Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:27 AM - Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (540 Kit) (Rob Kermanj)
2. 05:54 AM - Re: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools (Doerr, Ray R [NTK])
3. 06:21 AM - Re: Fuel tank countersink ? ()
4. 06:23 AM - Re: Painting (Lloyd, Daniel R.)
5. 06:54 AM - Re: Fuel tank countersink ? (John Hasbrouck)
6. 06:58 AM - Re: Paint (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
7. 07:01 AM - Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help (Darton Steve)
8. 07:36 AM - Re: Paint (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
9. 07:38 AM - How many 10's at Osh. (Randy's Abros mail)
10. 08:01 AM - Re: Paint (Tim Olson)
11. 08:22 AM - Re: How many 10's at Osh. (Jesse Saint)
12. 09:30 AM - Re: Paint (Mark)
13. 09:31 AM - Re: Paint (Mark)
14. 09:32 AM - Re: RV-List: The engine breather (JOHN STARN)
15. 10:26 AM - Re: Paint (John W. Cox)
16. 11:14 AM - Re: Paint (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
17. 12:02 PM - Re: Paint (Dj Merrill)
18. 12:57 PM - Re: Paint (Tim Olson)
19. 01:09 PM - N-Number Sizing (Tim Olson)
20. 01:34 PM - Re: N-Number Sizing (Larry)
21. 01:39 PM - Re: Paint (William Curtis)
22. 01:39 PM - Re: N-Number Sizing (Patrick Thyssen)
23. 01:58 PM - Re: N-Number Sizing (linn walters)
24. 02:06 PM - Re: Re: Paint (Scott Schmidt)
25. 02:43 PM - Re: Re: Paint (Tim Olson)
26. 02:47 PM - Re: Re: Paint (Tim Dawson-Townsend)
27. 02:51 PM - Re: Re: Paint (me)
28. 02:53 PM - Re: Re: Paint ()
29. 02:53 PM - Re: N-Number Sizing (Randy DeBauw)
30. 03:15 PM - Re: Re: Paint (Randy DeBauw)
31. 03:28 PM - Re: N-Number Sizing (Wayne @ Engravers.net)
32. 03:29 PM - Re: Paint (Randy DeBauw)
33. 03:36 PM - Re: N-Number Sizing (Jesse Saint)
34. 03:47 PM - Re: N-Number Sizing (Brian Denk)
35. 03:57 PM - Re: Paint (Tim Olson)
36. 04:12 PM - Re: Paint (Randy DeBauw)
37. 04:47 PM - Re: Dent in HS skin (Bill Schlatterer)
38. 05:06 PM - Re: Dent in HS skin (Bill Schlatterer)
39. 05:19 PM - Re: N-Number Sizing (Dan Checkoway)
40. 05:46 PM - Re: Re: Paint (John Mcmahon)
41. 08:52 PM - Re: N-Number Sizing (William Curtis)
42. 10:14 PM - Re: Paint (John W. Cox)
43. 10:38 PM - Re: Re: Paint (John W. Cox)
44. 10:44 PM - Re: Re: Paint (owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com)
45. 10:46 PM - Re: Re: Paint (John W. Cox)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (540 Kit) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
Thanks for you reply marcus. i will follow up with Lycoming.
Rob.
On Jun 7, 2005, at 6:02 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> Rob,
> I asked the same thing of Superior at Sun-n-Fun and got the same
> answer.
> The difference is the 540 kit is actually from Lycoming, not from
> Superior.
> Might all be bogus rumor, but it sounds pretty good according to
> Barrett and
> Aerosport.
>
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 4:32 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>
> Marcus,
>
> I heard the same thing at Sun/Fun about Superior (from Mattituck guys).
> I wonder if this is all rumors. I have a contact at Superior and
> talked to him (man to Man). He said that there are no plans at this
> time and we should not plan our project in anticipation of a Superior
> engine.
>
> I have left a message with Oliver at Lycoming to find out for sure.
> Will let everyone know about my findings.
>
> Rob.
>
> On Jun 6, 2005, at 7:34 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
>> <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Rob,
>> I haven't talked to Lycoming, but I did speak to the folks at
>> Aerosport
>> and they were very confident the engine would be out by Oshkosh,
>> possibly
>> even mid Jul. I also spoke to Allen at Barrett Performance Engines
>> (bpaengines.com) and he said the same thing, I don't know their price
>> though. Apparently there are only a handful of places that will be
>> authorized to assemble the engine. The engine will have a data plate
>> from
>> the assembling company in lieu of Lycoming, otherwise all new parts.
>>
>> Marcus
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
>> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 5:50 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj <rv10es@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Marcus, I tried talking to Lycoming about the "experimental Engine"
>> that I noticed on this list. The person that can answer the question
>> is out until July 6th (perhaps he means June 6th). Have you actually
>> talked to them. Is a new Experimental engine for real?
>>
>> Thanks, Rob.
>>
>> On Jun 6, 2005, at 5:35 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
>>> <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>> Thanks again for the words. I wouldn't kick myself too hard about
>>> the
>>> AeroSport engine you bought though. They said the price hadn't been
>>> pinned
>>> down yet, but would most likely be right between the current overhaul
>>> price
>>> and Van's new price - ie about $35,000.
>>>
>>> Marcus
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 7:32 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>
>>> Marcus,
>>>
>>> I've not really done any research into the fuel pumps, so I
>>> can't tell you if I got a good one, or not. But, if you
>>> turn to the pages in the plans that have fuel lines on them,
>>> they'll point out the Van's pump. ES Airflow Fuel Pump,
>>> ES Airflow Fuel Filter, and they have the Fuel Totalizer there
>>> as well, but you usually get that with your EIS I'm told.
>>> I verified that yes, in my case with the Chelton, I'd get it
>>> with my Grand Rapids EIS....so I'm currently working to get
>>> that piece delivered a.s.a.p. so I'm not held up for too
>>> long in running my fuel lines. That kind of thing will really
>>> hold you back. In fact, delivery of avionics in general will
>>> likely run 4-8 weeks in some cases, so you may as well pin down
>>> which EIS you're going to use and start buying....or if nothing
>>> else, just purchase the fuel flow transducer and don't buy
>>> it with the EIS. Either way, like I mentioned, it's actually
>>> time to start finalizing at least some things in regards to
>>> your panel....this stuff sneaks up on you.
>>>
>>> Oh, and the engine choice....another one to probably get
>>> hammered out too. If you don't, then some of these fuel
>>> components might have to be changed. You don't use the
>>> same fuel valve with the Continental. I'd just decide
>>> and commit.
>>>
>>> I just KNEW that the timing was such that I was going to be
>>> short-sold on my engine. ;) Here you're telling me that
>>> even AeroSport plans to have the new ECI Kit shortly after
>>> OSH. Heck, I'll be picking up my probably more expensive
>>> AeroSport engine AT OSH! (for those who are going, my engine
>>> is their IO-540 demo engine this year). Not only that, but
>>> I heard from someone else that Lycoming themselves are now
>>> about to launch 4 new engines that are for Homebuilts only,
>>> to get into this non-certified market....including an IO-540
>>> model, that will be at a lower cost. If Van's can sell the
>>> current Lycoming Factory IO-540 for around $39K, I wonder
>>> how much this experimental version will save. I bet it'll
>>> save a good couple thousand. I'll just be hoping that
>>> y'all have to pay top dollar for them there engines so that
>>> I don't feel so hosed buy buying my "rebuilt" from
>>> Aerosport. <G> ;)
>>>
>>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>> Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
>>>> <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>>
>>>> Tim,
>>>> Awesome response, thanks for all the information and ideas. You
>>>> do
>>> bring
>>>> up another question in a follow up post though. What kind of fuel
>>>> pump
>>> are
>>>> you using? I had an IO-540 on my Skybolt and remember needing a
>>>> high
>>>> pressure pump vs the MUCH cheaper Facet pump for the carbureted
>>>> engines.
>>> I
>>>> am leaning toward an IO-540 for this as well (AeroSport plans to
>>>> have
>>>> the
>>>> new kit Lycoming shortly after Oshkosh this year).
>>>>
>>>> Thanks again,
>>>> Marcus
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>>> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 9:50 PM
>>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
>>>>
>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>>>
>>>> Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions
>>>> just
>>>> don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
>>>> keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
>>>> instructions. My advice is this:
>>>>
>>>> Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions
>>>> page
>>>> by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your
>>>> fuselage,
>>>> even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
>>>> with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
>>>> notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
>>>> through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
>>>> can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
>>>> You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a
>>>> hole
>>>> with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
>>>> might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
>>>> other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled
>>>> through
>>>> his spar.
>>>>
>>>> It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
>>>> a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
>>>> things done, it'll start to flow again.
>>>>
>>>> You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
>>>> right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
>>>> I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
>>>> rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
>>>> whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
>>>> hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
>>>> of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
>>>> run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
>>>>
>>>> Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
>>>> you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
>>>> plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
>>>> 3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
>>>> will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
>>>> need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
>>>> I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
>>>> rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2"
>>>> everywhere.
>>>>
>>>> Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
>>>> 7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
>>>> brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
>>>> .311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
>>>>
>>>> It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
>>>> to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
>>>> If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
>>>> safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
>>>> belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
>>>> for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
>>>> them there for drilling and fitting.
>>>>
>>>> As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
>>>> and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
>>>> I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
>>>> area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
>>>> got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
>>>> with a little help if needed.
>>>>
>>>> It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
>>>> panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
>>>> to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
>>>> and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
>>>> I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
>>>> continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
>>>> to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
>>>> that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
>>>> it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
>>>> this summer.
>>>>
>>>> I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
>>>> photos of how I got started.
>>>>
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>>> Current project: Fuselage
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
>>>>> <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>>>>
>>>>> I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it
>>>>> in the
>>>>> archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>>>>>
>>>>> I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there
>>>>> aren't
>>>>> separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already
>>>>> been done
>>>>> and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering
>>>>> going
>>>>
>>>> through
>>>>
>>>>> the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at
>>>>> the
>>>>> beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros
>>>>> or cons
>>>>> for either option?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Marcus
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Tubing Bender And Flare Tools |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
To clarify, I was not talking about the flaring tool, only the tubing
bender. The tube bender is available at Lowe's/Home Depot for around
$15. And your right, aviation flaring tools are a different degree than
auto.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Check the flare. I think it will be the wrong deg. Flare. I can't
remember the flare deg but 1 is 37 deg and one is 45 deg and they are
not interchangeable. For instance I have a flare tool for automotive
flares for brake lines and it will not work for aviation. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
--> <Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com>
You can buy the bender at Lowe's or Home Deposit in the plumbing dept
for around $15.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr@mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
FYI,
Aircraft Tool Supply (http://www.aircraft-tool.com) has free shipping on
orders over $75, if I recall. They have the best price on the Parker
Rolo-Flair tool (yes, it is spelled that way). If you're ordering a
flaring
tool and a bender, ATS is probably the cheapest bet with that free
shipping
deal.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> About time for me to order up the tube bender and flare tools. Just
> wanted to ask about the tools size before I did.
>
> For the bender, which size will cover everything? Small (1/8", 3/16",
> 1/4" O.D. Tubing 9/16" Bend radius) or Large (1/4" 5/16", 3/8" O.D.
> Tubing 1" Bend radius)?
>
> Will a 37 degree flair tool that handles 1/8" 3/16" 1/4" 5/16" 3/8"
> 7/16" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" OD do the trick for everything?
>
> Thanks...
>
> Sean #40303 (wing spar countersink-itis)
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank countersink ? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: <ricksked@earthlink.net>
John,
Not much more, the baffle pushes most of the proseal down into the tank when
you slide it into place. I left my countersinks just a reflection line below
the surface and it worked fine.
Rick S.
4015
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> When countersinking the fuel tank skin at the baffle flange, how much
> deeper, if any, did you go to allow for the sealant? There's not much
> material thickness there to play with so I don't want to overdo
> it......john
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
>
>
Message 4
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|
I thought about this too, finishing the rivet lines, and talked with
several fellow RV builders, and also an AP at the local FBO. All
opinions are it looks good if done correctly, but does allow during
inspection for you to see smoking rivets IE rivets that are working and
require attention, so I decided against doing it.
YMMV
Dan 40269
Do Not Archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RV10-List: Painting
So, the recent conversation on alodining skins has me wondering about
something else. When painting aircraft most paint shops will acid wash,
alodine, and then go through the painting steps. This brings up the
questions:
1) How do they keep acid and alodine out of cracks and crevices
2) How can they make sure they get every bit of acid and alodine off
3) What kind of damage would either do if wicked inside of a skin for
instance
4) How do they capture and dispose of the alodine.
Also, I have been considering filling my rivet lines with filler for
that nice flush appearance. I know it's not necessary, and I can hear
some people gasping at this moment, but, ignoring any weight issues from
the filler, it would look slick and I know other people have done it.
So ignoring all of the usual "why would you do that" stuff, does anyone
have any real reasons that someone shouldn't? I know it would be much
more difficult to remove a skin if necessary, but that would suck either
way.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352
Elevators
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank countersink ? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Rick & Dan,
Thanks for the great advice. Warming up the microstop, getting ready to
go......john
Message 6
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
I think Ed McGinty is winnging the paint contest so far . . .
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?postid=9165
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Rick & Dan,
Thanks for the great advice. Warming up the microstop, getting ready to
go......john
Message 7
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=PRgy8AR39w31fpNsZQKUqzo+rPofWsldulVr2+zAnJ7VAmFbc6PqA6/IpvlMgmbMcPoojtGmu9Gh/PXh8fgJPH4ZqS/VET1Qh40TAzpqdEnMlw2GRy/8tbtGDeI9ervHfEKdPeCj7/QO8L33RCRxcaP7o8rdIMDbtEHMjGzHFvg=
;
| Subject: | Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
As a side note: when I spoke to Scott Risan at Van's
about this subject I asked about using "oops" rivets.
He said they were OK to use on an occasional rivet but
he would not recommend using them for a complete line
of rivets because of the smaller area of the rivet
head.
Steve 40212 Wings
--- Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve
> <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
>
> I did about the same thing. I called Van's , they
> said
> "just use the AN4 rivets and keep building." You
> look
> at my VS and looks like it was supposed to be that
> way.
> Steve 40212 wings
>
> --- Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Deems Davis"
> > <deemsdavis@cox.net>
> >
> > Shop is set up, empcone inventoried, I finally
> got
> > started making airplane
> > parts. Seems like I need to read twice drill
> once!.
> > I mistook the spar
> > flanges for the spar web and drilled all of the
> > holes that couple the spar
> > caps vs 1014L&R to VS 1003 with 1/8 holes. it
> seems
> > they should have been
> > drilled #40!
> > Can I just put AN4 rivets in these and continue or
> > do I need to get new
> > parts from Vans and do it again????
> >
> > Deems Davis\empcone\#406
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
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Message 8
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
I think it is even better looking then the photo shows. The white
doesn't look good in the photo and in person I bet it look fabulous. I
do like the green. I am contemplating doing a Cirrus style stripes.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
--> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
I think Ed McGinty is winnging the paint contest so far . . .
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?postid=9165
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
--> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
Rick & Dan,
Thanks for the great advice. Warming up the microstop, getting
ready to go......john
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | How many 10's at Osh. |
Any guess as to how many 10's will show and how many will be completed but
now make it. I think there will be 5 flying and 4 will make it to Osh.
Randy
Message 10
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
While we're on the subject of paint....
Last night I just stayed up working designs with my wife. I'm hoping
to finalize my paint decision so that I have time to get an embroidery
pattern created, and have a couple of shirts embroidered before OSH...
I find that trying to design and think up paint schemes is agonizing.
Here are some of my 2nd run of ideas.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/index.html
Any comments would be welcomed, and suggestions as to a) alternative
ideas, or b) how easily paintable some of these would be, would be
very appreciated. Feel free to download any of them if you think
you'd like them yourself, and I also have the line drawings there
for you to use when designing your own schemes. I created the
3D view from a photo of the Van's N410RV, and I used the CAD
drawings for the side view.
Once I get the side view picked out and finalized, I will be preparing
the line drawings for the top and front view as well, and then working
it into the 3D view. I found that I couldn't design very well in
3D because you couldn't tell how the paint would look around the
N-Number.
Tim
PS: I got myself a real nice high-end paint gun:
SataJet RP Digital II. It's known as being a spectacular gun, which
I'll need, as I'm sure I'm not a spectacular painter. ;)
For those looking for sprayguns, check out:
http://www.spraygunindustry.com/
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> I think it is even better looking then the photo shows. The white
> doesn't look good in the photo and in person I bet it look fabulous. I
> do like the green. I am contemplating doing a Cirrus style stripes.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
> Dawson-Townsend
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 6:59 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
> --> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> I think Ed McGinty is winnging the paint contest so far . . .
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?postid=9165
>
> TDT
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 9:54 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
> --> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> Rick & Dan,
> Thanks for the great advice. Warming up the microstop, getting
> ready to go......john
>
>
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | How many 10's at Osh. |
I don't know how many other people are close. I didn't know about the first
one flying and the third one flying until they were already in the air. I
am sure there will be 5 flying unless something happens to one of them.
Anybody know the plans of the 1st and 3rd on going to Oshkosh? Anybody know
Doug Peterson's plans? I am sure we all know that Randy will be there. We
sure are hoping to make it.
That firewall forward kit is a bunch of work, but we should be done by the
end of this week. Next week the wings go on and we finishing plumbing and
start wiring (not a wire in the plane yet). Probably 2 weeks of wiring and
then we're on the finishing touches (hopefully flying before the end of the
2 weeks of wiring, as long as we have the engine monitor and basic
instruments hooked up).
N256H #40241
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy's Abros
mail
Subject: RV10-List: How many 10's at Osh.
Any guess as to how many 10's will show and how many will be completed but
now make it. I think there will be 5 flying and 4 will make it to Osh.
Randy
Message 12
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|
Nice Tim! I like #5. I like having the top of the empennage painted in the back
section and I really like the stripe thingy on the vertical stab & rudder.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Olson
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
While we're on the subject of paint....
Last night I just stayed up working designs with my wife. I'm hoping
to finalize my paint decision so that I have time to get an embroidery
pattern created, and have a couple of shirts embroidered before OSH...
I find that trying to design and think up paint schemes is agonizing.
Here are some of my 2nd run of ideas.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/index.html
Any comments would be welcomed, and suggestions as to a) alternative
ideas, or b) how easily paintable some of these would be, would be
very appreciated. Feel free to download any of them if you think
you'd like them yourself, and I also have the line drawings there
for you to use when designing your own schemes. I created the
3D view from a photo of the Van's N410RV, and I used the CAD
drawings for the side view.
Once I get the side view picked out and finalized, I will be preparing
the line drawings for the top and front view as well, and then working
it into the 3D view. I found that I couldn't design very well in
3D because you couldn't tell how the paint would look around the
N-Number.
Tim
PS: I got myself a real nice high-end paint gun:
SataJet RP Digital II. It's known as being a spectacular gun, which
I'll need, as I'm sure I'm not a spectacular painter. ;)
For those looking for sprayguns, check out:
http://www.spraygunindustry.com/
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> I think it is even better looking then the photo shows. The white
> doesn't look good in the photo and in person I bet it look fabulous. I
> do like the green. I am contemplating doing a Cirrus style stripes.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
> Dawson-Townsend
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 6:59 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
> --> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> I think Ed McGinty is winnging the paint contest so far . . .
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?postid9165
>
> TDT
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 9:54 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
> --> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> Rick & Dan,
> Thanks for the great advice. Warming up the microstop, getting
> ready to go......john
>
>
Message 13
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|
By the way, how are you designing these with such precision. I have tried using
a Paint program with the line drawing, and it comes out looking like it was
done with a fat crayon.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Olson
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
While we're on the subject of paint....
Last night I just stayed up working designs with my wife. I'm hoping
to finalize my paint decision so that I have time to get an embroidery
pattern created, and have a couple of shirts embroidered before OSH...
I find that trying to design and think up paint schemes is agonizing.
Here are some of my 2nd run of ideas.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/index.html
Any comments would be welcomed, and suggestions as to a) alternative
ideas, or b) how easily paintable some of these would be, would be
very appreciated. Feel free to download any of them if you think
you'd like them yourself, and I also have the line drawings there
for you to use when designing your own schemes. I created the
3D view from a photo of the Van's N410RV, and I used the CAD
drawings for the side view.
Once I get the side view picked out and finalized, I will be preparing
the line drawings for the top and front view as well, and then working
it into the 3D view. I found that I couldn't design very well in
3D because you couldn't tell how the paint would look around the
N-Number.
Tim
PS: I got myself a real nice high-end paint gun:
SataJet RP Digital II. It's known as being a spectacular gun, which
I'll need, as I'm sure I'm not a spectacular painter. ;)
For those looking for sprayguns, check out:
http://www.spraygunindustry.com/
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> I think it is even better looking then the photo shows. The white
> doesn't look good in the photo and in person I bet it look fabulous. I
> do like the green. I am contemplating doing a Cirrus style stripes.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
> Dawson-Townsend
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 6:59 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
> --> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> I think Ed McGinty is winnging the paint contest so far . . .
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?postid9165
>
> TDT
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 9:54 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
> --> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> Rick & Dan,
> Thanks for the great advice. Warming up the microstop, getting
> ready to go......john
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: The engine breather |
"rv10-list" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
The really "older" cars vented direct, no PCV. no catch bottles, it was a
line that ran down under the car to the road surface from the oil filler
neck. (No, Virginia the really "older" cars didn't have oil inlet caps on
the valve covers. (but some did have "breather" caps there).
Most RV's, Rockets have a forced air intake systems, this IMNSHO, would
produce opposing pressures. Vented air trying to get out, forced intake air
trying to get in. Unless you install a restrictive device to eliminate
backflow.
Use the KISS method, (Keep It Simple Stupid) run the vent line onto or into
the hot exhaust and burn/vaporize the yuk stuff. Build as fancy a connector
as required to keep you happy just make sure you don't reduce the size
and/or restrict the flow.
Why I even know why Harley riders wear black.....The "older" Harleys had a
chain oiler (we called it a spit tube, it was powered by venting gases) that
sprayed oil directly onto a spinning drive chain, which then flung the oil
everywhere & the oil spots didn't show so bad on black things. They also had
"spark retarders" & "kick starters". If you didn't "retard" the spark you
soon found out what the "kick" in kick starter meant.
EE...Gads, I think I just gave away how many years I've been walking
around on the planet. KABONG 8*) Do Not Archive (GBA & GWB)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kenneth Ward <kennethward@peoplepc.com>
>
> Has anyone vented the breather to the intake as is done on cars, thereby
> burning the blowby gasses?
>
> Quantity of gasses shouldn't be enough to disturb the mixture, as most new
> vehicles have the crankcase vent joining induction system downstream of
> mass air flow sensor. Older cars with PCV had it entering just outside the
> air filter. Why isn't this method OK for aircraft?
Message 15
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
For those who have not yet visited Craig's site, there is a lot of
thought that he puts into his trademarked paint designs.
http://www.schemedesigners.com/samples-kits.htm Those who have
contracted for his service have acknowledged that it was worth the value
received for the price paid. Those going to OSK, put him to the task!
You are well beyond the basics on graphic layout. I think they rock.
Sunlit angles, removable panel wear, rock chips on Horizontal LE,
exhaust residue working its way up the side from the bottom of the
empennage and cowl shake at the firewall should be added to the decision
process.
Your forethought and time investment is evident.
I will hammer away some specific comments later tonight to start the
barrage of low-value opinions- here (but then you did ask). Thanks for
sharing.
Your gun is going to pay dividends, even used by you. Tom Conner (Bend)
uses one and he charges $24-28K for award winning plastic aircraft paint
schemes. At KUAO, Craig is booked 12 months out. Tom is booked 18
months.
Metallic paints can find the slightest sand scratch swell (imperfection)
in the topcoat prep. Dark colors on plastic canopies should be avoided.
For two very clear reasons. I agree with Randy that Ed did a great job
(N770BD)of prep and a gorgeous coordinated color combination but I would
caution other about color choice on composite canopies.... more to be
posted later.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
While we're on the subject of paint....
Last night I just stayed up working designs with my wife. I'm hoping
to finalize my paint decision so that I have time to get an embroidery
pattern created, and have a couple of shirts embroidered before OSH...
I find that trying to design and think up paint schemes is agonizing.
Here are some of my 2nd run of ideas.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/index.html
Any comments would be welcomed, and suggestions as to a) alternative
ideas, or b) how easily paintable some of these would be, would be
very appreciated. Feel free to download any of them if you think
you'd like them yourself, and I also have the line drawings there
for you to use when designing your own schemes. I created the
3D view from a photo of the Van's N410RV, and I used the CAD
drawings for the side view.
Once I get the side view picked out and finalized, I will be preparing
the line drawings for the top and front view as well, and then working
it into the 3D view. I found that I couldn't design very well in
3D because you couldn't tell how the paint would look around the
N-Number.
Tim
PS: I got myself a real nice high-end paint gun:
SataJet RP Digital II. It's known as being a spectacular gun, which
I'll need, as I'm sure I'm not a spectacular painter. ;)
For those looking for sprayguns, check out:
http://www.spraygunindustry.com/
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 16
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
I have a friend that has also used Schemedesigners and was very happy.
In fact they did the paint job and found a shop that will do all the
prep work for him (ie. Fill and sand the fiberglass, ect..) I am trying
to find a local place in Salt Lake where I can have mine painted
sometime this summer and then just finish the inside and panel this
fall.
Here are some designs my brother has done for me. He uses Photoshop to
do these.
I'm still not completely bought off on this one but I really like it so
far.
http://www.freedomflyers.com/Paint%20and%20Design.htm
Also, I am going to fill all my rivets. I have already started on the
tail. It takes a lot of time and patience but man are the surfaces nice
and smooth. I figure I will be filling and sanding for 150+ hours but
it will be worth it. The weight will be very very minimal. I would
guess 10 lbs at the most. I am using a product called body icing on the
rivets and anywhere that needs more than a 1/16" I am using some
aluminum filler or just epoxy and fiberglass. Joe Waltz built an RV-8
in Houston and filled his rivets and it looks awesome. He received an
outstanding aircraft award this year at Sun and Fun. Well, back to
sanding and filling and filling and sanding. The way I see it, I have
more time than money.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
For those who have not yet visited Craig's site, there is a lot of
thought that he puts into his trademarked paint designs.
http://www.schemedesigners.com/samples-kits.htm Those who have
contracted for his service have acknowledged that it was worth the value
received for the price paid. Those going to OSK, put him to the task!
You are well beyond the basics on graphic layout. I think they rock.
Sunlit angles, removable panel wear, rock chips on Horizontal LE,
exhaust residue working its way up the side from the bottom of the
empennage and cowl shake at the firewall should be added to the decision
process.
Your forethought and time investment is evident.
I will hammer away some specific comments later tonight to start the
barrage of low-value opinions- here (but then you did ask). Thanks for
sharing.
Your gun is going to pay dividends, even used by you. Tom Conner (Bend)
uses one and he charges $24-28K for award winning plastic aircraft paint
schemes. At KUAO, Craig is booked 12 months out. Tom is booked 18
months.
Metallic paints can find the slightest sand scratch swell (imperfection)
in the topcoat prep. Dark colors on plastic canopies should be avoided.
For two very clear reasons. I agree with Randy that Ed did a great job
(N770BD)of prep and a gorgeous coordinated color combination but I would
caution other about color choice on composite canopies.... more to be
posted later.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
While we're on the subject of paint....
Last night I just stayed up working designs with my wife. I'm hoping
to finalize my paint decision so that I have time to get an embroidery
pattern created, and have a couple of shirts embroidered before OSH...
I find that trying to design and think up paint schemes is agonizing.
Here are some of my 2nd run of ideas.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/index.html
Any comments would be welcomed, and suggestions as to a) alternative
ideas, or b) how easily paintable some of these would be, would be
very appreciated. Feel free to download any of them if you think
you'd like them yourself, and I also have the line drawings there
for you to use when designing your own schemes. I created the
3D view from a photo of the Van's N410RV, and I used the CAD
drawings for the side view.
Once I get the side view picked out and finalized, I will be preparing
the line drawings for the top and front view as well, and then working
it into the 3D view. I found that I couldn't design very well in
3D because you couldn't tell how the paint would look around the
N-Number.
Tim
PS: I got myself a real nice high-end paint gun:
SataJet RP Digital II. It's known as being a spectacular gun, which
I'll need, as I'm sure I'm not a spectacular painter. ;)
For those looking for sprayguns, check out:
http://www.spraygunindustry.com/
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 17
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
>
> The way I see it, I have
> more time than money.
If you figure out a way to switch those around,
please share... *wink*
-Dj
do not archive
Message 18
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks Mark, and the others who've commented this far. I also like
Scott's paint possibility...has a lot of similarities actually.
To the question of Mark's asking how I'm doing this:
I'm using PaintShop Pro 8.0, and using the pen tool to overlay
a multi-curved line of about 3 or 4 pixels wide, in either
of the 2 colors. So I outline the area to be shaded in. Then,
I save the image in PaintShopPro's proprietary format, so that
I have multiple versions with all the VECTOR type graphic information
in it.
Then, I merge all - flatten the image down so that it's not a
vector image anymore...which allows me to use the fill tool to
fill in the colored area within it's boundries. Then I save
it again. If I want to put it on the web I save one more
time as a .jpg.
If I don't like what I see, I either adjust the curves, or hit
CTRL-Z (undo) a bunch of times until I get back to where I
wanted to rework from. Then I start the above process again.
it takes time, and it won't be perfect, but then again, when
I go to mask this stuff off it won't be perfect either.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Mark wrote:
> Nice Tim! I like #5. I like having the top of the empennage painted in
> the back section and I really like the stripe thingy on the vertical
> stab & rudder.
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Tim Olson <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 08, 2005 10:01 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Paint
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com
> <mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com>>
>
> While we're on the subject of paint....
> Last night I just stayed up working designs with my wife. I'm hoping
> to finalize my paint decision so that I have time to get an embroidery
> pattern created, and have a couple of shirts embroidered before OSH...
> I find that trying to design and think up paint schemes is agonizing.
> Here are some of my 2nd run of ideas.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/index.html
>
> Any comments would be welcomed, and suggestions as to a) alternative
> ideas, or b) how easily paintable some of these would be, would be
> very appreciated. Feel free to download any of them if you think
> you'd like them yourself, and I also have the line drawings there
> for you to use when designing your own schemes. I created the
> 3D view from a photo of the Van's N410RV, and I used the CAD
> drawings for the side view.
>
> Once I get the side view picked out and finalized, I will be preparing
> the line drawings for the top and front view as well, and then working
> it into the 3D view. I found that I couldn't design very well in
> 3D because you couldn't tell how the paint would look around the
> N-Number.
>
> Tim
>
> PS: I got myself a real nice high-end paint gun:
> SataJet RP Digital II. It's known as being a spectacular gun, which
> I'll need, as I'm sure I'm not a spectacular painter. ;)
> For those looking for sprayguns, check out:
> http://www.spraygunindustry.com/
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> Randy DeBauw wrote:
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com
> <mailto:Randy@abros.com>>
> >
> > I think it is even better looking then the photo shows. The white
> > doesn't look good in the photo and in person I bet it look
> fabulous. I
> > do like the green. I am contemplating doing a Cirrus style stripes.
> > Randy
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
> > Dawson-Townsend
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 6:59 AM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
> > --> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com <mailto:Tdawson@Avidyne.com>>
> >
> >
> > I think Ed McGinty is winnging the paint contest so far . . .
> >
> > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?postid=9165
> >
> > TDT
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
> Hasbrouck
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 9:54 AM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
> >
> >
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
> > --> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com <mailto:jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>>
> >
> > Rick & Dan,
> > Thanks for the great advice. Warming up the microstop, getting
> > ready to go......john
> >
> > =========================p; Navigator Photoshare, and much
> much ;
> ===============================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I noticed the Ed McGinty paint job today....very nice indeed. I
personally like the idea of a lighter canopy but his looks
fantastic. Glossy too.
The thing that stands out is the small N-numbers though. I realize
that A) they may be temporary, and B) some people prefer smaller
numbers, and C) that you may be able to get by with small
N-numbers and not get in trouble, but....here's what I ran
across today...
I had my wife search the FAR's to verify the legal requirements.
They are posted below.
My comments though, I'll limit to a couple of specific lines.
#1: "...or a light-sport aircraft when the maximum cruising speed
of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS..."
On N410RV, the top speed of that plane is listes as 208mph,
which is 181 kts. I know, the "cruising" speed won't be
the same as "top speed", but with the new blended airfoil
prop being a knot or two faster, your top speed definitely
will.
#2: (This one is the biggie)
section (h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft
penetrating an ADIZ or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft
temporary or permanent nationality and registration marks at
least 12 inches high.
Here I think is the largest reason as to why you should
probably forego small N-numbers and just go 12". Remember
that the area around Washington DC is currently an ADIZ,
and there has been a push to make other areas similarly
restrictive. This law is very un-ambiguous and would
absolutely mean that you are not welcome to fly a small
N-numbered plane in those areas. For my plane, I would
surely not want add the possible future restriction of my
flyable airspace just to avoid having to put 12" letters
on my plane.
Again, this isn't pointed at Ed, or anyone else for that
matter. Just something I walked into today that gave
me a 100% reason to go 12" lettering.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
45.29 Size of marks.
top
(a) Except as provided in paragraph (f) of this section, each operator
of an aircraft shall display marks on the aircraft meeting the size
requirements of this section.
(b) Height. Except as provided in paragraph (h) of this part, the
nationality and registration marks must be of equal height and on
(1) Fixed-wing aircraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that:
(i) An aircraft displaying marks at least 2 inches high before November
1, 1981 and an aircraft manufactured after November 2, 1981, but before
January 1, 1983, may display those marks until the aircraft is repainted
or the marks are repainted, restored, or changed;
(ii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on a glider;
(iii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on an aircraft for
which the FAA has issued an experimental certificate under 21.191 (d),
21.191 (g), or 21.191 (i) of this chapter to operate as an exhibition
aircraft, an amateur-built aircraft, or a light-sport aircraft when the
maximum cruising speed of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS; and
(iv) Marks may be displayed on an exhibition, antique, or other aircraft
in accordance with 45.22.
(2) Airships, spherical balloons, nonspherical balloons, powered
parachutes, and weight-shift-control aircraft must be at least 3 inches
high; and
(3) Rotorcraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that rotorcraft
displaying before April 18, 1983, marks required by 45.29(b)(3) in
effect on April 17, 1983, and rotorcraft manufactured on or after April
18, 1983, but before December 31, 1983, may display those marks until
the aircraft is repainted or the marks are repainted, restored, or changed.
(c) Width. Characters must be two-thirds as wide as they are high,
except the number 1, which must be one-sixth as wide as it is high,
and the letters M and W which may be as wide as they are high.
(d) Thickness. Characters must be formed by solid lines one-sixth as
thick as the character is high.
(e) Spacing. The space between each character may not be less than
one-fourth of the character width.
(f) If either one of the surfaces authorized for displaying required
marks under 45.25 is large enough for display of marks meeting the size
requirements of this section and the other is not, full-size marks shall
be placed on the larger surface. If neither surface is large enough for
full-size marks, marks as large as practicable shall be displayed on the
larger of the two surfaces. If any surface authorized to be marked by
45.27 is not large enough for full-size marks, marks as large as
practicable shall be placed on the largest of the authorized surfaces.
(g) Uniformity. The marks required by this part for fixed-wing aircraft
must have the same height, width, thickness, and spacing on both sides
of the aircraft.
(h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft penetrating an
ADIZ or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft temporary or permanent
nationality and registration marks at least 12 inches high.
[Doc. No. 2047, 29 FR 3223, Mar. 11, 1964, as amended by Amdt. 452, 31
FR 9863, July 21, 1966; Amdt. 459, 42 FR 41102, Aug. 15, 1977; Amdt.
4513, 46 FR 48604, Oct. 1, 1981; Amdt. 4515, 48 FR 11392, Mar. 17,
1983; Amdt. 4517, 52 FR 34102, Sept. 9, 1987; 52 FR 36566, Sept. 30,
1987; Amdt. 4524, 69 FR 44863, July 27, 2004]
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: N-Number Sizing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
I believe 12" N numbers are required for flight into Canada and Mexico.
Another reason for the larger numbers.
Larry
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I noticed the Ed McGinty paint job today....very nice indeed. I
> personally like the idea of a lighter canopy but his looks
> fantastic. Glossy too.
>
> The thing that stands out is the small N-numbers though. I realize
> that A) they may be temporary, and B) some people prefer smaller
> numbers, and C) that you may be able to get by with small
> N-numbers and not get in trouble, but....here's what I ran
> across today...
>
> I had my wife search the FAR's to verify the legal requirements.
> They are posted below.
>
> My comments though, I'll limit to a couple of specific lines.
>
> #1: "...or a light-sport aircraft when the maximum cruising speed
> of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS..."
>
> On N410RV, the top speed of that plane is listes as 208mph,
> which is 181 kts. I know, the "cruising" speed won't be
> the same as "top speed", but with the new blended airfoil
> prop being a knot or two faster, your top speed definitely
> will.
>
> #2: (This one is the biggie)
> section (h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft
> penetrating an ADIZ or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft
> temporary or permanent nationality and registration marks at
> least 12 inches high.
>
> Here I think is the largest reason as to why you should
> probably forego small N-numbers and just go 12". Remember
> that the area around Washington DC is currently an ADIZ,
> and there has been a push to make other areas similarly
> restrictive. This law is very un-ambiguous and would
> absolutely mean that you are not welcome to fly a small
> N-numbered plane in those areas. For my plane, I would
> surely not want add the possible future restriction of my
> flyable airspace just to avoid having to put 12" letters
> on my plane.
>
> Again, this isn't pointed at Ed, or anyone else for that
> matter. Just something I walked into today that gave
> me a 100% reason to go 12" lettering.
> Tim
Message 21
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Tim,
I considered getting a high end paint gun also, but decided instead to get a good
paint system. I'm guessing you paid a couple of hundered dollars for that
gun, I figure for $900-1100 I can get a complete HVLP system with turbine, respirator,
AND gun. I'm looking at the Axis Citation 4 stage turbine system. No
constant running of my compressor to keep up with the air volume requirements
and no moisture filters to deal with. Just my $0.02.
<https://secure.foxvalley.net/axispro_com/OCCS/Default.asp?Func=Menu&Name=Category&Value=Citation%2DSprayer%2FRespirator>
available here:
<http://search.stores.ebay.com/search/search.dll?query=citation&srchdesc=y&sid=5549674&store=autobodydepot&colorid=-1&fp=0&st=1&fsoo=1&fsop=1>
William Curtis
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: N-Number Sizing |
You are allowed to put temp numbers on. They can be black tape. And then pull them
back off when you are not going into that type of air zone or the bahama or
Mexico.
pat
Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
I noticed the Ed McGinty paint job today....very nice indeed. I
personally like the idea of a lighter canopy but his looks
fantastic. Glossy too.
The thing that stands out is the small N-numbers though. I realize
that A) they may be temporary, and B) some people prefer smaller
numbers, and C) that you may be able to get by with small
N-numbers and not get in trouble, but....here's what I ran
across today...
I had my wife search the FAR's to verify the legal requirements.
They are posted below.
My comments though, I'll limit to a couple of specific lines.
#1: "...or a light-sport aircraft when the maximum cruising speed
of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS..."
On N410RV, the top speed of that plane is listes as 208mph,
which is 181 kts. I know, the "cruising" speed won't be
the same as "top speed", but with the new blended airfoil
prop being a knot or two faster, your top speed definitely
will.
#2: (This one is the biggie)
section (h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft
penetrating an ADIZ or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft
temporary or permanent nationality and registration marks at
least 12 inches high.
Here I think is the largest reason as to why you should
probably forego small N-numbers and just go 12". Remember
that the area around Washington DC is currently an ADIZ,
and there has been a push to make other areas similarly
restrictive. This law is very un-ambiguous and would
absolutely mean that you are not welcome to fly a small
N-numbered plane in those areas. For my plane, I would
surely not want add the possible future restriction of my
flyable airspace just to avoid having to put 12" letters
on my plane.
Again, this isn't pointed at Ed, or anyone else for that
matter. Just something I walked into today that gave
me a 100% reason to go 12" lettering.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
45.29 Size of marks.
top
(a) Except as provided in paragraph (f) of this section, each operator
of an aircraft shall display marks on the aircraft meeting the size
requirements of this section.
(b) Height. Except as provided in paragraph (h) of this part, the
nationality and registration marks must be of equal height and on
(1) Fixed-wing aircraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that:
(i) An aircraft displaying marks at least 2 inches high before November
1, 1981 and an aircraft manufactured after November 2, 1981, but before
January 1, 1983, may display those marks until the aircraft is repainted
or the marks are repainted, restored, or changed;
(ii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on a glider;
(iii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on an aircraft for
which the FAA has issued an experimental certificate under 21.191 (d),
21.191 (g), or 21.191 (i) of this chapter to operate as an exhibition
aircraft, an amateur-built aircraft, or a light-sport aircraft when the
maximum cruising speed of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS; and
(iv) Marks may be displayed on an exhibition, antique, or other aircraft
in accordance with 45.22.
(2) Airships, spherical balloons, nonspherical balloons, powered
parachutes, and weight-shift-control aircraft must be at least 3 inches
high; and
(3) Rotorcraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that rotorcraft
displaying before April 18, 1983, marks required by 45.29(b)(3) in
effect on April 17, 1983, and rotorcraft manufactured on or after April
18, 1983, but before December 31, 1983, may display those marks until
the aircraft is repainted or the marks are repainted, restored, or changed.
(c) Width. Characters must be two-thirds as wide as they are high,
except the number 1, which must be one-sixth as wide as it is high,
and the letters M and W which may be as wide as they are high.
(d) Thickness. Characters must be formed by solid lines one-sixth as
thick as the character is high.
(e) Spacing. The space between each character may not be less than
one-fourth of the character width.
(f) If either one of the surfaces authorized for displaying required
marks under 45.25 is large enough for display of marks meeting the size
requirements of this section and the other is not, full-size marks shall
be placed on the larger surface. If neither surface is large enough for
full-size marks, marks as large as practicable shall be displayed on the
larger of the two surfaces. If any surface authorized to be marked by
45.27 is not large enough for full-size marks, marks as large as
practicable shall be placed on the largest of the authorized surfaces.
(g) Uniformity. The marks required by this part for fixed-wing aircraft
must have the same height, width, thickness, and spacing on both sides
of the aircraft.
(h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft penetrating an
ADIZ or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft temporary or permanent
nationality and registration marks at least 12 inches high.
[Doc. No. 2047, 29 FR 3223, Mar. 11, 1964, as amended by Amdt. 452, 31
FR 9863, July 21, 1966; Amdt. 459, 42 FR 41102, Aug. 15, 1977; Amdt.
4513, 46 FR 48604, Oct. 1, 1981; Amdt. 4515, 48 FR 11392, Mar. 17,
1983; Amdt. 4517, 52 FR 34102, Sept. 9, 1987; 52 FR 36566, Sept. 30,
1987; Amdt. 4524, 69 FR 44863, July 27, 2004]
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: N-Number Sizing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Valid concerns Tim! We get a lot of traffic through FL going to the
Bahamas. They require 12" numbers. Those that have 3" numbers just
tape their N number on the fuselage side, in contrasting color tape, and
remove them after the trip.
Linn ..... don't care for big numbers either.
do not archive
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I noticed the Ed McGinty paint job today....very nice indeed. I
> personally like the idea of a lighter canopy but his looks
> fantastic. Glossy too.
>
> The thing that stands out is the small N-numbers though. I realize
> that A) they may be temporary, and B) some people prefer smaller
> numbers, and C) that you may be able to get by with small
> N-numbers and not get in trouble, but....here's what I ran
> across today...
>
> I had my wife search the FAR's to verify the legal requirements.
> They are posted below.
>
> My comments though, I'll limit to a couple of specific lines.
>
> #1: "...or a light-sport aircraft when the maximum cruising speed
> of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS..."
>
> On N410RV, the top speed of that plane is listes as 208mph,
> which is 181 kts. I know, the "cruising" speed won't be
> the same as "top speed", but with the new blended airfoil
> prop being a knot or two faster, your top speed definitely
> will.
>
> #2: (This one is the biggie)
> section (h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft
> penetrating an ADIZ or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft
> temporary or permanent nationality and registration marks at
> least 12 inches high.
>
> Here I think is the largest reason as to why you should
> probably forego small N-numbers and just go 12". Remember
> that the area around Washington DC is currently an ADIZ,
> and there has been a push to make other areas similarly
> restrictive. This law is very un-ambiguous and would
> absolutely mean that you are not welcome to fly a small
> N-numbered plane in those areas. For my plane, I would
> surely not want add the possible future restriction of my
> flyable airspace just to avoid having to put 12" letters
> on my plane.
>
> Again, this isn't pointed at Ed, or anyone else for that
> matter. Just something I walked into today that gave
> me a 100% reason to go 12" lettering.
> Tim
--
Message 24
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Let me ask this. What would you expect to pay to have a professional
place just shoot the plane if you did all the prep work and all the
taping? I really don't even want to attempt to paint this plane. That
is one thing that can make the plane look like a million bucks or a
couple bucks.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Curtis
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Paint
Tim,
I considered getting a high end paint gun also, but decided instead to
get a good paint system. I'm guessing you paid a couple of hundered
dollars for that gun, I figure for $900-1100 I can get a complete HVLP
system with turbine, respirator, AND gun. I'm looking at the Axis
Citation 4 stage turbine system. No constant running of my compressor to
keep up with the air volume requirements and no moisture filters to deal
with. Just my $0.02.
available here:
William Curtis
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/
Message 25
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|
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Me? I'd probably be happy to pay about $1000 for a paint job if
I did all the prep, or $2500 if someone else did. Ok, so shoot
me for even thinking that's reasonable, but.....remember that
most painters will tell you that good preparation is 90% of
what makes a good paint job. So, if you're gonna prep yourself,
then you're still responsible for the majority of how good it
turns out. Also, while I think a good hand on the paint gun
will greatly add to how consistently good a paint job will be,
I think there are also many great paint jobs painted by people
who did them theirselves. In the discussions that I've watched,
it sounds like I would more reasonably expect to spend a bare
MINIMUM of $5000 for a professional paint job, with more likely
$6000-8000 being the total. For me, I'd MUCH rather put that
into something that I will see INSIDE the cockpit, that has
a chance of adding to safety....like the avionics.
I also had the benefit of going to Randy's house and looking
at his empennage parts that he painted. They looked pretty
good. So, then I realized that a person can actually do
a good job if they try. Worst case, you sand a lot extra
and spray extra paint, but it should easily be do-able if you
don't get too outrageous.
One other deciding factor is that I intend to paint before
assembly. This should greatly simplify the painting of
the fuselage, and the wings and control surfaces.
I will point out one exception that I might try for though.
My blue and silver will probably be metallics, and I've
got a contact name to call for a guy who's painted planes
and works days in a body shop. I'm thinking of offering him
$300-500 to do just the Blue and Silver striping, after
I paint the white base. Now that should be a pretty
good deal.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Let me ask this. What would you expect to pay to have a professional
> place just shoot the plane if you did all the prep work and all the
> taping? I really dont even want to attempt to paint this plane. That
> is one thing that can make the plane look like a million bucks or a
> couple bucks.
>
>
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> Cell: 801-319-3094
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *William Curtis
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 08, 2005 2:39 PM
> *To:* RV10-List@matronics.com; tim@MyRV10.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: RE: Paint
>
>
>
> Tim,
>
> I considered getting a high end paint gun also, but decided instead to
> get a good paint system. I'm guessing you paid a couple of hundered
> dollars for that gun, I figure for $900-1100 I can get a complete HVLP
> system with turbine, respirator, AND gun. I'm looking at the Axis
> Citation 4 stage turbine system. No constant running of my compressor to
> keep up with the air volume requirements and no moisture filters to deal
> with. Just my $0.02.
>
>
>
> available here:
>
>
> William Curtis
> http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/
>
Message 26
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Another option is what the OEMs do: paint the base coat and get some high-quality
vinyl graphics to do the fancy stripes . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Paint
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Me? I'd probably be happy to pay about $1000 for a paint job if
I did all the prep, or $2500 if someone else did. Ok, so shoot
me for even thinking that's reasonable, but.....remember that
most painters will tell you that good preparation is 90% of
what makes a good paint job. So, if you're gonna prep yourself,
then you're still responsible for the majority of how good it
turns out. Also, while I think a good hand on the paint gun
will greatly add to how consistently good a paint job will be,
I think there are also many great paint jobs painted by people
who did them theirselves. In the discussions that I've watched,
it sounds like I would more reasonably expect to spend a bare
MINIMUM of $5000 for a professional paint job, with more likely
$6000-8000 being the total. For me, I'd MUCH rather put that
into something that I will see INSIDE the cockpit, that has
a chance of adding to safety....like the avionics.
I also had the benefit of going to Randy's house and looking
at his empennage parts that he painted. They looked pretty
good. So, then I realized that a person can actually do
a good job if they try. Worst case, you sand a lot extra
and spray extra paint, but it should easily be do-able if you
don't get too outrageous.
One other deciding factor is that I intend to paint before
assembly. This should greatly simplify the painting of
the fuselage, and the wings and control surfaces.
I will point out one exception that I might try for though.
My blue and silver will probably be metallics, and I've
got a contact name to call for a guy who's painted planes
and works days in a body shop. I'm thinking of offering him
$300-500 to do just the Blue and Silver striping, after
I paint the white base. Now that should be a pretty
good deal.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Let me ask this. What would you expect to pay to have a professional
> place just shoot the plane if you did all the prep work and all the
> taping? I really dont even want to attempt to paint this plane. That
> is one thing that can make the plane look like a million bucks or a
> couple bucks.
>
>
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> Cell: 801-319-3094
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *William Curtis
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 08, 2005 2:39 PM
> *To:* RV10-List@matronics.com; tim@MyRV10.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: RE: Paint
>
>
>
> Tim,
>
> I considered getting a high end paint gun also, but decided instead to
> get a good paint system. I'm guessing you paid a couple of hundered
> dollars for that gun, I figure for $900-1100 I can get a complete HVLP
> system with turbine, respirator, AND gun. I'm looking at the Axis
> Citation 4 stage turbine system. No constant running of my compressor to
> keep up with the air volume requirements and no moisture filters to deal
> with. Just my $0.02.
>
>
>
> available here:
>
>
> William Curtis
> http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/
>
Message 27
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--> RV10-List message posted by: me <mail2me98@gmail.com>
Hey Guys I'm new to this board, at least to post anything, but i can Help
you with the paint problem. I have been working on designs for striping
planes with "vinyl stripe kits". they have a 7 year warranty from the
manufacturer "3M" not to fade etc... and goes well over rivets . Best
of all you can apply it yourself with no masking prep or taping.just apply
the vinyl then edge seal with a special edging pen.
My company is "Airstripes" and you'll find me very soon at
http://www.Airstripes.com . I had the site up but i didn't like
my DNS host so am changing (should have something up tomorrow).
Please send me an email for now and i would be glad to send you
pictures of the stripes and jpg files of your paint ideas without all
the messy crayon effects. i just need an accurate file of the RV10
"side profile" to make an accurate measurement to cut from on the
Plotter. Oh yes and if you still want to paint you can use a paint
mask
which can be cut as well. price range will be around $475 to $850 or so
depending on complexity and so on.
Thanks for letting me post,
Lyf
"future RV10 Builder"
Lyf Halvorsen
airstripes@gmail.com
Airstripes.com
p.o. box 1788
Wilsonville, Oregon
97070
do not Archive
Message 28
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Message 29
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Now you know my reason. I don't know if I will but I do plan on making a trip to
Grand Cayman. If I do I will need larger letters. The same goes for Canada
I believe. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: N-Number Sizing
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I noticed the Ed McGinty paint job today....very nice indeed. I personally like
the idea of a lighter canopy but his looks fantastic. Glossy too.
The thing that stands out is the small N-numbers though. I realize that A) they
may be temporary, and B) some people prefer smaller numbers, and C) that you
may be able to get by with small N-numbers and not get in trouble, but....here's
what I ran across today...
I had my wife search the FAR's to verify the legal requirements.
They are posted below.
My comments though, I'll limit to a couple of specific lines.
#1: "...or a light-sport aircraft when the maximum cruising speed of the aircraft
does not exceed 180 knots CAS..."
On N410RV, the top speed of that plane is listes as 208mph,
which is 181 kts. I know, the "cruising" speed won't be
the same as "top speed", but with the new blended airfoil prop being a knot or
two faster, your top speed definitely will.
#2: (This one is the biggie)
section (h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft penetrating an ADIZ
or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft temporary or permanent nationality
and registration marks at least 12 inches high.
Here I think is the largest reason as to why you should
probably forego small N-numbers and just go 12". Remember
that the area around Washington DC is currently an ADIZ, and there has been a push
to make other areas similarly
restrictive. This law is very un-ambiguous and would
absolutely mean that you are not welcome to fly a small
N-numbered plane in those areas. For my plane, I would
surely not want add the possible future restriction of my flyable airspace just
to avoid having to put 12" letters on my plane.
Again, this isn't pointed at Ed, or anyone else for that matter. Just something
I walked into today that gave me a 100% reason to go 12" lettering.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
45.29 Size of marks.
top
(a) Except as provided in paragraph (f) of this section, each operator of an aircraft
shall display marks on the aircraft meeting the size requirements of this
section.
(b) Height. Except as provided in paragraph (h) of this part, the nationality and
registration marks must be of equal height and on-
(1) Fixed-wing aircraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that:
(i) An aircraft displaying marks at least 2 inches high before November 1, 1981
and an aircraft manufactured after November 2, 1981, but before January 1, 1983,
may display those marks until the aircraft is repainted or the marks are repainted,
restored, or changed;
(ii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on a glider;
(iii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on an aircraft for which the
FAA has issued an experimental certificate under 21.191 (d),
21.191 (g), or 21.191 (i) of this chapter to operate as an exhibition aircraft,
an amateur-built aircraft, or a light-sport aircraft when the maximum cruising
speed of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS; and
(iv) Marks may be displayed on an exhibition, antique, or other aircraft in accordance
with 45.22.
(2) Airships, spherical balloons, nonspherical balloons, powered parachutes, and
weight-shift-control aircraft must be at least 3 inches high; and
(3) Rotorcraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that rotorcraft displaying
before April 18, 1983, marks required by 45.29(b)(3) in effect on April 17,
1983, and rotorcraft manufactured on or after April 18, 1983, but before December
31, 1983, may display those marks until the aircraft is repainted or the
marks are repainted, restored, or changed.
(c) Width. Characters must be two-thirds as wide as they are high, except the number
"1", which must be one-sixth as wide as it is high, and the letters "M"
and "W" which may be as wide as they are high.
(d) Thickness. Characters must be formed by solid lines one-sixth as thick as the
character is high.
(e) Spacing. The space between each character may not be less than one-fourth of
the character width.
(f) If either one of the surfaces authorized for displaying required marks under
45.25 is large enough for display of marks meeting the size requirements of
this section and the other is not, full-size marks shall be placed on the larger
surface. If neither surface is large enough for full-size marks, marks as large
as practicable shall be displayed on the larger of the two surfaces. If any
surface authorized to be marked by
45.27 is not large enough for full-size marks, marks as large as practicable shall
be placed on the largest of the authorized surfaces.
(g) Uniformity. The marks required by this part for fixed-wing aircraft must have
the same height, width, thickness, and spacing on both sides of the aircraft.
(h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft penetrating an ADIZ or DEWIZ
shall display on that aircraft temporary or permanent nationality and registration
marks at least 12 inches high.
[Doc. No. 2047, 29 FR 3223, Mar. 11, 1964, as amended by Amdt. 45-2, 31 FR 9863,
July 21, 1966; Amdt. 45-9, 42 FR 41102, Aug. 15, 1977; Amdt.
45-13, 46 FR 48604, Oct. 1, 1981; Amdt. 45-15, 48 FR 11392, Mar. 17, 1983; Amdt.
45-17, 52 FR 34102, Sept. 9, 1987; 52 FR 36566, Sept. 30, 1987; Amdt. 45-24,
69 FR 44863, July 27, 2004]
Message 30
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Bob I have seen and talked to a company that specializes in plane
graphics. The only problem is that the price was about 2600.00 for the
design I liked. I have my own vinyl cutting machine and cut all of my
numbers myself. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RE: Paint
Anybody know a source for the vinyl graphics? Painting the plane a
single color seems like it should be within my abilities, but much
beyond that... Also, how difficult is it to apply the graphics?
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wed 06/08/2005 04:47 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Cc:
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RE: Paint
=09
=09
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Another option is what the OEMs do: paint the base coat and get
some high-quality vinyl graphics to do the fancy stripes . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Olson
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 5:43 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Paint
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Me? I'd probably be happy to pay about $1000 for a paint job if
I did all the prep, or $2500 if someone else did. Ok, so shoot
me for even thinking that's reasonable, but.....remember that
most painters will tell you that good preparation is 90% of
what makes a good paint job. So, if you're gonna prep yourself,
then you're still responsible for the majority of how good it
turns out. Also, while I think a good hand on the paint gun
will greatly add to how consistently good a paint job will be,
I think there are also many great paint jobs painted by people
who did them theirselves. In the discussions that I've watched,
it sounds like I would more reasonably expect to spend a bare
MINIMUM of $5000 for a professional paint job, with more likely
$6000-8000 being the total. For me, I'd MUCH rather put that
into something that I will see INSIDE the cockpit, that has
a chance of adding to safety....like the avionics.
I also had the benefit of going to Randy's house and looking
at his empennage parts that he painted. They looked pretty
good. So, then I realized that a person can actually do
a good job if they try. Worst case, you sand a lot extra
and spray extra paint, but it should easily be do-able if you
don't get too outrageous.
One other deciding factor is that I intend to paint before
assembly. This should greatly simplify the painting of
the fuselage, and the wings and control surfaces.
I will point out one exception that I might try for though.
My blue and silver will probably be metallics, and I've
got a contact name to call for a guy who's painted planes
and works days in a body shop. I'm thinking of offering him
$300-500 to do just the Blue and Silver striping, after
I paint the white base. Now that should be a pretty
good deal.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Let me ask this. What would you expect to pay to have a
professional
> place just shoot the plane if you did all the prep work and
all the
> taping? I really don't even want to attempt to paint this
plane. That
> is one thing that can make the plane look like a million bucks
or a
> couple bucks.
>
>
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> Cell: 801-319-3094
>
> sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
*William Curtis
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 08, 2005 2:39 PM
> *To:* RV10-List@matronics.com; tim@MyRV10.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: RE: Paint
>
>
>
> Tim,
>
> I considered getting a high end paint gun also, but decided
instead to
> get a good paint system. I'm guessing you paid a couple of
hundered
> dollars for that gun, I figure for $900-1100 I can get a
complete HVLP
> system with turbine, respirator, AND gun. I'm looking at the
Axis
> Citation 4 stage turbine system. No constant running of my
compressor to
> keep up with the air volume requirements and no moisture
filters to deal
> with. Just my $0.02.
>
>
>
> available here:
>
>
> William Curtis
> http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/
>
=09
=09
Message 31
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| From: | "Wayne @ Engravers.net" <wayne@engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N-Number Sizing |
Aircraft Engravers makes vinyl N-numbers, not the graphics for the whole plane. However, we have made temporary N-numbers when planes are sold or as a temps for ferry flights. We use the paint mask material (which only comes in white) cut in a rectangle a little larger than the finished N-number size and then apply the new N-number on top of the paint mask. When the temporary N-number needs to be removed it can be done with ease. I have had these installed on Gulfstreams and Canadair Challengers without any problems of them peeling off before they needed to be removed. This could be used to fly to foreign countries and upon your return they can be removed to reveal the original 3" height numbers. http://www.engravers.net/aircraft/vinyl-aircraft.htm
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Thyssen
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: N-Number Sizing
You are allowed to put temp numbers on. They can be black tape. And then pull
them back off when you are not going into that type of air zone or the bahama
or Mexico.
pat
of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS..."
On N410RV, the top speed of that plane is listes as 208mph,
which is 181 kts. I know, the "cruising" speed won't be
the same as "top speed", but with the new blended airfoil
prop being a knot or two faster, your top speed definitely
will.
#2: (This one is the biggie)
section (h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft
penetrating an ADIZ or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft
temporary or permanent nationality and registration marks at
least 12 inches high.
Here I think is the largest reason as to why you should
probably forego small N-numbers and just go 12". Remember
that the area around Washington DC is currently an ADIZ,
and there has been a push to make other areas similarly
restrictive. This law is very un-ambiguous and would
absolutely mean that you are not welcome to fly a small
N-numbered plane in those areas. For my plane, I would
surely not want add the possible future restriction of my
flyable airspace just to avoid having to put 12" letters
on my plane.
Again, this is n't pointed at Ed, or anyone else for that
matter. Just something I walked into today that gave
me a 100% reason to go 12" lettering.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
=A7 45.29 Size of marks.
top
(a) Except as provided in paragraph (f) of this section, each operator
of an aircraft shall display marks on the aircraft meeting the size
requirements of this section.
(b) Height. Except as provided in paragraph (h) of this part, the
nationality and registration marks must be of equal height and on-
(1) Fixed-wing aircraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that:
(i) An aircraft displaying marks at least 2 inches high before November
1, 1981 and an aircraft manufactured after November 2, 1981, but before
January 1, 1983, may display those marks until the aircraft is repainted
or the marks are repainted, re stored, or changed;
(ii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on a glider;
(iii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on an aircraft for
which the FAA has issued an experimental certificate under =A721.191 (d),
=A721.191 (g), or =A721.191 (i) of this chapter to operate as an exhibition
aircraft, an amateur-built aircraft, or a light-sport aircraft when the
maximum cruising speed of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS; and
(iv) Marks may be displayed on an exhibition, antique, or other aircraft
in accordance with =A745.22.
(2) Airships, spherical balloons, nonspherical balloons, powered
parachutes, and weight-shift-control aircraft must be at least 3 inches
high; and
(3) Rotorcraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that rotorcraft
displaying before April 18, 1983, marks required by =A745.29(b)(3) in
effect on April 17, 1983, and rotorcraft manufactured on or after April
18, 1983, but befo re December 31, 1983, may display those marks until
the aircraft is repainted or the marks are repainted, restored, or changed.
(c) Width. Characters must be two-thirds as wide as they are high,
except the number "1", which must be one-sixth as wide as it is high,
and the letters "M" and "W" which may be as wide as they are high.
(d) Thickness. Characters must be formed by solid lines one-sixth as
thick as the character is high.
(e) Spacing. The space between each character may not be less than
one-fourth of the character width.
(f) If either one of the surfaces authorized for displaying required
marks under =A745.25 is large enough for display of marks meeting the size
requirements of this section and the other is not, full-size marks shall
be placed on the larger surface. If neither surface is large enough for
full-size marks, marks as large as practicable shall be displayed on the
larger of the two surfaces. I f any surface authorized to be marked by
=A745.27 is not large enough for full-size marks, marks as large as
practicable shall be placed on the largest of the authorized surfaces.
(g) Uniformity. The marks required by this part for fixed-wing aircraft
must have the same height, width, thickness, and spacing on both sides
of the aircraft.
(h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft penetrating an
ADIZ or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft temporary or permanent
nationality and registration marks at least 12 inches high.
[Doc. No. 2047, 29 FR 3223, Mar. 11, 1964, as amended by Amdt. 45-2, 31
FR 9863, July 21, 1966; Amdt. 45-9, 42 FR 41102, Aug. 15, 1977; Amdt.
45-13, 46 FR 48604, Oct. 1, 1981; Amdt. 45-15, 48 FR 11392, Mar. 17,
1983; Amdt. 45-17, 52 FR 34102, Sept. 9, 1987; 52 FR 36566, Sept. 30,
1987; Amdt. 45-24, 69 FR 44863, July 27,
Message 32
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
Tim can you tell me which one you are using because I will steal a
different one. Very nice work Tim. I am impressed. I thought if it
didn't involve the inner workings computers or computer hardware that
you were useless. Or was that very smart wife of yours that really come
up with these. Whomever it was great work. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
While we're on the subject of paint....
Last night I just stayed up working designs with my wife. I'm hoping to
finalize my paint decision so that I have time to get an embroidery
pattern created, and have a couple of shirts embroidered before OSH...
I find that trying to design and think up paint schemes is agonizing.
Here are some of my 2nd run of ideas.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/index.html
Any comments would be welcomed, and suggestions as to a) alternative
ideas, or b) how easily paintable some of these would be, would be
very appreciated. Feel free to download any of them if you think
you'd like them yourself, and I also have the line drawings there
for you to use when designing your own schemes. I created the
3D view from a photo of the Van's N410RV, and I used the CAD drawings
for the side view.
Once I get the side view picked out and finalized, I will be preparing
the line drawings for the top and front view as well, and then working
it into the 3D view. I found that I couldn't design very well in 3D
because you couldn't tell how the paint would look around the N-Number.
Tim
PS: I got myself a real nice high-end paint gun:
SataJet RP Digital II. It's known as being a spectacular gun, which
I'll need, as I'm sure I'm not a spectacular painter. ;) For those
looking for sprayguns, check out:
http://www.spraygunindustry.com/
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> I think it is even better looking then the photo shows. The white
> doesn't look good in the photo and in person I bet it look fabulous.
> I do like the green. I am contemplating doing a Cirrus style stripes.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
> Dawson-Townsend
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 6:59 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
> --> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>
>
> I think Ed McGinty is winnging the paint contest so far . . .
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?postid=9165
>
> TDT
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
> Hasbrouck
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 9:54 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
>
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
> --> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>
> Rick & Dan,
> Thanks for the great advice. Warming up the microstop, getting
> ready to go......john
>
>
Message 33
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
I thought the rule was 200 knots or more.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: N-Number Sizing
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I noticed the Ed McGinty paint job today....very nice indeed. I
personally like the idea of a lighter canopy but his looks
fantastic. Glossy too.
The thing that stands out is the small N-numbers though. I realize
that A) they may be temporary, and B) some people prefer smaller
numbers, and C) that you may be able to get by with small
N-numbers and not get in trouble, but....here's what I ran
across today...
I had my wife search the FAR's to verify the legal requirements.
They are posted below.
My comments though, I'll limit to a couple of specific lines.
#1: "...or a light-sport aircraft when the maximum cruising speed
of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS..."
On N410RV, the top speed of that plane is listes as 208mph,
which is 181 kts. I know, the "cruising" speed won't be
the same as "top speed", but with the new blended airfoil
prop being a knot or two faster, your top speed definitely
will.
#2: (This one is the biggie)
section (h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft
penetrating an ADIZ or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft
temporary or permanent nationality and registration marks at
least 12 inches high.
Here I think is the largest reason as to why you should
probably forego small N-numbers and just go 12". Remember
that the area around Washington DC is currently an ADIZ,
and there has been a push to make other areas similarly
restrictive. This law is very un-ambiguous and would
absolutely mean that you are not welcome to fly a small
N-numbered plane in those areas. For my plane, I would
surely not want add the possible future restriction of my
flyable airspace just to avoid having to put 12" letters
on my plane.
Again, this isn't pointed at Ed, or anyone else for that
matter. Just something I walked into today that gave
me a 100% reason to go 12" lettering.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
45.29 Size of marks.
top
(a) Except as provided in paragraph (f) of this section, each operator
of an aircraft shall display marks on the aircraft meeting the size
requirements of this section.
(b) Height. Except as provided in paragraph (h) of this part, the
nationality and registration marks must be of equal height and on
(1) Fixed-wing aircraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that:
(i) An aircraft displaying marks at least 2 inches high before November
1, 1981 and an aircraft manufactured after November 2, 1981, but before
January 1, 1983, may display those marks until the aircraft is repainted
or the marks are repainted, restored, or changed;
(ii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on a glider;
(iii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on an aircraft for
which the FAA has issued an experimental certificate under 21.191 (d),
21.191 (g), or 21.191 (i) of this chapter to operate as an exhibition
aircraft, an amateur-built aircraft, or a light-sport aircraft when the
maximum cruising speed of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS; and
(iv) Marks may be displayed on an exhibition, antique, or other aircraft
in accordance with 45.22.
(2) Airships, spherical balloons, nonspherical balloons, powered
parachutes, and weight-shift-control aircraft must be at least 3 inches
high; and
(3) Rotorcraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that rotorcraft
displaying before April 18, 1983, marks required by 45.29(b)(3) in
effect on April 17, 1983, and rotorcraft manufactured on or after April
18, 1983, but before December 31, 1983, may display those marks until
the aircraft is repainted or the marks are repainted, restored, or changed.
(c) Width. Characters must be two-thirds as wide as they are high,
except the number 1, which must be one-sixth as wide as it is high,
and the letters M and W which may be as wide as they are high.
(d) Thickness. Characters must be formed by solid lines one-sixth as
thick as the character is high.
(e) Spacing. The space between each character may not be less than
one-fourth of the character width.
(f) If either one of the surfaces authorized for displaying required
marks under 45.25 is large enough for display of marks meeting the size
requirements of this section and the other is not, full-size marks shall
be placed on the larger surface. If neither surface is large enough for
full-size marks, marks as large as practicable shall be displayed on the
larger of the two surfaces. If any surface authorized to be marked by
45.27 is not large enough for full-size marks, marks as large as
practicable shall be placed on the largest of the authorized surfaces.
(g) Uniformity. The marks required by this part for fixed-wing aircraft
must have the same height, width, thickness, and spacing on both sides
of the aircraft.
(h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft penetrating an
ADIZ or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft temporary or permanent
nationality and registration marks at least 12 inches high.
[Doc. No. 2047, 29 FR 3223, Mar. 11, 1964, as amended by Amdt. 452, 31
FR 9863, July 21, 1966; Amdt. 459, 42 FR 41102, Aug. 15, 1977; Amdt.
4513, 46 FR 48604, Oct. 1, 1981; Amdt. 4515, 48 FR 11392, Mar. 17,
1983; Amdt. 4517, 52 FR 34102, Sept. 9, 1987; 52 FR 36566, Sept. 30,
1987; Amdt. 4524, 69 FR 44863, July 27, 2004]
Message 34
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>>
>Again, this isn't pointed at Ed, or anyone else for that
>matter. Just something I walked into today that gave
>me a 100% reason to go 12" lettering.
>Tim
>--
>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>Current project: Fuselage
>
Fair enough. I chose the small lettering on the -8 because 1. I think they
look fugly and foul up a nice paint scheme and 2. If for any reason I need
temporary 12" letters for regs or even permanently, they can be cut from
sign vinyl that matches just about any paint color and just stick 'em on.
Van's loves the vinyl graphics and they look terrific on the demonstrators.
I also like the reduced "radar signature" of the smaller letters in case
some sniveling whiner doesn't like me performing whifferdils and whoop dee
doos anywhere within earshot of his bird sanctuary or rock garden. Tis
mighty hard to pick out the little letters on a little airplane moving at
180 mph no matter how good you are with a set of binos.
If they ADIZ the whole country then we're just screwed anyway and it's all
over for GA as we know it. A few extra ADIZ's over the nuke plants,
armories or Clinton's concubine enclaves won't ruin my day.
Just my view. Don't take with other medications and don't drive or operate
heavy machinery after reading.
So there. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 35
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
HA! Yeah, sometimes I can be pretty useless. But, remember that
these designs were designed on a PC, which is how I had the
ability to do it. If you would have given me some pencils
and paper, I'd just blankly stare into the air, wondering what
in the heck was being asked of me. My handwriting has declined
to the level of a 2 year old, but I can type 80 words/min. ;)
I designed most of them, but the wife sketched out some stuff
yesterday, and I then duplicated her designs on the PC.
Feel free to use any of the designs.....I'll probably have mine
chosen within a week or so, but if you happen to use the same one,
we'll just be twins. ;)
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> Tim can you tell me which one you are using because I will steal a
> different one. Very nice work Tim. I am impressed. I thought if it
> didn't involve the inner workings computers or computer hardware that
> you were useless. Or was that very smart wife of yours that really come
> up with these. Whomever it was great work. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 8:01 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> While we're on the subject of paint....
> Last night I just stayed up working designs with my wife. I'm hoping to
> finalize my paint decision so that I have time to get an embroidery
> pattern created, and have a couple of shirts embroidered before OSH...
> I find that trying to design and think up paint schemes is agonizing.
> Here are some of my 2nd run of ideas.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/index.html
>
> Any comments would be welcomed, and suggestions as to a) alternative
> ideas, or b) how easily paintable some of these would be, would be
> very appreciated. Feel free to download any of them if you think
> you'd like them yourself, and I also have the line drawings there
> for you to use when designing your own schemes. I created the
> 3D view from a photo of the Van's N410RV, and I used the CAD drawings
> for the side view.
>
> Once I get the side view picked out and finalized, I will be preparing
> the line drawings for the top and front view as well, and then working
> it into the 3D view. I found that I couldn't design very well in 3D
> because you couldn't tell how the paint would look around the N-Number.
>
> Tim
>
> PS: I got myself a real nice high-end paint gun:
> SataJet RP Digital II. It's known as being a spectacular gun, which
> I'll need, as I'm sure I'm not a spectacular painter. ;) For those
> looking for sprayguns, check out:
> http://www.spraygunindustry.com/
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> Randy DeBauw wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>>
>>I think it is even better looking then the photo shows. The white
>>doesn't look good in the photo and in person I bet it look fabulous.
>>I do like the green. I am contemplating doing a Cirrus style stripes.
>>Randy
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
>>Dawson-Townsend
>>Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 6:59 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
>>--> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>>
>>
>>I think Ed McGinty is winnging the paint contest so far . . .
>>
>>http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?postid=9165
>>
>>TDT
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
>>Hasbrouck
>>Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 9:54 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
>>
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
>>--> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>>
>>Rick & Dan,
>> Thanks for the great advice. Warming up the microstop, getting
>>ready to go......john
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
What colors are you thinking. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
HA! Yeah, sometimes I can be pretty useless. But, remember that
these designs were designed on a PC, which is how I had the ability to
do it. If you would have given me some pencils and paper, I'd just
blankly stare into the air, wondering what in the heck was being asked
of me. My handwriting has declined to the level of a 2 year old, but I
can type 80 words/min. ;) I designed most of them, but the wife sketched
out some stuff yesterday, and I then duplicated her designs on the PC.
Feel free to use any of the designs.....I'll probably have mine chosen
within a week or so, but if you happen to use the same one, we'll just
be twins. ;) Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>
> Tim can you tell me which one you are using because I will steal a
> different one. Very nice work Tim. I am impressed. I thought if it
> didn't involve the inner workings computers or computer hardware that
> you were useless. Or was that very smart wife of yours that really
come
> up with these. Whomever it was great work. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 8:01 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> While we're on the subject of paint....
> Last night I just stayed up working designs with my wife. I'm hoping
> to finalize my paint decision so that I have time to get an embroidery
> pattern created, and have a couple of shirts embroidered before OSH...
> I find that trying to design and think up paint schemes is agonizing.
> Here are some of my 2nd run of ideas.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/paint/index.html
>
> Any comments would be welcomed, and suggestions as to a) alternative
> ideas, or b) how easily paintable some of these would be, would be
> very appreciated. Feel free to download any of them if you think
> you'd like them yourself, and I also have the line drawings there
> for you to use when designing your own schemes. I created the
> 3D view from a photo of the Van's N410RV, and I used the CAD drawings
> for the side view.
>
> Once I get the side view picked out and finalized, I will be preparing
> the line drawings for the top and front view as well, and then working
> it into the 3D view. I found that I couldn't design very well in 3D
> because you couldn't tell how the paint would look around the
N-Number.
>
> Tim
>
> PS: I got myself a real nice high-end paint gun:
> SataJet RP Digital II. It's known as being a spectacular gun, which
> I'll need, as I'm sure I'm not a spectacular painter. ;) For those
> looking for sprayguns, check out:
> http://www.spraygunindustry.com/
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> Randy DeBauw wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy@abros.com>
>>
>>I think it is even better looking then the photo shows. The white
>>doesn't look good in the photo and in person I bet it look fabulous.
>>I do like the green. I am contemplating doing a Cirrus style stripes.
>>Randy
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
>>Dawson-Townsend
>>Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 6:59 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
>>--> <Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
>>
>>
>>I think Ed McGinty is winnging the paint contest so far . . .
>>
>>http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?postid=9165
>>
>>TDT
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
>>Hasbrouck
>>Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 9:54 AM
>>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
>>
>>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck"
>>--> <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
>>
>>Rick & Dan,
>> Thanks for the great advice. Warming up the microstop, getting
>>ready to go......john
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
In the standard "cheap" set of body dent tools and hammers from Harbor
Freight ($20) there is a body dolly that fits in the palm of your hand and
has a nice rolled edge where your fingers would curl that should work behind
the dent. IF the dolly is flush behind the dent, you can pound it with a
nylon or plastic hammer. The heavy mass of the dolly lets you take a pretty
good wack at it without adding to the damage. It should work a lot better
than a wooden block if it will fit. The secret to getting it out is having
a lot of mass behind the dent when you wack it. I would wack lightly and
"work" it out as opposed to taking it out with one blow.
Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
--> RV10-List message posted by: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Hi Bill,
Welcome to the club ;-)
This happened to me on about the sixth rivet I set on the VS. I have a few
more birthmarks on various skins (mostly due to trying to buck/shoot solo,
and a really crap extended back rivet set that should be outlawed . . . ).
If the ding does not include the rib behind the skin, you can fashion a
dolly from hardwood, place it on the inside of the skin and use a plastic
faced mallet to tap the dent back in. I have not had much success reducing
these if the ding presses the rib into the skin. I am just not game enough
to whack the skin as hard as it appears necessary to push both skin and rib
back into shape.
I too would be very interested in any tricks that other listers may have for
these 'birthmarks'.
cheers,
Ron
#187 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an accident with the
bucking bar and accidentally put a dent in the leading edge of the HS skin.
I'll try to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact me if you can
offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you the picture. Meanwhile, any thoughts or
suggestions or do I just let the paint shop work this one out???
TIA
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
Message 38
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
If very worried, use a really small bit and center punch the small dimple in
the middle of the rivet. Then drill completely through the rivet. Using a
very small bit makes it very easy to be sure you are dead center and it also
weakens the rivet some. Then follow Dan's advice using the very small hole
as a guide.. It's easy, quick, and works well and does not enlarge the hole
enough to worry about.
Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> over. Once the head of the rivet is broken off you can center punch the
> rest of the rivet out of the hold. This technique takes practice but you
Punching the rivet through once the head is drilled off is often not the
best solution. If the flange (i.e. rib, bulkhead, etc.) on the other side
is "flimsy" at all, it will bow out away from the skin...which is something
you can't really solve easily.
If, after breaking the head off, you give it a light tap with the punch and
it doesn't come out, it's probably best to use the drill. You can use a
3/32" or 1/8" bit. Just drill it straight and you won't have any problems.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: N-Number Sizing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
180 KCAS is the cutoff if I recall correctly. Your RV-10 most likely won't
exceed 180 knots in cruise anyway.
You don't need 12" numbers to fly to Canada or back into the U.S. from
Canada. 3" numbers will suffice. Canada is just about the easiest border
crossing you'll ever do. Just need to carry that letter for homebuilts and
you're good.
And check the AIM/FAR. You need 12" numbers whenever crossing the ADIZ (and
maybe only inbound...check this). When you come back into the U.S. from
Mexico or the Caribbean, you will need 12" numbers.
Some other countries do require 12" numbers. Check local regulations.
As far as the U.S. is concerned you can use temporary numbers, i.e. made
with black electrical tape. Last time I used shoe dye.
Using 3" numbers is one of the "benefits" of having an amateur built plane.
My feeling is...anything that distinctly says "that's a homebuilt" is
something I want to take advantage of. "EXPERIMENTAL...and proud!" Just my
perspective on it.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: N-Number Sizing
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@itecusa.org>
>
> I thought the rule was 200 knots or more.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 4:09 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: N-Number Sizing
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I noticed the Ed McGinty paint job today....very nice indeed. I
> personally like the idea of a lighter canopy but his looks
> fantastic. Glossy too.
>
> The thing that stands out is the small N-numbers though. I realize
> that A) they may be temporary, and B) some people prefer smaller
> numbers, and C) that you may be able to get by with small
> N-numbers and not get in trouble, but....here's what I ran
> across today...
>
> I had my wife search the FAR's to verify the legal requirements.
> They are posted below.
>
> My comments though, I'll limit to a couple of specific lines.
>
> #1: "...or a light-sport aircraft when the maximum cruising speed
> of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS..."
>
> On N410RV, the top speed of that plane is listes as 208mph,
> which is 181 kts. I know, the "cruising" speed won't be
> the same as "top speed", but with the new blended airfoil
> prop being a knot or two faster, your top speed definitely
> will.
>
> #2: (This one is the biggie)
> section (h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft
> penetrating an ADIZ or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft
> temporary or permanent nationality and registration marks at
> least 12 inches high.
>
> Here I think is the largest reason as to why you should
> probably forego small N-numbers and just go 12". Remember
> that the area around Washington DC is currently an ADIZ,
> and there has been a push to make other areas similarly
> restrictive. This law is very un-ambiguous and would
> absolutely mean that you are not welcome to fly a small
> N-numbered plane in those areas. For my plane, I would
> surely not want add the possible future restriction of my
> flyable airspace just to avoid having to put 12" letters
> on my plane.
>
> Again, this isn't pointed at Ed, or anyone else for that
> matter. Just something I walked into today that gave
> me a 100% reason to go 12" lettering.
> Tim
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> 45.29 Size of marks.
> top
>
> (a) Except as provided in paragraph (f) of this section, each operator
> of an aircraft shall display marks on the aircraft meeting the size
> requirements of this section.
>
> (b) Height. Except as provided in paragraph (h) of this part, the
> nationality and registration marks must be of equal height and on-
>
> (1) Fixed-wing aircraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that:
>
> (i) An aircraft displaying marks at least 2 inches high before November
> 1, 1981 and an aircraft manufactured after November 2, 1981, but before
> January 1, 1983, may display those marks until the aircraft is repainted
> or the marks are repainted, restored, or changed;
>
> (ii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on a glider;
>
> (iii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on an aircraft for
> which the FAA has issued an experimental certificate under 21.191 (d),
> 21.191 (g), or 21.191 (i) of this chapter to operate as an exhibition
> aircraft, an amateur-built aircraft, or a light-sport aircraft when the
> maximum cruising speed of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS; and
>
> (iv) Marks may be displayed on an exhibition, antique, or other aircraft
> in accordance with 45.22.
>
> (2) Airships, spherical balloons, nonspherical balloons, powered
> parachutes, and weight-shift-control aircraft must be at least 3 inches
> high; and
>
> (3) Rotorcraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that rotorcraft
> displaying before April 18, 1983, marks required by 45.29(b)(3) in
> effect on April 17, 1983, and rotorcraft manufactured on or after April
> 18, 1983, but before December 31, 1983, may display those marks until
> the aircraft is repainted or the marks are repainted, restored, or
changed.
>
> (c) Width. Characters must be two-thirds as wide as they are high,
> except the number "1", which must be one-sixth as wide as it is high,
> and the letters "M" and "W" which may be as wide as they are high.
>
> (d) Thickness. Characters must be formed by solid lines one-sixth as
> thick as the character is high.
>
> (e) Spacing. The space between each character may not be less than
> one-fourth of the character width.
>
> (f) If either one of the surfaces authorized for displaying required
> marks under 45.25 is large enough for display of marks meeting the size
> requirements of this section and the other is not, full-size marks shall
> be placed on the larger surface. If neither surface is large enough for
> full-size marks, marks as large as practicable shall be displayed on the
> larger of the two surfaces. If any surface authorized to be marked by
> 45.27 is not large enough for full-size marks, marks as large as
> practicable shall be placed on the largest of the authorized surfaces.
>
> (g) Uniformity. The marks required by this part for fixed-wing aircraft
> must have the same height, width, thickness, and spacing on both sides
> of the aircraft.
>
> (h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft penetrating an
> ADIZ or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft temporary or permanent
> nationality and registration marks at least 12 inches high.
>
> [Doc. No. 2047, 29 FR 3223, Mar. 11, 1964, as amended by Amdt. 45-2, 31
> FR 9863, July 21, 1966; Amdt. 45-9, 42 FR 41102, Aug. 15, 1977; Amdt.
> 45-13, 46 FR 48604, Oct. 1, 1981; Amdt. 45-15, 48 FR 11392, Mar. 17,
> 1983; Amdt. 45-17, 52 FR 34102, Sept. 9, 1987; 52 FR 36566, Sept. 30,
> 1987; Amdt. 45-24, 69 FR 44863, July 27, 2004]
>
>
Message 40
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If you are going to purchase a gun,please look into
the Sata 2000 HVLP unit,it is the best !!!!
I just finished painting my RV6,and I can tell you this much,the gun makes all
the difference that you will not
BELIEVE..I have 4 guns,HVLP.. I did the PPG base coat
clear coat Corvette Red and that gun is the HEET
John McMahon (RV6 ready to fly 0360 c/s)
----- Original Message -----
From: William Curtis
To: RV10-List@matronics.com ; tim@MyRV10.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 3:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Paint
Tim,
I considered getting a high end paint gun also, but decided instead to get a
good paint system. I'm guessing you paid a couple of hundered dollars for that
gun, I figure for $900-1100 I can get a complete HVLP system with turbine, respirator,
AND gun. I'm looking at the Axis Citation 4 stage turbine system. No
constant running of my compressor to keep up with the air volume requirements
and no moisture filters to deal with. Just my $0.02.
available here:
William Curtis
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: N-Number Sizing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
>I believe 12" N numbers are required for flight into Canada
>and Mexico. Another reason for the larger numbers.
>
>Larry
Mexico yes, Canada no, but I'm also going with the 12" numbers since I plan to
fly this thing internationally.
Do not archive.
William
#40237 - wings
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/
Message 42
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
The wheel pants are going to reduce a lot of FOD damage to the leading
edge of the Horizontal. Otherwise the top photo with the white basecoat
would be my first choice. Water droplet damage in actual IFR has taken
a toll on many of the plastic L.E.s. The lower cowl represents a slight
modification from factory casting though. Just one more mod and it
could look like a Harmon Rocket 10. Todd's shadow detail work is great.
A strong silver like a Mercedes would do even more than the Navy gray
that Todd has painted the illustration with.
We are all waiting to hear of the First Flight. I want to know the
performance numbers with the MT, cause Jim was never too clear on a back
to back acid test.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
<sschmidt@ussynthetic.com>
I have a friend that has also used Schemedesigners and was very happy.
In fact they did the paint job and found a shop that will do all the
prep work for him (ie. Fill and sand the fiberglass, ect..) I am trying
to find a local place in Salt Lake where I can have mine painted
sometime this summer and then just finish the inside and panel this
fall.
Here are some designs my brother has done for me. He uses Photoshop to
do these.
I'm still not completely bought off on this one but I really like it so
far.
http://www.freedomflyers.com/Paint%20and%20Design.htm
Also, I am going to fill all my rivets. I have already started on the
tail. It takes a lot of time and patience but man are the surfaces nice
and smooth. I figure I will be filling and sanding for 150+ hours but
it will be worth it. The weight will be very very minimal. I would
guess 10 lbs at the most. I am using a product called body icing on the
rivets and anywhere that needs more than a 1/16" I am using some
aluminum filler or just epoxy and fiberglass. Joe Waltz built an RV-8
in Houston and filled his rivets and it looks awesome. He received an
outstanding aircraft award this year at Sun and Fun. Well, back to
sanding and filling and filling and sanding. The way I see it, I have
more time than money.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt@ussynthetic.com
Message 43
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Purchase 30% more metallic paint than required. Box it (Mix it)together
if separately packaged.
Document to paper the air temperature and humidity at the beginning of
the process and again at the end.
Repaints, panel repairs and fastener touch-ups will be much easier down
the road. Clear coat the result, color sand with 1500 grit and then
polish with Meguiars Dual Action Cleaner/Polish and follow up with their
Speed Glaze to eliminate the swirl. Get your local EAA Chapter to
sponsor a Meguiar's night for price point.
Use a really slow action polisher and a light touch on any AN470 rivets
or overlap fairings which can burn through if your not gentle. The
result can match the ole 20 coats of sanded and hand rubbed Acrylic
Lacquer before California gave us all grey hair and forced chemical
reformulation. All paints are porous, keep the sealed with a favorite
wax.
Your solution is a great economizer to a winning finish coat.
P.S. Randy went with GMC 2004 Pick-up truck white which makes that
touchup five years from now a breeze.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Paint
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Me? I'd probably be happy to pay about $1000 for a paint job if
I did all the prep, or $2500 if someone else did. Ok, so shoot
me for even thinking that's reasonable, but.....remember that
most painters will tell you that good preparation is 90% of
what makes a good paint job. So, if you're gonna prep yourself,
then you're still responsible for the majority of how good it
turns out. Also, while I think a good hand on the paint gun
will greatly add to how consistently good a paint job will be,
I think there are also many great paint jobs painted by people
who did them theirselves. In the discussions that I've watched,
it sounds like I would more reasonably expect to spend a bare
MINIMUM of $5000 for a professional paint job, with more likely
$6000-8000 being the total. For me, I'd MUCH rather put that
into something that I will see INSIDE the cockpit, that has
a chance of adding to safety....like the avionics.
I also had the benefit of going to Randy's house and looking
at his empennage parts that he painted. They looked pretty
good. So, then I realized that a person can actually do
a good job if they try. Worst case, you sand a lot extra
and spray extra paint, but it should easily be do-able if you
don't get too outrageous.
One other deciding factor is that I intend to paint before
assembly. This should greatly simplify the painting of
the fuselage, and the wings and control surfaces.
I will point out one exception that I might try for though.
My blue and silver will probably be metallics, and I've
got a contact name to call for a guy who's painted planes
and works days in a body shop. I'm thinking of offering him
$300-500 to do just the Blue and Silver striping, after
I paint the white base. Now that should be a pretty
good deal.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 44
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Randy has a computer vinyl cutter. All we need now are VAN's Autocad
coordinates for him. Just think a whole new world with glass bead
vinyl, gold leaf or spectrum tape accent striping.
Randy, give us a price. I've got the 2005 Computer Graphics Pricing
Guide and product selection book, if your game. We can direct RV-10
builders to their local supplier and set you up in a moonlight business
now that you are getting rusty bucking rivets and flying off hours on
the IO-540.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RE: Paint
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
<Tdawson@Avidyne.com>
Another option is what the OEMs do: paint the base coat and get some
high-quality vinyl graphics to do the fancy stripes . . .
TDT
Message 45
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Water spray, squeegee, grease pencil, transfer tape, a keen eye and
patience.
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RE: Paint
Anybody know a source for the vinyl graphics? Painting the plane a
single color seems like it should be within my abilities, but much
beyond that... Also, how difficult is it to apply the graphics?
Bob #40105
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