Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:34 AM - Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump) (Rob Kermanj)
2. 01:37 AM - Re: fuselage (Rob Kermanj)
3. 02:28 AM - Re: fuselage (PJ Seipel)
4. 05:30 AM - Re: fuselage (Rob Kermanj)
5. 06:13 AM - Tank Sealant Question (Kent Forsythe)
6. 06:18 AM - Re: FW: Pictures of your RV-10 (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
7. 06:34 AM - Re: Tank Sealant Question (bob.kaufmann)
8. 06:43 AM - Re: Tank Sealant Question (linn walters)
9. 06:44 AM - Re: fuselage (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
10. 06:50 AM - Re: Tank Sealant Question (Rene Felker)
11. 06:50 AM - Re: Tank Sealant Question (Tim Olson)
12. 07:23 AM - Re: FW: Pictures of your RV-10 (Randy DeBauw)
13. 07:31 AM - Re: Tank Sealant Question (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
14. 10:07 AM - Re: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost (Deems Davis)
15. 10:08 AM - Tubing Bender And Flare Tools (Sean Stephens)
16. 11:37 AM - Re: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
17. 11:51 AM - Re: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
18. 12:35 PM - Re: Re: Throttle cable bracket (Mark Chamberlain)
19. 12:41 PM - Oregon Aero seats (Mark Chamberlain)
20. 12:59 PM - Re: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools (Dan Checkoway)
21. 01:12 PM - Re: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
22. 01:24 PM - Re: Tank Sealant Question (Rick)
23. 01:29 PM - Re: Tank Sealant Question (Rick)
24. 02:16 PM - Re: Oregon Aero seats (Rob Kermanj)
25. 02:32 PM - Re: Oregon Aero seats (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
26. 02:50 PM - Painting (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
27. 03:02 PM - Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (540 Kit) (Marcus Cooper)
28. 03:53 PM - Re: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
29. 04:46 PM - Fuel tank countersink ? (John Hasbrouck)
30. 05:10 PM - Re: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools (JOHN STARN)
31. 05:11 PM - Re: Tank Sealant Question (bob.kaufmann)
32. 05:39 PM - Re: Oregon Aero seats (Barry Chapman)
33. 07:05 PM - Re: Oregon Aero seats (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
34. 07:32 PM - Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help (Deems Davis)
35. 07:45 PM - Re: Fuel tank countersink ? (Dan Checkoway)
36. 08:41 PM - Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help (John Kirkland)
37. 08:46 PM - Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help (Darton Steve)
38. 09:47 PM - Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help (Tim Olson)
39. 10:22 PM - Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - THANKS (Deems Davis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
Marcus,
I heard the same thing at Sun/Fun about Superior (from Mattituck guys).
I wonder if this is all rumors. I have a contact at Superior and
talked to him (man to Man). He said that there are no plans at this
time and we should not plan our project in anticipation of a Superior
engine.
I have left a message with Oliver at Lycoming to find out for sure.
Will let everyone know about my findings.
Rob.
On Jun 6, 2005, at 7:34 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> Rob,
> I haven't talked to Lycoming, but I did speak to the folks at
> Aerosport
> and they were very confident the engine would be out by Oshkosh,
> possibly
> even mid Jul. I also spoke to Allen at Barrett Performance Engines
> (bpaengines.com) and he said the same thing, I don't know their price
> though. Apparently there are only a handful of places that will be
> authorized to assemble the engine. The engine will have a data plate
> from
> the assembling company in lieu of Lycoming, otherwise all new parts.
>
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 5:50 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>
> Marcus, I tried talking to Lycoming about the "experimental Engine"
> that I noticed on this list. The person that can answer the question
> is out until July 6th (perhaps he means June 6th). Have you actually
> talked to them. Is a new Experimental engine for real?
>
> Thanks, Rob.
>
> On Jun 6, 2005, at 5:35 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
>> <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Tim,
>> Thanks again for the words. I wouldn't kick myself too hard about
>> the
>> AeroSport engine you bought though. They said the price hadn't been
>> pinned
>> down yet, but would most likely be right between the current overhaul
>> price
>> and Van's new price - ie about $35,000.
>>
>> Marcus
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 7:32 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Marcus,
>>
>> I've not really done any research into the fuel pumps, so I
>> can't tell you if I got a good one, or not. But, if you
>> turn to the pages in the plans that have fuel lines on them,
>> they'll point out the Van's pump. ES Airflow Fuel Pump,
>> ES Airflow Fuel Filter, and they have the Fuel Totalizer there
>> as well, but you usually get that with your EIS I'm told.
>> I verified that yes, in my case with the Chelton, I'd get it
>> with my Grand Rapids EIS....so I'm currently working to get
>> that piece delivered a.s.a.p. so I'm not held up for too
>> long in running my fuel lines. That kind of thing will really
>> hold you back. In fact, delivery of avionics in general will
>> likely run 4-8 weeks in some cases, so you may as well pin down
>> which EIS you're going to use and start buying....or if nothing
>> else, just purchase the fuel flow transducer and don't buy
>> it with the EIS. Either way, like I mentioned, it's actually
>> time to start finalizing at least some things in regards to
>> your panel....this stuff sneaks up on you.
>>
>> Oh, and the engine choice....another one to probably get
>> hammered out too. If you don't, then some of these fuel
>> components might have to be changed. You don't use the
>> same fuel valve with the Continental. I'd just decide
>> and commit.
>>
>> I just KNEW that the timing was such that I was going to be
>> short-sold on my engine. ;) Here you're telling me that
>> even AeroSport plans to have the new ECI Kit shortly after
>> OSH. Heck, I'll be picking up my probably more expensive
>> AeroSport engine AT OSH! (for those who are going, my engine
>> is their IO-540 demo engine this year). Not only that, but
>> I heard from someone else that Lycoming themselves are now
>> about to launch 4 new engines that are for Homebuilts only,
>> to get into this non-certified market....including an IO-540
>> model, that will be at a lower cost. If Van's can sell the
>> current Lycoming Factory IO-540 for around $39K, I wonder
>> how much this experimental version will save. I bet it'll
>> save a good couple thousand. I'll just be hoping that
>> y'all have to pay top dollar for them there engines so that
>> I don't feel so hosed buy buying my "rebuilt" from
>> Aerosport. <G> ;)
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>
>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
>>> <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>> Awesome response, thanks for all the information and ideas. You
>>> do
>> bring
>>> up another question in a follow up post though. What kind of fuel
>>> pump
>> are
>>> you using? I had an IO-540 on my Skybolt and remember needing a high
>>> pressure pump vs the MUCH cheaper Facet pump for the carbureted
>>> engines.
>> I
>>> am leaning toward an IO-540 for this as well (AeroSport plans to have
>>> the
>>> new kit Lycoming shortly after Oshkosh this year).
>>>
>>> Thanks again,
>>> Marcus
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 9:50 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>
>>> Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions
>>> just
>>> don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
>>> keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
>>> instructions. My advice is this:
>>>
>>> Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions
>>> page
>>> by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your
>>> fuselage,
>>> even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
>>> with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
>>> notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
>>> through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
>>> can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
>>> You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
>>> with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
>>> might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
>>> other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled
>>> through
>>> his spar.
>>>
>>> It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
>>> a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
>>> things done, it'll start to flow again.
>>>
>>> You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
>>> right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
>>> I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
>>> rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
>>> whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
>>> hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
>>> of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
>>> run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
>>>
>>> Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
>>> you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
>>> plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
>>> 3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
>>> will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
>>> need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
>>> I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
>>> rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
>>>
>>> Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
>>> 7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
>>> brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
>>> .311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
>>>
>>> It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
>>> to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
>>> If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
>>> safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
>>> belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
>>> for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
>>> them there for drilling and fitting.
>>>
>>> As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
>>> and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
>>> I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
>>> area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
>>> got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
>>> with a little help if needed.
>>>
>>> It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
>>> panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
>>> to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
>>> and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
>>> I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
>>> continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
>>> to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
>>> that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
>>> it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
>>> this summer.
>>>
>>> I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
>>> photos of how I got started.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>> Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
>>>> <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>>
>>>> I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it
>>>> in the
>>>> archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>>>>
>>>> I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there
>>>> aren't
>>>> separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already
>>>> been done
>>>> and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going
>>>
>>> through
>>>
>>>> the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at
>>>> the
>>>> beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros
>>>> or cons
>>>> for either option?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Marcus
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
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Sean, It is a great Idea. I kinda did the same thing myself. I
bought the QB wings.
Rob.
On Jun 6, 2005, at 8:42 PM, Sean Blair wrote:
> I=92m looking for advice again. Right now I=92m well into the construction
> of the tailcone and think it might be good to go directly to the
> fuselage (slow build) afterward.=A0 This way I can eventually connect
> the two and put it on the gear.=A0 I=92m concerned about multiple pieces
> lying around the shop and see this as a way to =93consolidate=94 them.=A0
> Wings would get done after this. Is this an okay idea?=A0 Any input
> would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair
>
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
Sounds like a good idea to me, but you'll want to check with Van's
because your spar center sections come with the wing kit and are
supposedly matched to your spars. I'm sure they'd be able to include
them with your fuselage, but I'd check with them first.
PJ
Rob Kermanj wrote:
> Sean, It is a great Idea. I kinda did the same thing myself. I bought
> the QB wings.
>
> Rob.
>
> On Jun 6, 2005, at 8:42 PM, Sean Blair wrote:
>
> Im looking for advice again. Right now Im well into the
> construction of the tailcone and think it might be good to go
> directly to the fuselage (slow build) afterward. This way I can
> eventually connect the two and put it on the gear. Im concerned
> about multiple pieces lying around the shop and see this as a way
> to consolidate them. Wings would get done after this. Is this
> an okay idea? Any input would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
The spar sections do not come matched. Van decided that the items were
manufactured exact enough that they did not have to be in pairs. In
fact, my spar belonged to another kit and I called them to make sure it
would fit my fuselage.
Rob.
On Jun 7, 2005, at 5:27 AM, PJ Seipel wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
>
> Sounds like a good idea to me, but you'll want to check with Van's
> because your spar center sections come with the wing kit and are
> supposedly matched to your spars. I'm sure they'd be able to include
> them with your fuselage, but I'd check with them first.
> PJ
>
> Rob Kermanj wrote:
>
>> Sean, It is a great Idea. I kinda did the same thing myself. I bought
>> the QB wings.
>>
>> Rob.
>>
>> On Jun 6, 2005, at 8:42 PM, Sean Blair wrote:
>>
>> Im looking for advice again. Right now Im well into the
>> construction of the tailcone and think it might be good to go
>> directly to the fuselage (slow build) afterward. This way I can
>> eventually connect the two and put it on the gear. Im concerned
>> about multiple pieces lying around the shop and see this as a way
>> to consolidate them. Wings would get done after this. Is this
>> an okay idea? Any input would be appreciated.
>> Thanks,
>> Sean Blair
>>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Tank Sealant Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
For those of you experts out there with tank sealants....are you using a scale
to measure out the two parts or is there a 'street smart' method that works well?
I'll buy a scale if I need to but wasn't sure how exact the proportions needed
to be. From model building, I could always eyeball the parts of epoxy but
then again, those were equal quantities.
If a scale is the answer, are there any recommendations on a reliable one that
does .1 gram accuracy?
As always...thanks in advance,
Oh yeh.....anyone else counting the hours until July 25th?
Kent Forsythe
40338
Oh so close to finishing the Elevators!
Wings are "in the house"
Message 6
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| Subject: | FW: Pictures of your RV-10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
Do you have any idea what the price of just the rear seat cores
are worth?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Pictures of your RV-10
Hey everyone. Just thought I would do a little showing off. Attached
are
the pictures of the seats that I came up with through Oregon Aero. Two
tone
leather and then I had them embroider some clip art and the wording into
the
tops of the seats. They should go nicely with the paint scheme and
Hooker
Harnesses of the same colors. Be warned though......on top of the
"included" price in the finish kit of the two front seats, I shelled out
over $3,800.00 for the upholstery and back seat cores. Maybe not smart,
but
I'll be looking at them everyday for years and don't think I'll regret
it
later. Oregon Aero said they may feature these in there upcoming
catalog.
Overall they were good to deal with, but there seemed to be somewhat of
a
disconnect between them and Van's along the way. No complaints now
though.
Sean Blair
N967SB (reserved)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Tank Sealant Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Its really eeasy to mix, go to any sight with pictures and look at the
color. Match the color and if its darker it will go off faster, and if its
lighter it will go off slower. Kind of go for a titanium color.
Bob K
PS That's what I did and on the tanks and they did not leak on the first
test.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Sealant Question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
For those of you experts out there with tank sealants....are you using a
scale to measure out the two parts or is there a 'street smart' method that
works well? I'll buy a scale if I need to but wasn't sure how exact the
proportions needed to be. From model building, I could always eyeball the
parts of epoxy but then again, those were equal quantities.
If a scale is the answer, are there any recommendations on a reliable one
that does .1 gram accuracy?
As always...thanks in advance,
Oh yeh.....anyone else counting the hours until July 25th?
Kent Forsythe
40338
Oh so close to finishing the Elevators!
Wings are "in the house"
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Tank Sealant Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Back when I was building a BD-5 (yeah, I still have the carcase is for
sale!) I used aluminum measuring spoons to measure both of the two
parts. A finger in a (back then) rubber glove was used to remove the
stuff from the spoons to a piece of glass for mixing. Popsicle sticks
made a great spreader! Used acetone (if I remember right ..) for
cleanup. Let the sealant cure on the glass and use a razor scraper to
clean it off the glass. Warming the white sealant a little with a light
bulb makes it more manageable.
Linn
do not archive
Kent Forsythe wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
>
>For those of you experts out there with tank sealants....are you using a scale
to measure out the two parts or is there a 'street smart' method that works well?
I'll buy a scale if I need to but wasn't sure how exact the proportions
needed to be. From model building, I could always eyeball the parts of epoxy
but then again, those were equal quantities.
>
>If a scale is the answer, are there any recommendations on a reliable one that
does .1 gram accuracy?
>
>As always...thanks in advance,
>
>Oh yeh.....anyone else counting the hours until July 25th?
>
>Kent Forsythe
>40338
>Oh so close to finishing the Elevators!
>Wings are "in the house"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Message 9
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Sean,
As Tim mentions, you're going to have to get the spar center section
which is normally delivered with the wings and is matched to the wing
spars. The entire fuselage is built around that center section so
there's really not much you can do without it.
If you haven't built before, I'd recommend doing the wings before the
fuselage to get the experience and "seasoning". Although
straightforward, the fuselage kit requires a lot more head scratching
during the build than either the tail or wings.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuselage
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
How did you manage to get the seats already, or did you already
get your finishing kit and fuselage, you just haven't started
on them?
Other than the wing center section, I don't see any reason why
you couldn't start the fuselage first if you had to.
Tim
Sean Blair wrote:
> I'm looking for advice again. Right now I'm well into the construction
> of the tailcone and think it might be good to go directly to the
> fuselage (slow build) afterward. This way I can eventually connect
the
> two and put it on the gear. I'm concerned about multiple pieces lying
> around the shop and see this as a way to "consolidate" them. Wings
> would get done after this. Is this an okay idea? Any input would be
> appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Tank Sealant Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
I just went down to bath bed and beyond and got a cheapo plastic scale. Has
worked great so far...have done, rudder, elevators, ailerons, and
flaps.......fuel tanks are this weekend.
Rene'
N423cf
40322
Fuel Tanks (broke countersink bit, on hold awaiting two new ones)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Sealant Question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
For those of you experts out there with tank sealants....are you using a
scale to measure out the two parts or is there a 'street smart' method that
works well? I'll buy a scale if I need to but wasn't sure how exact the
proportions needed to be. From model building, I could always eyeball the
parts of epoxy but then again, those were equal quantities.
If a scale is the answer, are there any recommendations on a reliable one
that does .1 gram accuracy?
As always...thanks in advance,
Oh yeh.....anyone else counting the hours until July 25th?
Kent Forsythe
40338
Oh so close to finishing the Elevators!
Wings are "in the house"
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Tank Sealant Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Personally, I eyeballed. I don't think the proportions
are that exacting. If you use too little hardner, it will
just take a little longer to stiffen up. I think that stuff
is so awful sticky that it would be very hard to deal with
on a scale, and you'd want a metal one.
But, I do think that there are some others who have used
scales....so obviously opinions may differ.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Kent Forsythe wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
>
> For those of you experts out there with tank sealants....are you using a scale
to measure out the two parts or is there a 'street smart' method that works
well? I'll buy a scale if I need to but wasn't sure how exact the proportions
needed to be. From model building, I could always eyeball the parts of epoxy
but then again, those were equal quantities.
>
> If a scale is the answer, are there any recommendations on a reliable one that
does .1 gram accuracy?
>
> As always...thanks in advance,
>
> Oh yeh.....anyone else counting the hours until July 25th?
>
> Kent Forsythe
> 40338
> Oh so close to finishing the Elevators!
> Wings are "in the house"
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | FW: Pictures of your RV-10 |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Nice Sean. They are as comfortable as the are good looking. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Pictures of your RV-10
Hey everyone. Just thought I would do a little showing off. Attached
are the pictures of the seats that I came up with through Oregon Aero.
Two tone leather and then I had them embroider some clip art and the
wording into the tops of the seats. They should go nicely with the
paint scheme and Hooker Harnesses of the same colors. Be warned
though......on top of the "included" price in the finish kit of the two
front seats, I shelled out over $3,800.00 for the upholstery and back
seat cores. Maybe not smart, but I'll be looking at them everyday for
years and don't think I'll regret it later. Oregon Aero said they may
feature these in there upcoming catalog.
Overall they were good to deal with, but there seemed to be somewhat of
a disconnect between them and Van's along the way. No complaints now
though.
Sean Blair
N967SB (reserved)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Tank Sealant Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR@wernerco.com>
What I did was to go down to WallyWorld's Aviation department, and
bought their digital scale, it will measure in grams, put it in a
ziplock bag, and used paper plates to mix it on, it has a tare function,
so you can zero it for the weight of the paper plate. Made it real easy,
and I got to throw out the plate each time for less clean up. I also
bought two different sizes of sticks to spread with, and used the
livestock syringe for a good bead line on the ribs.
YMMV
Dan
20269
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Sealant Question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kent Forsythe
<matronix.rv10@4sythe.com>
For those of you experts out there with tank sealants....are you using a
scale to measure out the two parts or is there a 'street smart' method
that works well? I'll buy a scale if I need to but wasn't sure how
exact the proportions needed to be. From model building, I could always
eyeball the parts of epoxy but then again, those were equal quantities.
If a scale is the answer, are there any recommendations on a reliable
one that does .1 gram accuracy?
As always...thanks in advance,
Oh yeh.....anyone else counting the hours until July 25th?
Kent Forsythe
40338
Oh so close to finishing the Elevators!
Wings are "in the house"
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Ray, where did you purchase your 'gold primer' it looks like alodine. I've
searched the PPG website for Armour / Armor Grip and came up empty, do you
have a product number or some other link? Also how did you do the
application? Spray?
thanks
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
Give me a call any time on my Cell. 913) 226-0106
I'm slow build all the way. It has taken me 3 months and 300
hours to get the fuse to the Quick Build stage. I figure that means I
made $5350/300 or $17.83 an hour. The primer is PPG Armor Grip and I
love the way it looks and applies. It sticks very well to just a clean
alcad surface.
I currently have 890 hours in on my project. I'm thinking I am
almost at the half way point. I am expecting to be flying in 2000 hours
with everything painted and completed. I am targeting fall of 06 for
first flight, how about you?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Wow, we really are at the same exact spot! Hey, can you send your
photos again? The first one came out all screwy.
Very pretty inside with that gold primer. I wish I'd have gone
that route on the fuselage I think. All of my green will be hidden
though, and at least it'll be easy to see stuff leaking on it.
You're QB or slow build? Must be quick to be that far, huh?
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> Tim, you and I seem to be at the same sport. I ended up doing
> the same thing for the nutplates on the baggage door jam. I drilled
the
> rivet hole to come out the back and then enlarged this hole to 1/4"
and
> back riveted it using a hammer and punch on a backing plate.
> As for the most forward rivet on the rear side seat pans, I also
> left this rivet out. I called Van's about it and explain to Bruce
there
> is no way to get this rivet because you can't get to either side of
the
> rivet with the gun. He went on to say you can use a pop rivet at a 15
> degree angle, but I said it would be more like a 70 degree angle and
it
> wouldn't work. If you look at the drawing that show the rear floor
pan,
> you will notice they don't even show this hole exists, so I wonder if
> this was added later not thinking about how it would be set.
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250 Floor Pans all rivet on.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2005 11:16 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I found 2 "impossible" rivets, and the solution to one of them. QB
> fuse, by the way.
>
> #1 is on the baggage door latch bracket that goes on the fuselage.
> There are 2 nutplates to attach. 2 of those 4 rivets are not
> accessible by squeezer or bucking bar. I did, however,
> find that I have a very small flat squeezer set and I could drill
> a hole and enlarge with a unibit in the flange underneath the
> rivet, and get the squeezer through. I just don't know how else
> you'd do it. Here's a couple of photos.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260017.html
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260016.html
>
>
> The other impossible rivets are on the very forward hole of the
> rear seat panels, on the sidewalls. There are holes that are
completely
> inaccessible by rivet gun, or pop rivet tool. This photo shows the
> location, a couple inches NorthEast of the rivet set.
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505250013.html
> Short of drilling a hole through my seat bracket, which is NOT
> worth it, I can't find a way to fill that hole. The ones on the
> other side of the floor panel by the tunnel could be popped in
> from the tunnel side I suppose, but you'd have an ugle rivet
> sticking into the seating area. For now I'm just going to leave
> them empty. If I got desperate, I'd GLUE in a rivet for looks...
> then everyone would think I figured out the secret. :)
>
> Tim
>
>
====================================
====================================
Message 15
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| Subject: | Tubing Bender And Flare Tools |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
About time for me to order up the tube bender and flare tools. Just
wanted to ask about the tools size before I did.
For the bender, which size will cover everything? Small (1/8", 3/16",
1/4" O.D. Tubing 9/16" Bend radius) or Large (1/4" 5/16", 3/8" O.D.
Tubing 1" Bend radius)?
Will a 37 degree flair tool that handles 1/8" 3/16" 1/4" 5/16" 3/8"
7/16" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" OD do the trick for everything?
Thanks...
Sean #40303 (wing spar countersink-itis)
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Tubing Bender And Flare Tools |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
You need a bender that will do 1/4" and 3/8", flair tool needs to handle
the same.
Don't know about others, but I used a bit more 3/8" tubing than came
with the kit. It is fairly unforgiving stuff but fortunately relatively
inexpensive. You might consider adding some extra to your next order
from Van's to have on hand when you tackle the fuel line stuff.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
About time for me to order up the tube bender and flare tools. Just
wanted to ask about the tools size before I did.
For the bender, which size will cover everything? Small (1/8", 3/16",
1/4" O.D. Tubing 9/16" Bend radius) or Large (1/4" 5/16", 3/8" O.D.
Tubing 1" Bend radius)?
Will a 37 degree flair tool that handles 1/8" 3/16" 1/4" 5/16" 3/8"
7/16" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" OD do the trick for everything?
Thanks...
Sean #40303 (wing spar countersink-itis)
Message 17
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| Subject: | The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
Here is a link to the gold primer.
http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/p-141.pdf
I simply cleaned the surface with lacquer thinner and then sprayed two
thin coats of this primer. In direct sunlight on a light windy day, it
dries in 5 minutes.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Ray, where did you purchase your 'gold primer' it looks like alodine.
I've
searched the PPG website for Armour / Armor Grip and came up empty, do
you
have a product number or some other link? Also how did you do the
application? Spray?
thanks
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
Give me a call any time on my Cell. 913) 226-0106
I'm slow build all the way. It has taken me 3 months and 300
hours to get the fuse to the Quick Build stage. I figure that means I
made $5350/300 or $17.83 an hour. The primer is PPG Armor Grip and I
love the way it looks and applies. It sticks very well to just a clean
alcad surface.
I currently have 890 hours in on my project. I'm thinking I am
almost at the half way point. I am expecting to be flying in 2000 hours
with everything painted and completed. I am targeting fall of 06 for
first flight, how about you?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Wow, we really are at the same exact spot! Hey, can you send your
photos again? The first one came out all screwy.
Very pretty inside with that gold primer. I wish I'd have gone
that route on the fuselage I think. All of my green will be hidden
though, and at least it'll be easy to see stuff leaking on it.
You're QB or slow build? Must be quick to be that far, huh?
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> Tim, you and I seem to be at the same sport. I ended up doing
> the same thing for the nutplates on the baggage door jam. I drilled
the
> rivet hole to come out the back and then enlarged this hole to 1/4"
and
> back riveted it using a hammer and punch on a backing plate.
> As for the most forward rivet on the rear side seat pans, I also
> left this rivet out. I called Van's about it and explain to Bruce
there
> is no way to get this rivet because you can't get to either side of
the
> rivet with the gun. He went on to say you can use a pop rivet at a 15
> degree angle, but I said it would be more like a 70 degree angle and
it
> wouldn't work. If you look at the drawing that show the rear floor
pan,
> you will notice they don't even show this hole exists, so I wonder if
> this was added later not thinking about how it would be set.
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250 Floor Pans all rivet on.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2005 11:16 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I found 2 "impossible" rivets, and the solution to one of them. QB
> fuse, by the way.
>
> #1 is on the baggage door latch bracket that goes on the fuselage.
> There are 2 nutplates to attach. 2 of those 4 rivets are not
> accessible by squeezer or bucking bar. I did, however,
> find that I have a very small flat squeezer set and I could drill
> a hole and enlarge with a unibit in the flange underneath the
> rivet, and get the squeezer through. I just don't know how else
> you'd do it. Here's a couple of photos.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260017.html
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260016.html
>
>
> The other impossible rivets are on the very forward hole of the
> rear seat panels, on the sidewalls. There are holes that are
completely
> inaccessible by rivet gun, or pop rivet tool. This photo shows the
> location, a couple inches NorthEast of the rivet set.
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505250013.html
> Short of drilling a hole through my seat bracket, which is NOT
> worth it, I can't find a way to fill that hole. The ones on the
> other side of the floor panel by the tunnel could be popped in
> from the tunnel side I suppose, but you'd have an ugle rivet
> sticking into the seating area. For now I'm just going to leave
> them empty. If I got desperate, I'd GLUE in a rivet for looks...
> then everyone would think I figured out the secret. :)
>
> Tim
>
>
====================================
====================================
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Throttle cable bracket |
<42A50195.8030309@MyRV10.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer@verizon.net>
Hey Tim, the throttle bracket( p/n F-10105) should be in your fuselage kit
stuff. It is located on page 41-2 and mounts up against the bottom of the
lower switch panel. It is 9 1/2 inches long. Mark (40016)
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Oregon Aero seats |
I forgot who asked!! I purchased my rear seat cores from Oregon Aero for $578.
That's both seats uncovered. I had all four of my seats covered with fabric by
a local auto/boat shop for $700 and they look pretty good. Mark (40016)
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
FYI,
Aircraft Tool Supply (http://www.aircraft-tool.com) has free shipping on
orders over $75, if I recall. They have the best price on the Parker
Rolo-Flair tool (yes, it is spelled that way). If you're ordering a flaring
tool and a bender, ATS is probably the cheapest bet with that free shipping
deal.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> About time for me to order up the tube bender and flare tools. Just
> wanted to ask about the tools size before I did.
>
> For the bender, which size will cover everything? Small (1/8", 3/16",
> 1/4" O.D. Tubing 9/16" Bend radius) or Large (1/4" 5/16", 3/8" O.D.
> Tubing 1" Bend radius)?
>
> Will a 37 degree flair tool that handles 1/8" 3/16" 1/4" 5/16" 3/8"
> 7/16" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" OD do the trick for everything?
>
> Thanks...
>
> Sean #40303 (wing spar countersink-itis)
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Tubing Bender And Flare Tools |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
You can buy the bender at Lowe's or Home Deposit in the plumbing dept
for around $15.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
FYI,
Aircraft Tool Supply (http://www.aircraft-tool.com) has free shipping on
orders over $75, if I recall. They have the best price on the Parker
Rolo-Flair tool (yes, it is spelled that way). If you're ordering a
flaring
tool and a bender, ATS is probably the cheapest bet with that free
shipping
deal.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> About time for me to order up the tube bender and flare tools. Just
> wanted to ask about the tools size before I did.
>
> For the bender, which size will cover everything? Small (1/8", 3/16",
> 1/4" O.D. Tubing 9/16" Bend radius) or Large (1/4" 5/16", 3/8" O.D.
> Tubing 1" Bend radius)?
>
> Will a 37 degree flair tool that handles 1/8" 3/16" 1/4" 5/16" 3/8"
> 7/16" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" OD do the trick for everything?
>
> Thanks...
>
> Sean #40303 (wing spar countersink-itis)
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Tank Sealant Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
lol....."First test"......
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tank Sealant Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rick <ricksked@earthlink.net>
My 2 cents worth,
I used a digital postal scale I had laying around. I used a paper bowl and calibrated
it with the bowl on it. It weighed .03 oz FWIW. Then using large tongue
depressors I blobled in 1 oz. used a popscicle stick to add the hardner until
the scale read 1.1 oz. (10:1 ratio) This worked perfectly, I had plenty of time
to work with the material, was enough proseal to do what I needed at one time
and I used it all up exactly. I would do this at first until you get good
color recognition then feel free to eyeball it.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oregon Aero seats |
Mark, do you have a picture of your upholstery? Perhaps I can send my
seats to him. Oregon Aero seems to be very pricy.
Thanks, Rob.
On Jun 7, 2005, at 3:39 PM, Mark Chamberlain wrote:
> I forgot who asked!! I purchased my rear seat cores from Oregon Aero
> for $578. That's both seats uncovered. I had all four of my seats
> covered with fabric by a local auto/boat shop for $700 and they look
> pretty good. Mark (40016)
Message 25
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| Subject: | Oregon Aero seats |
In the quest for seat covers, has anyone made some detailed measurements of the
front seats (or rears, for that matter?)
Hmm. There's a minimum-security prison near me that does upholstery in the prison
workshop for good rates . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oregon Aero seats
Mark, do you have a picture of your upholstery? Perhaps I can send my seats to
him. Oregon Aero seems to be very pricy.
Thanks, Rob.
On Jun 7, 2005, at 3:39 PM, Mark Chamberlain wrote:
I forgot who asked!! I purchased my rear seat cores from Oregon Aero for $578.
That's both seats uncovered. I had all four of my seats covered with fabric by
a local auto/boat shop for $700 and they look pretty good. Mark (40016)
Message 26
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|
So, the recent conversation on alodining skins has me wondering about
something else. When painting aircraft most paint shops will acid wash,
alodine, and then go through the painting steps. This brings up the
questions:
1) How do they keep acid and alodine out of cracks and crevices
2) How can they make sure they get every bit of acid and alodine off
3) What kind of damage would either do if wicked inside of a skin for
instance
4) How do they capture and dispose of the alodine.
Also, I have been considering filling my rivet lines with filler for
that nice flush appearance. I know it's not necessary, and I can hear
some people gasping at this moment, but, ignoring any weight issues from
the filler, it would look slick and I know other people have done it.
So ignoring all of the usual "why would you do that" stuff, does anyone
have any real reasons that someone shouldn't? I know it would be much
more difficult to remove a skin if necessary, but that would suck either
way.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352
Elevators
Message 27
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| Subject: | QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (540 Kit) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
Rob,
I asked the same thing of Superior at Sun-n-Fun and got the same answer.
The difference is the 540 kit is actually from Lycoming, not from Superior.
Might all be bogus rumor, but it sounds pretty good according to Barrett and
Aerosport.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
Marcus,
I heard the same thing at Sun/Fun about Superior (from Mattituck guys).
I wonder if this is all rumors. I have a contact at Superior and
talked to him (man to Man). He said that there are no plans at this
time and we should not plan our project in anticipation of a Superior
engine.
I have left a message with Oliver at Lycoming to find out for sure.
Will let everyone know about my findings.
Rob.
On Jun 6, 2005, at 7:34 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> Rob,
> I haven't talked to Lycoming, but I did speak to the folks at
> Aerosport
> and they were very confident the engine would be out by Oshkosh,
> possibly
> even mid Jul. I also spoke to Allen at Barrett Performance Engines
> (bpaengines.com) and he said the same thing, I don't know their price
> though. Apparently there are only a handful of places that will be
> authorized to assemble the engine. The engine will have a data plate
> from
> the assembling company in lieu of Lycoming, otherwise all new parts.
>
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 5:50 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>
> Marcus, I tried talking to Lycoming about the "experimental Engine"
> that I noticed on this list. The person that can answer the question
> is out until July 6th (perhaps he means June 6th). Have you actually
> talked to them. Is a new Experimental engine for real?
>
> Thanks, Rob.
>
> On Jun 6, 2005, at 5:35 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
>> <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Tim,
>> Thanks again for the words. I wouldn't kick myself too hard about
>> the
>> AeroSport engine you bought though. They said the price hadn't been
>> pinned
>> down yet, but would most likely be right between the current overhaul
>> price
>> and Van's new price - ie about $35,000.
>>
>> Marcus
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 7:32 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>> Marcus,
>>
>> I've not really done any research into the fuel pumps, so I
>> can't tell you if I got a good one, or not. But, if you
>> turn to the pages in the plans that have fuel lines on them,
>> they'll point out the Van's pump. ES Airflow Fuel Pump,
>> ES Airflow Fuel Filter, and they have the Fuel Totalizer there
>> as well, but you usually get that with your EIS I'm told.
>> I verified that yes, in my case with the Chelton, I'd get it
>> with my Grand Rapids EIS....so I'm currently working to get
>> that piece delivered a.s.a.p. so I'm not held up for too
>> long in running my fuel lines. That kind of thing will really
>> hold you back. In fact, delivery of avionics in general will
>> likely run 4-8 weeks in some cases, so you may as well pin down
>> which EIS you're going to use and start buying....or if nothing
>> else, just purchase the fuel flow transducer and don't buy
>> it with the EIS. Either way, like I mentioned, it's actually
>> time to start finalizing at least some things in regards to
>> your panel....this stuff sneaks up on you.
>>
>> Oh, and the engine choice....another one to probably get
>> hammered out too. If you don't, then some of these fuel
>> components might have to be changed. You don't use the
>> same fuel valve with the Continental. I'd just decide
>> and commit.
>>
>> I just KNEW that the timing was such that I was going to be
>> short-sold on my engine. ;) Here you're telling me that
>> even AeroSport plans to have the new ECI Kit shortly after
>> OSH. Heck, I'll be picking up my probably more expensive
>> AeroSport engine AT OSH! (for those who are going, my engine
>> is their IO-540 demo engine this year). Not only that, but
>> I heard from someone else that Lycoming themselves are now
>> about to launch 4 new engines that are for Homebuilts only,
>> to get into this non-certified market....including an IO-540
>> model, that will be at a lower cost. If Van's can sell the
>> current Lycoming Factory IO-540 for around $39K, I wonder
>> how much this experimental version will save. I bet it'll
>> save a good couple thousand. I'll just be hoping that
>> y'all have to pay top dollar for them there engines so that
>> I don't feel so hosed buy buying my "rebuilt" from
>> Aerosport. <G> ;)
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>
>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
>>> <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>> Awesome response, thanks for all the information and ideas. You
>>> do
>> bring
>>> up another question in a follow up post though. What kind of fuel
>>> pump
>> are
>>> you using? I had an IO-540 on my Skybolt and remember needing a high
>>> pressure pump vs the MUCH cheaper Facet pump for the carbureted
>>> engines.
>> I
>>> am leaning toward an IO-540 for this as well (AeroSport plans to have
>>> the
>>> new kit Lycoming shortly after Oshkosh this year).
>>>
>>> Thanks again,
>>> Marcus
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 9:50 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>
>>> Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions
>>> just
>>> don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
>>> keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
>>> instructions. My advice is this:
>>>
>>> Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions
>>> page
>>> by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your
>>> fuselage,
>>> even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
>>> with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
>>> notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
>>> through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
>>> can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
>>> You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
>>> with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
>>> might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
>>> other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled
>>> through
>>> his spar.
>>>
>>> It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
>>> a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
>>> things done, it'll start to flow again.
>>>
>>> You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
>>> right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
>>> I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
>>> rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
>>> whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
>>> hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
>>> of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
>>> run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
>>>
>>> Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
>>> you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
>>> plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
>>> 3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
>>> will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
>>> need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
>>> I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
>>> rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
>>>
>>> Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
>>> 7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
>>> brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
>>> .311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
>>>
>>> It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
>>> to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
>>> If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
>>> safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
>>> belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
>>> for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
>>> them there for drilling and fitting.
>>>
>>> As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
>>> and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
>>> I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
>>> area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
>>> got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
>>> with a little help if needed.
>>>
>>> It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
>>> panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
>>> to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
>>> and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
>>> I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
>>> continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
>>> to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
>>> that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
>>> it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
>>> this summer.
>>>
>>> I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
>>> photos of how I got started.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>> Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
>>>> <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>>
>>>> I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it
>>>> in the
>>>> archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>>>>
>>>> I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there
>>>> aren't
>>>> separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already
>>>> been done
>>>> and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going
>>>
>>> through
>>>
>>>> the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at
>>>> the
>>>> beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros
>>>> or cons
>>>> for either option?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Marcus
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Tubing Bender And Flare Tools |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Check the flare. I think it will be the wrong deg. Flare. I can't
remember the flare deg but 1 is 37 deg and one is 45 deg and they are
not interchangeable. For instance I have a flare tool for automotive
flares for brake lines and it will not work for aviation. Randy
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
--> <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
You can buy the bender at Lowe's or Home Deposit in the plumbing dept
for around $15.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
FYI,
Aircraft Tool Supply (http://www.aircraft-tool.com) has free shipping on
orders over $75, if I recall. They have the best price on the Parker
Rolo-Flair tool (yes, it is spelled that way). If you're ordering a
flaring
tool and a bender, ATS is probably the cheapest bet with that free
shipping
deal.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> About time for me to order up the tube bender and flare tools. Just
> wanted to ask about the tools size before I did.
>
> For the bender, which size will cover everything? Small (1/8", 3/16",
> 1/4" O.D. Tubing 9/16" Bend radius) or Large (1/4" 5/16", 3/8" O.D.
> Tubing 1" Bend radius)?
>
> Will a 37 degree flair tool that handles 1/8" 3/16" 1/4" 5/16" 3/8"
> 7/16" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" OD do the trick for everything?
>
> Thanks...
>
> Sean #40303 (wing spar countersink-itis)
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Fuel tank countersink ? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
When countersinking the fuel tank skin at the baffle flange, how much
deeper, if any, did you go to allow for the sealant? There's not much
material thickness there to play with so I don't want to overdo it......john
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools |
"rocket-list" <rocket-list@matronics.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
The "normal/standard" flare of a plumbing tool is 45 degrees. AN fittings
are "aviation/racing" flare and are 37 degrees. They are NOT
interchangeable. Have never seen a 37 degree flaring tool or fittings at
Lowes, Home Deport, Ace, etc. I was only a plumbing/air conditioning
contractor for 25 years & have not been in every hardware store in the
country. HOWEVER if the flaring tool does not specifically state it's
aviation, AN, 37 degree it probably is not. Also have not seen 37 degree
"cheapo" flaring tools. Lots of low costs 45 degree units. In this case
"Ya'll get what you pay for". Remember when you bend tubing you harden it.
The outside of the bend will create a "hard" spot. Since most tubing is
shipped in a coil, plan ahead and do not straighten out tubing before
bending. We have & used tubing benders but most of the tubing on N561FS was
bent bare handed by me, hey with 25+ years experience ya do get pretty good
with your hands. This is another place where you DO NOT assemble
fittings/tubing under any stress. Bend it to perfectly fit. KABONG 8*)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> Check the flare. I think it will be the wrong deg. Flare. I can't
> remember the flare deg but 1 is 37 deg and one is 45 deg and they are
> not interchangeable. For instance I have a flare tool for automotive
> flares for brake lines and it will not work for aviation. Randy
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Tank Sealant Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
I also used a very expensive zip lock bag with a tiny portion of the corner
cut out for an applicator. Cost $.oo3 per bag. L a t e x Gloves , were
more important than anything else. Stuff is sticky and gloves can be bought
by the 100. I were two at a time and easier to keep clean that way.
Bob K
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Oregon Aero seats |
I also have a prison near by that does upolstery. I figured I would get them to
do the coverings. And they only charge a little more than materials for the
whole job. I've been told that you can offer a case of cokes or such and get
dynomite work from them...Sounds good to me!!!!
barry Chapman
Student
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 4:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oregon Aero seats
In the quest for seat covers, has anyone made some detailed measurements of the
front seats (or rears, for that matter?)
Hmm. There's a minimum-security prison near me that does upholstery in the prison
workshop for good rates . . .
TDT
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Oregon Aero seats |
Or a cake with a file in it . . .
TDT
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Barry Chapman
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oregon Aero seats
I also have a prison near by that does upolstery. I figured I would get them to
do the coverings. And they only charge a little more than materials for the
whole job. I've been told that you can offer a case of cokes or such and get
dynomite work from them...Sounds good to me!!!!
barry Chapman
Student
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend <mailto:Tdawson@avidyne.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 4:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oregon Aero seats
In the quest for seat covers, has anyone made some detailed measurements
of the front seats (or rears, for that matter?)
Hmm. There's a minimum-security prison near me that does upholstery in
the prison workshop for good rates . . .
TDT
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Shop is set up, empcone inventoried, I finally got started making airplane
parts. Seems like I need to read twice drill once!. I mistook the spar
flanges for the spar web and drilled all of the holes that couple the spar
caps vs 1014L&R to VS 1003 with 1/8 holes. it seems they should have been
drilled #40!
Can I just put AN4 rivets in these and continue or do I need to get new
parts from Vans and do it again????
Deems Davis\empcone\#406
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank countersink ? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
How much deeper? Slightly. Basically, take a rivet, and set up your
microstop so that the rivet sits a tad bit beneath the surface of the skin.
Just a very slight over-countersink will do it.
One way to try to approximate it more accurately would be to form a regular
dimple in some .032" thick scrap (or however thick the RV-10 tank skin
is...I'm not there yet), but use your fuel tank dimple dies. Then see how
the rivet sits in that dimple. Just mimic that depth with your microstop
and countersink cutter.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> When countersinking the fuel tank skin at the baffle flange, how much
> deeper, if any, did you go to allow for the sealant? There's not much
> material thickness there to play with so I don't want to overdo
it......john
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
>
Message 36
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|
<001201c56bd2$639fd310$6401a8c0@tiger.virtualcorp.net>
| Subject: | Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Kirkland" <jskirkland@webpipe.net>
NAS1097AD4-5. Called "oops" rivets. Sold by Vans. You'll need 0.03 lb of
them.
John Kirkland
#40333
Deems Davis writes:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> Shop is set up, empcone inventoried, I finally got started making airplane
> parts. Seems like I need to read twice drill once!. I mistook the spar
> flanges for the spar web and drilled all of the holes that couple the spar
> caps vs 1014L&R to VS 1003 with 1/8 holes. it seems they should have been
> drilled #40!
> Can I just put AN4 rivets in these and continue or do I need to get new
> parts from Vans and do it again????
>
> Deems Davis\empcone\#406
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
I did about the same thing. I called Van's , they said
"just use the AN4 rivets and keep building." You look
at my VS and looks like it was supposed to be that
way.
Steve 40212 wings
--- Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Deems Davis"
> <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>
> Shop is set up, empcone inventoried, I finally got
> started making airplane
> parts. Seems like I need to read twice drill once!.
> I mistook the spar
> flanges for the spar web and drilled all of the
> holes that couple the spar
> caps vs 1014L&R to VS 1003 with 1/8 holes. it seems
> they should have been
> drilled #40!
> Can I just put AN4 rivets in these and continue or
> do I need to get new
> parts from Vans and do it again????
>
> Deems Davis\empcone\#406
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
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Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Funny how we seem to start that way....I messed up my spar cap on one
side too by not clamping it tight enough when I drilled. Your problem
shouldn't cause you to worry and get new parts though.
As John said, get the Ooops rivets...a small supply of various sizes.
I wouldn't just stop at the -5's that John mentioned unless you want to
cut them down.
Oops Rivets
NAS1097AD4-3.5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.20
NAS1097AD4-4 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.00
NAS1097AD4-5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $15.00
NAS1097AD4-6 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.00
You don't need more than a small quanity of each, maybe a couple
bucks worth....like .05 or .10 lbs would more than do it.
While you're at it, you may want to order very small quantities
of extra rivets in various sizes as well. Cheap insurance on not
running out later.
AN426AD3-3, 3.5, 4, 5, 6
AN426AD4-4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
AN470AD4-4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
AN470AD3-4, 5, 6
You only use oops rivets when you have a flush rivet, and don't
want to enlarge the dimple or countersink. If it's a round
head rivet, you would just go up to the next size or use a
bolt, nut, and washer.
Other rivets to pick up a quantity of: (Maybe 50-100 of the
cheap ones, or at least a couple dozen of all)
LP4-3
CS4-4
MK319-BS
Also, I just ordered some AD-62-BS to have on hand, because
they're a little oversized in case I screw up a LP4-3 hole
(like I recently did)
Perhaps a dozen of these might be nice too: MSP-42
They're carbon steel rivets used in things like your
elevator control tubes.
You'll do well to keep some extras of hardware around. Van's
provides ONLY as much as you need, and sometimes by mistake,
not even that much. So keep some spares on hand and you won't
get slowed down. I just went through and got some various
nuts, bolts, washers, screws, and nutplates in the last week
because I was tired of coming up short all the time. I had
spares before, but I beefed up my spares a bit to accomodate
larger shortages. Cheap insurance.
Well, now that you're started, and you've already made a good
mistake, you can apply for your honorary membership in the
RV10 mistake and screwup club. I got a very good start when
I had 2 rudder skins stuck together and didn't notice that
when I was dimpling one with the squeezer that I punched a
row of holes through the other sheet. Hopefully you won't
get too many of those....maybe we'll have to start handing out
patches or hats to the ones with the larges boo boo's as
consolation gifts. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
John Kirkland wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Kirkland" <jskirkland@webpipe.net>
>
> NAS1097AD4-5. Called "oops" rivets. Sold by Vans. You'll need 0.03 lb of
> them.
> John Kirkland
> #40333
> Deems Davis writes:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
>> Shop is set up, empcone inventoried, I finally got started making
>> airplane
>> parts. Seems like I need to read twice drill once!. I mistook the spar
>> flanges for the spar web and drilled all of the holes that couple the
>> spar
>> caps vs 1014L&R to VS 1003 with 1/8 holes. it seems they should have been
>> drilled #40!
>> Can I just put AN4 rivets in these and continue or do I need to get new
>> parts from Vans and do it again????
>> Deems Davis\empcone\#406
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - THANKS |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Thanks to all who responded, This list is definitely a major source of help
and knowledge. Although, I'll comitt to being more diligent, I expect that
notwithstanding, I'll be back picking your brains again.
Thanks for a peaceful night's sleep!
Do Not Archive
Deems
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Funny how we seem to start that way....I messed up my spar cap on one
> side too by not clamping it tight enough when I drilled. Your problem
> shouldn't cause you to worry and get new parts though.
>
> As John said, get the Ooops rivets...a small supply of various sizes.
> I wouldn't just stop at the -5's that John mentioned unless you want to
> cut them down.
>
> Oops Rivets
> NAS1097AD4-3.5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.20
> NAS1097AD4-4 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.00
> NAS1097AD4-5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $15.00
> NAS1097AD4-6 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.00
>
> You don't need more than a small quanity of each, maybe a couple
> bucks worth....like .05 or .10 lbs would more than do it.
>
> While you're at it, you may want to order very small quantities
> of extra rivets in various sizes as well. Cheap insurance on not
> running out later.
>
> AN426AD3-3, 3.5, 4, 5, 6
> AN426AD4-4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
> AN470AD4-4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
> AN470AD3-4, 5, 6
>
> You only use oops rivets when you have a flush rivet, and don't
> want to enlarge the dimple or countersink. If it's a round
> head rivet, you would just go up to the next size or use a
> bolt, nut, and washer.
>
> Other rivets to pick up a quantity of: (Maybe 50-100 of the
> cheap ones, or at least a couple dozen of all)
> LP4-3
> CS4-4
> MK319-BS
>
> Also, I just ordered some AD-62-BS to have on hand, because
> they're a little oversized in case I screw up a LP4-3 hole
> (like I recently did)
>
> Perhaps a dozen of these might be nice too: MSP-42
> They're carbon steel rivets used in things like your
> elevator control tubes.
>
> You'll do well to keep some extras of hardware around. Van's
> provides ONLY as much as you need, and sometimes by mistake,
> not even that much. So keep some spares on hand and you won't
> get slowed down. I just went through and got some various
> nuts, bolts, washers, screws, and nutplates in the last week
> because I was tired of coming up short all the time. I had
> spares before, but I beefed up my spares a bit to accomodate
> larger shortages. Cheap insurance.
>
> Well, now that you're started, and you've already made a good
> mistake, you can apply for your honorary membership in the
> RV10 mistake and screwup club. I got a very good start when
> I had 2 rudder skins stuck together and didn't notice that
> when I was dimpling one with the squeezer that I punched a
> row of holes through the other sheet. Hopefully you won't
> get too many of those....maybe we'll have to start handing out
> patches or hats to the ones with the larges boo boo's as
> consolation gifts. ;)
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
>
> John Kirkland wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Kirkland"
<jskirkland@webpipe.net>
> >
> > NAS1097AD4-5. Called "oops" rivets. Sold by Vans. You'll need 0.03 lb of
> > them.
> > John Kirkland
> > #40333
> > Deems Davis writes:
> >
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
> >> Shop is set up, empcone inventoried, I finally got started making
> >> airplane
> >> parts. Seems like I need to read twice drill once!. I mistook the spar
> >> flanges for the spar web and drilled all of the holes that couple the
> >> spar
> >> caps vs 1014L&R to VS 1003 with 1/8 holes. it seems they should have
been
> >> drilled #40!
> >> Can I just put AN4 rivets in these and continue or do I need to get new
> >> parts from Vans and do it again????
> >> Deems Davis\empcone\#406
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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