Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:11 AM - First six (John Jessen)
2. 04:47 AM - Re: Sherwin Williams 988 Primer (aeroads@comcast.net)
3. 05:41 AM - Re: Wire Tool (Marcus Cooper)
4. 06:13 AM - Re: Wire Tool (Tim Olson)
5. 06:24 AM - Re: First six (bob.kaufmann)
6. 07:40 AM - Re: Sherwin Williams 988 Primer (Dj Merrill)
7. 08:04 AM - What I did with priming (James Hein)
8. 09:04 AM - Re: Wire Tool (Sean Stephens)
9. 09:23 AM - Re: Wire Tool (Sean Stephens)
10. 09:32 AM - Re: What I did with priming (aeroads@comcast.net)
11. 09:51 AM - J-Stiffeners (Rene)
12. 09:56 AM - missing parts (brian bollaert)
13. 10:33 AM - Re: First six (John Jessen)
14. 11:19 AM - Re: First six (Mark Grieve)
15. 12:03 PM - Re: J-Stiffeners (bruce snyder)
16. 12:24 PM - Re: J-Stiffeners (John Hasbrouck)
17. 12:27 PM - Re: First six (John Hasbrouck)
18. 02:54 PM - Re: First six (Dj Merrill)
19. 03:33 PM - Re: Wire Tool ()
20. 03:35 PM - Re: First six ()
21. 03:38 PM - Re: Wire Tool ()
22. 03:39 PM - Re: First six (JOHN STARN)
23. 04:19 PM - Re: Wire Tool (Brcue Patton)
24. 05:55 PM - Re: Traffic Scope (was missing parts) (Larry)
25. 07:52 PM - Re: Wire Tool (John W. Cox)
26. 08:07 PM - Re: missing parts (Tim Olson)
27. 09:54 PM - Re: What I did with priming (Tim Olson)
28. 10:01 PM - Interior Painting / Andair Fuel Valve (Tim Olson)
29. 10:07 PM - Re: First six (BBreckenridge@att.net)
30. 10:19 PM - RV-10 Panel Rib modification (Tim Olson)
31. 11:40 PM - Re: Interior Painting / Andair Fuel Valve (Greg Young)
Message 1
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d="scan'208"; a="46085210:sNHT17393152"
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
First six rivets done. How many more?
John Jessen
(VS riveting begun)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Sherwin Williams 988 Primer |
Re Dj Merrill prime Just ready to order emp. kit and have been agonizing over
the etch alodyne prime issue did you simple clean your parts and spray
with the Sherwin Williams 988? and your are satisfied? many thanks for
the posting Murray Randall
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill
>
> Thought I would report back to the group
> on my experience with the Sherwin Williams 988
> self-etching primer in a rattle can.
>
> Overall, I like it. It has a special
> nozzle, and is very easy to apply (and apply
> where you want it). It is easy to work with, and
> no special worries about chemical issues, although
> as with anything of this nature you'd want to
> wear gloves and a good breathing mask or respirator.
> It is easy to apply and get a good even coat without
> runs.
>
> If you are working with your parts within
> a day or two of priming, you can scratch it.
> However, after it has set for a few days, it seems to
> harden up quite well, and is not so prone to
> easy scratching. I just did a little touch-up
> on the places I scratched when assembling.
>
> I won't know for a few years how it
> lasts over time, but so far I am happy with my
> decision to use it.
>
> Just thought I'd share...
>
> -Dj
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Re Dj Merrill prime Just ready to order emp. kit and have been agonizing over the
etch alodyne prime issue did you simple clean your parts and spray with the
Sherwin Williams 988? and your are satisfied? many thanks for the posting Murray
Randall
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <DEEJ@THAYER.DARTMOUTH.EDU>
Thought I would report back to the group
on my experience with the Sherwin Williams 988
self-etching primer in a rattle can.
Overall, I like it. It has a special
nozzle, and is very easy to apply (and apply
where you want it). It is easy to work with, and
no special worries about chemical issues, although
as with anything of this nature you'd want to
wear gloves and a good breathing mask or respirator.
It is easy to apply and get a good even coat without
runs.
If you are working with your parts within
a day or two of priming, you can scratch it.
However, after it has set for a few days, it seems to
E>
Message 3
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
John,
Could you post the model number of the stripper you were discussing. The
link didn't work and they have a number of wire strippers that appear to cut
down to 22AWG.
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wire Tool
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=7205&group
_ID=796&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
This was the stripper that most of the A&P students would pop for from
Snap-on. The quality of build, the quality to stripped insulation, the
correct size cut on the insulation on the AWG scale and their
replacement policy was a professional decision. Buy it once, buy it for
life.
John - KUAO
P.S. I have five different strippers in my toolbox and this one is used
for the quality work. It is a little heavy to hold on the 22AWG but
gets in great in real tight locations anywhere (even in blind strip
operations).
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wire Tool
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Wow, that stripper (T-Stripper 45-121) is only $10 online!
<http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/scripts/product/4440-0015>
If it works as good as you say for $10, that's a steal!
-Sean
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>
>
>>Thanks, I've been leaning towards that one, but just wanted to make
sure
>>it worked ok with Tefzel. I see on Dan C.'s Tool section of his site,
he
>>has the same I think.
>>
>>
>
>I do have the same one (the "automatic" stripper from Cleaveland) and I
*DO
>NOT* use it on my aircraft wires. In my experience, it leaves notches
in
>the insulation which in some cases fully penetrated the insulation.
>
>The stripper I use is the Ideal T-Stripper 45-121. Totally manual. I
>bought mine from Fry's if I remember correctly.
>
>http://www.idealindustries.co.uk/index.cfm?pid=14&op=dsp&pk=13878&fk=34
2
>
>The "automatic" stripper is in the tool bin for non-critical stuff
(jeez,
>what's non-critical on your plane? in other words, I never use mine).
The
>last thing I want to see are breaks in my insulation. Your mileage
>definitely may vary. I may have tried this on 22AWG and tossed it. It
may
>acually work fine on larger gauge, or thicker insulation...or
something.
>Anyway, try it and see if you like it. You might, you might not.
>
>I believe you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to wire
>strippers. The expensive ones are expensive because they WORK. I'm
too
>cheap to splurge on the nice stuff. If I made wire harnesses for a
living
>that would be a different story...
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Marcus,
Microsoft products don't properly wrap link lines when you paste them
into mail. If you copy and paste the 2 sections in the link up into
the browser, it would work. Here, I'll do it for you with my
non-microsoft Mozilla Thunderbird that doesn't cause this issue...
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=7205&group_ID=796&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
or
http://tinyurl.com/aoh2f should work too.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> John,
> Could you post the model number of the stripper you were discussing. The
> link didn't work and they have a number of wire strippers that appear to cut
> down to 22AWG.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 10:44 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wire Tool
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
> http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=7205&group
> _ID=796&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
>
> This was the stripper that most of the A&P students would pop for from
> Snap-on. The quality of build, the quality to stripped insulation, the
> correct size cut on the insulation on the AWG scale and their
> replacement policy was a professional decision. Buy it once, buy it for
> life.
>
> John - KUAO
>
> P.S. I have five different strippers in my toolbox and this one is used
> for the quality work. It is a little heavy to hold on the 22AWG but
> gets in great in real tight locations anywhere (even in blind strip
> operations).
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 7:06 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wire Tool
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Wow, that stripper (T-Stripper 45-121) is only $10 online!
>
> <http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/scripts/product/4440-0015>
>
> If it works as good as you say for $10, that's a steal!
>
> -Sean
>
> Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Thanks, I've been leaning towards that one, but just wanted to make
>
> sure
>
>>>it worked ok with Tefzel. I see on Dan C.'s Tool section of his site,
>
> he
>
>>>has the same I think.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>I do have the same one (the "automatic" stripper from Cleaveland) and I
>
> *DO
>
>>NOT* use it on my aircraft wires. In my experience, it leaves notches
>
> in
>
>>the insulation which in some cases fully penetrated the insulation.
>>
>>The stripper I use is the Ideal T-Stripper 45-121. Totally manual. I
>>bought mine from Fry's if I remember correctly.
>>
>>http://www.idealindustries.co.uk/index.cfm?pid=14&op=dsp&pk=13878&fk=34
>
> 2
>
>>The "automatic" stripper is in the tool bin for non-critical stuff
>
> (jeez,
>
>>what's non-critical on your plane? in other words, I never use mine).
>
> The
>
>>last thing I want to see are breaks in my insulation. Your mileage
>>definitely may vary. I may have tried this on 22AWG and tossed it. It
>
> may
>
>>acually work fine on larger gauge, or thicker insulation...or
>
> something.
>
>>Anyway, try it and see if you like it. You might, you might not.
>>
>>I believe you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to wire
>>strippers. The expensive ones are expensive because they WORK. I'm
>
> too
>
>>cheap to splurge on the nice stuff. If I made wire harnesses for a
>
> living
>
>>that would be a different story...
>>
>>)_( Dan
>>RV-7 N714D
>>http://www.rvproject.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 5
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Exacrty 17,000,984 rivets to go, but some of them are pop rivets.
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: First six
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
First six rivets done. How many more?
John Jessen
(VS riveting begun)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Sherwin Williams 988 Primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
aeroads@comcast.net wrote:
> Re Dj Merrill prime Just ready to order emp. kit and have been
> agonizing over the etch alodyne prime issue did you simple clean
> your parts and spray with the Sherwin Williams 988? and your are
> satisfied? many thanks for the posting Murray Randall
Yes, that's all I did, cleaned with denatured
alcohol and sprayed with the primer.
Keep in mind that this is my first time
building and I have zero experience prior to this,
other than the research I have done on the topic
over the past year.
Priming is as bad as the Ford-Chevy argument.
*I'm* satisfied, but there are plenty of others
who would not be. *grin*
-Dj
Message 7
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d="scan'208"; a="1132656986:sNHT16697560"
| Subject: | What I did with priming |
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <n8vim@arrl.net>
What I did in regards to priming is to Alodine all parts I could, then
spray with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer. I have worked on my own cars with
the "self etching" primers before and I am less than satisfied with
them. In my experience, even if you properly clean and scuff the
surface, the primer will eventually fail several years down the road.
I've learned from experience. Of course, my cars stay out in the weather
24x7x365.... Your mileage may vary...
My search for a zinc chromate epoxy primer was fruitless.. It seems
nobody sells it anymore (at least not in less than 30 Gal. barrels), so
I decided to Alodine to get the chromate. The company I work for makes
portable blood gas analyzers (medical equipment) and we Alodine all our
aluminium chassis and I have seen how well it holds up even after 15 years.
Why did I go with PPG DP50LF primer? That's an easy one... First, I
wanted an epoxy primer. I looked at AZKO, but it said "for interior use
only"... I wanted an Exterior quality primer, and again my experience on
my cars told me that the PPG epoxy primer holds up well. It is expensive
($30/qt, + $30/pt catalyst + $40/gal thinner (you mix it 2:1:0.5
primer:catalyst:thinner:)) but after years on my cars it has held up well.
One more tip: I was going through primer like it was going out of style,
even with a small touchup gun. I went to the hobby shop and bought a
good airbrush ($80) and now I can do parts one at a time, instead of
"batching" the paint jobs and it has so little overspray all you need is
a piece of newspaper behind what you spray. Even on the H.S. Spar it
works very well. I mixed 3oz (before spraying) and could prime the front
HS spar, the spar doubler, the spar caps, the attach brackets, and still
have about 1/2 oz. left over.
-Jim 40384, just primed HS. Front spar parts....
Dj Merrill wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
>
> aeroads@comcast.net wrote:
>
>> Re Dj Merrill prime Just ready to order emp. kit and have been
>> agonizing over the etch alodyne prime issue did you simple clean
>> your parts and spray with the Sherwin Williams 988? and your are
>> satisfied? many thanks for the posting Murray Randall
>
>
> Yes, that's all I did, cleaned with denatured
> alcohol and sprayed with the primer.
>
> Keep in mind that this is my first time
> building and I have zero experience prior to this,
> other than the research I have done on the topic
> over the past year.
>
> Priming is as bad as the Ford-Chevy argument.
> *I'm* satisfied, but there are plenty of others
> who would not be. *grin*
>
> -Dj
>
>
Message 8
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Another way to make sure long URLs are not broken is to surround them by
<> such as...
<http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=7205&group_ID=796&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog>
-Sean
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Marcus,
>
> Microsoft products don't properly wrap link lines when you paste them
> into mail. If you copy and paste the 2 sections in the link up into
> the browser, it would work. Here, I'll do it for you with my
> non-microsoft Mozilla Thunderbird that doesn't cause this issue...
> http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=7205&group_ID=796&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
>
>
> or
>
> http://tinyurl.com/aoh2f should work too.
> Tim
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> John,
>> Could you post the model number of the stripper you were
>> discussing. The
>> link didn't work and they have a number of wire strippers that appear
>> to cut
>> down to 22AWG.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Marcus
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
>> Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 10:44 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wire Tool
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>>
>> http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=7205&group
>> _ID=796&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
>>
>> This was the stripper that most of the A&P students would pop for from
>> Snap-on. The quality of build, the quality to stripped insulation, the
>> correct size cut on the insulation on the AWG scale and their
>> replacement policy was a professional decision. Buy it once, buy it for
>> life.
>>
>> John - KUAO
>>
>> P.S. I have five different strippers in my toolbox and this one is used
>> for the quality work. It is a little heavy to hold on the 22AWG but
>> gets in great in real tight locations anywhere (even in blind strip
>> operations).
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
>> Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 7:06 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wire Tool
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>>
>> Wow, that stripper (T-Stripper 45-121) is only $10 online!
>>
>> <http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/scripts/product/4440-0015>
>>
>> If it works as good as you say for $10, that's a steal!
>>
>> -Sean
>>
>> Dan Checkoway wrote:
>>
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Thanks, I've been leaning towards that one, but just wanted to make
>>>
>>
>> sure
>>
>>>> it worked ok with Tefzel. I see on Dan C.'s Tool section of his site,
>>>
>>
>> he
>>
>>>> has the same I think.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I do have the same one (the "automatic" stripper from Cleaveland) and I
>>
>>
>> *DO
>>
>>> NOT* use it on my aircraft wires. In my experience, it leaves notches
>>
>>
>> in
>>
>>> the insulation which in some cases fully penetrated the insulation.
>>>
>>> The stripper I use is the Ideal T-Stripper 45-121. Totally manual. I
>>> bought mine from Fry's if I remember correctly.
>>>
>>> http://www.idealindustries.co.uk/index.cfm?pid=14&op=dsp&pk=13878&fk=34
>>
>>
>> 2
>>
>>> The "automatic" stripper is in the tool bin for non-critical stuff
>>
>>
>> (jeez,
>>
>>> what's non-critical on your plane? in other words, I never use mine).
>>
>>
>> The
>>
>>> last thing I want to see are breaks in my insulation. Your mileage
>>> definitely may vary. I may have tried this on 22AWG and tossed it. It
>>
>>
>> may
>>
>>> acually work fine on larger gauge, or thicker insulation...or
>>
>>
>> something.
>>
>>> Anyway, try it and see if you like it. You might, you might not.
>>>
>>> I believe you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to wire
>>> strippers. The expensive ones are expensive because they WORK. I'm
>>
>>
>> too
>>
>>> cheap to splurge on the nice stuff. If I made wire harnesses for a
>>
>>
>> living
>>
>>> that would be a different story...
>>>
>>> )_( Dan
>>> RV-7 N714D
>>> http://www.rvproject.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
This is where I get a little confused.
I was under the impression that die-type blades are better for Tefzel as
opposed to knife-type blades. Hence the more expensive Ideal
Stripmaster 45-174 would be required for most of our aircraft wiring.
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=64024&item=5732895463&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V>
Are die-type blades really not required for Tefzel?
-Sean
John W. Cox wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
>http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=7205&group
>_ID=796&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
>
>This was the stripper that most of the A&P students would pop for from
>Snap-on. The quality of build, the quality to stripped insulation, the
>correct size cut on the insulation on the AWG scale and their
>replacement policy was a professional decision. Buy it once, buy it for
>life.
>
>John - KUAO
>
>P.S. I have five different strippers in my toolbox and this one is used
>for the quality work. It is a little heavy to hold on the 22AWG but
>gets in great in real tight locations anywhere (even in blind strip
>operations).
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: What I did with priming |
How's this I alumiprep soak, alodine soak the ribs, and all smaller parts
and no primer on the alodined parts HS spar I could do in a plastic sheet
lined box I've used the airbrush and been happy a bit slow but yeah no
overspray thanks for the help I have built a basically wood amphibian
but the aluminum is all new and all advice is greatly appreciated thanks
Murray Randall
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein
>
> What I did in regards to priming is to Alodine all parts I could, then
> spray with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer. I have worked on my own cars with
> the "self etching" primers before and I am less than satisfied with
> them. In my experience, even if you properly clean and scuff the
> surface, the primer will eventually fail several years down the road.
> I've learned from experience. Of course, my cars stay out in the weather
> 24x7x365.... Your mileage may vary...
>
> My search for a zinc chromate epoxy primer was fruitless.. It seems
> nobody sells it anymore (at least not in less than 30 Gal. barrels), so
> I decided to Alodine to get the chromate. The company I work for makes
> portable blood gas analyzers (medical equipment) and we Alodine all our
> aluminium chassis and I have seen how well it holds up even after 15 years.
>
> Why did I go with PPG DP50LF primer? That's an easy one... First, I
> wanted an epoxy primer. I looked at AZKO, but it said "for interior use
> only"... I wanted an Exterior quality primer, and again my experience on
> my cars told me that the PPG epoxy primer holds up well. It is expensive
> ($30/qt, + $30/pt catalyst + $40/gal thinner (you mix it 2:1:0.5
> primer:catalyst:thinner:)) but after years on my cars it has held up well.
>
> One more tip: I was going through primer like it was going out of style,
> even with a small touchup gun. I went to the hobby shop and bought a
> good airbrush ($80) and now I can do parts one at a time, instead of
> "batching" the paint jobs and it has so little overspray all you need is
> a piece of newspaper behind what you spray. Even on the H.S. Spar it
> works very well. I mixed 3oz (before spraying) and could prime the front
> HS spar, the spar doubler, the spar caps, the attach brackets, and still
> have about 1/2 oz. left over.
>
> -Jim 40384, just primed HS. Front spar parts....
>
> Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill
> >
> > aeroads@comcast.net wrote:
> >
> >> Re Dj Merrill prime Just ready to order emp. kit and have been
> >> agonizing over the etch alodyne prime issue did you simple clean
> >> your parts and spray with the Sherwin Williams 988? and your are
> >> satisfied? many thanks for the posting Murray Randall
> >
> >
> > Yes, that's all I did, cleaned with denatured
> > alcohol and sprayed with the primer.
> >
> > Keep in mind that this is my first time
> > building and I have zero experience prior to this,
> > other than the research I have done on the topic
> > over the past year.
> >
> > Priming is as bad as the Ford-Chevy argument.
> > *I'm* satisfied, but there are plenty of others
> > who would not be. *grin*
> >
> > -Dj
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
How's this I alumiprep soak, alodine soak the ribs, and all smaller parts and no
primer on the alodined parts HS spar I could do in a plastic sheet lined box
I've used the airbrush and been happy a bit slow but yeah no overspray thanks
for the help I have built abasically wood amphibian but the aluminum is all new
and all advice is greatly appreciatedthanks Murray Randall
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV10-List message posted by: James Hein <N8VIM@ARRL.NET>
What I did in regards to priming is to Alodine all parts I could, then
spray with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer. I have worked on my own cars with
the "self etching" primers before and I am less than satisfied with
them. In my experience, even if you properly clean and scuff the
surface, the primer will eventually fail several years down the road.
I've learned from experience. Of course, my cars stay out in the weather
24x7x365.... Your mileage may vary...
My search for a zinc chromate epoxy primer was fruitless.. It seems
nobody sells it anymore (at least not in less than 30 Gal. barrels), so
I decided to Alodine to get the chromate. The company I work for makes
&
gt; portable blood gas analyzers (medical equipment) and we Alodine all our
aluminium chassis and I have seen how well it holds up even after 15 years.
Why did I go with PPG DP50LF primer? That's an easy one... First, I
wanted an epoxy primer. I looked at AZKO, but it said "for interior use
only"... I wanted an Exterior quality primer, and again my experience on
my cars told me that the PPG epoxy primer holds up well. It is expensive
($30/qt, + $30/pt catalyst + $40/gal thinner (you mix it 2:1:0.5
primer:catalyst:thinner:)) but after years on my cars it has held up well.
One more tip: I was going through primer like it was going out of style,
even with a small touchup gun. I went to the hobby shop and bought a
good airbrush ($80) and now I can do parts one at a time, instead of
"batching" the paint jobs and it has so little overspray all you need is
a
piece of newspaper behind what you spray. Even on the H.S. Spar it
works very well. I mixed 3oz (before spraying) and could prime the front
HS spar, the spar doubler, the spar caps, the attach brackets, and still
have about 1/2 oz. left over.
-Jim 40384, just primed HS. Front spar parts....
Dj Merrill wrote:
-- RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <DEEJ@THAYER.DARTMOUTH.EDU>
aeroads@comcast.net wrote:
Re Dj Merrill prime Just ready to order emp. kit and have been
agonizing over the etch alodyne prime issue did you simple clean
your parts and spray with the Sherwin Williams 988? and your are
satisfied? many thanks for the posting Murray Randall
Yes, that's all I did, cleaned with denatured
alcohol and sprayed with the
Message 11
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Need a little help with the J-Stiffeners for the wing kit. One of each size
stiffener is marked with two circles next to each other about every 3 feet.
Is this normal? Is the stiffener good? I have all ready cut them and now I
am stuck until I can figure out if I messed something up and if the
stiffeners are good. I can not find a reference in the drawings. Thanks in
advance.
Rene'
N423CF
40322
Middle of wings...
Message 12
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To the group & Tim O to add to the missing list:
While working on the piano hing for the cowl this sat the attach shims that you
are to make were not in the inv (41-7) also the replacement stainless steel pin
material for the hinges was not in the inv, the pin material that comes with
the hinges that are supplied is aluminum (and must be changed out ) a low tech
way to tell (magnet)
Also page 32-5 no bushings 2 called for sb625-7 ,had to rob some from the tailcone
kit . keep in mind i have the QB fuse , not shure on the slow build ,
Will be calling vans monday.
As a sideline i like the idea of using the anywhere map and the traffic scope vrx and there xm weather http://www.anywheremap.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID36 much less costly than chelton weather etc and i like the idea of being able to take it out of the plane when i want , also you have battery backup
Missing parts list GROWING
Brian Bollaert
Message 13
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d="scan'208"; a="46182631:sNHT5695917798"
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
First six rivets in. First three drilled out. Hmmmm. Measure twice, cut
once works here, too.
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob.kaufmann
Subject: RE: RV10-List: First six
--> RV10-List message posted by: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Exacrty 17,000,984 rivets to go, but some of them are pop rivets.
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: First six
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
First six rivets done. How many more?
John Jessen
(VS riveting begun)
Message 14
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
John,
Don't feel bad. The first dozen rivets are the most difficult to get
right. I recall starting a project this way: drive 10 rivets and drill
out 3. drive those 3 and drill out one. drive that one again and drill
it out oversized. drive the oversized rivet and declare it good enough.
The fun came a month later when we skinned the HS and drove 500 rivets
in one day. We would have done the last 100 but I had to leave to go
dancing. Priorities you know!
It might help to turn the air pressure down and work in shorter bursts.
Do not archive
Mark
John Jessen wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
>First six rivets in. First three drilled out. Hmmmm. Measure twice, cut
>once works here, too.
>
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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Rene,
I've seen this on some of my J-Stiffeners in the emp kit and with the wing
kit. Looks like a punch tool started to make a hole and stopped shortly
after coming in contact with the metal. I just ground out the rough edges
and moved on. Don't think it will be a problem.
Bruce Snyder
40353
Wings
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Subject: RV10-List: J-Stiffeners
Need a little help with the J-Stiffeners for the wing kit. One of each size
stiffener is marked with two circles next to each other about every 3 feet.
Is this normal? Is the stiffener good? I have all ready cut them and now I
am stuck until I can figure out if I messed something up and if the
stiffeners are good. I can not find a reference in the drawings. Thanks in
advance.
Rene'
N423CF
40322
Middle of wings...
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: J-Stiffeners |
Rene,
One of my "J" stiffeners was the same as you describe. Looked like a mark
left over from the manufacturing process. I just polished mine out and went
on with the build. They weren't that deep..........john
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Tank sealant up to my elbows.
Message 17
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck@woh.rr.com>
John,
That's right! My method, FWIW, is to measure twice, cut once, expletive
deleted, call Van's for another piece. Worked well so far! ;)
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Message 18
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--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
John Jessen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> First six rivets in. First three drilled out. Hmmmm. Measure twice, cut
> once works here, too.
>
> do not archive
Only twice? I'm envious! :-)
Don't feel bad. I had one rivet that I
drilled out five, yes, FIVE times. The sixth time
it set it was still not perfect, but better than
the previous 5 tries, so I left it.
-Dj
Message 19
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <ricksked@earthlink.net>
In the Mil-Spec aviation electrics, any nicks or clipping off the strands
(depending on who's watching and who has the integrity to do it right) would
result in a rejected wire. Now I'm not saying that if you nick a strand or
tear off a few strands while stripping is reason the be concerned, it was
just the way I was taught and I never lost any sleep about if I did it
correctly because I adhered to that rule. Besides it was on
fighters/bombers/transports old & new (analog and digital systems) not GA
aircraft. I am holding myself to the same standard now. I have used the
Delta Dental strippers from time to time I must admit. :)
As usual just 2 cents worth.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Ochs" <jochs@froody.org>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wire Tool
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "James Ochs" <jochs@froody.org>
>
> Back in a previous life when I was an electrician, that was all we would
> use. It was the Ideal t-stripper or a pocket knife, or your teeth. Of
> course this was residential or commercial work and not airplanes ;).
> Pretty
> much all the other strippers like that wind up either not getting through
> the jacket or scoring the strands / wires underneath. The other two
> methods
> listed above actually worked better than the cheapie stripper models.
>
> Just my .02
>
> Do not archive
>
> James
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 7:06 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wire Tool
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Wow, that stripper (T-Stripper 45-121) is only $10 online!
>
> <http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/scripts/product/4440-0015>
>
> If it works as good as you say for $10, that's a steal!
>
> -Sean
>
> Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Thanks, I've been leaning towards that one, but just wanted to make sure
>>>it worked ok with Tefzel. I see on Dan C.'s Tool section of his site, he
>>>has the same I think.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>I do have the same one (the "automatic" stripper from Cleaveland) and I
>>*DO
>>NOT* use it on my aircraft wires. In my experience, it leaves notches in
>>the insulation which in some cases fully penetrated the insulation.
>>
>>The stripper I use is the Ideal T-Stripper 45-121. Totally manual. I
>>bought mine from Fry's if I remember correctly.
>>
>>http://www.idealindustries.co.uk/index.cfm?pid=14&op=dsp&pk=13878&fk=342
>>
>>The "automatic" stripper is in the tool bin for non-critical stuff (jeez,
>>what's non-critical on your plane? in other words, I never use mine).
>>The
>>last thing I want to see are breaks in my insulation. Your mileage
>>definitely may vary. I may have tried this on 22AWG and tossed it. It
>>may
>>acually work fine on larger gauge, or thicker insulation...or something.
>>Anyway, try it and see if you like it. You might, you might not.
>>
>>I believe you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to wire
>>strippers. The expensive ones are expensive because they WORK. I'm too
>>cheap to splurge on the nice stuff. If I made wire harnesses for a living
>>that would be a different story...
>>
>>)_( Dan
>>RV-7 N714D
>>http://www.rvproject.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 20
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <ricksked@earthlink.net>
John,
At your stage it feels a lot better to just think you have about 5 lbs of
rivets to go...sounds better than 25,000.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: First six
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
>
> First six rivets done. How many more?
>
> John Jessen
> (VS riveting begun)
>
>
>
Message 21
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--> RV10-List message posted by: <ricksked@earthlink.net>
lol....thanks for that one!!!
Rick S.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson@avidyne.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wire Tool
I met a $10 stripper once . . .
TDT
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wire Tool
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
Wow, that stripper (T-Stripper 45-121) is only $10 online!
<http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/scripts/product/4440-0015>
If it works as good as you say for $10, that's a steal!
-Sean
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>
>>Thanks, I've been leaning towards that one, but just wanted to make sure
>>it worked ok with Tefzel. I see on Dan C.'s Tool section of his site, he
>>has the same I think.
>>
>>
>
>I do have the same one (the "automatic" stripper from Cleaveland) and I *DO
>NOT* use it on my aircraft wires. In my experience, it leaves notches in
>the insulation which in some cases fully penetrated the insulation.
>
>The stripper I use is the Ideal T-Stripper 45-121. Totally manual. I
>bought mine from Fry's if I remember correctly.
>
>http://www.idealindustries.co.uk/index.cfm?pid=14&op=dsp&pk=13878&fk=342
>
>The "automatic" stripper is in the tool bin for non-critical stuff (jeez,
>what's non-critical on your plane? in other words, I never use mine). The
>last thing I want to see are breaks in my insulation. Your mileage
>definitely may vary. I may have tried this on 22AWG and tossed it. It may
>acually work fine on larger gauge, or thicker insulation...or something.
>Anyway, try it and see if you like it. You might, you might not.
>
>I believe you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to wire
>strippers. The expensive ones are expensive because they WORK. I'm too
>cheap to splurge on the nice stuff. If I made wire harnesses for a living
>that would be a different story...
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
====================================
====================================
Message 22
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<42ACAEF1.6070707@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
This thread kinda reminds me of my building partners old saying.
"Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with a piece of chalk & cut it with
an ax."
While building N561FS we recalled to ourselves several times the words of
the great John Harmon, "Just make it work".
Remember, your building an airplane not a Swiss watch. Do you want to build
on it forever or fly it soon ?. KABONG 8*) Do Not Archive (GBA & GWB)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dj Merrill" <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: First six
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
>
> John Jessen wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>>
>> First six rivets in. First three drilled out. Hmmmm. Measure twice,
>> cut
>> once works here, too.
Message 23
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=OjiPvhaq9J8m1bLInSMrsMIkZWQnSGqwUg1SdBtSEbC1D0G4nvyGyfvEZJ8DcY019c5BubJ4n/sIoH6J3AN7J2h4X2zth1JZB70fe19E7ugaDhU1iV9JgHtIBzUFakAQkngCtRQU22YIO+GqmruwgR4FNKg9M6/T7Mnd1hs4N9s=
;
In the late 60's, early 70's, the Air Force started losing Agena Satellites on
launch, built by Lockheed in Sunnyvale. Checking into production line, they
found mechanics stripping wire with everything from pocket knives to their teeth.
All failures were electrical wire in nature. Almost cost Lockheed the Agena
program, and cost us taxpayers a bunch. Good tools pay.
Bruce Patton
do not archive
ricksked@earthlink.net wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by:
In the Mil-Spec aviation electrics, any nicks or clipping off the strands
(depending on who's watching and who has the integrity to do it right) would
result in a rejected wire. Now I'm not saying that if you nick a strand or
tear off a few strands while stripping is reason the be concerned, it was
just the way I was taught and I never lost any sleep about if I did it
correctly because I adhered to that rule. Besides it was on
fighters/bombers/transports old & new (analog and digital systems) not GA
aircraft. I am holding myself to the same standard now. I have used the
Delta Dental strippers from time to time I must admit. :)
As usual just 2 cents worth.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Ochs"
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wire Tool
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "James Ochs"
>
> Back in a previous life when I was an electrician, that was all we would
> use. It was the Ideal t-stripper or a pocket knife, or your teeth. Of
> course this was residential or commercial work and not airplanes ;).
> Pretty
> much all the other strippers like that wind up either not getting through
> the jacket or scoring the strands / wires underneath. The other two
> methods
> listed above actually worked better than the cheapie stripper models.
>
> Just my .02
>
> Do not archive
>
> James
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 7:06 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wire Tool
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
>
> Wow, that stripper (T-Stripper 45-121) is only $10 online!
>
>
>
> If it works as good as you say for $10, that's a steal!
>
> -Sean
>
> Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
>>
>>
>>
>>>Thanks, I've been leaning towards that one, but just wanted to make sure
>>>it worked ok with Tefzel. I see on Dan C.'s Tool section of his site, he
>>>has the same I think.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>I do have the same one (the "automatic" stripper from Cleaveland) and I
>>*DO
>>NOT* use it on my aircraft wires. In my experience, it leaves notches in
>>the insulation which in some cases fully penetrated the insulation.
>>
>>The stripper I use is the Ideal T-Stripper 45-121. Totally manual. I
>>bought mine from Fry's if I remember correctly.
>>
>>http://www.idealindustries.co.uk/index.cfm?pid=14&op=dsp&pk=13878&fk=342
>>
>>The "automatic" stripper is in the tool bin for non-critical stuff (jeez,
>>what's non-critical on your plane? in other words, I never use mine).
>>The
>>last thing I want to see are breaks in my insulation. Your mileage
>>definitely may vary. I may have tried this on 22AWG and tossed it. It
>>may
>>acually work fine on larger gauge, or thicker insulation...or something.
>>Anyway, try it and see if you like it. You might, you might not.
>>
>>I believe you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to wire
>>strippers. The expensive ones are expensive because they WORK. I'm too
>>cheap to splurge on the nice stuff. If I made wire harnesses for a living
>>that would be a different story...
>>
>>)_( Dan
>>RV-7 N714D
>>http://www.rvproject.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Traffic Scope (was missing parts) |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Larry <LarryRosen@comcast.net>
My neighbor flys with the Traffic Scope VRX. It does a FINE job. They
also make an adapter to panel mount the unit, easy for our experimental
aircraft. No field approval required. :-)
Larry
brian bollaert wrote:
> To the group & Tim O to add to the missing list:
>
> While working on the piano hing for the cowl this sat the attach shims
> that you are to make were not in the inv (41-7) also the replacement
> stainless steel pin material for the hinges was not in the inv, the
> pin material that comes with the hinges that are supplied is aluminum
> (and must be changed out ) a low tech way to tell (magnet)
> Also page 32-5 no bushings 2 called for sb625-7 ,had to rob some from
> the tailcone kit . keep in mind i have the QB fuse , not shure on the
> slow build ,
>
> Will be calling vans monday.
>
> As a sideline i like the idea of using the anywhere map and the
> traffic scope vrx and there xm weather
> http://www.anywheremap.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=36 much less
> costly than chelton weather etc and i like the idea of being able to
> take it out of the plane when i want , also you have battery backup
>
>
>
>
> Missing parts list GROWING
>
> Brian Bollaert
>
>
Message 25
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--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Ochs! Tim hurt me with my stupid Outlook 2003 using MS Word as the text
editor. And I knew better than paste a damn URL without bracketing it
and testing the link first before sending.
Mea Culpa. The model is PWC27. The perceived advantage is the ability
to strip in tight confines without having to move the wrist laterally
along the wire length (pulling on the wire or what it used to be
attached too. Just squeeze to get the stripping action, it locks on the
wiring insulation and removes the exact length you set it from the
opposite side. A simple squeeze and it makes a perfect insulation cut
and removal of the surplus insulation.
When working leads deep in the empennage, or inverted under your panel,
or on the back of the engine under a MAG. The tight confine feature and
additional weight exceeds a marginal strip with the lighter variants
-most of the time. A quality crimper is the final step.
Just my $00.02 on quality tool investment.
Thanks for hitting it in, Tim.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wire Tool
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Marcus,
Microsoft products don't properly wrap link lines when you paste them
into mail. If you copy and paste the 2 sections in the link up into
the browser, it would work. Here, I'll do it for you with my
non-microsoft Mozilla Thunderbird that doesn't cause this issue...
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=7205&group
_ID=796&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
or
http://tinyurl.com/aoh2f should work too.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Marcus Cooper"
<coop85@bellsouth.net>
>
> John,
> Could you post the model number of the stripper you were
discussing. The
> link didn't work and they have a number of wire strippers that appear
to cut
> down to 22AWG.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 10:44 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wire Tool
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox"
<johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
>
>
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=7205&group
> _ID=796&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
>
> This was the stripper that most of the A&P students would pop for from
> Snap-on. The quality of build, the quality to stripped insulation,
the
> correct size cut on the insulation on the AWG scale and their
> replacement policy was a professional decision. Buy it once, buy it
for
> life.
>
> John - KUAO
>
> P.S. I have five different strippers in my toolbox and this one is
used
> for the quality work. It is a little heavy to hold on the 22AWG but
> gets in great in real tight locations anywhere (even in blind strip
> operations).
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean
Stephens
> Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 7:06 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wire Tool
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens <schmoboy@cox.net>
>
> Wow, that stripper (T-Stripper 45-121) is only $10 online!
>
> <http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/scripts/product/4440-0015>
>
> If it works as good as you say for $10, that's a steal!
>
> -Sean
>
> Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Thanks, I've been leaning towards that one, but just wanted to make
>
> sure
>
>>>it worked ok with Tefzel. I see on Dan C.'s Tool section of his site,
>
> he
>
>>>has the same I think.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>I do have the same one (the "automatic" stripper from Cleaveland) and
I
>
> *DO
>
>>NOT* use it on my aircraft wires. In my experience, it leaves notches
>
> in
>
>>the insulation which in some cases fully penetrated the insulation.
>>
>>The stripper I use is the Ideal T-Stripper 45-121. Totally manual. I
>>bought mine from Fry's if I remember correctly.
>>
>>http://www.idealindustries.co.uk/index.cfm?pid=14&op=dsp&pk=13878&fk=3
4
>
> 2
>
>>The "automatic" stripper is in the tool bin for non-critical stuff
>
> (jeez,
>
>>what's non-critical on your plane? in other words, I never use mine).
>
> The
>
>>last thing I want to see are breaks in my insulation. Your mileage
>>definitely may vary. I may have tried this on 22AWG and tossed it.
It
>
> may
>
>>acually work fine on larger gauge, or thicker insulation...or
>
> something.
>
>>Anyway, try it and see if you like it. You might, you might not.
>>
>>I believe you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to wire
>>strippers. The expensive ones are expensive because they WORK. I'm
>
> too
>
>>cheap to splurge on the nice stuff. If I made wire harnesses for a
>
> living
>
>>that would be a different story...
>>
>>)_( Dan
>>RV-7 N714D
>>http://www.rvproject.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: missing parts |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Thanks for the update... Did you get your finishing kit yet? I
think I remember there being some hinge pins in that box. I
wonder if you have to wait until you're mounting the cowling on before
you actually receive the pins. As for the SB625-7's, I know I
installed mine, but I can't tell you if I was short them in the
kit or not....I bought a pile of extras in various sizes and just
dipped into those since they were handy.
FYI: Skimming the packing list for the finshing kit....
2 AN257-P3x6' Hinge x6'
1 Hinge Piano 063x3' Leg Fairing Hinge All
1 Hinge Piano 063x6' 063 Piano Hinge
1 SSP-090x6' Stainless Steel Pin
1 SSP-120x6' stainless Steel Pin
I'm not at all sure that the hinge pins in the finish
kit would be the ones that go with the hinges you refer
to...I'm not that far yet.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
brian bollaert wrote:
> To the group & Tim O to add to the missing list:
>
> While working on the piano hing for the cowl this sat the attach shims
> that you are to make were not in the inv (41-7) also the replacement
> stainless steel pin material for the hinges was not in the inv, the pin
> material that comes with the hinges that are supplied is aluminum (and
> must be changed out ) a low tech way to tell (magnet)
> Also page 32-5 no bushings 2 called for sb625-7 ,had to rob some from
> the tailcone kit . keep in mind i have the QB fuse , not shure on the
> slow build ,
>
> Will be calling vans monday.
>
> As a sideline i like the idea of using the anywhere map and the traffic
> scope vrx and there xm weather
> http://www.anywheremap.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=36 much less
> costly than chelton weather etc and i like the idea of being able to
> take it out of the plane when i want , also you have battery backup
>
>
>
>
> Missing parts list GROWING
>
> Brian Bollaert
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: What I did with priming |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sounds very reasonable to me. I've often thought that maybe
I should have stopped at Alodine and skipped the primer. Alodine
has spectacular corrosion proofing properties in itself.
I've done the Alodine and prime path though.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
aeroads@comcast.net wrote:
> How's this I alumiprep soak, alodine soak the ribs, and all smaller
> parts and no primer on the alodined parts HS spar I could do in a
> plastic sheet lined box I've used the airbrush and been happy a
> bit slow but yeah no overspray thanks for the help I have built
> a basically wood amphibian but the aluminum is all new and all advice
> is greatly appreciated thanks Murray Randall
>
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein
> >
> > What I did in regards to priming is to Alodine all parts I could,
> then
> > spray with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer. I have worked on my own cars
> with
> > the "self etching" primers before and I am less than satisfied with
> > them. In my experience, even if you properly clean and scuff the
> > surface, the primer will eventually fail several years down the
> road.
> > I've learned from experience. Of course, my cars stay out in the
> weather
> > 24x7x365.... Your mileage may vary...
> >
> > My search for a zinc chromate epoxy primer was fruitless.. It seems
> > nobody sells it anymore (at least not in less than 30 Gal.
> barrels), so
> > I decided to Alodine to get the chromate. The company I work for
> makes
> portable blood gas analyzers (medical equipment) and we
> Alodine all our
> > aluminium chassis and I have seen how well it holds up even after
> 15 years.
> >
> > Why did I go with PPG DP50LF primer? That's an easy one... First, I
> > wanted an epoxy primer. I looked at AZKO, but it said "for
> interior use
> > only"... I wanted an Exterior quality primer, and again my
> experience on
> > my cars told me that the PPG epoxy primer holds up well. It is
> expensive
> > ($30/qt, + $30/pt catalyst + $40/gal thinner (you mix it 2:1:0.5
> > primer:catalyst:thinner:)) but after years on my cars it has held
> up well.
> >
> > One more tip: I was going through primer like it was going out of
> style,
> > even with a small touchup gun. I went to the hobby shop and bought a
> > good airbrush ($80) and now I can do parts one at a time, instead of
> > "batching" the paint jobs and it has so little overspray all you
> need is
> > a piece of newspaper behind what you spray. Even on the H.S. Spar it
> > works very well. I mixed 3oz (before spraying) and could prime
> the front
> > HS spar, the spar doubler, the spar caps, the attach brackets,
> and still
> > have about 1/2 oz. left over.
> >
> > -Jim 40384, just primed HS. Front spar parts....
> >
> > Dj Merrill wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill
> > >
> > > aeroads@comcast.net wrote:
> > >
> > >> Re Dj Merrill prime Just ready to order emp. kit and have been
> > >> agonizing over the etch alodyne prime issue did you simple clean
> > >> your parts and spray with the Sherwin Williams 988? and your are
> > >> satisfied? many thanks for the posting Murray Randall
> > >
> > >
> > > Yes, that's all I did, cleaned with denatured
> > > alcohol and sprayed with the
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Interior Painting / Andair Fuel Valve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Hi all,
I got started on my Andair fuel valve install this weekend. Only got
started and not finished because as it turns out, the valve that Wicks
sells is NOT the one you'd want to do the -10. Van's sells one with
1/4" NPT, but Wicks has 3/8" MALE flare. The fix is to send back the
Wicks valve and buy one from Van's, or spend over $55 for a 90 degree
swivel Banjo fitting for the Andair from Wicks. Don't know which way
it'll be yet though.
I did get started on the mounting for the Andair valve, using photos
from Bob Condrey and Vic Syracuse. I tried to take some good
preliminary ones until I get my new valve though, so feel free to
read about it in the fuselage section here:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/
Also, I did my interior painting today. My end result will be very
good, but the spraying was not without issue. I made a big mistake
early on in the cleaning process that I'm not happy with that caused
me to have plenty of lint trapped in the paint. Luckily for me it
was mainly on the floor panels where I'll put carpet anyway. I put some
tips from lessons learned the hard way on that same link, but in the
fuselage interior painting section.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 29
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1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
--> RV10-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
I wish I would've read this thread before dropping by on you this evening! Sorry,
but I just cracked up 'cuz I knew exactly what part you were cursing about!
But, alas, it's not for me to laugh. My kit is but a wheel chock in the hanger
- BUT THAT WILL CHANGE! Oh, one more thing - don't try to totally disassemble
a Chicago Pneumatic 214 Squeezer without talking to me first....
Bruce
Picking up the wing kit Tuesday! Now, I'll have enough chocks for 3 cars in the
hanger.
Message 30
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| Subject: | RV-10 Panel Rib modification |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Forgot to add a couple notes to my last email:
#1. I also did the modification to my left and right panel ribs, in
preparation for my Chelton system. See here for photos:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050610
And, Saturday a.m. I got a great visit from Gary Specketer and his wife.
Gary's an RV-10 builder and EAA Technical counselor who's built a few
other planes in the past. It was fantastic to have someone like him
come and look ove rmy work. I might be wrong, but I think the only
actual builder who's ever seen my plane is a buddy who's building
a -4, so it was great to get his stamp of approval on what I've done
so far. I didn't realize that the FAA looks positively at the fact
that you've had 3 visits from EAA Tech. counselors. In the short time
he was over, I got good advice on a few issues, and he found a couple
of rivets that Van's spec'd too short, and nuts that were spec'd too
thick, not allowing enough threads to show. If you haven't looked
into an EAA Technical counselor visit, I'd encourage a new builder to
probably meet one too look at your Vertical Stab just to ease
your mind, and then possibly inspect at the end of your empennage,
and end of the wings. Since this was my first visit out of at
least 3 that I should try for, I'll probably do one as a pre-signoff
inspection, and maybe one a the time I mate up my wings. It's a
great and valuable service these guys are performing.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Message 31
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| Subject: | Interior Painting / Andair Fuel Valve |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
You could also replace the fitting on the Andair valve, assuming it's
one of the side fittings. I got replacements from Andair for ~$12 each.
Greg
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I got started on my Andair fuel valve install this weekend.
> Only got started and not finished because as it turns out,
> the valve that Wicks sells is NOT the one you'd want to do
> the -10. Van's sells one with 1/4" NPT, but Wicks has 3/8"
> MALE flare. The fix is to send back the Wicks valve and buy
> one from Van's, or spend over $55 for a 90 degree swivel
> Banjo fitting for the Andair from Wicks. Don't know which
> way it'll be yet though.
>
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