Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:16 AM - Re: plane flew into restricted airspace (Rob Kermanj)
2. 06:02 AM - Re: good tool supplier... (Bill and Tami Britton)
3. 06:20 AM - Re: plane flew into restricted airspace (Robert Wright)
4. 06:21 AM - Re: good tool supplier... (Tim Olson)
5. 07:00 AM - Re: Compressor (bob.kaufmann)
6. 08:58 AM - Wingtips (Jesse Saint)
7. 09:00 AM - Re: Compressor (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
8. 09:21 AM - Re: Wingtips (Mark Ritter)
9. 09:50 AM - Re: Wingtips (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
10. 09:53 AM - Re: Wingtips (Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr))
11. 10:04 AM - Re: Compressor (Tim Olson)
12. 10:25 AM - Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... (James Hein)
13. 11:00 AM - Soft rivets (JOHN STARN)
14. 11:05 AM - Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... (Stein Bruch)
15. 11:22 AM - Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... (James Ochs)
16. 11:37 AM - Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... (Mani Ravee)
17. 11:41 AM - Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... (Mani Ravee)
18. 11:49 AM - Re: Wingtips (Randy DeBauw)
19. 11:56 AM - rattle can primer (Dj Merrill)
20. 12:07 PM - Wing Root Connector (Sean Stephens)
21. 12:07 PM - AOA installation (Droopy Erickson)
22. 12:09 PM - Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... (Stein Bruch)
23. 12:29 PM - Re: Wing Root Connector (Randy DeBauw)
24. 12:30 PM - Re: AOA installation (Randy DeBauw)
25. 12:33 PM - Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... (Larry)
26. 12:42 PM - Re: AOA installation (Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr))
27. 01:21 PM - Re: AOA installation (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
28. 01:44 PM - Re: Wingtips (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
29. 01:52 PM - Re: Wingtips (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
30. 02:53 PM - Re: rattle can primer (Brian Denk)
31. 03:53 PM - Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... (Stein Bruch)
32. 04:22 PM - Re: rattle can primer (Bill Schlatterer)
33. 08:21 PM - Re: WTB: (Robert G. Wright)
34. 09:31 PM - Re: Rivet squeezer washers (William Curtis)
35. 10:02 PM - Re: Wing Root Connector (William Curtis)
36. 10:12 PM - Re: Re: Wing Root Connector (Sean Stephens)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: plane flew into restricted airspace |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
This man makes a lot of sense!
On May 12, 2005, at 5:18 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> I second MOST of this.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 3:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Man that idiot in the 152 made a lot of enemies. This sort of thing in
> the link that Tim (the other Tim) gave, is truly the thing that makes
> this small, idiotic mistake, into a far-reaching, big, huge frigging
> mistake that will drastically affect us all. http://www.aero-news.net
> Oh, and Daley is the worlds largest idiot, by the way.
>
> Wayne, you can give up the thread of how big a threat the C152 is
> loaded with explosives....if you want to use that argument, then I
> think we owe it to the world to voluntarily give up our planes, and
> clear the skies. We owe it to the world to not allow trucks into
> cities or pouplation centers where there are more than 200 people
> per city block. We owe it to the world to close down international
> shipping, or at least produce offshore ship inspection centers that
> they must stop at, outside our US territorial waters for a complete
> inspection before continuing. We should close down mass transit.
> We should close all US stadiums and sporting events. For heaven's
> sake, what kind of self-respecting true american PATRIOT would allow
> their own CHILDREN to attend a pro-football game....that sh1t is
> DANGEROUS....letting them go into a stadium. Hell, even if there
> isn't a bomb, there's a crowd of drunk people who could trample
> them.
>
> The way I see it is, sure, EVERYTHING is a threat. But, almost
> everything is something that a terrorist can still get away with.
> How much of a chance do you give ANY one person in this world
> if someone else really wants them dead. I'd bet on the shooter
> every time.
>
> That being the case, I think people need to be realistic and
> just plain understand that there are absolutely no guarantees
> in life....and no matter how hard they try in Washington, the
> only have about 1% of what it takes to protect you. The rest is
> up to you to watch you back. Truck, bus, plane, train, rocket,
> or even little red wagon....anything can haul a weapon.
>
> Do I think we're going to be attacked again some day? Damn right
> I do...we keep whacking at the hornets nest every day. Do I
> really care to give up any freedoms to protect myself from that
> threat? ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! We have no idea exactly what the
> threat IS, so we give up too much in life to try to fix all the
> holes.
>
> Did anyone else but me think that story made a ridiculous amount
> of headline news for what it really was? Did they count how
> many box vans, and trucks made it within 3 miles of the whitehouse?
> Did they count how many people wearing long overcoats, with suspicously
> large lumps under them, came within 1 mile of the whitehouse?
> Funny thing, that stinkin' grenade that was within 100' of the pres
> himself didn't make 10% of the headlines that this one tiny cessna
> 152, piloted by a (probably) rusty-skilled pilot did. Hmmmm, one
> thing is a real, actual, explosive. One is basically a rubber-band
> powered airplane.
>
> Wow, did I really just write all that? Time sure flies....I hope
> I can still fly by the time my RV-10 is done. I've probably
> NEVER been so paranoid about the future as I was on Sept. 12-14
> when I realized that it was a real possibility that I'd maybe
> never be flying a small plane again. To me, if they take away
> our planes, we may as well haul out our shotguns and go on
> a march....because at that point, it went WAY too far.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>>
>>
>> Check out the latest at www.aero-news.net . . .
>>
>> TDT
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne
>> Edgerton
>> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 1:42 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>>
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Wayne Edgerton"
> <weeav8ter@grandecom.net>
>>
>> I had flown my last plane at almost 800 lbs over gross and that would
> equate
>> to a bunch of explosives.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 10:03 AM
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>>
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
>>> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>>>
>>>
>>> What's the useful load of a C-152, compared to a SUV?
>>>
>>> TDT
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne
>>> Edgerton
>>> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 10:59 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>>>
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Wayne Edgerton"
>>> <weeav8ter@grandecom.net>
>>>
>>> Unless it was loaded with explosives like the car bombs that are
>>> going off
>>> in IRAQ that destroy whole buildings.
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 8:02 AM
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I don't know what's sadder - two guys who can't navigate, and didn't
>>> notice
>>> this huge city below them, or evacuating the Capital because a C-152
>>> was
>>> on
>>> its way. What would a -152 to if it hit the Capital? Make a soot
>>> mark
>>> and
>>> slide down the side?
>>>
>>> TDT
>>>
>>>
>>> ________________________________
>>>
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
>>> Sent: Thu 5/12/2005 8:26 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>>>
>>> Well said!
>>>
>>> Jesse Saint
>>> I-TEC, Inc.
>>> jesse@itecusa.org
>>> www.itecusa.org
>>> W: 352-465-4545
>>> C: 352-427-0285
>>> F: 815-377-3694
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AI Nut
>>> Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 7:16 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: AI Nut <ainut@hiwaay.net>
>>>
>>> Be very careful to assign blame to one's selves when the actual
>>> problem
>>> lies with over reaction from the security Nazi's.
>>>
>>> David
>>>
>>>
>>> son hoang wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "son hoang" <son@hoangs.com>
>>>>
>>>> C 152 w/ 2 men on board violated no fly zone
>>>> White House and Congress evacuated
>>>> red level alert
>>>> stock market dived because of the security scare
>>>>
>>>> this incident made me angry, frustrated and very sad
>>>> I just shook my head in disbelief
>>>> there was much over reaction to the real threat
>>>> but if we GA pilots keep doing this we will lose any freedom we
>>>> have to
>>>
>>> fly
>>>
>>>> who do we have to blame but ourselves ( or a few rotten ones among
>>>> us)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Bob Hodgson" <bob@hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk>
>>>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 12:05 PM
>>>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Mufflers on Rv's
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ====================================
>>> ====================================
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>>
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>
Message 2
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spamd3.ruraltel.net
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
| Subject: | Re: good tool supplier... |
Yeah, I know. I just have to bring myself to spend another $65 for it. I'm sure
it will happen but I thought I might try the washer idea first.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: ddavis@virtual-corp.net
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
fyi Cleaveland tools sells an adjustable set holder that you should be able to
use on your squeezer.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?numberSNSHA45
Deems Davis
emp 40406
"Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
Sent by: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
05/12/2005 08:37 PM Please respond to
rv10-list@matronics.com
To <rv10-list@matronics.com>
cc
Subject Re: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
James, I recently purchased a pneumatic squeezer without an adjustable set
holder. Could you send the recommendations on how many washers to use as
spacers for the different size rivets??? Also, I don't have any of the
washers but does anybody know their specs (can they be found locally at a
hardware store or are they aviation specific)???
TIA
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Ochs" <jochs@froody.org>
To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 5:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just got off the phone with clear air tools. I bought one of their
> rebuilt tandem squeezers off of ebay and called them to finish up the
> payment. I asked the gentleman who answered the phone if he was
> familiar with the particular model I bought and his response was "yes,
> I'm the one who rebuilt it". He then spent the next 10 minutes on the
> phone with me answering questions I had and (he's an RV-6 offender)
> explaining some of the techniques he used to set up a table for how many
> / what size washers to use since it doesn't have an adjustable set holder.
>
> They apparently manufacture their yokes and rebuild their own squeezers
> as well. They have a one year warranty on rivet guns and squeezers,
> including rebuilt ones and also including return shipping.
>
> They have a pretty limited catalog, but they do have pretty much
> anything you need for riveting ;)
>
> I'll let you all know how the tool itself turns out, but at this point I
> would highly recommend doing business with them if you are in the market
> for tools.
>
> Their website is http://clearairtools.com
>
> James
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | plane flew into restricted airspace |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
I think you should publish this letter. If more people were this sensible,
the world would be a better place.
Rob Wright's wife, a new private pilot
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
I second MOST of this.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Man that idiot in the 152 made a lot of enemies. This sort of thing in
the link that Tim (the other Tim) gave, is truly the thing that makes
this small, idiotic mistake, into a far-reaching, big, huge frigging
mistake that will drastically affect us all. http://www.aero-news.net
Oh, and Daley is the worlds largest idiot, by the way.
Wayne, you can give up the thread of how big a threat the C152 is
loaded with explosives....if you want to use that argument, then I
think we owe it to the world to voluntarily give up our planes, and
clear the skies. We owe it to the world to not allow trucks into
cities or pouplation centers where there are more than 200 people
per city block. We owe it to the world to close down international
shipping, or at least produce offshore ship inspection centers that
they must stop at, outside our US territorial waters for a complete
inspection before continuing. We should close down mass transit.
We should close all US stadiums and sporting events. For heaven's
sake, what kind of self-respecting true american PATRIOT would allow
their own CHILDREN to attend a pro-football game....that sh1t is
DANGEROUS....letting them go into a stadium. Hell, even if there
isn't a bomb, there's a crowd of drunk people who could trample
them.
The way I see it is, sure, EVERYTHING is a threat. But, almost
everything is something that a terrorist can still get away with.
How much of a chance do you give ANY one person in this world
if someone else really wants them dead. I'd bet on the shooter
every time.
That being the case, I think people need to be realistic and
just plain understand that there are absolutely no guarantees
in life....and no matter how hard they try in Washington, the
only have about 1% of what it takes to protect you. The rest is
up to you to watch you back. Truck, bus, plane, train, rocket,
or even little red wagon....anything can haul a weapon.
Do I think we're going to be attacked again some day? Damn right
I do...we keep whacking at the hornets nest every day. Do I
really care to give up any freedoms to protect myself from that
threat? ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! We have no idea exactly what the
threat IS, so we give up too much in life to try to fix all the
holes.
Did anyone else but me think that story made a ridiculous amount
of headline news for what it really was? Did they count how
many box vans, and trucks made it within 3 miles of the whitehouse?
Did they count how many people wearing long overcoats, with suspicously
large lumps under them, came within 1 mile of the whitehouse?
Funny thing, that stinkin' grenade that was within 100' of the pres
himself didn't make 10% of the headlines that this one tiny cessna
152, piloted by a (probably) rusty-skilled pilot did. Hmmmm, one
thing is a real, actual, explosive. One is basically a rubber-band
powered airplane.
Wow, did I really just write all that? Time sure flies....I hope
I can still fly by the time my RV-10 is done. I've probably
NEVER been so paranoid about the future as I was on Sept. 12-14
when I realized that it was a real possibility that I'd maybe
never be flying a small plane again. To me, if they take away
our planes, we may as well haul out our shotguns and go on
a march....because at that point, it went WAY too far.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> Check out the latest at www.aero-news.net . . .
>
> TDT
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 1:42 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Wayne Edgerton"
<weeav8ter@grandecom.net>
>
> I had flown my last plane at almost 800 lbs over gross and that would
equate
> to a bunch of explosives.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 10:03 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
>><Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>>
>>
>>What's the useful load of a C-152, compared to a SUV?
>>
>>TDT
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
>>Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 10:59 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>>
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Wayne Edgerton"
>><weeav8ter@grandecom.net>
>>
>>Unless it was loaded with explosives like the car bombs that are going off
>>in IRAQ that destroy whole buildings.
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 8:02 AM
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>>
>>
>>
>>I don't know what's sadder - two guys who can't navigate, and didn't
>>notice
>>this huge city below them, or evacuating the Capital because a C-152 was
>>on
>>its way. What would a -152 to if it hit the Capital? Make a soot mark
>>and
>>slide down the side?
>>
>>TDT
>>
>>
>>________________________________
>>
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
>>Sent: Thu 5/12/2005 8:26 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>>
>>
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>>
>>Well said!
>>
>>Jesse Saint
>>I-TEC, Inc.
>>jesse@itecusa.org
>>www.itecusa.org
>>W: 352-465-4545
>>C: 352-427-0285
>>F: 815-377-3694
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AI Nut
>>Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 7:16 PM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: AI Nut <ainut@hiwaay.net>
>>
>>Be very careful to assign blame to one's selves when the actual problem
>>lies with over reaction from the security Nazi's.
>>
>>David
>>
>>
>>son hoang wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "son hoang" <son@hoangs.com>
>>>
>>>C 152 w/ 2 men on board violated no fly zone
>>>White House and Congress evacuated
>>>red level alert
>>>stock market dived because of the security scare
>>>
>>>this incident made me angry, frustrated and very sad
>>>I just shook my head in disbelief
>>>there was much over reaction to the real threat
>>>but if we GA pilots keep doing this we will lose any freedom we have to
>>
>>fly
>>
>>>who do we have to blame but ourselves ( or a few rotten ones among us)
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Bob Hodgson" <bob@hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk>
>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 12:05 PM
>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Mufflers on Rv's
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>====================================
>>====================================
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: good tool supplier... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
You'll like having the adjustable set holder. Nice to be quickly
able to adjust height and be nice and precise as to how much
squeeze you want.
Tim
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> Yeah, I know. I just have to bring myself to spend another $65 for it.
> I'm sure it will happen but I thought I might try the washer idea first.
>
> Bill Britton
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* ddavis@virtual-corp.net <mailto:ddavis@virtual-corp.net>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, May 13, 2005 12:52 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
>
>
> fyi Cleaveland tools sells an adjustable set holder that you should
> be able to use on your squeezer.
>
> http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=SNSHA45
>
>
> Deems Davis
>
> emp 40406
>
>
> *"Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net <mailto:william@gbta.net>>*
> Sent by: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>
> 05/12/2005 08:37 PM
> Please respond to
> rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>
>
>
> To
> <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> cc
>
> Subject
> Re: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton"
> <william@gbta.net>
>
> James, I recently purchased a pneumatic squeezer without an
> adjustable set
> holder. Could you send the recommendations on how many washers to
> use as
> spacers for the different size rivets??? Also, I don't have any of the
> washers but does anybody know their specs (can they be found locally
> at a
> hardware store or are they aviation specific)???
>
> TIA
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Emp #40137
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Ochs" <jochs@froody.org>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 5:28 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > Just got off the phone with clear air tools. I bought one of their
> > rebuilt tandem squeezers off of ebay and called them to finish up the
> > payment. I asked the gentleman who answered the phone if he was
> > familiar with the particular model I bought and his response was
> "yes,
> > I'm the one who rebuilt it". He then spent the next 10 minutes
> on the
> > phone with me answering questions I had and (he's an RV-6 offender)
> > explaining some of the techniques he used to set up a table for
> how many
> > / what size washers to use since it doesn't have an adjustable
> set holder.
> >
> > They apparently manufacture their yokes and rebuild their own
> squeezers
> > as well. They have a one year warranty on rivet guns and squeezers,
> > including rebuilt ones and also including return shipping.
> >
> > They have a pretty limited catalog, but they do have pretty much
> > anything you need for riveting ;)
> >
> > I'll let you all know how the tool itself turns out, but at this
> point I
> > would highly recommend doing business with them if you are in the
> market
> > for tools.
> >
> > Their website is http://clearairtools.com
> >
> > James
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Rick to get your compressor to blow up just take a handful of sand and very
carefully pour it into the oil reservoir, after a few days you will be able
to justify a new compressor.
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Compressor
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
That sounds like a great deal, I paid that much for my Costco Coleman
special that is starting to drive me NUTS!!
Don't think I can justify buying another right now though, will have to wait
for the coleman to blow a gasket or something.
Do not archive
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 6
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|
Sorry to disrupt the nice flow of off-topic information. I am working on
the wingtips and have been thinking about the little wingtip rib. The plans
call for it to be flush with the inboard edge of the wingtip with the flange
outboard (inside the wingtip). I hate the idea of hammering rivets on
fiberglass and I hate using pop rivets. Does anybody see any reason why I
cannot switch the ribs from right to left and have the flange inboard and
use a squeezer to rivet it in? That is how the outboard rib is on the
aileron, so I can't imagine it would make a lot of difference aesthetically
or aerodynamically. Van's said that it would not make any difference
structurally, which is fairly obvious.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 7
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Droopy Erickson" <Droopy@ericksonjc.com>
Bob, that would assume Rick (and myself, I have the same compressor) had
been smart enough not to buy an oilless compressor. I laughed when I saw
Rick's post because I had been out in the shop working on deburring my
last leading edge and kept hoping I wasn't imagining strange noises
coming from the compressor. I really wish I had bought a bigger quieter
compressor. Hopefully the useful lifespan of these things is a little
over a year and I can get an excuse to buy a new one soon. Didn't Tim
Olsen have one die a premature death? :)
John
#40208 Wings
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob.kaufmann
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Compressor
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Rick to get your compressor to blow up just take a handful of sand and
very carefully pour it into the oil reservoir, after a few days you will
be able to justify a new compressor.
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Compressor
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
That sounds like a great deal, I paid that much for my Costco Coleman
special that is starting to drive me NUTS!!
Don't think I can justify buying another right now though, will have to
wait for the coleman to blow a gasket or something.
Do not archive
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 8
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|
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
as possible.
--- MIME Errors ---
Message 9
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|
I have one thought,
As much as we hate pop rivets, a hard rivets swells in the hole as it is
being driven. In fiberglass the swelling is almost and often can be the
start of a good crack. The pop rivets are mostly a clamping force use some
good goo between the fiberglass and the rib and pop away knowing the pop
rivets are there just to hold the thing in place wile the goo sets up. Like
the idea of the reverse rib! Would make it easy to see just how good the
pop rivets are doing.
Noel
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Wingtips
Sorry to disrupt the nice flow of off-topic information. I am working on
the wingtips and have been thinking about the little wingtip rib. The plans
call for it to be flush with the inboard edge of the wingtip with the flange
outboard (inside the wingtip). I hate the idea of hammering rivets on
fiberglass and I hate using pop rivets. Does anybody see any reason why I
cannot switch the ribs from right to left and have the flange inboard and
use a squeezer to rivet it in? That is how the outboard rib is on the
aileron, so I can't imagine it would make a lot of difference aesthetically
or aerodynamically. Van's said that it would not make any difference
structurally, which is fairly obvious.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 10
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|
Solid rivets in composite parts are usually not a good idea. When the rivet expands
in a metal part it actually cold works the hole improving its fatigue life.
It is actually yielding and setting up residual tensile stresses around
the perimeter of the hole which improve the fatigue life.
If a solid rivet is used in a composite part there is a tendency for the expanding
rivet to damage the perimeter of the hole as the composites do not yield like
metal does, they simply fail. Thus you could end up with failed fibers around
the perimeter of the hole which is usually not a good thing. I would be much
more comfortable using the hollow (blind) rivets in composites as the expansion
force is much smaller than that of solid rivets.
Niko
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Wingtips
Sorry to disrupt the nice flow of off-topic information. I am working on the wingtips
and have been thinking about the little wingtip rib. The plans call for
it to be flush with the inboard edge of the wingtip with the flange outboard
(inside the wingtip). I hate the idea of hammering rivets on fiberglass and
I hate using pop rivets. Does anybody see any reason why I cannot switch the
ribs from right to left and have the flange inboard and use a squeezer to rivet
it in? That is how the outboard rib is on the aileron, so I can't imagine
it would make a lot of difference aesthetically or aerodynamically. Van's said
that it would not make any difference structurally, which is fairly obvious.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 11
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Oh no, I myself didn't have one die a premature death. I have a
very old cast iron compressor (small 20 gallon, 4 or 5 cfm) that
still runs very well. When I started the kit, I also bought
a brand new Campbell Hausfeld VT6271 220V 26 gallon (approx.)
10+ cfm compressor (probably the same pump on this one just posted
last week), that is all cast iron too and fairly quiet.
The failure was of a friends Craftsman oil free. His was REAL
loud. It did last a few years, but he ended up borrowing my old
one for quite a while until he could buy a nice one.
If you read the google groups postings though, you'll see that
if you want quiet and long life, oiled is the way to go.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Droopy Erickson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Droopy Erickson" <Droopy@ericksonjc.com>
>
> Bob, that would assume Rick (and myself, I have the same compressor) had
> been smart enough not to buy an oilless compressor. I laughed when I saw
> Rick's post because I had been out in the shop working on deburring my
> last leading edge and kept hoping I wasn't imagining strange noises
> coming from the compressor. I really wish I had bought a bigger quieter
> compressor. Hopefully the useful lifespan of these things is a little
> over a year and I can get an excuse to buy a new one soon. Didn't Tim
> Olsen have one die a premature death? :)
>
> John
> #40208 Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob.kaufmann
> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 6:57 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Compressor
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
>
> Rick to get your compressor to blow up just take a handful of sand and
> very carefully pour it into the oil reservoir, after a few days you will
> be able to justify a new compressor.
>
> Bob K
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 7:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Compressor
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
>
> That sounds like a great deal, I paid that much for my Costco Coleman
> special that is starting to drive me NUTS!!
> Don't think I can justify buying another right now though, will have to
> wait for the coleman to blow a gasket or something.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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d="scan'208"; a="927456367:sNHT14596732"
| Subject: | Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hey all!
After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I have
returned to conquer the VS!
Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the skin.
I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for now...)
before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
What does everyone else think?
-Jim 40384
Message 13
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|
<E54692CC6E492D4EAE2C14642EA6993C114787@xcgmd064.md.essd.northgrum.com>
We used the "soft" rivets (AN426A) when dealing with fiberglass surfaces. "Normal"
AN426AD rivets have a more than double tensile strength of the "A". We have
250+ hrs and four years, no cracks or pull outs thus far. Go to page# 94 in
the ACS catalog for more details. They were used on the hinge attachments to the
cowl. We "glued" the hinges with epoxy resin at the same time we set the soft
rivets and then covered the hinge with 'glass & resin after the rivet/glue
was set up. We used them to mount nutplates also. They do squeeze with a lot less
force (and less than the pressure required in "pop-rivets") and we used the
hand squeezers wherever possible (less material stress than gun & bucking bar).
KABONG
(NOTE: message body was "trimmed" and in this case there was not "D0 N0t Arch1ve"
(spelling) as I think this should be part of the archives BUT since the original
post is also in the archive I trimmed the redundant parts.
----- Original Message -----
From: Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 9:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wingtips
Solid rivets in composite parts are usually not a good idea. When the rivet
expands in a
Message 14
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|
d="scan'208"; a="1001558222:sNHT19471104"
| Subject: | Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Just alodine the rivet lines and leave the rest alone! The alclad on the
rest of the skins will suffice, and if you put a layer of alodine over the
rivet lines where you've drilled, c/s and will rivet, that takes care of
that.
My 2 cents as usual...
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
Masters.....
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hey all!
After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I have
returned to conquer the VS!
Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the skin.
I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for now...)
before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
What does everyone else think?
-Jim 40384
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Personally, I did the inside of the skin. I'm not using alodine, but a
similar process from sanchem which uses a non-toxic permagnate and
sealer instead of the alodine and primer. I'd hate to have to replace
any of the parts due to corrosion. i just did the first half of
riveting the VS skin to the frame and I think drilling out, or cutting
and patching and then replacing the skin due to corrosion would just be
an unpleasant experience ;) I've even been debating doing the outside
of the skin with the permagnate because it is supposed to be highly
corrosion resistant and a good base for primer. Or maybe I'll just do
the normal primer and paint thing on the outside. I don't know yet.
ADvice welcome ;)
James
#40400
2 hours left to go on the VS
James Hein wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
> Hey all!
> After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
> for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I
> have returned to conquer the VS!
>
> Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
> Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the
> skin. I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for
> now...) before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
>
> What does everyone else think?
>
> -Jim 40384
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Stein, do you cover the alclad skins with an epoxy primer?
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
Masters.....
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Just alodine the rivet lines and leave the rest alone! The alclad on the
rest of the skins will suffice, and if you put a layer of alodine over the
rivet lines where you've drilled, c/s and will rivet, that takes care of
that.
My 2 cents as usual...
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
Masters.....
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hey all!
After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I have
returned to conquer the VS!
Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the skin.
I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for now...)
before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
What does everyone else think?
-Jim 40384
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Jim, I spray the acid prep from a spry bottle and rub it around with a
scotch pad - green. Wash and spray the alodine. Sometimes use a roller
(paint foam) to wet the area over and over for about 5 min. Then use the
AKZO primer.
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters.....
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hey all!
After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I have
returned to conquer the VS!
Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the skin.
I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for now...)
before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
What does everyone else think?
-Jim 40384
Message 18
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No reason you can't switch them Jesse. Just make sure you swap sides if you change
them. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Wingtips
Sorry to disrupt the nice flow of off-topic information. I am working on the wingtips
and have been thinking about the little wingtip rib. The plans call for
it to be flush with the inboard edge of the wingtip with the flange outboard
(inside the wingtip). I hate the idea of hammering rivets on fiberglass and
I hate using pop rivets. Does anybody see any reason why I cannot switch the
ribs from right to left and have the flange inboard and use a squeezer to rivet
it in? That is how the outboard rib is on the aileron, so I can't imagine
it would make a lot of difference aesthetically or aerodynamically. Van's said
that it would not make any difference structurally, which is fairly obvious.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | rattle can primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
I've heard there are some decent rattle
can Self Etching Primers. Anyone know of
a good source where I can do some research, and
possible product sources in the Raleigh, NC area?
I'd like to at least evaluate the possibility,
primer-wars aside...
Thanks,
-Dj
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Wing Root Connector |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Randy,
I think I remember from the old Yahoo groups you mentioning the part
number for the connector you use at the wing root. But, alas I cannot
find it in the archives. Go figure.
Looks like something I want to do, so if you get a chance, could you
post the part number?
Thanks...
-Sean #40303
Message 21
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| Subject: | AOA installation |
Hey all,
Just wondering for those that have installed the AOA (Pro or Sport)
system. Was it easier to install before riveting the leading edge
together, after riveting but before attaching to the wing, or after it's
completely installed? Also, did you install an access panel similiar to
the one called out for Van's stall warning vane?
Thanks,
John (breathing epoxy primer fumes today...)
#40208 Wings
Message 22
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d="scan'208"; a="1108272896:sNHT496617558"
| Subject: | Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I like many people did prime my 1st RV, but like the same may people haven't
on my next RV. I just alodine the rivet lines or anywhere else I scratch,
drill, polish, etc.. I think you'll find putting the primer on doesn't hurt
anything, it just adds weight, time, and money to cover up something that is
already protected by the alclad. That being said, if you remove the alclad
you need to cover it with something!
Also, instead of using messy buckets/bins/tanks for the alodine (which
others have pointed out to be somewhat toxic), it's now pretty popular just
to buy one of those nifty "Alodine Pens", which looks like a giant felt tip
marker, and contains Alodine in it. No messy dipping, rinsing, disposal of
waste, etc... Just run the pen over the rivet lines or the part you need to
cover, let it dry and you're done. The alodine pens have been used for years
at the airlines, boeing, the military, NASA, etc......
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
Masters.....
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
Stein, do you cover the alclad skins with an epoxy primer?
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
Masters.....
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Just alodine the rivet lines and leave the rest alone! The alclad on the
rest of the skins will suffice, and if you put a layer of alodine over the
rivet lines where you've drilled, c/s and will rivet, that takes care of
that.
My 2 cents as usual...
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
Masters.....
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
Hey all!
After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I have
returned to conquer the VS!
Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the skin.
I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for now...)
before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
What does everyone else think?
-Jim 40384
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Wing Root Connector |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
The AMP connectors were supplied by www.Aerocraftparts.com. I don't know the part number but Tony can supply you with that and should have them in stock. Also Tim bought them for his wings from some other mail order place and I am sure he can send you the info. They supplied the connectors with bulkhead side on the wing. You can look at my photos and see the plate I made to hold the fitting. I think I would put the bulkhead fitting on the fuse not the wing. As it turned out other than making the bracket to hold the bulkhead fitting I really liked the way the wing/fuse connection came put. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Root Connector
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Randy,
I think I remember from the old Yahoo groups you mentioning the part
number for the connector you use at the wing root. But, alas I cannot
find it in the archives. Go figure.
Looks like something I want to do, so if you get a chance, could you
post the part number?
Thanks...
-Sean #40303
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | AOA installation |
Look at my photos on Tim's site. I showed how I ran the tubing. I installed the
AOA just before paint. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Droopy Erickson
Subject: RV10-List: AOA installation
Hey all,
Just wondering for those that have installed the AOA (Pro or Sport) system. Was
it easier to install before riveting the leading edge together, after riveting
but before attaching to the wing, or after it's completely installed? Also,
did you install an access panel similiar to the one called out for Van's stall
warning vane?
Thanks,
John (breathing epoxy primer fumes today...)
#40208 Wings
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Where can you get the Alodine pens from?
Larry
Stein Bruch wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>I like many people did prime my 1st RV, but like the same may people haven't
>on my next RV. I just alodine the rivet lines or anywhere else I scratch,
>drill, polish, etc.. I think you'll find putting the primer on doesn't hurt
>anything, it just adds weight, time, and money to cover up something that is
>already protected by the alclad. That being said, if you remove the alclad
>you need to cover it with something!
>
>Also, instead of using messy buckets/bins/tanks for the alodine (which
>others have pointed out to be somewhat toxic), it's now pretty popular just
>to buy one of those nifty "Alodine Pens", which looks like a giant felt tip
>marker, and contains Alodine in it. No messy dipping, rinsing, disposal of
>waste, etc... Just run the pen over the rivet lines or the part you need to
>cover, let it dry and you're done. The alodine pens have been used for years
>at the airlines, boeing, the military, NASA, etc......
>
>
>Cheers,
>Stein.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
>Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 1:35 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
>Masters.....
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Stein, do you cover the alclad skins with an epoxy primer?
>
>Mani Ravee, MD
>Indianapolis, KUMP
>#40339. N528AR
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
>Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 1:01 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
>Masters.....
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>Just alodine the rivet lines and leave the rest alone! The alclad on the
>rest of the skins will suffice, and if you put a layer of alodine over the
>rivet lines where you've drilled, c/s and will rivet, that takes care of
>that.
>
>My 2 cents as usual...
>
>Cheers,
>Stein.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein
>Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 12:24 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
>Masters.....
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
>Hey all!
> After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
>for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I have
>returned to conquer the VS!
>
> Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
>Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the skin.
>I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for now...)
>before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
>
> What does everyone else think?
>
>-Jim 40384
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | AOA installation |
I installed it after riveting the leading edge together but before attaching it
to the rest of the wing. This allows access from the back end of the leading
edge.
Niko
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Droopy Erickson
Subject: RV10-List: AOA installation
Hey all,
Just wondering for those that have installed the AOA (Pro or Sport) system. Was
it easier to install before riveting the leading edge together, after riveting
but before attaching to the wing, or after it's completely installed? Also,
did you install an access panel similiar to the one called out for Van's stall
warning vane?
Thanks,
John (breathing epoxy primer fumes today...)
#40208 Wings
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: AOA installation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Install after the leading edge is riveted, doesn't make any difference whether
already attached to wing or not. No need for an access panel - the pressure taps
go in the outboard bay and are reachable through the lightening holes in the
outboard rib with the wingtip off.
Bob
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: AOA installation
Hey all,
Just wondering for those that have installed the AOA (Pro or Sport) system. Was
it easier to install before riveting the leading edge together, after riveting
but before attaching to the wing, or after it's completely installed? Also,
did you install an access panel similiar to the one called out for Van's stall
warning vane?
Thanks,
John (breathing epoxy primer fumes today...)
#40208 Wings
Message 28
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|
You can also use soft solid rivets.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel & Yoshie
Simmons
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wingtips
I have one thought,
As much as we hate pop rivets, a hard rivets swells in the hole as it is
being driven. In fiberglass the swelling is almost and often can be the
start of a good crack. The pop rivets are mostly a clamping force use
some good goo between the fiberglass and the rib and pop away knowing
the pop rivets are there just to hold the thing in place wile the goo
sets up. Like the idea of the reverse rib! Would make it easy to see
just how good the pop rivets are doing.
Noel
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Wingtips
Sorry to disrupt the nice flow of off-topic information. I am working
on the wingtips and have been thinking about the little wingtip rib.
The plans call for it to be flush with the inboard edge of the wingtip
with the flange outboard (inside the wingtip). I hate the idea of
hammering rivets on fiberglass and I hate using pop rivets. Does
anybody see any reason why I cannot switch the ribs from right to left
and have the flange inboard and use a squeezer to rivet it in? That is
how the outboard rib is on the aileron, so I can't imagine it would make
a lot of difference aesthetically or aerodynamically. Van's said that
it would not make any difference structurally, which is fairly obvious.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 29
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|
Ray:
Can we contact you when we're having cell phone problems? : )
Do not archive
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK]
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wingtips
You can also use soft solid rivets.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel & Yoshie Simmons
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wingtips
I have one thought,
As much as we hate pop rivets, a hard rivets swells in the hole as it is being
driven. In fiberglass the swelling is almost and often can be the start of a
good crack. The pop rivets are mostly a clamping force use some good goo between
the fiberglass and the rib and pop away knowing the pop rivets are there just
to hold the thing in place wile the goo sets up. Like the idea of the reverse
rib! Would make it easy to see just how good the pop rivets are doing.
Noel
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Wingtips
Sorry to disrupt the nice flow of off-topic information. I am working on the wingtips
and have been thinking about the little wingtip rib. The plans call for
it to be flush with the inboard edge of the wingtip with the flange outboard
(inside the wingtip). I hate the idea of hammering rivets on fiberglass and
I hate using pop rivets. Does anybody see any reason why I cannot switch the
ribs from right to left and have the flange inboard and use a squeezer to rivet
it in? That is how the outboard rib is on the aileron, so I can't imagine
it would make a lot of difference aesthetically or aerodynamically. Van's said
that it would not make any difference structurally, which is fairly obvious.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | rattle can primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
> I've heard there are some decent rattle
>can Self Etching Primers. Anyone know of
>a good source where I can do some research, and
>possible product sources in the Raleigh, NC area?
>I'd like to at least evaluate the possibility,
>primer-wars aside...
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Dj
Marhyde and SEM are my favorites. Use SEM mostly now. Seems to be on the
local paint shop shelf more consistently than Marhyde.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 31
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|
d="scan'208"; a="921666101:sNHT20573504"
| Subject: | Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I'm almost afraid to write this, because undoubtedly I'll get some scathing
message off list from someone accusing me of "stumping" or using the list
for commercial purposes.
So......to be fair, here's where I know you can get the Alodine Pens:
Aircraft Spruce, Wicks and SteinAir. Prices vary by $5-10 between
suppliers, and these things aren't cheap. Pricing is from $45-$55 each, but
one pen should be nearly enough for an RV. Whether or not you choose to
prime, every metal plane builder should still have one of these in their
toolbox.
Cheers,
Stein.
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
Masters.....
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Where can you get the Alodine pens from?
Larry
Stein Bruch wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>I like many people did prime my 1st RV, but like the same may people
haven't
>on my next RV. I just alodine the rivet lines or anywhere else I scratch,
>drill, polish, etc.. I think you'll find putting the primer on doesn't
hurt
>anything, it just adds weight, time, and money to cover up something that
is
>already protected by the alclad. That being said, if you remove the alclad
>you need to cover it with something!
>
>Also, instead of using messy buckets/bins/tanks for the alodine (which
>others have pointed out to be somewhat toxic), it's now pretty popular just
>to buy one of those nifty "Alodine Pens", which looks like a giant felt tip
>marker, and contains Alodine in it. No messy dipping, rinsing, disposal of
>waste, etc... Just run the pen over the rivet lines or the part you need
to
>cover, let it dry and you're done. The alodine pens have been used for
years
>at the airlines, boeing, the military, NASA, etc......
>
>
>Cheers,
>Stein.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
>Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 1:35 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
>Masters.....
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Stein, do you cover the alclad skins with an epoxy primer?
>
>Mani Ravee, MD
>Indianapolis, KUMP
>#40339. N528AR
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
>Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 1:01 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
>Masters.....
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>Just alodine the rivet lines and leave the rest alone! The alclad on the
>rest of the skins will suffice, and if you put a layer of alodine over the
>rivet lines where you've drilled, c/s and will rivet, that takes care of
>that.
>
>My 2 cents as usual...
>
>Cheers,
>Stein.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein
>Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 12:24 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
>Masters.....
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
>
>Hey all!
> After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
>for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I have
>returned to conquer the VS!
>
> Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
>Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the skin.
>I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for now...)
>before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
>
> What does everyone else think?
>
>-Jim 40384
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | rattle can primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Sherwin Williams 988 is very good stuff for a "rattle can". Special nozzle
that sprays very well. Available at Car Quest or same from Napa packaged as
7220(?) by SW under the Martin Senor brand name. All the same stuff just
different can. Dupont just released a new self-etching primer 4115SS which
looks like a zinc oxide base. It appears to work well (just used some this
afternoon). My favorite is the SW 988.
All available from any auto refinish supplier and there are plenty in
Raleigh. This is great stuff to have around the shop for small parts when
you don't want to mix two parts etc. Some folks use it for almost
everything.
Bill S
7a Ark
fuse/panel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Subject: RV10-List: rattle can primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
I've heard there are some decent rattle
can Self Etching Primers. Anyone know of
a good source where I can do some research, and
possible product sources in the Raleigh, NC area?
I'd like to at least evaluate the possibility,
primer-wars aside...
Thanks,
-Dj
Message 33
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|
Here's my follow up to this.
I ordered the 3/32 and the 1/8 Burraways on Wednesday (make sure you get the
neutral blade for aluminum) from SC. They arrived in Enterprise, AL this
evening, Friday via ground UPS. Cost was somewhere around $75 for both
parts, not sure what shipping was. Can't wait to try them out on the VS
skin tomorrow.
Rob Wright
40392
VS skeleton and skin clecoed
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Cogsdill Tool Products, Inc.
PO Box 7007
Camden, SC 29020-7007
803-438-4000 or
803-438-5263
Email cogsdill@cogsdill.com
Catalog # 100 U.S. 1-04, "Burraway" Pages 6-11
John Cox
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Where did you get your Burraway tool?
Rene'
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: WTB:
Deburring is much more pleasant with the Cogsdill Burraway tool.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 10, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
I agree, I will swap dimpling for debur any day....of course I am just
starting on my wings.
Rene'
N423CF
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Actually, I did not mind the dimpling at all. Its the tedious deburring of
the holes which get me. I really hate that.
Mani
Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net> wrote:
Message 34
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| Subject: | RE: Rivet squeezer washers |
You will find an AN-960 washer is about 1/16 of an inch thick. I find that with
1 washer you can squeeze a -6 rivet, with 2 a -5 and with 3, a -4 rivet. I
have a thin 1/32 washer that I use to get the extra .5 for the -3.5 rivet.
William Curtis
40237 - wings
Message 35
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| Subject: | RE: Wing Root Connector |
See below pdf for the part numbers on the AMP CPC connectors used on the wing root. The plug is used on the wing and the square flang male receptacle is used on the fuselage. The listed part numbers can be ordered from Mouser Electronics <http://www.mouser.com/>, much cheaper than Aerotronics.
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/RV10Electrical_v3b.pdf
<http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/bin/TE.Connect?C=10574&F=0&M=CINF&GIID=771&LG=1&I=13&RQS=C~10574%5eP~147388,2335,10250,23197,25822,76059%5eM~PROP%5eN~1%5eIDS~40295>
William
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Wing Root Connector |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Thanks for the info...
Do Not Archive
William Curtis wrote:
> See below pdf for the part numbers on the AMP CPC connectors used on
> the wing root. The plug is used on the wing and the square flang male
> receptacle is used on the fuselage. The listed part numbers can be
> ordered from Mouser Electronics , much cheaper than Aerotronics.
>
> http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/RV10Electrical_v3b.pdf
>
>
> William
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