Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:28 AM - Re: Dent in HS skin (matronix.rv10@4sythe.com)
2. 06:07 AM - Re: Misc Fuel system parts (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
3. 06:08 AM - Re: Misc Fuel system parts (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
4. 06:17 AM - Re: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
5. 06:25 AM - Re: Misc Fuel system parts (Tim Olson)
6. 06:38 AM - Wires and Things for the Tail (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
7. 06:50 AM - Re: Misc Fuel system parts (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
8. 06:50 AM - Rudder Pedal Bolt issue? (Tim Olson)
9. 06:53 AM - Re: Misc Fuel system parts (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
10. 07:08 AM - Re: Wires and Things for the Tail (Tim Olson)
11. 07:11 AM - Re: Wires and Things for the Tail (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
12. 07:14 AM - Re: Misc Fuel system parts (Tim Olson)
13. 07:21 AM - Conduit material (Kent Forsythe)
14. 07:30 AM - Re: Misc Fuel system parts (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
15. 07:44 AM - Re: Misc Fuel system parts (Randy DeBauw)
16. 07:50 AM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge (Randy DeBauw)
17. 07:50 AM - Re: Wires and Things for the Tail (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
18. 07:57 AM - Re: Dent in HS skin (Randy DeBauw)
19. 08:02 AM - Re: Conduit material (Tim Olson)
20. 08:07 AM - Re: Misc Fuel system parts (Tim Olson)
21. 08:08 AM - Re: Misc Fuel system parts (John W. Cox)
22. 08:24 AM - Re: Rudder Pedal Bolt issue? (John W. Cox)
23. 09:35 AM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge (Scott Schmidt)
24. 09:53 AM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge (Jim Combs)
25. 09:54 AM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge (James Ochs)
26. 10:16 AM - Re: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost ()
27. 11:00 AM - Re: Rudder Trailing Edge (Shawn Moon)
28. 11:29 AM - Re: Rudder Pedal Bolt issue? (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
29. 11:37 AM - Re: Rudder Pedal Bolt issue? (Randy DeBauw)
30. 12:42 PM - Re: Rudder Trim (bruce snyder)
31. 12:46 PM - Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder ()
32. 12:58 PM - Re: Rudder Trim (Randy DeBauw)
33. 01:02 PM - Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder (Randy DeBauw)
34. 01:22 PM - Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder (James Ochs)
35. 01:38 PM - Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder (Bobby J. Hughes)
36. 02:32 PM - Flaps on Take-Off (Jim Combs)
37. 02:56 PM - Re: Flaps on Take-Off (Randy DeBauw)
38. 05:11 PM - Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder (John Jessen)
39. 05:26 PM - Re: Rudder Trim (John Jessen)
40. 05:53 PM - Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder (Sean Stephens)
41. 07:51 PM - Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder (Tim Olson)
42. 07:54 PM - Re: Rudder Trim (Tim Olson)
43. 08:16 PM - Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder (Mark)
44. 08:40 PM - Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder (Tim Olson)
45. 08:40 PM - Re: Dent in HS skin (Bill and Tami Britton)
46. 08:59 PM - Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder (JOHN STARN)
47. 09:06 PM - Re: Dent in HS skin (bob.kaufmann)
48. 09:06 PM - Re: Performance Comparison (Tim Olson)
49. 09:27 PM - Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder (Mark)
50. 09:29 PM - Re: Dent in HS skin (McGANN, Ron)
51. 10:24 PM - Small hammer, Dent in HS skin, (JOHN STARN)
Message 1
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I would apply some pressure from the inside using a rounded block of
wood (that matches the contour of the skin, then use the rivet gun on
about 20lbs of pressure with a mushroom set on the outside. I would go
easy on the trigger. I've used this method to take the bend out of
ribs that got caught by the scotchbrite wheel and have a flange bent out
of shape. For those, it works like a champ and seems like it would be
fine on a skin also as long as you apply plenty of pressure to the
inside and don't over "pound" it.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Riveting Elevator(s)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com@matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an accident with the
bucking bar and accidentally put a dent in the leading edge of the HS
skin. I'll try to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact me if
you can offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you the picture. Meanwhile, any
thoughts or suggestions or do I just let the paint shop work this one
out???
TIA
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
Message 2
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| Subject: | Misc Fuel system parts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
I just ordered these last week from Van's. You don't need the kit, just
the the pump and the filter separately. I am going to buy my Flo-Scan
with the Dynon EMS. I also bought a push pull cable for my parking
brake valve.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Wondering....
I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit,
and either is the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount Kit)
or the ES Airflow Filter.
Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
anyone know the answer?
In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything
else that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
* Fuel System
* Brake Pedals and system
* Rudder controls
* Control system
....anything that I would probably want at that point that just
might not be with the kit.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 3
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| Subject: | Misc Fuel system parts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Tim,
The Airflow pump and filter can just be ordered from Van's, everything
needed to mount them is in the fuselage kit. The Flo-Scan comes with
whatever engine monitor you decide to go with. I was able to
"pre-order" mine, similar to the AP servos. Also, turns out that
there's actually several different models of the fuel flow sensor and
they're somewhat interchangeable. I ordered mine from Advanced Flight
Systems and they actually provide a unit made by JPI. I think cost was
about $200 and it's deductible from the engine monitor price when that's
ordered.
Can't help much more, we're at almost exactly the same point but I
skipped ahead and did the brake and fuel system plumbing a few days ago.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Wondering....
I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit,
and either is the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount Kit)
or the ES Airflow Filter.
Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
anyone know the answer?
In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything
else that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
* Fuel System
* Brake Pedals and system
* Rudder controls
* Control system
....anything that I would probably want at that point that just
might not be with the kit.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 4
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| Subject: | The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
I have a Canon Digital Rebel (6.3 Megapixel). These were taken in the lowest resolution
which is 1536 x 1024. I then open them with Microsoft Photo Editor
and do a Save As and set the JPEG Quality Factor to 25 which creates the smaller
size file.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michle Delsol
Subject: RE: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
This is off topic - but I am impressed with the quality of the pictures
given their small size except, for no 2 which apparently suffered a minor
mishap. What camera did you use or better still - did you process the photos
in any way to get them so small yet so crisp and clear? I use the 1.8 mega
pixel photo capability on my camcorder - pictures weigh 500+ kb and do not
exhibit the crispness of yours.
Thanks,
Michle
RV8 - Fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 7:30 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
>
> Tim, you and I seem to be at the same sport. I ended up doing
> the same thing for the nutplates on the baggage door jam. I drilled the
> rivet hole to come out the back and then enlarged this hole to 1/4" and
> back riveted it using a hammer and punch on a backing plate.
> As for the most forward rivet on the rear side seat pans, I also
> left this rivet out. I called Van's about it and explain to Bruce there
> is no way to get this rivet because you can't get to either side of the
> rivet with the gun. He went on to say you can use a pop rivet at a 15
> degree angle, but I said it would be more like a 70 degree angle and it
> wouldn't work. If you look at the drawing that show the rear floor pan,
> you will notice they don't even show this hole exists, so I wonder if
> this was added later not thinking about how it would be set.
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250 Floor Pans all rivet on.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2005 11:16 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I found 2 "impossible" rivets, and the solution to one of them. QB
> fuse, by the way.
>
> #1 is on the baggage door latch bracket that goes on the fuselage.
> There are 2 nutplates to attach. 2 of those 4 rivets are not
> accessible by squeezer or bucking bar. I did, however,
> find that I have a very small flat squeezer set and I could drill
> a hole and enlarge with a unibit in the flange underneath the
> rivet, and get the squeezer through. I just don't know how else
> you'd do it. Here's a couple of photos.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260017.html
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260016.html
>
>
> The other impossible rivets are on the very forward hole of the
> rear seat panels, on the sidewalls. There are holes that are completely
> inaccessible by rivet gun, or pop rivet tool. This photo shows the
> location, a couple inches NorthEast of the rivet set.
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505250013.html
> Short of drilling a hole through my seat bracket, which is NOT
> worth it, I can't find a way to fill that hole. The ones on the
> other side of the floor panel by the tunnel could be popped in
> from the tunnel side I suppose, but you'd have an ugle rivet
> sticking into the seating area. For now I'm just going to leave
> them empty. If I got desperate, I'd GLUE in a rivet for looks...
> then everyone would think I figured out the secret. :)
>
> Tim
>
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Misc Fuel system parts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Any specific fittings and connectors that need to be purchased at the
same time to install any of this stuff?
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
>
> I just ordered these last week from Van's. You don't need the kit, just
> the the pump and the filter separately. I am going to buy my Flo-Scan
> with the Dynon EMS. I also bought a push pull cable for my parking
> brake valve.
>
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> CDNI Principal Engineer
> Sprint PCS
> 16020 West 113th Street
> Lenexa, KS 66219
> Mailstop KSLNXK0101
> (913) 859-1414 (Office)
> (913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
> (913) 859-1234 (Fax)
> Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 7:51 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Wondering....
> I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit,
> and either is the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount Kit)
> or the ES Airflow Filter.
>
> Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
> bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
> is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
> anyone know the answer?
>
> In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
> productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything
> else that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
> * Fuel System
> * Brake Pedals and system
> * Rudder controls
> * Control system
> ....anything that I would probably want at that point that just
> might not be with the kit.
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Wires and Things for the Tail |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
I'm starting to think about what needs to be routed to the tail
before I close up the right baggage side wall. I've already closed up
the baggage floor pans which have 3/4" conduit running under them up
each side. I figure this will be used for the #2 Starter Cable. I hope
to leave the other one open for future and run the rest under the right
baggage side panel.
Here is a list of what I can think of right now. If I've missed
anything, please let me know.
1. #2 Wire from Master Solenoid to Firewall Mounted Starter
Solenoid.
2. #18 Master Solenoid wire to engage Solenoid.
3. Shielded Power wire for Strobe Power Supply mounted in Tail.
4. Shielded Strobe wire for Left Wing.
5. Shielded Strobe wire for Right Wing.
6. Marker Beacon Antenna wire. Mounted between battery mount ribs.
7. Tail Nav Light power wire.
8. Static Line Tubing.
9. RJ-11 wire for Remote Panel of the ELT.
10. 5 - #22 or #24 wires for Elevator Trim Servo.
11. Elevator Autopilot wires.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
Message 7
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| Subject: | Misc Fuel system parts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Tim,
They all install with -6D flared fittings. I had ordered a few extra
AN818-6D and AN819-6D when I swapped to an Andair valve so I'm not sure
if the kit comes with exactly the right number or not. I would take the
advice of a few others and install the fuel lines from the valve to the
tanks with an AN815-6D union fitting below the seats. This is much
easier than getting the long piece of 3/8" tubing bent just right and
through the maze.
Electrically the AFP pump is a two wire connection with one being
ground. Pump only has a few inches of wire so you'll need to either
install a connector or splices. The fuel flow sensor that I've got has a
shielded three wire connection and came with insulated spade lugs
installed on about a 12" pigtail.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Any specific fittings and connectors that need to be purchased at the
same time to install any of this stuff?
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
<Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
>
> I just ordered these last week from Van's. You don't need the kit,
just
> the the pump and the filter separately. I am going to buy my Flo-Scan
> with the Dynon EMS. I also bought a push pull cable for my parking
> brake valve.
>
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> CDNI Principal Engineer
> Sprint PCS
> 16020 West 113th Street
> Lenexa, KS 66219
> Mailstop KSLNXK0101
> (913) 859-1414 (Office)
> (913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
> (913) 859-1234 (Fax)
> Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 7:51 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Wondering....
> I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit,
> and either is the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount
Kit)
> or the ES Airflow Filter.
>
> Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
> bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
> is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
> anyone know the answer?
>
> In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
> productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything
> else that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
> * Fuel System
> * Brake Pedals and system
> * Rudder controls
> * Control system
> ....anything that I would probably want at that point that just
> might not be with the kit.
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Bolt issue? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy,
I heard there was an inspection issue with some bolts in relation to the
rudder pedals and you corrected it. Can you elaborate? I'll be
starting that area shortly and may as well do it right the first time.
Also, if you have time to do a step-by-step write-up of the
registration / inspection / certification process with any listed
forms and links you think people should have, I'll be happy to post
that on my page so as questions come up, we can point people there
and save answering it 400 more times. :)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 9
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| Subject: | Misc Fuel system parts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
I'm not sure, but I have B & B Aircraft just 1/2 mile from my house, so
I will be able to tell you once I see what comes from Van's.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Any specific fittings and connectors that need to be purchased at the
same time to install any of this stuff?
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
<Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
>
> I just ordered these last week from Van's. You don't need the kit,
just
> the the pump and the filter separately. I am going to buy my Flo-Scan
> with the Dynon EMS. I also bought a push pull cable for my parking
> brake valve.
>
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> CDNI Principal Engineer
> Sprint PCS
> 16020 West 113th Street
> Lenexa, KS 66219
> Mailstop KSLNXK0101
> (913) 859-1414 (Office)
> (913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
> (913) 859-1234 (Fax)
> Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 7:51 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Wondering....
> I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit,
> and either is the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount
Kit)
> or the ES Airflow Filter.
>
> Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
> bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
> is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
> anyone know the answer?
>
> In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
> productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything
> else that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
> * Fuel System
> * Brake Pedals and system
> * Rudder controls
> * Control system
> ....anything that I would probably want at that point that just
> might not be with the kit.
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wires and Things for the Tail |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ray,
I can add a couple of possibilities to that list:
12. AHRS wires
13. Transponder Antenna Wire (possibly)
14. Baggage area lighting power
15. One I hope to some day add.....a vent and blower motor
for on-the-ground cabin airflow. (need power wires)
I'm also planning to run both a #2 power and #2 ground wire from the
tail to the firewall. I want to have a single-point ground on the
firewall for all items, and that run directly to the battery.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
>
> I'm starting to think about what needs to be routed to the tail
> before I close up the right baggage side wall. I've already closed up
> the baggage floor pans which have 3/4" conduit running under them up
> each side. I figure this will be used for the #2 Starter Cable. I hope
> to leave the other one open for future and run the rest under the right
> baggage side panel.
> Here is a list of what I can think of right now. If I've missed
> anything, please let me know.
>
> 1. #2 Wire from Master Solenoid to Firewall Mounted Starter
> Solenoid.
> 2. #18 Master Solenoid wire to engage Solenoid.
> 3. Shielded Power wire for Strobe Power Supply mounted in Tail.
> 4. Shielded Strobe wire for Left Wing.
> 5. Shielded Strobe wire for Right Wing.
> 6. Marker Beacon Antenna wire. Mounted between battery mount ribs.
> 7. Tail Nav Light power wire.
> 8. Static Line Tubing.
> 9. RJ-11 wire for Remote Panel of the ELT.
> 10. 5 - #22 or #24 wires for Elevator Trim Servo.
> 11. Elevator Autopilot wires.
>
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Wires and Things for the Tail |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Ray,
A little more info and a couple comments:
- The TruTrak pitch servo calls for (2) #20 and (7) #22 wires.
- You may need an always hot battery bus wire (#20).
- I don't believe that the power to the strobe power supply needs to be
shielded. My Whelen unit just has unshielded wire for that connection.
The actual high voltage strobe lines are however shielded.
- I've got my MB antenna in a wingtip, but the transponder antenna is
near the battery mount ribs.
- Bob N on the AeroElectric list recommends running the battery ground
forward to a single point grounding block on the firewall. It connects
to a brass bolt that feeds through to the engine block ground strap.
FWIW, I decided to stick a couple 3/4" conduit runs behind the right
baggage wall as cheap and lightweight insurance.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Subject: RV10-List: Wires and Things for the Tail
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
<Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
I'm starting to think about what needs to be routed to the tail
before I close up the right baggage side wall. I've already closed up
the baggage floor pans which have 3/4" conduit running under them up
each side. I figure this will be used for the #2 Starter Cable. I hope
to leave the other one open for future and run the rest under the right
baggage side panel.
Here is a list of what I can think of right now. If I've missed
anything, please let me know.
1. #2 Wire from Master Solenoid to Firewall Mounted Starter
Solenoid.
2. #18 Master Solenoid wire to engage Solenoid.
3. Shielded Power wire for Strobe Power Supply mounted in Tail.
4. Shielded Strobe wire for Left Wing.
5. Shielded Strobe wire for Right Wing.
6. Marker Beacon Antenna wire. Mounted between battery mount ribs.
7. Tail Nav Light power wire.
8. Static Line Tubing.
9. RJ-11 wire for Remote Panel of the ELT.
10. 5 - #22 or #24 wires for Elevator Trim Servo.
11. Elevator Autopilot wires.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Re: Misc Fuel system parts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Van's doesn't seem to offer the AN815-6D union.....looks like
this will be another slow adventure into the alternate parts
source world. Too bad I just can't have a local source for
this stuff.
I have been picking up spares of many bolts, rivets, and misc.
items as I've ordered, but it always seems that I'm short the
one item I need. I can see that if I even look at the
andair valve, I'm going to go through the same thing again.
Oh well...
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Tim,
>
> They all install with -6D flared fittings. I had ordered a few extra
> AN818-6D and AN819-6D when I swapped to an Andair valve so I'm not sure
> if the kit comes with exactly the right number or not. I would take the
> advice of a few others and install the fuel lines from the valve to the
> tanks with an AN815-6D union fitting below the seats. This is much
> easier than getting the long piece of 3/8" tubing bent just right and
> through the maze.
>
> Electrically the AFP pump is a two wire connection with one being
> ground. Pump only has a few inches of wire so you'll need to either
> install a connector or splices. The fuel flow sensor that I've got has a
> shielded three wire connection and came with insulated spade lugs
> installed on about a 12" pigtail.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 8:22 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Any specific fittings and connectors that need to be purchased at the
> same time to install any of this stuff?
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
>
> <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
>
>>I just ordered these last week from Van's. You don't need the kit,
>
> just
>
>>the the pump and the filter separately. I am going to buy my Flo-Scan
>>with the Dynon EMS. I also bought a push pull cable for my parking
>>brake valve.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Thank You
>>Ray Doerr
>>CDNI Principal Engineer
>>Sprint PCS
>>16020 West 113th Street
>>Lenexa, KS 66219
>>Mailstop KSLNXK0101
>>(913) 859-1414 (Office)
>>(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
>>(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
>>Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 7:51 PM
>>To: RV10
>>Subject: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>Wondering....
>>I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit,
>>and either is the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount
>
> Kit)
>
>>or the ES Airflow Filter.
>>
>>Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
>>bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
>>is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
>>anyone know the answer?
>>
>>In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
>>productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything
>>else that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
>>* Fuel System
>>* Brake Pedals and system
>>* Rudder controls
>>* Control system
>>....anything that I would probably want at that point that just
>>might not be with the kit.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Conduit material |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
For those of you that have mentioned running conduit for wires....what material
are you using for the conduit? Are you drilling dedicated holes for the conduit
or are you using existing holes and just securing the conduit in place?
I'm not to this step yet but I know I'll have to do the same when I get there.
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevator(s)
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Misc Fuel system parts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Tim,
Aircraft Spruce has been pretty responsive on small orders and no
surcharge for handling. I ordered a pair of the AN815-6D unions from
them recently with nothing else on the order. Cost of the unions was
$2.35 each and shipping was $1.58 for USPS First Class Mail. They
showed up in a padded envelope a few days later.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Van's doesn't seem to offer the AN815-6D union.....looks like
this will be another slow adventure into the alternate parts
source world. Too bad I just can't have a local source for
this stuff.
I have been picking up spares of many bolts, rivets, and misc.
items as I've ordered, but it always seems that I'm short the
one item I need. I can see that if I even look at the
andair valve, I'm going to go through the same thing again.
Oh well...
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Tim,
>
> They all install with -6D flared fittings. I had ordered a few extra
> AN818-6D and AN819-6D when I swapped to an Andair valve so I'm not
sure
> if the kit comes with exactly the right number or not. I would take
the
> advice of a few others and install the fuel lines from the valve to
the
> tanks with an AN815-6D union fitting below the seats. This is much
> easier than getting the long piece of 3/8" tubing bent just right and
> through the maze.
>
> Electrically the AFP pump is a two wire connection with one being
> ground. Pump only has a few inches of wire so you'll need to either
> install a connector or splices. The fuel flow sensor that I've got has
a
> shielded three wire connection and came with insulated spade lugs
> installed on about a 12" pigtail.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 8:22 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Any specific fittings and connectors that need to be purchased at the
> same time to install any of this stuff?
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
>
> <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
>
>>I just ordered these last week from Van's. You don't need the kit,
>
> just
>
>>the the pump and the filter separately. I am going to buy my Flo-Scan
>>with the Dynon EMS. I also bought a push pull cable for my parking
>>brake valve.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Thank You
>>Ray Doerr
>>CDNI Principal Engineer
>>Sprint PCS
>>16020 West 113th Street
>>Lenexa, KS 66219
>>Mailstop KSLNXK0101
>>(913) 859-1414 (Office)
>>(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
>>(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
>>Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 7:51 PM
>>To: RV10
>>Subject: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>Wondering....
>>I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit,
>>and either is the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount
>
> Kit)
>
>>or the ES Airflow Filter.
>>
>>Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
>>bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
>>is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
>>anyone know the answer?
>>
>>In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
>>productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything
>>else that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
>>* Fuel System
>>* Brake Pedals and system
>>* Rudder controls
>>* Control system
>>....anything that I would probably want at that point that just
>>might not be with the kit.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Misc Fuel system parts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Yes she is and the first flight is going to be to Bend to see John and
his wife. He deserves it. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Great tip, Randy. I'll order the SCAT and have it ready in case I can't
get the 2" to fit either. Also, glad to hear you're up to
18 successful hours! Can't wait to hear it's flown off. Is your wife
going to be your first passenger?
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> Fuel pump is from Van's. You can't get it cheaper. The transducer is
> from your engine monitor company. I also bought about 2 ft of 1 1/2
> scat tube and reduced the tube going to the rear heater. It is
> impossible to squeeze down the 2" stuff to fit on top of the fuel
selector and I could
> squeeze the 1 1/2" stuff. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 5:51 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Wondering....
> I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit, and either
> is the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount Kit) or the ES
> Airflow Filter.
>
> Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
> bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
> is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
> anyone know the answer?
>
> In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
> productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything else
> that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
> * Fuel System
> * Brake Pedals and system
> * Rudder controls
> * Control system
> ....anything that I would probably want at that point that just might
> not be with the kit.
>
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Rudder Trailing Edge |
You can turn it over and put small shim under the ends so you are
pushing the bow down to the rivet plate on the table. Then lightly work
the rivets in that area. I had the same problem but it came out perfect
the a little pro-active riveting. Don't be afraid to rivet a little on
one side then flip it over on the other, each time only slightly driving
the rivet. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trailing Edge
For all those who used the proseal method for the trailing edge, what do
you do if you start to develop a slight bow? I started developing a bow
in the bottom 12 inches of the rudder, but I think the repeated warnings
in the plans has me spooked a little so I don't think it is all that
bad. Before I go on setting the rest of the rivets (I only have about
half of them half way set) I would like to know what to do to correct
it. Thanks for your thoughts.
--Shawn
40366
________________________________
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
<http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Wires and Things for the Tail |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
Thanks for your replies. I have added the Hot Battery for stuff
like clocks etc and the extra #2 for single point ground.
As for Transponder antenna, I had mine in the tail of my RV-9A,
but that length of cable is not recommended because of the high loss of
the signal at 1090 Mhz. The Garmin install manual states "The maximum
coaxial cable attenuation at 1090Mhz must not exceed 1.5 dB. It states
the maximum length for RG400 is 8.8 feet. It is even less for RG58AU.
So I would recommend against mounting the Transponder antenna in the
tail. I was planning to mount mine in the tunnel just ahead of the fuel
vale. I will decide for sure once I have the brake and fuel lines in
place.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wires and Things for the Tail
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ray,
I can add a couple of possibilities to that list:
12. AHRS wires
13. Transponder Antenna Wire (possibly)
14. Baggage area lighting power
15. One I hope to some day add.....a vent and blower motor
for on-the-ground cabin airflow. (need power wires)
I'm also planning to run both a #2 power and #2 ground wire from the
tail to the firewall. I want to have a single-point ground on the
firewall for all items, and that run directly to the battery.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
<Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
>
> I'm starting to think about what needs to be routed to the tail
> before I close up the right baggage side wall. I've already closed up
> the baggage floor pans which have 3/4" conduit running under them up
> each side. I figure this will be used for the #2 Starter Cable. I
hope
> to leave the other one open for future and run the rest under the
right
> baggage side panel.
> Here is a list of what I can think of right now. If I've missed
> anything, please let me know.
>
> 1. #2 Wire from Master Solenoid to Firewall Mounted Starter
> Solenoid.
> 2. #18 Master Solenoid wire to engage Solenoid.
> 3. Shielded Power wire for Strobe Power Supply mounted in Tail.
> 4. Shielded Strobe wire for Left Wing.
> 5. Shielded Strobe wire for Right Wing.
> 6. Marker Beacon Antenna wire. Mounted between battery mount ribs.
> 7. Tail Nav Light power wire.
> 8. Static Line Tubing.
> 9. RJ-11 wire for Remote Panel of the ELT.
> 10. 5 - #22 or #24 wires for Elevator Trim Servo.
> 11. Elevator Autopilot wires.
>
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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|
That's one. You will have more. You can get something like a piece of
wood shaped like the nose area. Use it as a backer and try to flatten it
out. The problem is that the alum is stretched now and you will use
some bondo or JB weld to flatten and fill it. This is normal to have
happen. Don't worry about it and move on. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an accident with the
bucking bar and accidentally put a dent in the leading edge of the HS
skin. I'll try to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact me if
you can offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you the picture. Meanwhile, any
thoughts or suggestions or do I just let the paint shop work this one
out???
TIA
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Conduit material |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I just got done with all this. Here's what I used:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050517/index.html
Also in later phots you'll see I ran a couple of el-cheapo
plastic tubing runs too, for wires I might want to keep separate.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Kent Forsythe wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe
> <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
>
> For those of you that have mentioned running conduit for
> wires....what material are you using for the conduit? Are you
> drilling dedicated holes for the conduit or are you using existing
> holes and just securing the conduit in place? I'm not to this step
> yet but I know I'll have to do the same when I get there.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kent Forsythe 40338 Elevator(s)
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Misc Fuel system parts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
He sure does. Make sure you say Hi from me. When I'm all
completed and I make my flight to Van's, I'd like to go
see him too and see how he's progressing.
Tim
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> Yes she is and the first flight is going to be to Bend to see John and
> his wife. He deserves it. Randy
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Misc Fuel system parts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Tim, try Genuine Aircraft Hardware Co. Page 90 and 91 of their catalog.
This became a major resource book while in A&P school. (805) 239-3169
telco or (805) 239-4871 fax requests. He is real responsive and has a
fabulous catalog. http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Van's doesn't seem to offer the AN815-6D union.....looks like
this will be another slow adventure into the alternate parts
source world. Too bad I just can't have a local source for
this stuff.
I have been picking up spares of many bolts, rivets, and misc.
items as I've ordered, but it always seems that I'm short the
one item I need. I can see that if I even look at the
andair valve, I'm going to go through the same thing again.
Oh well...
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Bolt issue? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
I am sure Randy will jump in here (As the Builder/Owner/Pilot) but I
will offer what I heard Mike say (as the fly on the wall) during the DAR
inspection of N610RV. The rudder cable attachment hardware has the bolt
running from the centerline outboard, on each of the inner rudder
pedals. That places the castellated nuts and safety pins (outboard)
towards either a pilot or co-pilots footwear. Mike was concerned the
pin would snag the occupant's footwear, break and allow loss of pin and
eventual loss of safety. Reversing the bolt direction was unacceptable
as the clearance to the tunnel was too minimal.
He wanted that event of snagging eliminated with final approval. Randy
can illuminate how he solved the observation. There were several
acceptable techniques discussed. I have not looked closely at N410RV or
N220RV but will do so.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Bolt issue?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy,
I heard there was an inspection issue with some bolts in relation to the
rudder pedals and you corrected it. Can you elaborate? I'll be
starting that area shortly and may as well do it right the first time.
Also, if you have time to do a step-by-step write-up of the
registration / inspection / certification process with any listed
forms and links you think people should have, I'll be happy to post
that on my page so as questions come up, we can point people there
and save answering it 400 more times. :)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 23
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| Subject: | Rudder Trailing Edge |
I followed the plans exactly like Van's says. I also had a little bit
of bowing before all the rivets had been set. But as you start to
finish the rivets it will start to straighten back out. Be careful not
to over hit the rivets though. But if you do you can simply flip the
rudder over and start to hit it on the other side using the mushroom set
in the rivet gun and work it until it is perfectly straight. I was
really amazed at how straight the edges came out.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trailing Edge
For all those who used the proseal method for the trailing edge, what do
you do if you start to develop a slight bow? I started developing a bow
in the bottom 12 inches of the rudder, but I think the repeated warnings
in the plans has me spooked a little so I don't think it is all that
bad. Before I go on setting the rest of the rivets (I only have about
half of them half way set) I would like to know what to do to correct
it. Thanks for your thoughts.
--Shawn
40366
________________________________
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
<http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Rudder Trailing Edge |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
An alternate method for riveting the trailing edges.
I purchased a flat set and ground them to the proper angle of the trailing edge.
Then used the hand squeezer to set the rivets. Things to note:
You can't set the hand squeezer to an exact depth but you can get a good idea
of what the rivet is doing during the squeeze.
Also, the sets can rotate, so you might want to mark both sides so you can make
sure they are rotated in alignment before starting the squeeze.
I chose to alternate the finish rivet head from one side to side.
The results were straight edges and good looking rivets.
The skins are so thin that I was just afraid to take a rivet gun to them. You
need to get comfortable doing this because the ailerons and flaps have the same
trailing edge method of assembly. Those are thin skins and the TE material
is not very wide.
Jim Combs
#40192 - Fuselage
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
hrm. Mine appears to bow about 1/64th in the middle if I lay it flat on
the table, and all the rivets are fully set and nicely flush. should I
bang on it a bit from the other side or is it more likely that I'll wind
up making it worse / overcorrecting ?
Thanks,
James
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> I followed the plans exactly like Vans says. I also had a little bit
> of bowing before all the rivets had been set. But as you start to
> finish the rivets it will start to straighten back out. Be careful not
> to over hit the rivets though. But if you do you can simply flip the
> rudder over and start to hit it on the other side using the mushroom
> set in the rivet gun and work it until it is perfectly straight. I was
> really amazed at how straight the edges came out.
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> Cell: 801-319-3094
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Shawn Moon
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 31, 2005 9:37 PM
> *To:* Matronics RV10
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Rudder Trailing Edge
>
> For all those who used the proseal method for the trailing edge, what
> do you do if you start to develop a slight bow? I started developing a
> bow in the bottom 12 inches of the rudder, but I think the repeated
> warnings in the plans has me spooked a little so I don't think it is
> all that bad. Before I go on setting the rest of the rivets (I only
> have about half of them half way set) I would like to know what to do
> to correct it. Thanks for your thoughts.
>
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
>
> Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
> <http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html>
>
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself
at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost |
Thanks Ray.
Michle
DO NOT ARCHIVE
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 3:14 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
> <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
>
> I have a Canon Digital Rebel (6.3 Megapixel). These were taken in the
> lowest resolution which is 1536 x 1024. I then open them with Microsoft
> Photo Editor and do a Save As and set the JPEG Quality Factor to 25 which
> creates the smaller size file.
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> CDNI Principal Engineer
> Sprint PCS
> 16020 West 113th Street
> Lenexa, KS 66219
> Mailstop KSLNXK0101
> (913) 859-1414 (Office)
> (913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
> (913) 859-1234 (Fax)
> Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michle Delsol
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 1:38 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
>
>
> This is off topic - but I am impressed with the quality of the pictures
> given their small size except, for no 2 which apparently suffered a minor
> mishap. What camera did you use or better still - did you process the
> photos
> in any way to get them so small yet so crisp and clear? I use the 1.8 mega
> pixel photo capability on my camcorder - pictures weigh 500+ kb and do not
> exhibit the crispness of yours.
>
> Thanks,
> Michle
> RV8 - Fuselage
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK]
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 7:30 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
> >
> > Tim, you and I seem to be at the same sport. I ended up doing
> > the same thing for the nutplates on the baggage door jam. I drilled the
> > rivet hole to come out the back and then enlarged this hole to 1/4" and
> > back riveted it using a hammer and punch on a backing plate.
> > As for the most forward rivet on the rear side seat pans, I also
> > left this rivet out. I called Van's about it and explain to Bruce there
> > is no way to get this rivet because you can't get to either side of the
> > rivet with the gun. He went on to say you can use a pop rivet at a 15
> > degree angle, but I said it would be more like a 70 degree angle and it
> > wouldn't work. If you look at the drawing that show the rear floor pan,
> > you will notice they don't even show this hole exists, so I wonder if
> > this was added later not thinking about how it would be set.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thank You
> > Ray Doerr
> > 40250 Floor Pans all rivet on.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> > Sent: Monday, May 30, 2005 11:16 PM
> > To: RV10
> > Subject: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > I found 2 "impossible" rivets, and the solution to one of them. QB
> > fuse, by the way.
> >
> > #1 is on the baggage door latch bracket that goes on the fuselage.
> > There are 2 nutplates to attach. 2 of those 4 rivets are not
> > accessible by squeezer or bucking bar. I did, however,
> > find that I have a very small flat squeezer set and I could drill
> > a hole and enlarge with a unibit in the flange underneath the
> > rivet, and get the squeezer through. I just don't know how else
> > you'd do it. Here's a couple of photos.
> >
> > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260017.html
> > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260016.html
> >
> >
> > The other impossible rivets are on the very forward hole of the
> > rear seat panels, on the sidewalls. There are holes that are completely
> > inaccessible by rivet gun, or pop rivet tool. This photo shows the
> > location, a couple inches NorthEast of the rivet set.
> > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505250013.html
> > Short of drilling a hole through my seat bracket, which is NOT
> > worth it, I can't find a way to fill that hole. The ones on the
> > other side of the floor panel by the tunnel could be popped in
> > from the tunnel side I suppose, but you'd have an ugle rivet
> > sticking into the seating area. For now I'm just going to leave
> > them empty. If I got desperate, I'd GLUE in a rivet for looks...
> > then everyone would think I figured out the secret. :)
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > --
> >
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> >
> >
> >
> > ====================================
> > ====================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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|
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=GawpGYjsTwq9MgWmAMqnLkjNnuqxx7aj0QhDRpKsRuhvgRpTAAFEArNkSXSNxv54hGSHfTXD+itba0XZsFjJc4O39SqhigRnQ87rkIWNdLZNk5w8PVUiH1J1ZY/TOwt5k3KRCInFIrH3kHvBnwC2wuXVGev/lTEWgnaA9smGiz0=
;
| Subject: | Rudder Trailing Edge |
Good to know that I am not just going crazy. I will try this when I get home tonight.
I think all of the "be carful" type of warnings in this section of the
plans just has me spooked. Thanks.
Scott Schmidt <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com> wrote:
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}.shape
{behavior:url(#default#VML);}st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui)
}
I followed the plans exactly like Vans says. I also had a little bit of bowing
before all the rivets had been set. But as you start to finish the rivets it
will start to straighten back out. Be careful not to over hit the rivets though.
But if you do you can simply flip the rudder over and start to hit it on
the other side using the mushroom set in the rivet gun and work it until it is
perfectly straight. I was really amazed at how straight the edges came out.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trailing Edge
For all those who used the proseal method for the trailing edge, what do you do
if you start to develop a slight bow? I started developing a bow in the bottom
12 inches of the rudder, but I think the repeated warnings in the plans has
me spooked a little so I don't think it is all that bad. Before I go on setting
the rest of the rivets (I only have about half of them half way set) I would
like to know what to do to correct it. Thanks for your thoughts.
--Shawn
40366
---------------------------------
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
--Shawn
40366
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Bolt issue? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Yes you catch you foot on the cotter pins and bend them strait. Just
put the castle nuts on the side that will keep your feet from hitting
them. Randy
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Bolt issue?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
I am sure Randy will jump in here (As the Builder/Owner/Pilot) but I
will offer what I heard Mike say (as the fly on the wall) during the DAR
inspection of N610RV. The rudder cable attachment hardware has the bolt
running from the centerline outboard, on each of the inner rudder
pedals. That places the castellated nuts and safety pins (outboard)
towards either a pilot or co-pilots footwear. Mike was concerned the
pin would snag the occupant's footwear, break and allow loss of pin and
eventual loss of safety. Reversing the bolt direction was unacceptable
as the clearance to the tunnel was too minimal.
He wanted that event of snagging eliminated with final approval. Randy
can illuminate how he solved the observation. There were several
acceptable techniques discussed. I have not looked closely at N410RV or
N220RV but will do so.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Bolt issue?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy,
I heard there was an inspection issue with some bolts in relation to the
rudder pedals and you corrected it. Can you elaborate? I'll be
starting that area shortly and may as well do it right the first time.
Also, if you have time to do a step-by-step write-up of the registration
/ inspection / certification process with any listed forms and links you
think people should have, I'll be happy to post that on my page so as
questions come up, we can point people there and save answering it 400
more times. :)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Bolt issue? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I will try to get that done soon as several people have dropped into the
FAA hole of Doom. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Bolt issue?
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy,
I heard there was an inspection issue with some bolts in relation to the
rudder pedals and you corrected it. Can you elaborate? I'll be
starting that area shortly and may as well do it right the first time.
Also, if you have time to do a step-by-step write-up of the registration
/ inspection / certification process with any listed forms and links you
think people should have, I'll be happy to post that on my page so as
questions come up, we can point people there and save answering it 400
more times. :)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 30
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "bruce snyder" <SNYDER888@peoplepc.com>
Randy,
How about a report on how your com radios are working out? If I recall
correctly, you used the wingtip model antenna.
Bruce Snyder
#40353 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
You need some rudder in climb out but on Monday I did a climb to 9500
ft. and leveled off. I was still climbing at 1000 ft a min. at 9500 ft.
I have myself and an additional 175 lbs of shot bags, 25 lbs of
paperwork and laptop, and full fuel. That was cool seeing that climb
rate that high. I think that the climb outs will be so short and the
amount of rudder pressure is so light that it won't be worth the
addition. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Kirkland"
--> <jskirkland@webpipe.net>
Hope Randy sees this now that there's a flying airplane in the group. I
was wondering if anyone that has flown one of the RV-10's has thought
that it needed a means of rudder trim? After flying 4.2 hrs XC yesterday
it occurred to me that stepping on the ball during climbout gets old
after a while, and I like the Cessna 182 rudder rim wheel so you can
center the ball once climb is established and you're not so busy. Not
sure if anyone would notice this in a quick demo flight, but by now I'm
sure Randy would know!
John Kirkland
#40333
Message 31
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| Subject: | Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder |
I received my RV-10 QB wings and fuse a couple weeks ago. A lot of "what ifs"
plagued my sleep since, so today I telephoned around to check the price and availability
of builders' insurance. As a student pilot and a first-time RV builder,
I am finding that there are some unique aspects to aviation insurance and
builders' policies. I hope some of the folks who have been around a while can
provide some pointers for a novice.
I called three organizations -- AVEMCO, EAA and USAA Insurance (they cover my home)
here is what I found:
AVEMCO:
I was surprised that AVEMCO is misinformed about the RV-10. Their representative
insisted the -10 is a retractable gear aircraft, "because it says so in the
notes". I've been told there are only 7 or 8 aviation insurance companies, and
only a few write builder insurance. Since there are well over 400 RV-10 kits
under construction, it is surprising that one of the companies writing builders'
policies is misinformed about the -10. It didn't matter because AVEMCO is
not interested in covering my RV-10 -- regardless of the type of gear. AVEMCO
doesn't insure student pilot / builders since they feel it is unlikely they will
have the requisite hours (300?) when the aircraft is completed to qualify
to be insured by AVEMCO. Just guessing, but the build time for an RV-10 is likely
to be the order of 2 or 3 years for a dedicated weekend builder, and perhaps
longer for most. I'm flying an about of 3 hours a week, and if I stay at half
that pace for 2+ years I'll have between 150 and 200 -- time enough to get
my IFR ticket and transition into the -10, but still not enough for AVEMCO.
EAA:
I contacted EAA Insurance and a very friendly agent provided me with a quote for
$40K of builders risk coverage. A friend suggested I inquire about something
called a component endorsement. Evidently, you must have receipts for your QB
kit, or only 40% of the value of the policy is applied towards the airframe.
Even if the receipts burned wit the house, Vans could produce supporting documentation,
so not an issue. $40K policy, $400 per year and 1% of the value for
additional coverage.
USAA:
I contacted USAA, a company I have been doing business with for over 25 years,
to see if they would cover my QB kit under my homeowners policy. The answer was
no. But, to my surprise, USAA is also an aviation insurance broker was able
provided a quote from USAIG for a builders' policy in about 30 minutes. $460 for
$40K of builders insurance.
Before I pull the trigger, and sign up with either EAA Insurance or USAIG, does
anyone have personal experience with either company, or both to share? Any suggestions
for getting good value and good coverage on a builders policy? I appreciate
any feedback you have to offer. quinn.talley@cox.net (please use "RV"
in the subject)
Do not archive
Quinn Talley
RV-10 40295
Finishing the tailcone
N101QT reserved
Message 32
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
The whip in the belly works great. Got it from Van's. The wingtip is
not working well but it is my problem not the antenna's problem (not
grounded). I will let you know when I make the adjustments and retry it.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruce snyder
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bruce snyder" <SNYDER888@peoplepc.com>
Randy,
How about a report on how your com radios are working out? If I recall
correctly, you used the wingtip model antenna.
Bruce Snyder
#40353 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
You need some rudder in climb out but on Monday I did a climb to 9500
ft. and leveled off. I was still climbing at 1000 ft a min. at 9500 ft.
I have myself and an additional 175 lbs of shot bags, 25 lbs of
paperwork and laptop, and full fuel. That was cool seeing that climb
rate that high. I think that the climb outs will be so short and the
amount of rudder pressure is so light that it won't be worth the
addition. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Kirkland"
--> <jskirkland@webpipe.net>
Hope Randy sees this now that there's a flying airplane in the group. I
was wondering if anyone that has flown one of the RV-10's has thought
that it needed a means of rudder trim? After flying 4.2 hrs XC yesterday
it occurred to me that stepping on the ball during climbout gets old
after a while, and I like the Cessna 182 rudder rim wheel so you can
center the ball once climb is established and you're not so busy. Not
sure if anyone would notice this in a quick demo flight, but by now I'm
sure Randy would know!
John Kirkland
#40333
Message 33
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| Subject: | Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder |
What is the price when you have an engine sitting there and with the QB
you are into 80k of value? I had insurance that included 92k builders
cov. and transportation to the airport coverage through AIG. It cost
just under 1000.00 per year. Just for info purposes. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
quinn.talley@cox.net
Subject: RV10-List: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder
I received my RV-10 QB wings and fuse a couple weeks ago. A lot of
"what ifs" plagued my sleep since, so today I telephoned around to check
the price and availability of builders' insurance. As a student pilot
and a first-time RV builder, I am finding that there are some unique
aspects to aviation insurance and builders' policies. I hope some of the
folks who have been around a while can provide some pointers for a
novice.
I called three organizations -- AVEMCO, EAA and USAA Insurance (they
cover my home) here is what I found:
AVEMCO:
I was surprised that AVEMCO is misinformed about the RV-10. Their
representative insisted the -10 is a retractable gear aircraft, "because
it says so in the notes". I've been told there are only 7 or 8 aviation
insurance companies, and only a few write builder insurance. Since there
are well over 400 RV-10 kits under construction, it is surprising that
one of the companies writing builders' policies is misinformed about the
-10. It didn't matter because AVEMCO is not interested in covering my
RV-10 -- regardless of the type of gear. AVEMCO doesn't insure student
pilot / builders since they feel it is unlikely they will have the
requisite hours (300?) when the aircraft is completed to qualify to be
insured by AVEMCO. Just guessing, but the build time for an RV-10 is
likely to be the order of 2 or 3 years for a dedicated weekend builder,
and perhaps longer for most. I'm flying an about of 3 hours a week, and
if I stay at half that pace for 2+ years I'll have between 150 and 200
-- time enough to get my IFR ticket and transition into the -10, but
still not enough for AVEMCO.
EAA:
I contacted EAA Insurance and a very friendly agent provided me with a
quote for $40K of builders risk coverage. A friend suggested I inquire
about something called a component endorsement. Evidently, you must have
receipts for your QB kit, or only 40% of the value of the policy is
applied towards the airframe. Even if the receipts burned wit the house,
Vans could produce supporting documentation, so not an issue. $40K
policy, $400 per year and 1% of the value for additional coverage.
USAA:
I contacted USAA, a company I have been doing business with for over 25
years, to see if they would cover my QB kit under my homeowners policy.
The answer was no. But, to my surprise, USAA is also an aviation
insurance broker was able provided a quote from USAIG for a builders'
policy in about 30 minutes. $460 for $40K of builders insurance.
Before I pull the trigger, and sign up with either EAA Insurance or
USAIG, does anyone have personal experience with either company, or
both to share? Any suggestions for getting good value and good coverage
on a builders policy? I appreciate any feedback you have to offer.
quinn.talley@cox.net (please use "RV" in the subject)
Do not archive
Quinn Talley
RV-10 40295
Finishing the tailcone
N101QT reserved
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs <jochs@froody.org>
You might want to also check with nationair and their "vanguard " program:
http://www.nationair.com/ac_programs/vanguard.php
They are a broker so they will check a few agents. When I spoke with
them they told me two things:
1) there are only two companies underwriting RV-10s currently
2) wait until you purchase the wings to get builders insurance because
of the cost to benefit ratio unless you really want to have insurance
right now.
As a student pilot you can get any of their ground coverages, but not
inflight coverage.
James
quinn.talley@cox.net wrote:
> I received my RV-10 QB wings and fuse a couple weeks ago. A lot of
> "what ifs" plagued my sleep since, so today I telephoned around to
> check the price and availability of builders' insurance. As a student
> pilot and a first-time RV builder, I am finding that there are some
> unique aspects to aviation insurance and builders' policies. I hope
> some of the folks who have been around a while can provide some
> pointers for a novice.
> I called three organizations -- AVEMCO, EAA and USAA Insurance (they
> cover my home) here is what I found:
> AVEMCO:
> I was surprised that AVEMCO is misinformed about the RV-10. Their
> representative insisted the -10 is a retractable gear aircraft,
> "because it says so in the notes". I've been told there are only 7 or
> 8 aviation insurance companies, and only a few write builder
> insurance. Since there are well over 400 RV-10 kits under
> construction, it is surprising that one of the companies writing
> builders' policies is misinformed about the -10. It didn't matter
> because AVEMCO is not interested in covering my RV-10 -- regardless of
> the type of gear. AVEMCO doesn't insure student pilot / builders since
> they feel it is unlikely they will have the requisite hours (300?)
> when the aircraft is completed to qualify to be insured by AVEMCO.
> Just guessing, but the build time for an RV-10 is likely to be the
> order of 2 or 3 years for a dedicated weekend builder, and perhaps
> longer for most. I'm flying an about of 3 hours a week, and if I stay
> at half that pace for 2+ years I'll have between 150 and 200 -- time
> enough to get my IFR ticket and transition into the -10, but still not
> enough for AVEMCO.
> EAA:
> I contacted EAA Insurance and a very friendly agent provided me with a
> quote for $40K of builders risk coverage. A friend suggested I inquire
> about something called a component endorsement. Evidently, you must
> have receipts for your QB kit, or only 40% of the value of the policy
> is applied towards the airframe. Even if the receipts burned wit the
> house, Vans could produce supporting documentation, so not an issue.
> $40K policy, $400 per year and 1% of the value for additional coverage.
> USAA:
> I contacted USAA, a company I have been doing business with for over
> 25 years, to see if they would cover my QB kit under my homeowners
> policy. The answer was no. But, to my surprise, USAA is also an
> aviation insurance broker was able provided a quote from USAIG for a
> builders' policy in about 30 minutes. $460 for $40K of builders
> insurance.
> Before I pull the trigger, and sign up with either EAA Insurance or
> USAIG, does anyone have personal experience with either company, or
> both to share? Any suggestions for getting good value and good
> coverage on a builders policy? I appreciate any feedback you have to
> offer. quinn.talley@cox.net <mailto:quinn.talley@cox.net> (please use
> "RV" in the subject)
> Do not archive
> Quinn Talley
> RV-10 40295
> Finishing the tailcone
> N101QT /reserved/
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself
at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'
Message 35
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| Subject: | Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder |
I recommend you check with Skysmith. Great folks.
http://www.skysmith.com/
Bobby Hughes
40116
Fus
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
quinn.talley@cox.net
Subject: RV10-List: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder
I received my RV-10 QB wings and fuse a couple weeks ago. A lot of
"what ifs" plagued my sleep since, so today I telephoned around to check
the price and availability of builders' insurance. As a student pilot
and a first-time RV builder, I am finding that there are some unique
aspects to aviation insurance and builders' policies. I hope some of the
folks who have been around a while can provide some pointers for a
novice.
I called three organizations -- AVEMCO, EAA and USAA Insurance (they
cover my home) here is what I found:
AVEMCO:
I was surprised that AVEMCO is misinformed about the RV-10. Their
representative insisted the -10 is a retractable gear aircraft, "because
it says so in the notes". I've been told there are only 7 or 8 aviation
insurance companies, and only a few write builder insurance. Since there
are well over 400 RV-10 kits under construction, it is surprising that
one of the companies writing builders' policies is misinformed about the
-10. It didn't matter because AVEMCO is not interested in covering my
RV-10 -- regardless of the type of gear. AVEMCO doesn't insure student
pilot / builders since they feel it is unlikely they will have the
requisite hours (300?) when the aircraft is completed to qualify to be
insured by AVEMCO. Just guessing, but the build time for an RV-10 is
likely to be the order of 2 or 3 years for a dedicated weekend builder,
and perhaps longer for most. I'm flying an about of 3 hours a week, and
if I stay at half that pace for 2+ years I'll have between 150 and 200
-- time enough to get my IFR ticket and transition into the -10, but
still not enough for AVEMCO.
EAA:
I contacted EAA Insurance and a very friendly agent provided me with a
quote for $40K of builders risk coverage. A friend suggested I inquire
about something called a component endorsement. Evidently, you must have
receipts for your QB kit, or only 40% of the value of the policy is
applied towards the airframe. Even if the receipts burned wit the house,
Vans could produce supporting documentation, so not an issue. $40K
policy, $400 per year and 1% of the value for additional coverage.
USAA:
I contacted USAA, a company I have been doing business with for over 25
years, to see if they would cover my QB kit under my homeowners policy.
The answer was no. But, to my surprise, USAA is also an aviation
insurance broker was able provided a quote from USAIG for a builders'
policy in about 30 minutes. $460 for $40K of builders insurance.
Before I pull the trigger, and sign up with either EAA Insurance or
USAIG, does anyone have personal experience with either company, or
both to share? Any suggestions for getting good value and good coverage
on a builders policy? I appreciate any feedback you have to offer.
quinn.talley@cox.net (please use "RV" in the subject)
Do not archive
Quinn Talley
RV-10 40295
Finishing the tailcone
N101QT reserved
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Flaps on Take-Off |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Randy,
I notice on the video you appear to have partial flaps on take-off. Is that standard
procedure? Having not yet flown in a -10, I was wondering.
Jim Combs
#40192 - Fuselage
Message 37
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| Subject: | Flaps on Take-Off |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Well as far as the factory is concerned it is normal procedure. I think
that the reasoning is that the less time on the ground the less wear and
tear on the you tires and equipment. I have not decided if flaps are
the best or not. I have been using 10 deg. to this point most of the
time. This plane really jumps off without flaps. As you can imagine with
10 deg you are airborne right away. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: RV10-List: Flaps on Take-Off
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" <jimc@mail.infra-read.com>
Randy,
I notice on the video you appear to have partial flaps on take-off. Is
that standard procedure? Having not yet flown in a -10, I was
wondering.
Jim Combs
#40192 - Fuselage
Message 38
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| Subject: | Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder |
Whoa. Reverse this "do not archive" this very minute. Which I just did.
Good information.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
quinn.talley@cox.net
Subject: RV10-List: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder
I received my RV-10 QB wings and fuse a couple weeks ago. A lot of "what
ifs" plagued my sleep since, so today I telephoned around to check the price
and availability of builders' insurance. As a student pilot and a first-time
RV builder, I am finding that there are some unique aspects to aviation
insurance and builders' policies. I hope some of the folks who have been
around a while can provide some pointers for a novice.
I called three organizations -- AVEMCO, EAA and USAA Insurance (they cover
my home) here is what I found:
AVEMCO:
I was surprised that AVEMCO is misinformed about the RV-10. Their
representative insisted the -10 is a retractable gear aircraft, "because it
says so in the notes". I've been told there are only 7 or 8 aviation
insurance companies, and only a few write builder insurance. Since there are
well over 400 RV-10 kits under construction, it is surprising that one of
the companies writing builders' policies is misinformed about the -10. It
didn't matter because AVEMCO is not interested in covering my RV-10 --
regardless of the type of gear. AVEMCO doesn't insure student pilot /
builders since they feel it is unlikely they will have the requisite hours
(300?) when the aircraft is completed to qualify to be insured by AVEMCO.
Just guessing, but the build time for an RV-10 is likely to be the order of
2 or 3 years for a dedicated weekend builder, and perhaps longer for most.
I'm flying an about of 3 hours a week, and if I stay at half that pace for
2+ years I'll have between 150 and 200 -- time enough to get my IFR ticket
and transition into the -10, but still not enough for AVEMCO.
EAA:
I contacted EAA Insurance and a very friendly agent provided me with a quote
for $40K of builders risk coverage. A friend suggested I inquire about
something called a component endorsement. Evidently, you must have receipts
for your QB kit, or only 40% of the value of the policy is applied towards
the airframe. Even if the receipts burned wit the house, Vans could produce
supporting documentation, so not an issue. $40K policy, $400 per year and
1% of the value for additional coverage.
USAA:
I contacted USAA, a company I have been doing business with for over 25
years, to see if they would cover my QB kit under my homeowners policy. The
answer was no. But, to my surprise, USAA is also an aviation insurance
broker was able provided a quote from USAIG for a builders' policy in about
30 minutes. $460 for $40K of builders insurance.
Before I pull the trigger, and sign up with either EAA Insurance or USAIG,
does anyone have personal experience with either company, or both to share?
Any suggestions for getting good value and good coverage on a builders
policy? I appreciate any feedback you have to offer. quinn.talley@cox.net
(please use "RV" in the subject)
Do not archive
Quinn Talley
RV-10 40295
Finishing the tailcone
N101QT reserved
Message 39
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
This raises something I've wanted to ask but as usual felt it too obvious a
question and thus exposing the ignorance a little more than usual.
What is the penalty for hanging a whip under the belly? Randy has a whip
and a blade under there. In the quest for a clean looking and clean flying
airplane, are we giving up clear communications, etc. for, what, 1, 2 knots?
John Jessen
(stuck on the VS because I can't find my $%
&* dimple die set)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
The whip in the belly works great. Got it from Van's. The wingtip is not
working well but it is my problem not the antenna's problem (not grounded).
I will let you know when I make the adjustments and retry it.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruce snyder
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bruce snyder" <SNYDER888@peoplepc.com>
Randy,
How about a report on how your com radios are working out? If I recall
correctly, you used the wingtip model antenna.
Bruce Snyder
#40353 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
You need some rudder in climb out but on Monday I did a climb to 9500 ft.
and leveled off. I was still climbing at 1000 ft a min. at 9500 ft.
I have myself and an additional 175 lbs of shot bags, 25 lbs of paperwork
and laptop, and full fuel. That was cool seeing that climb rate that high.
I think that the climb outs will be so short and the amount of rudder
pressure is so light that it won't be worth the addition. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Kirkland"
--> <jskirkland@webpipe.net>
Hope Randy sees this now that there's a flying airplane in the group. I was
wondering if anyone that has flown one of the RV-10's has thought that it
needed a means of rudder trim? After flying 4.2 hrs XC yesterday it occurred
to me that stepping on the ball during climbout gets old after a while, and
I like the Cessna 182 rudder rim wheel so you can center the ball once climb
is established and you're not so busy. Not sure if anyone would notice this
in a quick demo flight, but by now I'm sure Randy would know!
John Kirkland
#40333
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
I also recommend Nation Air. Give Aaron Wedge a call at (877)
475-5860. He patiently answered every question I had.
Couple things...
1. You'll need more than $40K coverage.
2. Note that the EAA coverage does NOT cover transportation (moving it
to airport) while AIG does.
-Sean #40303 (Wing kit arrives tomorrow)
John Jessen wrote:
> Whoa. Reverse this "do not archive" this very minute. Which I just
> did. Good information.
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *quinn.talley@cox.net
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 01, 2005 3:42 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Construction Insurance for a Student
> Pilot/Builder
>
> I received my RV-10 QB wings and fuse a couple weeks ago. A lot
> of "what ifs" plagued my sleep since, so today I telephoned
> around to check the price and availability of builders'
> insurance. As a student pilot and a first-time RV builder, I am
> finding that there are some unique aspects to aviation insurance
> and builders' policies. I hope some of the folks who have been
> around a while can provide some pointers for a novice.
>
> I called three organizations -- AVEMCO, EAA and USAA
> Insurance (they cover my home) here is what I found:
>
> AVEMCO:
> I was surprised that AVEMCO is misinformed about the RV-10. Their
> representative insisted the -10 is a retractable gear aircraft,
> "because it says so in the notes". I've been told there are
> only 7 or 8 aviation insurance companies, and only a few write
> builder insurance. Since there are well over 400 RV-10 kits under
> construction, it is surprising that one of the companies writing
> builders' policies is misinformed about the -10. It didn't matter
> because AVEMCO is not interested in covering my RV-10 --
> regardless of the type of gear. AVEMCO doesn't insure student
> pilot / builders since they feel it is unlikely they will have the
> requisite hours (300?) when the aircraft is completed to qualify
> to be insured by AVEMCO. Just guessing, but the build time for an
> RV-10 is likely to be the order of 2 or 3 years for a dedicated
> weekend builder, and perhaps longer for most. I'm flying an about
> of 3 hours a week, and if I stay at half that pace for 2+
> years I'll have between 150 and 200 -- time enough to get my IFR
> ticket and transition into the -10, but still not enough for AVEMCO.
>
> EAA:
> I contacted EAA Insurance and a very friendly agent provided me
> with a quote for $40K of builders risk coverage. A friend
> suggested I inquire about something called a component
> endorsement. Evidently, you must have receipts for your QB kit, or
> only 40% of the value of the policy is applied towards the
> airframe. Even if the receipts burned wit the house, Vans could
> produce supporting documentation, so not an issue. $40K policy,
> $400 per year and 1% of the value for additional coverage.
>
> USAA:
> I contacted USAA, a company I have been doing business with for
> over 25 years, to see if they would cover my QB kit under my
> homeowners policy. The answer was no. But, to my surprise, USAA is
> also an aviation insurance broker was able provided a quote from
> USAIG for a builders' policy in about 30 minutes. $460 for $40K of
> builders insurance.
>
> Before I pull the trigger, and sign up with either EAA Insurance
> or USAIG, does anyone have personal experience with either
> company, or both to share? Any suggestions for getting good value
> and good coverage on a builders policy? I appreciate any feedback
> you have to offer. quinn.talley@cox.net
> <mailto:quinn.talley@cox.net> (please use "RV" in the subject)
>
> Do not archive
>
> Quinn Talley
> RV-10 40295
> Finishing the tailcone
> N101QT /reserved/
>
>
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Actually John, those words were in the posting twice....so here it
is a 3rd time for the archives. ;)
Tim
John Jessen wrote:
> Whoa. Reverse this "<clipped> DNA" this very minute. Which I just
> did. Good information.
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *quinn.talley@cox.net
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 01, 2005 3:42 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder
>
> I received my RV-10 QB wings and fuse a couple weeks ago. A lot of
> "what ifs" plagued my sleep since, so today I telephoned around to
> check the price and availability of builders' insurance. As a
> student pilot and a first-time RV builder, I am finding that there
> are some unique aspects to aviation insurance and builders'
> policies. I hope some of the folks who have been around a while can
> provide some pointers for a novice.
>
> I called three organizations -- AVEMCO, EAA and USAA Insurance (they
> cover my home) here is what I found:
>
> AVEMCO:
> I was surprised that AVEMCO is misinformed about the RV-10. Their
> representative insisted the -10 is a retractable gear aircraft,
> "because it says so in the notes". I've been told there are only 7
> or 8 aviation insurance companies, and only a few write builder
> insurance. Since there are well over 400 RV-10 kits under
> construction, it is surprising that one of the companies writing
> builders' policies is misinformed about the -10. It didn't matter
> because AVEMCO is not interested in covering my RV-10 -- regardless
> of the type of gear. AVEMCO doesn't insure student pilot /
> builders since they feel it is unlikely they will have the requisite
> hours (300?) when the aircraft is completed to qualify to be insured
> by AVEMCO. Just guessing, but the build time for an RV-10 is likely
> to be the order of 2 or 3 years for a dedicated weekend builder, and
> perhaps longer for most. I'm flying an about of 3 hours a week, and
> if I stay at half that pace for 2+ years I'll have between 150 and
> 200 -- time enough to get my IFR ticket and transition into the -10,
> but still not enough for AVEMCO.
>
> EAA:
> I contacted EAA Insurance and a very friendly agent provided me with
> a quote for $40K of builders risk coverage. A friend suggested
> I inquire about something called a component endorsement. Evidently,
> you must have receipts for your QB kit, or only 40% of the value of
> the policy is applied towards the airframe. Even if the receipts
> burned wit the house, Vans could produce supporting documentation,
> so not an issue. $40K policy, $400 per year and 1% of the value for
> additional coverage.
>
> USAA:
> I contacted USAA, a company I have been doing business with for over
> 25 years, to see if they would cover my QB kit under my homeowners
> policy. The answer was no. But, to my surprise, USAA is also an
> aviation insurance broker was able provided a quote from USAIG for a
> builders' policy in about 30 minutes. $460 for $40K of builders
> insurance.
>
> Before I pull the trigger, and sign up with either EAA Insurance or
> USAIG, does anyone have personal experience with either company, or
> both to share? Any suggestions for getting good value and good
> coverage on a builders policy? I appreciate any feedback you have
> to offer. quinn.talley@cox.net <mailto:quinn.talley@cox.net>
> (please use "RV" in the subject)
>
> >
> Quinn Talley
> RV-10 40295
> Finishing the tailcone
> N101QT /reserved/
>
Message 42
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
From what I understand, the worst antennas would be something that is
round and in the airstream. If you have an antenna with an airfoil
shaped or boat type cross section to the wind, it should have less
drag. That being the case, the bent whips have an airfoil shaped
base, and the wire's pretty darn thin. I'd be guessing that if you
lost 2kts on a pair of bent whip coms, that would be more than I'd
even expect....but I don't know any supporting facts to prove that.
All I can say is that I'd much rather lose the 2kts than the com
signal. If the penalty were that much, we should be worried about
all sorts of other little things too such as the door handles, hinge
bolts, and stuff like that.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
John Jessen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> This raises something I've wanted to ask but as usual felt it too obvious a
> question and thus exposing the ignorance a little more than usual.
>
> What is the penalty for hanging a whip under the belly? Randy has a whip
> and a blade under there. In the quest for a clean looking and clean flying
> airplane, are we giving up clear communications, etc. for, what, 1, 2 knots?
>
>
> John Jessen
> (stuck on the VS because I can't find my $%
&* dimple die set)
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 3:57 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> The whip in the belly works great. Got it from Van's. The wingtip is not
> working well but it is my problem not the antenna's problem (not grounded).
> I will let you know when I make the adjustments and retry it.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruce snyder
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 12:42 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "bruce snyder" <SNYDER888@peoplepc.com>
>
> Randy,
>
> How about a report on how your com radios are working out? If I recall
> correctly, you used the wingtip model antenna.
>
> Bruce Snyder
> #40353 Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 6:06 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> You need some rudder in climb out but on Monday I did a climb to 9500 ft.
> and leveled off. I was still climbing at 1000 ft a min. at 9500 ft.
> I have myself and an additional 175 lbs of shot bags, 25 lbs of paperwork
> and laptop, and full fuel. That was cool seeing that climb rate that high.
> I think that the climb outs will be so short and the amount of rudder
> pressure is so light that it won't be worth the addition. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2005 2:54 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Kirkland"
> --> <jskirkland@webpipe.net>
>
> Hope Randy sees this now that there's a flying airplane in the group. I was
> wondering if anyone that has flown one of the RV-10's has thought that it
> needed a means of rudder trim? After flying 4.2 hrs XC yesterday it occurred
> to me that stepping on the ball during climbout gets old after a while, and
> I like the Cessna 182 rudder rim wheel so you can center the ball once climb
> is established and you're not so busy. Not sure if anyone would notice this
> in a quick demo flight, but by now I'm sure Randy would know!
>
> John Kirkland
> #40333
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder |
> Whoa. Reverse this "do not archive" this very minute. Which I just
> did. Good information.
Okay, I must have been sleeping when someone explained about the "Do Not Archive"
notation. Is this to keep from taking up bandwidth in the archives?
Thanks,
Mark
DO NOT ARCHIVE!
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I'm not sure what you mean...I think you meant to prevent it from
NOT being archived, right....you wanted to CAUSE it to archive....?
If so, you just want to make sure that "do not archive" doesn't appear
anywhere in the message....including the prior post. I noticed that
you said to reverse this "do not archive", but by saying that, it would
also cause it to not archive.
So, if you want things to be long-term retrievable, don't put that
on the message, or, if you have to say it without spelling it, you
could substitute zeros for "oh's" and 1's for I's....that should
stop it.
The only reason to "do not archive" is to prevent junk from filling
the archives to keep them searchable.
Thank goodness we have plenty of "do not archive" statements in this
post, eh? :)
Tim
Mark wrote:
> > Whoa. Reverse this "do not archive" this very minute. Which I just
> > did. Good information.
>
>
> Okay, I must have been sleeping when someone explained about the "Do Not
> Archive" notation. Is this to keep from taking up bandwidth in the
> archives?
> Thanks,
> Mark
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE!
Message 45
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|
spamd4.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
| Subject: | Re: Dent in HS skin |
Thanks for all the info. I only have one problem. We kept going after the skin
was damaged. (This is the first good build session I've had for over a month
so I didn't want to quit). We riveted the front spar to the nose ribs so now
access to the inside of the skin is gone. It's not very many rivets to remove
so I can do that pretty easily, but, is it necessary or can the dent be fixed
later. I'm not trying to get around fixing it now if that's what needs to
be done, but if it can be done later in the finishing stages then I'll wait.
TIA
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 9:54 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
That's one. You will have more. You can get something like a piece of wood shaped
like the nose area. Use it as a backer and try to flatten it out. The problem
is that the alum is stretched now and you will use some bondo or JB weld
to flatten and fill it. This is normal to have happen. Don't worry about it
and move on. Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 10:49 PM
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an accident with the bucking
bar and accidentally put a dent in the leading edge of the HS skin. I'll try
to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact me if you can offer any ideas
and I'll e-mail you the picture. Meanwhile, any thoughts or suggestions
or do I just let the paint shop work this one out???
TIA
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder |
<429E5783.1070102@cox.net> <002201c56721$5a597140$94a1a643@MARK>
Yes, kinda....
We trim posts and Do Not Archive to keep from repeating the same messages and storing
same in the archives. Example would be a three page answer to a question
one page in length. Three people respond in round one, four and in round two
and two in round three. That would mean 144 pages at least in the archives. That's
"gross", pun intended. If only the original question with answers is stored
it's easier to find later & it saves space.
The " > Whoa......" quote is a good example of a trimmed post.
Since this post now has 4 "Do Not Archive"s in it, it wouldn't make it into the
archives unless someone thinks it should. They then need to delete all the "DNA"
references. (no blood pun intended) KABONG 8*)
> Whoa. Reverse this "do not archive" this very minute. Which I just
> did. Good information.
Okay, I must have been sleeping when someone explained about the "Do Not Archive"
notation. Is this to keep from taking up bandwidth in the archives?
Thanks,
Mark
DO NOT ARCHIVE!
Message 47
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Might as well drill out the rivets and fix them now. If not when yhou get
to the finishing stage you will kick yourself in the hiney.
Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
Thanks for all the info. I only have one problem. We kept going after the
skin was damaged. (This is the first good build session I've had for over a
month so I didn't want to quit). We riveted the front spar to the nose ribs
so now access to the inside of the skin is gone. It's not very many rivets
to remove so I can do that pretty easily, but, is it necessary or can the
dent be fixed later. I'm not trying to get around fixing it now if that's
what needs to be done, but if it can be done later in the finishing stages
then I'll wait.
TIA
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy@abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
That's one. You will have more. You can get something like a piece of wood
shaped like the nose area. Use it as a backer and try to flatten it out.
The problem is that the alum is stretched now and you will use some bondo or
JB weld to flatten and fill it. This is normal to have happen. Don't worry
about it and move on. Randy
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an accident with the
bucking bar and accidentally put a dent in the leading edge of the HS skin.
I'll try to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact me if you can
offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you the picture. Meanwhile, any thoughts or
suggestions or do I just let the paint shop work this one out???
TIA
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Performance Comparison |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Scott,
Quick question...did you take into account that the RV's usually post
their speeds in mph, while many others post in Kts? I'm just wondering
if you truly know that the below numbers are MPH, or are the digits
themselves the only part that you verified?
Tim
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Good idea.
>
> OK here is what I have for stall speed:
>
> RV-10 63 mph
>
> 182 56 mph
>
> SR-20 62 mph
>
> SR-22 62 mph
>
>
>
> What do you think for fuel burn for each? They dont list these numbers?
>
> Fuel Burn
>
> RV-10
>
> 182
>
> SR-20
>
> SR-22
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> Dawson-Townsend
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 3:53 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>
>
>
> Scott:
>
>
>
> How about adding fuel burn and stall speeds to your charts?
>
>
>
> TDT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Scott
> Schmidt
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 4:59 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>
> Check out this performance comparison I did with the RV-10, SR-20,
> SR-22, and 182.
> http://www.freedomflyers.com/Performance%20Comparison.ppt
>
> The RV-10 is a great all-around plane.
>
>
>
> I have updated my website and been working on it for a little
> while. The RV-10 has been so easy to build up to this point that I
> dont think we have needed much help. The manuals have been great.
> Anyway, now that I am getting to the finishing work I will start to
> document the work in more detail. www.freedomflyers.com
> <http://www.freedomflyers.com/>
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt (#40111, FWF and Finishing Kit)
>
> Salt Lake City, UT
>
> Cell: 801-319-3094
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder |
Thanks, John
----- Original Message -----
From: JOHN STARN
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 10:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder
Yes, kinda....
We trim posts and Do Not Archive to keep from repeating the same messages and
storing same in the archives. Example would be a three page answer to a question
one page in length. Three people respond in round one, four and in round two
and two in round three. That would mean 144 pages at least in the archives.
That's "gross", pun intended. If only the original question with answers is stored
it's easier to find later & it saves space.
The " > Whoa......" quote is a good example of a trimmed post.
Since this post now has 4 "Do Not Archive"s in it, it wouldn't make it into the
archives unless someone thinks it should. They then need to delete all the
"DNA" references. (no blood pun intended) KABONG 8*)
> Whoa. Reverse this "do not archive" this very minute. Which I just
> did. Good information.
Okay, I must have been sleeping when someone explained about the "Do Not Archive"
notation. Is this to keep from taking up bandwidth in the archives?
Thanks,
Mark
DO NOT ARCHIVE!
Message 50
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Bill,
I agree with Bob. I dented my VS over 12 months ago and it still bugs me.
I will probably remove the skin and fix it - but it would have been simpler
before I zipped up the whole skin. Trying to fix your dent once the HS is
complete (eg rear spar attached) will be a right pain.
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of bob.kaufmann
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
Might as well drill out the rivets and fix them now. If not when yhou get
to the finishing stage you will kick yourself in the hiney.
Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
Thanks for all the info. I only have one problem. We kept going after the
skin was damaged. (This is the first good build session I've had for over a
month so I didn't want to quit). We riveted the front spar to the nose ribs
so now access to the inside of the skin is gone. It's not very many rivets
to remove so I can do that pretty easily, but, is it necessary or can the
dent be fixed later. I'm not trying to get around fixing it now if that's
what needs to be done, but if it can be done later in the finishing stages
then I'll wait.
TIA
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy@abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
That's one. You will have more. You can get something like a piece of wood
shaped like the nose area. Use it as a backer and try to flatten it out.
The problem is that the alum is stretched now and you will use some bondo or
JB weld to flatten and fill it. This is normal to have happen. Don't worry
about it and move on. Randy
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an accident with the
bucking bar and accidentally put a dent in the leading edge of the HS skin.
I'll try to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact me if you can
offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you the picture. Meanwhile, any thoughts or
suggestions or do I just let the paint shop work this one out???
TIA
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
Message 51
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|
| Subject: | Small hammer, Dent in HS skin, |
<009d01c56724$99418a20$0500000a@britton>
Had a similar problem with the leading wing edge of HRII. I found a small brass
headed hammer at the local Ace Hardware. It was in a bucket at checkout. Flat
(slight convex) smooth face with kind of rounded/pointed on the other end. Tried
"dry ice" method to draw it back, No Joy.
The hammer has three screwdrivers in the handle that fit into each other.
"tapped" out most of the dent with it. Took it very slow & very easy over two years.
Tap, tap, tap. Not sure of -10's HS skin thickness. But on N561FS unless
I point it out, you wouldn't find it. Do Not Archive KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
Thanks for all the info. I only have one problem. We kept going after the skin
was damaged. (This is the first good build session I've had for over a month
so I didn't want to quit). We riveted the front spar to the nose ribs so
now TIA
Bill Britton
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
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