Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:34 AM - Re: Rear passenger vent alternatives? (Mani Ravee)
2. 04:41 AM - Re: Pneumatic cleco fastener (Mani Ravee)
3. 05:12 AM - Re: Pneumatic cleco fastener (Barry Chapman)
4. 06:15 AM - Deburring aileron counter weights (Jay Brinkmeyer)
5. 07:19 AM - Re: tools ()
6. 08:29 AM - Cogsdill (David & Miriam Talley)
7. 08:50 AM - Re: tools (David McNeill)
8. 08:51 AM - Re: Cogsdill (Bill McCoy)
9. 08:52 AM - Re: tools (David McNeill)
10. 09:00 AM - Re: Cogsdill (David McNeill)
11. 09:32 AM - Re: Cogsdill (Rick)
12. 09:38 AM - Re: tools (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
13. 09:56 AM - Re: tools (Darton Steve)
14. 10:21 AM - Re: tools (David McNeill)
15. 10:59 AM - Gluing in the windows (Scott Schmidt)
16. 11:20 AM - Cogsdill (Jerry Grimmonpre)
17. 12:04 PM - Cogsdill Burraway tool (matronix.rv10@4sythe.com)
18. 12:36 PM - Builder #40328 (John Jessen)
19. 01:16 PM - Re: tools ()
20. 01:38 PM - Smiley's (Jim Combs)
21. 01:43 PM - Re: Deburring aileron counter weights (Jim Combs)
22. 01:50 PM - Re: tools (matronix.rv10@4sythe.com)
23. 01:57 PM - Test message - Do Not Archive (matronix.rv10@4sythe.com)
24. 02:41 PM - Re: tools (Jim Combs)
25. 02:57 PM - Re: Smiley's (N213RV@aol.com)
26. 02:58 PM - Re: Smiley's (Brian Denk)
27. 03:56 PM - Windshield (Jesse Saint)
28. 04:28 PM - Door Locks (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
29. 04:45 PM - Re: Windshield (Brian Denk)
30. 04:52 PM - Re: Door Locks (Brian Denk)
31. 04:54 PM - QB fuselage,Finish and FF kits unloading (David McNeill)
32. 04:57 PM - Re: Door Locks (Sean Stephens)
33. 05:05 PM - Re: Door Locks (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
34. 05:14 PM - Tools (John Hasbrouck)
35. 05:23 PM - Re: tools ()
36. 06:16 PM - Re: Door Locks (John W. Cox)
37. 06:49 PM - tools (cogsdill) (Bill and Tami Britton)
38. 07:53 PM - Re: Smiley's (DejaVu)
39. 08:57 PM - riveting tip (David McNeill)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Rear passenger vent alternatives? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
I have been thinking about it too although I am far FAR away from there yet.
1. The eye ball outlets for the rear should also be heated cabin air. How
will you heat it if you get it from a >pressure area in the rear? Have not
yet examined it carefully how it is done in the Cherokee 6, my brother in
law flies one. Should not be too hard to adapt to the _10.
2. Anyone putting in a set of smaller seat belt set in the middle of the
rear seat for a "small" pass? I sometimes give rides to children - my lil
one's friends and it would be nice to have 3 in the back. Weight is not the
issue.
Mani Ravee
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
McGough
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent alternatives?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie McGough"
<VHMUM@bigpond.com>
Great idea but any ideas for a baby? Has anyone seen anything for toddlers?
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent alternatives?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
>
> Just remember that everything you add increases
> empty weight. I will have a four place intercom
> and everyone will be wearing ANL headsets.
> Robert
> --- DejaVu <wvu@mail.ameritel.net> wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu"
>> <wvu@mail.ameritel.net>
>>
>> I thought about enclosing the inside of these
>> vents just for looks but
>> haven't done anything about it yet. The noise
>> created by the vents is
>> pro'ly no competition with the engine noise
>> Anh
>> #141.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Phil White" <philwhite9@aol.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 12:04 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent
>> alternatives?
>>
>>
>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Phil White"
>> <philwhite9@aol.com>
>> >
>> > Is anyone far enough along in fuselage
>> building that you are considering
>> > the vents that Van's provides for the rear
>> seats? I look at the
>> > design, and imagine that they would be very
>> noisy when open, and likely
>> > leak when closed (or at least allow more wind
>> noise). I'm a quiet freak!
>> > Wondering if it is worthwhile
>> fabricating a ceiling tunnel to bring
>> > air from the tailcone to eyeball outlets
>> above. Don't know if there is
>> > a high pressure area behind the baggage panel
>> anywhere that one could
>> > use for air inlet . A ceiling tunnel could
>> also allow for reading lites
>> > to be mounted above.
>> > Am I just making too much work for
>> myself considering these
>> > options? Don't need more work, but want this
>> to be the best traveling
>> > plane I can build.
>> >
>> > Any suggestions or experience with the
>> stock vent in a Van's tandem
>> > plane?
>> >
>> > Phil White #40220 (fuse sides being riveted
>> now) in Willowbrook, IL
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ---
>> mail.ameritel.net]
>> >
>> >
>>
>> ---
>> mail.ameritel.net]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> to browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> Chat, FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Pneumatic cleco fastener |
Son, we all bought it from the yard at 24$. Call them up and talk to them.
They are very nice. I got a lot of stuff from them and they are wonderful.
They also have rebuilt pneumatic squeezers which work just as well.
Mani Ravee
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of son hoang
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pneumatic cleco fastener
Thanks to all who provided advice, opinion and comments...I'll go ahead and
buy one... ($65 is best price I found.so far at the Yardstore.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy@abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Pneumatic cleco fastener
Best money you will spend. Sell it after completion if you don't need in
anymore and get most of your money back. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of son hoang
Subject: RV10-List: Pneumatic cleco fastener
Hi All
I am thinking of buying a pneumatic cleco tool
anybody has experience with one..good...bad...ugly ?
thanks
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco fastener |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Barry Chapman" <bcrnfnps@swoi.net>
Scott,
Thanks for the info. Some of the pictures (on Ebay) showed wingnuts and
others didn't. After I searched and didn't find anything on Google (didn't
look too hard), I went to Brown Tool Co (http://www.browntool.com) and they
had an explanation of what each was used for. The wing nut and also the hex
head "clecos" offer stronger holding power as well as variable length.
As mentioned Avery, Cleveland, etc are good tool companies. I also found
http://www.planetool.com has a tool set at $1795 and includes lots of
Snap-on tools in it (hence replaceable if broken).
Gonna build oneof these days!!!!!!
Barry
<snip>
>
> Barry Chapman wrote:
>> Along these lines, is there an advantage to using wedgelocks versus
>> clecos? Ebay has a lot of wedgelock guns for sale pretty inexpensive.
>> TIA
>
> Scott Lewis wrote:
>They are exactly the same, just different brand names. Cleco was the
>original brand and has been adopted as the generic term, much like
>Xerox-ing, despite the fact everyone makes copiers. The 'clecos' sold by
>Cleaveland Tools are Wedge-Loc.
>
> A note on Ebay, especially with regards to clecos. I have been looking
> around recently and found that this stuff often sells for much higher
> prices on Ebay than you could buy it for from one of the tool shops. For
> example, there is a set of cleco pliers at $8.50 with a couple of days to
> go. The exact same item at Cleaveland is $7. I have seen clecos sell for
> about $1-1.50 each, despite being 70c each at the tool shops.
>
> Have fun,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
> Adelaide, South Australia
Message 4
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=RTRvZSQN7+GsEuf01d/g8njNSAiAOZv8hKzLuD/4GkCLJQqfFXArGZcoEYJckVO/oSso7x0LxhdQYOc7AW1mZY7IPchZ0GiU4EohYEyltLh78lb14DbPvyso+p1n6kodKl5TO9Kwv8sdYBAvrTTj9laBDMSX7O4v07yaqRDRh20=
;
| Subject: | Deburring aileron counter weights |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
I've been putting this one off for a while... The ailerons use a stainless
steel tube counterweights that have a bunch of holes drilled into them. What
works for deburring? I've tried cogsdil bits and using a 3/8" dowel covered w/
sandpaper without much success. Steel burrs are really tough.
Thanks,
Jay
__________________________________
Message 5
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=VToGyDlvly1jFlYRc5aCd46YhwHderrzJF6ntLMPlHjqYaFkeYo9MDPvxh5IBUtd3qjpTVB9xPOr3GiPJgErrV8DRwEy6TtwI5QXV48Lwn40epanQNlfddGbv+0cSlJH4baEmsXF4LabrQPg7DQRUOcT0aDD97KNoPDcORP4y4s=
;
--> RV10-List message posted by: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds
great.
Robert
--- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David
> McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>
> While you are getting tools you should consider
> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill
> these will make short work of
> the hole cleaning and deburring of both sides
> of the hole in one pass.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark@macomb.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Mark Grieve
> <mark@macomb.com>
> >
> >
> >
> > Scott Lewis wrote:
> >
> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
> adopted as the generic term,
> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
> everyone makes copiers.
> >
> > Yes, there are many companies making "clecos"
> but who invented these
> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I haven't
> found much information. Any
> > manufacturing historians out there?
> > MG
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV10-List message posted by: David & Miriam Talley <rv10@satx.rr.com>
http://www.cogsdill.com/products.html
They have the double deburring tools. I also purchased several extra
blades and I got their machine countersinking tool and extra guides.
DCT
Message 7
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Try http://www.imts.com/visitor/exdir/showroom/00001408.html I believe the
tool and first blade about $50. replacement blades about $8. Blades last a
long time but forcing them through a hole can break them so buy an extra.
----- Original Message -----
From: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
>
> Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds
> great.
> Robert
> --- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David
>> McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>>
>> While you are getting tools you should consider
>> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
>> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill
>> these will make short work of
>> the hole cleaning and deburring of both sides
>> of the hole in one pass.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark@macomb.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
>>
>>
>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Mark Grieve
>> <mark@macomb.com>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Scott Lewis wrote:
>> >
>> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
>> adopted as the generic term,
>> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
>> everyone makes copiers.
>> >
>> > Yes, there are many companies making "clecos"
>> but who invented these
>> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I haven't
>> found much information. Any
>> > manufacturing historians out there?
>> > MG
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> to browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> Chat, FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 8
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=YuR2VxWgtjTvqqIOmW313rQiXXiO1yVSTMTIDxdmxzUuwxGT4YOk2c/zjzrALdzh0G/eapdKodZ3rYrjLl94B1PIHKmFoMFgkdjvYjl87Wm6a6dsXyXQ9/umMwboAq5tvsRFcCq5h1X+ZMctcj88I7Wrf4ValIM09z3wNGfVKkU=
;
What size Double Deburring tool do we need/want to get for Tail cone to Finish
kit?
David & Miriam Talley <rv10@satx.rr.com> wrote:--> RV10-List message posted by:
David & Miriam Talley
http://www.cogsdill.com/products.html
They have the double deburring tools. I also purchased several extra
blades and I got their machine countersinking tool and extra guides.
DCT
Message 9
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
Here is a better link. http://www.cogsdill.com/products.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
> --> RV10-List message posted by: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
>
> Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds
> great.
> Robert
> --- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David
>> McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>>
>> While you are getting tools you should consider
>> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
>> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill
>> these will make short work of
>> the hole cleaning and deburring of both sides
>> of the hole in one pass.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark@macomb.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
>>
>>
>> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Mark Grieve
>> <mark@macomb.com>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Scott Lewis wrote:
>> >
>> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
>> adopted as the generic term,
>> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
>> everyone makes copiers.
>> >
>> > Yes, there are many companies making "clecos"
>> but who invented these
>> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I haven't
>> found much information. Any
>> > manufacturing historians out there?
>> > MG
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> to browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> Chat, FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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Sorry when I said 30 and 40 I was referring to drill sizes. The only ones needed
are 3/32 and 1/8. There are few if any rivets in the Van's kit larger than 3
or 4 that is 3/32 and 1/8.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill McCoy
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill
What size Double Deburring tool do we need/want to get for Tail cone to Finish
kit?
Message 11
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
I thought the concept of these tools was great and they work very well on steel,
I felt they were a bit "agressive" on the aluminum. especially the thinner sheets.
Mike Howe said his worked great for him. Looks like everyones mileage is
variable. They aren't the cheapest things around, If I recall they were about
$40 each.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 12
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@Sausen.net>
Best place to get them is right from the company. Direct price is the
cheapest and the actual product name is the Burraway. Saves lot's of
time doing one pass, powered, deburring. You can also chuck it up in a
drill press for lots of smaller parts like ribs. I think I blew through
all or the flange holes on my HS ribs in less than 5 minutes. You will
still need the old manual deburrer though for larger or odd sized items.
www.cogsdill.com
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
--> RV10-List message posted by: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds great.
Robert
--- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David
> McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>
> While you are getting tools you should consider a Cogsdill deburring
> tool in at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill these will make
> short work of the hole cleaning and deburring of both sides of the
> hole in one pass.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark@macomb.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Mark Grieve
> <mark@macomb.com>
> >
> >
> >
> > Scott Lewis wrote:
> >
> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
> adopted as the generic term,
> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
> everyone makes copiers.
> >
> > Yes, there are many companies making "clecos"
> but who invented these
> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I haven't
> found much information. Any
> > manufacturing historians out there?
> > MG
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=0WMTci1dbBZ+PreLpVGV1zZEA90dQ/ppvfCpxkq9ig3Zrm+soB5eQG2tYWM5O2NhFjEGtvJCJtC6plw77LisDuW115dvGH66DRQSoXWJTEAIe/fFZ0BpTaD935AH1LyEkm0bOU93+fvWxoTeLfSZaJIsqxHiq4gFYQicM5qmNek=
;
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
I agree! I have been using this tool almost
exclusively to deburr all the holes. When properly
adjusted they remove the burr perfectly without taking
off too much material. It is very easy to use. The
best source is from Cogsdill directly for the 3/32 &
1/8 sizes. I have several of the larger sizes I would
sell for $5 each. If you are interested in any of the
larger sizes e-mail me at sfdarton@yahoo.com
Steve 40212 wings arrive next week
--- "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
<rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@Sausen.net>
>
> Best place to get them is right from the company.
> Direct price is the
> cheapest and the actual product name is the
> Burraway. Saves lot's of
> time doing one pass, powered, deburring. You can
> also chuck it up in a
> drill press for lots of smaller parts like ribs. I
> think I blew through
> all or the flange holes on my HS ribs in less than 5
> minutes. You will
> still need the old manual deburrer though for larger
> or odd sized items.
>
>
> www.cogsdill.com
>
> Michael
>
>
__________________________________
Message 14
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
My QB wings are about 8 (four hand ) hours from completion. The reason I am
emailing this morning is that I await the trip to the Fedex terminal to meet
the tilt bed truck to pickup the QB fuselage, finish kit and FF kits. Three
hours to go.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: tools
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>
> I agree! I have been using this tool almost
> exclusively to deburr all the holes. When properly
> adjusted they remove the burr perfectly without taking
> off too much material. It is very easy to use. The
> best source is from Cogsdill directly for the 3/32 &
> 1/8 sizes. I have several of the larger sizes I would
> sell for $5 each. If you are interested in any of the
> larger sizes e-mail me at sfdarton@yahoo.com
> Steve 40212 wings arrive next week
> --- "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "RV Builder
>> (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@Sausen.net>
>>
>> Best place to get them is right from the company.
>> Direct price is the
>> cheapest and the actual product name is the
>> Burraway. Saves lot's of
>> time doing one pass, powered, deburring. You can
>> also chuck it up in a
>> drill press for lots of smaller parts like ribs. I
>> think I blew through
>> all or the flange holes on my HS ribs in less than 5
>> minutes. You will
>> still need the old manual deburrer though for larger
>> or odd sized items.
>>
>>
>> www.cogsdill.com
>>
>> Michael
>>
>>
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Gluing in the windows |
This weekend I finished gluing in the windows on the doors and the rear
windows and have a few recommendations.
The glue that Van's supply's dries very very fast once it is applied to
the door flange. On the first door I did exactly what the instructions
said,"place a thin layer of glue on the flange". Well, the glue dries
in about 10 seconds when applied thin like that. I had to immediately
place a second, thicker layer, to the flange. The first door ended up
with some air pockets but it is definitely not coming out. On the second
door I put the glue into a syringe and applied it much faster and much
thicker and then put the window in and squeezed out and excess. The
second window turned out perfect.
On the rear windows I had to use the washers to move the window out and
make it flush with the top. Again the first window I found that I did
not apply enough glue and had a few air pockets. I think I am try
drilling some small holes from the inside out and filling the air
pockets but I also may not worry about it.
Make sure you use plenty of glue and do it quickly. It seems like the
glue that is exposed to air dries very quickly but once to get the
window on it takes about 15-20 minutes to set up to the point that it
will not move. Overall they were not too bad. I'm now working on the
installation of the door mechanism and wondering how to put a lock on
it.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
Message 16
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
Phone contact for deburring (both sides same hole) tool ... ordering direct
Kathleen 803-438-0240
I ordered YA-00938 this is the 3/32" $46.50 spare blades 8.60 ea.
YA-01250 this is the 1/8" 37.80 spares
7.60
They accept VISA or MC ship UPS
Very nice folks to deal with
Regards ...
Jerry Grimmonpre
RV7A
Huntley IL
Message 17
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| Subject: | Cogsdill Burraway tool |
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
These are great tools. I have the 3/32 and 1/8th and it is hard to remember life
without them. I am really glad I heard about them early in the building process.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Skinning HS
Message 18
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1.27 SUBJ_HAS_UNIQ_ID Subject contains a unique ID
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Folks:
Cracked the Empcone boxes and did the inventory. One table built. Two more
to go. Journey begins.
John Jessen
(N212PJ reserved; Empcone 0%)
Message 19
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|
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=OzILjchSySzHlg9SXfGpKOKB0nPyFYw0mPUeBbrhjHOeSrDcezLIm2nAzwo/ytSpKASSJ90+mmnCsK5fRtvw++S7mA2n84fxNVTOh1/aDKSQ3T3ndlkPOkzs6F98Z1f/NXMJXKQTnc6MVEHJI9gbvQdad97UkTiAK8sw2/34G4I=
;
--> RV10-List message posted by: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
Concerning deburring tools,I just got this email
from Cogsdill:
ROBERT,
YOU MAY ORDER DIRECT OR YOU MAY ORDER THU OUR REP
FOR YOUR AREA WHICH WOULD BE SPECIALTY TOOL PHONE
# 803-328-6326.
THE PRICE ON THE 3/32 PART NUMBER YA-00938 IS
$46.50 AND THE PRICE ON THE 1/8 PART NUMBER
YA-01250 IS $37.80. DELIVERY IS STOCK TO 3 DAYS.
THIS PRICING IS 1-6 PIECE PRICE.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST.
REGARDS,
LINDA SMITH
These seem pricy but considering the deburring I
have yet to do its probably worth it. Are these
the sizes I need?
Robert
--- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David
> McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>
> Try
>
http://www.imts.com/visitor/exdir/showroom/00001408.html
> I believe the
> tool and first blade about $50. replacement
> blades about $8. Blades last a
> long time but forcing them through a hole can
> break them so buy an extra.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 7:18 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by:
> <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds
> > great.
> > Robert
> > --- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David
> >> McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
> >>
> >> While you are getting tools you should
> consider
> >> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
> >> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill
> >> these will make short work of
> >> the hole cleaning and deburring of both
> sides
> >> of the hole in one pass.
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark@macomb.com>
> >> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
> >> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
> >>
> >>
> >> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Mark
> Grieve
> >> <mark@macomb.com>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Scott Lewis wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
> >> adopted as the generic term,
> >> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
> >> everyone makes copiers.
> >> >
> >> > Yes, there are many companies making
> "clecos"
> >> but who invented these
> >> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I
> haven't
> >> found much information. Any
> >> > manufacturing historians out there?
> >> > MG
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> to browse
> >> Subscriptions page,
> >> Chat, FAQ,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
One thing I have noticed.
At one point, I needed a long set for the universal rivets and purchased some 10"
long rivet sets. Using the long rivet set has totally eliminated smileys for
me.
I don't know why, but it seems that I am able to hold the rivet gun more steady
and maintain correct angle.
Just an observation.
Jim Combs
#40192
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Deburring aileron counter weights |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
That Stainless is really some tough stuff!
I wrapped a small sheet of sandpaper to a wood dowl and chucked the dowl in a cordless
drill. used foam pad under the paper to get a snug fit.
Ran the dowl / sandpaper up and down the tube. Cleaned the burrs off.
They are tough to remove. Not at all like the aluminum.
Jim Combs
#40192
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
I've been putting this one off for a while... The ailerons use a stainless
steel tube counterweights that have a bunch of holes drilled into them. What
works for deburring? I've tried cogsdil bits and using a 3/8" dowel covered w/
sandpaper without much success. Steel burrs are really tough.
Thanks,
Jay
__________________________________
Message 22
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--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
In my opinion, they are worth every cent. I thought the same thing when
I was deciding to purchase. Now...I would not give mine up.
Kent Forsythe
40338
HS-Skinning
Wings-Awaiting Delivery
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
--> RV10-List message posted by: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
Concerning deburring tools,I just got this email
from Cogsdill:
ROBERT,
YOU MAY ORDER DIRECT OR YOU MAY ORDER THU OUR REP
FOR YOUR AREA WHICH WOULD BE SPECIALTY TOOL PHONE
# 803-328-6326.
THE PRICE ON THE 3/32 PART NUMBER YA-00938 IS
$46.50 AND THE PRICE ON THE 1/8 PART NUMBER
YA-01250 IS $37.80. DELIVERY IS STOCK TO 3 DAYS.
THIS PRICING IS 1-6 PIECE PRICE.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST.
REGARDS,
LINDA SMITH
These seem pricy but considering the deburring I
have yet to do its probably worth it. Are these
the sizes I need?
Robert
--- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David
> McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>
> Try
>
http://www.imts.com/visitor/exdir/showroom/00001408.html
> I believe the
> tool and first blade about $50. replacement
> blades about $8. Blades last a
> long time but forcing them through a hole can
> break them so buy an extra.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 7:18 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by:
> <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds
> > great.
> > Robert
> > --- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David
> >> McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
> >>
> >> While you are getting tools you should
> consider
> >> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
> >> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill
> >> these will make short work of
> >> the hole cleaning and deburring of both
> sides
> >> of the hole in one pass.
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark@macomb.com>
> >> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
> >> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
> >>
> >>
> >> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Mark
> Grieve
> >> <mark@macomb.com>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Scott Lewis wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
> >> adopted as the generic term,
> >> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
> >> everyone makes copiers.
> >> >
> >> > Yes, there are many companies making
> "clecos"
> >> but who invented these
> >> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I
> haven't
> >> found much information. Any
> >> > manufacturing historians out there?
> >> > MG
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> to browse
> >> Subscriptions page,
> >> Chat, FAQ,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Test message - Do Not Archive |
Just a test
Do Not Archive
Kent Forsythe
40338
Message 24
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Anyone interested in a group buy of 7 sets?
Wonder what the price break is?
Jim Combs
#40192
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
Concerning deburring tools,I just got this email
from Cogsdill:
ROBERT,
YOU MAY ORDER DIRECT OR YOU MAY ORDER THU OUR REP
FOR YOUR AREA WHICH WOULD BE SPECIALTY TOOL PHONE
# 803-328-6326.
THE PRICE ON THE 3/32 PART NUMBER YA-00938 IS
$46.50 AND THE PRICE ON THE 1/8 PART NUMBER
YA-01250 IS $37.80. DELIVERY IS STOCK TO 3 DAYS.
THIS PRICING IS 1-6 PIECE PRICE.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST.
REGARDS,
LINDA SMITH
These seem pricy but considering the deburring I
have yet to do its probably worth it. Are these
the sizes I need?
Robert
--- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David
> McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
>
> Try
>
http://www.imts.com/visitor/exdir/showroom/00001408.html
> I believe the
> tool and first blade about $50. replacement
> blades about $8. Blades last a
> long time but forcing them through a hole can
> break them so buy an extra.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 7:18 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by:
> <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds
> > great.
> > Robert
> > --- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David
> >> McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
> >>
> >> While you are getting tools you should
> consider
> >> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
> >> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill
> >> these will make short work of
> >> the hole cleaning and deburring of both
> sides
> >> of the hole in one pass.
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark@macomb.com>
> >> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> >> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
> >> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
> >>
> >>
> >> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Mark
> Grieve
> >> <mark@macomb.com>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Scott Lewis wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
> >> adopted as the generic term,
> >> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
> >> everyone makes copiers.
> >> >
> >> > Yes, there are many companies making
> "clecos"
> >> but who invented these
> >> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I
> haven't
> >> found much information. Any
> >> > manufacturing historians out there?
> >> > MG
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> to browse
> >> Subscriptions page,
> >> Chat, FAQ,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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Are you using a piece of masking tape on the end of the set? When I first
started building my -4 I was getting a lot of smilies. I then started using a
piece of masking tape taped to the end of the set in the rivet gun and it
eliminated the problem. It provides just enough cushion to keep the set from
wanting to bounce off, and it cushions out the other tool marks. Also use it
on the flat set for flush head rivets. Replace it when it either rips
through or appears worn.
Mike Kraus
N223RV - RV-4 Flying
N213RV - RV-10 - Working on wings......
Message 26
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
>One thing I have noticed.
>
>At one point, I needed a long set for the universal rivets and purchased
>some 10" long rivet sets. Using the long rivet set has totally eliminated
>smileys for me.
>
>I don't know why, but it seems that I am able to hold the rivet gun more
>steady and maintain correct angle.
>
>Just an observation.
>
>Jim Combs
>#40192
I also seem to get better results with the longer sets. Could be due to the
added mass of the set. It is also easier to align the set perfectly square
to the surface as the longer set can be seen readily, reflected in the shiny
aluminum to key you in on gun alignment.
Just my observation to your observation!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 27
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clamav-milter version 0.80j
on apollo
Is it just me or is the windshield permanent? I guess we just hope we don't
get any scratches on it. That would be a TON of work to replace in the
future. We have replaced windows in our 172 an PA-14. What happens when we
get to that point on the -10?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 28
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It's been mentioned tangentially a couple of times, but has anyone come up with
any good ideas or made any movement towards door locks for their RV-10? I kind
of don't want to lose $50,000 worth of electronics . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Windshield
Is it just me or is the windshield permanent? I guess we just hope we don't get
any scratches on it. That would be a TON of work to replace in the future.
We have replaced windows in our 172 an PA-14. What happens when we get to that
point on the -10?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 29
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Is it just me or is the windshield permanent? I guess we just hope we
>don't
>get any scratches on it. That would be a TON of work to replace in the
>future. We have replaced windows in our 172 an PA-14. What happens when
>we
>get to that point on the -10?
>
>
>Jesse Saint
As permanent as can be. It does seem rather short sighted, but it IS simple
and eliminates the heart thumping experience of drilling all those holes in
the plexiglass...while praying you don't crack it. That's the usual RV
experience....fearing a $700 crack while installing the canopy. The only
way around the glue approach I can think of is attachment via flush screws
into nutplates. The window ledges in the lid would have to be cleaned up
and painted to match the aircraft color scheme for cosmetic reasons, or,
could carry the finish paint color over the glass to a masked line just
inside the screws. It's all a compromise of ease of service/future
replacement vs. cosmetics. They seldom are mutually supportive!
I'm currently dealing with this on my -8. The windshield started detaching
from the molded carbon fiber/epoxyglass fairing around the front deck.
Lycosaur shake is to blame I'm sure. So, I'm having to grind off the
fairing, as it was showing cracks in the paint....not the fairing itself,
but the high build primer the paint guy used. I'm essentially rebuilding
the fairing and painting to best color match as I can get. Oh yeah, this
should be fun. Some RV'ers have gone with screws into nuts, nutserts, etc,
and molded the windshield fairing as a separate, detachable unit. The
windshield is screwed to the rollbar under the fairing so the whole thing
can be taken off easily. They actually look very nice when done with care,
but not as nice as an integral windshield/fairing unit all glued and blended
in to the fuselage deck. It's all a matter of personal taste.
Thanks for bringing this up. I've been pondering it myself.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD finishing off the never ending annual.
RV10 '51
Message 30
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>It's been mentioned tangentially a couple of times, but has anyone come up
>with any good ideas or made any movement towards door locks for their
>RV-10? I kind of don't want to lose $50,000 worth of electronics . . .
>
>TDT
I'm not overly concerned about it...yet. I figure if they want the stuff
bad enough, they'll smash, cut and destroy the door or window, THEN take
what they want. I'd prefer they just open the door without mangling all my
hard work, take the stuff and leave. A phone call to insurance dude would
be the next step.
No right answer to this one, that's for sure. Locks only keep honest people
honest. The hard core punks will stop at nothing.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 31
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| Subject: | QB fuselage,Finish and FF kits unloading |
About 1400 pounds arrived today. 3 boxes (700+,400+200+) were loaded at the Fedex
terminal onto an auto recovery tilt bed truck. At my garage 700+ slid/pushed
to rear as bed tilted and two 1000 rated furniture dollies placed under. box
slid the rest off the way of bed and moved to garage location. Other boxes handled
same way. Use the tow trucks tilt bed if you do not have access to a fork
lift.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 4:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Locks
It's been mentioned tangentially a couple of times, but has anyone come up with
any good ideas or made any movement towards door locks for their RV-10? I
kind of don't want to lose $50,000 worth of electronics . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 7:47 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Windshield
Is it just me or is the windshield permanent? I guess we just hope we don't
get any scratches on it. That would be a TON of work to replace in the future.
We have replaced windows in our 172 an PA-14. What happens when we get to
that point on the -10?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 32
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I've made the decision that door locks will only make me lose $50K worth
of electronics AND have to replace a window and/or a door. :)
-Sean #40303
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> It's been mentioned tangentially a couple of times, but has anyone
> come up with any good ideas or made any movement towards door locks
> for their RV-10? I kind of don't want to lose $50,000 worth of
> electronics . . .
> TDT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Jesse
> Saint
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 05, 2005 7:47 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Windshield
>
> Is it just me or is the windshield permanent? I guess we just hope
> we dont get any scratches on it. That would be a TON of work to
> replace in the future. We have replaced windows in our 172 an
> PA-14. What happens when we get to that point on the -10?
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse@itecusa.org <mailto:jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
Message 33
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Maybe the automatic flame-thrower alarm system would work . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Locks
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>It's been mentioned tangentially a couple of times, but has anyone come up
>with any good ideas or made any movement towards door locks for their
>RV-10? I kind of don't want to lose $50,000 worth of electronics . . .
>
>TDT
I'm not overly concerned about it...yet. I figure if they want the stuff
bad enough, they'll smash, cut and destroy the door or window, THEN take
what they want. I'd prefer they just open the door without mangling all my
hard work, take the stuff and leave. A phone call to insurance dude would
be the next step.
No right answer to this one, that's for sure. Locks only keep honest people
honest. The hard core punks will stop at nothing.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 34
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Hi All.
Thought I'd add my two cents worth re: tools. Things I've discovered so far:
1. Wish I'd bought a 3X rivet gun to start. The 2X is fine for the 3/32
rivets but is kinda puny for the 1/8 rivets especially the longer ones. Nothing
assures a smiling rivet more than hammering away with a 2X gun trying to set
a long 1/8 rivet. 2. #30 and #40 straight fluted reams leave a beautiful round
hole with a minimum of burs. I've used these from the start, I'll match drill
when necessary with the fractional drill and then go back to the ream for
the final size. 3. Don't waste money on clecoes from e-bay! I did, however, pick
up a nice 4X recoilless rivet gun from e-bay. ( sets those aforementioned
1/8" rivets right now! ) 4. The "C" frame is great for riveting! With a 12" back
rivet set you can do a fine job on spars, bulkheads etc.5. I found a piece
of steel at a scrap yard that's 5" x 20" x 1/2" and it works great as a back
rivet plate, especially on the tailcone. 6. A bandsaw is indispensable. 7. A very
slowly turning cordless drill is best for drilling out a rivet.
Message 35
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=yQLuUXBqaFibt+bif8BGVbC+pUM/lono4ceeoxDb79Iwv8R/JYJn4QYNx/oQnKWhARk3o5XlwnajVR9kuxD8KG1BUU2JJaP2M3zkEbdJn3mUkCz1erQ9rdhOAfG4RQeWkNymoXFaIQDiAuAbFh/263Lwx/4e9TubRLX1xASgVgw=
;
--> RV10-List message posted by: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
I'll call tomorrow and find out. Stay tuned----
Robert
--- Jim Combs <jimc@mail.infra-read.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs"
> <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
> Anyone interested in a group buy of 7 sets?
>
> Wonder what the price break is?
>
> Jim Combs
> #40192
>
>
> ---------- Original Message
> ----------------------------------
> From: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 13:15:04 -0700 (PDT)
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by:
> <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
>
> Concerning deburring tools,I just got this
> email
> from Cogsdill:
>
> ROBERT,
>
> YOU MAY ORDER DIRECT OR YOU MAY ORDER THU OUR
> REP
> FOR YOUR AREA WHICH WOULD BE SPECIALTY TOOL
> PHONE
> # 803-328-6326.
>
> THE PRICE ON THE 3/32 PART NUMBER YA-00938 IS
> $46.50 AND THE PRICE ON THE 1/8 PART NUMBER
> YA-01250 IS $37.80. DELIVERY IS STOCK TO 3
> DAYS.
> THIS PRICING IS 1-6 PIECE PRICE.
>
> THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST.
>
> REGARDS,
> LINDA SMITH
>
> These seem pricy but considering the deburring
> I
> have yet to do its probably worth it. Are these
> the sizes I need?
> Robert
> --- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "David
> > McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
> >
> > Try
> >
>
http://www.imts.com/visitor/exdir/showroom/00001408.html
> > I believe the
> > tool and first blade about $50. replacement
> > blades about $8. Blades last a
> > long time but forcing them through a hole can
> > break them so buy an extra.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 7:18 AM
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
> >
> >
> > > --> RV10-List message posted by:
> > <retiredpilot03-serv@yahoo.com>
> > >
> > > Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It
> sounds
> > > great.
> > > Robert
> > > --- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "David
> > >> McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
> > >>
> > >> While you are getting tools you should
> > consider
> > >> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
> > >> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air
> drill
> > >> these will make short work of
> > >> the hole cleaning and deburring of both
> > sides
> > >> of the hole in one pass.
> > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > >> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark@macomb.com>
> > >> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > >> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
> > >> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Mark
> > Grieve
> > >> <mark@macomb.com>
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> > Scott Lewis wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> >> Cleco was the original brand and has
> been
> > >> adopted as the generic term,
> > >> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
> > >> everyone makes copiers.
> > >> >
> > >> > Yes, there are many companies making
> > "clecos"
> > >> but who invented these
> > >> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I
> > haven't
> > >> found much information. Any
> > >> > manufacturing historians out there?
> > >> > MG
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> to browse
> > >> Subscriptions page,
> > >> Chat, FAQ,
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > to browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > Chat, FAQ,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
>
=== message truncated ===
Message 36
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
The Hartwell latches are sometimes used on Lancairs (a dirty word over
here). Some of which have upwards of $70 to 120,000 of avionics onboard.
That's not a typo and in addition to the $100,000 basic kit (sans engine).
With two or three Cheltons and an MX-20 the issue becomes deterrent.
A committed thief will stop at nothing. A novice might try his hand at the
removable components on a whim. Since some avionics shops don't check serial
numbers for the HOT SHEET when they are doing work. Taking away the whim is
the tangential issue. Maybe those $5,000 OA front seats will be the new
pursuit product for 2005.
You might research the Hartwell HTL100s. http://www.enfasco.com/Hartwel2.htm
Your insurance dude might give input on steps to remove the inducement, like
your deductible or that 500,000 terra volt unlocked "heart stopper" door
handle. One plastic canopy/door builder installed a Lincoln/Ford electronic
flush mounted numeric pad.
Always Tangent to the Arc,
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Locks
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Maybe the automatic flame-thrower alarm system would work . . .
TDT
Message 37
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| Subject: | tools (cogsdill) |
spamd1.ruraltel.net
* -2.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_2 Message came from 24.225.10-29.x network
Jim, I may be interested in a group buy on the deburring tools. Does anybody have
a price on the sets if more than 6 are purchased??
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
Deburring HS
Message 38
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@mail.ameritel.net>
Plus it would take a lot of side movement in your hand to get the same delta
in angle compared to a short rivet set. My smileys are usually when I'm not
careful setting a rivet while a rib underneath is right at the edge of the
rivet set. I also find that it takes more psi to get the same bang out of a
long set. So if it works better using a long set without increasing psi,
it may just mean that your air pressure is set a little high when using a
short set.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Smiley's
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
> One thing I have noticed.
>
> At one point, I needed a long set for the universal rivets and purchased
some 10" long rivet sets. Using the long rivet set has totally eliminated
smileys for me.
>
> I don't know why, but it seems that I am able to hold the rivet gun more
steady and maintain correct angle.
>
> Just an observation.
>
> Jim Combs
> #40192
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
Message 39
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "David McNeill" <dlm46007@cox.net>
One other thing I use is a draw bead; that is small piece of baffling
material with either a 30 or 40 hole drilled through it. This is used when
two or more sheets of metal are to be riveted but due to tension are not
held tightly together. By placing the draw bead on the end of the rivet and
lightly hitting the rivet with a burst from the gun you will pull the pieces
together and the draw bead can be removed and the rivet finished.
---- Original Message -----
From: "DejaVu" <wvu@mail.ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Smiley's
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@mail.ameritel.net>
>
> Plus it would take a lot of side movement in your hand to get the same
> delta
> in angle compared to a short rivet set. My smileys are usually when I'm
> not
> careful setting a rivet while a rib underneath is right at the edge of the
> rivet set. I also find that it takes more psi to get the same bang out of
> a
> long set. So if it works better using a long set without increasing psi,
> it may just mean that your air pressure is set a little high when using a
> short set.
> Anh
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 4:37 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Smiley's
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>>
>> One thing I have noticed.
>>
>> At one point, I needed a long set for the universal rivets and purchased
> some 10" long rivet sets. Using the long rivet set has totally eliminated
> smileys for me.
>>
>> I don't know why, but it seems that I am able to hold the rivet gun more
> steady and maintain correct angle.
>>
>> Just an observation.
>>
>> Jim Combs
>> #40192
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>>
>
> ---
>
>
>
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