Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:04 AM - Rudder Trim (John Kirkland)
2. 05:29 AM - Re: Rudder Trim (Brian Denk)
3. 06:50 AM - Re: Rudder Trim (Tim Olson)
4. 07:38 AM - Re: Rudder Trim (John Hasbrouck)
5. 09:12 AM - Re: Tank skin to baffle rivet question (John W. Cox)
6. 09:15 AM - Re: Rudder Trim (John W. Cox)
7. 07:46 PM - More Missing QB Fuse Parts (Tim Olson)
8. 08:41 PM - Filling pin holes (DejaVu)
9. 09:16 PM - The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost (Tim Olson)
10. 09:21 PM - Re: Re: RV10: Regarding Whirlwind Composite group buy (Jerry Grimmonpre)
11. 09:34 PM - Re: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost (McGANN, Ron)
12. 10:10 PM - Re: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost (Tim Olson)
13. 10:41 PM - Re: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost (DejaVu)
Message 1
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Kirkland" <jskirkland@webpipe.net>
Hope Randy sees this now that there's a flying airplane in the group. I was
wondering if anyone that has flown one of the RV-10's has thought that it
needed a means of rudder trim? After flying 4.2 hrs XC yesterday it occurred
to me that stepping on the ball during climbout gets old after a while, and
I like the Cessna 182 rudder rim wheel so you can center the ball once climb
is established and you're not so busy. Not sure if anyone would notice this
in a quick demo flight, but by now I'm sure Randy would know!
John Kirkland
#40333
Message 2
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>Hope Randy sees this now that there's a flying airplane in the group. I was
>wondering if anyone that has flown one of the RV-10's has thought that it
>needed a means of rudder trim? After flying 4.2 hrs XC yesterday it
>occurred to me that stepping on the ball during climbout gets old after a
>while, and I like the Cessna 182 rudder rim wheel so you can center the
>ball once climb is established and you're not so busy. Not sure if anyone
>would notice this in a quick demo flight, but by now I'm sure Randy would
>know!
>
>John Kirkland
>#40333
This ain't no 182! First, you're not going to be spending a lot of time
climbing to altitude, and second, rudder pressures are so light that the
average Joe's size elevens with just the slightest hint of pressure will
center the ball. The RV10 rudder is very sensitive (even more than my -8)
so you don't have to stomp on it to get the desired effect. My one flight
in Van's -10 was just terrific and not once did I feel a need for any form
of rudder trim. I guess I'm just used to not having one so the thought
never crossed my mind!
For level flight, yaw trim varies from airplane to airplane. A small rudder
tab of either sheet metal or glued on balsa trailing edge stock from the
hobby shop does the trick very well. My -8 flies ball centered in level
flight with feet off the pedals. The earlier RV's (4's, 6's) often have
small tabs attached from what I've seen over the years. This helps trim out
the plane in climb and cruise, but has to be compensated for in descents.
It just depends on what's important to you and what you have become
accustomed to in the airplanes you typically fly. I'm sure Randy will have
some valid input on this in due time. Lucky guy. ;)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That was just what I was thinking too, Brian! At over 1500'/min,
I don't expect to be climbing very long in the -10. In fact, that
was one of my biggest selling points. I fly with my wife and kids
most of the time. We're always trying to get to a smooth altitude.
Sometime's in the summer it's a hassle trying to get to 9000'.
I don't expect to be waiting too long in the -10.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Brian Denk wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>>
>> Hope Randy sees this now that there's a flying airplane in the group.
>> I was wondering if anyone that has flown one of the RV-10's has
>> thought that it needed a means of rudder trim? After flying 4.2 hrs XC
>> yesterday it occurred to me that stepping on the ball during climbout
>> gets old after a while, and I like the Cessna 182 rudder rim wheel so
>> you can center the ball once climb is established and you're not so
>> busy. Not sure if anyone would notice this in a quick demo flight, but
>> by now I'm sure Randy would know!
>>
>> John Kirkland
>> #40333
>
>
>
> This ain't no 182! First, you're not going to be spending a lot of time
> climbing to altitude, and second, rudder pressures are so light that the
> average Joe's size elevens with just the slightest hint of pressure will
> center the ball. The RV10 rudder is very sensitive (even more than my
> -8) so you don't have to stomp on it to get the desired effect. My one
> flight in Van's -10 was just terrific and not once did I feel a need for
> any form of rudder trim. I guess I'm just used to not having one so the
> thought never crossed my mind!
>
> For level flight, yaw trim varies from airplane to airplane. A small
> rudder tab of either sheet metal or glued on balsa trailing edge stock
> from the hobby shop does the trick very well. My -8 flies ball centered
> in level flight with feet off the pedals. The earlier RV's (4's, 6's)
> often have small tabs attached from what I've seen over the years. This
> helps trim out the plane in climb and cruise, but has to be compensated
> for in descents. It just depends on what's important to you and what
> you have become accustomed to in the airplanes you typically fly. I'm
> sure Randy will have some valid input on this in due time. Lucky guy. ;)
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
If you look at both of Vans -10s they have a fixed wedge screwed to the
trailing edge of the rudder on the left side I think. I assume this was to
provide some trim for right rudder deflection. Anyone else notice
these.....
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 5
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| Subject: | Tank skin to baffle rivet question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
This is a great time to expand the discussion to what causes a line of
smoking rivets seen over time. Also covering the correct treatment of
metal prior to final exterior paint. Stein are you there?
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tank skin to baffle rivet question
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
One question that a friend of mine raised, which I couldn't answer, has
to
do with a slight variation of this. She wondered whether or not the
primer's ability to provide its protection is compromised by the rivet.
That is, when a rivet is seated, does the primer around the rivet head
"break," thus creating a, I would imagine, microscopic weak point where
moisture could invade. This came up in my, seemingly, never ending
discussion about which primer approach to use. The question about epoxy
raising the rivet head, and/or the rivet head "cracking" the primer were
two
questions lacking an answer.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Droopy
Erickson
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tank skin to baffle rivet question
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Droopy Erickson"
--> <Droopy@ericksonjc.com>
Thanks guys. I'll just countersink it like the rest and fill it...
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tank skin to baffle rivet question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
John, Anh's right...it's just so you know which way is up. I just threw
a
rivet in mine like the others, I think. If you dimpled it, rivet it.
If not, it's probably fine to leave it empty.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
do not archive
DejaVu wrote:
> John,
> It's been a while but if I remember correctly, those 3 holes are used
> to orient the baffle itself. You should find the same holes on one
> flange of the baffle and not the other flange.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Droopy Erickson <mailto:Droopy@ericksonjc.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 29, 2005 11:01 PM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Tank skin to baffle rivet question
>
> Hope I didn't miss this somewhere in the archives, but here goes.
On
> the bottom of the fuel tank skins where they rivet to the tank
> baffle, there are 3 holes really close together in about the
center
> of the rivet line. There is no callout for the center of these
three
> rivets and I can't find anywhere in the plans here or later that
> reference this hole. Anyone have a clue what it's for and what to
do
> with it?
>
> John
> #40208 Wings
Message 6
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Pictures show the fixed rudder trim on N410RV with the Lycoming 260hp
are on the opposite side and differing length than that on N220RV with
the Continental 210hp. Just a point for discussion.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Kirkland"
<jskirkland@webpipe.net>
Hope Randy sees this now that there's a flying airplane in the group. I
was
wondering if anyone that has flown one of the RV-10's has thought that
it
needed a means of rudder trim? After flying 4.2 hrs XC yesterday it
occurred
to me that stepping on the ball during climbout gets old after a while,
and
I like the Cessna 182 rudder rim wheel so you can center the ball once
climb
is established and you're not so busy. Not sure if anyone would notice
this
in a quick demo flight, but by now I'm sure Randy would know!
John Kirkland
#40333
Message 7
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| Subject: | More Missing QB Fuse Parts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
If you have a QB fuse, you probably should check the quantities of some
of these parts. Some are not even listed on the inventory sheet.
If you have more to add to this list, send it on and I'll perhaps post
this on the website.
Front Floor panels:
If you didn't get the floor panels, you probably didn't get the hardware
needed either. They will send that with them. I was still short 8
CS4-4's in that hardware pack. Also, there were no K1000-3 nutplates
to put under the front legs of the gear brackets (the ones that bolt
through the floorpans). Hardware bag 1455 includes 2 K1000-3's,
but you need 4 to do the floorpans. You probably should get a
couple extra K1000-3's because if you were short already by 4,
who knows how many more will come up.
I got tipped off from another lister and found these missing too:
For brackets holding fuel/brake lines under front seats:
AN515-6R8 (qty 8)
AN960-6 (qty 8)
AN365-632 (qty 8)
I found you will be real short on the K1000-8 nutplates. They
do include 40 in the hardware bags, but I found at LEAST this many
required:
P. 28-7 (6)
P. 32-5 (2)
P. 33-7 (8)
P. 33-9 (5)
P. 34-7 (4)
P. 35-3 (8)
P. 41-5 (6)
P. 33-10 (24)
That totals 63. How they missed by that far I have NO idea.
AN257-P3 Hinge:
I have a 3' piece, but you need to have about 3' for the 2 rear
seats, and about 2' for the baggage door. I'm going to press
on and cut my 3' piece for the baggage door and get them to send
another 3' piece.
MS21053-L08
None are in hardware list, but 4 are required on Pg 35-3.
AN3-6A
4 are required per side....attaching the control bracket under
front seats. pg 28-14. None are included in the inventory list.
F-6114B and F-6114C: These are blocks that go in the rear baggage
wall...I think for friction prevention where the seat belt cables come
through the rear wall. 2 each are required on P. 33-10, none are in
inventory.
LP4-3's: They send a quantity of I think 275, but I am now running
out. I can see that I used 196 on the rear seat area, + 39 in the
baggage area for misc. panels, + 14 in the rear passenger floors.
Then you get to P. 35-3 to put the bottom on the bracket that holds
up the rear seat and it requires 50 right there, pushing you over the
top.
You will need to buy a Baggage door lock ES A-510-2K with Mag Switch
or you won't have a way to latch your baggage door.
On the front section, right above and behind the NACA vents, there's a
"wire cover" that gets screwed down. There are 3 spots for nutplates
pre-drilled in the longeron F1040-L & -R. They hold down the wire
cover F-1042G-L&R on page 35-7. My longerons are pre-drilled. I
couldn't find the spot in the plans where these get drilled for
nutplates, or if it's done at the factory, but, I also couldn't find out
where the nutplates are installed, so I have no idea what type are
supposed to go there. I'll have to call in to verify this.
Hopefully this list will help you people with QB Fuselage's not get
stuck at various points along the process. I am very frustrated that
every time I went into a section, I ran into a barrier of a missing part
or something that had a dependency. Then I'd start another section and
go until I ran into another missing part. I would not be nearly as
bothered by this if at least once in this process I heard of a builder
that actually got contacted by Van's, and told "Hey, we figured out that
your kit was probably missing these parts....if you check for these,
we'll send you out some if they're missing". But, it looks like they
just fix the quanties in the kits....and they let the previous buyers
slide until they figure it out and complain. That bugs me a bit. I got
QB fuse # 40, or is it #44....but I suppose that's still early enough on
to be finding mistakes.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Message 8
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| Subject: | Filling pin holes |
What's everyone doing/using to fill the pin holes? I use epoxy with mircro baloons.
I don't mind sanding but this stuff is hard as a rock after it cures and
a bear to sand. Of course I have filler over 75% of the working surface because
I see pin holes everywhere. Can smaller holes be ignored because the primer
will fill them later? I'm thinking there might be an easier way or softer filler
available to speed up the sanding.
Anh
#141
Message 9
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| Subject: | The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I found 2 "impossible" rivets, and the solution to one of them. QB
fuse, by the way.
#1 is on the baggage door latch bracket that goes on the fuselage.
There are 2 nutplates to attach. 2 of those 4 rivets are not
accessible by squeezer or bucking bar. I did, however,
find that I have a very small flat squeezer set and I could drill
a hole and enlarge with a unibit in the flange underneath the
rivet, and get the squeezer through. I just don't know how else
you'd do it. Here's a couple of photos.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260017.html
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260016.html
The other impossible rivets are on the very forward hole of the
rear seat panels, on the sidewalls. There are holes that are completely
inaccessible by rivet gun, or pop rivet tool. This photo shows the
location, a couple inches NorthEast of the rivet set.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505250013.html
Short of drilling a hole through my seat bracket, which is NOT
worth it, I can't find a way to fill that hole. The ones on the
other side of the floor panel by the tunnel could be popped in
from the tunnel side I suppose, but you'd have an ugle rivet
sticking into the seating area. For now I'm just going to leave
them empty. If I got desperate, I'd GLUE in a rivet for looks...
then everyone would think I figured out the secret. :)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV10: Regarding Whirlwind Composite group buy |
Hey Jim ...
That's way over my head ... what does that mean in layman's terms?
Thanks for the reply,
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: CustomACProp@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 10:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10: Regarding Whirlwind Composite group buy
Hi Jerry,
I'm afraid this may be a little brutal.
IMHO, I would NOT put ANY composite propeller on a 4 cylinder 4 cycle engine
unless the propeller manufacturer has done a valid vibration survey.
From what I have read from the people flying the Whirlwind propeller, I would
guess that this hasn't been done.
IMHO, if a 3 blade propeller is used in place of a 2 blade propelller and there
is not a very noticable difference in vibration, then there is something VERY
BAD happening with that 3 blade propeller.
A 2 blade propeller has a 2nd order harmonic that does not occur with a 3 blade
propeller. The 3 blade vibration level is VERY noticably LOWER than with the
2 blade propeller.
And you don't need "no stinking instruments" to tell the difference. :-)
"Stinking instrumentation" is required to determine what is happening along the
blade.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 05/29/2005 12:02:16 AM Pacific Daylight Time, rv10-list-digest@matronics.com
writes:
Time: 09:38:39 AM PST US
From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 MT Propeller group buy
Hi Jim ...
Would you ever consider sponsoring a group buy effort for Whirlwind composite
three
blade for the Lyc 320/360 RV builders?
Thanks ...
Jerry Grimmonpre
RV7A shop building
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 11
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| Subject: | The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Hi Tim,
Dumb question I guess, but why would a pop rivet be unacceptable in the
'impossible holes' in the baggage door attach bracket?? I'm happy to be
re-educated here but I thought the main reason for riveting the nutplates
was to centre the plate and prevent rotation during bolt
installation/removal (since the nut plate acts like a 'nut' once the bolt is
tightened). Does the nutplate really need the strength of two solid rivets?
cheers,
Ron
#187 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I found 2 "impossible" rivets, and the solution to one of them. QB
fuse, by the way.
#1 is on the baggage door latch bracket that goes on the fuselage.
There are 2 nutplates to attach. 2 of those 4 rivets are not
accessible by squeezer or bucking bar. I did, however,
find that I have a very small flat squeezer set and I could drill
a hole and enlarge with a unibit in the flange underneath the
rivet, and get the squeezer through. I just don't know how else
you'd do it. Here's a couple of photos.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260017.html
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260016.html
The other impossible rivets are on the very forward hole of the
rear seat panels, on the sidewalls. There are holes that are completely
inaccessible by rivet gun, or pop rivet tool. This photo shows the
location, a couple inches NorthEast of the rivet set.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505250013.html
Short of drilling a hole through my seat bracket, which is NOT
worth it, I can't find a way to fill that hole. The ones on the
other side of the floor panel by the tunnel could be popped in
from the tunnel side I suppose, but you'd have an ugle rivet
sticking into the seating area. For now I'm just going to leave
them empty. If I got desperate, I'd GLUE in a rivet for looks...
then everyone would think I figured out the secret. :)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ron,
It's not that it's a strength issue. The problem is, there are no
provided countersunk pop rivets in 3/32" to fit the nutplate. It
would be acceptable if you had them. The closest thing we have
is the MK319-BS rivet, that is 7/64", so you'd have to drill out
the nutplate to 7/64". That actually MAY work, but the nutplate
wouldn't be as strong...not that it needs extreme strength though.
It also wouldn't be as pretty. I don't know if everyone has one
of those small flat squeezer sets, but it worked perfectly for the
task...just took some thinking as to how to get to that solution.
The squeezer set I used is only as wide as the squeezer shaft itself.
it's come in handy a few times on the kit.
You're right though, on nutplates, they don't need a heck of a lot
of rivet to hold them. It's just an anti-rotation thing.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
>
> Hi Tim,
>
> Dumb question I guess, but why would a pop rivet be unacceptable in the
> 'impossible holes' in the baggage door attach bracket?? I'm happy to be
> re-educated here but I thought the main reason for riveting the nutplates
> was to centre the plate and prevent rotation during bolt
> installation/removal (since the nut plate acts like a 'nut' once the bolt is
> tightened). Does the nutplate really need the strength of two solid rivets?
>
>
> cheers,
> Ron
> #187 Wings
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, 31 May 2005 1:46 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I found 2 "impossible" rivets, and the solution to one of them. QB
> fuse, by the way.
>
> #1 is on the baggage door latch bracket that goes on the fuselage.
> There are 2 nutplates to attach. 2 of those 4 rivets are not
> accessible by squeezer or bucking bar. I did, however,
> find that I have a very small flat squeezer set and I could drill
> a hole and enlarge with a unibit in the flange underneath the
> rivet, and get the squeezer through. I just don't know how else
> you'd do it. Here's a couple of photos.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260017.html
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260016.html
>
>
> The other impossible rivets are on the very forward hole of the
> rear seat panels, on the sidewalls. There are holes that are completely
> inaccessible by rivet gun, or pop rivet tool. This photo shows the
> location, a couple inches NorthEast of the rivet set.
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505250013.html
> Short of drilling a hole through my seat bracket, which is NOT
> worth it, I can't find a way to fill that hole. The ones on the
> other side of the floor panel by the tunnel could be popped in
> from the tunnel side I suppose, but you'd have an ugle rivet
> sticking into the seating area. For now I'm just going to leave
> them empty. If I got desperate, I'd GLUE in a rivet for looks...
> then everyone would think I figured out the secret. :)
>
> Tim
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu" <wvu@mail.ameritel.net>
I drilled the holes like Tim did, one under each "ear" of the nutplate, and
back-riveted the nutplate on.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Ron,
>
> It's not that it's a strength issue. The problem is, there are no
> provided countersunk pop rivets in 3/32" to fit the nutplate. It
> would be acceptable if you had them. The closest thing we have
> is the MK319-BS rivet, that is 7/64", so you'd have to drill out
> the nutplate to 7/64". That actually MAY work, but the nutplate
> wouldn't be as strong...not that it needs extreme strength though.
> It also wouldn't be as pretty. I don't know if everyone has one
> of those small flat squeezer sets, but it worked perfectly for the
> task...just took some thinking as to how to get to that solution.
> The squeezer set I used is only as wide as the squeezer shaft itself.
> it's come in handy a few times on the kit.
>
> You're right though, on nutplates, they don't need a heck of a lot
> of rivet to hold them. It's just an anti-rotation thing.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
>
> McGANN, Ron wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "McGANN, Ron"
<ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
> >
> > Hi Tim,
> >
> > Dumb question I guess, but why would a pop rivet be unacceptable in the
> > 'impossible holes' in the baggage door attach bracket?? I'm happy to be
> > re-educated here but I thought the main reason for riveting the
nutplates
> > was to centre the plate and prevent rotation during bolt
> > installation/removal (since the nut plate acts like a 'nut' once the
bolt is
> > tightened). Does the nutplate really need the strength of two solid
rivets?
> >
> >
> > cheers,
> > Ron
> > #187 Wings
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> > Sent: Tuesday, 31 May 2005 1:46 PM
> > To: RV10
> > Subject: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
> >
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > I found 2 "impossible" rivets, and the solution to one of them. QB
> > fuse, by the way.
> >
> > #1 is on the baggage door latch bracket that goes on the fuselage.
> > There are 2 nutplates to attach. 2 of those 4 rivets are not
> > accessible by squeezer or bucking bar. I did, however,
> > find that I have a very small flat squeezer set and I could drill
> > a hole and enlarge with a unibit in the flange underneath the
> > rivet, and get the squeezer through. I just don't know how else
> > you'd do it. Here's a couple of photos.
> >
> > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260017.html
> > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260016.html
> >
> >
> > The other impossible rivets are on the very forward hole of the
> > rear seat panels, on the sidewalls. There are holes that are completely
> > inaccessible by rivet gun, or pop rivet tool. This photo shows the
> > location, a couple inches NorthEast of the rivet set.
> > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505250013.html
> > Short of drilling a hole through my seat bracket, which is NOT
> > worth it, I can't find a way to fill that hole. The ones on the
> > other side of the floor panel by the tunnel could be popped in
> > from the tunnel side I suppose, but you'd have an ugle rivet
> > sticking into the seating area. For now I'm just going to leave
> > them empty. If I got desperate, I'd GLUE in a rivet for looks...
> > then everyone would think I figured out the secret. :)
> >
> > Tim
> >
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
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