Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:25 AM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (dralle@matronics.com)
2. 07:52 AM - Re: Dent in HS skin (Darton Steve)
3. 08:22 AM - Flap position. (Randy's Abros mail)
4. 08:29 AM - Re: Flap position. (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
5. 08:59 AM - Re: Flap position. (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
6. 09:10 AM - Re: Flap position. (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
7. 09:14 AM - Re: Flap position. (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
8. 09:15 AM - Re: Dent in HS skin (Dan Checkoway)
9. 09:20 AM - Re: Performance Comparison (Scott Schmidt)
10. 09:21 AM - Re: Flap position. (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
11. 09:26 AM - Re: Performance Comparison (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
12. 09:29 AM - Re: Flap position. (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
13. 09:30 AM - Re: Dent in HS skin (Ross S)
14. 09:47 AM - Re: Flap position. (Scott Schmidt)
15. 09:55 AM - Re: Dent in HS skin (Scott Schmidt)
16. 10:15 AM - Re: Dent in HS skin (Dan Checkoway)
17. 10:26 AM - Re: Flap position. (Randy DeBauw)
18. 10:27 AM - Re: Flap position. (Larry)
19. 10:35 AM - Rivet Question (Kent Forsythe)
20. 11:01 AM - New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet (Tim Olson)
21. 11:21 AM - Re: Rivet Question (Dan Checkoway)
22. 12:28 PM - Re: Performance Comparison (Tim Olson)
23. 12:48 PM - Re: Rivet Question (Kent Forsythe)
24. 12:54 PM - Re: Dent in HS skin (Scott Schmidt)
25. 01:34 PM - Re: Re: Rivet Question (Dan Checkoway)
26. 03:04 PM - Re: New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet (John R. Lewis)
27. 03:05 PM - Re: Re: Rivet Question (Wayne Edgerton)
28. 03:24 PM - Re: New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet (Tim Olson)
29. 03:38 PM - Re: New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet (Dj Merrill)
30. 05:55 PM - Flap Positioning System Documentation (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
31. 06:46 PM - Re: Dent in HS skin (Bill and Tami Britton)
32. 09:19 PM - Re: Narrow Deck Engine (James Laura Riley)
33. 09:33 PM - Re: Flap Positioning System Documentation (Tim Olson)
34. 09:34 PM - Re: Performance Comparison (Rob Campbell)
35. 09:34 PM - Re: New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet (Larry)
36. 10:25 PM - Re: Performance Comparison (son hoang)
37. 11:53 PM - Re: Flap Positioning System Documentation (Werner Schneider)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
DNA: do not archive
--> RV10-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com
Dear Lister,
Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RV10-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RV10-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
Message 2
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=XNvhwi0XQrSOFJY2qY3taiPedpzwvuhxLy4UmhzrfLmhwkY8HAdC4is9BsudqViebWr55XKSJqg4N+ah+HCTH8tT8myPbHDDXgfwIsBOGmX0JmKm0UIRPPNgmpnDkxNPBJi4M/V4alNM862UiDdjGdFIMvHHFYyxezV23lMmo78=
;
| Subject: | Re: Dent in HS skin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
I would hesitate to drill out any more than just a
couple of rivets, especially a continuous row. You
just can't drill them out without enlarging/elongating
the holes. Also be careful using a rivet gun and a
bucking bar or backing block. This can thin the skin
in that area and cause a "blister" like deformation. I
would leave in the rivets and carefully tap the dent
inward with an auto body hammer. You will then have to
do some cosmetic filling after.
Steve #40212 wings
--- Bill and Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> wrote:
> While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an
> accident with the bucking bar and accidentally put a
> dent in the leading edge of the HS skin. I'll try
> to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact
> me if you can offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you
> the picture. Meanwhile, any thoughts or suggestions
> or do I just let the paint shop work this one out???
>
> TIA
> Bill Britton
> Riveting HS
>
__________________________________
Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html
Message 3
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I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop guys that
worked on the 10 development) with a much better explanation of the flap
workings than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you have the flap
position sensor that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I think is -3 deg.
but I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some drag as it was
explained to me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position which is 0
flaps. You are suppose to use this position during take-off and climb out
lifting them back to reflex as you level off and transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move when you
hit the switch for the first notch. We are all on this learning path at the
same time. Randy
Message 4
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Are you talking about the Van's Flap Control System when you mention the "flap
position sensor"? I presume any of us without said system will have to eyeball
those positions . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Randy's Abros mail
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop guys that worked
on the 10 development) with a much better explanation of the flap workings
than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you have the flap position sensor
that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I think is -3 deg. but
I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some drag as it was explained to
me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position which is 0 flaps.
You are suppose to use this position during take-off and climb out lifting
them back to reflex as you level off and transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move when you hit the
switch for the first notch. We are all on this learning path at the same time.
Randy
Message 5
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Yes you would have eyeball the position. The flap take 14 seconds from
start to finish in full travel. I am very glad that I went to the flap
control system. Sorry about calling it the wrong name. It made it
confusing. Randy
________________________________
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
Are you talking about the Van's Flap Control System when you mention the
"flap position sensor"? I presume any of us without said system will
have to eyeball those positions . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Randy's Abros
mail
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop guys
that worked on the 10 development) with a much better explanation of the
flap workings than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you have
the flap position sensor that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I think is -3
deg. but I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some drag as it was
explained to me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position which
is 0 flaps. You are suppose to use this position during take-off and
climb out lifting them back to reflex as you level off and transition to
cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move when
you hit the switch for the first notch. We are all on this learning
path at the same time. Randy
Message 6
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Randy or others:
Is it possible to also wire in a switch on the stick grip to the Flap positioning
system? i.e. so you can use either the switch on the panel or the switch on
the stick?
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy's Abros mail
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop guys that worked
on the 10 development) with a much better explanation of the flap workings
than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you have the flap position sensor
that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I think is -3 deg. but
I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some drag as it was explained to
me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position which is 0 flaps.
You are suppose to use this position during take-off and climb out lifting
them back to reflex as you level off and transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move when you hit the
switch for the first notch. We are all on this learning path at the same time.
Randy
Message 7
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|
Would anyone with the Flap Positioning System like to scan in any instructions
or drawings that came with it as a PDF file for the rest of us to evaluate?
Thanks,
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
Yes you would have eyeball the position. The flap take 14 seconds from start to
finish in full travel. I am very glad that I went to the flap control system.
Sorry about calling it the wrong name. It made it confusing. Randy
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
Are you talking about the Van's Flap Control System when you mention the "flap
position sensor"? I presume any of us without said system will have to eyeball
those positions . . .
TDT
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Randy's Abros mail
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop guys that worked
on the 10 development) with a much better explanation of the flap workings
than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you have the flap position sensor
that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I think is -3 deg. but
I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some drag as it was explained to
me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position which is 0 flaps.
You are suppose to use this position during take-off and climb out lifting
them back to reflex as you level off and transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move when you hit the
switch for the first notch. We are all on this learning path at the same time.
Randy
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Dent in HS skin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I would hesitate to drill out any more than just a
> couple of rivets, especially a continuous row. You
> just can't drill them out without enlarging/elongating
> the holes.
I wouldn't discourage people from drilling out rivets if that's the best
course of action. You absolutely CAN drill out rivets without affecting the
holes. You just need to know what you're doing.
If anybody needs assistance with the technique, holler.
And by the way, I don't see the point in drilling out rivets to resolve a
dent that has nothing to do with rivets...
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Performance Comparison |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
I do know that Van's posts everything in MPH. I converted everything
from knots to MPH. But I have reported the cruise speed on my
comparison in knots. I will also convert these to knots when I plot
them. I don't know why I used mph right now, I probably looked up the
Van's numbers first and then just stayed consistent with their units.
We need to encourage Van's to get with the aviation units of knots.
So do you have any thoughts on fuel burn at cruise (around 10,000 ft.)?
Do not archive
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Scott,
Quick question...did you take into account that the RV's usually post
their speeds in mph, while many others post in Kts? I'm just wondering
if you truly know that the below numbers are MPH, or are the digits
themselves the only part that you verified?
Tim
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Good idea.
>
> OK here is what I have for stall speed:
>
> RV-10 63 mph
>
> 182 56 mph
>
> SR-20 62 mph
>
> SR-22 62 mph
>
>
>
> What do you think for fuel burn for each? They don't list these
numbers?
>
> Fuel Burn
>
> RV-10
>
> 182
>
> SR-20
>
> SR-22
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> Dawson-Townsend
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 3:53 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>
>
>
> Scott:
>
>
>
> How about adding fuel burn and stall speeds to your charts?
>
>
>
> TDT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Scott
> Schmidt
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 4:59 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>
> Check out this performance comparison I did with the RV-10, SR-20,
> SR-22, and 182.
> http://www.freedomflyers.com/Performance%20Comparison.ppt
>
> The RV-10 is a great all-around plane.
>
>
>
> I have updated my website and been working on it for a little
> while. The RV-10 has been so easy to build up to this point that
I
> don't think we have needed much help. The manuals have been great.
> Anyway, now that I am getting to the finishing work I will start
to
> document the work in more detail. www.freedomflyers.com
> <http://www.freedomflyers.com/>
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt (#40111, FWF and Finishing Kit)
>
> Salt Lake City, UT
>
> Cell: 801-319-3094
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
>
Message 10
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You could I suppose but you thumb is very busy re trimming as the flap
come in. If you had it on the stick as well you would be going back and
forth between buttons. Not very efficient. Randy
________________________________
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
Randy or others:
Is it possible to also wire in a switch on the stick grip to the Flap
positioning system? i.e. so you can use either the switch on the panel
or the switch on the stick?
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy's Abros
mail
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 11:24 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com; rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
=09
=09
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop
guys that worked on the 10 development) with a much better explanation
of the flap workings than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you
have the flap position sensor that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I
think is -3 deg. but I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some
drag as it was explained to me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position
which is 0 flaps. You are suppose to use this position during take-off
and climb out lifting them back to reflex as you level off and
transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move
when you hit the switch for the first notch. We are all on this
learning path at the same time. Randy
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Performance Comparison |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I will hope to give you an exact number after this weekend. Randy
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
--> <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
I do know that Van's posts everything in MPH. I converted everything
from knots to MPH. But I have reported the cruise speed on my
comparison in knots. I will also convert these to knots when I plot
them. I don't know why I used mph right now, I probably looked up the
Van's numbers first and then just stayed consistent with their units.
We need to encourage Van's to get with the aviation units of knots.
So do you have any thoughts on fuel burn at cruise (around 10,000 ft.)?
Do not archive
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Scott,
Quick question...did you take into account that the RV's usually post
their speeds in mph, while many others post in Kts? I'm just wondering
if you truly know that the below numbers are MPH, or are the digits
themselves the only part that you verified?
Tim
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Good idea.
>
> OK here is what I have for stall speed:
>
> RV-10 63 mph
>
> 182 56 mph
>
> SR-20 62 mph
>
> SR-22 62 mph
>
>
>
> What do you think for fuel burn for each? They don't list these
numbers?
>
> Fuel Burn
>
> RV-10
>
> 182
>
> SR-20
>
> SR-22
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> Dawson-Townsend
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 3:53 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>
>
>
> Scott:
>
>
>
> How about adding fuel burn and stall speeds to your charts?
>
>
>
> TDT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Scott
> Schmidt
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 4:59 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>
> Check out this performance comparison I did with the RV-10, SR-20,
> SR-22, and 182.
> http://www.freedomflyers.com/Performance%20Comparison.ppt
>
> The RV-10 is a great all-around plane.
>
>
>
> I have updated my website and been working on it for a little
> while. The RV-10 has been so easy to build up to this point that
I
> don't think we have needed much help. The manuals have been great.
> Anyway, now that I am getting to the finishing work I will start
to
> document the work in more detail. www.freedomflyers.com
> <http://www.freedomflyers.com/>
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt (#40111, FWF and Finishing Kit)
>
> Salt Lake City, UT
>
> Cell: 801-319-3094
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
>
Message 12
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|
I was wondering if I could have the stick switch wired into the Flap Positioning
System, so I could use the "one-touch" feature of the Flap Positioning System
from either the panel or the stick. i.e. hit the Flap switch once, then do
your trim, etc.
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
You could I suppose but you thumb is very busy re trimming as the flap come in.
If you had it on the stick as well you would be going back and forth between
buttons. Not very efficient. Randy
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
Randy or others:
Is it possible to also wire in a switch on the stick grip to the Flap positioning
system? i.e. so you can use either the switch on the panel or the switch on
the stick?
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy's Abros mail
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop guys that worked
on the 10 development) with a much better explanation of the flap workings
than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you have the flap position sensor
that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I think is -3 deg. but
I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some drag as it was explained to
me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position which is 0 flaps.
You are suppose to use this position during take-off and climb out lifting
them back to reflex as you level off and transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move when you hit the
switch for the first notch. We are all on this learning path at the same time.
Randy
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Dent in HS skin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
I've found that you can drill a strait hole that doesn't enlarge the hole,
the problem however, is that most of the time you enlarge the hole when you
squeeze the rivet initially. Therefore, the next rivet has big shoes to
fill.
Ross Schlotthauer
www.experimentalair.com
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
>Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 09:15:29 -0700
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > I would hesitate to drill out any more than just a
> > couple of rivets, especially a continuous row. You
> > just can't drill them out without enlarging/elongating
> > the holes.
>
>I wouldn't discourage people from drilling out rivets if that's the best
>course of action. You absolutely CAN drill out rivets without affecting
>the
>holes. You just need to know what you're doing.
>
>If anybody needs assistance with the technique, holler.
>
>And by the way, I don't see the point in drilling out rivets to resolve a
>dent that has nothing to do with rivets...
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 14
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|
You absolutely should be able to. The difficulty comes when you try to
have the panel, and both sticks wired. The Inifinity guys told me to put
a switch on the panel to select either the co-pilot or pilot. But there
must be an easier way to do this. I would really like to have options at
all three places.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
I was wondering if I could have the stick switch wired into the Flap
Positioning System, so I could use the "one-touch" feature of the Flap
Positioning System from either the panel or the stick. i.e. hit the
Flap switch once, then do your trim, etc.
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 12:21 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
You could I suppose but you thumb is very busy re trimming as
the flap come in. If you had it on the stick as well you would be going
back and forth between buttons. Not very efficient. Randy
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 9:11 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
Randy or others:
Is it possible to also wire in a switch on the stick grip to the
Flap positioning system? i.e. so you can use either the switch on the
panel or the switch on the stick?
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy's Abros
mail
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 11:24 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com; rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of
the shop guys that worked on the 10 development) with a much better
explanation of the flap workings than I had previously. Here is the
skinny. If you have the flap position sensor that Van's sells it has 4
positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX
POSITION. I think is -3 deg. but I am not sure. This is a position to
reduce some drag as it was explained to me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first
position which is 0 flaps. You are suppose to use this position during
take-off and climb out lifting them back to reflex as you level off and
transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg
flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the
flaps move when you hit the switch for the first notch. We are all on
this learning path at the same time. Randy
Message 15
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
You can drill out the rivets without enlarging the holes. I have
drilled out literally hundreds of rivets on my RV-10 when they didn't
come out perfect. The secret is not to touch the skin at all. You
actually should be drilling out bad rivets as you go. The technique is
this:
Drill in the head of the rivet about 1/16" to 1/8" of an inch. That way
if you are a little off center you still won't hit the skin. Then take
the end of the bit you just drilled with or the proper sized punch and
put it in the hole and break of the head of the rivet by pushing the bit
over. Once the head of the rivet is broken off you can center punch the
rest of the rivet out of the hold. This technique takes practice but you
don't have to live with bad rivets on either side of the skin. This
works even better on 470 rivets.
Good luck.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ross S
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
I've found that you can drill a strait hole that doesn't enlarge the
hole,
the problem however, is that most of the time you enlarge the hole when
you
squeeze the rivet initially. Therefore, the next rivet has big shoes to
fill.
Ross Schlotthauer
www.experimentalair.com
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
>Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 09:15:29 -0700
>
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > I would hesitate to drill out any more than just a
> > couple of rivets, especially a continuous row. You
> > just can't drill them out without enlarging/elongating
> > the holes.
>
>I wouldn't discourage people from drilling out rivets if that's the
best
>course of action. You absolutely CAN drill out rivets without
affecting
>the
>holes. You just need to know what you're doing.
>
>If anybody needs assistance with the technique, holler.
>
>And by the way, I don't see the point in drilling out rivets to resolve
a
>dent that has nothing to do with rivets...
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Dent in HS skin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> over. Once the head of the rivet is broken off you can center punch the
> rest of the rivet out of the hold. This technique takes practice but you
Punching the rivet through once the head is drilled off is often not the
best solution. If the flange (i.e. rib, bulkhead, etc.) on the other side
is "flimsy" at all, it will bow out away from the skin...which is something
you can't really solve easily.
If, after breaking the head off, you give it a light tap with the punch and
it doesn't come out, it's probably best to use the drill. You can use a
3/32" or 1/8" bit. Just drill it straight and you won't have any problems.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 17
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Yea that should work.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
I was wondering if I could have the stick switch wired into the Flap
Positioning System, so I could use the "one-touch" feature of the Flap
Positioning System from either the panel or the stick. i.e. hit the
Flap switch once, then do your trim, etc.
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 12:21 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
=09
=09
You could I suppose but you thumb is very busy re trimming as
the flap come in. If you had it on the stick as well you would be going
back and forth between buttons. Not very efficient. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 9:11 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
=09
=09
Randy or others:
Is it possible to also wire in a switch on the stick grip to the
Flap positioning system? i.e. so you can use either the switch on the
panel or the switch on the stick?
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy's Abros
mail
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 11:24 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com; rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
=09
=09
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of
the shop guys that worked on the 10 development) with a much better
explanation of the flap workings than I had previously. Here is the
skinny. If you have the flap position sensor that Van's sells it has 4
positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX
POSITION. I think is -3 deg. but I am not sure. This is a position to
reduce some drag as it was explained to me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first
position which is 0 flaps. You are suppose to use this position during
take-off and climb out lifting them back to reflex as you level off and
transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg
flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the
flaps move when you hit the switch for the first notch. We are all on
this learning path at the same time. Randy
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flap position. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
Anyone considering using the flap positioning system from Aircraft
Extras here: <http://www.aircraftextras.com/FPS-Plus.htm>
Message 19
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
The recent posts regarding drilling out rivets has me wondering of the effects
when a hole gets enlarged. If this happens, won't the new rivet expand out further
to fill the hole and result in the equivalent of a larger diameter rivet.
You would lose some length in the process and would probably need to move up
to the next longer size rivet but the end result would be a rivet with a little
larger diameter which should have equal shear strength (or greater) than the
original. I guess you argue that the amount of rivet shop head extending out
from the hole would be less but isn't shear strength what is really holding
the plane together?
I'm fairly new to this so be kind on your responses :-)
Just trying to learn.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Closing Elevator(s)
Message 20
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| Subject: | New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ok, you're all in for a treat now. Bruce Breckenridge went
all out and worked up a fantastic video/audio tribute to
Randy's project and sent it to me. It's in VCD format,
and I reworked it into a smaller .wmv again as well.
I really suggest you download the VCD though if you have
the ambition, and burn it to CD to play in your DVD player.
For those not familiar with Video CD's, many (not all) DVD
players can play videos compressed in slightly lower quality
but writted to writeable CD's. Most good CD burning software
has the capability to make a VCD. Once burned you can
then watch it on TV, instead of a tiny box on your PC.
Those small boxes on a PC screen actually turn into great
TV pictures.
Here's a direct link to the VCD:
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/videos/DeBauwMVCD.mpg
If you're going to watch it on a PC though, just go here
and get the .wmv.
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
From http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/parts.txt ...
NAS1097AD3-3 RIVETS (LB) $27.31
NAS1097AD3-3.5 RIVETS (LB) $29.45
NAS1097AD3-4 RIVETS (LB) $23.25
NAS1097AD3-6 RIVETS (LB) $26.95
NAS1097AD4-3.5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $22.71
NAS1097AD4-4 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.00
NAS1097AD4-5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $15.00
NAS1097AD4-6 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $18.62
The NAS1097 rivet has a smaller manufactured head than AN426 rivets. There
are at least two common purposes...
1. If you enlarge a 3/32" hole, i.e. when you drill out a rivet or
something, just drill it out to #30. Then you can use an NAS1097AD4-x
rivet. That rivet has the same size head as an AN426AD3-x rivet, but the
shank is 1/8". You'll never know it's there from the outside...they don't
call 'em "OOPS RIVETS" for nothing.
2. When installing nutplates on thin (i.e. .032" or thinner) material, use
the NAS1097AD3-x rivets. Since they have a smaller head, you don't need to
countersink as deeply. If you were to use an AN426 rivet, you'd probably
have to c-sink right through the thin flange...that sucks. When you use an
NAS1097 rivet, you can literally just give the hole a few turns with your
deburring tool, and that will be "deep enough" for the rivet to sit flush.
This kicks butt for nutplates. Faster, easier, less material removed. Keep
in mind that nutplates rivets are NON-structural. They only serve to keep
the nutplate from rotating while you're turning the fastener.
Anyway, do yourself a favor and buy an 1/8 pound each of NAS1097AD3-3.5
rivets for nutplates, and NAS1097AD4-4 rivets for those "oops" situations.
You'll thank me later... ;-)
But in the meantime, practice drilling out those rivets and you'll never
need an oops rivet. I have TWO oops rivets on my RV-7, and the rest are
standard!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Forsythe" <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet Question
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
>
> The recent posts regarding drilling out rivets has me wondering of the
effects when a hole gets enlarged. If this happens, won't the new rivet
expand out further to fill the hole and result in the equivalent of a larger
diameter rivet. You would lose some length in the process and would
probably need to move up to the next longer size rivet but the end result
would be a rivet with a little larger diameter which should have equal shear
strength (or greater) than the original. I guess you argue that the amount
of rivet shop head extending out from the hole would be less but isn't shear
strength what is really holding the plane together?
>
> I'm fairly new to this so be kind on your responses :-)
>
> Just trying to learn.
>
> Kent Forsythe
> 40338
> Closing Elevator(s)
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Performance Comparison |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Randy sent me this power chart....didn't get it posted until now.
See if this helps.
http://www.myrv10.com/files/engines/IO540/power_chart.jpg
Tim
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>
> I do know that Van's posts everything in MPH. I converted everything
> from knots to MPH. But I have reported the cruise speed on my
> comparison in knots. I will also convert these to knots when I plot
> them. I don't know why I used mph right now, I probably looked up the
> Van's numbers first and then just stayed consistent with their units.
> We need to encourage Van's to get with the aviation units of knots.
>
> So do you have any thoughts on fuel burn at cruise (around 10,000 ft.)?
>
>
> Do not archive
>
> Scott Schmidt
> Cell: 801-319-3094
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 10:06 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Scott,
>
> Quick question...did you take into account that the RV's usually post
> their speeds in mph, while many others post in Kts? I'm just wondering
> if you truly know that the below numbers are MPH, or are the digits
> themselves the only part that you verified?
>
> Tim
>
> Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
>>Good idea.
>>
>>OK here is what I have for stall speed:
>>
>>RV-10 63 mph
>>
>>182 56 mph
>>
>>SR-20 62 mph
>>
>>SR-22 62 mph
>>
>>
>>
>>What do you think for fuel burn for each? They don't list these
>
> numbers?
>
>>Fuel Burn
>>
>>RV-10
>>
>>182
>>
>>SR-20
>>
>>SR-22
>>
>>
>>
>>Scott Schmidt
>>
>>sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>>
>>
>
>
>>*From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
>>Dawson-Townsend
>>*Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 3:53 PM
>>*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>>*Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>>
>>
>>
>>Scott:
>>
>>
>>
>>How about adding fuel burn and stall speeds to your charts?
>>
>>
>>
>>TDT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Scott
>> Schmidt
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 4:59 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>>
>> Check out this performance comparison I did with the RV-10, SR-20,
>> SR-22, and 182.
>> http://www.freedomflyers.com/Performance%20Comparison.ppt
>>
>> The RV-10 is a great all-around plane.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have updated my website and been working on it for a little
>> while. The RV-10 has been so easy to build up to this point that
>
> I
>
>> don't think we have needed much help. The manuals have been great.
>
>
>> Anyway, now that I am getting to the finishing work I will start
>
> to
>
>> document the work in more detail. www.freedomflyers.com
>> <http://www.freedomflyers.com/>
>>
>>
>>
>> Scott Schmidt (#40111, FWF and Finishing Kit)
>>
>> Salt Lake City, UT
>>
>> Cell: 801-319-3094
>>
>> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
Dan,
That's some great information. I've heard of the Oops rivets but didn't know the
specifics on them. Is there any structural difference though between a rivet
that is larger diameter from the start, and one that is squeezed to a larger
diameter assuming you can squeeze it straight so that the head is centered?
Just curious...
Kent
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
From http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/parts.txt ...
NAS1097AD3-3 RIVETS (LB) $27.31
NAS1097AD3-3.5 RIVETS (LB) $29.45
NAS1097AD3-4 RIVETS (LB) $23.25
NAS1097AD3-6 RIVETS (LB) $26.95
NAS1097AD4-3.5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $22.71
NAS1097AD4-4 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.00
NAS1097AD4-5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $15.00
NAS1097AD4-6 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $18.62
The NAS1097 rivet has a smaller manufactured head than AN426 rivets. There are
at least two common purposes...
1. If you enlarge a 3/32" hole, i.e. when you drill out a rivet or something,
just drill it out to #30. Then you can use an NAS1097AD4-x rivet. That rivet
has the same size head as an AN426AD3-x rivet, but the shank is 1/8". You'll
never know it's there from the outside...they don't call 'em "OOPS RIVETS" for
nothing.
2. When installing nutplates on thin (i.e. .032" or thinner) material, use the
NAS1097AD3-x rivets. Since they have a smaller head, you don't need to countersink
as deeply. If you were to use an AN426 rivet, you'd probably have to c-sink
right through the thin flange...that sucks. When you use an
NAS1097 rivet, you can literally just give the hole a few turns with your deburring
tool, and that will be "deep enough" for the rivet to sit flush.
This kicks butt for nutplates. Faster, easier, less material removed. Keep in
mind that nutplates rivets are NON-structural. They only serve to keep the nutplate
from rotating while you're turning the fastener.
Anyway, do yourself a favor and buy an 1/8 pound each of NAS1097AD3-3.5 rivets
for nutplates, and NAS1097AD4-4 rivets for those "oops" situations.
You'll thank me later... ;-)
But in the meantime, practice drilling out those rivets and you'll never need an
oops rivet. I have TWO oops rivets on my RV-7, and the rest are standard!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 24
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
Dan, I agree. But once that head is broken off is much easier to drill
a hole straight through the rivet.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> over. Once the head of the rivet is broken off you can center punch
the
> rest of the rivet out of the hold. This technique takes practice but
you
Punching the rivet through once the head is drilled off is often not the
best solution. If the flange (i.e. rib, bulkhead, etc.) on the other
side
is "flimsy" at all, it will bow out away from the skin...which is
something
you can't really solve easily.
If, after breaking the head off, you give it a light tap with the punch
and
it doesn't come out, it's probably best to use the drill. You can use a
3/32" or 1/8" bit. Just drill it straight and you won't have any
problems.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm no engineer, but here's my answer...
"Fill the hole with some sort of rivet and move on."
Don't over-think it. Thankfully Van's over-engineered the structure for us.
99% of the time, one rivet isn't gonna make enough of a difference to worry
about it. If in doubt, call Van's.
do not archive
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Forsythe" <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rivet Question
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
>
> Dan,
>
> That's some great information. I've heard of the Oops rivets but didn't
know the specifics on them. Is there any structural difference though
between a rivet that is larger diameter from the start, and one that is
squeezed to a larger diameter assuming you can squeeze it straight so that
the head is centered?
>
> Just curious...
>
> Kent
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> >From http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/parts.txt ...
>
> NAS1097AD3-3 RIVETS (LB) $27.31
> NAS1097AD3-3.5 RIVETS (LB) $29.45
> NAS1097AD3-4 RIVETS (LB) $23.25
> NAS1097AD3-6 RIVETS (LB) $26.95
> NAS1097AD4-3.5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $22.71
> NAS1097AD4-4 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.00
> NAS1097AD4-5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $15.00
> NAS1097AD4-6 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $18.62
>
> The NAS1097 rivet has a smaller manufactured head than AN426 rivets.
There are at least two common purposes...
>
> 1. If you enlarge a 3/32" hole, i.e. when you drill out a rivet or
something, just drill it out to #30. Then you can use an NAS1097AD4-x
rivet. That rivet has the same size head as an AN426AD3-x rivet, but the
shank is 1/8". You'll never know it's there from the outside...they don't
call 'em "OOPS RIVETS" for nothing.
>
> 2. When installing nutplates on thin (i.e. .032" or thinner) material,
use the NAS1097AD3-x rivets. Since they have a smaller head, you don't need
to countersink as deeply. If you were to use an AN426 rivet, you'd probably
have to c-sink right through the thin flange...that sucks. When you use an
> NAS1097 rivet, you can literally just give the hole a few turns with your
deburring tool, and that will be "deep enough" for the rivet to sit flush.
> This kicks butt for nutplates. Faster, easier, less material removed.
Keep in mind that nutplates rivets are NON-structural. They only serve to
keep the nutplate from rotating while you're turning the fastener.
>
> Anyway, do yourself a favor and buy an 1/8 pound each of NAS1097AD3-3.5
rivets for nutplates, and NAS1097AD4-4 rivets for those "oops" situations.
> You'll thank me later... ;-)
>
> But in the meantime, practice drilling out those rivets and you'll never
need an oops rivet. I have TWO oops rivets on my RV-7, and the rest are
standard!
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John R. Lewis" <john@aspzone.com>
That brought tears to my eyes. Wow.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Ok, you're all in for a treat now. Bruce Breckenridge went
all out and worked up a fantastic video/audio tribute to
Randy's project and sent it to me. It's in VCD format,
and I reworked it into a smaller .wmv again as well.
I really suggest you download the VCD though if you have
the ambition, and burn it to CD to play in your DVD player.
For those not familiar with Video CD's, many (not all) DVD
players can play videos compressed in slightly lower quality
but writted to writeable CD's. Most good CD burning software
has the capability to make a VCD. Once burned you can
then watch it on TV, instead of a tiny box on your PC.
Those small boxes on a PC screen actually turn into great
TV pictures.
Here's a direct link to the VCD:
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/videos/DeBauwMVCD.mpg
If you're going to watch it on a PC though, just go here
and get the .wmv.
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter@grandecom.net>
I've been told by George Orndorff, GeoBeck, that I could probably screw up
30% of the rivets and the plane would still be stronger than a similar
production plane. Like Dan, I figure a couple wouldn't hurt you.
Wayne E #40366
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rivet Question
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I'm no engineer, but here's my answer...
>
> "Fill the hole with some sort of rivet and move on."
>
> Don't over-think it. Thankfully Van's over-engineered the structure for
> us.
> 99% of the time, one rivet isn't gonna make enough of a difference to
> worry
> about it. If in doubt, call Van's.
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kent Forsythe" <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 12:47 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rivet Question
>
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
>>
>> Dan,
>>
>> That's some great information. I've heard of the Oops rivets but didn't
> know the specifics on them. Is there any structural difference though
> between a rivet that is larger diameter from the start, and one that is
> squeezed to a larger diameter assuming you can squeeze it straight so that
> the head is centered?
>>
>> Just curious...
>>
>> Kent
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>>
>> >From http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/parts.txt ...
>>
>> NAS1097AD3-3 RIVETS (LB) $27.31
>> NAS1097AD3-3.5 RIVETS (LB) $29.45
>> NAS1097AD3-4 RIVETS (LB) $23.25
>> NAS1097AD3-6 RIVETS (LB) $26.95
>> NAS1097AD4-3.5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $22.71
>> NAS1097AD4-4 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.00
>> NAS1097AD4-5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $15.00
>> NAS1097AD4-6 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $18.62
>>
>> The NAS1097 rivet has a smaller manufactured head than AN426 rivets.
> There are at least two common purposes...
>>
>> 1. If you enlarge a 3/32" hole, i.e. when you drill out a rivet or
> something, just drill it out to #30. Then you can use an NAS1097AD4-x
> rivet. That rivet has the same size head as an AN426AD3-x rivet, but the
> shank is 1/8". You'll never know it's there from the outside...they don't
> call 'em "OOPS RIVETS" for nothing.
>>
>> 2. When installing nutplates on thin (i.e. .032" or thinner) material,
> use the NAS1097AD3-x rivets. Since they have a smaller head, you don't
> need
> to countersink as deeply. If you were to use an AN426 rivet, you'd
> probably
> have to c-sink right through the thin flange...that sucks. When you use
> an
>> NAS1097 rivet, you can literally just give the hole a few turns with your
> deburring tool, and that will be "deep enough" for the rivet to sit flush.
>> This kicks butt for nutplates. Faster, easier, less material removed.
> Keep in mind that nutplates rivets are NON-structural. They only serve to
> keep the nutplate from rotating while you're turning the fastener.
>>
>> Anyway, do yourself a favor and buy an 1/8 pound each of NAS1097AD3-3.5
> rivets for nutplates, and NAS1097AD4-4 rivets for those "oops" situations.
>> You'll thank me later... ;-)
>>
>> But in the meantime, practice drilling out those rivets and you'll never
> need an oops rivet. I have TWO oops rivets on my RV-7, and the rest are
> standard!
>>
>> )_( Dan
>> RV-7 N714D
>> http://www.rvproject.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Same here.....almost like it watching a little boy get his
FAVORITE toy for Christmas. Wait....that IS what happend. ;)
Tim
John R. Lewis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John R. Lewis" <john@aspzone.com>
>
> That brought tears to my eyes. Wow.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 11:01 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Ok, you're all in for a treat now. Bruce Breckenridge went
> all out and worked up a fantastic video/audio tribute to
> Randy's project and sent it to me. It's in VCD format,
> and I reworked it into a smaller .wmv again as well.
> I really suggest you download the VCD though if you have
> the ambition, and burn it to CD to play in your DVD player.
> For those not familiar with Video CD's, many (not all) DVD
> players can play videos compressed in slightly lower quality
> but writted to writeable CD's. Most good CD burning software
> has the capability to make a VCD. Once burned you can
> then watch it on TV, instead of a tiny box on your PC.
> Those small boxes on a PC screen actually turn into great
> TV pictures.
>
> Here's a direct link to the VCD:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/videos/DeBauwMVCD.mpg
>
> If you're going to watch it on a PC though, just go here
> and get the .wmv.
> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html
>
> Tim
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Tim Olson wrote:
> If you're going to watch it on a PC though, just go here
> and get the .wmv.
> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html
That is just... awesome!
-Dj
do not archive
Message 30
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| Subject: | Flap Positioning System Documentation |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 31
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|
spamd4.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
| Subject: | Re: Dent in HS skin |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william@gbta.net>
Thanks for all the help guys. After careful consideration and re-examining
the dent I've decided that it's not that bad. I'll leave it alone for now
and see what the paint shop has to recommend if and when I ever get that
far. For the meantime, back to the HS.
Thanks again,
Bill Britton
Riveting HS #40137
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>
> I would hesitate to drill out any more than just a
> couple of rivets, especially a continuous row. You
> just can't drill them out without enlarging/elongating
> the holes. Also be careful using a rivet gun and a
> bucking bar or backing block. This can thin the skin
> in that area and cause a "blister" like deformation. I
> would leave in the rivets and carefully tap the dent
> inward with an auto body hammer. You will then have to
> do some cosmetic filling after.
> Steve #40212 wings
> --- Bill and Tami Britton <william@gbta.net> wrote:
>
> > While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an
> > accident with the bucking bar and accidentally put a
> > dent in the leading edge of the HS skin. I'll try
> > to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact
> > me if you can offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you
> > the picture. Meanwhile, any thoughts or suggestions
> > or do I just let the paint shop work this one out???
> >
> > TIA
> > Bill Britton
> > Riveting HS
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out!
> http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Narrow Deck Engine |
Sam,
I have a Jeff Rose electronic ignition system on my IO-360 narrow deck
engine. I've flow 150 hours in the past year and a half with no
problems what so ever. He offers an excellent system in my opinion.
I'm hoping he will come out with a system for the 540's. My engine was
built by Bob Barrows (the Bear Hawk guy) out of Virginia. It's been
very reliable.
I also run premium auto fuel quite often without a hitch. The only
thing I've found with the auto fuel is the EGT doesn't run as hot and
I'm losing around 3-4 mph top speed. NO BIG DEAL, when I'm saving $20
per tank of gas! Bob recommends using 100LL every third tank to keep
the valves running smoothly.
My two cents,
Jim Riley
#40191 finishing wings
Does anyone have any experience with Gary Barber of Outlaw Aviation out
of Florida? No offense to Floridian's, but the last guy from Florida I
dealt with (McClow) was far from reputable!
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flap Positioning System Documentation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks for sending this out Bob. I noticed that the .jpgs to the group
came out messed up, but I posted it on my site as well.
You can get it off my Tips link (in .jpg or .pdf) from:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips
or direct here in .pdf
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/flap_positioner/FlapPositionerInstall.pdf
(The .pdf will be easier to download and read)
I also posted some new items that might be of interest to some. I ended
up finishing my ordering of large items for the panel today, and quickly
wanted to lay out my panel because we're gonna be scrambling to get it
cut so it's ready for OSH. To see how the layout would fit, I created
the major items in True-size printable .jpg's available on the tips page
as well. I taped them up to the panel and tested for fit.
I found that with my current layout, the center rib will likely not be
an issue, but once again the overall height that Van's provides us with
the panel is a very limiting factor. I can make 3-1/8" backup
instruments fit, but 2-1/4" fit much better. I have some good photos
available on a link off from: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/panel
I'm really starting to wish that they would have made that panel 1"
taller.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Somebody requested the documentation for the Van's flap positioning
> system in .pdf. Unfortunately I have a few domestic IT issues that
> prevent me from doing the conversion but I've attached .jpg files of
> the two pages. Just in case the list strips the attachments I've
> cc'd Tim and maybe he can post them.
>
> Sorry about the file sizes - I was concerned that if I compressed
> them further it would compromise the readability.
>
> Bob #40105
>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Performance Comparison |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Campbell <1global@adelphia.net>
Scott,
I completely agree with you that aircraft manufacturers should
advertise their numbers in knots. They know they should but don't
for marketing reasons. Doesn't 200 mph sound better than 176 knots?
It does to me. Also, a potential buyer could somehow compare his
speed to that of a car (mph) as well as figure mpg, another term we
are very familiar with and fond of. If I want to go to Vegas for the
weekend and I know it's 200 miles (statute that is) away, then I know
my 200 mph airplane will take about an hour to make the flight. Wind
is reported in knots, airspeed indicators are in knots, and
everything we do when we fly is in knots so why knot report the
numbers in knots when advertising the airplane? Marketing, purely
marketing. Sad but true.
Rob
On Jun 2, 2005, at 9:20 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
> <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>
> I do know that Van's posts everything in MPH. I converted everything
> from knots to MPH. But I have reported the cruise speed on my
> comparison in knots. I will also convert these to knots when I plot
> them. I don't know why I used mph right now, I probably looked up the
> Van's numbers first and then just stayed consistent with their units.
> We need to encourage Van's to get with the aviation units of knots.
>
> So do you have any thoughts on fuel burn at cruise (around 10,000
> ft.)?
>
>
> Do not archive
>
> Scott Schmidt
> Cell: 801-319-3094
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 10:06 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Scott,
>
> Quick question...did you take into account that the RV's usually post
> their speeds in mph, while many others post in Kts? I'm just
> wondering
> if you truly know that the below numbers are MPH, or are the digits
> themselves the only part that you verified?
>
> Tim
>
> Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
>> Good idea.
>>
>> OK here is what I have for stall speed:
>>
>> RV-10 63 mph
>>
>> 182 56 mph
>>
>> SR-20 62 mph
>>
>> SR-22 62 mph
>>
>>
>>
>> What do you think for fuel burn for each? They don't list these
>>
> numbers?
>
>>
>> Fuel Burn
>>
>> RV-10
>>
>> 182
>>
>> SR-20
>>
>> SR-22
>>
>>
>>
>> Scott Schmidt
>>
>> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>>
>>
>>
> --
>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
>> Dawson-Townsend
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 3:53 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>>
>>
>>
>> Scott:
>>
>>
>>
>> How about adding fuel burn and stall speeds to your charts?
>>
>>
>>
>> TDT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Scott
>> Schmidt
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 4:59 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>>
>> Check out this performance comparison I did with the RV-10,
>> SR-20,
>> SR-22, and 182.
>> http://www.freedomflyers.com/Performance%20Comparison.ppt
>>
>> The RV-10 is a great all-around plane.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have updated my website and been working on it for a little
>> while. The RV-10 has been so easy to build up to this point that
>>
> I
>
>> don't think we have needed much help. The manuals have been
>> great.
>>
>
>
>> Anyway, now that I am getting to the finishing work I will start
>>
> to
>
>> document the work in more detail. www.freedomflyers.com
>> <http://www.freedomflyers.com/>
>>
>>
>>
>> Scott Schmidt (#40111, FWF and Finishing Kit)
>>
>> Salt Lake City, UT
>>
>> Cell: 801-319-3094
>>
>> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
The video was so good I made the entire family watch it.
My wife's comment, "I like those seats. They look comfortable."
My reply was, "If thats what you want, no problem". I did not mention
that they were standard. :-X
Larry
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Performance Comparison |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "son hoang" <son@hoangs.com>
how about visibility..reported in miles !!!!????
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Campbell" <1global@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Campbell <1global@adelphia.net>
>
> Scott,
> I completely agree with you that aircraft manufacturers should
> advertise their numbers in knots. They know they should but don't
> for marketing reasons. Doesn't 200 mph sound better than 176 knots?
> It does to me. Also, a potential buyer could somehow compare his
> speed to that of a car (mph) as well as figure mpg, another term we
> are very familiar with and fond of. If I want to go to Vegas for the
> weekend and I know it's 200 miles (statute that is) away, then I know
> my 200 mph airplane will take about an hour to make the flight. Wind
> is reported in knots, airspeed indicators are in knots, and
> everything we do when we fly is in knots so why knot report the
> numbers in knots when advertising the airplane? Marketing, purely
> marketing. Sad but true.
> Rob
>
> On Jun 2, 2005, at 9:20 AM, Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
> > <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
> >
> > I do know that Van's posts everything in MPH. I converted everything
> > from knots to MPH. But I have reported the cruise speed on my
> > comparison in knots. I will also convert these to knots when I plot
> > them. I don't know why I used mph right now, I probably looked up the
> > Van's numbers first and then just stayed consistent with their units.
> > We need to encourage Van's to get with the aviation units of knots.
> >
> > So do you have any thoughts on fuel burn at cruise (around 10,000
> > ft.)?
> >
> >
> > Do not archive
> >
> > Scott Schmidt
> > Cell: 801-319-3094
> > sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 10:06 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> >
> > Scott,
> >
> > Quick question...did you take into account that the RV's usually post
> > their speeds in mph, while many others post in Kts? I'm just
> > wondering
> > if you truly know that the below numbers are MPH, or are the digits
> > themselves the only part that you verified?
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > Scott Schmidt wrote:
> >
> >> Good idea.
> >>
> >> OK here is what I have for stall speed:
> >>
> >> RV-10 63 mph
> >>
> >> 182 56 mph
> >>
> >> SR-20 62 mph
> >>
> >> SR-22 62 mph
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> What do you think for fuel burn for each? They don't list these
> >>
> > numbers?
> >
> >>
> >> Fuel Burn
> >>
> >> RV-10
> >>
> >> 182
> >>
> >> SR-20
> >>
> >> SR-22
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Scott Schmidt
> >>
> >> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> > --
> >
> >>
> >> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> >> Dawson-Townsend
> >> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 3:53 PM
> >> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> >> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Scott:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> How about adding fuel burn and stall speeds to your charts?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> TDT
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Scott
> >> Schmidt
> >> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 4:59 PM
> >> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> >> *Subject:* RV10-List: Performance Comparison
> >>
> >> Check out this performance comparison I did with the RV-10,
> >> SR-20,
> >> SR-22, and 182.
> >> http://www.freedomflyers.com/Performance%20Comparison.ppt
> >>
> >> The RV-10 is a great all-around plane.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I have updated my website and been working on it for a little
> >> while. The RV-10 has been so easy to build up to this point that
> >>
> > I
> >
> >> don't think we have needed much help. The manuals have been
> >> great.
> >>
> >
> >
> >> Anyway, now that I am getting to the finishing work I will start
> >>
> > to
> >
> >> document the work in more detail. www.freedomflyers.com
> >> <http://www.freedomflyers.com/>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Scott Schmidt (#40111, FWF and Finishing Kit)
> >>
> >> Salt Lake City, UT
> >>
> >> Cell: 801-319-3094
> >>
> >> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Flap Positioning System Documentation |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
Tim,
I would avoid to have just one line of switches down there, grouping them in
rows of 3-5 depending on the task masks an easy finding in a stressful
situation =(;O) which I know will never happen in an RV-10.
Werner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Documentation
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Thanks for sending this out Bob. I noticed that the .jpgs to the group
> came out messed up, but I posted it on my site as well.
>
> You can get it off my Tips link (in .jpg or .pdf) from:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips
>
> or direct here in .pdf
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/flap_positioner/FlapPositionerInstall.pdf
> (The .pdf will be easier to download and read)
>
> I also posted some new items that might be of interest to some. I ended
> up finishing my ordering of large items for the panel today, and quickly
> wanted to lay out my panel because we're gonna be scrambling to get it
> cut so it's ready for OSH. To see how the layout would fit, I created
> the major items in True-size printable .jpg's available on the tips page
> as well. I taped them up to the panel and tested for fit.
>
> I found that with my current layout, the center rib will likely not be
> an issue, but once again the overall height that Van's provides us with
> the panel is a very limiting factor. I can make 3-1/8" backup
> instruments fit, but 2-1/4" fit much better. I have some good photos
> available on a link off from: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/panel
> I'm really starting to wish that they would have made that panel 1"
> taller.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> > Somebody requested the documentation for the Van's flap positioning
> > system in .pdf. Unfortunately I have a few domestic IT issues that
> > prevent me from doing the conversion but I've attached .jpg files of
> > the two pages. Just in case the list strips the attachments I've
> > cc'd Tim and maybe he can post them.
> >
> > Sorry about the file sizes - I was concerned that if I compressed
> > them further it would compromise the readability.
> >
> > Bob #40105
> >
>
>
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