Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:55 AM - Re: Fuselage Wire Routing (Jack Sargeant)
2. 05:22 AM - Re: Fuselage Wire Routing (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
3. 05:48 AM - Re: Fuselage Wire Routing (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
4. 06:31 AM - wiring (David McNeill)
5. 06:40 AM - Re: wiring (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
6. 06:41 AM - Re: Switching to a 7A (Tim Olson)
7. 06:44 AM - Re: Countersinking Tank skins (Tim Olson)
8. 06:59 AM - Re: Countersinking Tank skins (Rick)
9. 07:18 AM - Quickbuild Fuse birth announcement (Tim Olson)
10. 07:57 AM - Shipping cost data point (Tim Olson)
11. 07:57 AM - Re: Fuselage Wire Routing (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
12. 08:26 AM - Re: Fuselage Wire Routing (Rick)
13. 08:29 AM - OT - what to do with politicians (Mani Ravee)
14. 08:49 AM - Re: oil filter mounting (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
15. 08:51 AM - Re: oil filter mounting (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
16. 08:52 AM - Re: Quickbuild Fuse birth announcement (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
17. 09:00 AM - OT - what do you do with politicians (Mani Ravee)
18. 11:01 AM - Re: Quickbuild Fuse birth announcement (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
19. 06:26 PM - Re: W&B (Tim Olson)
20. 06:50 PM - Re: Duckworks lights - Pricing? (Wentz, Don)
21. 07:09 PM - Re: wiring (DejaVu)
22. 07:33 PM - Re: wiring (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
23. 07:39 PM - RV-10 Engine choices (Bill and Tami Britton)
24. 07:58 PM - Re: Fuselage Wire Routing (Bill Schlatterer)
25. 08:12 PM - Q-Build Kit 4 Sale (Ersandall@aol.com)
26. 08:13 PM - Re: RV-10 Engine choices (AI Nut)
27. 08:35 PM - Re: RV-10 Engine choices (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
28. 08:44 PM - Re: Pre-oiler? (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
29. 08:53 PM - Randy #006 latest photos are up (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fuselage Wire Routing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jack Sargeant" <k5wiv@amsat.org>
Bob's site is very good. You might also want to order his book.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/
Jack Sargeant
1127 Patricia St.
Wichita, KS 67208-2642
316/683-5268
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage Wire Routing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We made the right side closeout panel in the baggage compartment removeable
with nut plates and plan to run all our wiring through there. The conduit
is also a great way to do it in areas that are closed out. We ran conduit
in the wings for wiring runs with a break in the pipe at the inspection
cover(s).
We are just now starting the wiring, which is a daunting task, especially
doing this type of thing for the first time. We are getting a number of
wiring harnesses for specific equipment, but will do all the connecting and
runs to antennas, lights, etc on our own. Any guidance in this area would
be greatly appreciated. If anybody knows of a website that kind of lays out
the procedure for selecting wire sizes, breaker sizes, bus bar stuff, etc,
that would be perfect.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Wire Routing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I finally got a little time in the shop and got the tailcone attached to the
main cabin. How are folks routing cables from the tailcone to the front of
the plane? It looks like some may have to run below the baggage floor and
possible below the rear seat bottoms before transitioning to the side
channels. Any pictures from Randy, Scott or others?
Bob #40105
Message 2
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| Subject: | Fuselage Wire Routing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Thanks - I'm going to be out of town for the next couple of days but would appreciate
seeing them when you get time.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage Wire Routing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I drilled out some tooling holes in the rear baggage floor bulkhead and put conduit
from there to the holes just outboard of the rear passenger foot well. I
have the photos at home and not with me. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Wire Routing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I finally got a little time in the shop and got the tailcone attached to the main
cabin. How are folks routing cables from the tailcone to the front of the
plane? It looks like some may have to run below the baggage floor and possible
below the rear seat bottoms before transitioning to the side channels. Any
pictures from Randy, Scott or others?
Bob #40105
Message 3
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| Subject: | Fuselage Wire Routing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Anh,
Thanks, I'll take a look tonight or when I get back from a trip in a couple days.
I wanted to ask the question though before deciding on my own routing just
in case somebody had run across a "gotcha".
Do Not Archive
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Wire Routing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@mail.ameritel.net>
They give you one hole on each side at the bulkhead where the rear seat
backs are. I enlarged those and also drilled two extra holes in the O/B
most ribs under the rear seats since there are no lightening holes in those.
I can then run two conduits on each side starting from the tailcone, under
the baggage area, one conduit goes through the hole that they give you and
up to the side channel, the other goes under the rear seat then through the
extra hole in the rear seat rib and up the side channel. Van's OK'ed all of
course. They also suggested to route wires in the the tunnel and use Adel
clamps every so often but I didn't take this route. I also ran one conduit
each from under the pilot and copilot seats, under the floor panels, and up
the lower engine mounting bolt access covers.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage Wire Routing
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> I drilled out some tooling holes in the rear baggage floor bulkhead and
put conduit from there to the holes just outboard of the rear passenger foot
well. I have the photos at home and not with me. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
> (US SSA)
> Sent: Monday, April 25, 2005 11:52 AM
> To: RV-10 List (E-mail)
> Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Wire Routing
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I finally got a little time in the shop and got the tailcone attached to
the main cabin. How are folks routing cables from the tailcone to the front
of the plane? It looks like some may have to run below the baggage floor
and possible below the rear seat bottoms before transitioning to the side
channels. Any pictures from Randy, Scott or others?
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
Message 4
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I got my QB fuselage about two weeks ago and am currently planning the wiring.
Having wired an all electric Glastar with a successful smoke test (everything
works and no smoke) I have learned something about it.
First decision is whether it will/should be easy to disconnect the wings after
construction, if so then you want bulkhead connectors and quick disconnects. My
10 will have AMP connectors that will have twist on/off connectors for the wing
bundles. Wing bundles including NL,LL,Strobes,heated pitot,AOA in the left
wing will come into the fuselage aft of the main and through the lightening holes
in the left side panel forward to the buss bar. Where necessary wiring will
be secured with click bond studs for Adel clamps. The right wing will be similarly
routed except that the TT AP harness and NAV wingtip antenna will be routed
through the other lightening.
Flap motor , fuel boost pump, and fuel flow transducer wiring will go into the
center channel again secured with adel clamps and click bond studs.
Static air is in the rear fuselage and will stay there, pitot air is being routed
aft via the left side panel under the baggage area. AHRS and ADC etc. will
be located in the tailcone. Electric trim harness will be routed with the other
AHRS and computer wiring forward along the right side panels. In the second
set of lightening holes. I will be installing a generalized bundle of awg 20 wiring
of both shielded and unshielded and will assign them as needed when wiring
the avionics. Lastly aft starting cable and aft master switch ground will be
routed under the baggage area in the left side lower holes.
A couple of tips (1) always check continuity of any wiring installed. Quite a bummer
to find that after everything is assembled that a bad wire or connection
causes finding and fixing a bad connection. (2) Be aware that heavy/changing
currents in these wires can induced currents into adjacent wiring and cause big
and very difficult problems to fix. Make sure that you ground the shields to
the airframe where appropriate. I have heard of a Seawind here that cause the
VOR indicators to flag on each COM transmission.
The explanation has been a bit lengthy; anyone wishing to discuss email me offline
and arrange to telephone.
Message 5
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Wouldn't you want your AHRS a little closer to your nominal center of gravity?
I wonder if any "tail waggle" would annoy the AHRS . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: RV10-List: wiring
I got my QB fuselage about two weeks ago and am currently planning the wiring.
Having wired an all electric Glastar with a successful smoke test (everything
works and no smoke) I have learned something about it.
First decision is whether it will/should be easy to disconnect the wings after
construction, if so then you want bulkhead connectors and quick disconnects. My
10 will have AMP connectors that will have twist on/off connectors for the wing
bundles. Wing bundles including NL,LL,Strobes,heated pitot,AOA in the left
wing will come into the fuselage aft of the main and through the lightening holes
in the left side panel forward to the buss bar. Where necessary wiring will
be secured with click bond studs for Adel clamps. The right wing will be similarly
routed except that the TT AP harness and NAV wingtip antenna will be routed
through the other lightening.
Flap motor , fuel boost pump, and fuel flow transducer wiring will go into the
center channel again secured with adel clamps and click bond studs.
Static air is in the rear fuselage and will stay there, pitot air is being routed
aft via the left side panel under the baggage area. AHRS and ADC etc. will
be located in the tailcone. Electric trim harness will be routed with the other
AHRS and computer wiring forward along the right side panels. In the second
set of lightening holes. I will be installing a generalized bundle of awg 20 wiring
of both shielded and unshielded and will assign them as needed when wiring
the avionics. Lastly aft starting cable and aft master switch ground will be
routed under the baggage area in the left side lower holes.
A couple of tips (1) always check continuity of any wiring installed. Quite a bummer
to find that after everything is assembled that a bad wire or connection
causes finding and fixing a bad connection. (2) Be aware that heavy/changing
currents in these wires can induced currents into adjacent wiring and cause big
and very difficult problems to fix. Make sure that you ground the shields to
the airframe where appropriate. I have heard of a Seawind here that cause the
VOR indicators to flag on each COM transmission.
The explanation has been a bit lengthy; anyone wishing to discuss email me offline
and arrange to telephone.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Switching to a 7A |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey Paul, sorry to see you go from the -10, but hey, you're
still "family" since you're going to the -7. :) Your reasons
are why when we get new inquiries on the list, I'm not
one of those 100% "Yeah, do it!" kind of guys. It's best to
fully, realistically, and honestly, evaluate your flying plans,
your current cash situation, and the ongoing costs. The -10
is NOT going to be a cheap bird, especially with the majority
of the being full-IFR X/C cruisers. I think you're doing the
right thing for your situation...and you're right, you can
always build a -10 later.
Now, that said, I'll warn you on one thing...since you don't already
have the kids and wife, you may as well get a glimpse of the future.
IF...you marry a girl who doesn't ever want to fly, you're probably
going to just have a stressful situation on your hands. May as well
make that a requirement for being Mrs. Folbrecht. And, if you end
up having a couple of kids, what you'll probably really find out
is that you just don't go flying as much anymore....unless you take
the WHOLE family. Kids and wifes take a lot of time. It's easy to
go from being a 200hr/yr pilot to a 45 hr/yr pilot, just get married
and have kids. And, when you're flying all the way from Wisconsin
to Florida to see Mickey Mouse, let me assure you that 130kts isn't
"so bad", and it's even do-able....but, if you're going to fly there
with kids that are the ages of mine (We did trips at age 1.5/3.5 and
2.9/5) after flying a -7, you absolutely won't be happy to do that
trip in that 172 RG. My #1 reason for building the -10 is that we
plan to see the U.S. with it, and I know how kids having a bad
day can make that trip more stressful when it gets to be a long
day. You want a plane that can fly fast, fly high enough to get
out of the bumps, and seat the whole family. These days I really
only get to fly for 2 reasons....#1 to travel with all 4 seats
filled, and #2 to practice approaches with other pilot buddies.
So, go start the -7A, and enjoy the flying much sooner. That
will give you time to get that plane completed and once
you meet the new Mrs. F, (if she has that biological clock ticking)
you can get started on your empennage and wing kit for the -10
and be ahead of the game for when you need the seats. Both my
kids were flying on trips at 5 weeks old or younger. It's
been a fun ride!
Glad you're not leaving the list...
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Paul Folbrecht wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht
> <paul.folbrecht@veribox.net>
>
> Well, folks, I'm afraid I have some terrible news: I'm not going to
> build an RV-10. At least, not now. I'm going to build an RV-7A
> instead, quickbuild. My order (I had ordered and prepaid -10 tail &
> wing kits) has been switched at Van's - they didn't charge me any fee at
> all.
>
> Ok, on to the long-winded "why". It is mainly an economic decision,
> together with me doing some hard & serious analysis of the flying I'm
> likely to be doing for the next 10+ years. I believe that the majority
> of that flying, the solid majority, will be with 0..1 pax. A four
> seater would be wonderful in a perfect world (a Citation X would be even
> better, I guess), but I don't really need it.
>
> Economics: 1st is initial cost. While I can afford the $115K I would
> likely have into the 10, and planned to build it with no financing, I
> was never quite sure that I wanted to invest that much cash in to what I
> see as a "luxury" item. I can build a *quickbuild* 7A with equivalent
> panel for an easy $25K less than the slow-build 10 I planned: $9K
> savings on the kit, $12K+ on the engine, and $4K+ on the prop (I will do
> metal fixed pitch on the 7. FP is not really an option on the 10). I
> will also have a completed airplane in probably not much more than half
> the time a slow-build 10 would take.
>
> The main part of the economics question, though, is operating cost. I
> know I can easily cruise at 6 gph with a FI 360, with a 540 sucking at
> least 50% more fuel best-case throttled back. I don't really want to
> pay that when I don't have those rear seats filled. Add about 50% more
> for the engine-overhaul fund as well and these are substantial figures
> when flying 200+ hours/year. How much these figures mean is a personal
> thing, obviously.
>
> As to the type of flying, I figure that even if I do marry a girl who
> loves to fly and have kids that like flying, those full-family trips are
> still going to be rare. As in once a month or less rare. For that, I
> can rent. I'm getting checked-out right now in a 172RG now with a
> Garmin 430 which is not a shabby bird at all, for a spam-can, IMHO. 130
> knots isn't so bad.
>
> I like to fly 2-3 times/week. I like to do the local fly-ins and
> breakfast trips and the like, as well as just buzzing around, and
> practicing approaches too (nobody told me keeping IFR current is the
> challenging part of the rating). For all of this stuff, I'm going to be
> flying with 1 pax or by myself, at least most of the time, 4 seats or no.
>
> For you guys that are building 10s for all the right reasons, awesome.
> I may very well do it some day myself.. just not now. I do have a
> feeling that this building thing is going to get its hooks in me, and
> I'm going to want to do another one before I croak. I'm in my early 30s
> now and will have plenty of time.
>
> I am going to continue to subscribe to this list because you guys are
> awesome - there are so many very knowledgeable people here, and a great
> deal of what's discussed is applicable to any RV. Sides, an RV is an
> RV, and we're all brothers, right?!
>
> Later,
> ~Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Countersinking Tank skins |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Right or wrong, my procedure to do countersunk holes is this:
Final drill, deburr, countersink....then you're done. If you don't
final drill first, the countersink's nose doesn't fit the hole
well, and the countersunk hole is cleaner than the deburring that
you'd do on the top too...plus there won't be much material left
on the bottom.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
>
> Spent some time yesterday countersinking the tank skin to the baffle. All
> went well. Disassembled the tank and started deburring ALL holes per
> instructions - including the holes just countersunk. Noticed after
> deburring the bottom row of skin to baffle holes that the skin holes are
> enlarged during deburring. Anyone else experience this? For anyone not yet
> at this stage, I would recommend against deburring countersunk skin holes.
> Just give them a buff with some scothbright. I think there is just enough
> material for the rivet head to grip to, and combined with the added strength
> of the proseal at the baffle joint I hope the joint should be strong enough.
> Has anyone else made this mistake and had to use 1/8" rivets?
>
> cheers,
> Ron
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Countersinking Tank skins |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Ron,
I had the same thing and I looked a few other tanks and they were the same. I believe
that's the reason that you don't countersink every 10th hole so the clecos
can hold the baffle in place in better it's final position during riveting.
You should not have to deburr the back side of that countersink on the skin,
if the cutter the right depth the cutter will "just" get to the baffle and should
leave a clean edge on the back side of the skin. A wipe with a scotchbrite
pad to clean and roughen for proseal will take care of any tiny burrs. Tank
tip: make sure you use plenty of proseal on the inside corners by the 470 rivets
and end ribs, apply the proseal just like Vans says, just forward of the holes
in a 3/16" bead. It worked out perfect for me, if you look inside with flashlight
after they are sealed you can see how the baffle rolled the seal into
a nice bead right up against the skin and baffle.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 9
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| Subject: | Quickbuild Fuse birth announcement |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
My QB fuse finishing kit (and replacement wingtip) showed
up 2 days early (or 1 day late depending on which person I quote)
last night. I didn't have much help available, only 2 of us plus
the dock guy to get them loaded, and even less to unload.
But, it went fairly well. I only had them shipped to the local
freight dock.
Everything came out OK so far, except I wasn't happy about
the way they were loaded on the truck from chicago. The workmanship
of the fuse appears to be very very good....probably better than
I would have managed.
If you want to check out some preliminary pics, read the write-up
on it, or see the sizes and weights involved, here's a link:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050425/index.html
I think I was originally given specs on the crate sizes that
were off a bit in length....also, the specs that I had been given
before showed that the largest box was not the heaviest...this
is NOT the case in reality.
Anyway, enjoy! That puts me back on the active builder status.
Too bad I lost a couple months, but I'll be hitting it hard now.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 10
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| Subject: | Shipping cost data point |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I forgot to mention.....the shipping cost for all 3 crates (QB Fuse and
Finishing Kit) to Wisconsin was $1502.19
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 11
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| Subject: | Fuselage Wire Routing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Andrea Eckhart" <AndreaE@lancair-kits.com>
You can always ask an avionic tech at Lancair avionics, me, via e-mail.
. . . andreae@lancair-kits.com
I have only built one RV panel so far, but I hope to make more.
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage Wire Routing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We made the right side closeout panel in the baggage compartment
removeable with nut plates and plan to run all our wiring through there.
The conduit is also a great way to do it in areas that are closed out.
We ran conduit in the wings for wiring runs with a break in the pipe at
the inspection cover(s).
We are just now starting the wiring, which is a daunting task,
especially doing this type of thing for the first time. We are getting
a number of wiring harnesses for specific equipment, but will do all the
connecting and runs to antennas, lights, etc on our own. Any guidance
in this area would be greatly appreciated. If anybody knows of a
website that kind of lays out the procedure for selecting wire sizes,
breaker sizes, bus bar stuff, etc, that would be perfect.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US
SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Wire Routing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I finally got a little time in the shop and got the tailcone attached to
the main cabin. How are folks routing cables from the tailcone to the
front of the plane? It looks like some may have to run below the
baggage floor and possible below the rear seat bottoms before
transitioning to the side channels. Any pictures from Randy, Scott or
others?
Bob #40105
Message 12
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| Subject: | Fuselage Wire Routing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Wow,
Great offer for you to make by providing your expertise, and you might just be
adding my panel to your list of RV-10's you have built as well. It all depends
if I can get real good with these crimpers I picked up at Pep Boys, they should
work good on avionics connectors, they even strip and cut the wire too!!! :D
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 13
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| Subject: | OT - what to do with politicians |
I did not include all of the story. So here it is:
Free Wx Under Threat...
Making Users Pay
The National Weather Service <http://www.nws.noaa.gov> (NWS) would be
restricted from offering any products to the public that are or could be
provided by the commercial weather industry, under legislation introduced in
the U.S. Senate recently by Sen. Rick Santorum
<http://santorum.senate.gov/public/index.cfm?FuseAction=PressOffice.View&Con
tentRecord_id=1180&CFID=11501317&CFTOKEN=83234716> (R-Pa.). The "National
Weather Services Duties Act of 2005
<http://frwebgate.access.gpo.gov/cgi-bin/getdoc.cgi?dbname=109_cong_bills&do
cid=f:s786is.txt.pdf> " would "modernize the description of the National
Weather Service's roles within the national weather enterprise," Santorum
said, and essentially it would yank the popular NWS Web site off the
Internet. The bill already has attracted opposition among those who value
NWS products. "The weather service proved so instrumental and popular and
helpful in the wake of the hurricanes. How can you make an argument that we
should pull it off the Net now?" said Dan McLaughlin, spokesman for Sen.
Bill Nelson, (D-Fla.), in The Palm Beach Post
<http://www.palmbeachpost.com/news/content/news/epaper/2005/04/21/m1a_wx_042
1.html> . "What are you going to do, charge hurricane victims to go online,
or give them a pop-up ad?"
...As Providers Seek Payment For Service
The effort seems to be driven by the NWS's recently revamped Web site, which
makes weather data more easily available. AccuWeather, a private weather
provider based in Pennsylvania, has been critical of the NWS and supportive
of the bill to change it. AccuWeather spokesman Barry Myers told the Post
the bill would improve public safety by making the weather service devote
its efforts to hurricanes, tsunamis and other dangers, rather than
duplicating products already available from the private sector. But NWS
spokesman Ed Johnson said it doesn't work that way. "If someone claims that
our core mission is just warning the public of hazardous conditions, that's
really impossible unless we forecast the weather all the time. You don't
just plug in your clock when you want to know what time it is."
This is cut and pasted from the AV web.
Message 14
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| Subject: | oil filter mounting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Anybody using one of those fancy aftermarket oil filter adaptors, or is the plenty
of space for a conventional one?
TDT
40025
Message 15
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| Subject: | oil filter mounting |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Plenty of space for the std. one. Randy
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: oil filter mounting
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Anybody using one of those fancy aftermarket oil filter adaptors, or is the plenty
of space for a conventional one?
TDT
40025
Message 16
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| Subject: | Quickbuild Fuse birth announcement |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Congratulations - you are probably now close to my level of completion without
the extra deburring and dimpling!
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Quickbuild Fuse birth announcement
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
My QB fuse finishing kit (and replacement wingtip) showed
up 2 days early (or 1 day late depending on which person I quote)
last night. I didn't have much help available, only 2 of us plus
the dock guy to get them loaded, and even less to unload.
But, it went fairly well. I only had them shipped to the local
freight dock.
Everything came out OK so far, except I wasn't happy about
the way they were loaded on the truck from chicago. The workmanship
of the fuse appears to be very very good....probably better than
I would have managed.
If you want to check out some preliminary pics, read the write-up
on it, or see the sizes and weights involved, here's a link:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050425/index.html
I think I was originally given specs on the crate sizes that
were off a bit in length....also, the specs that I had been given
before showed that the largest box was not the heaviest...this
is NOT the case in reality.
Anyway, enjoy! That puts me back on the active builder status.
Too bad I lost a couple months, but I'll be hitting it hard now.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 17
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| Subject: | OT - what do you do with politicians |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Just came across this and was wondering if all of you had caught this. I cut
and pasted this from AV web. Mani. Do not archive.
Free Wx Under Threat...
Making Users Pay
The National Weather Service (NWS) would be restricted from offering any
products to the public that are or could be provided by the commercial
weather industry, under legislation introduced in the U.S. Senate recently
by Sen. Rick Santorum (R-Pa.). The "National Weather Services Duties Act of
2005" would "modernize the description of the National Weather Service's
roles within the national weather enterprise," Santorum said, and
essentially it would yank the popular NWS Web site off the Internet. The
bill already has attracted opposition among those who value NWS products.
"The weather service proved so instrumental and popular and helpful in the
wake of the hurricanes. How can you make an argument that we should pull it
off the Net now?" said Dan McLaughlin, spokesman for Sen. Bill Nelson,
(D-Fla.), in The Palm Beach Post. "What are you going to do, charge
hurricane victims to go online, or give them a pop-up ad?"
Message 18
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| Subject: | Quickbuild Fuse birth announcement |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
No offense Tim but the smiles on Andrea - Colleen & Danielle seemed to
exceed even yours.
John
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Quickbuild Fuse birth announcement
If you want to check out some preliminary pics, read the write-up
on it, or see the sizes and weights involved, here's a link:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050425/index.html
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 19
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey, now that I have my QB Fuse and finishing kit, I decided to take the
night off and get this W&B scanned in to help fill that request.
Tim, don't say I never done nuthin' for ya. ;)
The W&B stuff for the RV-10 is available on my Tips page for now:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/index.html
Don't trust the numbers 100%, but wait for your own papers to come.
This was scanned in and fed thru OCR, and into OpenOffice 1.9.5 to be
converted to a .PDF It came out very respectable, but I wouldn't
trust that every character came out perfect.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 20
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| Subject: | Duckworks lights - Pricing? |
Bill,
please send specific Duckworks questions to Duckworks@yahoo.com.
thx!
dw
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill McCoy
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Duckworks lights - Is one HID enough?
Hello, I saw your post on the list and wonder what it the cost for the
install kit without the hid? I want to build them into the wings now and
add the hid's later. Thanks Mark #167. Also do you take paypal or credit
cards? Thanks again
Message 21
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Many have installed it out on the wing tips. You would think the same effect happens
there but I have not heard of any ill results.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: wiring
Wouldn't you want your AHRS a little closer to your nominal center of gravity?
I wonder if any "tail waggle" would annoy the AHRS . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 9:29 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: wiring
I got my QB fuselage about two weeks ago and am currently planning the wiring.
Having wired an all electric Glastar with a successful smoke test (everything
works and no smoke) I have learned something about it.
First decision is whether it will/should be easy to disconnect the wings after
construction, if so then you want bulkhead connectors and quick disconnects.
My 10 will have AMP connectors that will have twist on/off connectors for the
wing bundles. Wing bundles including NL,LL,Strobes,heated pitot,AOA in the
left wing will come into the fuselage aft of the main and through the lightening
holes in the left side panel forward to the buss bar. Where necessary wiring
will be secured with click bond studs for Adel clamps. The right wing will be
similarly routed except that the TT AP harness and NAV wingtip antenna will
be routed through the other lightening.
Flap motor , fuel boost pump, and fuel flow transducer wiring will go into
the center channel again secured with adel clamps and click bond studs.
Static air is in the rear fuselage and will stay there, pitot air is being
routed aft via the left side panel under the baggage area. AHRS and ADC etc. will
be located in the tailcone. Electric trim harness will be routed with the
other AHRS and computer wiring forward along the right side panels. In the second
set of lightening holes. I will be installing a generalized bundle of awg
20 wiring of both shielded and unshielded and will assign them as needed when
wiring the avionics. Lastly aft starting cable and aft master switch ground will
be routed under the baggage area in the left side lower holes.
A couple of tips (1) always check continuity of any wiring installed. Quite
a bummer to find that after everything is assembled that a bad wire or connection
causes finding and fixing a bad connection. (2) Be aware that heavy/changing
currents in these wires can induced currents into adjacent wiring and cause
big and very difficult problems to fix. Make sure that you ground the shields
to the airframe where appropriate. I have heard of a Seawind here that cause
the VOR indicators to flag on each COM transmission.
The explanation has been a bit lengthy; anyone wishing to discuss email me
offline and arrange to telephone.
Message 22
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Interesting. I'm putting mine right behind the panel . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: wiring
Many have installed it out on the wing tips. You would think the same effect happens
there but I have not heard of any ill results.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend <mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: wiring
Wouldn't you want your AHRS a little closer to your nominal center of gravity?
I wonder if any "tail waggle" would annoy the AHRS . . .
TDT
=09
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 9:29 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: wiring
=09
=09
I got my QB fuselage about two weeks ago and am currently planning
the wiring. Having wired an all electric Glastar with a successful smoke test
(everything works and no smoke) I have learned something about it.
First decision is whether it will/should be easy to disconnect
the wings after construction, if so then you want bulkhead connectors and quick
disconnects. My 10 will have AMP connectors that will have twist on/off connectors
for the wing bundles. Wing bundles including NL,LL,Strobes,heated pitot,AOA
in the left wing will come into the fuselage aft of the main and through
the lightening holes in the left side panel forward to the buss bar. Where necessary
wiring will be secured with click bond studs for Adel clamps. The right
wing will be similarly routed except that the TT AP harness and NAV wingtip antenna
will be routed through the other lightening.
Flap motor , fuel boost pump, and fuel flow transducer wiring will
go into the center channel again secured with adel clamps and click bond studs.
Static air is in the rear fuselage and will stay there, pitot air
is being routed aft via the left side panel under the baggage area. AHRS and
ADC etc. will be located in the tailcone. Electric trim harness will be routed
with the other AHRS and computer wiring forward along the right side panels.
In the second set of lightening holes. I will be installing a generalized bundle
of awg 20 wiring of both shielded and unshielded and will assign them as
needed when wiring the avionics. Lastly aft starting cable and aft master switch
ground will be routed under the baggage area in the left side lower holes.
A couple of tips (1) always check continuity of any wiring installed.
Quite a bummer to find that after everything is assembled that a bad wire
or connection causes finding and fixing a bad connection. (2) Be aware that
heavy/changing currents in these wires can induced currents into adjacent wiring
and cause big and very difficult problems to fix. Make sure that you ground
the shields to the airframe where appropriate. I have heard of a Seawind here
that cause the VOR indicators to flag on each COM transmission.
The explanation has been a bit lengthy; anyone wishing to discuss
email me offline and arrange to telephone.
Message 23
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| Subject: | RV-10 Engine choices |
spamd4.ruraltel.net
* -2.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_8 Message came from 65.167.220-223.x network
I know this whole engine choice thing has already been hashed over, but I have
to wonder if anybody has given any thought to the 245-255 HP Subaru H-6 that Jan
Eggenfellner is supposedly working on. I was completely sold on the Egg motors
when I was going to build a -7. Then I switched to a -10 and unfortunately
none of his motors that he currently produces are in the HP range I'm looking
for. Earlier this year he stated that he thought they'd be releasing them
in late 2005. However, I've not heard anything else about them since then. Perhaps
some of you guys that made it to Sun'n'Fun might have seen or heard something
related to this engine???
I know that there are those of you who only believe that Lycomings or Continentals
are the only engines that should be used in planes but I have several reasons
why I'd use the H-6 package if it looks good.
I suppose in the end I'll probably end up with an (I)0-540 but just curious what
others are thinking on the whole alternative engine thing.
Also, I'm very interested in the Deltahawk, but they need to get their stuff together
pretty quick because I think they require different venting in the tank.
(Not to mention a larger fill hole and cap to accomodate the larger nozzles
that most JetA pumps have) Any other thoughts on this???
Thanks,
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
VERRRRRYYY Slowly riveting HS
Message 24
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| Subject: | Fuselage Wire Routing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Go here, get the book, answers to questions you haven't even thought of ;o)
Read it and you will know enough to ask the right questions.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/
Bill S
7a Ark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuselage Wire Routing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
We made the right side closeout panel in the baggage compartment removeable
with nut plates and plan to run all our wiring through there. The conduit
is also a great way to do it in areas that are closed out. We ran conduit
in the wings for wiring runs with a break in the pipe at the inspection
cover(s).
We are just now starting the wiring, which is a daunting task, especially
doing this type of thing for the first time. We are getting a number of
wiring harnesses for specific equipment, but will do all the connecting and
runs to antennas, lights, etc on our own. Any guidance in this area would
be greatly appreciated. If anybody knows of a website that kind of lays out
the procedure for selecting wire sizes, breaker sizes, bus bar stuff, etc,
that would be perfect.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Wire Routing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I finally got a little time in the shop and got the tailcone attached to the
main cabin. How are folks routing cables from the tailcone to the front of
the plane? It looks like some may have to run below the baggage floor and
possible below the rear seat bottoms before transitioning to the side
channels. Any pictures from Randy, Scott or others?
Bob #40105
Message 25
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| Subject: | Q-Build Kit 4 Sale |
Hi All,
I am forced to sell my RV-10 QB Kit #40148. I have developed AIDS (aircraft
induced divorce syndrome) and either the -10 goes, the -8 goes or I go.
So, the tail/cone is complete through primer (good workmanship), the wings
are in the hanger (uncrated, inventoried and untouched), the fuselage is in the
process of being shipped from Van's. Barb has told me that the finish kit
would be available to me by mid August, 05. I have not ordered it yet.
Price is $33,000. Location is French Valley airport in Temecula, CA. Great way
to get started quick!
If anyone is interested call me at 760-505-9701 and I will return all calls.
Evan Sandall
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Engine choices |
--> RV10-List message posted by: AI Nut <ainut@hiwaay.net>
You might want to look into the Chevy LS1/6/7 engines. May not even
need a PSRU.
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> I know this whole engine choice thing has already been hashed over,
> but I have to wonder if anybody has given any thought to the 245-255
> HP Subaru H-6 that Jan Eggenfellner is supposedly working on. I was
> completely sold on the Egg motors when I was going to build a -7.
> Then I switched to a -10 and unfortunately none of his motors that he
> currently produces are in the HP range I'm looking for. Earlier this
> year he stated that he thought they'd be releasing them in late 2005.
> However, I've not heard anything else about them since then. Perhaps
> some of you guys that made it to Sun'n'Fun might have seen or heard
> something related to this engine???
>
> I know that there are those of you who only believe that Lycomings or
> Continentals are the only engines that should be used in planes but I
> have several reasons why I'd use the H-6 package if it looks good.
>
> I suppose in the end I'll probably end up with an (I)0-540 but just
> curious what others are thinking on the whole alternative engine thing.
>
> Also, I'm very interested in the Deltahawk, but they need to get their
> stuff together pretty quick because I think they require different
> venting in the tank. (Not to mention a larger fill hole and cap to
> accomodate the larger nozzles that most JetA pumps have) Any other
> thoughts on this???
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Emp #40137
> VERRRRRYYY Slowly riveting HS
Message 27
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| Subject: | RV-10 Engine choices |
"That thing got a HEMI?"
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of AI Nut
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Engine choices
--> RV10-List message posted by: AI Nut <ainut@hiwaay.net>
You might want to look into the Chevy LS1/6/7 engines. May not even
need a PSRU.
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> I know this whole engine choice thing has already been hashed over,
> but I have to wonder if anybody has given any thought to the 245-255
> HP Subaru H-6 that Jan Eggenfellner is supposedly working on. I was
> completely sold on the Egg motors when I was going to build a -7.
> Then I switched to a -10 and unfortunately none of his motors that he
> currently produces are in the HP range I'm looking for. Earlier this
> year he stated that he thought they'd be releasing them in late 2005.
> However, I've not heard anything else about them since then. Perhaps
> some of you guys that made it to Sun'n'Fun might have seen or heard
> something related to this engine???
>
> I know that there are those of you who only believe that Lycomings or
> Continentals are the only engines that should be used in planes but I
> have several reasons why I'd use the H-6 package if it looks good.
>
> I suppose in the end I'll probably end up with an (I)0-540 but just
> curious what others are thinking on the whole alternative engine thing.
>
> Also, I'm very interested in the Deltahawk, but they need to get their
> stuff together pretty quick because I think they require different
> venting in the tank. (Not to mention a larger fill hole and cap to
> accomodate the larger nozzles that most JetA pumps have) Any other
> thoughts on this???
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Emp #40137
> VERRRRRYYY Slowly riveting HS
Message 28
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What do folks think about having an engine per-oiler on their -10?
TDT
40025
Message 29
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| Subject: | Randy #006 latest photos are up |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I've got Randy's latest photos posted. The wings are now attached and
everything is really coming together. I've also moved his pics around
the site a bit, so some of the old links won't work. Here's a link
to his launch page:
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html
Enjoy the photos!
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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