Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:49 AM - Ready to Prime (John Jessen)
2. 05:33 AM - Re: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System? (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Randy DeBauw)
3. 07:16 AM - Re: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System? (DejaVu)
4. 07:27 AM - Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
5. 07:30 AM - Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 (Buhwana)
6. 07:34 AM - Re: Ready to Prime (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
7. 08:03 AM - Re: Ready to Prime (LarryRosen@comcast.net)
8. 08:13 AM - Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits (brian bollaert)
9. 08:26 AM - Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits (brian bollaert)
10. 08:47 AM - Re: RV-10 Wiring kit from Van's (Jesse Saint)
11. 09:21 AM - Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits (Tim Olson)
12. 09:25 AM - Re: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 (Tim Olson)
13. 09:34 AM - Re: Ready to Prime (James Ochs)
14. 09:40 AM - Re: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
15. 09:50 AM - Re: Ready to Prime (Darton Steve)
16. 10:00 AM - Re: Ready to Prime (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
17. 10:07 AM - Re: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
18. 10:14 AM - Re: Ready to Prime (Dj Merrill)
19. 10:21 AM - Re: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
20. 10:22 AM - Weather watch for first flight. (Randy DeBauw)
21. 10:54 AM - Re: Parking brake / brake bleeding (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
22. 10:55 AM - Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit (Tim Olson)
23. 10:59 AM - Re: Parking brake / brake bleeding (Randy DeBauw)
24. 11:00 AM - Re: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 (Randy DeBauw)
25. 11:03 AM - Re: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System? (Scott Schmidt)
26. 11:03 AM - Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit Photos (Randy DeBauw)
27. 11:11 AM - Re: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
28. 11:23 AM - Re: Parking brake / brake bleeding (Tim Olson)
29. 11:30 AM - Re: Ready to Prime (John Jessen)
30. 11:30 AM - Re: Ready to Prime (John Jessen)
31. 11:36 AM - Re: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 (Tim Olson)
32. 11:56 AM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (Sean Stephens)
33. 12:05 PM - Re: Ready to Prime (matronix.rv10@4sythe.com)
34. 12:06 PM - Re: Ready to Prime (Dj Merrill)
35. 12:27 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (Randy DeBauw)
36. 12:29 PM - Re: Parking brake / brake bleeding (Scott Schmidt)
37. 12:33 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
38. 12:58 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (Wayne Edgerton)
39. 01:05 PM - Re: Ready to Prime (Tim Olson)
40. 01:10 PM - Re: Parking brake / brake bleeding (Darton Steve)
41. 01:11 PM - Re: Ready to Prime (Darton Steve)
42. 01:25 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
43. 02:38 PM - Re: Parking brake / brake bleeding (linn walters)
44. 02:53 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (Jim Combs)
45. 03:00 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (Jesse Saint)
46. 03:34 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
47. 03:38 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (Randy DeBauw)
48. 04:03 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (John Jessen)
49. 04:29 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (Tim Olson)
50. 05:14 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (Jim Combs)
51. 05:34 PM - Re: Ready to Prime - Newer Rattle Products (Bill Schlatterer)
52. 05:56 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight (BBreckenridge@att.net)
53. 07:14 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
54. 07:20 PM - Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit Photos (brian bollaert)
55. 07:21 PM - Re: rattle can primer (Robert G. Wright)
56. 07:33 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (brian bollaert)
57. 07:42 PM - Re: Weather watch for first flight. (Robert G. Wright)
58. 07:43 PM - Re: rattle can primer (Robert G. Wright)
59. 08:04 PM - Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit (Tim Olson)
60. 08:20 PM - Re: rattle can primer (Rene)
61. 08:40 PM - Re: rattle can primer (Dj Merrill)
62. 08:48 PM - Re: rattle can primer (Dj Merrill)
63. 08:54 PM - Re: rattle can primer (Sean Stephens)
64. 10:02 PM - Re: rattle can primer (Greg Young)
Message 1
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Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the air,
I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$%
& confused about
what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace and buy some
Rustoleum.
Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take.
The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, the
minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. This
saves time all around, as well as weight.
The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps variprime,
and shoot everything.
The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy of
some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty stuff or
the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the aluminum forever
more using something like AKZO.
I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the extra time
and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't penetrate, giving
up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better resale value down the
road. My question has to do with preparation. I'd rather use something
that is as environmentally friendly as possible, but as long as I'm going to
all the trouble, I don't want to use something unproven. I realize there
are no correct answers, but would very much appreciate any input in terms of
either effectiveness given your experience or knowledge of such things, or
the ease of preparation and clean up.
Thanks in advance,
John Jessen
-> Empcone (2%)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated
Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op
Limitations in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight.
Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a
lot. Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I
have changed my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours
without leaning. Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the
comments. Randy <<N610RV Checklists.doc>>
Message 2
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| Subject: | FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System? |
Which is "better" to have? Is there a choice or not?
TDT
40025
________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
Anh, you got the Vetterman. I have the Aerospace something. Vetterman is what
Doug Pederson has. I think 410RV has the Vetterman on it now. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
I inventoried my FWF kit today and my Vetterman Exhaust System (IO540) does not
look like what the intructions or Randy's pictures show. I have 2 separate heat
shrouds each with a tail pipe at one end and a 3-to-1 at the other. Of course
there are 2 flanges on the side of each shroud for in/out scat tubes. These
shrouds appear to have been made to run longitudinally alongside the induction
system. The intructions show one big shroud positioned laterally aft of
the induction system with only one tail pipe. I haven't trial fitted them on
the engine yet because without an achilles tendon on one leg does not allow me
to do much. I also have taken a lot of pain killer which makes me woozie but
I'm sure I don't have the right exhaust system.
Anh
#141
(Finish kit on standby)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@mail.ameritel.net>
Randy implied that 410RV made a change so I hope that it was for the better.
Only thing I can imagine that would improve is better access to the back of
the engine. I would like to have a set of install instructions for the
Vetterman vice the other one though.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
Which is "better" to have? Is there a choice or not?
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
Anh, you got the Vetterman. I have the Aerospace something. Vetterman is
what Doug Pederson has. I think 410RV has the Vetterman on it now. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
I inventoried my FWF kit today and my Vetterman Exhaust System (IO540) does
not look like what the intructions or Randy's pictures show. I have 2
separate heat shrouds each with a tail pipe at one end and a 3-to-1 at the
other. Of course there are 2 flanges on the side of each shroud for in/out
scat tubes. These shrouds appear to have been made to run longitudinally
alongside the induction system. The intructions show one big shroud
positioned laterally aft of the induction system with only one tail pipe. I
haven't trial fitted them on the engine yet because without an achilles
tendon on one leg does not allow me to do much. I also have taken a lot of
pain killer which makes me woozie but I'm sure I don't have the right
exhaust system.
Anh
#141
(Finish kit on standby)
---
Message 4
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| Subject: | Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Brian,
Were you able to post the pic? If so, where?
Thanks.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
bollaert
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
<bbollaert@comcast.net>
Hello Bob:
Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more
you
bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult
to
get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon .
Brian Bollaert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the
> motivation simply to reduce the number of bends?
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> bollaert
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
> <bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
> Morning Tim:
>
> Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that
were
> called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you
have
> the
> nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold
the
> brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side
line
> i
> changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
> connection under left & right seat however there was much less
bending
> of
> the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a
pic.
>
> Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc ,
> still
> figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only
1
> conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How
> about
> your panel ?
>
> Brian Bollaert
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
> > Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor
> panels...
> > some got them, some didn't.
> >
> > Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge
> things
> > under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per
side.
> > K1000-3.
> >
> > Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of
2.
> >
> > I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was
missing
> > 4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
> > people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
> > nutplates.
> >
> > Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
> > verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
> > out at the last minute.
> >
> > Tim
> > --
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> > Current project: Fuselage
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
5/17/2005
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
Message 5
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d="scan'217,208"; a="1125513546:sNHT19231648"
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 |
Tim,
Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the
pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the
checklist. This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer
group and after checking it depended on the model year!
tom (soon to be an Rver
On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for
> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill
> it if you turn it on in the air.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
Message 6
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John, Take a look at my photos on Tim's site. WWW.MYRV10.Com. You will see what
PPG 1791 looks like. It is very light, dries quick, 20 min. 1 1/2 gal will
do the whole plane. Before you prime just wipe clean with Acetone and shoot.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV10-List: Ready to Prime
Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the air, I'm ready
to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$%
& confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace and buy
some Rustoleum.
Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take.
The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, the minimum
being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. This saves time
all around, as well as weight.
The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps variprime, and
shoot everything.
The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy of some type,
including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty stuff or the more environmentally
friendly stuff, then encase the aluminum forever more using something
like AKZO.
I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the extra time and
effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't penetrate, giving up the
extra weight and hoping it gives it a better resale value down the road. My
question has to do with preparation. I'd rather use something that is as environmentally
friendly as possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble,
I don't want to use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers,
but would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness
given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of preparation
and clean up.
Thanks in advance,
John Jessen
-> Empcone (2%)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated
Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op Limitations
in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight.
Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a lot.
Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I have changed
my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours without leaning.
Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the comments. Randy
<<N610RV Checklists.doc>>
Message 7
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|
What are you quick builders doing? Are you just leaving Vans assembled parts as
is and then priming all the additional parts?
Larry
QB Wings on the way
-------------- Original message --------------
John, Take a look at my photos on Tim's site. WWW.MYRV10.Com. You will see what
PPG 1791 looks like. It is very light, dries quick, 20 min. 1 1/2 gal will
do the whole plane. Before you prime just wipe clean with Acetone and shoot.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Ready to Prime
Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the air, I'm ready
to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$%
& confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace and buy
some Rustoleum.
Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take.
The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, the minimum
being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. This saves time
all around, as well as weight.
The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps variprime, and
shoot everything.
The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy of some type,
including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty stuff or the more environmentally
friendly stuff, then encase the aluminum forever more using something
like AKZO.
I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the extra time and
effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't penetrate, giving up the
extra weight and hoping it gives it a better resale value down the road. My
question has to do with preparation. I'd rather use something that is as environmentally
friendly as possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble,
I don't want to use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers,
but would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness
given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of preparation
and clean up.
Thanks in advance,
John Jessen
-> Empcone (2%)
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated
Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op Limitations
in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight.
Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a lot.
Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I have changed
my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours without leaning.
Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the comments. Randy
<<N610RV Checklists.doc>>
What are you quick builders doing? Are you just leaving Vans assembled parts as
is and then priming all the additional parts?
Larry
QB Wings on the way
-------------- Original message --------------
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1498" name=GENERATOR>
John, Take a look at my photos on Tim's site. WWW.MYRV10.Com. You will see what
PPG 1791 looks like. It is very light, dries quick, 20 min. 1 1/2 gal will do
thewhole plane. Before you prime just wipe clean withAcetone and shoot. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Ready to Prime
Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the air, I'm ready
to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$%
confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace and buy some
Rustoleum.
Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take.
The first is to use aself etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, the minimum
being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. This saves time all
around, as well as weight.
The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps variprime, and
shoot everything.
The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy of some type,
including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty stuff or the more environmentally
friendly stuff, then encase the aluminum forever more using something
like AKZO.
I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO,spending the extra time and
effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't penetrate, giving up the
extra weight and hoping it gives it a better resale value down the road. My
question has to do withpreparation.I'd rather use something that is as environmentally
friendly as possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I
don't want to use something unproven.I realize there are no correct answers, but
wouldvery much appreciateany input in terms of either effectiveness given your
experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of preparation and clean
up.
Thanks in advance,
John Jessen
- Empcone (2%)
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated
<!-- Converted from text/rtf format -->
Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op Limitations
in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight.
Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a lot. Boost
pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I have changed
my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours without leaning.
Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the comments. Randy N610RV
Checklists.doc
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits |
Hi Bob:
sent them late yesterday afternoon , not shure what happened (lets try
again )
Brian Bollaert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Brian,
>
> Were you able to post the pic? If so, where?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> bollaert
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
> <bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
> Hello Bob:
>
> Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more
> you
> bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult
> to
> get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> >
> > I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the
> > motivation simply to reduce the number of bends?
> >
> > Bob #40105
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> > bollaert
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
> > <bbollaert@comcast.net>
> >
> > Morning Tim:
> >
> > Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that
> were
> > called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you
> have
> > the
> > nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold
> the
> > brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side
> line
> > i
> > changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
> > connection under left & right seat however there was much less
> bending
> > of
> > the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a
> pic.
> >
> > Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc ,
> > still
> > figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only
> 1
> > conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How
> > about
> > your panel ?
> >
> > Brian Bollaert
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> > To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM
> > Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> >
> >
> > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> > >
> > > Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
> > > Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor
> > panels...
> > > some got them, some didn't.
> > >
> > > Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge
> > things
> > > under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per
> side.
> > > K1000-3.
> > >
> > > Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of
> 2.
> > >
> > > I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was
> missing
> > > 4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
> > > people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
> > > nutplates.
> > >
> > > Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
> > > verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
> > > out at the last minute.
> > >
> > > Tim
> > > --
> > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> > > Current project: Fuselage
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> 5/17/2005
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits |
Hi Bob:
lets try agian
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Brian,
>
> Were you able to post the pic? If so, where?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> bollaert
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
> <bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
> Hello Bob:
>
> Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more
> you
> bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult
> to
> get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> >
> > I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the
> > motivation simply to reduce the number of bends?
> >
> > Bob #40105
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> > bollaert
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
> > <bbollaert@comcast.net>
> >
> > Morning Tim:
> >
> > Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that
> were
> > called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you
> have
> > the
> > nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold
> the
> > brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side
> line
> > i
> > changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
> > connection under left & right seat however there was much less
> bending
> > of
> > the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a
> pic.
> >
> > Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc ,
> > still
> > figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only
> 1
> > conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How
> > about
> > your panel ?
> >
> > Brian Bollaert
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> > To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM
> > Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> >
> >
> > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> > >
> > > Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
> > > Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor
> > panels...
> > > some got them, some didn't.
> > >
> > > Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge
> > things
> > > under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per
> side.
> > > K1000-3.
> > >
> > > Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of
> 2.
> > >
> > > I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was
> missing
> > > 4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
> > > people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
> > > nutplates.
> > >
> > > Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
> > > verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
> > > out at the last minute.
> > >
> > > Tim
> > > --
> > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> > > Current project: Fuselage
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> 5/17/2005
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
>
>
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | RV-10 Wiring kit from Van's |
We have our wiring harness from Van's on order, but it hasn't arrived yet.
I will let ya'll know how we like it when it comes.
#241 Finishing/FWF/Wiring
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strickland, L
Jearl
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Wiring kit from Van's
Greetings...
Does anyone have any input on the wiring kit that Van's offers for $560?
thanks....Jearl Strickland # 214 "fuselage"
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Brian just emailed me the pictures. As soon as I can slow down
and look at them I'll email you guys some links so you can take
a peek.
Sorry for the delay....
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Brian,
>
> Were you able to post the pic? If so, where?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> bollaert
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
> <bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
> Hello Bob:
>
> Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more
> you
> bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult
> to
> get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
>>I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the
>>motivation simply to reduce the number of bends?
>>
>>Bob #40105
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
>>bollaert
>>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
>><bbollaert@comcast.net>
>>
>>Morning Tim:
>>
>>Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that
>
> were
>
>>called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you
>
> have
>
>>the
>>nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold
>
> the
>
>>brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side
>
> line
>
>>i
>>changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
>>connection under left & right seat however there was much less
>
> bending
>
>>of
>>the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a
>
> pic.
>
>>Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc ,
>>still
>>figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only
>
> 1
>
>>conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How
>>about
>>your panel ?
>>
>>Brian Bollaert
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM
>>Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>
>>>Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
>>>Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor
>>
>>panels...
>>
>>>some got them, some didn't.
>>>
>>>Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge
>>
>>things
>>
>>>under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per
>
> side.
>
>>>K1000-3.
>>>
>>>Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of
>
> 2.
>
>>>I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was
>
> missing
>
>>>4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
>>>people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
>>>nutplates.
>>>
>>>Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
>>>verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
>>>out at the last minute.
>>>
>>>Tim
>>>--
>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>>Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>--
>
> 5/17/2005
>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>--
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew
I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the
older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But,
the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe
it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while)
I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to
the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on.
Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by
model.
You gonna be a -10 builder too?
Tim
PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes.
If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them
as a kit, I'd be thrilled!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Buhwana wrote:
> Tim,
> Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the
> pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist.
> This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after
> checking it depended on the model year!
> tom (soon to be an Rver
> On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
>
>> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for
>>
>> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill
>>
>> it if you turn it on in the air.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ready to Prime |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Hi John,
Another option is what I am using, the sanchem products. Here's my take
on it:
http://www.froody.org/html/index.php?module=ContentExpress&file=index&func=display&ceid=1&meid=3
The stuff is very easy to use, easy to clean up and environmentally
friendly. There's a few photos of putting it on under the construction
photos link on my page. The most time consuming / difficult part about
this set of products is the scotchbrite/cleaning step, but that is
probably true of all of them.
Their site is http://www.sanchem.com, and they have some data on testing
they have done vs. alodine and other products.
HTH,
James
John Jessen wrote:
> Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the
> air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$%
&
> confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace
> and buy some Rustoleum.
> Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take.
> The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum,
> the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing.
> This saves time all around, as well as weight.
> The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps
> variprime, and shoot everything.
> The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy
> of some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty
> stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the
> aluminum forever more using something like AKZO.
> I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the
> extra time and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't
> penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better
> resale value down the road. My question has to do with preparation.
> I'd rather use something that is as environmentally friendly as
> possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I don't want to
> use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers, but
> would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness
> given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of
> preparation and clean up.
> Thanks in advance,
> John Jessen
> -> Empcone (2%)
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Randy
> DeBauw
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 18, 2005 4:01 PM
> *To:* Rv10-List (E-mail)
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Check list updated
>
> Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate
> and Op Limitations in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first
> flight.
>
> Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he
> flies a lot. Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off
> during climb out. I have changed my checklist so show the same. I
> will fly the first few hours without leaning. Help in cooling
> during break-in. Thanks for all of the comments. Randy <<N610RV
> Checklists.doc>>
>
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself
at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was surprised
the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while installing the
brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by the time we realized
we wanted it . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew
I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the
older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But,
the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe
it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while)
I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to
the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on.
Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by
model.
You gonna be a -10 builder too?
Tim
PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes.
If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them
as a kit, I'd be thrilled!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Buhwana wrote:
> Tim,
> Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the
> pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist.
> This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after
> checking it depended on the model year!
> tom (soon to be an Rver
> On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
>
>> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for
>>
>> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill
>>
>> it if you turn it on in the air.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>
Message 15
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|
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=O5QWU4tJlvRJGMBtK7RqsiSoVBUYm7cEz+gmD+0O50tMAcHFv5HgaO1xGYN4kYra/2HsRpQ2bWtdmrDwIhFeHe7rG9eEM6sC7kPLXQbApx3z1lo8yzl626MsCm5lV9oalc1sY+YnKKHL271Tf6DUXJcen9cPc0ILwNzrAUkvTVQ=
;
| Subject: | Re: Ready to Prime |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
If your primer doesn't seal, all you have accomplished
is to destroy the ALCLAD surface and cover it with a
porous primer coating (like rattle can primer) that
will allow moisture nearly direct contact with your
now ALCLAD removed part. That seems to me to be an
uninformed waste of time and money. An example of a
non-sealing primer providing protection for your part
would be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a
sacrificial coating on the outside of your part. Those
primers are toxic AND carcinogenic. There is no easy
or simple solution. Don't just prime with anything
believing you have improved corrosion resistance.
Steve #40212 wings
--- John Jessen <jjessen@rcn.com> wrote:
> Well, the week of the first few customer built
> RV-10's taking to the air,
> I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so
> #$%
& confused about
> what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to
> Ace and buy some
> Rustoleum.
>
> Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take.
>
> The first is to use a self etching primer and
> perhaps do the minimum, the
> minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to
> do its thing. This
> saves time all around, as well as weight.
>
> The second is to use a more traditional priming
> approach, perhaps variprime,
> and shoot everything.
>
> The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that
> is to use an epoxy of
> some type, including a complete pretreatment of
> either the nasty stuff or
> the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase
> the aluminum forever
> more using something like AKZO.
>
> I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO,
> spending the extra time
> and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air
> doesn't penetrate, giving
> up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better
> resale value down the
> road. My question has to do with preparation. I'd
> rather use something
> that is as environmentally friendly as possible, but
> as long as I'm going to
> all the trouble, I don't want to use something
> unproven. I realize there
> are no correct answers, but would very much
> appreciate any input in terms of
> either effectiveness given your experience or
> knowledge of such things, or
> the ease of preparation and clean up.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John Jessen
> -> Empcone (2%)
>
Message 16
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I would highly highly recommend the Sherwin Williams 988 "rattle can".
It works great.
Tons of RV builders have used and it sure makes building faster when you
don't have to mix.
Scott Schmidt (#40111 - Firewall Forward)
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
________________________________
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Ready to Prime
Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the
air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$%
& confused
about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace and buy some
Rustoleum.
Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take.
The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum,
the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing.
This saves time all around, as well as weight.
The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps
variprime, and shoot everything.
The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy of
some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty stuff
or the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the aluminum
forever more using something like AKZO.
I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the extra
time and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't
penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better
resale value down the road. My question has to do with preparation.
I'd rather use something that is as environmentally friendly as
possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I don't want to
use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers, but
would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness
given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of
preparation and clean up.
Thanks in advance,
John Jessen
-> Empcone (2%)
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 4:01 PM
To: Rv10-List (E-mail)
Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated
Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness
Certificate and Op Limitations in hand. Friday is still looking OK for
first flight.
Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he
flies a lot. Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during
climb out. I have changed my checklist so show the same. I will fly
the first few hours without leaning. Help in cooling during break-in.
Thanks for all of the comments. Randy <<N610RV Checklists.doc>>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I didn't install one. I heard enough complaints about them the I will try it without.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was surprised
the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while installing the
brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by the time we realized
we wanted it . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew
I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the
older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But,
the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe
it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while)
I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to
the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on.
Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by
model.
You gonna be a -10 builder too?
Tim
PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes.
If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them
as a kit, I'd be thrilled!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Buhwana wrote:
> Tim,
> Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the
> pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist.
> This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after
> checking it depended on the model year!
> tom (soon to be an Rver
> On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
>
>> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for
>>
>> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill
>>
>> it if you turn it on in the air.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Ready to Prime |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
John Jessen wrote:
> The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum,
> the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing.
> This saves time all around, as well as weight.
>
Fourth option, which is what I am doing, is using
a self etching primer in a rattle can (Sherwin Williams 988)
and prime everything on the interior.
-Dj
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Yikes! What kind of complaints? I had heard good things from my small sample
. . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I didn't install one. I heard enough complaints about them the I will try it without.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was surprised
the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while installing the
brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by the time we realized
we wanted it . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew
I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the
older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But,
the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe
it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while)
I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to
the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on.
Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by
model.
You gonna be a -10 builder too?
Tim
PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes.
If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them
as a kit, I'd be thrilled!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Buhwana wrote:
> Tim,
> Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the
> pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist.
> This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after
> checking it depended on the model year!
> tom (soon to be an Rver
> On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
>
>> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for
>>
>> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill
>>
>> it if you turn it on in the air.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Weather watch for first flight. |
I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the day. Weather
is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little better. I am taking
the day off and will be waiting to see what happens. If winds are above 5 kts
I will wait till later in the day or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose
to be much better with good weather all next week. You can take a look at
the airport weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the conditions
are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you have digital
of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for easy transfer to
the net. Randy
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Parking brake / brake bleeding |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
I did. It was really quite simple to install. I still need to order
the cable for it.
It seems to work great. I have set it overnight and it is still holding
in the morning.
One thing I would like some help on though is bleeding the brakes. Does
anyone know a good procedure out there? I have attached the device on
the brake end that attaches the air compressor and causes a vacuum so
you don't get any air bubbles and then I have cycled the brakes while
someone keeps the reservoir full. I have done this three times now and
have gone through about half a gallon of synthetic brake fluid and I
keep getting bubbles in the lines you can see between the pilot and
copilot. I just think they aren't being worked out. The next thing I
am going to try if no one else has any ideas was to create pressure on
the reservoir and force the brake fluid through the system to see if I
can get the bubbles out.
The brakes feel solid though even though even with the bubbles but I am
still going to work on getting them out. Any help would be great.
Here is a shot of my parking brake.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was
surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while
installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by
the time we realized we wanted it . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew
I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the
older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But,
the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe
it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while)
I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to
the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on.
Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by
model.
You gonna be a -10 builder too?
Tim
PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes.
If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them
as a kit, I'd be thrilled!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Buhwana wrote:
> Tim,
> Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the
> pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the
checklist.
> This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and
after
> checking it depended on the model year!
> tom (soon to be an Rver
> On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
>
>> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for
>>
>> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill
>>
>> it if you turn it on in the air.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>
Message 22
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|
Photos
| Subject: | Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit |
Photos
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I have now posted Brian's Fuel line photos so you can see them.
Brian, if something isn't right, just let me know.
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/BrianBollaert/fuel_lines/index.html
At the same time, I updated my site to show the Inner Duct conduit
that I got yesterday. Last night I installed it and I think it's
going to be fantastic for running the wires to the tailcone.
Here are some photos:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050517/index.html
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Brian,
>
> Were you able to post the pic? If so, where?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> bollaert
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
> <bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
> Hello Bob:
>
> Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more
> you
> bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult
> to
> get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
>>I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the
>>motivation simply to reduce the number of bends?
>>
>>Bob #40105
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
>>bollaert
>>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
>><bbollaert@comcast.net>
>>
>>Morning Tim:
>>
>>Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that
>
> were
>
>>called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you
>
> have
>
>>the
>>nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold
>
> the
>
>>brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side
>
> line
>
>>i
>>changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
>>connection under left & right seat however there was much less
>
> bending
>
>>of
>>the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a
>
> pic.
>
>>Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc ,
>>still
>>figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only
>
> 1
>
>>conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How
>>about
>>your panel ?
>>
>>Brian Bollaert
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM
>>Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>
>>>Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
>>>Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor
>>
>>panels...
>>
>>>some got them, some didn't.
>>>
>>>Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge
>>
>>things
>>
>>>under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per
>
> side.
>
>>>K1000-3.
>>>
>>>Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of
>
> 2.
>
>>>I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was
>
> missing
>
>>>4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
>>>people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
>>>nutplates.
>>>
>>>Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
>>>verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
>>>out at the last minute.
>>>
>>>Tim
>>>--
>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>>Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Parking brake / brake bleeding |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I bleed the brakes from the bottom up. It was easy that way and you could watch
the bubbles leave to the reservoir. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Parking brake / brake bleeding
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
I did. It was really quite simple to install. I still need to order
the cable for it.
It seems to work great. I have set it overnight and it is still holding
in the morning.
One thing I would like some help on though is bleeding the brakes. Does
anyone know a good procedure out there? I have attached the device on
the brake end that attaches the air compressor and causes a vacuum so
you don't get any air bubbles and then I have cycled the brakes while
someone keeps the reservoir full. I have done this three times now and
have gone through about half a gallon of synthetic brake fluid and I
keep getting bubbles in the lines you can see between the pilot and
copilot. I just think they aren't being worked out. The next thing I
am going to try if no one else has any ideas was to create pressure on
the reservoir and force the brake fluid through the system to see if I
can get the bubbles out.
The brakes feel solid though even though even with the bubbles but I am
still going to work on getting them out. Any help would be great.
Here is a shot of my parking brake.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was
surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while
installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by
the time we realized we wanted it . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew
I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the
older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But,
the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe
it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while)
I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to
the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on.
Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by
model.
You gonna be a -10 builder too?
Tim
PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes.
If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them
as a kit, I'd be thrilled!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Buhwana wrote:
> Tim,
> Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the
> pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the
checklist.
> This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and
after
> checking it depended on the model year!
> tom (soon to be an Rver
> On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
>
>> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for
>>
>> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill
>>
>> it if you turn it on in the air.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I would get on the other list and do a search for parking brakes. I have heard
things like leaking valves and sticking valves. I am no expert and have not investigated
it much. I may have only talked to the few people that had some problems.
Besides wheel chalks is what the wife is for. I figure I built the plane
and flew it there the least she can do is get out and chalk the wheels while
I hold the brakes... Just kidding honey. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Yikes! What kind of complaints? I had heard good things from my small sample
. . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I didn't install one. I heard enough complaints about them the I will try it without.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was surprised
the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while installing the
brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by the time we realized
we wanted it . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew
I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the
older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But,
the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe
it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while)
I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to
the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on.
Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by
model.
You gonna be a -10 builder too?
Tim
PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes.
If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them
as a kit, I'd be thrilled!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Buhwana wrote:
> Tim,
> Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the
> pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist.
> This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after
> checking it depended on the model year!
> tom (soon to be an Rver
> On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
>
>> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for
>>
>> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill
>>
>> it if you turn it on in the air.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System? |
I talked to both Van's and the guy at Vetterman about this issue.
Vetterman says his makes more power and the heat works better as well,
and Van's says they both make about the same power but the Aerospace put
out way more heat.
Going forward I have heard that only the Vetterman will be available. I
personally like the look of the Vetterman better.
There probably isn't much difference between the two systems considering
these engines are turning 2700 RPM's. When I ordered my firewall
forward kit I had the option. I don't know if you still do today
though.
Good luck Randy. Have a blast.
Here a couple of pictures comparing the two.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?p172#post172
Scott Schmidt #40111 (FWF)
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
Which is "better" to have? Is there a choice or not?
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
Anh, you got the Vetterman. I have the Aerospace something. Vetterman
is what Doug Pederson has. I think 410RV has the Vetterman on it now.
Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
I inventoried my FWF kit today and my Vetterman Exhaust System (IO540)
does not look like what the intructions or Randy's pictures show. I
have 2 separate heat shrouds each with a tail pipe at one end and a
3-to-1 at the other. Of course there are 2 flanges on the side of each
shroud for in/out scat tubes. These shrouds appear to have been made to
run longitudinally alongside the induction system. The intructions show
one big shroud positioned laterally aft of the induction system with
only one tail pipe. I haven't trial fitted them on the engine yet
because without an achilles tendon on one leg does not allow me to do
much. I also have taken a lot of pain killer which makes me woozie but
I'm sure I don't have the right exhaust system.
Anh
#141
(Finish kit on standby)
Message 26
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| Subject: | Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit Photos |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
The only problem I see is that now the selector is backwards. When pointing to
the left it will be the right tank. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits +
Conduit Photos
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I have now posted Brian's Fuel line photos so you can see them.
Brian, if something isn't right, just let me know.
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/BrianBollaert/fuel_lines/index.html
At the same time, I updated my site to show the Inner Duct conduit
that I got yesterday. Last night I installed it and I think it's
going to be fantastic for running the wires to the tailcone.
Here are some photos:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050517/index.html
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Brian,
>
> Were you able to post the pic? If so, where?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> bollaert
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
> <bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
> Hello Bob:
>
> Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more
> you
> bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult
> to
> get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
>>I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the
>>motivation simply to reduce the number of bends?
>>
>>Bob #40105
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
>>bollaert
>>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
>><bbollaert@comcast.net>
>>
>>Morning Tim:
>>
>>Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that
>
> were
>
>>called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you
>
> have
>
>>the
>>nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold
>
> the
>
>>brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side
>
> line
>
>>i
>>changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
>>connection under left & right seat however there was much less
>
> bending
>
>>of
>>the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a
>
> pic.
>
>>Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc ,
>>still
>>figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only
>
> 1
>
>>conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How
>>about
>>your panel ?
>>
>>Brian Bollaert
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM
>>Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>
>>>Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
>>>Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor
>>
>>panels...
>>
>>>some got them, some didn't.
>>>
>>>Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge
>>
>>things
>>
>>>under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per
>
> side.
>
>>>K1000-3.
>>>
>>>Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of
>
> 2.
>
>>>I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was
>
> missing
>
>>>4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
>>>people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
>>>nutplates.
>>>
>>>Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
>>>verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
>>>out at the last minute.
>>>
>>>Tim
>>>--
>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>>Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
hee hee
Don't forget your wife can pump the gas, too! : )
TDT
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I would get on the other list and do a search for parking brakes. I have heard
things like leaking valves and sticking valves. I am no expert and have not investigated
it much. I may have only talked to the few people that had some problems.
Besides wheel chalks is what the wife is for. I figure I built the plane
and flew it there the least she can do is get out and chalk the wheels while
I hold the brakes... Just kidding honey. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Yikes! What kind of complaints? I had heard good things from my small sample
. . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I didn't install one. I heard enough complaints about them the I will try it without.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was surprised
the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while installing the
brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by the time we realized
we wanted it . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew
I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the
older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But,
the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe
it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while)
I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to
the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on.
Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by
model.
You gonna be a -10 builder too?
Tim
PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes.
If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them
as a kit, I'd be thrilled!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Buhwana wrote:
> Tim,
> Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the
> pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist.
> This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after
> checking it depended on the model year!
> tom (soon to be an Rver
> On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
>
>> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for
>>
>> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill
>>
>> it if you turn it on in the air.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake / brake bleeding |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
My A&P showed me how to bleed brakes on my Beech, and this procedure
worked really well for me:
1) Get a good pump type oil can. (A few bucks at an auto parts store)
2) Get some plastic tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder valve
3) Take the lid off your reservoir (Might want to have someone up there
watch for it to fill so you don't overflow it)
4) Connect the plastic tubing to the hose end of the oil can, and
pump some brake fluid up the tube to the end of the hose.
5) Connect the plastic tubing to the Bleeder valve.
6) Crack the bleeder valve a couple turns and start pumping the fluid
up to the reservoir.
When you're going to stop pumping to refill the can, shut the bleeder
valve tightly first...and don't disconnect the plastic tubing and let
any air in. Just add more fluid to the oil can as necessary, and
crack the valve and start pumping until you work all the air up to
the top. Bubbles like to go UP not down, so that's why this procedure
may help you out. After you get the bubbles out, you should have very
nice stiff brakes.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>
> I did. It was really quite simple to install. I still need to order
> the cable for it.
> It seems to work great. I have set it overnight and it is still holding
> in the morning.
> One thing I would like some help on though is bleeding the brakes. Does
> anyone know a good procedure out there? I have attached the device on
> the brake end that attaches the air compressor and causes a vacuum so
> you don't get any air bubbles and then I have cycled the brakes while
> someone keeps the reservoir full. I have done this three times now and
> have gone through about half a gallon of synthetic brake fluid and I
> keep getting bubbles in the lines you can see between the pilot and
> copilot. I just think they aren't being worked out. The next thing I
> am going to try if no one else has any ideas was to create pressure on
> the reservoir and force the brake fluid through the system to see if I
> can get the bubbles out.
>
> The brakes feel solid though even though even with the bubbles but I am
> still going to work on getting them out. Any help would be great.
>
> Here is a shot of my parking brake.
> http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70
>
> Scott Schmidt
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
> Dawson-Townsend
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:40 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was
> surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while
> installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by
> the time we realized we wanted it . . .
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 12:25 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>
> Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew
> I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the
> older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But,
> the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe
> it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while)
> I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to
> the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on.
> Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by
> model.
>
> You gonna be a -10 builder too?
>
> Tim
>
> PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes.
> If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them
> as a kit, I'd be thrilled!
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> Buhwana wrote:
>
>>Tim,
>>Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the
>>pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the
>
> checklist.
>
>>This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and
>
> after
>
>>checking it depended on the model year!
>>tom (soon to be an Rver
>>On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
>>
>>
>>>The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for
>>>
>>>starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill
>>>
>>>it if you turn it on in the air.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>>
>>>Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>
Message 29
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Very reasonable, so you are saying that either leave the alcad alone or go
with an epoxy?
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ready to Prime
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
If your primer doesn't seal, all you have accomplished is to destroy the
ALCLAD surface and cover it with a porous primer coating (like rattle can
primer) that will allow moisture nearly direct contact with your now ALCLAD
removed part. That seems to me to be an uninformed waste of time and money.
An example of a non-sealing primer providing protection for your part would
be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a sacrificial coating on the outside
of your part. Those primers are toxic AND carcinogenic. There is no easy or
simple solution. Don't just prime with anything believing you have improved
corrosion resistance.
Steve #40212 wings
--- John Jessen <jjessen@rcn.com> wrote:
> Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the
> air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$%
&
> confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace
> and buy some Rustoleum.
>
> Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take.
>
> The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum,
> the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing.
> This saves time all around, as well as weight.
>
> The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps
> variprime, and shoot everything.
>
> The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy
> of some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty
> stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the
> aluminum forever more using something like AKZO.
>
> I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the
> extra time and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't
> penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better
> resale value down the road. My question has to do with preparation.
> I'd rather use something that is as environmentally friendly as
> possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I don't want to
> use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers, but
> would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness
> given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of
> preparation and clean up.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John Jessen
> -> Empcone (2%)
>
Message 30
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Very reasonable, so you are saying that either leave the alcad alone or go
with an epoxy?
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ready to Prime
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
If your primer doesn't seal, all you have accomplished is to destroy the
ALCLAD surface and cover it with a porous primer coating (like rattle can
primer) that will allow moisture nearly direct contact with your now ALCLAD
removed part. That seems to me to be an uninformed waste of time and money.
An example of a non-sealing primer providing protection for your part would
be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a sacrificial coating on the outside
of your part. Those primers are toxic AND carcinogenic. There is no easy or
simple solution. Don't just prime with anything believing you have improved
corrosion resistance.
Steve #40212 wings
--- John Jessen <jjessen@rcn.com> wrote:
> Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the
> air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$%
&
> confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace
> and buy some Rustoleum.
>
> Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take.
>
> The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum,
> the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing.
> This saves time all around, as well as weight.
>
> The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps
> variprime, and shoot everything.
>
> The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy
> of some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty
> stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the
> aluminum forever more using something like AKZO.
>
> I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the
> extra time and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't
> penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better
> resale value down the road. My question has to do with preparation.
> I'd rather use something that is as environmentally friendly as
> possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I don't want to
> use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers, but
> would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness
> given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of
> preparation and clean up.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John Jessen
> -> Empcone (2%)
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I thought the wife was for bucking the rivets on the belly skins, and in
those areas you can't do alone.... Since we have 2 kids, I say
she's the best Mother Bucker around. ;)
Tim
Better do a DO NOT ARCHIVE on that one. <g>
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> I would get on the other list and do a search for parking brakes. I
> have heard things like leaking valves and sticking valves. I am no
> expert and have not investigated it much. I may have only talked to
> the few people that had some problems. Besides wheel chalks is what
> the wife is for. I figure I built the plane and flew it there the
> least she can do is get out and chalk the wheels while I hold the
> brakes... Just kidding honey. Randy
>
> -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
> Dawson-Townsend Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:22 AM To:
> rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest:
> 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> Yikes! What kind of complaints? I had heard good things from my
> small sample . . .
>
> TDT
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Weather watch for first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the
americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring
the digital vid camera... :)
Right, I wish...
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the
> day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little
> better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what
> happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day
> or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with
> good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport
> weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the
> conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you
> have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for
> easy transfer to the net. Randy
>
Message 33
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
This is exactly what I'm doing. SW988 on every internal part and inside
of every skin. After riveting, I usually make a final pass with the
primer (through the lightning holes) to get any scratches that I may
have caused with a bucking bar.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ready to Prime
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
John Jessen wrote:
> The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum,
> the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing.
> This saves time all around, as well as weight.
>
Fourth option, which is what I am doing, is using
a self etching primer in a rattle can (Sherwin Williams 988)
and prime everything on the interior.
-Dj
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ready to Prime |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Darton Steve wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>
> If your primer doesn't seal, all you have accomplished
> is to destroy the ALCLAD surface and cover it with a
> porous primer coating (like rattle can primer) that
> will allow moisture nearly direct contact with your
> now ALCLAD removed part. That seems to me to be an
> uninformed waste of time and money. An example of a
> non-sealing primer providing protection for your part
> would be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a
> sacrificial coating on the outside of your part. Those
> primers are toxic AND carcinogenic. There is no easy
> or simple solution. Don't just prime with anything
> believing you have improved corrosion resistance.
>
> Steve #40212 wings
I admit to being a complete neophyte with regards to
priming. If your last sentence is true, then why
go through the hassle of priming at all? I was planning on
coating the interior with Sherwin Williams 988 self
ething primer in the belief that it would indeed
improve corrosion resistance, but from what I infer
from your post it would be better for me to do nothing,
although that intuitively seems wrong to me
(just my gut feeling, no data to back it up).
Is priming with SW 988 going to make things
worse?
-Dj
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Weather watch for first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll start
off.
Rocket Man.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the
americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring
the digital vid camera... :)
Right, I wish...
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the
> day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little
> better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what
> happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day
> or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with
> good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport
> weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the
> conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you
> have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for
> easy transfer to the net. Randy
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Parking brake / brake bleeding |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
Thanks Tim. I will give this a shot.
Scott Schmidt (#40111)
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking brake / brake bleeding
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
My A&P showed me how to bleed brakes on my Beech, and this procedure
worked really well for me:
1) Get a good pump type oil can. (A few bucks at an auto parts store)
2) Get some plastic tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder valve
3) Take the lid off your reservoir (Might want to have someone up there
watch for it to fill so you don't overflow it)
4) Connect the plastic tubing to the hose end of the oil can, and
pump some brake fluid up the tube to the end of the hose.
5) Connect the plastic tubing to the Bleeder valve.
6) Crack the bleeder valve a couple turns and start pumping the fluid
up to the reservoir.
When you're going to stop pumping to refill the can, shut the bleeder
valve tightly first...and don't disconnect the plastic tubing and let
any air in. Just add more fluid to the oil can as necessary, and
crack the valve and start pumping until you work all the air up to
the top. Bubbles like to go UP not down, so that's why this procedure
may help you out. After you get the bubbles out, you should have very
nice stiff brakes.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
<sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>
> I did. It was really quite simple to install. I still need to order
> the cable for it.
> It seems to work great. I have set it overnight and it is still
holding
> in the morning.
> One thing I would like some help on though is bleeding the brakes.
Does
> anyone know a good procedure out there? I have attached the device on
> the brake end that attaches the air compressor and causes a vacuum so
> you don't get any air bubbles and then I have cycled the brakes while
> someone keeps the reservoir full. I have done this three times now
and
> have gone through about half a gallon of synthetic brake fluid and I
> keep getting bubbles in the lines you can see between the pilot and
> copilot. I just think they aren't being worked out. The next thing I
> am going to try if no one else has any ideas was to create pressure on
> the reservoir and force the brake fluid through the system to see if I
> can get the bubbles out.
>
> The brakes feel solid though even though even with the bubbles but I
am
> still going to work on getting them out. Any help would be great.
>
> Here is a shot of my parking brake.
> http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70
>
> Scott Schmidt
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
> Dawson-Townsend
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:40 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was
> surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option
while
> installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little
by
> the time we realized we wanted it . . .
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 12:25 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>
> Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I
flew
> I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the
> older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But,
> the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe
> it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while)
> I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to
> the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on.
> Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by
> model.
>
> You gonna be a -10 builder too?
>
> Tim
>
> PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic
planes.
> If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them
> as a kit, I'd be thrilled!
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> Buhwana wrote:
>
>>Tim,
>>Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the
>>pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the
>
> checklist.
>
>>This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and
>
> after
>
>>checking it depended on the model year!
>>tom (soon to be an Rver
>>On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
>>
>>
>>>The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for
>>>
>>>starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill
>>>
>>>it if you turn it on in the air.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>>
>>>Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Weather watch for first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
"I believe I Can fly"
or of course for those Navy pukes "Danger Zone" from Top Gun . . .
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll start
off.
Rocket Man.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the
americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring
the digital vid camera... :)
Right, I wish...
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the
> day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little
> better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what
> happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day
> or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with
> good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport
> weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the
> conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you
> have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for
> easy transfer to the net. Randy
>
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Weather watch for first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter@grandecom.net>
How about "On the Wings of a Snow White Dove"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> "I believe I Can fly"
>
> or of course for those Navy pukes "Danger Zone" from Top Gun . . .
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 3:26 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video.
> I'll start off.
>
> Rocket Man.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 11:53 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the
> americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring
> the digital vid camera... :)
>
> Right, I wish...
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> do not archive
>
> Randy DeBauw wrote:
>
>> I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the
>> day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little
>> better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what
>> happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day
>> or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with
>> good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport
>> weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the
>> conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you
>> have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for
>> easy transfer to the net. Randy
>>
>
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ready to Prime |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Funny how fast primer talk goes 'round in the same circles... ;)
Part of that is because the priming issue has so many variables.
Some parts are alclad, some aren't, for one. If it isn't alclad,
you might want to prime it....and *might* is the key word. Nobody
HAS to prime anything at all. The skins, being alclad, are kind
of corrosion resistant as is, BUT, if I lived by the salt water,
I'd probably still want more.
Variprime, and the rattle can primers are nice, etching primers.
Etching primers grab nice and well. The only issue is that both
of those are not "Sealing" primers. People have great luck with
them anyway, however, from what it sounds like. If it isn't
a sealing primer though, moisture vapors will make it through.
Primers like AKZO, what I'm using, are sealing primers, but not
"etching" primers. So the primer doesn't stick (or so they say)
to smooth metals like the alclad skins. So, to use Akzo, I scuff
my skins with scotchbrite first....that gives the primer something
to grab. Unfortunately, it also wears on the alclad surface. Oh
well....you just can't win.
So to take it to another step, if you really want to go all out,
you scuff, etch, and alodine. Then you prime over that with a
sealing epoxy primer. I think that ideally, this would be the "Best"
corrosion protection you do, but it involves mess, chemicals, time,
effor, and more. James Ochs also has that alodine alternative
that sounds pretty good and might even make it a nicer experience.
I've spoken very reasonably with other builders about their primer
choice, and gotten the same advice as everyone will always give
when someone inquires about primer. Problem is, there is absolutely
no conclusive right or wrong way to do it....again, unless you
live in some extremely harsh environment. Anything you do,
that isn't all-out alodine thru expoxy, is probably just an
attempt at protection that just ends up taking some time. You're
probably only marginally different if you use Variprime, rattle
cans, Akzo without alodine, Sherwin Williams, or whatever....I
really doubt it makes much of a difference. Zinc Chromate is
supposed to be a fantastic protection....too bad it's also pretty
toxic. There just isn't any real, complete, "win" situation that
doesn't involve the tradeoff of extra work.....so, everyone
just does what ends up sounding most reasonable to them. One builder
I visited tried to protect his skins from scratches, and then
he only primed the rivet lines under the ribs, where you deburr
and dimple. Sounds real reasonable to me, and costs less and takes
less work than priming the whole thing.
Me, I started with Alodine and Akzo on most of the parts....skipped
the alodine on most of the skins, just scuffed and Akzo'd. For
the Fuselage, I'll only aldoine the things that I really feel
like doing....not many. If I didn't have a QB fuse, I'd probably
do quite a bit more parts with alodine...since they're small.
To each, his own. Just weigh your environment, cost, and work
concerns, and take a guess.....or, probably better yet, just
put post-it's on the wall with the various primer theories
and throw a dart....either way, you'll be flying an RV-10 for
many, many years.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Dj Merrill wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
>
> Darton Steve wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>>
>> If your primer doesn't seal, all you have accomplished
>> is to destroy the ALCLAD surface and cover it with a
>> porous primer coating (like rattle can primer) that
>> will allow moisture nearly direct contact with your
>> now ALCLAD removed part. That seems to me to be an
>> uninformed waste of time and money. An example of a
>> non-sealing primer providing protection for your part
>> would be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a
>> sacrificial coating on the outside of your part. Those
>> primers are toxic AND carcinogenic. There is no easy
>> or simple solution. Don't just prime with anything
>> believing you have improved corrosion resistance.
>>
>> Steve #40212 wings
>
>
> I admit to being a complete neophyte with regards to
> priming. If your last sentence is true, then why
> go through the hassle of priming at all? I was planning on
> coating the interior with Sherwin Williams 988 self
> ething primer in the belief that it would indeed
> improve corrosion resistance, but from what I infer
> from your post it would be better for me to do nothing,
> although that intuitively seems wrong to me
> (just my gut feeling, no data to back it up).
>
> Is priming with SW 988 going to make things
> worse?
>
> -Dj
>
Message 40
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|
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=pgBj4drCazNgEmgtihnkVN3KmNAsaPn1mJVyftqmJNtsG2AW5rcuviAXqeuvjpmwfv9giw/Ijj91Y7TAhroZn99UUIMubkAj+HBwLllbQRtUx3wLK46cJ3CzB+ItWvpSn5l4nET5SiahvXg0pvM19d/sdidK1fPkoXPHzhGFLzA=
;
| Subject: | Parking brake / brake bleeding |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Scott,
I've replaced the calipers on my C310 with a similar
technique. Give me a call I'll come help.
Steve #40212
--- Scott Schmidt <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
> <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>
> Thanks Tim. I will give this a shot.
>
> Scott Schmidt (#40111)
> Cell: 801-319-3094
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 12:23 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking brake / brake
> bleeding
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
> <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> My A&P showed me how to bleed brakes on my Beech,
> and this procedure
> worked really well for me:
>
> 1) Get a good pump type oil can. (A few bucks at an
> auto parts store)
> 2) Get some plastic tubing that fits tightly over
> the bleeder valve
> 3) Take the lid off your reservoir (Might want to
> have someone up there
> watch for it to fill so you don't overflow it)
> 4) Connect the plastic tubing to the hose end of the
> oil can, and
> pump some brake fluid up the tube to the end of the
> hose.
> 5) Connect the plastic tubing to the Bleeder valve.
> 6) Crack the bleeder valve a couple turns and start
> pumping the fluid
> up to the reservoir.
>
> When you're going to stop pumping to refill the can,
> shut the bleeder
> valve tightly first...and don't disconnect the
> plastic tubing and let
> any air in. Just add more fluid to the oil can as
> necessary, and
> crack the valve and start pumping until you work all
> the air up to
> the top. Bubbles like to go UP not down, so that's
> why this procedure
> may help you out. After you get the bubbles out,
> you should have very
> nice stiff brakes.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
> <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
> >
> > I did. It was really quite simple to install. I
> still need to order
> > the cable for it.
> > It seems to work great. I have set it overnight
> and it is still
> holding
> > in the morning.
> > One thing I would like some help on though is
> bleeding the brakes.
> Does
> > anyone know a good procedure out there? I have
> attached the device on
> > the brake end that attaches the air compressor and
> causes a vacuum so
> > you don't get any air bubbles and then I have
> cycled the brakes while
> > someone keeps the reservoir full. I have done
> this three times now
> and
> > have gone through about half a gallon of synthetic
> brake fluid and I
> > keep getting bubbles in the lines you can see
> between the pilot and
> > copilot. I just think they aren't being worked
> out. The next thing I
> > am going to try if no one else has any ideas was
> to create pressure on
> > the reservoir and force the brake fluid through
> the system to see if I
> > can get the bubbles out.
> >
> > The brakes feel solid though even though even with
> the bubbles but I
> am
> > still going to work on getting them out. Any help
> would be great.
> >
> > Here is a shot of my parking brake.
> >
> http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70
> >
> > Scott Schmidt
> > sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Tim
> > Dawson-Townsend
> > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:40 AM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48
> Msgs - 05/18/05
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim
> Dawson-Townsend"
> > <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
> >
> >
> > Are the majority of folks putting in the parking
> brake valve? I was
> > surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even
> mention that option
> while
> > installing the brake lines. We had to go back and
> re-do it a little
> by
> > the time we realized we wanted it . . .
> >
> > TDT
> > 40025
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On
> Behalf Of Tim Olson
> > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 12:25 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48
> Msgs - 05/18/05
> >
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
> <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> >
> > Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching
> that discussion. I
> flew
> > I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences
> were from the
> > older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure
> which years. But,
> > the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in
> the air....or maybe
> > it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a
> while)
> > I knew some models weren't that same way, but just
> wanted to convey to
> > the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that
> you want that pump on.
>
> > Some people find that very very strange. It
> definitely does vary by
> > model.
> >
> > You gonna be a -10 builder too?
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail
> member......they're fantastic
> planes.
> > If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could
> build them
> > as a kit, I'd be thrilled!
> >
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> > Current project: Fuselage
> >
> > Buhwana wrote:
> >
> >>Tim,
> >>Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some
> model years require the
> >>pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention
> it in the
> >
> > checklist.
> >
> >>This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the
> Musketeer group and
> >
> > after
> >
> >>checking it depended on the model year!
> >>tom (soon to be an Rver
>
=== message truncated ===
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
Message 41
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|
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=lauQBwwKwYFd0sxaT1D4GlfuzdyV4lCw7sNIlW441ni8B+8ZZ4pnhnlwphsOoWfIwb2nioPO1f+kCWkapOlg5hNLqj0yhhw3uFbzgZuGK7GsnF3bmI0VYkjnyHaofguijEf6nbAf/FGQt12cfDZkPZCfOzAcLroUUjXximZ7ONI=
;
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Most primers are porous so that the finish coat can
mechanically bond to the primer. The finish layer/s of
paint seal the finished product.
I'm saying either use an aviation type zinc chromate
or a primer that doesn't require a top coat or prime
AND paint or leave the ALCLAD alone. Otherwise my
opinion is that you are doing worse than just wasting
your time.
Steve #40212 wing ribs
--- John Jessen <jjessen@rcn.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen"
> <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> Very reasonable, so you are saying that either leave
> the alcad alone or go
> with an epoxy?
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Darton Steve
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 9:50 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ready to Prime
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve
> <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>
> If your primer doesn't seal, all you have
> accomplished is to destroy the
> ALCLAD surface and cover it with a porous primer
> coating (like rattle can
> primer) that will allow moisture nearly direct
> contact with your now ALCLAD
> removed part. That seems to me to be an uninformed
> waste of time and money.
> An example of a non-sealing primer providing
> protection for your part would
> be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a
> sacrificial coating on the outside
> of your part. Those primers are toxic AND
> carcinogenic. There is no easy or
> simple solution. Don't just prime with anything
> believing you have improved
> corrosion resistance.
>
> Steve #40212 wings
> --- John Jessen <jjessen@rcn.com> wrote:
> > Well, the week of the first few customer built
> RV-10's taking to the
> > air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is,
> I am so #$%
&
> > confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready
> to go down to Ace
> > and buy some Rustoleum.
> >
> > Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take.
>
> >
> > The first is to use a self etching primer and
> perhaps do the minimum,
> > the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the
> alcad to do its thing.
> > This saves time all around, as well as weight.
> >
> > The second is to use a more traditional priming
> approach, perhaps
> > variprime, and shoot everything.
> >
> > The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that
> is to use an epoxy
> > of some type, including a complete pretreatment of
> either the nasty
> > stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff,
> then encase the
> > aluminum forever more using something like AKZO.
> >
> > I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the
> AKZO, spending the
> > extra time and effort to make sure the moisture
> and salt air doesn't
> > penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping
> it gives it a better
> > resale value down the road. My question has to do
> with preparation.
> > I'd rather use something that is as
> environmentally friendly as
> > possible, but as long as I'm going to all the
> trouble, I don't want to
> > use something unproven. I realize there are no
> correct answers, but
> > would very much appreciate any input in terms of
> either effectiveness
> > given your experience or knowledge of such things,
> or the ease of
> > preparation and clean up.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > John Jessen
> > -> Empcone (2%)
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> protection around
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Weather watch for first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
http://www.acespilotshop.com/pilot-supplies/pilot_gifts/song_pilot.htm
Check out I have arrived and unusual attitudes
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video.
I'll start off.
Rocket Man.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the
americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring
the digital vid camera... :)
Right, I wish...
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the
> day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little
> better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what
> happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day
> or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with
> good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport
> weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the
> conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you
> have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for
> easy transfer to the net. Randy
>
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Parking brake / brake bleeding |
Bleed the brake system from the bottom up. You can get a nice adapter
from Aircraft Spruce that fits on the brake nipple and makes it painless
and almost leakproof. I used a 1 gal sprayer from Home Depot to
pressurize the system. Remember that any loops in the flex hoses will
trap air in the top of the loop, so you may have to bend them horizontal
to get all the air out. The other thing you can do is press on the
brakes while it's pumping fluid. This makes the bubbles smaller and
they will travel with the fluid when you release the brakes and come out
in the reservoir. If able, put a fitting into the reservoir with some
clear hose on it and route that hose above the cowl where you can see it
and then into a clean container and recycle the overflow back into the
sprayer.
Linn
Scott Schmidt wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>
>I did. It was really quite simple to install. I still need to order
>the cable for it.
>It seems to work great. I have set it overnight and it is still holding
>in the morning.
>One thing I would like some help on though is bleeding the brakes. Does
>anyone know a good procedure out there? I have attached the device on
>the brake end that attaches the air compressor and causes a vacuum so
>you don't get any air bubbles and then I have cycled the brakes while
>someone keeps the reservoir full. I have done this three times now and
>have gone through about half a gallon of synthetic brake fluid and I
>keep getting bubbles in the lines you can see between the pilot and
>copilot. I just think they aren't being worked out. The next thing I
>am going to try if no one else has any ideas was to create pressure on
>the reservoir and force the brake fluid through the system to see if I
>can get the bubbles out.
>
>The brakes feel solid though even though even with the bubbles but I am
>still going to work on getting them out. Any help would be great.
>
>Here is a shot of my parking brake.
>http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70
>
>Scott Schmidt
>sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
>Dawson-Townsend
>Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:40 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
><Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
>Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was
>surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while
>installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by
>the time we realized we wanted it . . .
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 12:25 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
>
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>
>Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew
>I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the
>older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But,
>the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe
>it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while)
>I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to
>the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on.
>Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by
>model.
>
>You gonna be a -10 builder too?
>
>Tim
>
>PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes.
>If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them
>as a kit, I'd be thrilled!
>
>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>Current project: Fuselage
>
>Buhwana wrote:
>
>
>>Tim,
>>Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the
>>pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the
>>
>>
>checklist.
>
>
>>This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and
>>
>>
>after
>
>
>>checking it depended on the model year!
>>tom (soon to be an Rver
>>On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for
>>>
>>>starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill
>>>
>>>it if you turn it on in the air.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>>
>>>Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Re: Weather watch for first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Randy,
Any possibility of mounting a camera in the back seats looking over your shoulder
(middle of the cabin). Tape the 'First Flight' from inside the cockpit?
I would suggest some sort of mount that can be seat belted in.
Connect the audio up to the intercom? Would be good documentation and give the
rest of us following your lead somehting to really drool over!
Jim Combs
#40192
Do Not Archive
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Weather watch for first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Break the mold a little bit and go with some classical music. Beethoven,
maybe.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll
start off.
Rocket Man.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the
americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring
the digital vid camera... :)
Right, I wish...
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the
> day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little
> better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what
> happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day
> or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with
> good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport
> weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the
> conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you
> have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for
> easy transfer to the net. Randy
>
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Weather watch for first flight. |
How about some Wagner - something from "The FLying Dutchman" maybe . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Break the mold a little bit and go with some classical music. Beethoven,
maybe.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll
start off.
Rocket Man.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the
americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring
the digital vid camera... :)
Right, I wish...
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the
> day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little
> better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what
> happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day
> or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with
> good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport
> weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the
> conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you
> have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for
> easy transfer to the net. Randy
>
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Weather watch for first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
If it is raining first thing in the morning as predicted then I may have time.
That would be cool. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Randy,
Any possibility of mounting a camera in the back seats looking over your shoulder
(middle of the cabin). Tape the 'First Flight' from inside the cockpit?
I would suggest some sort of mount that can be seat belted in.
Connect the audio up to the intercom? Would be good documentation and give the
rest of us following your lead somehting to really drool over!
Jim Combs
#40192
Do Not Archive
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Weather watch for first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Ode to Freedom would most definitely be appropriate.
Actually, I'll opt for silence on the first flight. Need to listen to that
engine.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
How about some Wagner - something from "The FLying Dutchman" maybe . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Break the mold a little bit and go with some classical music. Beethoven,
maybe.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll
start off.
Rocket Man.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the americawest.com
reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring the digital vid
camera... :)
Right, I wish...
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the
> day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little
> better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what
> happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day
> or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with
> good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport
> weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the
> conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you
> have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for
> easy transfer to the net. Randy
>
====================================
====================================
Message 49
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|
| Subject: | Re: Weather watch for first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Great idea with the in-cockpit video....the audio though, takes a bit
more work. The intercom will overdrive the mic input on the camera...so
you need to use an attenuating cable. I built one for using my camera
in my plane a couple years ago. Being that tomorrow's friday though,
I'd say just leave the camera audio open to the cockpit...you've
got enough to think about right now. ;)
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> If it is raining first thing in the morning as predicted then I may have time.
That would be cool. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 2:53 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
> Randy,
>
> Any possibility of mounting a camera in the back seats looking over your shoulder
(middle of the cabin). Tape the 'First Flight' from inside the cockpit?
>
> I would suggest some sort of mount that can be seat belted in.
>
> Connect the audio up to the intercom? Would be good documentation and give the
rest of us following your lead somehting to really drool over!
>
> Jim Combs
> #40192
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: Weather watch for first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Yes, By all means "Fly the plane first!"
Just a thought!
JimC
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Great idea with the in-cockpit video....the audio though, takes a bit
more work. The intercom will overdrive the mic input on the camera...so
you need to use an attenuating cable. I built one for using my camera
in my plane a couple years ago. Being that tomorrow's friday though,
I'd say just leave the camera audio open to the cockpit...you've
got enough to think about right now. ;)
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> If it is raining first thing in the morning as predicted then I may have time.
That would be cool. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 2:53 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
>
> Randy,
>
> Any possibility of mounting a camera in the back seats looking over your shoulder
(middle of the cabin). Tape the 'First Flight' from inside the cockpit?
>
> I would suggest some sort of mount that can be seat belted in.
>
> Connect the audio up to the intercom? Would be good documentation and give the
rest of us following your lead somehting to really drool over!
>
> Jim Combs
> #40192
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Ready to Prime - Newer Rattle Products |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Well yeah but,..... There are some new self-etching non-corrosive, corrosion
resistant rattle can primers out recently. Take a look at this spec sheet
from Dupont. These are available at most auto body refinish stores carrying
Dupont paint.
http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo/chromasyst
em/H-19469_A-4115S.pdf
Just noting that there are shades of gray ;-)
Bill S
7a Ark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ready to Prime
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Very reasonable, so you are saying that either leave the alcad alone or go
with an epoxy?
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ready to Prime
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
If your primer doesn't seal, all you have accomplished is to destroy the
ALCLAD surface and cover it with a porous primer coating (like rattle can
primer) that will allow moisture nearly direct contact with your now ALCLAD
removed part. That seems to me to be an uninformed waste of time and money.
An example of a non-sealing primer providing protection for your part would
be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a sacrificial coating on the outside
of your part. Those primers are toxic AND carcinogenic. There is no easy or
simple solution. Don't just prime with anything believing you have improved
corrosion resistance.
Steve #40212 wings
--- John Jessen <jjessen@rcn.com> wrote:
> Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the
> air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$%
&
> confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace
> and buy some Rustoleum.
>
> Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take.
>
> The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum,
> the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing.
> This saves time all around, as well as weight.
>
> The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps
> variprime, and shoot everything.
>
> The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy
> of some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty
> stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the
> aluminum forever more using something like AKZO.
>
> I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the
> extra time and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't
> penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better
> resale value down the road. My question has to do with preparation.
> I'd rather use something that is as environmentally friendly as
> possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I don't want to
> use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers, but
> would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness
> given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of
> preparation and clean up.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John Jessen
> -> Empcone (2%)
>
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: Weather watch for first flight |
<Bruce is the video camera you have digital
of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for easy transfer to
the net.>
Dang it Randy, I got all tied up with "work" today and didn't check the Matronics emails til now (5:47pm). It records onto a tape, digitally. I download it easily to my Mac and build DVD's in widescreen format. Quicktime Pro allows me the ability to convert into different formats for use on the internet. Personally, I start big and cut/shrink later! I planned on locking myself in my office at home and getting out a quick and dirty file as a teaser and sending it to Tim (unless there's a better place tosend it). Using www.yousendit.com, I can transfer a gig of data!
Keeping my fingers crossed for tomorrow!
Bruce
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
Bruce is the video camera you have digital
of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for easy transfer to
the net.
Dang it Randy, I got all tied up with "work" today and didn't check the Matronics emails til now (5:47pm). It records onto a tape, digitally. I download it easily to my Mac and build DVD's in widescreen format. Quicktime Pro allows me the ability to convert into different formats for use on the internet. Personally, I start big and cut/shrink later! I planned on locking myself in my office at home and getting out a quick and dirty file as a teaser and sending it to Tim (unless there's a better place tosend it). Using www.yousendit.com, I can transfer a gig of data!
Keeping my fingers crossed for tomorrow!
Bruce
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
Message 53
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| Subject: | Weather watch for first flight. |
Pink Floyd - Learning to Fly, even has a checklist built in. :-)
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Ode to Freedom would most definitely be appropriate.
Actually, I'll opt for silence on the first flight. Need to listen to that
engine.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
How about some Wagner - something from "The FLying Dutchman" maybe . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Break the mold a little bit and go with some classical music. Beethoven, maybe.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll start
off.
Rocket Man.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the americawest.com reservations
and see how much tickets are... I'll bring the digital vid camera...
:)
Right, I wish...
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the
> day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little
> better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what
> happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day
> or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with
> good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport
> weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the
> conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you
> have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for
> easy transfer to the net. Randy
>
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit Photos |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
Hi Randy :
We put air pressur on the fuel valve to determine which valve was which ,
as in the pic left is left , right is right , i had the same concern .
I have a feeling you will be flying sat . weather is nasty !
Brian B
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit
Photos
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> The only problem I see is that now the selector is backwards. When
pointing to the left it will be the right tank. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:54 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits +
> Conduit Photos
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I have now posted Brian's Fuel line photos so you can see them.
> Brian, if something isn't right, just let me know.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/BrianBollaert/fuel_lines/index.html
>
> At the same time, I updated my site to show the Inner Duct conduit
> that I got yesterday. Last night I installed it and I think it's
> going to be fantastic for running the wires to the tailcone.
> Here are some photos:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050517/index.html
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> >
> > Brian,
> >
> > Were you able to post the pic? If so, where?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Bob #40105
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> > bollaert
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
> > <bbollaert@comcast.net>
> >
> > Hello Bob:
> >
> > Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more
> > you
> > bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult
> > to
> > get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon .
> >
> > Brian Bollaert
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> > To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> >
> > <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> >
> >>I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the
> >>motivation simply to reduce the number of bends?
> >>
> >>Bob #40105
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> >>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> >>bollaert
> >>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM
> >>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> >>
> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
> >><bbollaert@comcast.net>
> >>
> >>Morning Tim:
> >>
> >>Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that
> >
> > were
> >
> >>called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you
> >
> > have
> >
> >>the
> >>nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold
> >
> > the
> >
> >>brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side
> >
> > line
> >
> >>i
> >>changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
> >>connection under left & right seat however there was much less
> >
> > bending
> >
> >>of
> >>the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a
> >
> > pic.
> >
> >>Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc ,
> >>still
> >>figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only
> >
> > 1
> >
> >>conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How
> >>about
> >>your panel ?
> >>
> >>Brian Bollaert
> >>
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >>To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
> >>Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM
> >>Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >>>
> >>>Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
> >>>Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor
> >>
> >>panels...
> >>
> >>>some got them, some didn't.
> >>>
> >>>Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge
> >>
> >>things
> >>
> >>>under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per
> >
> > side.
> >
> >>>K1000-3.
> >>>
> >>>Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of
> >
> > 2.
> >
> >>>I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was
> >
> > missing
> >
> >>>4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
> >>>people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
> >>>nutplates.
> >>>
> >>>Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
> >>>verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
> >>>out at the last minute.
> >>>
> >>>Tim
> >>>--
> >>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> >>>Current project: Fuselage
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
>
>
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | rattle can primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
DJ,
My local Sherwin Williams store didn't have it either, as they only carry
home paint.
However, my local paint supply store had it in the "back," in part of their
industrial/commercial stock that they don't put on the retail shelves. Call
around to your local commercial paint stores and ask for SW 988. I'm sure
you'll find it locally. My first can cost me about $9, but a month later
when I went back and got a case (12), I think it was $5-6 per can after bulk
discount.
Rob
40392, N524RX reserved
Just finished priming VS parts
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rattle can primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
> Sherwin Williams 988 is very good stuff for a "rattle can". Special
nozzle
> that sprays very well.
> If you go to any NAPA auto store, they carry Dupli-Color DAP 1690 >
Self-Etching Primer for $5.95. It is great stuff and I use if for small
> parts when I do not want to mix up the two part stuff.
Thanks all for the advice on where to find the primer.
I went to a local Sherwin Williams outlet store in Chapel Hill after
work tonight, and was told they do not carry it at that location.
I went to Autozone, and found the empty shelf with the label
for the Dupli-Color 1690. I went to Walmart and found
nothing... *grin*
So, I ordered 4 cans of SW 988 from their web store.
Should hopefully be here soon. Now I guess I have to learn
the best technique for using a spray can - haven't used
one in years. Pointy end of the can goes away from
you - okay, got it! :-)
Thanks again,
-Dj
Message 56
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|
| Subject: | Re: Weather watch for first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
Randy rocket man is good BUT how about Wagner's Flight of the Valkyries?
(its very moving !)
Brian B
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video.
I'll start off.
>
> Rocket Man.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 11:53 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the
> americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring
> the digital vid camera... :)
>
> Right, I wish...
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> do not archive
>
> Randy DeBauw wrote:
>
> > I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the
> > day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little
> > better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what
> > happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day
> > or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with
> > good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport
> > weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the
> > conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you
> > have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for
> > easy transfer to the net. Randy
> >
>
>
Message 57
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|
| Subject: | Weather watch for first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
Stravinsky's "The Firebird Suite."
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian bollaert
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
Randy rocket man is good BUT how about Wagner's Flight of the Valkyries?
(its very moving !)
Brian B
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video.
I'll start off.
>
> Rocket Man.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 11:53 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight.
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the
> americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring
> the digital vid camera... :)
>
> Right, I wish...
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> do not archive
>
> Randy DeBauw wrote:
>
> > I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the
> > day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little
> > better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what
> > happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day
> > or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with
> > good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport
> > weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the
> > conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you
> > have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for
> > easy transfer to the net. Randy
> >
>
>
Message 58
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|
| Subject: | rattle can primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
So after getting thoroughly confused after reading all these new primer
posts, Should DJ scotchbrite, clean, and then apply SW988, or just clean and
apply?
I've been scotchbriting so far and putting a decent coat on, but if the
consensus of repeat offenders or others well-versed in priming say
otherwise, I'll happily save the time spent on it!
Rob
#392
Ready to rivet VS
Message 59
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|
Photos
| Subject: | Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit |
Photos
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
But, Brian, That valve has the handle forward, but the pointer
end of the valve facing aft, doesn't it?? I think that's why
Randy had that comment....the pointy tip usually goes towards
the front, and at the 10 o'clock position is left, and the
2 o'clock is right......in yours, it's 8 o'clock left, and
4 o'clock right, isn't it?
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
brian bollaert wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert@comcast.net>
>
> Hi Randy :
>
> We put air pressur on the fuel valve to determine which valve was which ,
> as in the pic left is left , right is right , i had the same concern .
> I have a feeling you will be flying sat . weather is nasty !
>
> Brian B
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 11:01 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit
> Photos
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>>
>>The only problem I see is that now the selector is backwards. When
>
> pointing to the left it will be the right tank. Randy
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:54 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits +
>>Conduit Photos
>>
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>I have now posted Brian's Fuel line photos so you can see them.
>>Brian, if something isn't right, just let me know.
>>
>>http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/BrianBollaert/fuel_lines/index.html
>>
>>At the same time, I updated my site to show the Inner Duct conduit
>>that I got yesterday. Last night I installed it and I think it's
>>going to be fantastic for running the wires to the tailcone.
>>Here are some photos:
>>
>>http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050517/index.html
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
>>>Brian,
>>>
>>>Were you able to post the pic? If so, where?
>>>
>>>Thanks.
>>>
>>>Bob #40105
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
>>>bollaert
>>>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM
>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
>>><bbollaert@comcast.net>
>>>
>>>Hello Bob:
>>>
>>>Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more
>>>you
>>>bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult
>>>to
>>>get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon .
>>>
>>>Brian Bollaert
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM
>>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>>>
>>><bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>>
>>>>I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the
>>>>motivation simply to reduce the number of bends?
>>>>
>>>>Bob #40105
>>>>
>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
>>>>bollaert
>>>>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM
>>>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>>>>
>>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
>>>><bbollaert@comcast.net>
>>>>
>>>>Morning Tim:
>>>>
>>>>Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that
>>>
>>>were
>>>
>>>
>>>>called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you
>>>
>>>have
>>>
>>>
>>>>the
>>>>nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold
>>>
>>>the
>>>
>>>
>>>>brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side
>>>
>>>line
>>>
>>>
>>>>i
>>>>changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
>>>>connection under left & right seat however there was much less
>>>
>>>bending
>>>
>>>
>>>>of
>>>>the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a
>>>
>>>pic.
>>>
>>>
>>>>Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc ,
>>>>still
>>>>figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only
>>>
>>>1
>>>
>>>
>>>>conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How
>>>>about
>>>>your panel ?
>>>>
>>>>Brian Bollaert
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>>To: "RV10" <RV10-list@matronics.com>
>>>>Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM
>>>>Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>>>
>>>>>Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
>>>>>Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor
>>>>
>>>>panels...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>some got them, some didn't.
>>>>>
>>>>>Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge
>>>>
>>>>things
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per
>>>
>>>side.
>>>
>>>
>>>>>K1000-3.
>>>>>
>>>>>Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of
>>>
>>>2.
>>>
>>>
>>>>>I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was
>>>
>>>missing
>>>
>>>
>>>>>4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
>>>>>people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
>>>>>nutplates.
>>>>>
>>>>>Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
>>>>>verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
>>>>>out at the last minute.
>>>>>
>>>>>Tim
>>>>>--
>>>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>>>>Current project: Fuselage
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>
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Message 60
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| Subject: | rattle can primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene" <rene@felker.com>
Here is a site to buy the primer and to find a dealer near you........worked
for me.
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rattle can primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright"
<armywrights@adelphia.net>
DJ,
My local Sherwin Williams store didn't have it either, as they only carry
home paint.
However, my local paint supply store had it in the "back," in part of their
industrial/commercial stock that they don't put on the retail shelves. Call
around to your local commercial paint stores and ask for SW 988. I'm sure
you'll find it locally. My first can cost me about $9, but a month later
when I went back and got a case (12), I think it was $5-6 per can after bulk
discount.
Rob
40392, N524RX reserved
Just finished priming VS parts
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: rattle can primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
> Sherwin Williams 988 is very good stuff for a "rattle can". Special
nozzle
> that sprays very well.
> If you go to any NAPA auto store, they carry Dupli-Color DAP 1690 >
Self-Etching Primer for $5.95. It is great stuff and I use if for small
> parts when I do not want to mix up the two part stuff.
Thanks all for the advice on where to find the primer.
I went to a local Sherwin Williams outlet store in Chapel Hill after
work tonight, and was told they do not carry it at that location.
I went to Autozone, and found the empty shelf with the label
for the Dupli-Color 1690. I went to Walmart and found
nothing... *grin*
So, I ordered 4 cans of SW 988 from their web store.
Should hopefully be here soon. Now I guess I have to learn
the best technique for using a spray can - haven't used
one in years. Pointy end of the can goes away from
you - okay, got it! :-)
Thanks again,
-Dj
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: rattle can primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights@adelphia.net>
>
> So after getting thoroughly confused after reading all these new primer
> posts, Should DJ scotchbrite, clean, and then apply SW988, or just clean and
> apply?
>
> I've been scotchbriting so far and putting a decent coat on, but if the
> consensus of repeat offenders or others well-versed in priming say
> otherwise, I'll happily save the time spent on it!
Uh, scotchbrite? I was just going to clean the
parts and spray them. Of course, my next question - what is
the best thing to clean the parts with? Acetone?
Yeah, I'm a newbie, but I'm having fun!
I've decided, for better or for worse, that
I am going to spray everything with the SW 988 primer.
Completely psychological, but I'll just "feel" better
seeing a coat of primer on everything.
-Dj
Message 62
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| Subject: | Re: rattle can primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Rene wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene" <rene@felker.com>
>
> Here is a site to buy the primer and to find a dealer near you........worked
> for me.
>
> http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565
Hi Rene',
Thanks for the hint. Actually, I noticed
when I placed the order on the web that they give you a choice
of where to ship it from, and there is a branch in Raleigh, NC
that carries the SW 988. In a pinch I suppose I could drive
down and get some, but probably just as easy to have them
ship it to me. I found a couple of cans of the Martin Senour 7220
at a local NAPA, which is the same thing as SW 988, and
that should last me until my order of SW 988 arrives in a
few days. When I get down to a can or two, I'll just
order a bunch more. At least, that sounds rational
on the surface... *grin*
-Dj
Message 63
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| Subject: | Re: rattle can primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
> Uh, scotchbrite? I was just going to clean the
> parts and spray them. Of course, my next question - what is
> the best thing to clean the parts with? Acetone?
> Yeah, I'm a newbie, but I'm having fun!
>
I used scotchbrite, followed by a cleaning with acetone, followed by SW
988 on the entire inside surface of the tailcone.
It worked well for me. I will probably continue that process for the
remainder of the project.
-Sean #40303 (Still waiting for wing kit, still twiddling fingers...)
Message 64
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| Subject: | rattle can primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
DJ
Many repeat offenders elect to not prime at all. But clean and spray is
fine with self-etching primers. I've switched to denatured alcohol for
almost all cleaning. It works as well as acetone but won't hurt you
unless you drink it. I still keep acetone and MEK around for special
cases but feel much better using alcohol considering how many gallons
flash off during cleaning.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> Uh, scotchbrite? I was just going to clean the parts
> and spray them. Of course, my next question - what is the
> best thing to clean the parts with? Acetone?
> Yeah, I'm a newbie, but I'm having fun!
>
> I've decided, for better or for worse, that I am going
> to spray everything with the SW 988 primer.
> Completely psychological, but I'll just "feel" better seeing
> a coat of primer on everything.
>
> -Dj
>
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