Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:30 AM - Re: HS Nose Ribs (Rick)
2. 09:44 AM - Re: HS Nose Ribs (matronix.rv10@4sythe.com)
3. 10:14 AM - Re: HS Nose Ribs (Rick)
4. 10:28 AM - Re: HS Nose Ribs (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
5. 11:05 AM - Re: HS Nose Ribs (Jeff Carpenter)
6. 11:11 AM - Re: HS Nose Ribs (Rick)
7. 03:38 PM - builder (Robert G. Wright)
8. 04:45 PM - Duckworks lights - Is one HID enough? (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
9. 05:10 PM - Re: builder (James Hein)
10. 05:24 PM - Re: HS Nose Ribs (Tim Olson)
11. 07:39 PM - Re: HS Nose Ribs (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
12. 09:23 PM - Re: HS Nose Ribs (Stein Bruch)
13. 10:01 PM - Re: HS Nose Ribs (JOHN STARN)
14. 10:12 PM - Re: Duckworks lights - Is one HID enough? (Bill McCoy)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: HS Nose Ribs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Michael,
If I had to do it again I would get somebody to help. My arms were pretty sore
and brusied up after doing those HS skins. When I was almost done fellow -10 builder
John Erickson came over and we finished the rest without even breaking
a sweat. I was lucky not to have made any smileys. Other than the fact I use a
mushroom set with a rubber lip that keeps it in place, It isn't the swivel type,
I have managed to develop a good feel for balancing the bucking bar on top
of the rivet by feel, sorta teeterer tottering while concentrating on the rivet
set. Be careful not to let the bar touch the skin or you'll get the infamous
reverse smiley. You will get de'jevu when you get to the leading edge wing skins
and tanks. Bottom line is take your time, make sure the bar is not touching
the skins and the rivet set is flush on the skin. Don't be in a big hurry to
fire off the gun. Slow taps to start seem to work just as well as a suicide
burst.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 2
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--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
Does anyone have recommendations on fixing a smiley after it is already
there? I have one right near the front HS spar where the bucking bar
slipped off of the rivet. The indention is very noticeable and I'm not
sure if it should be filled in before final priming and painting or if I
should address it before that. How much should I worry about this and
is there any impact on structural integrity?
Thoughts/Ideas?
Kent Forsythe
FORTECH, LLC
8919 Brookside Ave.
Suite 201
West Chester, Ohio 45069
513.759.2000 voice
513.759.2001 fax
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS Nose Ribs
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Michael,
If I had to do it again I would get somebody to help. My arms were
pretty sore and brusied up after doing those HS skins. When I was almost
done fellow -10 builder John Erickson came over and we finished the rest
without even breaking a sweat. I was lucky not to have made any smileys.
Other than the fact I use a mushroom set with a rubber lip that keeps it
in place, It isn't the swivel type, I have managed to develop a good
feel for balancing the bucking bar on top of the rivet by feel, sorta
teeterer tottering while concentrating on the rivet set. Be careful not
to let the bar touch the skin or you'll get the infamous reverse smiley.
You will get de'jevu when you get to the leading edge wing skins and
tanks. Bottom line is take your time, make sure the bar is not touching
the skins and the rivet set is flush on the skin. Don't be in a big
hurry to fire off the gun. Slow taps to start seem to work just as well
as a suicide burst.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
From what I understand as long as it isn't cracked or punctured you should be able
to fill and sand as part of the prep for paint. On other RV's I have seen
smileys just painted over, other who had none visible said that they had used
body filler to cover them up. I would think it would take a heck of a hit to cause
enough damage to be considered structural. I looked it up in the practices
and standards but could not find dents addresed as much as crack and application
of patches over damaged areas. I know there are a few A & P types building
and lurking that might have some more insight. They always look worse than they
are, especially on nice shiny alumium. I have experimented on my VS by fine
sanding, which takes away the look of it being so severe, followed by a dab
of Rage Gold filler, fine sanding and primer ...the dent is history. So...only
you will be the one losing sleep over it. I'm sure there are many more to come
if not from riveting then hanger rash, large bugs and drooling spectators.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
Feather and fill, you will have to do this many times, at least that's
what I have been told, I was really worried about smileys, and everyone
I have talked with says you will fill it, feather it, prime and paint. I
say ok, but what do I fill it with? I have heard bondo contracts and
will eventually crack, What should we use to make minor cosmetic fixes?
Dumb question, I know, but like everything else I have learned building
this plane, there is probably an easier answer then I am coming up with.
Dan 40269
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS Nose Ribs
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
Does anyone have recommendations on fixing a smiley after it is already
there? I have one right near the front HS spar where the bucking bar
slipped off of the rivet. The indention is very noticeable and I'm not
sure if it should be filled in before final priming and painting or if I
should address it before that. How much should I worry about this and
is there any impact on structural integrity?
Thoughts/Ideas?
Kent Forsythe
FORTECH, LLC
8919 Brookside Ave.
Suite 201
West Chester, Ohio 45069
513.759.2000 voice
513.759.2001 fax
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS Nose Ribs
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Michael,
If I had to do it again I would get somebody to help. My arms were
pretty sore and brusied up after doing those HS skins. When I was almost
done fellow -10 builder John Erickson came over and we finished the rest
without even breaking a sweat. I was lucky not to have made any smileys.
Other than the fact I use a mushroom set with a rubber lip that keeps it
in place, It isn't the swivel type, I have managed to develop a good
feel for balancing the bucking bar on top of the rivet by feel, sorta
teeterer tottering while concentrating on the rivet set. Be careful not
to let the bar touch the skin or you'll get the infamous reverse smiley.
You will get de'jevu when you get to the leading edge wing skins and
tanks. Bottom line is take your time, make sure the bar is not touching
the skins and the rivet set is flush on the skin. Don't be in a big
hurry to fire off the gun. Slow taps to start seem to work just as well
as a suicide burst.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: HS Nose Ribs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
Hi Kent,
The only impact is on your ego. Bondo will hide it... or you can just
consider it an RV birth mark.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Apr 22, 2005, at 9:30 AM, matronix.rv10@4sythe.com wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
>
> Does anyone have recommendations on fixing a smiley after it is already
> there? I have one right near the front HS spar where the bucking bar
> slipped off of the rivet. The indention is very noticeable and I'm not
> sure if it should be filled in before final priming and painting or if
> I
> should address it before that. How much should I worry about this and
> is there any impact on structural integrity?
>
> Thoughts/Ideas?
>
> Kent Forsythe
> FORTECH, LLC
> 8919 Brookside Ave.
> Suite 201
> West Chester, Ohio 45069
>
> 513.759.2000 voice
> 513.759.2001 fax
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
> com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 10:16 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS Nose Ribs
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Michael,
>
> If I had to do it again I would get somebody to help. My arms were
> pretty sore and brusied up after doing those HS skins. When I was
> almost
> done fellow -10 builder John Erickson came over and we finished the
> rest
> without even breaking a sweat. I was lucky not to have made any
> smileys.
> Other than the fact I use a mushroom set with a rubber lip that keeps
> it
> in place, It isn't the swivel type, I have managed to develop a good
> feel for balancing the bucking bar on top of the rivet by feel, sorta
> teeterer tottering while concentrating on the rivet set. Be careful not
> to let the bar touch the skin or you'll get the infamous reverse
> smiley.
> You will get de'jevu when you get to the leading edge wing skins and
> tanks. Bottom line is take your time, make sure the bar is not touching
> the skins and the rivet set is flush on the skin. Don't be in a big
> hurry to fire off the gun. Slow taps to start seem to work just as well
> as a suicide burst.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
I have used bondo's spot putty over straight body filler or even by itself it should
be OK for a small, shallow ding, it's a finer blend/grade of filling material
and should adhere if the metal is squeaky clean and preped. Regular plastic
body filer is a bit too coarse of a material for small dings. It tends not
to dans to a nice feathered edge you need on a smiley. The final feather should
be accomplished by a filler type of sandable primer wet sanded. I think this
conversation is going to start tiny little flames heading our/my way, everyones
got their own method...I like to hear what others have perfected as well.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 7
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All,
Vans has started inputting all the orders from SNF.
My tail kit went to crating yesterday; it should ship early next week.do I
dare expect local pickup by next Friday???
Rob
#40392
Awaiting tail kit inventory
Message 8
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| Subject: | Duckworks lights - Is one HID enough? |
John,
I think a great solution is, as you mention, using the Van's RV-10 Tip
Lights connected to an alternating flash device, then using an HID in
the left wing or both wings to get maximum visibility for taxi/landing.
It seems like one would be enough, but some will want 2 HID. Since they
draw so little current (~3.5amps), 2 of them are less than a single 100W
Halogen.
You could install one Round HID and one Round 100W halogen initially,
and upgrading to the second HID later would be a very easy task.
For those who want to locate and try some other lamp, we can supply an
install kit with a rectangular or round mount and all other hardware.
Other than determining how to get your lamp into our mount, this will
save you a ton of effort and ensure a clean installation.
The Duck
________________________________
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Duckworks lights for the 10
As per your suggestion, I've decided to go with the standard wing tip
lights for the -10 to be used as flashers, with HID for taxi, etc. Do
you suggest one or two HID? I've not seen them in use.
John Jessen
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 8:05 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Duckworks lights for the 10
=09
=09
In case you all have not heard....
Dan Lloyd,
the new RV-10 kits are completed and ready for order now!
I don't have the website updated yet, but any orders I receive
before the update will be at the same prices as for the RV-4/6/7/8 kits.
We will carry the 55w, 100w, and HID for the RV-10, but once the
website is updated the HID will only be available thru Van's, with a
small price increase, due to the increased parts count in the new kits.
The 55w and 100w will continue to be available on our website
for direct order.
Note that the kits are basically the same as for the other RVs,
the primary difference being an improved lens mounting method that will
insure a tighter fit to the skin, and eliminates holes in the lens which
were an occasional source of cracking.
Sincerely,
Duckworks
Message 9
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d="scan'208"; a="751119408:sNHT28476496"
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Robert,
I sent my order in on the 1st, it was in crating on the 8th, and it was
in my workshop on the 20th, started working on it today, the 22nd. (What
have I gotten myself into?!? )
I live in eastern MA, so it is almost as far from Vans as you can expect.
Also, the freight companies are charging 13.9% fuel surcharge !!!
-Jim (#40384)
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> All,
>
> Vans has started inputting all the orders from SNF.
>
> My tail kit went to crating yesterday; it should ship early next
> weekdo I dare expect local pickup by next Friday???
>
> Rob
>
> #40392
>
> Awaiting tail kit inventory
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: HS Nose Ribs |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
OK, I'm going to try not to look like an idiot here but...
I've always wondered when people talk about smileys, are they
talking about when the rivet head itself gets the curved marks
on it, or is this when your mushroom set starts to angle a bit
and you end up with a curved ring the size of a quarter around
the rivet area. I've also had it happen when I've bounced off
the edge of a rib when doing a skin, and ended up with a slight
dent where the rib stops supporting the skin.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
matronix.rv10@4sythe.com wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
>
> Does anyone have recommendations on fixing a smiley after it is already
> there? I have one right near the front HS spar where the bucking bar
> slipped off of the rivet. The indention is very noticeable and I'm not
> sure if it should be filled in before final priming and painting or if I
> should address it before that. How much should I worry about this and
> is there any impact on structural integrity?
>
> Thoughts/Ideas?
>
> Kent Forsythe
> FORTECH, LLC
> 8919 Brookside Ave.
> Suite 201
> West Chester, Ohio 45069
>
> 513.759.2000 voice
> 513.759.2001 fax
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
> com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 10:16 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS Nose Ribs
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Michael,
>
> If I had to do it again I would get somebody to help. My arms were
> pretty sore and brusied up after doing those HS skins. When I was almost
> done fellow -10 builder John Erickson came over and we finished the rest
> without even breaking a sweat. I was lucky not to have made any smileys.
> Other than the fact I use a mushroom set with a rubber lip that keeps it
> in place, It isn't the swivel type, I have managed to develop a good
> feel for balancing the bucking bar on top of the rivet by feel, sorta
> teeterer tottering while concentrating on the rivet set. Be careful not
> to let the bar touch the skin or you'll get the infamous reverse smiley.
> You will get de'jevu when you get to the leading edge wing skins and
> tanks. Bottom line is take your time, make sure the bar is not touching
> the skins and the rivet set is flush on the skin. Don't be in a big
> hurry to fire off the gun. Slow taps to start seem to work just as well
> as a suicide burst.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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It would appear both. Having just generated a few from the mushroom set myself,
I can definatly see how those could be called smileys. I believe the original
term was from the 426 sets not being on center causing the semi-circle on the
rivets themselves.
Just my 2 cents.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS Nose Ribs
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
OK, I'm going to try not to look like an idiot here but...
I've always wondered when people talk about smileys, are they talking about when
the rivet head itself gets the curved marks on it, or is this when your mushroom
set starts to angle a bit and you end up with a curved ring the size of a
quarter around the rivet area. I've also had it happen when I've bounced off
the edge of a rib when doing a skin, and ended up with a slight dent where the
rib stops supporting the skin.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
matronix.rv10@4sythe.com wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
>
> Does anyone have recommendations on fixing a smiley after it is
> already there? I have one right near the front HS spar where the
> bucking bar slipped off of the rivet. The indention is very
> noticeable and I'm not sure if it should be filled in before final
> priming and painting or if I should address it before that. How much
> should I worry about this and is there any impact on structural integrity?
>
> Thoughts/Ideas?
>
> Kent Forsythe
> FORTECH, LLC
> 8919 Brookside Ave.
> Suite 201
> West Chester, Ohio 45069
>
> 513.759.2000 voice
> 513.759.2001 fax
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
> com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 10:16 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS Nose Ribs
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Michael,
>
> If I had to do it again I would get somebody to help. My arms were
> pretty sore and brusied up after doing those HS skins. When I was
> almost done fellow -10 builder John Erickson came over and we finished
> the rest without even breaking a sweat. I was lucky not to have made any smileys.
> Other than the fact I use a mushroom set with a rubber lip that keeps
> it in place, It isn't the swivel type, I have managed to develop a
> good feel for balancing the bucking bar on top of the rivet by feel,
> sorta teeterer tottering while concentrating on the rivet set. Be
> careful not to let the bar touch the skin or you'll get the infamous reverse
smiley.
> You will get de'jevu when you get to the leading edge wing skins and
> tanks. Bottom line is take your time, make sure the bar is not
> touching the skins and the rivet set is flush on the skin. Don't be in
> a big hurry to fire off the gun. Slow taps to start seem to work just
> as well as a suicide burst.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
>
>
Message 12
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d="scan'217,208"; a="239829009:sNHT30842474"
RE: RV10-List: HS Nose RibsAcutally, "smileys" aren't really known as a
phenomenon on flush rivets at all. Dents from your mushroom set should be
called that, dents. If they happen to be in a semi-cirlce then you have
something like a "giant smiley" on the metal, but not really on the rivet.
"Traditional" smileys are from button head rivets (470's) when you have the
rivet set off to the side when shooting, it leaves a really nice, little
smile on the rivet head. Depending on how bad your screw up was, it may be
a minor smile, or I've seen them where they've almost sliced the rivet head
in half (yikes)!
Anyway, just wanted to clear that up! Been around rivets for awhile now,
from little RV's to 747's (and lot's of stuff in between) and that's what
I've been exposed to.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 9:22 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS Nose Ribs
It would appear both. Having just generated a few from the mushroom set
myself, I can definatly see how those could be called smileys. I believe
the original term was from the 426 sets not being on center causing the
semi-circle on the rivets themselves.
Just my 2 cents.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 7:06 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS Nose Ribs
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
OK, I'm going to try not to look like an idiot here but...
I've always wondered when people talk about smileys, are they talking
about when the rivet head itself gets the curved marks on it, or is this
when your mushroom set starts to angle a bit and you end up with a curved
ring the size of a quarter around the rivet area. I've also had it happen
when I've bounced off the edge of a rib when doing a skin, and ended up with
a slight dent where the rib stops supporting the skin.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
matronix.rv10@4sythe.com wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
>
> Does anyone have recommendations on fixing a smiley after it is
> already there? I have one right near the front HS spar where the
> bucking bar slipped off of the rivet. The indention is very
> noticeable and I'm not sure if it should be filled in before final
> priming and painting or if I should address it before that. How much
> should I worry about this and is there any impact on structural
integrity?
>
> Thoughts/Ideas?
>
> Kent Forsythe
> FORTECH, LLC
> 8919 Brookside Ave.
> Suite 201
> West Chester, Ohio 45069
>
> 513.759.2000 voice
> 513.759.2001 fax
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
> com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 10:16 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS Nose Ribs
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> Michael,
>
> If I had to do it again I would get somebody to help. My arms were
> pretty sore and brusied up after doing those HS skins. When I was
> almost done fellow -10 builder John Erickson came over and we finished
> the rest without even breaking a sweat. I was lucky not to have made any
smileys.
> Other than the fact I use a mushroom set with a rubber lip that keeps
> it in place, It isn't the swivel type, I have managed to develop a
> good feel for balancing the bucking bar on top of the rivet by feel,
> sorta teeterer tottering while concentrating on the rivet set. Be
> careful not to let the bar touch the skin or you'll get the infamous
reverse smiley.
> You will get de'jevu when you get to the leading edge wing skins and
> tanks. Bottom line is take your time, make sure the bar is not
> touching the skins and the rivet set is flush on the skin. Don't be in
> a big hurry to fire off the gun. Slow taps to start seem to work just
> as well as a suicide burst.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: HS Nose Ribs |
RE: RV10-List: HS Nose RibsYES...
There are no stupid questions. As my ole pappy usta say "It's better to ask a question
& maybe look foolish for a second, than not ask it and remain ignorant
for the rest of your life". KABONG 8*) (GBA & GWB)
Do Not Archive
I've always wondered when people talk about smileys, are they talking about when
the rivet head itself gets the curved marks on it, or is this when your mushroom
set starts to angle a bit and you end up with a curved ring the size of
a quarter around the rivet area.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Message 14
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=YTZPzlM5Y3vB4RkOasXZnryNV6MU5oAnaNjukay4f8I7F0lT1vykTZoULp9oEFF4o6+SCJRWURGbBat3gOU5LbU3kvfmP8nnTpXRDMtU1n4n1mvU3CB0DTubg6qmafO5IQyaiJ3clYguQqI6V99bhJx92Lbs6yrPsygak7/K3zc=
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| Subject: | Re: Duckworks lights - Is one HID enough? |
Hello, I saw your post on the list and wonder what it the cost for the install
kit without the hid? I want to build them into the wings now and add the hid's
later. Thanks Mark #167. Also do you take paypal or credit cards? Thanks again
"Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com> wrote:John,
I think a great solution is, as you mention, using the Van's RV-10 Tip Lights connected
to an alternating flash device, then using an HID in the left wing or
both wings to get maximum visibility for taxi/landing.
It seems like one would be enough, but some will want 2 HID. Since they draw so
little current (~3.5amps), 2 of them are less than a single 100W Halogen.
You could install one Round HID and one Round 100W halogen initially, and upgrading
to the second HID later would be a very easy task.
For those who want to locate and try some other lamp, we can supply an install
kit with a rectangular or round mount and all other hardware. Other than determining
how to get your lamp into our mount, this will save you a ton of effort
and ensure a clean installation.
The Duck
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Duckworks lights for the 10
As per your suggestion, I've decided to go with the standard wing tip lights for
the -10 to be used as flashers, with HID for taxi, etc. Do you suggest one
or two HID? I've not seen them in use.
John Jessen
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Subject: RV10-List: Duckworks lights for the 10
In case you all have not heard.
Dan Lloyd,
the new RV-10 kits are completed and ready for order now!
I don't have the website updated yet, but any orders I receive before the update
will be at the same prices as for the RV-4/6/7/8 kits.
We will carry the 55w, 100w, and HID for the RV-10, but once the website is updated
the HID will only be available thru Van's, with a small price increase, due
to the increased parts count in the new kits.
The 55w and 100w will continue to be available on our website for direct order.
Note that the kits are basically the same as for the other RVs, the primary difference
being an improved lens mounting method that will insure a tighter fit
to the skin, and eliminates holes in the lens which were an occasional source
of cracking.
Sincerely,
Duckworks
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