Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:13 AM - Re: Missing wing spare rivet(s) (Mani Ravee)
2. 05:13 AM - Re: Missing wing spare rivet(s) (Tim Olson)
3. 07:20 AM - Getting Started on the QB Fuse (Tim Olson)
4. 11:22 AM - RV10 MT Propeller group buy (LessDragProd@AOL.COM)
5. 12:11 PM - Re: Getting Started on the QB Fuse (brian bollaert)
6. 01:19 PM - Re: Getting Started on the QB Fuse (Tim Olson)
7. 04:35 PM - Re: Getting Started on the QB Fuse (brian bollaert)
8. 06:38 PM - Re: Getting Started on the QB Fuse (Robin Wessel)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Missing wing spare rivet(s) |
Are you guys talking about QB wings?
Mani
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
Subject: RV10-List: Missing wing spare rivet(s)
I was finishing up riveting the top skins on my right wing and noticed a
missing rivet on the wing spare. I checked the same position on the left
wing and that hole was filled. Anyone else have this or any other missing
rivet(s)?
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/07Wings/wings89.html
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/07Wings/images/wings89.jpg
William Curtis
#40237
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Missing wing spare rivet(s) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I brought it up way back when I was doing my first steps of the wing
spar. I had holes filled with rivets that shouldn't have had them...
I think the ones that get the bolts for the tiedown or bellcrank
brackets. So I had to drill them out.
In your case, if you have a hole that should be filled, I'd suggest
sticking a bolt in it.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
William Curtis wrote:
> I was finishing up riveting the top skins on my right wing and noticed a
> missing rivet on the wing spare. I checked the same position on the left
> wing and that hole was filled. Anyone else have this or any other
> missing rivet(s)?
>
> http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/07Wings/wings89.html
> http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/07Wings/images/wings89.jpg
> William Curtis
> #40237
> http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Getting Started on the QB Fuse |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
So now that I've got this big QB fuse sitting in my garage, and things
are inventoried, I'm finding it hard to start. BTW: My QB Fuse also
did not include the front floor panels. Vans says they had about a
dozen QB Fuses slip out without those. My Finishing kit seems to be
complete, by my QB Fuse was missing 3 items marked as shipped. Didn't
yet inventory the contents of the hardware bags...just accounted for
the bags.
The QB Fuse comes with lots of temporary rivets in place. Should
I just pull every single one of those suckers right away?
Where in the plans is a good starting point?? Van's said, I believe,
to start at section 32 to 44. But, I find things like the 7.9mm hole
in the gear legs weren't drilled, and little things all throughout
the plans were not done. The catch is, you almost have to disassemble
some of it to really do a good inspection. I'm just worried that some
bolt holes aren't match-drilled, some dimples not done, and things
like that will hold me up. Any good starting suggestions?
How about that sidewall panel under the door area.... Mine came
with that panel installed with a handful of screws, but all the
wiring will run through there. I tried taking the screws out, but
that panel isn't very easy to pull. Any suggestions? I'm going to
pull conduit to the rear like Randy did. (Just added pics to his
area of the site with conduit routing) (Randy, if you get free
to call, I'd like to ask a couple of conduit questions)
How soon can I get that tailcone joined?
I'm just looking for some good tips on getting started. Being mostly
out of it for 2 months while waiting for it to show up is taking
it's toll, and being faced with a set of plans where "who knows what"
has been accomplished makes it daunting.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 4
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| Subject: | RV10 MT Propeller group buy |
Hi All,
I am going into Phase Two for the RV10 MT propeller group buy. This is
where I collect enough information from each customer to be able to correctly
place the order for their propeller.
If you are interested in being included, please provide your shipping
address, and phone number(s)?
If it is all right with you, I would like to call so we can discuss some of
the (no additional cost) propeller choices, and some of the shipping options
available.
BTW, Phase Three is where I ask for the money. This is when the actual
group buy can occur.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Custom Aircraft Propeller - A division of Less Drag Products, Inc.
_CustomACProp@aol.com_ (mailto:CustomACProp@aol.com)
(805) 795-5377
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Getting Started on the QB Fuse |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
Hi Tim:
I also found the starting point difficult ,called vans they said they want
you to read it all , and start where you need to . as far as the 7.9 mm bit
there engineers said that a 5/16 bit is ok if you can't easily find the
7.9mm.
I had to take the gear support legs out (and some of the seating structure )
also its easier to do the brake lines that way! to do the drilling for the
floor pan and thru the floor brace, i am also finding the fuel lines in the
tunnel (very chalenging) i may go with high quality flex line .
sounds like you recieved the same as me .
Randy is a real asset to this group
Brian Bollaert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Getting Started on the QB Fuse
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> So now that I've got this big QB fuse sitting in my garage, and things
> are inventoried, I'm finding it hard to start. BTW: My QB Fuse also
> did not include the front floor panels. Vans says they had about a
> dozen QB Fuses slip out without those. My Finishing kit seems to be
> complete, by my QB Fuse was missing 3 items marked as shipped. Didn't
> yet inventory the contents of the hardware bags...just accounted for
> the bags.
>
> The QB Fuse comes with lots of temporary rivets in place. Should
> I just pull every single one of those suckers right away?
>
> Where in the plans is a good starting point?? Van's said, I believe,
> to start at section 32 to 44. But, I find things like the 7.9mm hole
> in the gear legs weren't drilled, and little things all throughout
> the plans were not done. The catch is, you almost have to disassemble
> some of it to really do a good inspection. I'm just worried that some
> bolt holes aren't match-drilled, some dimples not done, and things
> like that will hold me up. Any good starting suggestions?
>
> How about that sidewall panel under the door area.... Mine came
> with that panel installed with a handful of screws, but all the
> wiring will run through there. I tried taking the screws out, but
> that panel isn't very easy to pull. Any suggestions? I'm going to
> pull conduit to the rear like Randy did. (Just added pics to his
> area of the site with conduit routing) (Randy, if you get free
> to call, I'd like to ask a couple of conduit questions)
>
> How soon can I get that tailcone joined?
>
> I'm just looking for some good tips on getting started. Being mostly
> out of it for 2 months while waiting for it to show up is taking
> it's toll, and being faced with a set of plans where "who knows what"
> has been accomplished makes it daunting.
>
> Tim
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Getting Started on the QB Fuse |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yeah, that's what they told me yesterday on the phone too. This a.m.
I grabbed the plans one page at a time and verified the completion of
most of it. I didn't read every line, but compared the pictures looking
for unfinished things. I did notice the line about how you could jump
to the brake installation, so I'm hoping to do that soon. I also
need to drill my front support of that gear leg attachement to the
ribs. Since I didn't have my floor skin, I'm thinking maybe I have to
have that first.
As far as the 7.9mm drilling, I lucked out and have a friend who has
a .311 and .3125 reamer, and I'm going over today to borrow them.
I should be able to do that top hole. I'm not sure if it's possible
for me to put the gear leg in and do the other hole too so that I
can return his tools, but if so, I might do that too.
I did also end up pulling all the temporary rivets on the floor panels
and removing the panels. I got into that sidewall too. I see that
they don't prime inside any of those areas....they just must spray the
completed fuselage....so I, being the primer type, might go back and
do that too.
One other disappointing skip was that they temporary riveted the
firewall in place, but they didn't do the step where you put a thin
layer of proseal between the firewall and skins. That is really
something I want to do to keep the weather, and carbon monoxide,
and everything else out of the cabin.
Oh, one other interesting BAD thing they did... While the quality
of workmanship is overall very good, they had a bolt through that
pipe that goes back by the entry steps that was too long. The bolt
was stuck through, and the nut run down all the way to the bottom
of the thereads, but get this....there was still about 1/4-1/2" of
UNTHREADED shank still outside the pipe, so the nut was that far from
being tightened down. I wonder what dimwit thought that THAT
was acceptable?
So far though, things are at least moving along again. Got the
tailcone out of the shed to get ready to mount soon.
Thanks for your reply, Brian!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
brian bollaert wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
> Hi Tim:
>
> I also found the starting point difficult ,called vans they said they want
> you to read it all , and start where you need to . as far as the 7.9 mm bit
> there engineers said that a 5/16 bit is ok if you can't easily find the
> 7.9mm.
> I had to take the gear support legs out (and some of the seating structure )
> also its easier to do the brake lines that way! to do the drilling for the
> floor pan and thru the floor brace, i am also finding the fuel lines in the
> tunnel (very chalenging) i may go with high quality flex line .
>
> sounds like you recieved the same as me .
>
> Randy is a real asset to this group
>
>
> Brian Bollaert
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 7:19 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Getting Started on the QB Fuse
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>So now that I've got this big QB fuse sitting in my garage, and things
>>are inventoried, I'm finding it hard to start. BTW: My QB Fuse also
>>did not include the front floor panels. Vans says they had about a
>>dozen QB Fuses slip out without those. My Finishing kit seems to be
>>complete, by my QB Fuse was missing 3 items marked as shipped. Didn't
>>yet inventory the contents of the hardware bags...just accounted for
>>the bags.
>>
>>The QB Fuse comes with lots of temporary rivets in place. Should
>>I just pull every single one of those suckers right away?
>>
>>Where in the plans is a good starting point?? Van's said, I believe,
>>to start at section 32 to 44. But, I find things like the 7.9mm hole
>>in the gear legs weren't drilled, and little things all throughout
>>the plans were not done. The catch is, you almost have to disassemble
>>some of it to really do a good inspection. I'm just worried that some
>>bolt holes aren't match-drilled, some dimples not done, and things
>>like that will hold me up. Any good starting suggestions?
>>
>>How about that sidewall panel under the door area.... Mine came
>>with that panel installed with a handful of screws, but all the
>>wiring will run through there. I tried taking the screws out, but
>>that panel isn't very easy to pull. Any suggestions? I'm going to
>>pull conduit to the rear like Randy did. (Just added pics to his
>>area of the site with conduit routing) (Randy, if you get free
>>to call, I'd like to ask a couple of conduit questions)
>>
>>How soon can I get that tailcone joined?
>>
>>I'm just looking for some good tips on getting started. Being mostly
>>out of it for 2 months while waiting for it to show up is taking
>>it's toll, and being faced with a set of plans where "who knows what"
>>has been accomplished makes it daunting.
>>
>>Tim
>>--
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>--
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Getting Started on the QB Fuse |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
Hi Tim:
yes indeed you will need the floor pans for that ! , you will also need to
put in the 2 nutplates in that are used to bolt the front leg of the gear
support , these holes need to be drilled in the rib support . We def got the
same qb type (oh well)
brian b
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Getting Started on the QB Fuse
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Yeah, that's what they told me yesterday on the phone too. This a.m.
> I grabbed the plans one page at a time and verified the completion of
> most of it. I didn't read every line, but compared the pictures looking
> for unfinished things. I did notice the line about how you could jump
> to the brake installation, so I'm hoping to do that soon. I also
> need to drill my front support of that gear leg attachement to the
> ribs. Since I didn't have my floor skin, I'm thinking maybe I have to
> have that first.
>
> As far as the 7.9mm drilling, I lucked out and have a friend who has
> a .311 and .3125 reamer, and I'm going over today to borrow them.
> I should be able to do that top hole. I'm not sure if it's possible
> for me to put the gear leg in and do the other hole too so that I
> can return his tools, but if so, I might do that too.
>
> I did also end up pulling all the temporary rivets on the floor panels
> and removing the panels. I got into that sidewall too. I see that
> they don't prime inside any of those areas....they just must spray the
> completed fuselage....so I, being the primer type, might go back and
> do that too.
>
> One other disappointing skip was that they temporary riveted the
> firewall in place, but they didn't do the step where you put a thin
> layer of proseal between the firewall and skins. That is really
> something I want to do to keep the weather, and carbon monoxide,
> and everything else out of the cabin.
>
> Oh, one other interesting BAD thing they did... While the quality
> of workmanship is overall very good, they had a bolt through that
> pipe that goes back by the entry steps that was too long. The bolt
> was stuck through, and the nut run down all the way to the bottom
> of the thereads, but get this....there was still about 1/4-1/2" of
> UNTHREADED shank still outside the pipe, so the nut was that far from
> being tightened down. I wonder what dimwit thought that THAT
> was acceptable?
>
> So far though, things are at least moving along again. Got the
> tailcone out of the shed to get ready to mount soon.
>
> Thanks for your reply, Brian!
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
>
> brian bollaert wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
<bbollaert@comcast.net>
> >
> > Hi Tim:
> >
> > I also found the starting point difficult ,called vans they said they
want
> > you to read it all , and start where you need to . as far as the 7.9 mm
bit
> > there engineers said that a 5/16 bit is ok if you can't easily find the
> > 7.9mm.
> > I had to take the gear support legs out (and some of the seating
structure )
> > also its easier to do the brake lines that way! to do the drilling for
the
> > floor pan and thru the floor brace, i am also finding the fuel lines in
the
> > tunnel (very chalenging) i may go with high quality flex line .
> >
> > sounds like you recieved the same as me .
> >
> > Randy is a real asset to this group
> >
> >
> > Brian Bollaert
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> > To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 7:19 AM
> > Subject: RV10-List: Getting Started on the QB Fuse
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >>
> >>So now that I've got this big QB fuse sitting in my garage, and things
> >>are inventoried, I'm finding it hard to start. BTW: My QB Fuse also
> >>did not include the front floor panels. Vans says they had about a
> >>dozen QB Fuses slip out without those. My Finishing kit seems to be
> >>complete, by my QB Fuse was missing 3 items marked as shipped. Didn't
> >>yet inventory the contents of the hardware bags...just accounted for
> >>the bags.
> >>
> >>The QB Fuse comes with lots of temporary rivets in place. Should
> >>I just pull every single one of those suckers right away?
> >>
> >>Where in the plans is a good starting point?? Van's said, I believe,
> >>to start at section 32 to 44. But, I find things like the 7.9mm hole
> >>in the gear legs weren't drilled, and little things all throughout
> >>the plans were not done. The catch is, you almost have to disassemble
> >>some of it to really do a good inspection. I'm just worried that some
> >>bolt holes aren't match-drilled, some dimples not done, and things
> >>like that will hold me up. Any good starting suggestions?
> >>
> >>How about that sidewall panel under the door area.... Mine came
> >>with that panel installed with a handful of screws, but all the
> >>wiring will run through there. I tried taking the screws out, but
> >>that panel isn't very easy to pull. Any suggestions? I'm going to
> >>pull conduit to the rear like Randy did. (Just added pics to his
> >>area of the site with conduit routing) (Randy, if you get free
> >>to call, I'd like to ask a couple of conduit questions)
> >>
> >>How soon can I get that tailcone joined?
> >>
> >>I'm just looking for some good tips on getting started. Being mostly
> >>out of it for 2 months while waiting for it to show up is taking
> >>it's toll, and being faced with a set of plans where "who knows what"
> >>has been accomplished makes it daunting.
> >>
> >>Tim
> >>--
> >>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> >>
> >>DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Getting Started on the QB Fuse |
1.72 MSGID_FROM_MTA_ID Message-Id for external message added locally
Regarding the QB fuse-
Anyone find that the front floor panels don't match up very well to the
F-1041 lower fuse channel? The rivet holes are so far off that it misses the
channel completely.
Any suggestions?
Another interesting tidbit I found in the manual is that it says for the
"standard kit only" to install the TG vents for the NACA slots in the front.
Does this mean that the QB builders must buy this part, but not the standard
kit builders?
Robin Wessel
Tigard, OR
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