Flightline
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
Randy, Dan: I just spoke to Abby at Flightline, as I am only an hour's
drive from her. I have my -10 fuse about 50% complete, so Abby is
planning to drive here to look it over, make patterns as needed so she
can produce the interior panels for the -10.
She is a most pleasant person to deal with, and a homebuiling
enthusiast! Hope this will make it quick and easy for y'all to get
affordable upholstery kits from her when you're ready for them.
Phil #40220 Willowbrook, IL
> Randy
> Is she also doing all of your other interior panels, like she does for
the other RV's? She does outstanding work on the pieces, and the detail
> in covering everything is incredible. I want her to do my entire
> interior, and was wondering how far off from a complete line she will
> be, by using yours, we are all benefiting.
> THX for letting the vendors use yours for their prototypes!
> Dan
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Ideal Stripmaster Choices |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Hey all...
I am approaching the need to get a wire stripper and was wondering if
most of you have used the $150 Custom Stripmaster with the E1000 dies or
if you are getting by with the less expensive knife type dies?
Also was told on the Aerolectric list that you can get the cheaper
handle and buy the E1000 dies. Can someone verify for me that the E1000
dies will fit on the cheaper handles?
Thanks...
-Sean #40303
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 29
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|
"' (rv10-list@matronics.com)'" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: "do not archive" |
ia.net>
One request on the part of the "DO NOT ARCHIVE" phrase now being used
rather aggressively in the list.
Please do not underestimate the value of your post when you decide to
remove it from archive with those famous words "DO NOT ARCHIVE".
Many posts contain information that would be of value to me/us in
future. I have searched the archives for a number of reasons and found
valuable information. Some of this information was found simply by
following a thread of questioning.
The list of books John mentions as well as the comments about priming are
interesting, and may be useful to a future archive browser. Similarly
other comments made recently, and removed from archive with the do not
archive phrase may be likewise valuable to future builders.
Please use the "DO NOT ARCHIVE" phrase judiciously. Archives are valuable,
and can be trimmed by Matt, I expect, if they become excessively large.
Use it, especially if you're making off the wall comments... Though even
"that's the way I did X too, and it worked great" has value when I walk
through the decision making process.
Consider carefully, if information or thoughts on process or building are
contained within the post.
My thoughts...
DaveM
At 11:15 PM 3/21/2005, John W. Cox wrote:
>Since enough of you have jumped over here to Matronics, I will add my two
>cents (Canadian or Australian as you determine). There are a few great
>books you guys might add to your existing and growing library. These are
>AC 43-204 "Visual Inspection for Aircraft" (with cool color pictures of
>corrosion) ISBN 0-16-050415-5; and Department of the Army, Field Manual
>FM1-563 "Fundamentals and Procedures of Airframe Maintenance". You guys
>probably already have your bible the AC 43.13-1A with Change 1 "Acceptable
>methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection and Repair" by
>your bedside or commode; then there is the AC 43-4A, "Corrosion Control
>for Aircraft; and of course AC 43-12A "Preventative Maintenance". So I
>know I am just preaching to the choir - Right?
>
>
>There is value in learning about the definitions, cause and correction for
>Filliform Corrosion, Uniform Etch Corrosion, and Hydrogen Embrittlement.
>
>
>Now to Mani's question (he should be able to get the FM 1-563 pretty
>easy). Proper surface preparation, cleanliness and correct application of
>protective substrates is the key to long term protection of valuable
>flying assets. I have seen quite a few kit built aircraft suffering from
>premature primer separation due to improper surface prep and
>cleanliness. Pictures will follow. Cessna had a big batch of aircraft
>back in the 70's and early 80's getting filiform corrosion more than 10
>years after final painting. Seems acid rain in the form of condensate on
>the aluminum was not properly addressed as they left the aircraft in the
>elements overnight before final paint scheduled for the next day
>shift. On a separate note, use of the correct preparation technique, then
>the correct primer, then the correct final coat using the correct
>technique can insure a dynamite gorgeous killer finish job. Cutting a
>corner can accelerate substrate failure.
>
>
>My dad said there were two reasons men wage war. Economic advantage or
>Religious intolerance. He said to never get involved in the later....
>Know when the economics of the former have shifted against you or your
>adversary and have an exit plan. So the following IS NOT MEANT TO DECLARE
>ANOTHER DAMNED PRIMER WAR. As a former warrior I enjoy building and
>working on recreational aircraft.
>
>
>Anodizing has its place... you should know where.
>
>Alodining has its place... you should know how, not fear it and use it
>judiciously.
>
>Correct primer for the correct final coat material is critical to long
>term substrate survivability and cohesive or adhesive success.
>
>Location of long term storage of aircraft has a compelling impact on
>longevity. That leads to the conclusion that storing a prized possession
>in a hangar is better than in the weather; storing it in a heated hangar
>is better than unheated, keeping the moisture content down is better than
>wild swings. Living in Arizona or New Mexico and keeping it in a hangar
>out of the ultraviolet rays is better than the dank recesses of
>Washington, Oregon, San Diego, Galveston, or Martha's Vineyard. If you
>live in AR or NM there is no need to weigh in on this.
>
>
>Now back to Mani.... Plastic protective sheathing was a protection against
>deep scratches into and through the Alclad surface during shipment and
>initial construction. The protective covering is porous and allows
>corrosion to pass when you are located in damp climates. Kit aircraft are
>sometimes built over long periods without final surface prep or final
>cover coat. Alodine is a time consuming passion used by builders who care
>about the longevity of their finished work. Cessna does not Alodine
>unless the aircraft is designated an Amphibian. It costs more cause the
>labor and material is more than doing nothing. Many aircraft outlive
>their intended lives. However, as I posted yesterday Oregon now has 50%
>of the aircraft accidents recorded in Experimental built A/C, the FAA says
>that is a good thing cause Experimentals in Oregon are a larger and
>growing percentage of the flying fleet total GA fleet. Now don't get me
>wrong no accident is a good thing but in the next 10 years we as A & P's
>are about to see a quantum shift in the quality of the Certified Aircraft
>Fleet. These are aircraft that were not maintained by airlines logging
>tens of thousands of hours and going through A, B, C and D checks. These
>GA are non alodined, are left in the weather and aare marginally
>maintained over multiple decades as old tired birds.
>
>
>I commend individuals like Tim for his commitment to Alodine. I am glad
>people like Randy use Acid Etching Primer to protect exposed surfaces. I
>encourage builders to understand the potential risk in damp climates to
>leave that plastic film on too darned long.
>
>
>In closing, learn about "Faying, Fretting and the wicking action of ACF-50
>to treat aircraft that were built before we knew better". But as Brian
>says it best, Just Build It.
>
>
>Welcome to everyone who moved over in the last 24 hours. Thanks Tim!
>
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>John W. Cox A&P 2824967
>
>
David J.
Mittelstadt
email: djmittelstadt@qwest.net
Message 30
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| Subject: | Primer question (be kind) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
So far I've only applied it on the practice kit interior to get my technique
down. No "real" experience on how it holds up, but it's a nice flat gray
color vs. chromate green.
Rob Wright
Practice Kit 80% complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on
using Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not
at all familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and
some RV8 builders in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior
parts.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
HS Skins
40338
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ok, so you think it's structural....but do you think it needs to
be a permanent riveted structural piece, or would it be something
that could be secured by wing-nuts or some other hand fastener,
for removal during loading? Things like foldable bikes and
such may even be hard to put in the back without removing that
bar temporarily.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> The bar is structural in my opinion. It ties both of the longerons
> too each other and supports the baggage door structure. Randy
>
> -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 4:42 AM To: RV10 Subject: RV10-List:
> Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Anh,
>
> In my sundowner I had the extinguisher right between the rear seats.
> Embarassingly, it was not hard-mounted. It had been mounted before,
> but was removed by some A&P at an annual (all of this before I owned
> it), because the install was done without supporting 337 paperwork.
> So I just left it sit there when I was flying without rear seat
> passengers. When I had passengers, I had it in the seat pouch in the
> back of the rear seats.
>
> What I'm wondering (but I don't have a fuse kit yet), is there any
> good looking opportunity to place it on maybe the bottom/back side of
> that cross bar that goes behind the rear seats at the top?
>
> For the initial flight's I'd probably keep it up front somewhere.
>
> Another question I have is this: Is the bar behind the rear seats
> something that is needed for structural cabin integrity in any way?
> If not, I'd like to have mine put in with pins, so that if I have
> something large to fit in the rear, I can pull the bar. Believe it
> or not, I put in my sundowner one day one of those HUGE 2-kid, molded
> plastic, tow-behind/combo walk behind bike strollers for the kids.
> Took the kids to an airshow in it when one was still too young to
> walk. I'd sure like the opportunity to lose that bar behind the
> seats for loading large objects.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> DejaVu wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@mail.ameritel.net>
>>
>> How/where has anyone thought about a location for the fire
>> extinguisher in a -10? Anh #141
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: 7.9mm drill bit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net>
I used a 5/16 bit also. As in Randy's case, I found this to be very tight. I
think you would really be pounding on a 5/16 bolt in a 7.9mm drilled hole.
This might in fact marr and weaken the only bolt holding your gear leg on.
Certainly not recommending deviating from the plans, just FYI. (40016
Finishing/FWF)
Message 33
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
All,
For those of you who have flown in either RV-10, after wiping the RV grin
off your face, did you remember to sit in the back seat and make sure that
adults will fit back there?
Rob Wright
Practice Kit
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Primer question (be kind) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Hi all,
I've had Marhyde and the SW 988 recommended to me as well. One thing
that I was told specifically is that they dry to the touch in a few
minutes, are somewhat cured after a few hours and only reach full cure
after about a week to ten days... were the issues you saw with poor
adhesion and easy scratching after ten days or before?
One thing that I was told by the person that recommended the marhyde was
that he does all of his drilling and dimpling in the part, then cleans
and applies the primer to the part... seems obvious now that I think
about it but it hadn't crossed my mind until he said it ;)
Thanks,
James
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I bought a case of Marhyde early on. I was pretty disappointed overall.
> It doesn't go on as uniformly, seems very "thin", and as pointed out
> by Michael, it wipes right off with MEK. I found that it was
> also EXTREMELY scratchable. In the end, I gave up on MarHyde except for
> some very small parts where I really didn't want to mix anything. I've
> been using AKZO whenever I will need more than 1/4 cup of primer or so,
> and it works fantastically. It's not self-etching, which I would think
> is it's only downside, but its a sealing primer. I'd use Variprime,
> except that one isn't sealing. Also, AKZO is fairly cheap at just over
> $100 for 2 gallons, and it's readily available form Aircraft Spruce.
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
>> I think all off the single part self etching primers are about the
>> same. I've used DuPont's (expensive @ $19 for a 12oz can) and
>> Marhyde (about $11 for a 19oz can) and I really don't see a
>> difference in performance. Neither will compare to the two part
>> primers in adhesion or durability. I don't know about the two parts,
>> but I can tell you that the one parts will wipe right off if you hit
>> them with MEK.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> ________________________________
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of
>> matronix.rv10@4sythe.com Sent: Thu 3/24/2005 8:45 AM To:
>> rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
>>
>> Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or
>> bad) on using Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle
>> cans? I'm not at all familiar with some of the products people have
>> mentioned here and some RV8 builders in my EAA group are using the
>> 988 cans for all interior parts.
>>
>> Thoughts?
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Kent Forsythe HS Skins 40338
>>
>>
>>
>> ====================================
>> ====================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 35
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I flew in it, but didn't sit in the back of the 2 production planes.
I did, however, sit in the mockup at OSH and I can guarantee that
even at 6'2" almost, it's got way more room than I need. I think
that OSH seating demo was directly based on the actual kit fuse,
so it should be the same. Anyone actuall flown in the back?
Hey, Rick Sked, didn't you say you flew in the back seat, or was
that someone else?
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
>
> All,
>
> For those of you who have flown in either RV-10, after wiping the RV grin
> off your face, did you remember to sit in the back seat and make sure that
> adults will fit back there?
>
> Rob Wright
> Practice Kit
>
Message 36
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Tim,
My significant other flew in the back seat. She said it was very comfortable. She
is 5'-11" tall and had no trouble getting in or out or having enough room to
move around. I think she was sizing it up for a restroom though, anyone else
ever have to land out there for a potty break? AND HAVE THE PASSENGER LOOK AT
THE FACILITY DIRECTORY TO PICK OUT A SUITABLE AIRPORT FACILITY FOR THAT BREAK???
Rick Sked
40185
Wings
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | wingtip rib installation |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
as possible.
--- MIME Errors ---
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Well I wouldn't put my wife in it without it riveted, but that's me.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ok, so you think it's structural....but do you think it needs to
be a permanent riveted structural piece, or would it be something
that could be secured by wing-nuts or some other hand fastener,
for removal during loading? Things like foldable bikes and
such may even be hard to put in the back without removing that
bar temporarily.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> The bar is structural in my opinion. It ties both of the longerons
> too each other and supports the baggage door structure. Randy
>
> -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 4:42 AM To: RV10 Subject: RV10-List:
> Re: RV-List: Fire Extinguisher Location in -10
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Anh,
>
> In my sundowner I had the extinguisher right between the rear seats.
> Embarassingly, it was not hard-mounted. It had been mounted before,
> but was removed by some A&P at an annual (all of this before I owned
> it), because the install was done without supporting 337 paperwork.
> So I just left it sit there when I was flying without rear seat
> passengers. When I had passengers, I had it in the seat pouch in the
> back of the rear seats.
>
> What I'm wondering (but I don't have a fuse kit yet), is there any
> good looking opportunity to place it on maybe the bottom/back side of
> that cross bar that goes behind the rear seats at the top?
>
> For the initial flight's I'd probably keep it up front somewhere.
>
> Another question I have is this: Is the bar behind the rear seats
> something that is needed for structural cabin integrity in any way?
> If not, I'd like to have mine put in with pins, so that if I have
> something large to fit in the rear, I can pull the bar. Believe it
> or not, I put in my sundowner one day one of those HUGE 2-kid, molded
> plastic, tow-behind/combo walk behind bike strollers for the kids.
> Took the kids to an airshow in it when one was still too young to
> walk. I'd sure like the opportunity to lose that bar behind the
> seats for loading large objects.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> DejaVu wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@mail.ameritel.net>
>>
>> How/where has anyone thought about a location for the fire
>> extinguisher in a -10? Anh #141
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 39
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I sat in the back at OSH and there was plenty of room - I'm 6'1".
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Subject: RV10-List: Seating
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
All,
For those of you who have flown in either RV-10, after wiping the RV grin
off your face, did you remember to sit in the back seat and make sure that
adults will fit back there?
Rob Wright
Practice Kit
Message 40
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|
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
as possible.
--- MIME Errors ---
Message 41
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I had the same experience coming back from Reno. I had to stop at Adin. It looked
like a throw back airstrip from the 40's. Worst yet I was @ 10,500ft in a
172 and had to come down to 3500 to the airport elevation. That takes for ever.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seating
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Tim,
My significant other flew in the back seat. She said it was very comfortable. She
is 5'-11" tall and had no trouble getting in or out or having enough room to
move around. I think she was sizing it up for a restroom though, anyone else
ever have to land out there for a potty break? AND HAVE THE PASSENGER LOOK AT
THE FACILITY DIRECTORY TO PICK OUT A SUITABLE AIRPORT FACILITY FOR THAT BREAK???
Rick Sked
40185
Wings
Message 42
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Anyone installing a "relief tube" in their -10? : )
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seating
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Tim,
My significant other flew in the back seat. She said it was very comfortable. She
is 5'-11" tall and had no trouble getting in or out or having enough room to
move around. I think she was sizing it up for a restroom though, anyone else
ever have to land out there for a potty break? AND HAVE THE PASSENGER LOOK AT
THE FACILITY DIRECTORY TO PICK OUT A SUITABLE AIRPORT FACILITY FOR THAT BREAK???
Rick Sked
40185
Wings
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Primer question (be kind) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Hi Yall,
I'll post my corrosion proofing methods...
Non-alcad: clean with redpad and Alumaprep, alodine and prime. I use what's handy
SW 988, AKZO for big stuff and I have found that Tempo Zinc Chromate works
OK and is more scratch resistant that the 988 IF you prepare the surface. On the
wing skins I only primed mating surfaces, kept the blue plastic on until it
was all together then removed.
Alcad:
I don't Alodine Alcad....My opinion is it's not very effective on Alcad. Alcad
is effective in it's own right and I do clean, scuff and prime.
Bottom line for me is: Use alodine on non alcad, prep anything your going to prime
with Alumaprep and a Scothbrite scrubbing pad. The Alumaprep really makes
it easy to prep...easier than if you use the pad dry.
I like the Zinc Chromate primer, makes your RV-10 have that P-51 interior look
although I won't use it in the cabin. Thanks to Zinc Chromate I have the only
yard in the neighborhood with three tailed Chipmunks, WEAR A MASK WITH ALL PRIMERS.
Also I like the fact that maybe, just maybe the fumes from my Zinc Chromate
are making their way into to California. See California doesn't like Zinc
Chromate because it causes cancer but only in California, I'm safe in Nevada nestled
right up to were they test them nuclear bombs. The key is good prep, the
rattlecans work well and are scratch resistant but you need to clean the surface
good and remove all the gloss. For that hard as nails and totally bullet
proof primer, use AKZO, good enough for the USAF & NASA good enough for the RV.
I just HATE mixing it up...actually just lazy. If mixed properly and sprayed
correctly, it has a slight sheen and is very chemical resistant. Trust me, MEK
won't remove the cured product. Oh yeah, one last thing, it sprays as is, no
thinning required, at least for my experience.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 44
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|
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
as possible.
--- MIME Errors ---
Message 45
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
lol....Well the coming down part is not so bad but the next hour and half getting
back up there sure is!!!
Talk about throw backs....several years ago I was at a little airport at the Nevada/Utah
border called Wendover, it's where the Col. Tibbets and the B-29 crews
practiced prior to heading to the Pacific. Lot of old history there, including
a pit where the "bomb" was put so the B-29 could roll over the pit and hoist
it into the bay, it was too big around to load conventionally.
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: 7.9mm drill bit |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
Fastenal has 7.9 mm drill bits but they come in packs of 5.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0312921
Phil White wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
>
>
>Has anyone purchased the 7.9mm (.311 inch) drill bit that the plans call
>for to drill the main gear leg sockets? Need a source for an affordable
>bit, or perhaps we might share a bit among several builders.
> I learned that Bisco FL carries the metric bit at $2.45 plus at least
>$7 shipping. Van's tech support told me that they call for this bit
>that is 1.5 thousanths undersize because 5/16" bolts run undersize, and
>they want a snug fit for this only bolt that holds our gear leg on!
>
> Any thoughts?
>
>Phil #40220 (emp & wings done, fuse about 50%) I switched too!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Re: Primer question (be kind) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I do have to admit that in my experience I wasn't waiting a week to
ten days. It was sooner, like 1 to 2 days max. In my building,
I generally prime one day and assemble the next. If the guy told
you right, then I'm definitely working faster than that.
I have on occasion, dimpled after priming. The AKZO seems to hold
up pretty well to that, but you're definitely right....it would
be proper to prime after dimpling.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
James Ochs wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I've had Marhyde and the SW 988 recommended to me as well. One thing
> that I was told specifically is that they dry to the touch in a few
> minutes, are somewhat cured after a few hours and only reach full cure
> after about a week to ten days... were the issues you saw with poor
> adhesion and easy scratching after ten days or before?
>
> One thing that I was told by the person that recommended the marhyde was
> that he does all of his drilling and dimpling in the part, then cleans
> and applies the primer to the part... seems obvious now that I think
> about it but it hadn't crossed my mind until he said it ;)
> Thanks,
> James
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> I bought a case of Marhyde early on. I was pretty disappointed overall.
>> It doesn't go on as uniformly, seems very "thin", and as pointed out
>> by Michael, it wipes right off with MEK. I found that it was
>> also EXTREMELY scratchable. In the end, I gave up on MarHyde except for
>> some very small parts where I really didn't want to mix anything. I've
>> been using AKZO whenever I will need more than 1/4 cup of primer or so,
>> and it works fantastically. It's not self-etching, which I would think
>> is it's only downside, but its a sealing primer. I'd use Variprime,
>> except that one isn't sealing. Also, AKZO is fairly cheap at just over
>> $100 for 2 gallons, and it's readily available form Aircraft Spruce.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> --
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>>
>>> I think all off the single part self etching primers are about the
>>> same. I've used DuPont's (expensive @ $19 for a 12oz can) and
>>> Marhyde (about $11 for a 19oz can) and I really don't see a
>>> difference in performance. Neither will compare to the two part
>>> primers in adhesion or durability. I don't know about the two parts,
>>> but I can tell you that the one parts will wipe right off if you hit
>>> them with MEK.
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
>>> ________________________________
>>>
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of
>>> matronix.rv10@4sythe.com Sent: Thu 3/24/2005 8:45 AM To:
>>> rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
>>>
>>> Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or
>>> bad) on using Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle
>>> cans? I'm not at all familiar with some of the products people have
>>> mentioned here and some RV8 builders in my EAA group are using the
>>> 988 cans for all interior parts.
>>>
>>> Thoughts?
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>>
>>> Kent Forsythe HS Skins 40338
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ====================================
>>> ====================================
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 48
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Isn't this where the "moderator" is supposed to jump in and kick your
butt for making non-10 comments? .... oh wait...that was the other list. ;)
Tim
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> lol....Well the coming down part is not so bad but the next hour and
> half getting back up there sure is!!! Talk about throw
> backs....several years ago I was at a little airport at the
> Nevada/Utah border called Wendover, it's where the Col. Tibbets and
> the B-29 crews practiced prior to heading to the Pacific. Lot of old
> history there, including a pit where the "bomb" was put so the B-29
> could roll over the pit and hoist it into the bay, it was too big
> around to load conventionally.
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: (No Subject) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: lloyddr@wernerco.com
Made the switch?
I changed from a 7a to the 10, once my wife and I sat in it at Oshkosh, what did
you switch?
--- Original Message ---
From: "Gary Specketer" <gspecketer@hotmail.com>
Subject: (No Subject)
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Gary Specketer"
I made the switch
Gary Specketer
Gary <http://graphics.hotmail.com/emsmile.gif>
_____
Message 50
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I was just going to ask how folks like this forum!
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seating
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Isn't this where the "moderator" is supposed to jump in and kick your
butt for making non-10 comments? .... oh wait...that was the other list. ;)
Tim
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Rick wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> lol....Well the coming down part is not so bad but the next hour and
> half getting back up there sure is!!! Talk about throw
> backs....several years ago I was at a little airport at the
> Nevada/Utah border called Wendover, it's where the Col. Tibbets and
> the B-29 crews practiced prior to heading to the Pacific. Lot of old
> history there, including a pit where the "bomb" was put so the B-29
> could roll over the pit and hoist it into the bay, it was too big
> around to load conventionally.
>
Message 51
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I was just going to ask how folks like this forum!
>
> Bob
Love it! :-)
do not archive
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
Message 52
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You could try it. I used a 3/8 and put it in my portable drill. I ran the speed
real slow. I would guess that now that it is painted I may have to remove the
paint to get the bolt in. It wasn't sloppy by any means. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wing incidence
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter"
Randy -- would you recommend using a 3/8" undersize reamer (.3740) versus a 3/8"
reamer (.3750) to drill the hole to keep the tolerance real tight? Thanks
Mark
>From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wing incidence
>Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 08:18:06 -0800
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
>Yes, right from the plans and Ken Krugers mouth, don't mess with the angel of
incidence. I drove the shank end of a 1/8" drill bit into the hole with wing
on, this was more exact than just a cleco as the plans said. Clamped the rear
spar parts together. I made the hole larger in about 6 steps until I could start
my 3/8" reamer and then dropped the bolt in. I thinks the photos of how I
did it are on Tim's site. Randy
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 7:35 PM
>To: RV10
>Subject: RV10-List: Wing incidence
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>I was watching a thread on the regular generic RV Matronics forum
>about adjusting the wing incidence angle, I think after assembly
>and test flight.
>
>I'm just wondering...they were referring to RV-6 series planes, but
>what about our -10's. Maybe someone who's way ahead, like Randy,
>could answer this: Does that small alignment hole in the rear
>wing spar doubler actually take care of the whole wing incidence
>issue for you, since we have pre-punched, CAD designed airframes?
>It would seem we'd have less variability and more accuracy, and
>therefore have less to worry about.
>
>How did yours go Randy?...or anyone else?
>
>Tim
>
>
>--
>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>Wing Kit - Almost Complete
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 53
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<42432E6B.6080407@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
YEP>>> but that's why it's getting lonely over there. KABONG
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Isn't this where the "moderator" is supposed to jump in and kick your
> butt for making non-10 comments? .... oh wait...that was the other list.
> ;)
>
> Tim
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | Heated Pitot Tube Mount |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)" <nikolaos.napoli@ngc.com>
I am looking for words of wisdom on where to mount the heated pitot tube. I am
going with the Gretz mount.
Niko
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | Back to MT Props |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)" <nikolaos.napoli@ngc.com>
I am wondering if any builder has an actual weight for the mt propeller. I know
this issue came up before and there were some questions as to exactly what the
weight is and how much lighter it is compared to a metal prop.
I also remember some concerns regarding repair of the prop if it is damaged. Anything
new on this front?
Niko
Message 56
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|
| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Mount |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
The bay immediately outboard of the outboard access panel worked well for me.
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Mount
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)" <nikolaos.napoli@ngc.com>
I am looking for words of wisdom on where to mount the heated pitot tube. I am
going with the Gretz mount.
Niko
Message 57
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|
I'm on the finishing kit and I have my antennas bought. The only wingtip
antenna I went with was the NAV antenna. I plan on using GPS for
everything. I will have one GPS in the EFIS (Grand Rapids), a 430, and
a handheld.
You can see some of my antenna installations here.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t60
Scott Schmidt
www.freedomflyers.com <http://www.freedomflyers.com/>
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
I am working on getting my antennas bought so I can get started on
running my wires and wiring up my panel. I need two COMMS, a
VOR/GS/LOC, a Transponder, and I already have the rest of them. I am
trying to decide on the low-drag wing-tip versions and so on. Any
suggestions? What are ya'll using?
How many people are working on the Finishing kit? We are about to
start. It would be nice to be flying by Oshkosh, but we'll see if our
Engine and Prop get here on time.
Jesse Saint (RV-10 Kit 241)
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 58
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
I called Van's on this too and they said to just use a 5/16". You have
to make sure that the hole in the gear leg is perfectly aligned with the
predrilled hole in the mount. Really no problem.
One thing though that I'm not too impressed with is the weight of those
gear legs. WOW!!! I hope someone will offer a titanium version soon.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 7.9mm drill bit
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
It is just the tube Tim. The landing gear leg is solid and no one can
drill it. VERY HARD. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 7.9mm drill bit
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Is this drilling through solid, or tubular material? It would be
nice to know because if it was solid, I'd probably buy 2 bits in
case of having a bit break. If other people find a good source
on these, post it. I still have a good lead time to need it, but
I would like to buy it well in advance. Hey, Mike from Cleaveland...
any chance you could obtain and source these for us 10 builders??
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Chris , Susie McGough wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie McGough"
> <VHMUM@bigpond.com>
>
> Are you telling us you have to drill the gear leg Holes ??
> We had to do this on the 6 Tail ...pain in the but.
>
> Chris
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 5:30 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: 7.9mm drill bit
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone purchased the 7.9mm (.311 inch) drill bit that the plans
>> call for to drill the main gear leg sockets? Need a source for an
>> affordable bit, or perhaps we might share a bit among several
builders.
>> I learned that Bisco FL carries the metric bit at $2.45 plus at
>> least $7 shipping. Van's tech support told me that they call for
this
>> bit that is 1.5 thousanths undersize because 5/16" bolts run
>> undersize, and they want a snug fit for this only bolt that holds our
>> gear leg on!
>>
>> Any thoughts?
>>
>> Phil #40220 (emp & wings done, fuse about 50%) I switched too!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 59
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
Trust me, there is no problem with that. I am 6'4" and I have long
legs. With the seat where I need it there is tons of room. I will try
to take some pictures tonight and post them for you.
In fact, the back seats are so nice and so far away from your face I am
having LCD screen put in the back of the seats so the passengers can
watch either a DVD or possible different views from cameras on the
plane.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Subject: RV10-List: Seating
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright"
<armywrights@adelphia.net>
All,
For those of you who have flown in either RV-10, after wiping the RV
grin
off your face, did you remember to sit in the back seat and make sure
that
adults will fit back there?
Rob Wright
Practice Kit
Message 60
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| Subject: | Back to MT Props |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
The numbers that I received from Lessdrag.com were 47.7lbs. for the MT
including the spinner and 65lbs for the Hartzell.
Scott Schmidt
USSynthetic Product Manager
1260 South 1600 West
Orem UT 84058
Phone: 801-235-9001
Fax: 801-235-9141
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Napoli,
Nikolaos (Contr)
Subject: RV10-List: Back to MT Props
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)"
<nikolaos.napoli@ngc.com>
I am wondering if any builder has an actual weight for the mt propeller.
I know this issue came up before and there were some questions as to
exactly what the weight is and how much lighter it is compared to a
metal prop.
I also remember some concerns regarding repair of the prop if it is
damaged. Anything new on this front?
Niko
Message 61
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|
| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Mount |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey Niko,
You can see where I mounted mine at:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20050206/index.html
There are a couple good photos there. I didn't want to mount it in the
per-plans location, because it can interfere with both the control tube
inside, and it would be very near the tie-down ring outside. I was
going to move it just outboard of the access hole on the other side
of the next rib out, but that too would put it very close to the rope
that goes on the tie-down. To keep it far away from all that stuff,
what I did was mount it on the 2nd rib from the outer tip. You could
probably use the supplied tubing, and splice in some plastic tube,
but I opted to just buy another length...I think I bought 14' for just
a few bucks from Van's. I haven't hooked up the tube yet, as I'm
still waiting on Gretz to get his done, but the mount (a Gretz mount)
went really well. You can see the mount and some info on that page
as well. You do need a piece of angle that isn't supplied in the
kit. You can see where I mounted it.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)"
> <nikolaos.napoli@ngc.com>
>
> I am looking for words of wisdom on where to mount the heated pitot
> tube. I am going with the Gretz mount.
>
> Niko
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 62
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|
| Subject: | Heated Pitot Tube Mount |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
I used the same system. I put the heated pitot tube just on the other
side (outside) from where Van's recommends it. I tried to keep it as
far away as I could from the tie down without going out any further and
not getting closer to the prop.
Anyway, here are a couple of shots of that. If you need more, let me
know.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14
Scott Schmidt
www.freedomflyers.com
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Napoli,
Nikolaos (Contr)
Subject: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Mount
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)"
<nikolaos.napoli@ngc.com>
I am looking for words of wisdom on where to mount the heated pitot
tube. I am going with the Gretz mount.
Niko
Message 63
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|
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=6pLWRTfpx4E3xl51+79EzLxS0EtLeuPn6O2y1HpE0olbVcNduIECXtxjpfnWvWV0T3IljXwo652xKhKz1FnDGxa0yiZs3fIA3qGlwMLahjpwn57T9mPkHhDOSAAnrklmRhAnewtFvShJlCPIQU4brdb4kCEYXIGpK6pG1EsRgEQ=
;
--> RV10-List message posted by: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
As "Buzz" at Cleavland Tools once told me: "If
Van tells you something you can believe it" I
went out to the Vans plant also before I bought
and after trying on the front seat I moved to the
back. I'm almost 6' and 185 lbs. and had PLENTY
of room.
Robert V.
--- Scott Schmidt <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott
> Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>
> Trust me, there is no problem with that. I am
> 6'4" and I have long
> legs. With the seat where I need it there is
> tons of room. I will try
> to take some pictures tonight and post them for
> you.
> In fact, the back seats are so nice and so far
> away from your face I am
> having LCD screen put in the back of the seats
> so the passengers can
> watch either a DVD or possible different views
> from cameras on the
> plane.
>
> Scott Schmidt
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]
> On Behalf Of Robert G.
> Wright
> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 11:21 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Seating
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G.
> Wright"
> <armywrights@adelphia.net>
>
> All,
>
> For those of you who have flown in either
> RV-10, after wiping the RV
> grin
> off your face, did you remember to sit in the
> back seat and make sure
> that
> adults will fit back there?
>
> Rob Wright
> Practice Kit
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 64
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|
| Subject: | Primer question (be kind) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jack H Sparling, Jr." <jhs_61@yahoo.com>
I have been using the Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle
cans and I have found that it dries fast will give a nice mat finish when
properly applied and is extremely tough. Be sure to scuff the surface of
anything you prime and clean them with either soap and water or solvent in
order to remove all oils (even the oils from your skin) and you should have
no issues with adhesion. I have been using the green 3M pads for almost all
of the surfaces and a small fine stainless steel wire brush for areas I
can't get into with the pad.
Jack Sparling
Working on the tail cone.
40276
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright"
<armywrights@adelphia.net>
So far I've only applied it on the practice kit interior to get my technique
down. No "real" experience on how it holds up, but it's a nice flat gray
color vs. chromate green.
Rob Wright
Practice Kit 80% complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on
using Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not
at all familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and
some RV8 builders in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior
parts.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
HS Skins
40338
Message 65
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| Subject: | Primer question (be kind) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
I think it works great. When I lived in Houston all the guys at Hooks
airport were building their RV's with it. And I thought if it was good
enough for Houston, it will be good enough for Salt Lake City.
I have used the 988 for everything. It is a self-etching primer without
the mess. It will cost you a little more in the long run but the time
and frustration you save will more than make up for the cost. You can
also use a sharpie (I like the blue color) to mark you parts, use white
gas to clean up the parts which won't remove the sharpie and you will
still be able to see your writing through the priming when you are done.
Since I have finished all the major parts I have talked to other
painters and they all highly recommend the 988 and really like it. But
there may be better stuff out there.
In my opinion though, I don't see any other option. It dries in 10
minutes too.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad)
on using Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans?
I'm not at all familiar with some of the products people have mentioned
here and some RV8 builders in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for
all interior parts.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
HS Skins
40338
Message 66
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| Subject: | Ideal Stripmaster Choices |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jack H Sparling, Jr." <jhs_61@yahoo.com>
I purchased a Stipall by Teledyne-Kinetics, they are thermal wire strippers
and cut right through the Tefzel coating with no possibility of nicking the
wire. I used them to wire the entire panel of my 1952 C-35 Bonanza and
would not use anything else. You can get a nice used one on e-bay for about
$50.00.
Jack Sparling
40276
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Ideal Stripmaster Choices
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Hey all...
I am approaching the need to get a wire stripper and was wondering if
most of you have used the $150 Custom Stripmaster with the E1000 dies or
if you are getting by with the less expensive knife type dies?
Also was told on the Aerolectric list that you can get the cheaper
handle and buy the E1000 dies. Can someone verify for me that the E1000
dies will fit on the cheaper handles?
Thanks...
-Sean #40303
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 67
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| Subject: | Re: Ideal Stripmaster Choices |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Here's a hint for those that are wiring their own panel. Y'all know
just how slippery that mil-spec wire jacket is ..... try to grab it and
strip it off with your fingers .... teeth .... anyway you want to try
..... and all you get is some pain for your troubles. Sorry. got
carried away ..... now for the hint: Get a couple of rubber boots that
go over std. size alligator clips. Poke the wire in the small end, and
grab with your fingers (after cutting the jacket with a suitable cable
stripper .... you have one, don't you???) and pull ..... the sheath will
come off really easy.
Linn
Jack H Sparling, Jr. wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jack H Sparling, Jr." <jhs_61@yahoo.com>
>
>I purchased a Stipall by Teledyne-Kinetics, they are thermal wire strippers
>and cut right through the Tefzel coating with no possibility of nicking the
>wire. I used them to wire the entire panel of my 1952 C-35 Bonanza and
>would not use anything else. You can get a nice used one on e-bay for about
>$50.00.
>
>Jack Sparling
>40276
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
>Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 12:24 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Ideal Stripmaster Choices
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
>Hey all...
>
>I am approaching the need to get a wire stripper and was wondering if
>most of you have used the $150 Custom Stripmaster with the E1000 dies or
>if you are getting by with the less expensive knife type dies?
>
>Also was told on the Aerolectric list that you can get the cheaper
>handle and buy the E1000 dies. Can someone verify for me that the E1000
>dies will fit on the cheaper handles?
>
>Thanks...
>
>-Sean #40303
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Message 68
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| Subject: | Re: wingtip rib installation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Tim,
I think the diagram is correct, but I have no proof. My guess is that Vans wants
the inside edge of the fiberglass wingtip to be flush with no edges that could
possibly hang on the aileron causing loss of control. By installing the wingtip
rib in the manner shown, you have a smooth surface. Should the aileron
rub for any reason, it would not catch and lock into place.
This is my "Guess"
I went back and checked the bunch of photos I took at Oskosh last year of the prototype
and I had nothing that showed the tip.
Best guess is to call Vans, but they are usually pretty good.
Later, Jim C
#40192
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Agreed, (I believe you're looking at the wing structure as a whole) the
wing skin is what's pictured, and the tip fits inside the wing skin.
But, David and I are referring to part number W-1016-L in the
picture....the small trailing-edge rib that gets riveted inside the
wing-tip itself. I hope I didn't confuse anyone. Does this make
more sense Jim, or is it ME that's confused on this?
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 69
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| Subject: | Re: Rattle Can Primer Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Please don't start any primer wars!
I am using a rattle can primer from CarQuest Automotive paint store It's from SEM,
a self etching primer available in green, black or gray.
I use it because I am building in my basement and I don't have the means to mix
and spray a two part primer. But I have found that if I clean the parts and
buff the shine off with a scotchbright pad, the stuff really adhers well. Yes
it can be removed with MEK, but it does not scratch easily. I have dimpled parts
after priming and the primer stays put.
It dries quickly. Within 20 minutes I can take it back inside with no fear of
being repremanded by the rest of the family for smelling up the house (A good
thing!)
It's not inexpensive, A large 15.5 Oz / 440 Gram can lists for $15.87 but they
cut me a break and sell it for $11.32.
So for me, this is a good solution to priming the airplane.
Take this for what it's worth.
Jim Combs
#40192
Message 70
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Phil, reading a little closer you should see they call for a .311 fluted
straight reamer not a drill bit. At least on the 7a that was the thing.
Drill bits leave a triangular hole. MSC has the .311 reamer for about $15
or any tool and supply place will have a .3125 5/16 which Vans approves for
the process as well. Suggest you use a 5/16 close tolerance bolt and you
get a perfect fit. Have EM from Vans to that effect if you would like to
see it.
Use a little "liquid" Boelube and it goes through like butter. Use electric
drill on slow in case it binds. Much agonizing over something that took
about 5 minutes to do all three holes. BTW, Boelube makes screws go into
platenuts like nothing. No reaming required. About 5.95 from Avery.
Bill S
7a Ark.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil White
Subject: RV10-List: 7.9mm drill bit
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
Has anyone purchased the 7.9mm (.311 inch) drill bit that the plans call
for to drill the main gear leg sockets? Need a source for an affordable
bit, or perhaps we might share a bit among several builders.
I learned that Bisco FL carries the metric bit at $2.45 plus at least
$7 shipping. Van's tech support told me that they call for this bit
that is 1.5 thousanths undersize because 5/16" bolts run undersize, and
they want a snug fit for this only bolt that holds our gear leg on!
Any thoughts?
Phil #40220 (emp & wings done, fuse about 50%) I switched too!
Message 71
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Here are some pictures of the room in the back seat.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?p176#post176
-Scott Schmidt
Message 72
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| Subject: | Primer question (be kind) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Jack!
Glad to see you are finally building!
Go Man GO!
Finishing the wings
Jim Combs
#40192
Do not Archive!
Message 73
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Jeez, Scott, do you just have bags of money lying around?!?!
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seating
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
Trust me, there is no problem with that. I am 6'4" and I have long
legs. With the seat where I need it there is tons of room. I will try
to take some pictures tonight and post them for you.
In fact, the back seats are so nice and so far away from your face I am
having LCD screen put in the back of the seats so the passengers can
watch either a DVD or possible different views from cameras on the
plane.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Subject: RV10-List: Seating
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright"
<armywrights@adelphia.net>
All,
For those of you who have flown in either RV-10, after wiping the RV
grin
off your face, did you remember to sit in the back seat and make sure
that
adults will fit back there?
Rob Wright
Practice Kit
Message 74
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Sheldon Olesen <saolesen@sirentel.net>
I have been thinking about antenna placement and I think we have a big
advantage over our smaller RV brothers. I think the large fiberglass
cabin cover would be ideal for placement of some homemade antennas.
The nav antenna would be a good candidate for this position since they
horizontally polarized. The antenna consists of two 1/2" strips of
copper foil attached to the usual coax with 3 ferrite baluns on the
coax near the foil. I think $5 would build it. I used these on my
Long-EZ and they worked well. With a proper antenna splitter you can
get glideslope as well. Marker beacons and com are also possible but
I bought a commercial com antenna because I don't want anything
radiating energy so close to my head. Getting the com antenna vertical
enough is also a problem.
I am not a radio guy so do any of electronics guys see a problem with
this?
Sheldon Olesen
40080
Message 75
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I wish. I'm still looking for my backpack full of cash but I haven't found it
yet.
-Scott
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seating
Jeez, Scott, do you just have bags of money lying around?!?!
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seating
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
Trust me, there is no problem with that. I am 6'4" and I have long
legs. With the seat where I need it there is tons of room. I will try
to take some pictures tonight and post them for you.
In fact, the back seats are so nice and so far away from your face I am
having LCD screen put in the back of the seats so the passengers can
watch either a DVD or possible different views from cameras on the
plane.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Subject: RV10-List: Seating
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright"
<armywrights@adelphia.net>
All,
For those of you who have flown in either RV-10, after wiping the RV
grin
off your face, did you remember to sit in the back seat and make sure
that
adults will fit back there?
Rob Wright
Practice Kit
Message 76
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "James Ochs" <jochs@froody.org>
Hrm... what else are you supposed to use for ballast? ;)
Do not archive
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seating
Jeez, Scott, do you just have bags of money lying around?!?!
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seating
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
Trust me, there is no problem with that. I am 6'4" and I have long
legs. With the seat where I need it there is tons of room. I will try
to take some pictures tonight and post them for you.
In fact, the back seats are so nice and so far away from your face I am
having LCD screen put in the back of the seats so the passengers can
watch either a DVD or possible different views from cameras on the
plane.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Subject: RV10-List: Seating
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright"
<armywrights@adelphia.net>
All,
For those of you who have flown in either RV-10, after wiping the RV
grin
off your face, did you remember to sit in the back seat and make sure
that
adults will fit back there?
Rob Wright
Practice Kit
====================================
====================================
Message 77
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I am going to redesign the panel like the one shown. I just added an update to
the link below. (Scroll to the bottom)
I talked with Stein last night and I'm going to change a couple of things now after
talking to him. Instead of a dual AHRS system I am going to go with a single
AHRS but then add an altimeter, airspeed, and sometime around Oshkosh, TruTrak
is going to offer there new aritificial horizon that they just launched
linked to the DigitrakII. According to Stein, you will be able to upgrade your
Digitrak II to the new system and they will give you credit for your current
system. Stein thought it would be about a $300 upgrade. I think that will be
a great system and will offer better redundancy than having two AHRS. The two
AHRS was looking like a wiring nightmare. Two computers, two magnatometers,
lots more wires, ect.....
I do like Randy's panel too but I think I will be able to get four sections with
my design.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?p177#post177
-Scott Schmidt
RV-10 N105XP
________________________________
From: Richard Sipp [mailto:rsipp@earthlink.net]
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Back seat room
Scott,
Thanks for all the recent pictures, they are a big help.
It looks like you extended the vertical dimension on your instrument panel.
Do you have any more shots of the panel?
It looks from what I can see in the "seat" series of pictures to be very
close to what I have in mind. Do you have enough leg room under the panel?
Thanks
Dick Sipp
RV 4 N250DS
RV 10 40065
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Back seat room
Here are some pictures of the room in the back seat.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?p176#post176
-Scott Schmidt
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