Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:17 AM - Re: Re: Wing Root Connector (Stein Bruch)
2. 04:30 AM - Re: CompressorCompressor (Russell Daves)
3. 04:38 AM - Re: rattle can primer (Russell Daves)
4. 07:54 AM - Re: WTB: (John W. Cox)
5. 08:56 AM - Re: Re: Wing Root Connector (Jim Combs)
6. 12:00 PM - Re: WTB: (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
7. 12:54 PM - Re: Compressor (Rick)
8. 01:02 PM - Re: CompressorCompressor (Rick)
9. 01:08 PM - Re: rattle can primer (Rick)
10. 01:12 PM - Re: AOA installation (Rick)
11. 01:23 PM - Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi (Rick)
12. 01:24 PM - Re: Wingtips (Rick)
13. 04:25 PM - Re: rattle can primer (William Curtis)
14. 04:37 PM - Re: Wing Root Connector (William Curtis)
15. 05:44 PM - Re: WTB: burraway (Darton Steve)
16. 07:34 PM - FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! (James Ochs)
17. 07:40 PM - Re: WTB: (Robert G. Wright)
18. 09:20 PM - Re: WTB: (Darton Steve)
Message 1
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d="scan'217,208"; a="919009312:sNHT22259186"
Subject: | RE: Wing Root Connector |
Nice job on the schematic! Now for my usual curiosity.....
Are you running individual ground wires (5+ separate) for everything through
that wing root connector? Some of those things are as easily grounded
locally--remember we're building metal airplanes here, and things like stall
warning (that are almost NEVER energized) and nav lights, et.al, aren't
typically "noisy" things that are suceptible to ground loops.
Also, did you make sure you can/are allowed to splice the OAT
wires??...several of the main mfgrs of these things don't want/allow
splicing or modification of the OAT cables due to inconsistantcies in the
signals. Also, typical resistance/float type fuel sendors don't usually
require a separate ground, are you using capacitance senders? Either way,
AWG18 is a HUGE wire for a fuel level sender/sensor. Same with the Stall
warning...looks kind of fat to me. Also, the pitot heat at AWG16 may
suffice, but several of the heated pitot mfgrs suggest AWG14. I'll go out
on a limb here and guess you're using a TT autopilot? Why the AWG18 Ground
for that servo with a power lead of AWG20? In the harnesses we build for
TruTrak, they nearly all use AWG20 for the power/ground, and AWG22 for the
signal wires.
I assume from your diagram you are not having a root connector for the
antennas or strobe wiring? If so, I'm assuming you're not running the
antenna wires in the same conduit as the high tension strobe wires? Good
choice on the wing root NAV antennas, but you might also think about the
wingtip MB antenna instead of the old boat/sled type fuselage antenna. One
less thing in the airstream and the wingtip ones work beautifully!
Anyway, my point here isn't to berate your diagram, because you have a well
thought out and designed schematic that is better than many I've seen. I'm
just asking questions.....and as pointed out in many historical posts of
mine, I'm not a huge fan of having any connectors in the wing roots or aft
fuse bulkheads at all. More points of failure, and once the wings are
mounted for good, how many times do you think you'll ever remove them? I'm
not saying to never use one, just make sure you have really justified your
need for it. If it's only to make things easier for fitting the wings, let
me point out that you'll likely spend more time installing the connectors,
wire, pins, etc.. than it would take to just run the wires when the wings
are completely installed. For example either run the wires when you build
the wings and leave some coils zip tied to the root rib, or do it the other
way around. I'm just of the old school KISS, simple and light. Complexity
always reduces reliability, increases weight, cost and time. 1 loose pin in
the connector someday can make for troubleshooting hell....
Last but not least, if you do use any type of connectors, make sure you buy
connectors and pins that are rated for the loads you will be carrying.
Things like Landing Lights and PItot heat draw a relatively high amount of
current, and many of those CPC connectors, specifically the "Series 1" Part
Number you have spec'd out on your drawing are actually only rated for a MAX
of 13 AMPS for each size 16 pin, per the spec from AMP/TYCO (I could be
wrong here, but that's what I found in my AMP catalog here). This is the
max current for that particular pin in "free" air, not when installed with
multiple current carrying sources. Make sure you buy the good gold flashed
pins as well. You'll probably be fine, as I don't think you'll have
anything in your schematic that is drawing that much current, but I just
wanted to caution people overall to not just buy "any" type of connector to
throw in the wing root.
Not a flame intended here, just some information for everyone considering
wing root connectors.
Just my 2 cents...worth every penny you paid for it!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of William Curtis
Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 12:02 AM
To: RV10-List@matronics.com; schmoboy@cox.net
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Wing Root Connector
See below pdf for the part numbers on the AMP CPC connectors used on the
wing root. The plug is used on the wing and the square flang male receptacle
is used on the fuselage. The listed part numbers can be ordered from Mouser
Electronics , much cheaper than Aerotronics.
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/RV10Electrical_v3b.pdf
William
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: CompressorCompressor |
Dear Rick & Bob:
Having broke bread with the two of you, I am suprised about the sand idea. Everyone
knows there is no sand in your neck of the woods and Rick is certaintly
not a beach bum.
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: rattle can primer |
I like zinc chromate in rattle cans. http://shop.store.yahoo.com/stylespilotshop/a7-6889a.html $4.95 per can plus shipping. I order in boxes of six. Good service.
Russ
Message 4
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Thanks for pointing out the neutral blade. There are a lot of builders
looking forward to your report. Be sure and remind them when you get to
the wings as to its value.
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Here's my follow up to this.
I ordered the 3/32 and the 1/8 Burraways on Wednesday (make sure you get
the neutral blade for aluminum) from SC. They arrived in Enterprise, AL
this evening, Friday via ground UPS. Cost was somewhere around $75 for
both parts, not sure what shipping was. Can't wait to try them out on
the VS skin tomorrow.
Rob Wright
40392
VS skeleton and skin clecoed
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Cogsdill Tool Products, Inc.
PO Box 7007
Camden, SC 29020-7007
803-438-4000 or
803-438-5263
Email cogsdill@cogsdill.com
Catalog # 100 U.S. 1-04, "Burraway" Pages 6-11
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Where did you get your Burraway tool?
Rene'
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: WTB:
Deburring is much more pleasant with the Cogsdill Burraway tool.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 10, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
I agree, I will swap dimpling for debur any day........of course I am
just starting on my wings.
Rene'
N423CF
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Actually, I did not mind the dimpling at all. Its the tedious deburring
of the holes which get me. I really hate that.
Mani
Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net> wrote:
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: RE: Wing Root Connector |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Sir William,
On your diagram, Am I correct to assume the "Pitch Servo" is the Ray Allen electric
elevator trim? vs an autopilot pitch / altitude servo?
Jim C
#40192
Do Not Archive
>See below pdf for the part numbers on the AMP CPC connectors used on the wing root. The plug is used on the wing and the square flang male receptacle is used on the fuselage. The listed part numbers can be ordered from Mouser Electronics <http://www.mouser.com/>, much cheaper than Aerotronics.
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/RV10Electrical_v3b.pdf
<http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/bin/TE.Connect?C=10574&F=0&M=CINF&GIID=771&LG=1&I=13&RQS=C~10574%5eP~147388,2335,10250,23197,25822,76059%5eM~PROP%5eN~1%5eIDS~40295>
William
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Actually, I've been using these since I started (finished with the HS) and I love
them. My favorite thing to do is chuck it up in the drill press and go to
town on things like ribs and spars. I had all of the HS ribs deburred in something
like 15 minutes.
Michael
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Thanks for pointing out the neutral blade. There are a lot of builders looking
forward to your report. Be sure and remind them when you get to the wings as
to its value.
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Here's my follow up to this.
I ordered the 3/32 and the 1/8 Burraways on Wednesday (make sure you get the neutral
blade for aluminum) from SC. They arrived in Enterprise, AL this evening,
Friday via ground UPS. Cost was somewhere around $75 for both parts, not sure
what shipping was. Can't wait to try them out on the VS skin tomorrow.
Rob Wright
40392
VS skeleton and skin clecoed
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Cogsdill Tool Products, Inc.
PO Box 7007
Camden, SC 29020-7007
803-438-4000 or
803-438-5263
Email cogsdill@cogsdill.com
Catalog # 100 U.S. 1-04, "Burraway" Pages 6-11
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Where did you get your Burraway tool?
Rene'
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: WTB:
Deburring is much more pleasant with the Cogsdill Burraway tool.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 10, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
I agree, I will swap dimpling for debur any day........of course I am just starting
on my wings.
Rene'
N423CF
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Actually, I did not mind the dimpling at all. Its the tedious deburring of the
holes which get me. I really hate that.
Mani
Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net> wrote:
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
No oil pan on mine "oiless", unlike another compressor I saw that acts like old
faithful ;)
Do not archive
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: CompressorCompressor |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
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resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
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as possible.
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Message 9
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Subject: | rattle can primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
I picked up some VERY good gray self etching yesterday, almost fell down at the
cost $16.00 for a 16 oz can. Fantastic spray nozzel and really tough as nails
this morning after sitting last night. Made in England and it's called "Acid
#8" by a company called U-POL. I was out and stopped by D'Angelos instad of trucking
all the way across town to Sherwin Williams. I used Green Zinc on the inside
from Spruce, on part I think might get primed and painted later I have use
the 988 up until last night on the Flap hinges. This stuff is expensive but
tough and it covered in one pass so it may be more economical. Still like AKZO
for durability though.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: AOA installation |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
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resend the email using plaintext formatting.
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WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
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Masters.....
Subject: | Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi |
Masters.....
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
hee he heee HAA HHAAAAA HA HAHAH HAHAHAHA......
I love those questions. Check out Tim Olsons site www.myrv10.com ...I think he has the best method of corrosion proofing going short of anodizing everything. I degloss, degrease and prime. I only Alodine only solid aluminum parts, ie non alcad stuff.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 12
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DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
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as possible.
--- MIME Errors ---
Message 13
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Subject: | RE: rattle can primer |
If you go to any NAPA auto store, they carry Dupli-Color DAP 1690 Self-Etching
Primer for $5.95. It is great stuff and I use if for small parts when I do not
want to mix up the two part stuff.
DAP 1690:
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/primer.html
DAP 1690 MSDE:
<http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=DUPLI&prodno=DAP1690&doctype=MSDS&lang=E>
William
#40237 - wings
Message 14
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Subject: | RE: Wing Root Connector |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <>
>Sir William,
>
>On your diagram, Am I correct to assume the "Pitch Servo" is
> the Ray Allen electric elevator trim? vs an autopilot pitch
> / altitude servo?
>
>Jim C
>#40192
Jim,
I believe it says "Pitch Trim (5)", that is the Ray Allen electric trim. "Autopilot
Servo (8)" is the autpilot pitch servo.
William
#40237 - wings
Message 15
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=MmYqit8j7ygO0Y/15Bf9nekKG8JI+33+ph29g1fd0ZQF5x2tNPHSg96nB35NgtPWmo0igFvGYoN69PA36qTYrFo7P4ChmHSILfyYSZ6UYVxh+1wxox6pCgiHOYWNmz560AjG+3paDiDlTbYeWoQUBynVoKY+ZYHaO5qtTZccNd0=
;
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Here is a link where I demonstrate using a 3/32
Burraway tool.
https://home.comcast.net/~sfdarton/RV10_movies/Burraway_2.avi
This is deburring both sides of the hole in one pass
and the back side of this rear elevator spar would be
very difficult to deburr by conventional means. You
can see how quick it is. I deburr nearly every single
hole with these tools. I have yet to notice the
sharpness beginning to dull. I've completed the tail
section, wing spars and am now beginning the wing
ribs. They are expensive for such a
small tool but I would never want to build a metal
airplane without one. I have some extra larger size
burraway tools I would part with very reasonably.
Steve #40212 (801)0971-1009
--- "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
> Thanks for pointing out the neutral blade. There
> are a lot of builders
> looking forward to your report. Be sure and remind
> them when you get to
> the wings as to its value.
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Robert G.
> Wright
> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 8:21 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Here's my follow up to this.
>
>
>
> I ordered the 3/32 and the 1/8 Burraways on
> Wednesday (make sure you get
> the neutral blade for aluminum) from SC. They
> arrived in Enterprise, AL
> this evening, Friday via ground UPS. Cost was
> somewhere around $75 for
> both parts, not sure what shipping was. Can't wait
> to try them out on
> the VS skin tomorrow.
>
>
>
> Rob Wright
>
> 40392
>
> VS skeleton and skin clecoed
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 7:18 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Cogsdill Tool Products, Inc.
>
> PO Box 7007
>
> Camden, SC 29020-7007
>
> 803-438-4000 or
>
> 803-438-5263
>
> Email cogsdill@cogsdill.com
>
>
>
> Catalog # 100 U.S. 1-04, "Burraway" Pages 6-11
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Rene Felker
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 1:29 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Where did you get your Burraway tool?
>
>
>
> Rene'
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Jeff
> Carpenter
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 1:51 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Deburring is much more pleasant with the Cogsdill
> Burraway tool.
>
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter
>
> 40304
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 10, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
>
>
> I agree, I will swap dimpling for debur any
> day........of course I am
> just starting on my wings.
>
>
>
> Rene'
>
> N423CF
>
> 40322
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Mani Ravee
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 10:11 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Actually, I did not mind the dimpling at all. Its
> the tedious deburring
> of the holes which get me. I really hate that.
>
> Mani
>
> Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
Find restaurants, movies, travel and more fun for the weekend. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/weekend.html
Message 16
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Subject: | FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "James Ochs" <jochs@froody.org>
Looks like someone got a -10 in the air today for those of you who haven't
seen this....
James
#40400
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
Subject: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Congradulations John Nys on your first fight of an RV-10.
>From the SoCAL-RVList at yahoogroups
------- insert --------
From: Kevin Osborn <kosborn_2000@yahoo.com>
Subject: History kosborn_2000
Hi all,
I wanted to let you know I witnessed history today for
the RV world.
Today for 20 minutes the first customer built RV-10
flew today at KO38, Owasso, OK.
The plane N3146S owned and piloted by John Nyes flew
today. He confirmed with Van's yesterday that He
would be the first.
I got some great video. If someone has someplace to
post it I can send it to you. I don't know what it
will look like reduced to 5 mb.
Anyway, there should be another 10 in Oregon that will
fly in about 2 weeks.
Kevin
------- end insert -------
Do Not Archive
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,668 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
Message 17
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My thoughts, such as they are, regarding the Burraway tools:
Buy them, 3/32 and 1/8. (This advice is from probably one of the smaller
budgeted ones on the list. Saving all I can for the panel.)
Either the blade on my 3/32 is a smidge too small or the drill that I was
using was a smidge too big, but I found that I needed to pass the 3/32
through the holes more slowly in order to do a good job of deburring the
hole, i.e. without leaving part of the burr there. I had to pass the 1/8
through the holes at "combat speed," or the speed one would hope to use with
these near-wonder tools. If I passed the 1/8 through too slowly it would
start to countersink the hole. This is the exact result I'm after: You have
to go fast to do a good job!
I'll try to remember to use a different jobber #40 drill bit on my next
round of holes. The 3/32 Burraway may work more to what I'm after. YMMV
Rob Wright
#392
VS 70% complete
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Actually, I've been using these since I started (finished with the HS) and I
love them. My favorite thing to do is chuck it up in the drill press and go
to town on things like ribs and spars. I had all of the HS ribs deburred in
something like 15 minutes.
Michael
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Thanks for pointing out the neutral blade. There are a lot of builders
looking forward to your report. Be sure and remind them when you get to the
wings as to its value.
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Here's my follow up to this.
I ordered the 3/32 and the 1/8 Burraways on Wednesday (make sure you get the
neutral blade for aluminum) from SC. They arrived in Enterprise, AL this
evening, Friday via ground UPS. Cost was somewhere around $75 for both
parts, not sure what shipping was. Can't wait to try them out on the VS
skin tomorrow.
Rob Wright
40392
VS skeleton and skin clecoed
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Cogsdill Tool Products, Inc.
PO Box 7007
Camden, SC 29020-7007
803-438-4000 or
803-438-5263
Email cogsdill@cogsdill.com
Catalog # 100 U.S. 1-04, "Burraway" Pages 6-11
John Cox
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Where did you get your Burraway tool?
Rene'
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: WTB:
Deburring is much more pleasant with the Cogsdill Burraway tool.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 10, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
I agree, I will swap dimpling for debur any day....of course I am just
starting on my wings.
Rene'
N423CF
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Actually, I did not mind the dimpling at all. Its the tedious deburring of
the holes which get me. I really hate that.
Mani
Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net> wrote:
Message 18
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=KOHJwEIFZZ2g3fTxHOOT2Gpw96r31/Y9fnuEdM8Sct0EfWYX4bfvYhluF2YzyReduvg+XEfvTFUmEPOkCvw9oqL9Qk8MEuQBDy+SMJ5Je0Aoz+EO533RXo+HnxpipsOgQb2fImiE3sQpe77wQpaRjeoWhTBBhM9mDwA8pu4HWoA=
;
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Robert,
Or any one using a Burraway, The tension on the blade
is very adjustable. In the base of the tool is a set
screw. Turn it out all the way then turn it three
turns. This should get your adjustment close, play
with it to fine tune the amount it cuts to suit your
preference. Once it's adjusted I don't have to play
with the adjustment any more. The technique I use to
deburr any size hole is relatively the same, or in
other words one size burraway cuts no more
aggressively than any other. I set mine so that two
revolutions does the job.
Steve #40212
--- "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
wrote:
> My thoughts, such as they are, regarding the
> Burraway tools:
>
>
>
> Buy them, 3/32 and 1/8. (This advice is from
> probably one of the smaller
> budgeted ones on the list. Saving all I can for the
> panel.)
>
>
>
> Either the blade on my 3/32 is a smidge too small or
> the drill that I was
> using was a smidge too big, but I found that I
> needed to pass the 3/32
> through the holes more slowly in order to do a good
> job of deburring the
> hole, i.e. without leaving part of the burr there.
> I had to pass the 1/8
> through the holes at "combat speed," or the speed
> one would hope to use with
> these near-wonder tools. If I passed the 1/8
> through too slowly it would
> start to countersink the hole. This is the exact
> result I'm after: You have
> to go fast to do a good job!
>
>
>
> I'll try to remember to use a different jobber #40
> drill bit on my next
> round of holes. The 3/32 Burraway may work more to
> what I'm after. YMMV
>
>
>
> Rob Wright
>
> #392
>
> VS 70% complete
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 1:58 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Actually, I've been using these since I started
> (finished with the HS) and I
> love them. My favorite thing to do is chuck it up
> in the drill press and go
> to town on things like ribs and spars. I had all of
> the HS ribs deburred in
> something like 15 minutes.
>
>
>
> Michael
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 9:54 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
> Thanks for pointing out the neutral blade. There
> are a lot of builders
> looking forward to your report. Be sure and remind
> them when you get to the
> wings as to its value.
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 8:21 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Here's my follow up to this.
>
>
>
> I ordered the 3/32 and the 1/8 Burraways on
> Wednesday (make sure you get the
> neutral blade for aluminum) from SC. They arrived
> in Enterprise, AL this
> evening, Friday via ground UPS. Cost was somewhere
> around $75 for both
> parts, not sure what shipping was. Can't wait to
> try them out on the VS
> skin tomorrow.
>
>
>
> Rob Wright
>
> 40392
>
> VS skeleton and skin clecoed
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 7:18 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Cogsdill Tool Products, Inc.
>
> PO Box 7007
>
> Camden, SC 29020-7007
>
> 803-438-4000 or
>
> 803-438-5263
>
> Email cogsdill@cogsdill.com
>
>
>
> Catalog # 100 U.S. 1-04, "Burraway" Pages 6-11
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Rene Felker
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 1:29 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Where did you get your Burraway tool?
>
>
>
> Rene'
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 1:51 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Deburring is much more pleasant with the Cogsdill
> Burraway tool.
>
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter
>
> 40304
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 10, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
=== message truncated ===
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