Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:01 AM - Re: Missing wing spare rivet(s) (William Curtis)
2. 09:35 AM - Re: Re: Getting Started on the QB Fuse (brian bollaert)
3. 09:38 AM - Weight of Randy's RV610RV (Randy DeBauw)
4. 09:38 AM - RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight (Tim Olson)
5. 11:58 AM - Re: RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight (Sean Stephens)
6. 12:22 PM - Re: Weight of Randy's RV610RV (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
7. 04:01 PM - Re: Missing wing spare rivet(s) (McGANN, Ron)
8. 04:35 PM - Re: RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight (Randy DeBauw)
9. 04:46 PM - Re: RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight (Sean Stephens)
10. 06:29 PM - Starter solenoid location (LessDragProd@aol.com)
11. 06:31 PM - RV-10 Duckworks Light Kit Installed (Tim Olson)
12. 06:35 PM - Re: RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight (Randy DeBauw)
13. 06:49 PM - Re: Weight of Randy's RV610RV (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
14. 06:54 PM - Wing clecos (Darton Steve)
15. 07:23 PM - Re: Starter solenoid location (Stein Bruch)
16. 07:24 PM - Re: Wing clecos (Tim Olson)
17. 07:28 PM - Re: Weight of Randy's RV610RV (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim Dawson-Townsend)
18. 07:33 PM - Engine start today N610RV (Randy DeBauw)
19. 07:47 PM - Re: Wing clecos (Rick)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: Missing wing spare rivet(s) |
Mani,
No, these are the SB wings, between ribs 4 & 5.
Tim/Ahn,
Yes, I vaguely remember the discussion about having extra rivets, in my case however,
I have a missing rivet.
William
> Are you guys talking about QB wings?
> Mani
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of >William Curtis
>Subject: RV10-List: Missing wing spare rivet(s)
>
>
>I was finishing up riveting the top skins on my right wing and noticed a
>missing rivet on the wing spare. I checked the same position >on the left
>wing and that hole was filled. Anyone else have this or any other missing
>rivet(s)?
>http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/07Wings/wings89.html
>http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/07Wings/images/wings89.jpg
>William Curtis
>#40237
>http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Getting Started on the QB Fuse |
----- Hello Robin:
the floor panels are a real tight fit which i think is a good thing , mine are
also difficult to line up , however i am able to do it by starting in one corner
with the cleco's and work your way down the line (however without seeing
yours its diff to say for shure ), i believe the vents for the qb come in the
finish kit .
brian
Original Message -----
From: Robin Wessel
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 6:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Getting Started on the QB Fuse
Regarding the QB fuse-
Anyone find that the front floor panels don't match up very well to the F-1041
lower fuse channel? The rivet holes are so far off that it misses the channel
completely.
Any suggestions?
Another interesting tidbit I found in the manual is that it says for the "standard
kit only" to install the TG vents for the NACA slots in the front. Does
this mean that the QB builders must buy this part, but not the standard kit builders?
Robin Wessel
Tigard, OR
Message 3
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| Subject: | Weight of Randy's RV610RV |
Well the weight that everyone was interested in is... 1593 lbs. As pictured on www.myrv10.com under 40006. Very nice weight if I say so myself. Randy
Message 4
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| Subject: | RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi All,
Randy sent some new pictures that you'll definitely want to check out.
Man is this guy getting CLOSE!!
His RV-10 is now all weighed in and ready for flight. 1593 lbs, believe
it or not. Isn't that less than the factory demo, despite the
additional primer and stuff that he did?
Here's a link to his page. Check out the last link on it.
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Randy,
Does the 1593 include the ox tanks and the back seats? Just curious if
you'll be closer to the demo weight when all is said and done.
Sean
#40303
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Randy sent some new pictures that you'll definitely want to check out.
> Man is this guy getting CLOSE!!
>
> His RV-10 is now all weighed in and ready for flight. 1593 lbs, believe
> it or not. Isn't that less than the factory demo, despite the
> additional primer and stuff that he did?
>
> Here's a link to his page. Check out the last link on it.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Weight of Randy's RV610RV |
CONGRATULATIONS RANDY. A LOT OF US ENVY U. WE JUST STARTED A FEW WEEKS AGO.
GOOD LUCK ON THE FIRST FLIGHT AND HOPE U HAVE MANY HUNDREDS OF HOURS OF
PLEASURE FOR YOUR EFFORTS.
REGARDS,
DOUG PRESTON
RV7 N731RV
RV10 TAIL CONE.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Missing wing spare rivet(s) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
William,
I had precisely the same problem as Tim. If your problem was the same as
ours, you would not have been able to install the tie down because the tie
down bolt holes would have contained rivets. The holes on the opposite edge
that should have been rivetted were empty. Vans instructions to me were to
remove the incorrect rivets, and fill the unriveted holes with AN bolts.
I would suggest you just fill the hole with a bolt - stronger than a rivet
anyway :-).
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of William Curtis
Subject: RV10-List: Missing wing spare rivet(s)
I was finishing up riveting the top skins on my right wing and noticed a
missing rivet on the wing spare. I checked the same position on the left
wing and that hole was filled. Anyone else have this or any other missing
rivet(s)?
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/07Wings/wings89.html
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/07Wings/images/wings89.jpg
William Curtis
#40237
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/
Message 8
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| Subject: | RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight |
Everything except the ox tank. It will be installed after the fly off. It only
weighs about lbs.. Carbon fiber tank. Everything else was in just like you
would fly it. No wheel pants yet. I will reweigh it after but I am guessing that
the final weight will be about 1627. We will see. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Randy,
Does the 1593 include the ox tanks and the back seats? Just curious if
you'll be closer to the demo weight when all is said and done.
Sean
#40303
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Randy sent some new pictures that you'll definitely want to check out.
> Man is this guy getting CLOSE!!
>
> His RV-10 is now all weighed in and ready for flight. 1593 lbs, believe
> it or not. Isn't that less than the factory demo, despite the
> additional primer and stuff that he did?
>
> Here's a link to his page. Check out the last link on it.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Thanks Randy,
Carbon Fiber tanks? Sweet. Which Mountain High system did you get?
I also noticed in the pictures that it looks like you have a pair of
landing lights in each wingtip. You have one pair angled for taxi and
the other for landing?
The bird looks good. Thanks for being a pioneer ahead of us so our kits
are all the more better.
-Sean
#40303 (Waiting for wing kit to arrive)
Randy DeBauw wrote:
>Everything except the ox tank. It will be installed after the fly off. It only
weighs about lbs.. Carbon fiber tank. Everything else was in just like you
would fly it. No wheel pants yet. I will reweigh it after but I am guessing
that the final weight will be about 1627. We will see. Randy
>
>________________________________
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Sean Stephens
>Sent: Sun 5/8/2005 11:54 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
>Randy,
>
>Does the 1593 include the ox tanks and the back seats? Just curious if
>you'll be closer to the demo weight when all is said and done.
>
>Sean
>#40303
>
>Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>Hi All,
>>
>>Randy sent some new pictures that you'll definitely want to check out.
>> Man is this guy getting CLOSE!!
>>
>>His RV-10 is now all weighed in and ready for flight. 1593 lbs, believe
>>it or not. Isn't that less than the factory demo, despite the
>>additional primer and stuff that he did?
>>
>>Here's a link to his page. Check out the last link on it.
>>
>>http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>====================================
>====================================
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Starter solenoid location |
Hi All,
I have recently had the opportunity to disassembly the firewall forward
electrical wiring on a RV-6A and a RV-6.
In both installations, the starter solenoid was mounted on the front side of
the firewall.
In both cases, the large wire from the master solenoid going to the starter
solenoid was chaffing against the corner of an aluminum bracket. The wire
insulation was worn more than half way through to the copper wire. (48 hours
TT on one installation, and the copper was visible through the insulation.)
Please, take a little extra care with this large wire. With the master
switch on, it's always hot until it gets to the starter solenoid.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
PS I relocated the master and starter solenoids directly over the battery
box in my RV-6A. The starter wire going through the firewall is only hot when
the starter is engaged.
Message 11
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| Subject: | RV-10 Duckworks Light Kit Installed |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey all,
I hadn't had a chance to get the page all completed to post until now,
but I wanted to make sure you all get to see this bit of info. You're
gonna like this...
For those wanting to go right to the link, here you go:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/duckworksHIDS/index.html
After hearing my plea a couple months ago regarding better landing light
options for the RV-10, Don from Duckworks got a hold of an RV-10 and
designed a wing-leading-edge landing light kit for our RV-10's. That
REALLY made my day, because I had been adamant that I wanted HID's,
(really super bright, low power draw (3A) lights that have a normal
lifetime of something like 3000 hours...very durable) and now I had the
option to use either their rectangular, round aircraft standard or
halogen, or round HID's. Having seen Duckworks kits on other RV's over
the years, I was always really impressed with how good they looked.
As far as functionality goes too, I don't think these can be beat.
Sorry to those (Randy and others) who have those MR-16's in the
wingtips, but I really think those are not that fantastic. For one,
they sit on the back wall of the sheared tip, so they may not radiate
as well towards the centerline. As for power, they'll draw 75W each,
so you'll be pulling plenty of amps if you outfit your tips with
one or two on each side...and that light comes with a very high
heat also. They are cheap though, so they were pretty hard to beat
in that regard. In general though, with putting the Nav lights
and strobes into the tips too, I really didn't want those little
landing lights to be my main lighting...they'd make better wig-wags
or something else like that.
So once the Duckworks kit was available, that made up my mind as to
HOW I was going to mount them. I still didn't know what to do about
the bulbs. I wanted at least one HID, but they're pricey, so I didn't
know if I wanted 2. I shopped Ebay, and educated myself on the various
types of HID bulbs. I found out that the really good HID's are D1S
type bulbs....but most of what you see on Ebay is D2S (or R). The "R"
bulbs have a shielding that would cut some light output, so I knew
I wanted an "S". The D1 bulbs also have another big benefit for
us in aviation...the D2S has the bulb igniter in the ballast. The D1S
has the igniter in the bulb. The difference is that the D2S bulbs will
then at times have over 20Kv of signal going over that cable between
the bulb and the ballast....which can cause interference. So, not
wanting to sacrifice my radio's clarity, I decided D1S "Third
Generation" was the only way to go. When you limit yourself to
that option, there is no super low cost way to go. Bulbs and ballasts
will just be expensive. In fact, there is an aviation conversion
kit I found online to replace standard round bulbs with HIDs (the
SAME HIDs as Duckworks uses) for $535!! Duckworks HIDs were a
significantly better deal, considering that theirs came with all
the mounting stuff you'd need too! I was sold....rather than have
one high-power-draw bulb, and one nice efficient and super bright HID,
I'd just get 2 and have it all.
The understandably scary part of the duckworks kit was the idea of
having to cut a hole in the wing...especially with the wing completed.
But, this turned out to be a real non-issue. The completed wing
is nice and stiff, and cuts very easily...in fact, if I had my choice
I would rather install the kit after the leading edge was completed,
rather than do it when the skins weren't riveted up. Besides that,
the kit came with excellent templates with exactly...EXACTLY where
you want to cut. It also contained everything else you need to do
the install. As a bonus, they just redesigned the lens attachment
method to eliminate issues with cracking from drilling holes through
the lens. So, if you were looking for a landing light kit for your
RV-10, or actually any RV, you're really going to find that this kit
is a pretty easy install.
As far as benefits... I think that if you mounted them in the
wheel pants, you'd get much more vibration upon landing. You also
want your lights out way towards the tips, so you don't get the
strobe effect of the light on your prop. And, with the nice
full-size lights mounted in these areas of the wing, you can aim
them to get the light exactly where you want it.
So, I was really impressed, and I decided that I'd try to ease some of
the worry about cutting wing holes and throw together a page that
showed the install. It was my first time with these kits, so
I'm no pro.
That link again: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/duckworksHIDS/index.html
Oh, and even if you can't put the cash into HID's, you can buy the
kit very cheaply with standard rectangular or round bulbs, and upgrade
to the HIDs later using the same mounting.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 12
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| Subject: | RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight |
EDS 4ip. Yes I have one of them set for landing and the other for taxi all on
the same 3 position switch. I finish my third and last hour in the 410RV last
week. You are going to love your plane. What a great plane it is to fly. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Thanks Randy,
Carbon Fiber tanks? Sweet. Which Mountain High system did you get?
I also noticed in the pictures that it looks like you have a pair of
landing lights in each wingtip. You have one pair angled for taxi and
the other for landing?
The bird looks good. Thanks for being a pioneer ahead of us so our kits
are all the more better.
-Sean
#40303 (Waiting for wing kit to arrive)
Randy DeBauw wrote:
>Everything except the ox tank. It will be installed after the fly off. It only
weighs about lbs.. Carbon fiber tank. Everything else was in just like you
would fly it. No wheel pants yet. I will reweigh it after but I am guessing
that the final weight will be about 1627. We will see. Randy
>
>________________________________
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Sean Stephens
>Sent: Sun 5/8/2005 11:54 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Weighed in and almost ready for flight
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
>Randy,
>
>Does the 1593 include the ox tanks and the back seats? Just curious if
>you'll be closer to the demo weight when all is said and done.
>
>Sean
>#40303
>
>Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>Hi All,
>>
>>Randy sent some new pictures that you'll definitely want to check out.
>> Man is this guy getting CLOSE!!
>>
>>His RV-10 is now all weighed in and ready for flight. 1593 lbs, believe
>>it or not. Isn't that less than the factory demo, despite the
>>additional primer and stuff that he did?
>>
>>Here's a link to his page. Check out the last link on it.
>>
>>http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Weight of Randy's RV610RV |
Randy:
First flight with or without pants? I mean on the airplane . . . : )
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Weight of Randy's RV610RV
Well the weight that everyone was interested in is... 1593 lbs. As pictured on www.myrv10.com under 40006. Very nice weight if I say so myself. Randy
Message 14
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|
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=pBWbJBfWjI+7cpaekq/vQi70A4FzSZhpWxDyAIcTV4oOSZHzp1EV5+8v2OJLt5dOdeiatQ/h/koxot16CND1S+Y6djIv/ra51dJ6qDn+UNeZm8JIFgZv8tHFAN8BFaQ7+vqSDTswTpFWlef8RoDmmOLlLL+lFJudOdXk9eSmw0s=
;
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Hi all!
How many 3/32 Clecos is a good number to assemble the
wings? I would like to build them both at the same
time because I have the room. However after installing
two spars worth of nutplates and all of the
countersinking I wonder if that is a good idea?
Steve 40212
Message 15
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|
d="scan'217,208"; a="1080200619:sNHT1182872540"
| Subject: | Starter solenoid location |
Or, just don't use fat wire at all between the solenoids....use a nice fat
piece of copper or brass (cover with heavy heatshrink) to run between the
two (no reason to have them mounted far apart after all).
I stole the idea from some other old graybeard builder....no chance of any
fat wires vibrating around or chafing through....you'd be surprised to know
this is more common than you may think!
If you do have to use a fat wire (because your solenoids may be mounted too
far apart for the buss bar method), common standard practice is to use a
cushioned adel clamp wherever the wire runs near to any sort of metal or
brackets, or over long runs of any type. A few bucks and few minutes
installing adel clamps really will make your installations safer & better
when running any types of wire, spark plug leads, control cables, etc..
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
LessDragProd@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 8:28 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Starter solenoid location
Hi All,
I have recently had the opportunity to disassembly the firewall forward
electrical wiring on a RV-6A and a RV-6.
In both installations, the starter solenoid was mounted on the front side
of the firewall.
In both cases, the large wire from the master solenoid going to the
starter solenoid was chaffing against the corner of an aluminum bracket.
The wire insulation was worn more than half way through to the copper wire.
(48 hours TT on one installation, and the copper was visible through the
insulation.)
Please, take a little extra care with this large wire. With the master
switch on, it's always hot until it gets to the starter solenoid.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
PS I relocated the master and starter solenoids directly over the battery
box in my RV-6A. The starter wire going through the firewall is only hot
when the starter is engaged.
Message 16
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
700-750 should be good for the tailcone and the wings. I did both wings
at the same time too, and I had this quantity, and it worked out for me.
I think building them at the same time is a good way to go, because then
you can have them both laid out and verify that they both look good and
are mirror images of eachother....and that you didn't accidently use
parts from one wing in the other wing. I don't think I'd do it any
other way unless you just didn't have the room.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Darton Steve wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi all!
> How many 3/32 Clecos is a good number to assemble the
> wings? I would like to build them both at the same
> time because I have the room. However after installing
> two spars worth of nutplates and all of the
> countersinking I wonder if that is a good idea?
> Steve 40212
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Weight of Randy's RV610RV |
Without. I need the added drag for engine break-in.
________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weight of Randy's RV610RV
Randy:
First flight with or without pants? I mean on the airplane . . . : )
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Weight of Randy's RV610RV
Well the weight that everyone was interested in is... 1593 lbs. As pictured on www.myrv10.com under 40006. Very nice weight if I say so myself. Randy
Message 18
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| Subject: | Engine start today N610RV |
Well it runs and has oil pressure. I stated and ran the engine for a couple of
minutes today. What a feeling. I just can't wait for the full throttle run
later this week to set the prop gov. I will take the engine cowl off tomorrow
and give the engine a good look. Randy
Message 19
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Steve,
735...exactly...I had 635 and borrowed 100.
Rick S.
40185
Flaps
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