Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:13 AM - Re: Capacitance fuel senders (Rob Kermanj)
2. 12:18 AM - stupid compressor tricks (James Ochs)
3. 12:18 AM - Flap mounting holes ()
4. 12:18 AM - Re: Randy's First Flight Video by Bruce (Jim Combs)
5. 12:20 AM - Re: Alternator? (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
6. 12:37 AM - Re: Capacitance fuel senders (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
7. 04:52 AM - Re: Flap mounting holes (Tim Olson)
8. 04:55 AM - Re: Re: Flap Motor (Tim Olson)
9. 04:58 AM - Re: Which bucking bar (Tim Olson)
10. 05:35 AM - Re: Flap mounting holes (Rick)
11. 05:35 AM - Re: Capacitance fuel senders (Bill and Tami Britton)
12. 05:45 AM - Re: Capacitance fuel senders (bob.kaufmann)
13. 05:53 AM - Re: stupid compressor tricks (Mark Grieve)
14. 06:04 AM - Re: stupid compressor tricks (Darton Steve)
15. 06:07 AM - Re: Capacitance fuel senders (Bill and Tami Britton)
16. 06:23 AM - Re: Capacitance fuel senders (Nikolaos Napoli)
17. 06:24 AM - Re: stupid compressor tricks (Tim Olson)
18. 06:53 AM - Re: Capacitance fuel senders (Dan Checkoway)
19. 06:58 AM - Re: stupid compressor tricks (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
20. 07:11 AM - Re: Which bucking bar (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
21. 07:18 AM - Re: stupid compressor tricks (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
22. 07:29 AM - Re: stupid compressor tricks (Randy DeBauw)
23. 07:30 AM - Re: Flap mounting holes (Randy DeBauw)
24. 07:33 AM - Re: milestone #1 (John Jessen)
25. 07:38 AM - Re: milestone #1 (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of John Jessen)
26. 08:28 AM - Re: Re: Flap Motor (Jim Combs)
27. 09:50 AM - Re: stupid compressor tricks (James Ochs)
28. 10:11 AM - Re: stupid compressor tricks (Scott Schmidt)
29. 10:42 AM - Instrument Flightschool overstock sale (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
30. 10:49 AM - Re: Which bucking bar (matronix.rv10@4sythe.com)
31. 11:36 AM - Re: Capacitance fuel senders (William Curtis)
32. 12:38 PM - Re: Flap mounting holes (Dave & Brenda Emond)
33. 02:16 PM - Re: Which bucking bar (Albert Gardner)
34. 02:19 PM - Re: Re: Capacitance fuel senders (Wentz, Don)
35. 02:31 PM - Oxygen systems (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
36. 02:50 PM - Re: Oxygen systems (John Jessen)
37. 04:10 PM - Re: Oxygen systems (Brcue Patton)
38. 05:35 PM - Re: Which bucking bar (JOHN STARN)
39. 06:49 PM - Re: Re: Alternator? (McGANN, Ron)
40. 07:07 PM - Re: Re: Flap Motor (Richard Sipp)
41. 08:26 PM - Re: Alternator? (Garmin install manuals) (William Curtis)
42. 08:38 PM - Re: stupid compressor tricks (NYTerminat@aol.com)
43. 09:09 PM - Re: Which bucking bar ()
44. 09:12 PM - Re: Capacitance fuel senders ()
45. 09:17 PM - Re: Flap mounting holes ()
46. 09:24 PM - Re: stupid compressor tricks ()
47. 10:58 PM - Re: RV10--List: Capacitance fuel senders (Dan Benua)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitance fuel senders |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
I have a old fashion fuel sender in my RV6 and found that if coupled
with vans gages, it works very well. It is consistent and accurate at
vans gauge markings.
Rob.
On May 24, 2005, at 1:48 PM, James Ochs wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
>
> My (limited) experience with float sensors has pretty much been in
> Cessna's and my conclusion is that it's probably better not to have
> fuel gauges at all. They stick, they read the wrong values, they move
> around so much that the reading is pretty much useless. If the tank is
> too full they read empty (this is a behaviour I've noticed in the post
> 2000 models they have at my local FBO). All kinds of stupid. I think
> they took it to heart when the FAA said the only place it needs to be
> accurate is at 0 (which is pretty dumb if you ask me)
>
> When I get to the point of putting together my tanks, panel and engine
> there will be fuel flow / totalizer all that good stuff + fuel gauges.
> I also generally dip the tanks if there is any question about how much
> fuel is in there on a visual inspection because I am really anal about
> fuel... I also tend to be a bit obsessive-compulsive about measuring
> devices... if it ain't accurate, whats the point?
>
> But that's just me ;)
>
> BTW, I emailed vans about the plates for the -10 and they said:
>
> they are in the engineering 'hopper' at this time but we don't have a
> definitive target date. I'd guess at least a couple months. van's
>
> James
>
> John Jessen wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>>
>> Question: Why use capacitance over float? Other than some degree of
>> accuracy? Why not go with something more fool proof, such as a dip
>> stick?
>> Then use fuel flow? In short, wouldn't floats be "accurate enough?"
>> Read
>> that as accurate enough to indicate full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 and empty?
>> John Jessen
>> -> Emp (2%)
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
>> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 4:01 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
>>
>>
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any
>> definitive
>> solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel
>> senders to
>> floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm
>> trying to
>> figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10 yet?
>> Any
>> ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the
>> concentric tubes
>> as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone heard from
>> vans
>> recently on this issue?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> James
>> #40400
>>
>> --
>> There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to
>> throw
>> yourself at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers
>> Guide to
>> the Galaxy'
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to
> throw yourself at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The
> Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | stupid compressor tricks |
Hi all,
I have one of those craftsman compressors with the 26 gallon tank and have a
couple of questions about what it=92s doing=85
1) the drain valve is very difficult to turn. It=92s a crappy valve
that is about =BD=94 in diameter and no ears, and I sometimes have to get the
channel locks out to get it to turn. Is this normal? Is there a way to
replace it with something that works a bit better?
2) I get A LOT of water draining out of it when I drain it. I drain
it every day when I am done with it, and the last couple of days I=92ve
noticed the water coming out has a nice orange color with suspended rust
particles in it. Is this normal or is it something I should be worried
about?
3) Should I be leaving the drain valve open or closing it when it is
done draining?
You would think that if it is possible for someone to build an airplane in
their garage, the tool guys could figure out how to put a good drain valve
on the compressor and do some kind of rust prevention in the tank :P
Thanks all=85
James
#40400
Just completed prosealing the rudder=85.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Flap mounting holes |
I mounted the left flap tonight and found the holes in the flap hinge, the portion
that attaches to the wing has a larger hole than the flap brackets (AN-4 bolt)
that are on the flap itself. I referenced the plans and could not find if
it gets bushed anywhere. Is this normal for anyone else? I can't believe that
this is the way it should be for final assembly. The wings plans don't indicate
to drill out those brackets only to deburr the holes. I can't imagine I drilled
them larger at some point for no reason.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: John W. Cox
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 6:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
Bruce, don't worry I picked up the slack watching when you left. Randy has still
not eaten much. Pulling the plane out then back between thundershowers was
a hoot. Tim James flying GIB with Rob Hickman in Robs RV-4 have captured some
inspirational inflight Aircraft to Aircraft video. Rob and Randy are downloading
the data points from the ACS2500 right now. Way too cool. The smell
of the new engine is a unique memory. Digital video will be forwarded to Tim
Olson for final presentation after Randy gets dinner.
Went out again this afternoon. The absolute kick in the pants was asking Randy
to pull up at VANS when he got back from his hour and a half run dodging the
cells. Dick was coming out of the building to jump in the RV-9 and head home.
He did a big U turn back into the building and out came the entire staff to
give Randy and his family kudos they so richly deserve for completing the entire
aircraft and making sure every single system worked. No high speed passes
with this owner. Still digitals images of the event will be sent to Tim as
well.
I have to get my wet clothes off and change into something dry... But they say
it's a warm rain here this time of year.
John Cox - KUAO
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BBreckenridge@att.net
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 3:55 PM
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
Ok, like this is really driving me crazy. I'm only now, 5 hours later, starting
to "feel normal" again. I can't imagine how Randy feels!! I mean, he probably
won't tell you about his restless night, getting up at 4:30am, not eating
a good breakfast, etc... so, I am. He spent some family time around the lunch
hour with plans to do some more flying while the weather was clear. He's probably
still out there flying around incoming cells. It was an exhilarating
experience to be there. As many have said before, keep pounding those rivets
-you're in for the ride of your life!!
Bruce
Do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Randy's First Flight Video by Bruce |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
OUTSTANDING!
I love the comment after the most excellent landing!
"That's One!"
So calm, collected!
The teamwork and the assist from the chase plane - Way good!
And the many thanks for all the work in making the movie video's and getting them
posted!
Congratulations! Job(s) well done to all.
Jim Combs
#40192 - Fuselage (Almost, still a little to do on the fuel tanks!)
Do Not Archive
Message 5
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|
If I remember, you want to have the boss mount for the RV-10. I
originally ordered the alternator from Van's but found out that the
Van's alternator is a rebuilt automotive alternator. I also found out
that the controller that B&C sells won't work with it. The more I have
talked with people who have used the Van's alternator the less confident
I was. The Van's alternator has a return value of $160 and the B&C
costs $595 (I think).
Anyway, you can call B&C and they will be able to tell you.
Are you planning on using a B&C or other brand?
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
________________________________
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: Alternator?
Browsing around, what's the difference between "case mount" and "boss
mount" alternators? And is there a difference between different IO-540
models, or are they all one or the other?
TDT
40025
Message 6
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| Subject: | Capacitance fuel senders |
We've got some capactive probes from Skysports (http://www.airstuff.com/fuelmon.html). We haven't tested them out yet, but here's hoping!
Skysports will do custom lengths and custome "bendable" sections. We got 8 inches
bendable, then 8 inches of measuring. Skysports will also custom tweak the
output circuit for you to be resistive, voltage, etc., for your particular output
range (within reason). I think ours were $75 each.
The above webpage has lots of info. Ours bend down from the entry point, then
bend back up and run diagonally across the width of the first bay of the tank.
TDT
40025
still waiting on a friggin' Finish Kit!
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Hi All,
I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive
solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders
to floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm
trying to figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10
yet? Any ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the
concentric tubes as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone
heard from vans recently on this issue?
Thanks,
James
#40400
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself
at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Flap mounting holes |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Those get bushings. I couldn't insert and attach them yet because you
have to put them in after the bottom skin is on and complete. They're
pressed in bushings, so you don't want to take them in and out if
un-necessary.
Remember the plans revisions that show the bushings??
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
ricksked@earthlink.net wrote:
> I mounted the left flap tonight and found the holes in the flap hinge,
> the portion that attaches to the wing has a larger hole than the flap
> brackets (AN-4 bolt) that are on the flap itself. I referenced the plans
> and could not find if it gets bushed anywhere. Is this normal for anyone
> else? I can't believe that this is the way it should be for final
> assembly. The wings plans don't indicate to drill out those brackets
> only to deburr the holes. I can't imagine I drilled them larger at some
> point for no reason.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Wings
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* John W. Cox <mailto:johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, May 20, 2005 6:06 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
>
> Bruce, dont worry I picked up the slack watching when you left.
> Randy has still not eaten much. Pulling the plane out then back
> between thundershowers was a hoot. Tim James flying GIB with Rob
> Hickman in Robs RV-4 have captured some inspirational inflight
> Aircraft to Aircraft video. Rob and Randy are downloading the data
> points from the ACS2500 right now. Way too cool. The smell of the
> new engine is a unique memory. Digital video will be forwarded to
> Tim Olson for final presentation after Randy gets dinner.
>
>
>
> Went out again this afternoon. The absolute kick in the pants was
> asking Randy to pull up at VANS when he got back from his hour and a
> half run dodging the cells. Dick was coming out of the building to
> jump in the RV-9 and head home. He did a big U turn back into the
> building and out came the entire staff to give Randy and his family
> kudos they so richly deserve for completing the entire aircraft and
> making sure every single system worked. No high speed passes with
> this owner. Still digitals images of the event will be sent to Tim
> as well.
>
>
>
> I have to get my wet clothes off and change into something dry..
> But they say its a warm rain here this time of year.
>
>
>
> John Cox - KUAO
>
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *BBreckenridge@att.net
> *Sent:* Friday, May 20, 2005 3:55 PM
> *To:* RV10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
>
>
>
> **Ok, like this is really driving me crazy. I'm only now, 5 hours
> later, starting to "feel normal" again. I can't imagine how Randy
> feels!! I mean, he probably won't tell you about his restless
> night, getting up at 4:30am, not eating a good breakfast, etc... so,
> I am. He spent some family time around the lunch hour with plans to
> do some more flying while the weather was clear. He's probably
> still out there flying around incoming cells. It was an
> exhilarating experience to be there. As many have said before, keep
> pounding those rivets -you're in for the ride of your life!!**
>
>
>
> **Bruce**
>
>
>
> **Do not archive**
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Flap Motor |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
OOoooooh no. I wouldn't risk that motor burning out... Increasing the
voltage on a motor will change things fairly drastically. What I
would do is to get that stepped down with a simple regulator circuit.
I'm betting there are 3-pin regulators out there that could either
handle the load themselves, or maybe a group of 3 or 4 could do it.
Probably would only cost a few bucks. Why don't you throw this
question to the aero-electric list. You'll get some well-educated
lessons from them.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> For various reasons, we're going to have a 24 V bus system in our -10, which
can be a pain sometimes, like with the 12 V flap motor.
>
> For the short duration that the Flap motor runs, what about the crazy idea of
just going ahead and running that sucker on 24 volts? Might speed up the Flap
deployment, too. Or is that just a stupid way to burn out the motor?
>
> While we're on the subject, is anyone doing a simple limit-switch "one-touch"
flap retraction arrangement? Where are you mounting the limit switch? On the
flaps themselves, or is there any way to do it on the flap motor or actuator
assembly?
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Which bucking bar |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That special bucking bar starts coming in when you rivet the elevator
skins to the rear of the elevator spar. The 2 skins are facing you like
2 big reed valves, and you need a bar that can get in between them and
get down on the rivets. With 2 people, that part of the construction
went really well for me. I don't think it was for the nose ribs.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> Which bucking bar are you guys using for the HS-905 nose ribs on the
> HS??? Is this where the special RV-10 bucking bar comes into play???
>
> TIA
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Emp #40137
> Riveting HS
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Flap mounting holes |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Yup...I found, knew that something had to be missing,,
Thanks Timmy!!
Message 11
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spamd3.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_4 Message came from 63.163.37-39.x network
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance fuel senders |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
Bob, I guess I'm not familiar with totalizers. Could you explain them
further. How do they differ from the senders???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
>
> James
>
> I decided to go with totalizers, and not put senders in the tanks. After
a
> short learning session, they will be more accurate than either type of
fuel
> sender..
> Bob K
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 3:01 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive
> solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders
> to floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm
> trying to figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10
> yet? Any ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the
> concentric tubes as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone
> heard from vans recently on this issue?
>
> Thanks,
> James
> #40400
>
> --
> There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw
> yourself at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide
to
> the Galaxy'
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Capacitance fuel senders |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
They attach inline in the fuel system and measure the fuel that goes by. I
little chip in the controls actually train the totalizer in burn rate and
fuel remaining.
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
Bob, I guess I'm not familiar with totalizers. Could you explain them
further. How do they differ from the senders???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
>
> James
>
> I decided to go with totalizers, and not put senders in the tanks. After
a
> short learning session, they will be more accurate than either type of
fuel
> sender..
> Bob K
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 3:01 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive
> solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders
> to floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm
> trying to figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10
> yet? Any ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the
> concentric tubes as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone
> heard from vans recently on this issue?
>
> Thanks,
> James
> #40400
>
> --
> There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw
> yourself at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide
to
> the Galaxy'
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: stupid compressor tricks |
James,
I would start with replacing the drain valve. I have a 60 gallon upright
that cost $400 but it came with the standard $.25 valve. Useless! You
should be able to unthread the valve to get it out of the tank. Take
that piece to the plumbing department to match the pipe size and pick up
a street elbow, 6 inch nipple and ball valve for that size pipe. It is
probably 1/4 inch. Thread the pieces all together using the pipe sealant
of your choice and it should be very easy to drain the tank. Additional
pieces may be added to direct the discharge into a catch basin. If you
want to get really fancy, I believe that Grainger carries a valve that
burps the tank drain every time the motor kicks in. I think I need one,
of course, but they are a bit pricey. The next compressor.... in the
next shop....
Here is another idea. Go to this site http://www.tptools.com/ and
search for compressor drain. They list one with a pull cord. I have
never seen one but it sounds interesting.
The quantity of discharge sounds excessive and I am wondering where you
live. Hawaii? Portland? Here in Illinois it is very humid in the summer
and I don't get all that much condensation. I drain my compressor at the
start of use only because that is when I remember to do it. Warm air
will hold more moisture then cold so waiting till the next session may
yield even more discharge. The orange tint means the tank is rusting
which is going to happen with unprotected steel in the presence of
moisture. The tank will eventually rust through and, compared to a
replacement compressor, the cost won't be worth it. Not sure what you
can do here. There is a sealant available for steel fuel tanks and that
might work. Should you worry? Yes, but only at the level that you worry
about your roof wearing out. Perhaps others have some good ideas here.
Once you replumb the valve, just open it until you get a steady stream
of air. Drain it again before you shut off the lights if you like.
Mark
7 empennage
James Ochs wrote:
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I have one of those craftsman compressors with the 26 gallon tank and
> have a couple of questions about what it's doing...
>
>
>
> 1) the drain valve is very difficult to turn. It's a crappy
> valve that is about " in diameter and no ears, and I sometimes have
> to get the channel locks out to get it to turn. Is this normal? Is
> there a way to replace it with something that works a bit better?
>
> 2) I get A LOT of water draining out of it when I drain it. I
> drain it every day when I am done with it, and the last couple of days
> I've noticed the water coming out has a nice orange color with
> suspended rust particles in it. Is this normal or is it something I
> should be worried about?
>
> 3) Should I be leaving the drain valve open or closing it when
> it is done draining?
>
>
>
> You would think that if it is possible for someone to build an
> airplane in their garage, the tool guys could figure out how to put a
> good drain valve on the compressor and do some kind of rust prevention
> in the tank :P
>
>
>
> Thanks all...
>
>
>
> James
>
> #40400
>
> Just completed prosealing the rudder....
>
Message 14
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=RrQSYgFt66CEjhhvGquZ+4YJj9cDpputCsB4+UfjuYqoQczcIhl3GL9LddC9/V1aI7PmOSvyJlI5qeDWtApcOiCsYtNtRCf57UP3wnAVEE3cTQcevEGUaIQUqSJbUjxwF9fK7fmiQ1aVtMA/y39CL3NVj+IMJuNCBChZ4xWUOBY=
;
| Subject: | Re: stupid compressor tricks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
James,
The rusty water is normal and is just a byproduct of
compressing the moisture out of the ambient air. I
installed an automatic drain on my compressor tank, it
opens briefly each time the compressor cycles. It is
easy to install and was about $10 from Harbor Freight.
Steve 40212 wings
--- James Ochs <jochs@froody.org> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I have one of those craftsman compressors with the
> 26 gallon tank and have a
> couple of questions about what its doing
>
>
>
> 1) the drain valve is very difficult to turn.
> Its a crappy valve
> that is about in diameter and no ears, and I
> sometimes have to get the
> channel locks out to get it to turn. Is this
> normal? Is there a way to
> replace it with something that works a bit better?
>
> 2) I get A LOT of water draining out of it
> when I drain it. I drain
> it every day when I am done with it, and the last
> couple of days Ive
> noticed the water coming out has a nice orange color
> with suspended rust
> particles in it. Is this normal or is it something
> I should be worried
> about?
>
> 3) Should I be leaving the drain valve open or
> closing it when it is
> done draining?
>
>
>
> You would think that if it is possible for someone
> to build an airplane in
> their garage, the tool guys could figure out how to
> put a good drain valve
> on the compressor and do some kind of rust
> prevention in the tank :P
>
>
>
> Thanks all
>
>
>
> James
>
> #40400
>
> Just completed prosealing the rudder.
>
>
Message 15
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spamd2.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_4 Message came from 63.163.37-39.x network
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance fuel senders |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
These would be hooked up to your fuel computer, right??? So, if a guy
wanted you could have the totalizer and either the float or capacitance
senders hooked up to gauges since the totalizer has nothing to do with the
fuel quantity gauges, right???
Sorry for the beginner questions. My SB wing's on it's way in about a month
and a half and I'm just trying to get a feel for what I'm going to be
needing. I did order the float senders from Vans when I ordered the kit.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
>
> They attach inline in the fuel system and measure the fuel that goes by.
I
> little chip in the controls actually train the totalizer in burn rate and
> fuel remaining.
>
> Bob K
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
> Britton
> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 4:35 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton"
<william@gbta.net>
>
> Bob, I guess I'm not familiar with totalizers. Could you explain them
> further. How do they differ from the senders???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Emp #40137
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 10:46 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
> >
> > James
> >
> > I decided to go with totalizers, and not put senders in the tanks.
After
> a
> > short learning session, they will be more accurate than either type of
> fuel
> > sender..
> > Bob K
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
> > Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 3:01 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive
> > solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders
> > to floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm
> > trying to figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10
> > yet? Any ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the
> > concentric tubes as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone
> > heard from vans recently on this issue?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > James
> > #40400
> >
> > --
> > There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw
> > yourself at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide
> to
> > the Galaxy'
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 16
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=f0z909GdHeISWZRJR1SYGzEzsZUEwLFeiTHcDSgKkeICapN678ac+70qqDvB3hTTM7vlRgBMj+gfzg/Dyj8U1r7IoulT7AKAd3v3fPlYDmLa7hyxraX6U658Mh6WepBnANM1KO2RDjELfcRJYYd9xgdARZYpUuLzXbi43syRViQ=
;
| Subject: | Capacitance fuel senders |
The only negative about this is that if there is a fuel leak upstream of the flow
measuring device you might not know it until you run out of fuel.
Niko
"bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann"
James
I decided to go with totalizers, and not put senders in the tanks. After a
short learning session, they will be more accurate than either type of fuel
sender..
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs
Hi All,
I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive
solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders
to floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm
trying to figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10
yet? Any ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the
concentric tubes as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone
heard from vans recently on this issue?
Thanks,
James
#40400
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw
yourself at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to
the Galaxy'
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: stupid compressor tricks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'll agree with what your other reply from Mark said. Just replace the
valve...should be a couple bucks and a few minutes.
I don't get much water in the winter months, but in the summer I get
a ton. It's all a factor of the humidity in the air....ALL compressors
do it. I spent years owning a SCUBA operation...those compressors
have the same issues. Many people spend lots of money on auto drain
valves...probably not worth it for a small home compressor.
The water will be orange because of surface rust. It's probably not at
all severe. Many many compressors will do that. My ancient compressor
is still just fine, and it's always had water in it. I actually went
2 or 3 years without draning it. It's really probably no big deal that
it comes out a bit orange. Also, the more often you drain it the less
you'll probably notice it. One thing that would help kill the rust is
if the tank obtained an oily coating inside. Sometimes this happens
naturally over time with an oil lubed pump. Not necessarily a good
thing for when you plan to paint, but it would help the tank out.
I think the tank will last many many many years no matter what you do.
As for draining, I drain every couple days in the summer, every week
or month in the winter...just depends on how much I run the compressor.
Wheny ou drain it, just let it slowly drain (Not wide open) until the
water is mostly stopped, then close it and leave it.
This really illustrates why a water separator inline is a good idea.
Last summer on hot and humid days, my hand tools would have air moist
enough to have a slight mist coming out sometimes. I put in an
FRL (left off the "L") and it's much better now. I have the
lubricator plumbed on a separate line that I plug in only when
I use my high flowing rotary tools, like the drill and die grinder.
Everything else runs oil free.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
James Ochs wrote:
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I have one of those craftsman compressors with the 26 gallon tank and
> have a couple of questions about what its doing
>
>
>
> 1) the drain valve is very difficult to turn. Its a crappy valve
> that is about in diameter and no ears, and I sometimes have to get
> the channel locks out to get it to turn. Is this normal? Is there a
> way to replace it with something that works a bit better?
>
> 2) I get A LOT of water draining out of it when I drain it. I
> drain it every day when I am done with it, and the last couple of days
> Ive noticed the water coming out has a nice orange color with suspended
> rust particles in it. Is this normal or is it something I should be
> worried about?
>
> 3) Should I be leaving the drain valve open or closing it when it
> is done draining?
>
>
>
> You would think that if it is possible for someone to build an airplane
> in their garage, the tool guys could figure out how to put a good drain
> valve on the compressor and do some kind of rust prevention in the tank :P
>
>
>
> Thanks all
>
>
>
> James
>
> #40400
>
> Just completed prosealing the rudder.
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitance fuel senders |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I decided to go with totalizers, and not put senders in the tanks. After
a
> short learning session, they will be more accurate than either type of
fuel
> sender..
> Bob K
Bob,
Check the FARs... Part 91.205 *requires* fuel quantity indication for each
tank.
91.205(b)(9) reads:
(9) Fuel gauge indicating the quantity of fuel in each tank.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | stupid compressor tricks |
Couple of other things to note here.
My 60gal compressor sits in air conditioned space here in the DFW area that also
has a dehumidifier in it. RH probably sits around 20 - 40 % I also have
a water separator coming off the compressor. Even with all of that moisture removal,
in a fairly dry climate, the second the air lines hit my warmer workshop
I tend to get condensate. I finally picked up another water separator and
put quick connects on it and put it on right before my flexible hose. Took out
a bunch more water during the winter months.
Also, if you have a small compressor tank and you don't drain regularly in a
humid environment, you will find that your compressor runs much more often. Remember,
water is not compressible so if you end up with a large amount of water
in your tank, you are effectively decreasing the size of the tank.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #40352
Elevators
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: stupid compressor tricks
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'll agree with what your other reply from Mark said. Just replace the valve...should
be a couple bucks and a few minutes.
I don't get much water in the winter months, but in the summer I get a ton. It's
all a factor of the humidity in the air....ALL compressors do it. I spent years
owning a SCUBA operation...those compressors have the same issues. Many people
spend lots of money on auto drain valves...probably not worth it for a small
home compressor.
The water will be orange because of surface rust. It's probably not at all severe.
Many many compressors will do that. My ancient compressor is still just
fine, and it's always had water in it. I actually went
2 or 3 years without draning it. It's really probably no big deal that it comes
out a bit orange. Also, the more often you drain it the less you'll probably
notice it. One thing that would help kill the rust is if the tank obtained an
oily coating inside. Sometimes this happens naturally over time with an oil
lubed pump. Not necessarily a good thing for when you plan to paint, but it
would help the tank out.
I think the tank will last many many many years no matter what you do.
As for draining, I drain every couple days in the summer, every week or month in
the winter...just depends on how much I run the compressor.
Wheny ou drain it, just let it slowly drain (Not wide open) until the water is
mostly stopped, then close it and leave it.
This really illustrates why a water separator inline is a good idea.
Last summer on hot and humid days, my hand tools would have air moist enough to
have a slight mist coming out sometimes. I put in an FRL (left off the "L")
and it's much better now. I have the lubricator plumbed on a separate line that
I plug in only when I use my high flowing rotary tools, like the drill and
die grinder.
Everything else runs oil free.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
James Ochs wrote:
> Hi all,
>
>
> I have one of those craftsman compressors with the 26 gallon tank and
> have a couple of questions about what it's doing...
>
>
> 1) the drain valve is very difficult to turn. It's a crappy valve
> that is about =BD" in diameter and no ears, and I sometimes have to get
> the channel locks out to get it to turn. Is this normal? Is there a
> way to replace it with something that works a bit better?
>
> 2) I get A LOT of water draining out of it when I drain it. I
> drain it every day when I am done with it, and the last couple of days
> I've noticed the water coming out has a nice orange color with
> suspended rust particles in it. Is this normal or is it something I
> should be worried about?
>
> 3) Should I be leaving the drain valve open or closing it when it
> is done draining?
>
>
> You would think that if it is possible for someone to build an
> airplane in their garage, the tool guys could figure out how to put a
> good drain valve on the compressor and do some kind of rust prevention
> in the tank :P
>
>
> Thanks all...
>
>
> James
>
> #40400
>
> Just completed prosealing the rudder....
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Which bucking bar |
I'm pretty sure that I used an Avery #610 for almost all of the tail
stuff, if it wasn't that it was the #620. It was NOT the "special" one.
That one is actually called out in the manual and there's an option to
either use that or blind rivets.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Which bucking bar
Which bucking bar are you guys using for the HS-905 nose ribs on the
HS??? Is this where the special RV-10 bucking bar comes into play???
TIA
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
Riveting HS
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | stupid compressor tricks |
I think just about all compressors come with that setup for draining. I replaced
it with an elbow, short section of pipe, a standard shutoff valve and then
a 45 elbow to direct flow toward the floor. I think the fittings are =BC NPT.
Really nice to be able to just reach down and open the valve...
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: stupid compressor tricks
Hi all,
I have one of those craftsman compressors with the 26 gallon tank and have a couple
of questions about what it's doing...
1) the drain valve is very difficult to turn. It's a crappy valve that is
about =BD" in diameter and no ears, and I sometimes have to get the channel
locks out to get it to turn. Is this normal? Is there a way to replace it with
something that works a bit better?
2) I get A LOT of water draining out of it when I drain it. I drain it every
day when I am done with it, and the last couple of days I've noticed the
water coming out has a nice orange color with suspended rust particles in it.
Is this normal or is it something I should be worried about?
3) Should I be leaving the drain valve open or closing it when it is done
draining?
You would think that if it is possible for someone to build an airplane in their
garage, the tool guys could figure out how to put a good drain valve on the
compressor and do some kind of rust prevention in the tank :P
Thanks all...
James
#40400
Just completed prosealing the rudder....
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | stupid compressor tricks |
Normal stuff James. Go back to working on the plane. The more you run the compressor
in humid weather the more moisture you will pick up. As it dries out this
summer the water content will drop. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: stupid compressor tricks
Hi all,
I have one of those craftsman compressors with the 26 gallon tank and have a couple
of questions about what it's doing...
1) the drain valve is very difficult to turn. It's a crappy valve that is
about =BD" in diameter and no ears, and I sometimes have to get the channel
locks out to get it to turn. Is this normal? Is there a way to replace it with
something that works a bit better?
2) I get A LOT of water draining out of it when I drain it. I drain it every
day when I am done with it, and the last couple of days I've noticed the
water coming out has a nice orange color with suspended rust particles in it.
Is this normal or is it something I should be worried about?
3) Should I be leaving the drain valve open or closing it when it is done
draining?
You would think that if it is possible for someone to build an airplane in their
garage, the tool guys could figure out how to put a good drain valve on the
compressor and do some kind of rust prevention in the tank :P
Thanks all...
James
#40400
Just completed prosealing the rudder....
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Flap mounting holes |
The plans don't show it but you need to use the bushings supplied. Look
in your bags and you will find some bushings already the correct size.
Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked@earthlink.net
Subject: RV10-List: Flap mounting holes
I mounted the left flap tonight and found the holes in the flap hinge,
the portion that attaches to the wing has a larger hole than the flap
brackets (AN-4 bolt) that are on the flap itself. I referenced the plans
and could not find if it gets bushed anywhere. Is this normal for anyone
else? I can't believe that this is the way it should be for final
assembly. The wings plans don't indicate to drill out those brackets
only to deburr the holes. I can't imagine I drilled them larger at some
point for no reason.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: John W. Cox <mailto:johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 6:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
Bruce, don't worry I picked up the slack watching when you left.
Randy has still not eaten much. Pulling the plane out then back between
thundershowers was a hoot. Tim James flying GIB with Rob Hickman in
Robs RV-4 have captured some inspirational inflight Aircraft to Aircraft
video. Rob and Randy are downloading the data points from the ACS2500
right now. Way too cool. The smell of the new engine is a unique
memory. Digital video will be forwarded to Tim Olson for final
presentation after Randy gets dinner.
Went out again this afternoon. The absolute kick in the pants
was asking Randy to pull up at VANS when he got back from his hour and a
half run dodging the cells. Dick was coming out of the building to jump
in the RV-9 and head home. He did a big U turn back into the building
and out came the entire staff to give Randy and his family kudos they so
richly deserve for completing the entire aircraft and making sure every
single system worked. No high speed passes with this owner. Still
digitals images of the event will be sent to Tim as well.
I have to get my wet clothes off and change into something
dry..... But they say it's a warm rain here this time of year.
John Cox - KUAO
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BBreckenridge@att.net
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 3:55 PM
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
Ok, like this is really driving me crazy. I'm only now, 5 hours
later, starting to "feel normal" again. I can't imagine how Randy
feels!! I mean, he probably won't tell you about his restless night,
getting up at 4:30am, not eating a good breakfast, etc... so, I am. He
spent some family time around the lunch hour with plans to do some more
flying while the weather was clear. He's probably still out there
flying around incoming cells. It was an exhilarating experience to be
there. As many have said before, keep pounding those rivets -you're in
for the ride of your life!!
Bruce
Do not archive
Message 24
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Good post. I like these "basic" posts. I need them! Keep them coming,
Ladies and Gents. The accumulated posts should be the definitive resource,
or at least definitive opinion.
John J
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RV10-List: milestone #1
Just finished the Vertical Stab! 29 hours, which included rattle can
priming. Is it just me or does it always take longer to rivet than you
think? I figured that would be one of the faster parts of the build, but
just the VS took me a full 10 hours to rivet. Maybe I just needed a steep
learning curve on technique.
Oh, I also contacted my local EAA Tech Counselor last Friday, and met him at
a local Fly-in on Saturday. I wanted to establish contact with a TC and get
my work on the VS looked at before I closed it up. He said good to go and
we filled out the form. As a side note, he told me that if you get at least
3 TC inspections done during the course of your build, EAA's insurance
program will cover you on first flight (I guess provided you get the
coverage; it's not automatic), and he recommended that RVs only need 5-6
inspections during build. I assume some of you know this and may be able to
expound some. I thought it a good idea to share with the rest of us in the
early stages to get plugged in. It also helps to have that second set of
experienced eyes looking over your work!
Rob Wright
#40392
N524RX Reserved
Emp kit ~15% done
Message 25
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P.S. I was told for our RV-10 that EAA will cover you (or at least me!) only if
you have 1000 hours total time. I thought EAA was supposed to be on our side?
TDT
________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List: milestone #1
Good post. I like these "basic" posts. I need them! Keep them coming, Ladies
and Gents. The accumulated posts should be the definitive resource, or at least
definitive opinion.
John J
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 9:20 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: milestone #1
=09
=09
Just finished the Vertical Stab! 29 hours, which included rattle can priming.
Is it just me or does it always take longer to rivet than you think?
I figured that would be one of the faster parts of the build, but just the VS
took me a full 10 hours to rivet. Maybe I just needed a steep learning curve
on technique...
Oh, I also contacted my local EAA Tech Counselor last Friday, and met him
at a local Fly-in on Saturday. I wanted to establish contact with a TC and
get my work on the VS looked at before I closed it up. He said good to go and
we filled out the form. As a side note, he told me that if you get at least
3 TC inspections done during the course of your build, EAA's insurance program
will cover you on first flight (I guess provided you get the coverage; it's
not automatic), and he recommended that RVs only need 5-6 inspections during build.
I assume some of you know this and may be able to expound some. I thought
it a good idea to share with the rest of us in the early stages to get plugged
in. It also helps to have that second set of experienced eyes looking over
your work!
Rob Wright
#40392
N524RX Reserved
Emp kit ~15% done
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Flap Motor |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Tim,
I would not drive the flap motor directly from the 24 volt bus. Bad things WILL
happen.
I would also be carefull about how you reduce the voltage. An off the shelf linear
voltage regulator will overheat. You need a switching type of voltage regulator
to drop the voltage. Not a big deal to do.
Jim C
#40192
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: stupid compressor tricks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
Ok, I feel better. Thanks for all the responses... I'm going to go get
the parts to replace that valve tonight.
I live in the bay area in California, and we are just coming off of a
very wet rainy season so its been fairly humid (well by California
standards anyway) and thats probably what it is.
I have an inline water trap and oiler in my shop setup. BTW, just to
keep me from doing something stupid I buy blue and red hoses... all blue
hoses are used before the oiler, all the red ones are used after the
oiler. That way its really easy for me keep from using the oiled line
with a sprayer or blower ;)
As another side note, I just bought one of those nifty rivet squeezers
and part of the instructions they sent with it suggest to *NOT* put any
oil in the tool because it uses a fair bit of grease on the moving parts
inside the cylinders and that the oil will act as a solvent on the
grease, then you will need to get it rebuilt again much sooner...
Thanks,
James
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> Normal stuff James. Go back to working on the plane. The more you run
> the compressor in humid weather the more moisture you will pick up. As
> it dries out this summer the water content will drop. Randy
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *James Ochs
> *Sent:* Monday, May 23, 2005 10:24 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: stupid compressor tricks
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have one of those craftsman compressors with the 26 gallon tank and
> have a couple of questions about what its doing
>
> 1) the drain valve is very difficult to turn. Its a crappy valve that
> is about in diameter and no ears, and I sometimes have to get the
> channel locks out to get it to turn. Is this normal? Is there a way to
> replace it with something that works a bit better?
>
> 2) I get A LOT of water draining out of it when I drain it. I drain it
> every day when I am done with it, and the last couple of days Ive
> noticed the water coming out has a nice orange color with suspended
> rust particles in it. Is this normal or is it something I should be
> worried about?
>
> 3) Should I be leaving the drain valve open or closing it when it is
> done draining?
>
> You would think that if it is possible for someone to build an
> airplane in their garage, the tool guys could figure out how to put a
> good drain valve on the compressor and do some kind of rust prevention
> in the tank :P
>
> Thanks all
>
> James
>
> #40400
>
> Just completed prosealing the rudder.
>
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself
at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'
Message 28
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| Subject: | stupid compressor tricks |
I drain mine about every 2 weeks. I also get about a cup of water. I have my compressor
in the basement and I've piped the air up into my garage. I also have
a switch both in the garage and in the basement to turn it off and on. There
have been many nights though it has turned on and woke me up "forgot to turn
it off.....again" It's great my wife puts up with me sometimes. The air in
my basement is cold and it is more humid down there too which is why I'm sure
I get so much water. But it was been really nice not to have the compressor
in the garage.
Anyway, I just drain it and close it back off. If you aren't going to use it for
awhile it would probably be best to leave it open during that time.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: stupid compressor tricks
Hi all,
I have one of those craftsman compressors with the 26 gallon tank and have a couple
of questions about what it's doing...
1) the drain valve is very difficult to turn. It's a crappy valve that is
about =BD" in diameter and no ears, and I sometimes have to get the channel
locks out to get it to turn. Is this normal? Is there a way to replace it with
something that works a bit better?
2) I get A LOT of water draining out of it when I drain it. I drain it every
day when I am done with it, and the last couple of days I've noticed the
water coming out has a nice orange color with suspended rust particles in it.
Is this normal or is it something I should be worried about?
3) Should I be leaving the drain valve open or closing it when it is done
draining?
You would think that if it is possible for someone to build an airplane in their
garage, the tool guys could figure out how to put a good drain valve on the
compressor and do some kind of rust prevention in the tank :P
Thanks all...
James
#40400
Just completed prosealing the rudder....
Message 29
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| Subject: | Instrument Flightschool overstock sale |
For some reason, Builder's Bookstore has become way overstocked on Jeppesen's Instrument
FliteSchool CD.
If you are considering an instrument rating, these FliteSchool CDs is a neat way
to get started with the knowledge portion. Fliteschool is an interactive homestudy
course with graphics, animation, and video. It also includes electronic
versions of the Jeppesen Instrument textbook, the FAR/AIM, and a testprep program
giving all the FAA written questions, answers and explanations. It lets
you take practice tests, and once you've passed, your scores are sent to Jeppesen
and you get a written sign-off to take the actual FAA test.
This is normally a $160 item, but I've got 15 to sell for $99.95. We'll keep this
going till the end of the week or until they sell out sell out.
Here's the web address with more details
http://www.buildersbooks.com/instrument_fliteschool_jeppesen.htm
If you want to order one on-line, write "price $99.95 per Andy" in the order form
special instruction box, or jest call and order by phone at 800 780-4115
Thanks,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
do not archive
Message 30
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| Subject: | Which bucking bar |
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10@4sythe.com
I first tried to use the special HS bucking bar on the nose ribs but the
angle was never right on any of the sides. I ended up using a short one
that I have that has a 45 degree angle on it. It was easier then to get
that angled side parallel with the skin.
Make sure you use plenty of pressure on the bucking bar in this area.
Also, on the rivets just aft of the front spar. If you don't apply good
back pressure here, the mushroom set on the rivet gun hits just near the
spar. The spar isn't moving and without good back pressure and
attention, you can get some nice dents here.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
Wings (to be delivered tomorrow..yipeeee)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Which bucking bar
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That special bucking bar starts coming in when you rivet the elevator
skins to the rear of the elevator spar. The 2 skins are facing you like
2 big reed valves, and you need a bar that can get in between them and
get down on the rivets. With 2 people, that part of the construction
went really well for me. I don't think it was for the nose ribs.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> Which bucking bar are you guys using for the HS-905 nose ribs on the
> HS??? Is this where the special RV-10 bucking bar comes into play???
>
> TIA
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Emp #40137
> Riveting HS
Message 31
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| Subject: | RE: Capacitance fuel senders |
> I decided to go with totalizers, and not put senders in the tanks.
> After a short learning session, they will be more accurate than either
> type of Fuel sender..
> Bob K
Bob,
Totalizers are fine and I plan to use one also but they dont tell you if you have
a leak. I would still put in the resistive senders. In the old days before
the Flowscan, accurate readings from capacitance senders were preferred. Today
resistance senders AND totalizers are fine.
Do not archive
William
#40237
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Flap mounting holes |
Rick
I had the same problem, turns out that there are bushes that go in here.
Regards
Dave
#40159
----- Original Message -----
From: ricksked@earthlink.net
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 5:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flap mounting holes
I mounted the left flap tonight and found the holes in the flap hinge, the portion
that attaches to the wing has a larger hole than the flap brackets (AN-4
bolt) that are on the flap itself. I referenced the plans and could not find
if it gets bushed anywhere. Is this normal for anyone else? I can't believe that
this is the way it should be for final assembly. The wings plans don't indicate
to drill out those brackets only to deburr the holes. I can't imagine I drilled
them larger at some point for no reason.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: John W. Cox
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 6:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
Bruce, don't worry I picked up the slack watching when you left. Randy has
still not eaten much. Pulling the plane out then back between thundershowers
was a hoot. Tim James flying GIB with Rob Hickman in Robs RV-4 have captured
some inspirational inflight Aircraft to Aircraft video. Rob and Randy are downloading
the data points from the ACS2500 right now. Way too cool. The smell
of the new engine is a unique memory. Digital video will be forwarded to Tim
Olson for final presentation after Randy gets dinner.
Went out again this afternoon. The absolute kick in the pants was asking Randy
to pull up at VANS when he got back from his hour and a half run dodging
the cells. Dick was coming out of the building to jump in the RV-9 and head home.
He did a big U turn back into the building and out came the entire staff
to give Randy and his family kudos they so richly deserve for completing the
entire aircraft and making sure every single system worked. No high speed passes
with this owner. Still digitals images of the event will be sent to Tim
as well.
I have to get my wet clothes off and change into something dry... But they
say it's a warm rain here this time of year.
John Cox - KUAO
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BBreckenridge@att.net
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 3:55 PM
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
Ok, like this is really driving me crazy. I'm only now, 5 hours later, starting
to "feel normal" again. I can't imagine how Randy feels!! I mean, he probably
won't tell you about his restless night, getting up at 4:30am, not eating
a good breakfast, etc... so, I am. He spent some family time around the lunch
hour with plans to do some more flying while the weather was clear. He's
probably still out there flying around incoming cells. It was an exhilarating
experience to be there. As many have said before, keep pounding those rivets
-you're in for the ride of your life!!
Bruce
Do not archive
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Which bucking bar |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@adelphia.net>
You can use almost anything as a bucking bar. The surface should be smooth
and the object needs only enough mass to do the job. I've used steel
collars, flat bars clamped to other bars to provide mass, and found some
very useful ones at body shop supply houses-only they call them dollys.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 34
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| Subject: | RE: Capacitance fuel senders |
Agree with William, especially when you forget to reset the totalizer
after a fill-up (ask me how I know ;-)
dw
RV-6
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Curtis
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Capacitance fuel senders
> I decided to go with totalizers, and not put senders in the tanks.
> After a short learning session, they will be more accurate than either
> type of Fuel sender..
> Bob K
Bob,
Totalizers are fine and I plan to use one also but they don't tell you
if you have a leak. I would still put in the resistive senders. In the
old days before the Flowscan, accurate readings from capacitance senders
were preferred. Today resistance senders AND totalizers are fine.
Do not archive
William
#40237
Message 35
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|
And now for something somewhat different..... So I've looked through the archives
on this subject and found that many people use oxygen in a permanent or
portable manner. Aerox and Mountain High seem to be the most popular systems
(no surprise there) but what I haven't been able to find is a good comparison.
Being that I am building an RV-10 and I currently expect the average trip to
be in the 1000 mile and 3 person area, I plan on installing a permanent mount
system and transfill the tank myself (please, let's not go down that discussion
path).
So my big question is does anyone have a comparison between the two systems.
I found an old Aviation Consumer article on the Nelson site but it's a bit outdated.
What I really want to know is if the Mountain High EDSip Pulse Demand
System really conserves oxygen well enough and has enough benefits to justify
a 6k+, 4 seat system. I haven't been able to find any endurance numbers on their
site. I have a while before I need to make this decision but curiosity has
been bugging me on it. I'm willing to pay a premium for a more advanced system
that allows me to go 2-3 times longer between fills but I want the numbers
to back it up.
Michael Sausen
#40352
Elevators
Message 36
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I would post this on the Lancair LML site. If you're not a member of that,
I can do it for you. They have had discussions about this very thing, so a
search of the LML archives might worthwhile.
lml@lancaironline.net
John Jessen
-> Emp (2%)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RV10-List: Oxygen systems
And now for something somewhat different..... So I've looked through the
archives on this subject and found that many people use oxygen in a
permanent or portable manner. Aerox and Mountain High seem to be the most
popular systems (no surprise there) but what I haven't been able to find is
a good comparison. Being that I am building an RV-10 and I currently expect
the average trip to be in the 1000 mile and 3 person area, I plan on
installing a permanent mount system and transfill the tank myself (please,
let's not go down that discussion path).
So my big question is does anyone have a comparison between the two
systems. I found an old Aviation Consumer article on the Nelson site but
it's a bit outdated. What I really want to know is if the Mountain High
EDSip Pulse Demand System really conserves oxygen well enough and has enough
benefits to justify a 6k+, 4 seat system. I haven't been able to find any
endurance numbers on their site. I have a while before I need to make this
decision but curiosity has been bugging me on it. I'm willing to pay a
premium for a more advanced system that allows me to go 2-3 times longer
between fills but I want the numbers to back it up.
Michael Sausen
#40352
Elevators
Message 37
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|
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=zc09hFP9MWBSyxSY98lWqnrOzv20lVB2gwzNQ60ClMonIZcYecg8SYRrnvHM8QjkETtM0vZ/wxJoFrf0Sv2NKl8S02A4dNjajVEP/EmGYdTevN4/OEyEkSFKAsH8EXgzh10PD3pbeBa14xj/wFxFb1Q6JMGZ+RtISiegLxykPr0=
;
I use the Mountain High system in my glider. It reduces oxygen consumption to
a minimum. Rebreather cannula's are good, but this is a whole order of magnitude
better. Their in-panel system looks very good, but expensive. Probably worth
the cost, especially in the RV aircraft since you can get into oxygen altitudes
so easily.
I like to use oxygen above about 9,000 to reduce fatigue and a headache. I have
a rebreather cannula and a small hand bottle in the -6A, and does not have major
endurance. My glider has an 18 cf bottle and might last the whole season.
Filling you own bottle is great if you can get at it easily to remove. We use
welders oxygen all the time and don't get flash burns.
Bruce Patton
John Jessen <jjessen@rcn.com> wrote:
I would post this on the Lancair LML site. If you're not a member of that, I can
do it for you. They have had discussions about this very thing, so a search
of the LML archives might worthwhile.
lml@lancaironline.net
John Jessen
-> Emp (2%)
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Subject: RV10-List: Oxygen systems
And now for something somewhat different..... So I've looked through the archives
on this subject and found that many people use oxygen in a permanent or
portable manner. Aerox and Mountain High seem to be the most popular systems
(no surprise there) but what I haven't been able to find is a good comparison.
Being that I am building an RV-10 and I currently expect the average trip to
be in the 1000 mile and 3 person area, I plan on installing a permanent mount
system and transfill the tank myself (please, let's not go down that discussion
path).
So my big question is does anyone have a comparison between the two systems.
I found an old Aviation Consumer article on the Nelson site but it's a bit outdated.
What I really want to know is if the Mountain High EDSip Pulse Demand
System really conserves oxygen well enough and has enough benefits to justify
a 6k+, 4 seat system. I haven't been able to find any endurance numbers on their
site. I have a while before I need to make this decision but curiosity has
been bugging me on it. I'm willing to pay a premium for a more advanced system
that allows me to go 2-3 times longer between fills but I want the numbers
to back it up.
Michael Sausen
#40352
Elevators
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Which bucking bar |
<000c01c5616e$f49a0ac0$d7f6af45@Albert>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
We had a "form" stake. Very dense metal about 1/4" thick, 2" wide & 30" long
with nail holes along its flat side for putting up concrete pour forms.
Cleaned up an abused one, polished the pointed tip, used two hands to hold
it in place, one in the middle, one on the beaten end. Able to reach into
tight areas to set rivets. It takes time & two people to set every rivet BUT
it is possible. Construction firms are using more wooden stakes but there
should a concrete contractor in your area that has an old, well worn, beaten
& bent one laying around. The one we had didn't rust either. KABONG (GBA
& GWB) Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Which bucking bar
> You can use almost anything as a bucking bar. The surface should be smooth
> and the object needs only enough mass to do the job. I've used steel
> collars, > Albert Gardner
> RV-9A 872RV
> Yuma, AZ
Message 39
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
G'day all,
Currently planning my antenna installation. I will be going with a GNS430
and SL30 for all Nav/Comms. Bent whip on belly, straight whip on top for
comms. I will be using the Archer nav antenna(s) in the wingtip. I was
thinking of one in each side for dual redundancy and optimum performance.
Is this overkill?
I also notice that there is not much info in the way of installation
material for Garmin products on the Garmin website. Anyone know of a source
of such material?
TIA
Ron
40187 Wings
Message 40
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s=test1; d=earthlink.net;
b=Wis/0rkTL/AsCa2gl5XwUCo9hXA5LhW3c7lSr4JM7B2kNZE45kwldU4nA2ASSD8u;
| Subject: | Re: RE: Flap Motor |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Hi Tim:
I wouldn't venture a guess on running the 12 motor at 24 volts.
Van sells a flap position switch sytem that I believe does provide the one
click up function you mention. See
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1117073011-52-705&browse=airframe&product=fps
Dick Sipp
40065
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Flap Motor
For various reasons, we're going to have a 24 V bus system in our -10, which
can be a pain sometimes, like with the 12 V flap motor.
For the short duration that the Flap motor runs, what about the crazy idea
of just going ahead and running that sucker on 24 volts? Might speed up the
Flap deployment, too. Or is that just a stupid way to burn out the motor?
While we're on the subject, is anyone doing a simple limit-switch
"one-touch" flap retraction arrangement? Where are you mounting the limit
switch? On the flaps themselves, or is there any way to do it on the flap
motor or actuator assembly?
TDT
40025
Message 41
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| Subject: | RE: Alternator? (Garmin install manuals) |
>I also notice that there is not much info in the way of installation
>material for Garmin products on the Garmin website. Anyone know of
> a source of such material?
>
>TIA
>Ron
>40187 Wings
Ron,
Garmin took most of their installation manuals off the "public" side of their website
a while back. I have most of the Garmin install manuals however. Let me
know which one(s) you need.
William
#40237
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: stupid compressor tricks |
Harbor Freight and Salvage makes an automatic drain valve that is
inexpensive. I bought one but have not installed it yet.
Bob Spudis
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Which bucking bar |
Bill,
The special bar is not for the nose but for the elevator rear spar and you will
most likely need it, try to borrow one if you can, three of us swapped one around
here in Las Vegas. On the leading edge HS I used a bar that has a rounded
nose, Avery number 610. It almost matched the shape of the leading edge. I also
have found the following handy thru almost completing the wings. Avery #'s
620, 635, 670, 690 and I borrowed a 685 to get the wing top skins to rear spar
completed. Hope that helps.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 8:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Which bucking bar
Which bucking bar are you guys using for the HS-905 nose ribs on the HS??? Is
this where the special RV-10 bucking bar comes into play???
TIA
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
Riveting HS
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitance fuel senders |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Bill,
Basically your engine monitor (or whatever you plan to use to manage fuel)
if capable, gets a signal from a flow sensor that calcs amount of fuel
flowing through the fuel line, it will calculate GPH and total fuel used.
It's how the fighters and transports do it. Be advisded it needs ot be
calibrated and setup for your aircraft.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton"
> <william@gbta.net>
>
> Bob, I guess I'm not familiar with totalizers. Could you explain them
> further. How do they differ from the senders???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Emp #40137
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 10:46 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
>>
>> James
>>
>> I decided to go with totalizers, and not put senders in the tanks. After
> a
>> short learning session, they will be more accurate than either type of
> fuel
>> sender..
>> Bob K
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
>> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 3:01 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive
>> solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders
>> to floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm
>> trying to figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10
>> yet? Any ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the
>> concentric tubes as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone
>> heard from vans recently on this issue?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> James
>> #40400
>>
>> --
>> There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw
>> yourself at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide
> to
>> the Galaxy'
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Flap mounting holes |
Thanks Dave,
I found the bushings, and thanks to Tim I didn't install them. They are too wide
to get the bottom skins over to install. I'm still looking for the revision
to the plans....I know it's here somewhere. Mike Howe referenced a step #13 on
his web page.....not in my step 13 though. I know I read about a revision somewhere,
maybe on Van's page.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave & Brenda Emond
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap mounting holes
Rick
I had the same problem, turns out that there are bushes that go in here.
Regards
Dave
#40159
----- Original Message -----
From: ricksked@earthlink.net
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 5:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flap mounting holes
I mounted the left flap tonight and found the holes in the flap hinge, the
portion that attaches to the wing has a larger hole than the flap brackets (AN-4
bolt) that are on the flap itself. I referenced the plans and could not find
if it gets bushed anywhere. Is this normal for anyone else? I can't believe
that this is the way it should be for final assembly. The wings plans don't indicate
to drill out those brackets only to deburr the holes. I can't imagine I
drilled them larger at some point for no reason.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: John W. Cox
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 6:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
Bruce, don't worry I picked up the slack watching when you left. Randy has
still not eaten much. Pulling the plane out then back between thundershowers
was a hoot. Tim James flying GIB with Rob Hickman in Robs RV-4 have captured
some inspirational inflight Aircraft to Aircraft video. Rob and Randy are
downloading the data points from the ACS2500 right now. Way too cool. The smell
of the new engine is a unique memory. Digital video will be forwarded to
Tim Olson for final presentation after Randy gets dinner.
Went out again this afternoon. The absolute kick in the pants was asking
Randy to pull up at VANS when he got back from his hour and a half run dodging
the cells. Dick was coming out of the building to jump in the RV-9 and head
home. He did a big U turn back into the building and out came the entire staff
to give Randy and his family kudos they so richly deserve for completing the
entire aircraft and making sure every single system worked. No high speed passes
with this owner. Still digitals images of the event will be sent to Tim
as well.
I have to get my wet clothes off and change into something dry... But they
say it's a warm rain here this time of year.
John Cox - KUAO
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BBreckenridge@att.net
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 3:55 PM
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
Ok, like this is really driving me crazy. I'm only now, 5 hours later, starting
to "feel normal" again. I can't imagine how Randy feels!! I mean, he
probably won't tell you about his restless night, getting up at 4:30am, not eating
a good breakfast, etc... so, I am. He spent some family time around the
lunch hour with plans to do some more flying while the weather was clear. He's
probably still out there flying around incoming cells. It was an exhilarating
experience to be there. As many have said before, keep pounding those rivets
-you're in for the ride of your life!!
Bruce
Do not archive
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: stupid compressor tricks |
James,
It's normal, the inside of the tank is bare steel, as air is compressed it gives
up it's moisture, (hence the rust and brown water) the higher the humidity the
more condensation forms and the more the tank fills. I drain mine every few
days because the RH here is about 10 percent, in a place like Florida your tank
can fill considerable with water. If anynoe remembers James McClow, he has
several gallons in his tank and could not figure out why he was running out of
air until he found the drain....He was in Seminole Florida. I drain the water
under pressure, run the compressor a minute to completely purge and then close
the valve. I use a pair of duck bill pliers because my valve is stubborn as
well. Most manufactuers recommend draining the tank after each days use.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: James Ochs
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 10:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: stupid compressor tricks
Hi all,
I have one of those craftsman compressors with the 26 gallon tank and have a
couple of questions about what it's doing.
1) the drain valve is very difficult to turn. It's a crappy valve that
is about =BD" in diameter and no ears, and I sometimes have to get the channel
locks out to get it to turn. Is this normal? Is there a way to replace it
with something that works a bit better?
2) I get A LOT of water draining out of it when I drain it. I drain it
every day when I am done with it, and the last couple of days I've noticed the
water coming out has a nice orange color with suspended rust particles in it.
Is this normal or is it something I should be worried about?
3) Should I be leaving the drain valve open or closing it when it is done
draining?
You would think that if it is possible for someone to build an airplane in their
garage, the tool guys could figure out how to put a good drain valve on the
compressor and do some kind of rust prevention in the tank :P
Thanks all.
James
#40400
Just completed prosealing the rudder..
Message 47
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b=CGM50VTDlOJq/CKIA0kWBd+FDe+nRX4rAzLxopzYPjlqtfbAzlgCeb71Afc7bYSjpCVAFQWReRmT5GnQC59YqwIoLR3Mu8WTpOxoesm7OiZ+bS1Ethxxk79LfMPzN41s15CMhKxOkcKnI/KMP+HtxLo8ExSsX/YDidto+1789a4=
;
| Subject: | Re: RV10--List: Capacitance fuel senders |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Benua <danbenua@yahoo.com>
Hi James,
I've installed capacitive senders in my RV-10 tanks.
Van's won't provide a kit for quite some time (next
year?) but you can make your own by adapting the kit
they provide for the other RV models. I chose
capacitive senders to get improved accuracy and
reliability. Float senders have given me problems
with both characteristics, so I wanted to try
something different.
That kit provides two aluminum plates supported by
insulated spacers next to the most inboard and most
outboard interior ribs of the tank. As the tank
fills, the capacitance between the plates and the tank
ribs increases because of the difference in the
dielectric constants of air and fuel. The
installation is not difficult, but requires careful
sealing of the back end of the BNC connector installed
in the inboard tank end rib. (I had a leak there in
one of my tanks!)
I made a few "improvements" in the standard kit aimed
at increasing the maximum (full) capacitance and
increasing the ratio between the full and empty
capacitance values. My hope is to improve accuracy
and noise margin compared to the stock design. The
first change was to reduce the spacing between the
plates and the ribs from 3/8" to 1/4". This increases
both the empty and full capacitance values. The
second change was to move the wire connecting the
plates and the BNC connector away from the tank vent
tube. This reduces the "fixed" capacitance caused by
wrapping the wire around the vent tube. Once you see
the drawings and instructions in Van's kit this
description should become more clear. One caution is
that these modifications have not yet been tested with
fuel in the tank and a capacitive fuel gauge. I have
talked with Rob Hickman and his engine monitor should
be able to accommodate my design changes.
I'll give a little introduction since this is my first
post to this group (I've been lurking since the
beginning!) I'm a repeat offender with an RV-6A that
has been flying for almost six years. (It has float
senders!) I'm also a Technical Counselor with EAA
Chapt 105 in Hillsboro, Oregon (also known as the Home
Wing of Van's Airforce). I'm currently working on the
control surfaces of my slow-build wings. And yes, I
was the first person to order an RV-10 empa-cone!
- Dan Benua
#40001
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