Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:19 AM - Re: Anywhere MAP/WX (Russell Daves)
2. 05:03 AM - Re: Anywhere MAP/WX (stevenflys1@juno.com)
3. 07:21 AM - Re: Back To Building ()
4. 08:25 AM - Re: Anywhere MAP/WX (Bill McCoy)
5. 12:06 PM - Enclosure Test... (Matt Dralle)
6. 12:25 PM - Attachments to the list (Tim Olson)
7. 03:46 PM - QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (Marcus Cooper)
8. 03:48 PM - Beating Engine Mount into Submission (DejaVu)
9. 06:50 PM - Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (Tim Olson)
10. 07:18 PM - Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (Mark)
11. 08:01 PM - Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (Tim Olson)
12. 08:23 PM - Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump) (Marcus Cooper)
13. 09:01 PM - Re: Beating Engine Mount into Submission (Randy DeBauw)
14. 09:34 PM - Re: Anywhere MAP/WX (James Laura Riley)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Anywhere MAP/WX |
GRT is adding WX Weather to their system as an option for $1500.00. Should be
available late this year.
Russ Daves
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Anywhere MAP/WX |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "stevenflys1@juno.com" <stevenflys1@juno.com>
I have owned Anywhere WX for two years. I have the sat phone, not XM. I would
classify this system as excellent. The weather updates are quick and easy to
interpret. They offer a lot of functionality for a small price. I have flown
coast-to-coast with this system in my Grumman Tiger and it was very handy.
Anywhere is continuously improving their software and the updates are included
in your subscription price. Their new Raven system looks like a winner to me.
Large screen and fast processor. I am not affiliated with them in any way.
I'm just a happy customer.
Steven Morris
Ordering my kit at Oshkosh
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Back To Building |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <ricksked@earthlink.net>
Sean,
I heard two reasons, one: The spar material only comes in that length, and
two: The sheet metal break can only handle material that length...
Rick S.
40185
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Back To Building
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Finally back to building. Wing Kit (slowbuild) finally showed up
> yesterday after a one month delay.
>
> It's good to be back in the action. Was going a little stir crazy with
> nothing more to do on the emp kit.
>
> One question out of curiosity. Why the spar extensions? Are they using
> the same spars as the -9 or something and just needed to extend them 6
> inches?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
Message 4
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=dE2qpLGZAY2gdzc71AdRKii7eePqEmr7PqMJRaIM4XQBVhCPEA8H5dxPh/iUUcGBso5c9ekm7FcSvGZK/XOYjzCGHv87KLVJknz0fCyhVPM95qXb99V1G1DSAyXDuvG16TcD0j2Wgyz16TDNOhiOzYPBYCTS2GZOZc4ExJBSJmw=
;
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere MAP/WX |
I have Anywhere WX XM for my PDA. I works great! I have there XP version for my
laptop, but my PA-28 180 is way to cramped to enjoy it. I like the resolution
and graphics better on the XP version w/laptop. I'm on the waiting list for
the Raven.
Mark #40167 Elevators.
"stevenflys1@juno.com" <stevenflys1@juno.com> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "stevenflys1@juno.com"
I have owned Anywhere WX for two years. I have the sat phone, not XM. I would classify
this system as excellent. The weather updates are quick and easy to interpret.
They offer a lot of functionality for a small price. I have flown coast-to-coast
with this system in my Grumman Tiger and it was very handy. Anywhere
is continuously improving their software and the updates are included in your
subscription price. Their new Raven system looks like a winner to me. Large
screen and fast processor. I am not affiliated with them in any way. I'm just
a happy customer.
Steven Morris
Ordering my kit at Oshkosh
---------------------------------
Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it out!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Enclosure Test... |
Testing the RV-10 List filters against some bitmaps. View or ignore, your
chioce...
Matt Dralle
List Admin
Message 6
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| Subject: | Attachments to the list |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey guys,
I just got an email from Matt regarding our .jpg attachments
that had gotten screwed up on the list over the last couple days.
Like that interior shot of the primer, and Bob's flap system
instructions. I had Matt look into it this weekend and
gave him comparison emails based on Bob's original email so
he could figure out what was going on, and he actually got it
fixed today. I can't believe he's so dedicated as to work the
weekend on that kind of thing...what a guy!
Anyway, our .jpg's and other attachments should get posted
without getting messed up from here on. If we see other
bugs, I'm sure he'll tackle them for us.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 7
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| Subject: | QB Fuselage Temp Rivets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it in the
archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there aren't
separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already been done
and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going through
the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at the
beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros or cons
for either option?
Thanks,
Marcus
Message 8
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| Subject: | Beating Engine Mount into Submission |
Is the engine mount similar to the gear mounts where I can expect to beat it into
submission?
There are six 3/16 holes on the firewall - the 4 corners and the bottom center
two. So far I have final-drilled the top right corner hole (looking at the firewall
from the front of the plane) and getting ready to match-drill the rest.
Aligning the mount as best as I can and looking into each of the remaining holes
clockwise starting with the bottom right corner, that one lines up fairly
well. The 3/16" firewall holes of the two center ones, bottom left corner, and
top left corner are respectively at 7, 8, 9, and 10 o'clock of the engine mount
holes. All sit inside of the engine mount holes except for the bottom center
two holes.
Looking at the engine mount I can only see the top left corner hole of the engine
mount giving.
How much have others had to beat the engine mount into submission?
Anh
#141
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions just
don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
instructions. My advice is this:
Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions page
by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your fuselage,
even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled through
his spar.
It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
things done, it'll start to flow again.
You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
.311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
them there for drilling and fitting.
As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
with a little help if needed.
It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
this summer.
I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
photos of how I got started.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it in the
> archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>
> I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there aren't
> separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already been done
> and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going through
> the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at the
> beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros or cons
> for either option?
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets |
Great Post Tim!
Is this your first aircraft project? This will be my first and I was hoping that
the plans would match up with the parts I will be looking at. Your comment
about the guy drilling through his spar sounds just like something I might do
:-(
Mark
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Olson
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions just
don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
instructions. My advice is this:
Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions page
by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your fuselage,
even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled through
his spar.
It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
things done, it'll start to flow again.
You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
.311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
them there for drilling and fitting.
As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
with a little help if needed.
It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
this summer.
I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
photos of how I got started.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it in the
> archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>
> I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there aren't
> separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already been done
> and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going through
> the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at the
> beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros or cons
> for either option?
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Yeah, this is my first one. It's looking like I may actually complete
this one in my lifetime...if my lifetime doesn't end abruptly. The
plans on the tail kit are very good, with only a couple of minor things
I'd change (Like warning you not to let too much of a nose rib stick
out BEFORE you start the vertical stab, instead of waiting until the
Horizontal stab). The plans on the wings are pretty much excellent.
When you get to the fuse though, the plans aren't quite as easy to
follow, and worse yet for the Quickbuild folks, when you get your
QB fuselage, you have a whole shotgun scatter throughout the plans
of things that aren't done from many or most of the sections. Lots
of it is just little stuff, but it gets harder to follow when you have
to figure out what someone else had done already. It's not
too bad though if you just spend the time on each page to make
sure all steps were done, and then write them down. After I had
many things itemized, I just went to work on them one by one
until I got my list shortened to almost nothing.
Other than that, the only real hangup is that you don't become
aware of the OTHER supplies you'll need until it's the last
minute. Things like:
Antennas
Soundproofing
Fuel Pump
Fuel Totalizer
Fuel Filter
Fuel Valve & Fittings (If you want the Andair Valve)
Baggage Door lock (comes with ignition switch - sold separately)
...things like that. You just don't want to be caught unprepared
not having those things purchased...it'll slow you down.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Mark wrote:
> Great Post Tim!
>
> Is this your first aircraft project? This will be my first and I was
> hoping that the plans would match up with the parts I will be looking
> at. Your comment about the guy drilling through his spar sounds just
> like something I might do :-(
>
> Mark
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Tim Olson <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 05, 2005 8:49 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com
> <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
>
> Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions just
> don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
> keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
> instructions. My advice is this:
>
> Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions page
> by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your fuselage,
> even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
> with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
> notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
> through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
> can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
> You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
> with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
> might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
> other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled through
> his spar.
>
> It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
> a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
> things done, it'll start to flow again.
>
> You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
> right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
> I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
> rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
> whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
> hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
> of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
> run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
>
> Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
> you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
> plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
> 3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
> will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
> need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
> I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
> rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
>
> Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
> 7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
> brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
> .311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
>
> It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
> to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
> If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
> safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
> belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
> for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
> them there for drilling and fitting.
>
> As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
> and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
> I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
> area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
> got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
> with a little help if needed.
>
> It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
> panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
> to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
> and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
> I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
> continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
> to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
> that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
> it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
> this summer.
>
> I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
> photos of how I got started.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
> <coop85@bellsouth.net <mailto:coop85@bellsouth.net>>
> >
> > I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find
> it in the
> > archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
> >
> > I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there
> aren't
> > separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already
> been done
> > and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering
> going through
> > the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at the
> > beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any
> pros or cons
> > for either option?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Marcus
> > =========================p; Navigator Photoshare, and much
> much ;
> ===============================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Tim,
Awesome response, thanks for all the information and ideas. You do bring
up another question in a follow up post though. What kind of fuel pump are
you using? I had an IO-540 on my Skybolt and remember needing a high
pressure pump vs the MUCH cheaper Facet pump for the carbureted engines. I
am leaning toward an IO-540 for this as well (AeroSport plans to have the
new kit Lycoming shortly after Oshkosh this year).
Thanks again,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions just
don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
instructions. My advice is this:
Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions page
by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your fuselage,
even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled through
his spar.
It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
things done, it'll start to flow again.
You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
.311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
them there for drilling and fitting.
As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
with a little help if needed.
It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
this summer.
I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
photos of how I got started.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it in the
> archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>
> I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there aren't
> separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already been done
> and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going
through
> the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at the
> beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros or cons
> for either option?
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Beating Engine Mount into Submission |
Ahn, I didn't have to do much but run a tapered drift punch into the holes to help
line them up. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Beating Engine Mount into Submission
Is the engine mount similar to the gear mounts where I can expect to beat it into
submission?
There are six 3/16 holes on the firewall - the 4 corners and the bottom center
two. So far I have final-drilled the top right corner hole (looking at the firewall
from the front of the plane) and getting ready to match-drill the rest.
Aligning the mount as best as I can and looking into each of the remaining holes
clockwise starting with the bottom right corner, that one lines up fairly
well. The 3/16" firewall holes of the two center ones, bottom left corner, and
top left corner are respectively at 7, 8, 9, and 10 o'clock of the engine mount
holes. All sit inside of the engine mount holes except for the bottom center
two holes.
Looking at the engine mount I can only see the top left corner hole of the engine
mount giving.
How much have others had to beat the engine mount into submission?
Anh
#141
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Anywhere MAP/WX |
Jesse,
I have the Any Where Map system in my RV-6. It gives me a color moving
map on a Cassiopeia E-125. The software is nice; the symbology is good;
and it has some nice decluttering features. However, it has one major
flaw, the battery! When the battery goes, so does your software! Many
times in the taxi out to the runway, I've gone to power it up only to
find the main battery had died, and the backup (watch style) battery was
dead and my software was gone! The Cassiopeia would turn on because of
the planes 12V power. However, the system was worthless without the
SOFTWARE.
I know Control Vision is using many different PDA's these days, but they
are all susceptible to this. The PDA wasn't designed to run for hours
on end while being plugged in your aircrafts 12V power supply. They are
meant to be charged over night and run off of the battery until the
battery is close to being dead. This keeps the battery in good shape.
If you constantly run the PDA off of the aircrafts 12V, the battery
develops a memory, which shortens its life. After that, it constantly
drains your back-up battery, leading to dumped software.
Maybe it's different with the laptop computers, I don't know. But, my
money for the -10 is going into a dedicated aircraft navigation system.
It's just too important to mess around with.
My two cents,
Jim Riley
#40191 Wings
I have been thinking a lot about the possibilities of using software
like
Anywhere Map and their Anywhere WX options on a laptop or
panel-mounted LCD
screen to have good, high-detail moving map and weather in the
cockpit. It
looks like this can be done for about $3,000 plus a monthly
subscription to
the XM Weather plan. Is anybody else planning on doing this?
Does anybody
else have experience with this or any other similar system? I
would rather
pay $3,000 and have the flexibility that this would offer than pay
$5,000-6,000 for the upgrade for my Garmin 430. It would also
allow me to
take the system with me in other planes if there was room. Also,
a 12"
screen dedicated to map and weather would be very nice to look at,
and it
could play DVD's or could be used for catching up on the RV-10
list e-mails
while the TruTrak is in control.
Any thoughts, warnings, encouragement, etc is welcome!
Does anybody know the serial number of the 3rd -10 flying? This
definitely
seems like it is going to be the year of the -10.
Jesse Saint
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